#š§ākeyboard_modding
1 messages Ā· Page 156 of 1
Does this ever gonna get Nordic layout?
No plans for right now.
ooh i misread nordic just iso
Nordic just isn't big enough of a market to justify these special keycaps. Very expensive initial investment.
I feel your pain - Dane here š
I... think so?
will ask next livestream
no
take control looks so good
may I ask why Alumaze60 concrete gray is 10 euros more than other options?
and Is there some video where can I hear difference between alumaze and with and without PC Switch Plate Kit
It's because it uses a different manufacturing method for the finish, which is more complex and thus a bit pricier. š
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjIHyIxfUwA
I don't think we have a video specifically of the alumaze and PC plate kit, but we do have one for the stock case.
Some, who customized their Wooting 60HE, stumbled upon one part that they didn't like and wished they could change. And that part was usually the Steel plate. Steel is known to produce high-frequency sounds in the keyboard space, and that's why plenty of people tend to lean towards a polycarbonate plate. Let's hear what a difference it all makes...
thank you very much
This might sound stupid but is there difference between white and black PC Switch Plate Kit? š
Only the colour š
š thought so
I am ready guys š (gmk modo2 keycaps not in photo)
nice thoughs jades
Black one makes you a better gamer
false. more rgb makes you a better gamer so white
the finish on the black pc plate is amazing
kind of digging this https://mekibo.com/products/keykobo-moon-rabbit
gonna pretend its gundam themed
After loosening the connections between wire and stab housing problem still occurs. Improved on some but got worse on others, even though wires are def looser now.
Starting to suspect caps or PC plate fit issues, because idk how I could have installed them wrong.
There seems to be a noticeable difference in the action of the stuck stabs, they sort of "hitch" about halfway down
When no keycap is installed the stabs aren't loose, but not difficult to move like they were originally. Don't notice the "hitching" or bumps in the action when no cap installed either.
Did you get a black plate by chance?
These are nice
For context, are you using the module, with wooting pc plate, with tx ap screw ins or clip ins?
Correct, module with PC plate and TX AP long pole screw in
Thank you
Just takin note of people with issues so far
I will be getting my tx ap clip ins tomorrow
I have have the module and various pc plates
Mine are not long pole or screw in
2 white and 1 black PC plates
Yes
Will be the same for me, but I only have one 60HE š
@tawdry tree I think you were asking about where HE sensors are one ATK68 right? Drunkdeer posted about their new keyboard and it does seem like ther are integrated LED + HE sensors
Tested with known good caps and still sticking. Not sure where to go from here. Manually moving stabs feels fine after loosening wires up so idk why it feels so bad once caps go on.
Looking closer at the plate shows that itās bending around the stabs, maybe this is putting the switch slightly off center and causing opposite side of stab to bind
I didnt. I usually just turn RGB off so it's not a concern for me.
Turn the cap around and try it. Sometimes there may be slight warping that causes this
It still occurs when tested with caps that work fine on other stabs
Is it all stabs or just one?
I donāt use RGB either but I like the black between the gaps even tho with GMK the gaps are almost nonexistent
I get it. Makes it look nice and sleek
Yeah
It was all of them originally (1 returned but barely). I took them off and reinserted the wires maybe 20 times for each housing and they became noticeably looser. However once the cap goes on they don't go straight down smoothly and won't return at all. Currently LShift and space return mostly OK but others stick hard.
These are the stock stabs?
TX AP (long pole) screw in
yesterday @tawdry tree mentioned his TX screw-ins also did not fit well. So this might be a TX issue.
I saw that discussion but gave up trying to follow it because I thought they were talking about plate mount. Now that I look closer I think you're correct, this might be TX tolerance issue.
These stabs were highly recommended, but I guess that was only with those using plate mount on prebuilt
Can anybody confirm they're successful using screw in TX AP stabs on module?
Yeah, the plate mount ones work fine but they also dont have to worry about cut-out clearance. Youre now the 2nd or 3rd person to say the screw-ins have an issue. I know that @harsh dove is testing the clip-ins this weekend to check those.
thats odd that screw in specifically doesnt work. badseed used TX AP clip ins and those worked just fine for him. I wonder if they changed the molding up a bit between the two.
Yeah who knows. If Cam confirms the clip-ins work fine then I think we can safely say it's TX screw-ins only. However I'd also like to know if it affects only the PC plate or the steel plate as well.
screw ins seem to warp slightly when screwed in tight
my module arrives soon so I'll be able to test my clip ins
would suck if they didnt work lol
my plate came today so time to use my new module with new stabs n switches 
bought some jades too, gonna compare them to raptors
If that's the case @gusty mist could try loosening them a bit just to see if that's what's causing the problem.
i noticed it with the stock module stabs
loosening them slightly fixes it but even warped, the stock ones are fine, must be the tolerances on tx stabs being a bit tighter
Well that would explain why clip-ins don't have an issue. I'll wait for Matt to test it out
its possible, the tolerences are pretty tight on TX APs and if it gets warped I could see them having way too much friction or just getting stuck entirely
np
Sup I received the 60He+ module and I was looking at case compatibility, is just what is the difference between Tofu 60 and redux and which one should I get?
Just want to fix keeb despair
redux offers a brass weight and also allows you to align the usb cutout correctly
Guys what is the absolute best modding for this keyboard i dont really care about the budget I just want it to sound good or should i wait for the wooting 80 and mod that one?
šŖšŖšŖthanks mane imma get this one then
And do i need to lube the switches or is it already lubed?
Factory lubed, up to you if you want more lube.
Iāll test both plates
Unless youāre meaning screw ins
Then I cannot test unless I buy some
I just used tx ap long pole clip ins and they work great
Are the standoffs on the pc plate removable?
The standoffs make the o ring kind of hard to fit in but it does eventually work
nah
they are injected into the plate
Iāll test wooting steel and pc plates with the tx ap clip ins regardless tho just for science
I have my ap stabs in the steel plate right now
and the are a bit slower to return
Clip ins?
oh no sorry thought you mean the plate mount ones
Yeah it didnāt look like it was possible without dremeling it off
indeed
Any one know will this solve the issue if I use the gateron magnetic jade, thx
I wouldnt recommend buying long pole stabs before testing out to see if you have any issues
No luck. Still sticking when completely loose
What's odd is even though the plate is bending around the stab, I put a switch in and stab is still loose. Once keycap is on it binds up and wont return.
However, if I take the left shift keycap with working stabs and put it on the right shift, stabs stick
do you have any other keycaps you can test?
Yes I have already stated that same issue occurs with confirmed good caps
Then as we mentioned earlier, it just might be an issue with TX screw-ins as you would now be #3 to report a problem with the plate binding or being too tight with TX screw-ins.
Yeah I agree but what would the issue be
If it's not binding because of the stab housing being compressed
Idk what else it could be
Likely the same issue Ive run into with staebies and its the the tolerances are so tight (in an effort to reduce any wobble) that they sometimes are just too tight.
With tolerances that tight, even a .1mm off in the housing or the plate could cause a problem
But here's my confusion:
- Stab works fine with a keycap installed and NO switch
- Stab works fine with a switch installed and NO caps
But when both installed it wont budge
Someone else 2 days ago solved the problem by shaving off the plate cut-out slightly. I dont suggest that as its a destructive fix but it would likely fix your issue.
I disagree
If plate fit was the issue the stab would be binding with switch installed and no cap
Hmm... I see your point and the only counter I would have to that would be that with the switch in, which forces alignment of all 3, its just enough to cause it to bind up.
Yeah I'm not trying to argue it's just baffling
Makes me wanna buy screw ins
Also frustrating bc these stabs have a lot nicer action than stock
I agree. I dont know the real reason, just speculation. Ive only ever tested with the plate mount TX stabs and I only own the clip-ins that I could test with.
Like what's the point of being compatible with screw ins if they don't fit industry standard stabs
Hello
I have to assume it's some alignment issue between the switch and stab. Because good keycaps still have this issue
Does anyone know any website that sells iso nordic keycaps but also ships them to Canada
Odd request i know
Well like I said, the TX and the staebies push the envelope a little which decreases tolerances. Id be willing to bet that you could throw in durock, cherry, gateron or almost any other brand screw-in stab and they would work fine.
pretty sure wootng uses gateron
I havent looked at the screw-in's yet so could be.
Like everything i find that ships to canada is ansi and i'd need iso nordic
So any help would be appreciated š
Im not an ISO guy myself but I do think there are some CA vendors who sell ISO keycap sets
maybe try deskhero.ca or wasdkeyboards.com
1st party "mods" vs 3rd party mods
Why did I have to marry a dane... them and their wierd alphabet xd
Bought them for science
Both sound great but you should also post up a 2nd party mod video. And maybe a larger primary monitor for monketype.
Hope that works out
Sounds like kin25 should make a Rev 5 because rev 4 has some problems
To be fair, they are called "Almost Perfect" not perfect
Extreme truth in advertising lol
Literally
TX P stabs when
Hey, guys i got my wooting today. Can i deactivate the windows key?
Yes you can.
I cant find it
this isnt the right channel to ask but
Or you can just remap it all together.
yes
magnetic jade vs raptor he with stem swap
Jades all day
I went with jades and absolutely love them
Does anyone have a sound test comparison
The 60HE+ supports screw in stabs.
Though apparently not TX AP screw-ins
I used APs once before and didnāt have this.
I have all but confirmed that the stab housings being compressed by the plate/switch is NOT causing the issues.
Yes it should, the plate is too tight for āsomeā TX stabs to fit, screw ins, clip ins and plate mounts
Seems most likely that it's alignment problems between switch stems and stab stems. But only evidence for that is this - I'll quote from my msg above:
- Stab works fine with a keycap installed and NO switch
- Stab works fine with a switch installed and NO caps
But when both installed it wont budge
Yeah, not quite sure. Looks like you baited Cam into buying some screw-ins to test next week and he is testing clips-in this weekend
Yeah very interesting!
@tawdry tree did you end up going back to stock stabs or waiting on a solution for TX?
He is waiting for TX P stabs instead of AP stabs.
Went beck to stock and waiting on my staebies to test next.
Do you have screw ins or plate mounts again?
Screw-in
I think I know the problem
Out of the oil into the fire. Staebies have been my most problematic hehe. They will probably work great though.
Moment
Reluctant to put in stock because there's so much more rattle
Maybe better once relubed
100% better relubed and if you have a syringe (you should get one) you can tune them really well.
ngl the stock screw ins on the module seem good, esp the stabs for the space bar
the escape one and the left shit need some tuning
Idk if itās just me but the only one I have an issue with is the right shift on my module
if you used jades you wil need to oring on the stab for the long term
stock caps are so tight I rly don't think it's necessary
fuckers are pulling my switches out
So do I need o rings for jades or not
i ment for custom stuff but you might want the oring anyway cause after long term use it might get deformed
stock lube will almost always be inconsistent, you're better off tuning or even just lubing them normally
No
i did it for every stab casue it make not feel or sound diffrenc with the oring on the stab but it helkp the balance as it cont get onesided after long term use
no
Well ideally the high quality stabs I bought would work but apparently tolerances on this board are just shit
If you donāt shave off the outer edge on both sides of the plate highlighted in green here, the plate will cause both stabs to be pushed towards each other thus shortening the distance between the two, the wire and keycap will push the stab stem outward resulting in a too tight or unusable stab.
Use your jades on regular stabs, see if you have issues
If you do, try o ring
theres almost no sound difference between stock stabs and TX AP stabs, just lube your stabs and you'll be go to go
Well, third time is the charm so they might not work this time š„².
I have faith
i mean over time the key (spacebar) will move depending on how hard you game an press down on the keyboard
Varies per user.
also was going to ask are these switches like really hard to pull out/put in compared to regular mech switches or am i just weak
Literally no sound difference, tx ap just requires less tuning normally because theyāre tighter
probably the latter
lmao
This isn't the case for me. Stabs work fine with no switch and keycap installed. Stabs work fine with switch and no keycap installed.
exactly
TX AP stabs are just better stock
god the jades do sound amazing
these new cable colors need to get here faster than they are planning for them to be
Check if the stabs work outside the plate with a keycap, if they do then itās probably what I said. If not, it might the that your keycap stems are too thick foe the stab housing. š¤£
LOL
ngl these switch taped lekkers sound real nice
Brother please read, they work fine INSIDE the plate with a keycap
compared to the non taped versions
thought you meant no switch and keycap š
do you use stock keycaps?
Yeah stock, but also tested with caps that don't have stab issue on other board
So in my case I've ruled out warped caps and housing compression issues
Technically the plate compressing housings could still be causing it ONLY IF it's causing the stab stems to go out of alignment with the switch stem
Which is very possible considering the only case where stab gets stuck is when ALL THREE keycap + stab + switch are installed
Keep in mind keycaps donāt have stab issues with all stabs if they have warping
Ok but i think it's fair to say caps are fine if 2 sets of caps work on another board and 2 sets of caps do not work on this board
Then it wouldnāt work with just the stabs so my only guess is with the switch installed the stems of the stabs donāt exactly align with the holes of the keycap.
My stock caps are fine with the APs
mattzz are you sure your TX APs dont have some sorta molding issue?
For example none of my lower quality keycaps work on my tx ap stabs in my zoom75 due to warping and the more precise tolerance
But those same keycaps all work fine on my wooting stock stabs because those stabs are a bit looser
They work w/o switch
My left shift works but when i move the cap to another stab it binds up
^
Yeah ^^ prevailing theory
Plate just has bad tolerances
Maybe we should wait for Cam to get his so somebody else can attest to this, but prob should be reported to Wooting
Does your plate not look like this when you put your stabs through? With the plate āpinsā all bent outwards
It does #š§ākeyboard_modding message
Itās what I said 100%
Theyāre off center from where they normally should be in any other plate.
š
Iām not quite sure why this happens yet though
Cause there are standards to this shit
I understand tight tolerances but this is ridiculous it's not even close
exactly
And Iām pretty sure Woot used just cherry standards
I'm reporting it
I did in feedback already
So I just got my 60 he but Iām not sure which o-rings I should use
Both are the same but a different color.
Actually
Is one foam?
One is like a silicone feel and the other is kinda hard
Interesting, well both have the same use
To put on your caseās stand offs
and on the top of your PCB
The stand offs of the case
Love the response you got, that's rly helpful
šš
"Just take a fuckin file to it day 1"
my question is: why is this only happening with screw in stabs?
TX AP clip in have been reported to work just fine
I have no fear of minor DIY but this is an industry standard product. Either TX AP screw-ins or PC plate is not up to spec
Not, one report with clip ins and another with plate mounted.
weird, because a good few people have used TX AP clip in with no issues here
maybe they changed the molding a bit or something?
Yeah thatās what Iām trying to understand as well.
I doubt it as the first guy to adres this said it over a month ago
weird
I wonder if they have a few different molds or something
and depending on the batch you could get screwed over
Yeah thatās what I thought as well but then Iād think youād have a couple that work and some that donāt.
And none work
could be a wooting plate issue
yk I wonder actually
I've seen people in the EU use them just fine, but now that NA clouds is getting theirs people are having issues?
some with a 3rd party plate should lay them on top of each other and compare the holes.
Honestly probably combo of both. In theory if Wooting makes stab holes tight for snug fit and TX makes housing large for snug fit this would happen
From what I can tell the stock and TX housings are the same size but I don't have a micrometer on hand
True but then either or both wouldāve disbanded the standard which isnāt really smart to do if you want broad compatibility.
If it was the wooting plate though, this would be an issue with TX clip-ins AND other stab brands. But thats not the case.
At this point and time the only data we have says its a TX AP screw-in issue.
yeah
Or the PC plate mold has changed with the module delivery
Three people with screw ins reported this, one with clip ins and another with plate mounted.
wouldnt be surprised if theres a mold difference between the two causing the issue
my other theory was that the EU-Wolken batch had an ok batch of PC plates while NA-Clouds had a messed up batch
Lol i did file a plate on a keyboard day 1 because of the stabilisers, are people new to this or?
Well with the hundreds who have replaced plate mount stabs, then this is sounding more and more likely like a TX brand issue. Has anyone said they have stab problem with any brand other than TX? I havent seen one
TX stabs with Wootingās plate?
Not Wooting keeb
Oh I see
I don't think many ppl have installed 3rd partry screw ins since modules just started being delivered
The TX and Staebie tolerances are very very tight. Its a thing. A known thing.
I didnāt have to widen the plate before
tbf I dont think people have really replaced stabs all that much since stock stabs are pretty damn good
Thock do you have a 3rd party plate to compare the two? See if thereās a difference in hole sizes?
however I havent heard any issues with stabs until now
There have been hundreds for sure. Not maybe yet on the module screw-ins, but for sure on the original
I filed a steel plate because Durock V2s screw-ins wouldn't fit in it (Not Wooting)
also TX plate mounts work fine aswell
it seems like TX AP might just have really bad QC issues
All stabilisers are not made equal
Could be QC but then again itās so consistent.
Would make more sense if it was a change of mold
I think the first thing we need to figure out is if ANY replacement screw-ins have worked on the new 60HE+ board and PC plate
tbh I think wooting PC plate is just tight and sensitive to these issues
I agree it points to TX QC issue
But could be something like the screw holes out of alignment
I've not compared TX Stabs to Durocks sizewise
tmk I dont think anyone else has switched out for other screw in since stock wooting ones are really solid
Although precision required to make a PCB would imply they can't fuck up hole placement LOL
Except for the Jade travel issue
Your plate is deforming, like mine. It has to do with the stabs and plate, nothing else.
Pretty naive to assume that, but yes that's most likely.
I donāt think itās naive, just look at it š
I think people use TX AP long pole clip in for that
Bro I know that but screw-in should be superior to clip in, i shouldn't have to get the exact same stabs with different attachment method
also almost everyone has moved on from getting long pole stabs for jades
Someone with clip ins reported this too, itās not an only screw in issue.
as they should.
Yeah which is why Luigi's msg is useless lol
Long pole is better solution than shoving an o-ring onto the stem lol
wdym? which message?
thats not what I meant actually, you dont need to do either
unless specifically you had issues I should add
Stating that people use long pole clip in to resolve the travel issue. I already have long pole stabs so obv I know this. You're suggesting replacing the stabs I already have with the same thing
You donāt need long poles for jades by the way, thatās what I meant with as they should. Someone said it one day and everyone thought they had to use long poles.
I know they're not necessary but they're better and if I already wanted to upgrade stabs why not get the ones that better suit my build?
I didnt suggest you replace the stabs? I said "tmk I dont think anyone else has switched out for other screw in since stock wooting ones are really solid" you said "Except for the Jade travel issue" then I said "I think people use TX AP long pole clip in for that." I was stating that even in the case of the jades, I dont think anyone has really switched out to other screw in stabs.
Also, I bought the stabs before module was delayed for 2 weeks and EU had time to do more testing
they're not better?
If you plan to stick with Jades forever then maybe its a good decision. However with new magnetic switches coming out weekly, you might find way better switches coming soon that would require you to switch back to standard stabs.
How are stabs that match the travel distance of my switches not better for those switches. Please explain this logic
Actually dont
I don't wanna read ur msgs anymore LOL
uh thats sorta rude but you do you ig
ok I more meant that they're not better in any really meaningful way, im sure if you stuck with the stock stabs you wouldnt have any issues.
most jade users use the stock stabs or regular stabs with no issues
Yes
Figured
Cam do you have a 3rd party plate around that you can compare the stabs holes to by any chance?
Iām not home but I think I do
Won't matter without micrometer we're talking .1mm differences here
I have digital calipers
Huge
Would be awesome to know if there is much of a difference between the two.
Also interested in size of TX housing once they arrive - and difference between clip-in and screw-in
Will do
Screw ins do appear thicker-wider from the pics you guys have posted but well see
They look the same as stock but no way I could detect .1mm diff
To provide evidence, Iāve had my jades since December 28th, 2023. Using stock stabs with no issues since
Or rather tx ap stabs not stock wooting stabs
And not long pole
Are your screw-in's long pole?
just a warning those l60 in raptor will be a bit tight
probably already knew that tho
Yea I was feeling that. Definitely little to no stem wobble and as long as my keys come back up Iām happy haha
Did you switch to something else?
Was looking at the jades
Yea haha
Was typing that
Did it affect your stems at all with the jades?
you mean the raptors and l60?
Not stems. I meant stabilizer
Oh no but I run gmk on mine
issue is keycaps more than the stabs really
and im rocking tx ap stabs (not long pole)
Ohhh got it. Well if I donāt like these Iāll definitely give jades a try. Did you put the l60 stems into them or kept the jades stock?
Jades stock and won't really add anything to them
going to swap them to l60 springs eventually as too light for me but been lazy
If you have the raptors use those springs. Nice middle ground between the yellows and greens
Total Frankenstein haha
L60 stem, raptor springs, and jade housing
Fire
Yeah raptor springs are good too, but l60 spring weight been my favorite so far
This is my first time modding a keyboard though
Makes my custom boards for work feel "heavy" if i use anything else
So I appreciate the advice

No.
Hey guys I have an RK61 lubed Akko cs silver switches how do I make them sound deeper ? Iām thinking of doing this last mod before buying a wooting
tmk you cant really make switches themselves deeper, just the mods you add to the board can change how deep it sounds
why do you want to mod other switches before getting a wooting anyways?
PE foam insert vs silicon insert vs nothing, which would sound cleaner and more clacky in tofu redux?
Clacky? Probably silicone all things being equal
I agree
sorry, forgot to mention i am running the PC plate comes with the he60+ module
any reference on pc plate without anything between plate and pcb? that's how i built all my other boards.
"The silicone pad gives a more muted experience of the sound profile by lowering more mid frequencies and creates shorter, snappier sounds."
I'm running on no plate foam
Tirade as well
do you have a sound test?
tyty
sup fellow degens
sup
prince of thocc !
Day #69 of wooting taking my money and holding my module hostage
ayyy wsg
um
went to golfing for the first time in a while. played like shit, forgot a club that the korean group behind me stole. went to eat hotpot and burned my self on a quail egg badly enough to get blisters on the inside of my mouth. been shitting non-stop last night + today. but other than that and wooting still having my module its been pretty good i guess. wbu? LOL@fluid ravine
tasty
Was suffering from school
wrote 4 drafts for an essay
have to do a project for CS
mannnn
it sucks
finally got to play
computer science? counter strike?
Computer science
boo
guess what kind of project im doing
Keyboards
Yeah i talked to your mom
AKA USING A FKING KIT YEAAAAAAAAA
good stuff, learning cs early on is a huge advantage
ok pops- š
what a coincidence i talked to her the other day too
i was literally assigned this an hour ago ;-;
how do schools deal with chatgpt these days?
uhhh
dont know
no one got caught yet ig
turnitin has a built in ai check
i feel like i had a problem with connecting ideas smoothly and grammar mistakes.
for example, what if it was an argumentative essay, and you told chatgpt to write the essay but you gave it your own view points
would the ai check catch that?
yes
it's a language model
it has predefined grammar and syntax
it's very easy to pick up on
btw @stray tiger the tofu's black seems much richer than the fjell's
sounds pretty good too
finally have a full black keyboard
even the plate lol
syntax i can somewhat see, grammar i dunno. if see kids writing their rough drafts and asking chatgpt to correct it for grammar and syntax. dont see anything wrong with that.
guess thats different compared to asking chatgpt to generate an essay
interesante
the way to get around it is by telling chatgpt to summarise
then u interpret the info yourself
it's hard for chatgpt to cite sources sometimes
so you might have to do that yourself
@fluid ravine after listening to your soundtest I think silicone switch pad sounds similar to no switch pad but with higher pops, foam switch pad sounds the most muted, and no switch pad sounds the thockiest.
Sup mane sry for ping Iām the one that asked for tofu 60, the brass weight is worth it?
i mean most people say yes and if you dont like it you can always take it out
i mean i like my keyboard on the heavy side
Maybe sound a dumb question lol is just Iām new in this, I mean this add more weight but since aluminum case is already heavy, is worth to add this?
i mean the brass will change some of the sound i think the with the brass sounds better
Okey thanks!šŖšŖšŖ Imma order it then
from what i havew seen i also have yet to order and build my redux but other i heard sound better with the plate
what switchs are you using
L45
Iām coming from steelseries and they also weight 45 so I picked this and the 60He module
Just now Iām using it caseless

I'm also getting jades for my wooting, did you run into any issues with the jades?
Okey mane thanks!
You need to grab the beta patch for the jades cuz of the shorter travel but they work completely fine on the wooting
no only that you may have to use o ring on the spacebar stab so the space bar don't lean to one side and pop off
cause the stab that come with the wooting are short and the jades don't go as far down as the lekkers
i feel that i have mine and might order another module for another build
So many parts coming
And I donāt need any of them
Lmfao
All those parts are for testing, only the keycaps were bought for personal use lol
lmao
Just now received my module
Don't look at this then https://cannonkeys.com/products/freya
Meletrix Zoom75 - Ultra Customizable, ultra affordable. The Zoom75 by Meletrix is their latest installment in the Zoom Series of keyboards. This time, they are taking customizability and features to the next level. Zoom75 has four different options for top right configurations, including an LCD screen and knob!
That knob is sick
Bro Iāve been looking at this
I posted it last week I think
Here
I think ima get it
I need to make a decision at some point to go full HE only moving forward.
Ikr
Probably not today, but at some point.
this is what I decided and sold a few mx boards I had
Yeah forsure
2024 is the year of HE
There's so much HE stuff popping up on what feels like a near daily basis
Which stand offs should I include? Just the one near the space bar and keep the center off correct? For the Alumaze60
None imo
Will probably be 100+ boards available by year end but Wooting has and will be leading the pack. The stuff you guys are going to find out about over the next few weeks is ridiculous.
Should I save my money for wooting then?
I really like the way they did the gasket mount ont he 80HE and I'm sure the unrevealed info will make it a definite buy
I do prefer 65% though, but it seems worth it going bigger for the 80HE
Did you end up assembling your module as well?
Yeah, Iām still gonna do a live stream tho if people wanna see me mod it and test out different stuff
I havenāt modded it at all
That's just the start. Wooting is playing chess while the rest are playing checkers.
What's your socials
@harsh dove
Lmao
Itās @ cam off life on most things
One word tho
Definitely going to hold out for it
I really hope we see a 65% at some point as well, especially gasket mounted like teh 80HE
that would be perfection
Followed on twitch
I'm sure if there is a market for it, it'll happen eventually.
I saw some rumours that raesha is also working on a silent HE switch
very excited for those as well
even if they wont be wooting compatible for the time being
Twitch says your last stream was 3 years ago
Probably was
Iāve been leaning more towards YouTube content
To me streaming is something you do when you already have an audience that wants to watch you but not when first starting out
I used to help other streamers/tubers with their content and setups years ago but never done anything for myself
I see, will find your youtube channel then
btw
for anyone planning on using tx ap clip ins
they're pretty wide on the housing
may take some pushing to get the plate over them
I have like ugly live streams of myself testing equipment on there lmao
Geez these switches fit ridiculously tight. I thought Iād snap the switch pulling it out
Only 1 switch too. Hopefully I like the L45s and donāt have to switch out for the L60s
Youll like them unless you prefer a heavier switch
Iād probably say I like lighter. Tested them out side by side
Geez this thing sounds good right out the box. Video doesnāt do justice
Thereās a tick there but compared to most gaming keyboards thatās pretty impressive
Now Im curious how the lekkers sound irl
Because my first switches were gateron jades
Anyone know which rows typically experience Cherry profile interference? I want to test it for myself before I put everything on
Maybe @stray tiger
Someone can correct me if Iām wrong but I donāt think this issue exists anymore
That is correct but I do want to test it to be certain for myself
Row 3 was the traditional row but should be good
Yeah I think it was a thing like 2 years ago
Then they changed switch design I believe
To account for it
anyone have any recomendations on how to mod the wooting screw in stabs or should i replace them? The space bar is good for the most part but has tick when i ever so slightly tap it. Also my right enter key has a lot of wobble
Thanks for the confirmation. I donāt feel interference in any row
Test row 4 also
Finally finished
Does anyone know what the wooting keycap profile is
Did you end up installing your switches north or south facing?
Checked the rows. Compared a north facing and south facing orientation. I donāt notice anything off
Iāll proceed with north facing throughout the entire keyboard
this is what they can sound like too 
Dang I donāt doubt if I remove these switches Iāll break at least 10 of them in the process. They sit wayyyy too tight
I think itās the PC plate. Not the switch
they're easy to remove, just gotta wiggle instead of pull
Not in my case. Iāve pulled a bunch of switches in my lifetime so far. These are some of the tightest fitting switches Iāve felt yet
i have the same switches and plate, pretty easy to remove in my case
but they are definitely tighter
than the original l60s
anyone elses new gat jade switches constantly spamming?
Perhaps yours is not as tight as the PC plate Iāve received. But they are certainly a challenge to pop off. I have a Ramaworks switch puller as well
Remove the PCB from the plate and it'll be way easier
i have 3 pc plates including a black, they're only hard to remove if i pull straight up
w save thankyouš
i like thatg
i just saw a stable update for 4.6.12
i like clacky main keys and thocky spacebars 
funnily enough, only took 1 try to get it perfect
whatchu do
stab foam, tx ap clip ins and some lube
If I did that, how would I re-install the PCB once the switches are installed to the plate? Perhaps Iām misunderstanding?
ic
remove the module, remove the plate, remove switch, reassemble
i have the plate mount ver
Light lube of krytox on housing and stem and also light amount of grease on wire
Remove the PCB from the plate, take out the switches, reassemble PCB and plate and install new switches
it's the longer but easier way
Gotcha. Iām about 80% done so I might not turn back now. But Iāll keep that in mind moving forward
buy an alumaze
Pretty sure itās OEM
i like that wooting kept plate mount compatibility
They donāt sell separately ?
some plate mount stabs are pretty good
not as of yet
Remove PCB when removing switches from plate
Makes life easier
10x
Sorry Iām late
Realizing people already said this
mines sound pretty good
dunno what else i could do with it to sound different but ya
Mid game rn lol
One of my friends said my keeb sounds like dominoes falling
Alright got them on
(Stock module x Salvation x No Mods at all)
very nice
Beginning Game
@median spade
Tiny bit of ping
o
Can hear the metallic resonance in the case
Is there any noticable difference between using the thin case foam that comes with the alumaze and the thicker foam that comes with the he module?
they're both the same
its just each one fits the their own case
Fully assembled with module
Nice
planning to get this too lol
Been wanting to achieve that lil shoosh creamy keyboard feel
Tho he uses a mammoth 75
Got this in my module, does this mean I canāt have my switches southfacing? Because I want zero interference with my cherry keycaps
No, it doesnāt matter
Only affects RGB because wooting PCB has north facing LEDs
Gotcha
Type test
Yeah I care more about keycap interference than RGB
Yeah I just now set it up. No interference with Cherry profile
I plan to get jades for my 60he and Ive read about the spacebar popping off and the easy fix being to put an o ring on the stabilizer stems. Does that make a noticeable difference to the feel or sound? Im new to the whole modding scene.
South facing ? Because north does have interference when you slide a piece of paper in between them
The spacebar popping off is an uncommon issue
I would just get normal stabs with your jades and see if you have any problems
You most likely wonāt
Yes I tested south facing vs north. North facing doesnāt have any compatibility issues with these lekkars. Youāre fine to use all north facing with Cherry profile
100%
Get a strong o ring and not a mushy one
I got ks-20s
Gotcha, Iām unsure with those switches. I am using L45 Lekkars
Iāll keep it on south facing, just making sure that there werenāt any performance differences
oh fk that sound alot better than i thought
You mean the stock ones? Im modding the original keyboard, didnt buy just the module.
Sounds good. No complaints from me
Yeah stock stabs are fine
K cool! Also, the jades arent rattly like the lekkers right? I was going to film and lube the lekkers but it seems like its better to invest in better switches to do that with. Is it even necessary to film the jades?
So Iām not sure how I feel about the Alumaze60. The concrete gray looks like a dirty white and the weight is noticeably light. I do like the typing angle though. Wondering if I would have enjoyed the redux more š¤
Alumaze doesnāt have a weight
I mean itās overall weight
I assume youāre referring to the brass insert?
Nor is it heavy.
Itās little brass insert is insanely light š feels hallow actually
Yeah that makes sense. I do love the strap though. Iāll give it 1-2 days and consider returning it
If I like it within that time frame Iāll keep it
Tofu might be a better option after all.
It is significantly heavier.
Happy to be able to test it in front of me
Yeah it is. The typing angle steered me away
I also think they kept it lightweight intentionally
I like the low typing angle of the Alumaze
But I donāt like this dirty white and light weight. Feels like a gaming keyboard rather than some custom board
Okay! Thanks
I feel like light weight with metals cause it to ping more.
The strap is unique though š¤
It is.
Yeah perhaps. Iām sure it keeps costs down as well
Possibly, but I think they kept it lightweight for people who travel with their boards
Idk
Love the way the module feels. No complaint there. Far better than my past ducky mecha mini
Feels soft, has this thump sound, solid
Thoughts on Cherry mx vs OEM?
You can use the Mechaās case as well if you want.
\\
Basically the same, Cherry is slightly slimmer
But itās not much heavier than the alumaze.
Still getting used to typing on it though
I think.
Iāve had my ducky like 4-5 years
Yeah Iām aware. Just wanted something new with a white color to match more keycaps
It does, 100%
Ah I see.
I really like how light the L45s are
I want a white case too tbh
Yeah if I ever go for the salvation down the line, Iāll pick it up in white
I think the salvation is end game for the wooting
I donāt even know what else can top it off
Some people mention Fjell case but I donāt like how it looks
Itās just hard for me to justify Fjell cause itās basic tray mount
And doesnāt come with anything else
Salvation is a full kit
Yeah that too. Leaf springs are very unique
I was also considering switch pads but some people were saying that interferes with the HE sensors. Is that also an uncommon issue? I just donāt know how stuff will interact with a switch thats not the same size as the stock switches.
Hi! I just bought a 60he, would you guys recommend me lubing the switches?
This is my opinion, but I definitely donāt think itās worth lubing them. They feel great right out the box
Lubing switches takes ages and personally didnāt enjoy it
It most likely wonāt interfere as the keyboard recalibrates itself.
I donāt remember anyone here who had issues with switch pads.
yeah, its really time consuming, but so it only affects the sound and not perfomance?
It is only the sound. Nothing to do with performance correct
Alright ty
Thanks! Yeah i read through the server and a couple people were advising against it but Im not sure if they ever bothered to even try it.
But does the key caps affect sound alot too? I've heard that the abs key caps sound bad?
Yeah Iāll work on setting that up when I get home

Most foam switch pads are quite thin and thereās a little room still between the switch and the PCB normally so I think itāll be fine.
Told you
Yes the caps certainly impact the sound signature. Depends what quality ABS but yeah that can also make the sound change a bit
I like the Fjell too but itās hard to justify for it
For example GMK keycaps are ABS but they are high quality feeling keycaps. Expensive but nice @past parcel
Itās fine with a standard Mx build as I have those lying around but it really bad with the 60he for some reason
Yeah I feel like itās not doing anything for the wooting
At all 
What color did you pick up?
Nice
arent they good? @static tendon
I havent tested this exact set but Iāve had good experiences with Tai Hao. These look good. I donāt see what profile they are though, and they appear to be ISO layout just to keep in mind
If ISO is what youāre going for, perfect. But confirming the profile is important as well
Im from denamrk so i thinkh iso is the correct layout
rn i have the keycaps in a keychron k2
OEM
Theyāre a bit thin for PBT too so might be a little higher pitch then youāre expecting
If youāre set on these, thatās great. But you can also consider DCX profile keycaps from drop. (Theyāre very similar to Cherry profile but are a lot cheaper)
Gotcha. OEM is fine, again itās all preference. I personally have been aiming for cherry recently
im not really sure what the speecific layout are called or what difference there is but thanks for the inputs, i really appreciate
it
im pretty sure they are SA profile, from looking at the internet
May reply a bit slow here. Handling some stuff on the side. Will reply once able
just finished my build š¤©
- wooting module 60he+ w/ PC plate
- tofu60 redux white
- gateron magnetic jade switches
- tx ap stabilizers
- gmk modo 2 keycaps
mods include: tape mod, gummy o-ring mount, stabs/switch pads
Which stabs
Screw in or clip in or plate mount?
Yes.
Anyone have any good Cherry MX keycap recommendations? Just want best quality for price idc about looks, can be ABS too
ty
Also this
South facing. Idc about the rgb with this keycap set
@harsh dove https://www.twitch.tv/alexotos Freya build
long pole clip-ins. screw-ins wont work with o-ring mount
You got time. Alex going to spend while building it
Correct, just wanted to see which stabs you got for plate compatibility
No issues?
Been having some people with issues with the screw ins
Clip ins too
Oh did one of the guys have clip ins that we talked too?
Yes
Okay ty
Three screw ins, one clip ins and one plate mounts.
Gotcha
like $50 in packaging lol
nope, I ordered an A55 red o-ring from aliexpress for 2$. its literally the same one that graveshift sells. 185mm OD, 3.5mm
@tawdry tree ^
why is everyone talking about o rings lately
I mean with the stabilizers fitting in the switch plate.
You used orings on your stabs?
Some others and mine didnāt fit thatās why Iām asking
no talking about the gummy o-ring mount
š«
you need to have clip-in stabilizers, was that the issue?
no clip-ins work great, super solid.
No, mine physically didnāt fit in the hole of the switch plate. You didnāt have an issue like that?
Interesting.
however one thing to note, don't use any full stabilizer pads, i had to cut mine off partially because with clip ins they need to sit flush on the PCB. even 0.5mm difference made it almost impossible to insert those small plastic retainers on the backside
would probably not make any difference anyways, but I had them laying around so I might awell used it
Yeah and you donāt really need stab pads with APs from my exp
yeah can totally see that. but again, I just had them already
I had a QK65 with oil king switches before, I must say that build had more of that marble sound, however the stabs def sound better in the wooting. kinda like both, actually surprised how well the 60HE turned out from a sound perspective.
South facing 
Haha, HE boards can sound as well as non HE boards!
gateron magnetic jades appear
silicone or black foam inlay ? And which sound do each make
you have to force them through
my tx ap clip ins were the same
they work fine once in tho, top of the housing is slightly too large
Did you get the 60HE with already installed l60s or the module with switches in a jar?
I used foam, I think it gives a lower pitched sound compared to silicone. BadSeed Tech made a comparison. see his latest video about wooting 60he module from 2 months ago
Thank you, new to this
Anyone know why I cannot connect to module to Wootility?
Looks like someone replied saying they are OEM profile so they will sit higher than a cherry profile keycap
Just quickly looking at it, these don't look like they're SA profile
Your plate looked like this when you forced them through? With the switch plate āpinsā bent outwards?
yep
doesnt affect anything tho
It isnāt normal and youāre lucky that yours work.
its perfectly fine
For some it puts so much stress on the stabilizers housings that it caves inward causing the stab to not function properly/smoothly.
with thin housings yeah
Does anyone know a good top housing that would fit the lekker switches
Module and case box look fine but this lol
Iām happy to see another brotha keyboard modding tho
Yeah thatās odd lol
Anyone have any preferences on fortnite settings? I have 0.4mm Rapid Trigger on with 0.4mm actuation
Imma overlook it lol. Waited way to long to be mad over a box š¤£
As long as your switches are fine
Usually this is caused by another USB utility like the Razor or Logitech software.
yk this is entirely possible right
just-
Ah, good ol Microsoft paint explanations
take anything
push against the stabs in different directions
with the entire thing set up
when it loosens up when you push in certain direction
you will know what your problem is
any tool will work
@stray tiger finger print magnet
dam didnt know that mb
Did anyone try to change the lekker switches top housing?
Damn really no one tried š¢
I tried
Canāt remember with what switch
Think it was raptors
But didnāt work from what I remember
It was a silly mistake from my end, I didn't realize you can click the message and alllow the browser permission. Once I did that, I got it working š
Yeah same problem i tried with multiple ones the stim is too big
Did the stim fit?
Yeah lekker stems fit in raptor housing
Albeit kind of tight
Too tight for me personally
Damn i tried with milky yellows and ink blacks and some other switches i cant seem to make the stems fit
Those housing probably donāt have the curved sides
Iām guessing
@upper tusk
Mx switch housings donāt have that curve around the stem
that is nice. i already got raptors but i dont know if i completely like them
Hence why they wouldnāt fit
Are you going for a clacky sound?
Yeah
yeah basically
the bottom out sound isnt completely satisfying if you know what i mean
Raptors are good then but you might like the Jades or wait for more switches to come out
Yeah
yeah thats what i was thinking about
theres not enough innovation in he switches yet
Nah, jades are the first biggest change Iāve seen so far
Most of the other HE switches are the same
Some have reversed polarity
Got some dual rails coming out
my wallet..
š
reading this makes me rethink my jades purchase 
Why
because then i'll be tempted to spend even more on new switches 
All g
This should be working since it has the same curve but the stem still doesnāt fit
It has same curving but the stem seems to be stuck on the white bit thats sticking out on top right and bottom right
Is there a way to tell if it will fit or not
Ah yeah I see the little notches
Besides just trying to fit a stem in the top housing, no not really
Sadge
Just got these KeyTok Ctrl keycaps to pair with the Alumaze lavender. I think they're gonna look nice together!
I always forget to ask this question but is there a way to open switches without bleeding
ššš
A switch opener?
I am using one
š¤Øš¤Øš¤Ø
I just seem to always bleed when opening alot of them
Since i dont think its a good idea to let krytox into an open wound i would wait or put a plaster
Wdym
.
Idk the name in english, wrench switch opener maybe?
Gateronās one for example
$35
Prob cheaper ones too
Prob there is one in aliepress that is cheap
Yeah there is, but I use the Gateron one's as well
@harsh dove what rapid trigger settings do you use?
I donāt like it, itās a hassle compared to a smaller switch opener.
It's like a nutcracker to me
I feel like I'd squeeze too hard with that switch puller and the entire switch would crack
A switch cracker, yes! Thatās its new name from now on.
It sounds like it too šš
You canāt really squeeze too hard with it as it only goes until a switch is open.
Literally lol
yeah you can't really break a switch with it
Least I never have
I'm assuming this isn't the browser version of the Wootility correct?
No
Oh I see, it looks like yuou have Rapid trigger enabled only on the WASD keys correct?
I have it on all keys when gaming
Some people take it off their shift and spacebar tho

