#đ§âkeyboard_modding
1 messages · Page 162 of 1
It sounds like many people use the jades just fine with regular stabs
Oh, yeah I wasnât sure if they would work with regular stabs or not
You might need to update to beta firmware to use them properly, the modding_faq has a section on compatible switches
Yeah I'm using jades with tx ap rn
also stock stabs
one day we will get there, one day 
wait which TX AP stabs?
Way too hollow
also why? the stock ones are good enough.
Basically has no character to it besides the design
Sounds better with foam but you'll never get your spacebar to sound good
I mean I like skeletonized things but I don't like this
does show it's the bottom out or something with HE like he was saying as he put in the nixie build and then it was good 
and its light af
yeah that's so when you rage you can hit your monitor with it
tbh it probably would've been better to tune and balance the stock stabs, tx aps are going to sound exactly the same if not worse due to no factory lube. also some have had issues with plate mount TX AP not fitting.
1.2mm or 1.6mm stabs for the 60HE+?
yeah holy 60 is a no for both looks and sound for me đ
1.6mm
Thanks!
Oh I have sound test for you 
what sound test? 
I lubed my top housing on jades as noticed even on them they had that slight HE rattle
This is sex tho
rattle gone 
Funny I was gonna get that Fuck Off Keycap
Now I feel like I still should
Think dbrand made em right?
ayeeee now sound test where
I'll just lube them myself, no biggie

yummy sounds
a little bit of ping tho
stock case too #đ§âkeyboard_modding message
Yeah
Salvation with HE just pings for some reason
Jades sound rlly good
Sounds good but sounds like what I imagine extra lubed to Jades to sound, which is like wet dominoes lol
too bad gateron is greedy đ
ye pretty much accurate 
yeah the price pretty not it
Makes me want to try top housing on raptors too
You using no foam?
that was silicone pad iirc
oh imma buy some of that real quick
yez
Yeah it's the weirdest thing to have ping, and then I put in my bsun build and ping begone
I liked 1 layer of masking and 1 layer of moleskin tape for tape mod
mainly cuz taking off 1 layer of moleskin tape is a pain
so I put it on top of masking
makes sense
Yeah it has a stronger adhesive, not strong enough to damage PCB, at least I didn't lol but you can do what Pochizo said or cut your own screw holes like I did then you never have to remove it
I've never done the tape mod to this day, but might try it as why not
and it doesn't leave a residue
but yeah its hard to take off the first 2-3 times
then the adhesive weakens a bit and its easier
what stabs do u guys use for your jades? I just put them in and I can kinda feel the imbalance. Wondering where i can buy new stabs and which ones to use
stock ones and tx ap
no issues with either
but if you want absolute compatibility buy the TX AP Long Pole
do u use the 1.2T or 1.6T option?
@polar girder when do you receive your small o-ring? Iâm thinking of maybe getting it if it works out for you
which tape was it you said? iâm thinking of doing two different tapes, first layer being painters tape and other layer being something else
itâs called mole tape?
Moleskin but you can use other thick tape too.
If youâre doing the first layer with painters tape that is. You donât want very sticky tape on your PCB.
i'm probably going to tape mod my pcb after i get around to lubing my switches
Depends on your stabs.
Default wooting stabs
on the wires you can go crazy
yeah, thatâs what iâve heard. so iâm planning on doing painters tape first layer but im unsure what the other layers should be, whatâs ur take on it? what should i do for the other layers?
probably moleskin
They come prelubed but if you want to relubed then a light coat on the stab stem and thicker around the wire.
The stem is the + part that sticks out right? Or like the part that is inside the other part? Sorry Iâm new to modding
Honestly just doing multiple layers of painterâs tape is great. I donât know how one layer of painterâs tape and moleskin compare to three layers of painterâs tape.
Yes, the â+â part that sticks out.
Again, Wootingâs stabilizers come prelubed so youâre not required to relube them at all.
I overlubed them so I had to clean the lube off
ah i see, yeah i might just go for the painters tape then
There is no lube on them at the moment
You can always try one layer, then two and then three. See what you like most. đ
that is also trueđ
yes yes appreciate the help aligner
Did you balance the wires? That can help the sound and feel quite a bit.
Enjoy the content? Support me with a sub! https://shorturl.at/abuC8
Links to tools found in the video:
https://ktechs.store/products/tx-stabilizers
https://ktechs.store/products/geon-twister
https://ktechs.store/products/mechanical-keyboard-lubricants?variant=43576503075046
https://ktechs.store/products/premium-flathead-brush
https://ktechs.sto...
Not home rn but Iâll have to take a look
Bent/unbalanced wires can cause the stabs to tick.
All good, Iâd recommend checking if your wires are balanced before lubing. đ
Alright Iâll be sure to, thanks!
Theyâre great to have when you need them. Timesavers too.
Never modded a keyboard before, what is the best mods to improve the sound of the HE?
I juts finished modding mine
immediately i recommended tuning and lubing the stock stabs, maybe im just unlucky but mine were pretty wobbly
I swapped to hand lubed jades, tempest mod, and switch pads
And i definitely over lubed the right shift... but other than that I feel accomplished
As for the overlubed shift, you think with time it will thin out and settle? Or would it be necesarry to go clean it out.
For a first time i dont think its bad
check the modding faq for some basic mods first
has a good list
but usually just recommend lubing swtiches, maybe tape mod
depends how much you've added
if its just slightly, it will thin out over time
okay i think ill be okay then
if too much and it's affecting ur usage, i recomeend cleaning it out a little
its not mushy or anything, just feels maybe a little slower than the other keys coming up
yea it will "break in" as u type alot
well that makes me feel better
Ok thanks!
u can also get different switches since most of the modders here don't like the lekkers
these are also mentioned in the faq
the gateron jade is awesome
Has anyone here gotten TX AP Long Poles with Jades to work on a german ISO-DE 60he+ module? I cannot possibly get them to not be scratchy/slow no matter what I do
and its not just slight scratchyness or slowness theyre borderline unuseable
Stock stabs work perfectly fine
Things I've tried :
-Adjust screw in force
-Try unlubed/lubed
-Try with/without PC top plate on (more to this after the list)
-Different keycaps
-Different switch but of the same sort (Gateron magnetic jade)
With the top plate on the scratchyness/slowness becomes 100x worse. Another thing I noticed is that compared to the stock stabs the top plate has a much more tighter fit when the tx ap stabs are on the pcb, it takes quite some force to get it around all of them. I wouldnt say enough force to be squeezing the stabilizer housing causing friction though.
no ones replied in other channels any help with the remapping software, i cant find the at sign to remap it to a key and its not on my shift 2
Wootingâs plate is too tight for TXâs AP stabilizers. You can force them through and they will work perfectly fine for some and wonât function well or at all for others. You can either continue to using the stock stabilizers that came with the module or enlarge the stabilizer holes on the plate with a hobby knife.
I guess I'll try making the holes a bit larger
I've had that idea but it was gonna be a last resort typa thing
That might be a windows issue. You canât remap Shift + characters I donât think.
Yeah, as it should be. Cutting polycarbonate with a hobby knife can be very tricky.
Thereâs no other option if you wish to use your TX stabilizers sadly.
I feel just scraping the holes bigger with the knife should also work
Yeah makes sense. Nice to know I'm not the only one who has experienced this issue before though
Maybe, or sanding it.
yep
Me. đ
and a few others.
By the way, if you use stock keycaps you donât need to use long pole stabs with your jades. Jades work fine with normal stabs.
I use dye sub keycaps but they also work perfectly fine with stock stabs. It's just that since I purchased the tx ap ones I'd prefer using them lmao
Also heard theyre somewhat better
it has been 2 weeks since i ordered the jade switches where is it đ
Those stabs are known to cause issues for some people. The stab housings are too close to max tolerance levels.
Pick any other brand with the exception of maybe staebies and they will work fine.
Which clip-in stabs would you all recommend for the 60he+ module, for a gummy o-ring mount?
I've only used screw in stabs to date
Can someone help me, i got my wooting 60 he + module and I donât know where to place the foam
There is no yt video or something where it is explained, how to layer the different parts
What foam? Photo please.
This
That is an optional alternative to the preinstalled pad that the module already has installed (made from silicone)
To swap it, you'll have to screw the PC plate and PCB from each other, swap the pads, and screw it back together.
Just part of the packaging.
https://help.wooting.io/article/177-putting-your-60he-module-together
This little guide I wrote might help answer most questions. đ
So you finally have your awesome new 60HE Module, but you're not entirely sure how to put it all together? Let's get started! What's in the box Opening the box
Mansen youâre not purple anymore 
gg
Those - are in their down position.
They're only supposed to move up and down when attached to a keycap.
Yes but they are not moving
Grab one and pull it upwards.
Does it go back down by itself, and does the other one follow it?
Hard to recommend any at the moment. The PC plate is too tight for TXâs AP stabilizers which causes them to bend the plate and makes them unusable for some. If you donât mind enlarging the plateâs stabilizer holes then those will do.
When I put a keycap on it itâs stuck somehow
MANSEN WHY ARENT YOU PURPLE
đ
Those are the stock stabs right?
oh mb my brain skipped over that part ig lol
Thanks for this. What about Cherry? Same issue?
Cherryâs clip ins would fit perfectly fine but I donât think reviews were great for those.
Tendency to rattle in the PCB
iirc
I appreciate the input!
i just ordered the two he can somebody point me in the direction of some keycaps? i'm planning on starting to mod keyboards when i get it
what are you looking for?
i feel like a pro: just mounted my module into my alumaze but forgot the foam....
oh yeah i should have definitely checked out this before starting lmao thanks
i'm not too sure yet because i'm new to modding. i was looking at these but not sure what other options there really is
is there room to use both poly fill and case foam ?
or do you have to do one or the other?
I have wooting foam+Tofu foam+ polyfill 
was that your fav combo?
I don't have anything just mounted the keyboard as I needed it for work
Some prefer no foam
anything with a cherry or cross stem (which is most keycaps) is compatible
@wet hazelis the tofu foam the super thin one with a bunch of cutouts/holes?
yes
its not supposed to be case foam, they call it a liner
so that is supposed to be on the bottom of the pcb?
cherry clip ins are great
I need to order some again, only have one set left
the foam that comes with the tofu goes into the bottom of the case
the plate foam goes inbetween the plate and PCB
@agile grovewhy is it so much thinner than the one that wooting gives you?
so like where the silicone pad is?
top is between plate and pcb
bottom is between bottom case and pcb
(these are only exemplary not for the wooting)
because like I said, its just a liner. I personally didnt design the tofu redux so I cant really answer that question
.
@grave quail maybe give Cherry clip ins a shot?
okay thank you!
probably needs some balancing and tuning
I meant Cherryâs mounting here. I read something like that.
All stabs need tuning, itâs very rare to get one perfect out of the box. đ
true
oh this is kbd fans foam
so its a replacement for this?
no this one is for the swithces I think
I would just use the one that came w/ board
so i understand that one goes between the plate and the PCB
im trying to figure out where the one that came with the KBDfans foam is supposed to go
That doesn't look 60HE compatible at all.
im assuming its meant to go in-between the plate and the pcb as well, but it certainly is not 60he compatible
Gotcha, thanks for the infos
Seems about right no?

Or am I blind?
It does align with the board
Maybe Iâm trippin
This goes between plate foam and PCB
It got the space bar rgb cut outs too
Came with the carbon fiber plate
it works
would i install that with the plate silicone/foam?
gotcha, the extra distance doesnt cause any issues?
chicanery.
You can use the plate foam on top of it I presume?
you can
kk gotcha thanks. so Carbonfiber Plate -> Platefoam-> KBDfans foam -> PCB
I kinda want a sheet, I didnât know it was included.
Yessir
If you have any issues please keep us posted
Also wouldnât mind a pic of it on the PCB to see how it lines up
What stabs you have?
the ones that came with the module
what do you mean by tune?
Make sure wires arenât bent
what about the switch tape mod? do i need to clean the top housing before i apply the tape? worth doing?
Whatâs switches you have?
or shouldi wait for the KS-20U switch you guys were talking about
lekkers
lekker-60
do people clean the housing of lube before applying the tape?
it'll slip off once the wire moves
aight. imma see what you guys say about the KS-20U when they are released. will just grease and lube for now
i use a brush soaked in alcohol to clean them
Theyâre on mechkeys already.
@thick mural was it worth it for you? notice a significant difference?
whats the general concensus?
yeah, the factory lube can be bad depending on shipping
dont think anyone has gotten their hands on them yet
Nobody has them yet, soon though.
I get mine today
for me, i over lube slightly and then let it wear in
ends up sounding better
try not to overlube the bottoms of the housing tho
otherwise it'll make the stem stick
kk
same
im still rocking raptors
so its like $70 for 70?
Ima find your courier truck and swap yours out
I also got the tx ap screw in
So Iâll test those as well
haha, I wont be home until Monday to get them anyway.
Aw damn
cam that means you can steal them easier
If he waits until Tuesday he can steal my Boog75 too. However we dont have mailboxes in my neighborhood, just locked postal boxes at the end of the road.
Just take an angle grinder to the back of it
Hey everyone i wanted to do a burger mount on the 60he+ do you guys have any advice ?
It's my first ever custom kb
Also for a thockier sound which foam should i use ? I have a tofu 60 redux
Wooting stock foam or tofu foam is fine
Not much advice besides just follow the guides that show how to do it and donât overtighten screws
Wooting has a guide on their YouTube as well BadSeedTech
Oh perfect thanks mate
I have a couple other questions if you mind
I bought jades switches do i need to lube them or they are good as it is
Theyâre alright as is but if you want to mute their upstoke a bit you should lube them, where the stem impacts the top housing to be more specific.
You mean the bottom housing?
Personal preference, Iâve left mine as is for a couple weeks now
Probably will hand lube at some point
But factory lube on my batch was consistent
when im bored i lube
I did the same as you but i bag lubed the springs
Oh ok thanks, guess ill leave them as is for now then
I bag lube as well with SuperLube Oil
And has anyone ever tried the "holee mod" for stabs ?
Is it good or the basic stabs lubing is enough
No.
Depends on your stabs.
Not really needed unless your stabs are ticking but a good lube and tune job can fix that @dire vale
Ill keep the original stabs included for now
Yeah theyâre fine
Tune job?
Yeah just balancing wires and such
Oh ok
Here is how I mod my stabilizers. I get asked this a lot of my streams and honestly, I figured why not just record this so I can link this video instead of having to re-explain it every time. I hope you enjoy it. Please remember this video is only covering lubing and installing, some stabs like cherry clip-ins, you'll need to clip the bottom leg...
And basic painter masking tape is good or do i need the blue one ? Like everyone else use ?
Thanks !
Any painters masking tape will do
Ok great well lets get to work then thanks everyone
Can I do burger mount even on the smaller holes that are in the foam? It's my first time, don't really know if I'm doing it correctly, and the screws should still go from the back of the pcb like it was when I unscrewed them right?
Like this part doesn't have that bigger cut out like others
So that hole and ones of similar size aswell as the straight line cutouts are for the switch plate
They align with the switch plate
can I burger mount them too?
no, they arent for screws
No
the holes with a metal circle around them are for the screws
Hey guys, Iâm getting my 60he module today and was wonderingâfor the Tofu 60 redux, do I install the module in the case with the screws Tofu provided or the ones Wooting provided?
either or
should be pretty much the same
Ok thanks!
I added this on the screw
those arent for burger mount and they dont go on the screws. they go on the standoffs.
Thatâs technically fine, these are adhesive foam and silicone o rings for the case standoffs
ohhh
They either go on top of the case standoffs or on the bottom of the PCB
They have a sticky adhesive side
You want to align them with the screw holes for the case where the PCB will sit
wait a min, i also thought they were for burger mount so i returned my silicon o rings
Itâs the same concept as burger mount pretty much just different design and procedure
ok so its like a pancake mount
You could technically do both
gotcha i see what you mean
by same concept
right then ill continue with the project and use these
Where should I place those little o rings?
I'm sorry, but I really don't understand where these things should go
^^^^
the case standoffs or the bottom of the pcb where it meets the standoffs
if I add on the standoffs can/need to add on the pcb as well?
On either, not both.
Okay, ty!
You might have trouble screwing it in, if you double stack.
how do I install the switches i'm scared of breaking the pcb or something, should I support it from the back
just push the down untill they click
thats about it
okay
ever played with legos? yeah just do that lol
and the window part up, as it shows in the picture
yup
@harsh dove đ„Ž
@bronze grove would you know what term to use when search the replacement for those rings
.
Same date for me
only true low profile wooting is naked one
tried ali flat case and its kinda tall still
just foam and pcb work and sound surprisingly well
My KS20u are out for delivery now tho
Nice 
Nice. Did you get expedited? That was pretty quick
we pray that they will be the best sounding switches so far (they won't be) and HE shall be saved
standard delivery time from mechkeys according to their website
Nice, mine were delivered Wednesday, but cant test them yet since im still on a trip :/
I think so I canât remember tho, Iâll check
Mightâve been only one delivery option tbh
Is this symbol alt?
yes
this is windows button right?
Wooting button
yes, it is by default
But yeah đ
:D
if you are using a symbols kit and have function on the most right key then it should be like this
yo ty so much!
its a bit confusing, cause usually the bottom right 2 are swapped around
but to make it easier to use with layers wooting by default puts FN on the most right one
is that your keyboard?
yeah, those are mine
Nice, one question, did you use the tofu60 foam or the wooting one?
i just used the tofu foam, i didnt test the wooting foam, but with the tofu foam the fitment was perfect so i just kept that
yeah I'm thinking the same :D
the wooting foam is a bit thicker, it could work. but it would just become a little bit compressed i guess
I'd recommend the wooting foam for sound, if you got the 60he then make make sure you only use the top part, if you have the module then the foam it comes with is fine stock.
my desire to match wants these to be switched
works well and wish we could get a slightly thinner version of it tbh
in cases not the plastic one just pushes the assembly up and defeats points of aftermarket case
Ye
I'm fine with foam till you put it in case and then it just pushes the assembly up, and makes it look like low profile keyboard
drives me nuts
like this
or this
Hey guys are these included with the module for burger mounting ?
Hey, I got tofu60 redux with wooting module, i'm trying both of the foams and man it's hard to decide, there is a difference but It's hard to pick, if going for thocky sound which one would you pick?
Also found additionnal screws, they seem a bit longer
yeah
for thocky I'd recommend polyfill, but between the two foams I'd recommend the wooting one
false
are those not for putting on the standoffs
What is it for?
yes exactly, but thats not burger mount
same concept essentially
you put them on the standoffs or where the PCB meets the standoffs
Not on the stabs screw only on other screws right ?
And for a thockier sound which pad should i use thé foam one or the silicone one ?
the foam switch pad
Thanks
no not on the stab screws, only where the pcb meets the case standoofs
Thanks !
ngl i just tested both the thin foam line and the foam from wooting and i felt like there was almost no difference in sound
the wooting foam might make it a tad bit deeper
this look like polyfill to yall?
What is this for?
should I add them?
up to you tbh, i just kinda put them on there, idk if it affects anything i know some people just throw them away and have no problem without them so
Do I need to use the brass ones?
if you want more contacnt points
sure
if not no
try it with and witthout and see what you prefer
does it make any differance in sound?
yeah
more contact points so it will reverbate more where it touches and screwed in
preference if you like it or not
yo how much polyfill should i use
So I use one in the middle and in the right bottom side?
Just a bit. A thin cloud that doesnt stick up above the case
?
smth like thisv
sorry just realized how hard that is to see lmao
Yep
more
fr?
i dont think they are that expensive right
idk i feel like if i put that much its just gonna cover up the standoffs for the screws
I need to read a book lmao
@harsh dove Yo, you get your switches in yet?
just space them away from the standoff
Yeah
Not home tho
oh shi congrats just noticed 
About a week
Sweet!
Ahh okay. Not bad. Where does it ship from?
China
@fluid ravine this better ?

I love the torn open pillow
plus i cant see đ
That's a lot more polyfill that what I put in my caseđ
lmao it does look alot
Thank you btw
dude i was taking a gamble
Weight-wise is not a lot, that's light as f
nah its not
if it is it would be raised point to narnia
I though that was hair the other day and nope, another strand of polyfill escaped
LMAO
Yanno I was looking at this recently on mine and I imagine thatâs how they came up with the design tbh
I can tape mod wooting pcb right?
how much does your pcb sit elevated with this much polyfill 
just curious
yes
is tape mod worth
idk if I wanna pull this kb out again after fitting it with oring
lol
I stuffed it full of MLV but might wantw to swap to some sorbothane
anyone know of a good screw driver set specifically for keebs?
My first keyboard build:))
cant go wrong
I have a set like this as well that works quite well
since its extendable for smaller/harder to reach places sometimes
yeah that one is a bit thicker though
lmao
haven't always had luck with that one
shark you hear my jades stuff i did for the top housing
but htbis is in very rare scenarios tbh
oh no I don't think so
lemme try to find that in a sec
looks sick, i have a similar looking build
yeah just search from me audio 
youll see one for salvationa nd stock case
yeah i saw this one but i was a little skeptical about the extended bits since iâll really only be using it for my keyboard
oh sick ty
I have htis one as well, good stuff
the only downside I ever really had was it was sometimes too big to take apart my GPW
lmao
We've got a pulse on how electronics are Held together. Armed with the data from hundreds of teardowns and thousands of repair guides, our teardown technicians were able to curate the most capable compact toolkit. The new Pro tech toolkit is the one thing every DIYer, fixer, hacker, Hobbyist, and...
I have this one personally
But didnât wanna recommend a $75 kit
For just keyboards
yeah, i saw a geon collab tho, i kinda like how it comes with a small compact case,
geon one also nice
If you do other stuff then you can go for a larger more expensive kit
But for keebs Iâd like at around $30
Kits
this is nearly the exact one I have
mine is a good 7-8 years old though
but theon e I had had a lifetime wraranty on it as well
and I've had it swapped out a couple times now
mostlyu just swap bits for wearing down over time
ngl i just got a like 20 buck ifixit kit and it works great
Yeah iFixIt is lifetime as well
sweet
thatâs true, i donât really have use for a screw driver, other than for taking my keeb apart,
actually the 15 dollar one
Yeah the minnow kit
do I need to take about the m60+ module at all to install the switches?
so i think imma go with the geon one, looks super compact
man salvation sounds pretty good actually
maybe I should have bought that one for 150 LOL
tool-box screwdriver-set tool-bag console replace smartphone upgrade tablet tech high-quality adapter aluminium ps4 xbox mobile-phone macbook apple gadgets computer watch imac mac battery display ifixit precision glasses electronics screen diy controller torx case magnetic bit-holder star small p...
Hereâs the minnow kit
Fits in your pocket
ouuu nice
super convenient
damn still a tough decision, thanks for the recomendations but i think iâll meet it in the middle with the geon one, it has 23 bits and still seems a bit compact so i think itâll get the job done well!
But yeah no more rattle top housing sound
Are you going to get anything else from geon?
Shipping is $28 minimum usually
I lubed my jades as well but sound didnt really change much
didnt really notice any rattle
I might go back do do the top housings since I skipped those the first time though
does sound like it makes it sound better
go light if you do of course
But it's not something that's hugely noticeable unless you go back to mx boards every day like me 
yeah I havent used my mx boards in a while
I am too lazy to swap back and forth tbh
wooting def doesnt feel as good but with jades its much better
more usabele
Yeah my work desk has my mx boards for sound and feel
and then gaming desk/personal pc is 60he
so i notice all the rattle/loose/upstroke etc with HE stuff immediately until I lubed the top housing at least
now they are just very quiet and such
Same, and I used to have that setup but gave myself extra space for my work stuff now haha
been nice
Itâs nice to have things separated for mental clarity
When you walk into the office you know itâs time to work, when you walk into the game room you know itâs time to relax
Itâs like imagine having your office in your bedroom
Anyone available to help me make sure I set up my Wooting correctly?
With the tofu 60 redux
Iâm new to this stuff and have anxiety lmao
jeez 28 for shipping, hmm. i might, any reccomendations on things i should pick up just to have around for when needed? its my first time building a keeb so really any other needed tools i may need in the future would be nice to know about
So i start with the foam like this correct?
Yeah he's in korea so it's dhl express only
ohh i see.
Yes
Below the switch plate
got any reccomendations for other tools i may need?
well
@harsh dove so do i put this in first or that foam piece first
if you still really want the tool kit from him that bad
Do case foam first
maybe the stab adjusters
So by default, this has the silicone layer between it
can i dm u so i donât flood chat?
and they're sold out nvm
That foam layer is the other option you can use instead of the silicone @rough wagon
yeah i saw someone talk about em and saw they were sold out a couple days ago
Nah itâs fine here, helps other people too if they have similar questions
blame me
i bought them with my addtional plate for my f1-8x
probablyh was me that sold it out 
Yep
ok now what
And someone will tell you to flip the foam so the usb cutout is lined up but it really doesnât matter tbh
So now if you want, you can take apart the module and swap out the silicone layer in between for the foam layer you showed a minute ago
Or leave the module as is and put your switches in
ima just keep it how it is!
Yeah thatâs fine
i think they did a good job with the module as is
ok so now just screw in the module and put the switches?
Correct
the right side of this foams needs to be on the left side
Need is a strong word
Yeah it lines up with the usb that way
cut out for the usb port right?
I have mine swapped around in the âwrongâ direction
Even badseedtech does it lol
In his modding video
cams got delivered today
now just screw in? @harsh dove
Yessir
yuhhh
Only gonna need 4 screws since we didnât have you use any standoffs @rough wagon
Two on each side
gold ones are the standoffs
Those are standoffs and they are optional
Donât need to use them
(Brass ones)
if i did use them where would the go and why?
case
LMAO
If you take the foam and module back out youâll see screw holes that donât come up like the rest in the middle and near the spacebar
Again, optional mounting points
Not needed if you donât want too
ohhh ok
ok so the 4 screws go into the 2 holes and iâm assuming to the left and right of the holes
ty!
No problem
im stupid didnt even see this
I told you someone will
Yes
are you planning on testing out the new switches tn when you get home?
is there a specific way to do this or do i just shove them in lmao iâm paranoid
i know the orientation just wanna be sure i force them in
yeah'
Donât be too rough but they should have an audible click
Yeah it takes a little bit of force
do u push from the top?
they are def a little tough to get in lol
Especially the first time
If you ever take switches out, itâs much easier if you unscrew the PCB from the switch plate and then remove the switches
đ€ the new switches are good
I think ill be buying a GMK set this month at some point
Any idea which set?
i just noticed thereâs a screw hole in the middle, do i screw in there too for 5 screws?? @harsh dove
Not used on the 60HE.
No, thatâs one of the optional locations I mentioned for the brass standoffs
Not needed unless wanted
mansen said its not used so iâm leave it
Yep yep
currently either gmk lavenders or tuzis
also trying to decide if id like a full purple set or not
Ah okay nice
I never really done any serious mods on a keyboard before but I gotta say the stock 60HE with Jade switches sound incredible
just all stock case and everything just jades?
ok ok, nice.
the l45s sounds so crisp and nice
The woble on the lekkers are just too much for me
the newer lekkers arent as bad, but still more wobly then the jades
I only tried the Lekker 60 switches
ive got the old Lekker60's and te revamped Lekker45's and the jades
jades are best thats what im using in main board, then second board ive got the new lekker45's, which are still much better then the old 60 imo
But switching the switches with Gateron switch puller v2 made it a piece of cake.
I was too scared to take the whole board apart like Wooting suggests on their youtube
yeah i get that, if youre new to modding doing something like that can be kinda scary
Did not even know they did a rework of the L45s
i didnt really take my 60HE apart until i got the module, but that was also because 1 of the screw was stripped
Are they much better than the old version?
not like a V2, but just small updates on the tolerances and them being better lubed then at first
Raptor HEâs or Jades?
jades
Jades are considered much better by the masses
Less stem woble, better sound, and same magnet as the lekkers, the raptor magnets are stronger so its a bit tricky adjusting thing in wootility
only thing is that Jades are only 3.5mm travel compared to lekker and raptors 4.0mm, which you might not like, personally i do
Word Iâve been using the Raptors for months but if Jades are objectively better I think Iâm going to order some
And jades are made from Gateron so same company as the switches the stock comes with
with the jades are they prelubed and if so, is it the same prelube as the stock lekker ones with wooting or is it a bit better?
they are the best pre lubed HE switches
im just using stock jades and theyre great
awesome as much as i like the sound after i lubed the stock switches they arent 100% the sound i want
HE offcourse wont get you the same sound that normal switches would, but you can definetly get a better sound with mods
Just wait unless youâre going for that specific Jade sound
You looking for click or thock sound?
@harsh dove i just woke up from my nap, imma start working on mine. im next in line for help LOL
thock
XD
Jades are very very thocky
wait, youre woothelp now cam? since when. or were you already and am i dumb
I have completly stock 60HE with ONLY jades and it is the thockiest keyboard I have tried
awesome, guess im picking some up on payday lol
i have the alumaze and some white keycaps coming on monday
You need a Beta version of Wootility if you want the Jades new length to not become a problem
If I am not mistaken
are they longer/ shorter so the acuation distance wont be accurate or something?
Because Lekker is 4mm in lenght and jades are 3.5
ah
But after an update of Wootility it works perfect again
im just using old version and it still works aswell, but since the travel distance is shorter it doesnt say that in wootility
It still says 4mm for me as well but going down to 0.5 actuation still is 0.5mm actuation on the switches
its pretty much that if you set your travel to 4mm in wootility it activates at 3.5 because that is the bottom out still
so with my dks would i just havwe to adjust my a uation points down .5mm or it would work fine how it is
ive got the jades and my windows key is set to 4mm for actuation, but i still hit it even tho i cant go under 3.5
Wait for what? đ
well, there might be lekker V2 soon, but nothing official yet
They should let you adjust yourself how long your switch is in Wootility
Would make it easier to understand
true, but you should pretty much just see it as a percentage kinda, so 4mm in wootility is 100%, so 3.5 on jades is 100%,
that makes more sense
If I have a stock 60HE with ONLY Jades as my mod then what would be an easy and cheap mod that could make my board sound even more thocky?
Gotcha well the Jades are on Amazon so I can just give them a shot and return them if anything
wait what, didnt know those were on amazon
Can't find them on German Amazon tho
maybe US, cause i cant find on NL amazon either
oh yeah, guess they are on US site
Yeah this is Amazon US
I had an evolution
Like a Pokémon
damn, wheres my evolution đ
I got them from Gaterons own website. They gave me some test switches and a free t-shirt because I asked in the order description lmao
yeah i got them there aswell, didnt ask for a tshirt tho haha
anyone try shrink wrap on their stablizers?
seems like a better idea than plumbers or holee mod
Funny how it says custom spring too like they canât tell us what it is
Just like their black inks housing material
iiiiiiits custoooooooooom
Donât wanna tell us
isa secret
Maybe it is patented?
well, you cant copy it if you dont know what it is...soooo
cause i dont think they can patent switch materials
maybe, but idk
so any thoughts on the shrink wrap?
toughts, sounds like a bad idea. but who knows, im an idiot, so probably shouldnt listen to me
thanks man, i really appreciate that useless input
@old swallowthoughts on why you think it might be a bad idea?
đ youre welcome
ok then .. XD
LOL
.....
i was thinking the holee mod might be a bad idea
thats fair
only 1 way to find out
i dont see too many videos on it
i see one 40 min video claiming it to be better than the plumbers mod
Anyone tried the kinetic sand mod?
dont
that seems like a bad idea
but who knows, im an idiot, so probably shouldnt listen to me
hey, thats my thing
Lmao xD
Iâm not sure if this is the right place to ask but I accidentally scratch the board while taking off the screws. Will this do damage to the board?
well, if its scratched its technically damaged, but you would just have to check if it will still work without issues, hard to tell this way
If the scratch is over a used PCB solder lane then yes
If the scratch is on a solder lane that is not in use then you are Gucci
But best way to figure it out is like how Strukeduker said. Test it
hey you actually spelled it correct, since people kept misspelling it anyways i decided to make it even more difficult with the letters haha
Lmao a lot of German places have something that sounds similar-ish to your name so it was not too hard to read
hmmm, being from the NL i am kinda intrigued in what places sound simmilar
NL? Netherlands?
yeah
I am Danish so even though we use a Scandinavian language, our neighbors are either also Scandinavian or Germanic
So I can kinda tell the difference between German and Dutch (Afrikaans too to an extent)
its not actually dutch, its frisian.which is even more simmilar to german then dutch is tbh
Southern Danish Dialect is a mix of Danish, German and Frisian. (Nobody understands Southern Danes lmao)
Iâm not very knowledgeable about keyboards in general but what should I look out for?
well, just test it and see if the keys all activate still
You see those small lines on the Board? Those are solder lanes and transmit power and info
If they are scratched then they are damaged. But not every lane is in use
Best way to figure out if everything works is to rebuild the board and check if everything works that way
So rgb and key response?
yeah, pretty much
It could be whatever
It a scratch happens near the USB C connecter then maybe no power at all. If a scatch is near only buttons then maybe only RGB and button function
Depends on where the damage is and what is connected to that lane
Lanes are like wires built inside the PCB itself
Probably but if the scratch hasn't removed the connection between the solder then it may work just fine
Someone told me I should try tape modding a 2he and Iâm not even sure if it works
i would just test it, if it works then dont worry about it, if you have issues then i would come back here and ask for more help
Alright
cause now youre worried about something that might not be an issue at all, but you wont know till you do
This is a PCB board without the black coat on it
The long lanes you see are connectors and they work just like a wire (info, data, power, everything)
Only when the whole wire is broken is when it is broken, a small scratch could mean it still works fine.
But like Strukeduker said. Test it before you worry about it because on my old GTX 1070 Graphics card I scratched the PCB and it worked fine for many years
"the long wires you see are connectors and they work just like a wire " aah yes, the floor here is made out fo floor
hehe
haha fair
That scratch isn't an issue
maybe even "physical wire" would work idk I ain't native english lmao
Most PCBs have a protective coating over the traces and that scratch doesn't appear to be very deep. I think you'll be fine
Exactly what I was thinking
yeah, no need to worry until you know it doesnt work
I also worried too much when ordering Jades because I thought I needed to buy new stabs and lube for the stabs etc etc lmao
aah yeah, the old you need new stabs for jades. someone said that and then everyone who ordered them asked if you needed new stabs
But I learned I only needed those if I wanted to use some types of different keycaps
i was convinced by cam to get jades, i was just asking questions about it and saw his sound test, so that was all the convincing i needed
Only a few types of keycaps actually require you to change to a 1.6mm long pole stab
yeah, but it just started the whole rumour that it couldnt be used normally
I thought soo too
Glad I just got the Jades and did not waste a bunch of extra money and time
yeah, i was tempted to get the raptors before the jades came out, but i was holding on for a bit since i already had lekkers on order to go in my new build, but then jades released and i have a set of lekkers sitting in a box
Are the Raptors any good? I may get the 80HE and want different switches than the Jades I have in my 60HE
yeah, they arent bad i believe, less stem woble then the lekkers, and sound pretty good i think, but stronger magnet so you gotta configure it differently in wootility
Are the Dual Rails good?
next cam sound test coming to a keyboard modding channel near you soon
I thought it was like a little older picture lmao
Nah lol I just got home
Lmao aight
make sure to give feedback to the wooting team to see if its a good upgrade for the lekker V2's
Wont the red housing defuse some of the light tho?
tbf, they probably got some there or on order aswell
Wooting is ahead of the game, thatâs all I can say
yeah, it does somewhat, i think someone posted a video of the RGB with the red housing
maybe cam, dont remember who it was
oooohh
i know that jeroen was teasing new lekkers on the wooting live today, but nothing official
i was thinking on getting some for the board where i just use the red RGB effect only anyways, but i dont need another set of switches just sitting there
Gonna take all these apart and examine housing and what not and see how the factory lube is
lol from what you see was it worth it
Itâs always worth it for me
i would like to see 3.5mm with closed bottom for new lekkers, but idk if wooting want to go for the shorter travel distance
lol all those switches you got for the he
the wootwhale himself
doing work
I LOVE the 60HE with 3.5 travel
cam, do you just have a cabinet full of switch containers?
are they less wobbly as speculated?
Probably a basement full
No, but I have a closet
Actually two closets and two sheds
Tbf
damn, didnt know you were gay.... oh you mean full of switches
The Jades have very little woble, no clue about the dual-rails tho
yep, i dont care too much about sound tbh, im usually gaming with headphones anyways, but they just feel nice to use
I also use headset 95% of the time but when I do homework I have no headset on so I think the sound is a plus


