#🔧│keyboard_modding
1 messages · Page 114 of 1
I wonder if any EU stores will have in stock for order cuz shipping from USA ill be paying a lot extra for shipping and customs
100% just give it some time
Yeah im gonna wait anyways till others have them for sound tests
these just dropped on gateron yesterday I think
I do really enjoy the colour combo
for some reason the got posted on alibaba like 5 days ago
Lekker L45 with Krytox 205G0 lube.
Overall, the responsiveness on the L45's after lube feels better than the L60's.
Did you change the springs?
L45 springs
I'll probably order new caps for it as these are just what I had on the board pre-mod. Also ordered a custom tape mod from KBDFans.
It is, if you don't pull push down the key when you install the keycap.
I just want to know if the Carbon Fiber ANSI Plate from kbdfans works with the Alumaze60 case. Are there any issues during installation? If you've done this before, do you have any pictures to share? Many thanks 🙏🏻
it works
just attach standoff
Awesome !! Thanks got any pic for that
There's really no need to open a support thread, when your questions were already answered here, @wide edge
Uhh... in #archived_wooting_60he rather. 😄
Yeah we all got this issue
Whenever I’m doing holes mod for the stabs, do I have to cut something off first?
what if the jades sound/feel better?
You worry about where your money goes and I'll worry about mine
When will they arrive?
5-7 days
End of next week hopefully if they work through the holidays
bro we are literally posting everything here dont take it seriously i know its your money 👍
day #69: tkl wen
+5 minutes

but iam sad rn everyone taking so serious 😦
Lol I wasn't being serious bro
It's addiction bro
i know
Worst things to be addicted to
Yep
i can literally understand the feel
hahah
who know i was going to spend hundread of dollars for this hobby
you saw my piranha keyboard
on god
I paid for expedited cause aint no way I'm waiting 10-20 days
do geralt do superglide on witcher 3 😄
never tried it 🤣
iam going to buy geon switches 2 weeks later with frog mini
iam crazy became addict like you said 🤣
do i need to remove rhe dampener between the pcb and the plate in order to use gummy oring mount?
Stem is interesting
yeah, why are the indents or something on the top
lol fr fr
If you're using the silicon layer, then yes, but you can fit the oring with the foam layer
Almost looks like tactile bumps but it's a linear switch so idk
yeah, but that is where the keycaps sits, so how would that make a tactile bump. seems like it would just make it weaker and more wobbly
Not in the literal sense a tactile bump, that's just what it looks like lol
yeah, true
also the rails are tapered off near the top
yeah, idk if that part is just extra
Lekkers taper it off in a similar way, the Raptors also but with Raptors its more rounded off than squared
Yes
With a pair of tweezers
#shorts
How to Remove Plate Mount Stabilizers from Redragon K530
In this video I show you how to remove the plate-mounted stabilizers from the reddragon k530 or probably any other keyboard with north facing, protruding RGB lights. Using the included switch puller, you can pull out the stabs without having to separate the pcb from the plate.
Am...
I don't pull out the wire like he does tho, I just grab both stab housing and slide it out
tofu redux case?
ur probably fine without it
Did you install the brass standoff?
I'm sitting here going mad thinking about keyboard mods
wait till the 29th and you head will explode of ideas
whatchu mean by that my boy
ain't no way ur gonna do this to me
has anyone tried ixpe foam for the pcb?
or as switch pads
wait... you knew
🤣
75?
%100 tkl or riot
tkl or 75 forsure
The idea is to get it to sound like a helicopter
Anyone know whether I can order just the Raptor HE springs? Not too fussy about the other components of the switch. The 42-52g actuation force is optimal for me.
put kilmat in it
cut masking tape and fill some layer of it in there?
I could just straight up use a towel
like cut 3 layers of masking tape put it in there decide if you want more or less
The alumaze case came with two little brass coloured standoffs.
You screw one in where the spacebar screw goes, before putting the PCB in.
Might try that
really any thing to eat sound and fill space ideally easily removable if you dont like it
THOSE ARE STANDOFFS xD
Notice the screw shaped hole on the top
Yes. That is a standoff.
Hi guys any idea where I can find AZERTY key caps ?
Because some PCBs (not the 60HE) uses both standoff locations.
I see a lot of builders in here use poron pads but have any tried the pe foam mod?
Correct.
There's another optional spot near the middle
Yes we covered that 😄
https://youtu.be/Mr21id7MDZY?si=VGhw2LKA5utPk4cm just like that
Hey, this is a short review on the best plate mounted stabs on the market right now!!
FL CMMK LINK [Shoppe Malaysia Only]
- Nullkeyboards: https://invol.co/cl9imaw
- PCB Malaysia: https://invol.co/cl9qzz1
- Keebsproject: https://invol.co/cl9ltkj
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------...
ahh idk then
Thought of getting those before but wasnt really too available
So I've been trying to think of different mods to do and how I want to configure my wooting whenever it comes in and been in this chat a lot and watching videos scroll thru forms and so far this is the config I plan to use when my module comes in and it probably looks similar to other builds in here
Case: Tofu Redux
Pcb: wooting+
Plate: Polycarbonate
Switches: raptors or Jades (lubed w/205g0)
Stabs: TX AP Rev 4s (lubed w/205go/dielectric grease on wire)
Mods:
-O-ring gummy mount
-Tempest mod (2 layer masking/1 layer moleskin)
-pe/ixpe switch pads
-polyfill in case
-stock pcb foam
Oo thx
will buy them…eventually
which is the prefered stab? TX AP stabs or this FL CMMK v3?
People have tried tx ap stabs but I dont think anyone has fl cmmk v3s in their wooting
Tx ap stabs are the safer option tbh since fl cmmks arent as well known
personally I wouldnt reccomend raptors or jades, I'd wait for more options
but if thats what you want then go for it, looks good. the only thing is switch pads, which may interfere with the contact of the switches.
also polyfill is overrated imo, foam is fine
what contact
contact of the switches to the pcb
I’d only worry if it adjusted the seating of the switches
I received a DHL tracking number today for the new Gateron Jade Switches which I ordered yesterday that says 'package has been "returned to shipper", 5 hours after the first status "picked up". And now the site where I bought them from doesn't even load https://www.gateron.com/products/gateron-magic-jade-switch?VariantsId=10768 😭
I used credit card with Paypal protection so that's not what I'm worried about but I just want to try them.
Gateron is not scamming you lol
Though their specific product page for that one switch type is indeed spazzing out
The rest of their site works
Yeah like I said I doubt I get 'scammed', but I wonder if there's anything wrong on their end that deems not ready to ship and they recall all the shipments. Or they halted all the order at the moment. The listing on alibaba still works though
Once something gets shipped, there's no recalling it
Just gets yeeted out into the void and you hope it delivers or returns instead of just disappearing forever
source: I deal with shipping cases every day
raptors seem perfectly good and if they are still the best option by the time my module ships then I will go with them, and in terms of the switch pads it shouldn't interfere as they pretty thin and the base foam is pretty thick, which thick foams tend to also mute deeper sounds vs polyfill mutes high pitchsounds because it isn't quite as dense leaving more thocc
thats fair and raptors are good, but there will eventually be better switches and I dont know if its worth spending the money on them when lekkers are 20bucks with the module discount
again your money your choice
just my personal opinion
absolutely but there will always be something better
I just base it off of whats best atm
thats true, I personally just dont really like the sound of any HE switches rn
and lekkers are cheap and good enough
thats fair but if you compare lekker to raptor it ain't even close imo
the only lekkers that are close or maybe better is the ppl who have done the switch tape mod
Hey guys would appreciate if you could check out https://discord.com/channels/167181566978555904/1187523640821030963 - if you have any ideas for a fix it would be much appreciated
have you swapped switches with another key and see if that changes anything
also the foam the module comes with absorbs low and high sounds
Yep swapped it out with one of the stock ones, no difference
have you reseated your stabs
Yeah ive taken them out and put them back in if thats what u mean
yeh
idk thats weird
does it work on the right hand side or is it only when you press it directly
you could try taking apart the stabalisers and reputing them back together if you havent
Only directly in the center haha, very annoying for when I play games or anything as id normally just click on the left side
did you try reassembling the stab
you could also try swapping the housing from another stab
it looks like your spacebar is tilting to the left
that is most likely why
when pressing anywhere on your spacebar all sides should go down evenly
Yeah it only goes down on the side I press, I might pick up a new set of stabilizers and perhaps that should fix it?
does it go down on the right side?
Yep
have you tried another space bar
Must be stabs that are messed up, no issues with the switch and I'm using the stock wooting spacebar as the 6.25u one I got with my keycap set dosent even fit for some reason
Yea I thought this was normal with only the side I push going down haha
First proper keyboard only even used some cheapo ones before this so don't really know any different
if u want new stabilizers I suggest tx ap stabs
Yeah they were the ones I was planning on ^
I'll reckon Igive them I shot and see if that fixes it, worse case it won't but I'll have some nice stabs atleast haha
My keycaps came in from drop !
congrats! how do you think of them?
Nice. Audio Technica's Air band is so comfy
In before someone buys the next Wooting and farms the switches just to put in the 60HE
Presuming it's next gen Lekker's with some improvements
huh
huh
huh
its funny how we have the same conversation every other day xD
honestly, im waiting for some better he switches to come out and spring swap them
I was just imagining someone buying the new Wooting and using those switches for the 60HE. If they were nicer sounding and can't be bought separately, if that makes sense
i am confused
huh
I think the stock wooting caps may have sounded a little deeper.. but it’s not too noticeable. Hopefully when my gateron switches come in that’ll make the biggest difference
could i burger mount my keyboard with braces rubber bands or would i need to buy specific o rings that would fit
You are going to be excited
specific o rings
rubber bands and orings are 2 different things
Whatever it is hopefully it's great out of the box. Modding can take a back seat for a while
Oh then you're going to be stoked.
Any good keycap recommendations
Does anyone have the frog mini plate file for 60he?
I might just end up stealing the polyfill from an old stuffed doll 
I dont wanna buy a big bag of polyfill I'll never use ever again
Where can I find them?
So Tirade...you know the layout? 😮
Of course, which is how I know you guys will love it. Can't say more than that but stay tuned!
Us normies have to wait 8 more days 😔
It'll be worth it
I'm new to modding, and I bought a wooting 60he. I wanted to get a drop carina case but I'm not sure about the compatability. how can I figure out if it will work or not
#996573707235491950 message pretty sure its this
Carina spec says it's a tray mount so it should be compatible with the 60HE
ty
mm can u send me the link to that one? i can only find ones that are out of stock
That was from a review of the board
ah
Anyone know if there are any third parties that sell springs for the wooting 60he? I’m looking for an actuation force in between L45 and L60. Ideally start force of 40g with an end force of 50-55g.
wooting is selling spring packs soon
Yo can someone please recommend me some stabilizers? I’m using the durock ones, the problem is there is a rattle with the enter key, like no matter what
There's no meaningful difference between plate mounted stabs
I’m not even exaggerating, I bought the stabilizers twice, switched the keycap (helped a little bit), changed the switch about 20 times, unlubed and relubed the stems and housing and wire, no change
Yeah but the durock ones are either terrible or my pcb is broken
Because there’s no way my enter key should still rattle, I’ve done pretty much everything except a bandaid mod
Are all enter keys like this?
what keycaps should i get i have a red allumaze case
And how did you manage to make your Alumaze case red? 👀
that's just how lekker is
Modding doesn't mean you can automatically make a lekker switch as tight as a good custom keyboard switch - it's why people recommend not changing stabs from the stock ones, it doesn't really gain you anything if your problem is the switch tolerances itself
I get that, but it’s just an issue with the enter key
It doesn’t do it on the other stabilizers
What if I just got different switches? Does it mess with the wooting or no
throw some more lube into it then, but that's all you can do (and if you overlube it'll become sticky)
Oh yeah the lekkers have like magnets right
honestly i don't even know what we're supposed to be seeing in your video too
it looks like any other enter key on any other wooting
if you really care this much about rattly sound you should get raptors and do the stem swap (or potentially the new gaterons but we don't know how those perform yet)
What are raptors?
search this channel for 'raptor' and you'll see plenty of explanations
it's just a different switch
in my past, durock plate mouny stem is tight
bearlt impossible to pull out keycap
I’d seen the list of upcoming springs. However there isn’t one that’s in between L45 and L60
Do the Raptor HE springs work in the wooting lekker switches?
Yes it does
Great. Just gotta find out whether I can buy the Raptor he springs
🦖
is there a chance im just underlubing
i see people lubing the stems but barely
and for the wire, should i lube it a lot before i insert it
also is there a better way to unlube the stabs? it takes a long time using a papertowel and i still cant get all of it off, which might be another issue
I'm still confused at what you're trying to fix with your enter key, there was nothing weird in the video
theres a slight rattle noise
video doesnt really pick it up, but in person its very noticeable
also feels weird
the same sound as your non stab keys?
no
theres no way im tripping either
last time, the issue was that it sounded loud on one side
i fixed it by getting new stabs and lubing them properly
but the enter key always feels and sounds either rattly or mushy, depending on what switch i use
by switch i mean just taking out one of the other switches on the kb
it's a thinner key than your space/shift/backspace so it's not going to be the same
and i noticed that when i changed the enter stab and switch with the backspace, the sound was still the same in that area
makes sense, i could be trippin
if you look at your enter key it's super short and smaller compared to your other stab keys
it's never going to be the same
Que?
It's the same as a shift key.
Stabilizer is the same size as every other one on the keyboard save for spacebar.
different height isn't it?
yeah but he's comparing to other row keys and saying it doesn't sound right
The difference in the curvature is not huge. It's a slight angle change 😄
other stabs are r4, r5 and r1 and the keycap themselves are different as well in thickness
like backspace is one of the chunky ones being r1
well thickness is a bad way to say, more like chunky i guess would be the word since the actual wall thickness is the same
U mean height????
longer keycap = more mass = low freuncy sound
Well ofc enter doesnt sounf the same
More room in keycap (taller vs shorter keys) = more resonate = deep sound
yeah height and internal structure of them. Enter key is one of the lowest/smallest
which is why i'm confused at why he's so focused on his enter key which sounds perfectly fine
= less deep sound
pov enthusiasts with ocd
Just get xda
even then keycap size changes sound
No I literally have ocd fr
It’s so annoying
Cause like a slight sound will cheese me out and I’ll hear it forever
Anyways I went back and lubed the wire like way more, sounds and feels better
Only thing is there a slight rattle on the left, like u can’t notice it in the video, might just have to live with it
And I’m never actually spamming enter so it’s fine lol
Get a syringe with stab lube
Then you just syringe in a tiny bit of lube into the housing without needing to take apart stabs
Krytox XHT-BDZ Lubricant is a very-high viscosity, thick lubricant that is primarily utilized for keyboard stabilizers to significantly reduce the rattle of your stem. This is done by applying the XHT-BDZg1.5 to the stabilizer wire. Note that it is not recommended to apply the lubricant to the stabilizer housing. Kryto
if you are in EU I woud recommend this
I’m in Canada any recommendations for which one to get
What about for Canada
/NA

I mean you can get xht bdz from an NA vendor (canada is kinda bad atm in regards to vendors) and a syringe
that stuff is a bit hard to handle though
viscosity isn't far from butter 
nah 205g0 isn't viscous enough
But that’s what I’m using for all the other stabs/switches
Syringes make touch ups on your stabilizer tune quick and easy without requiring you to disassemble your keyboard. Now you can get one without the hassle and mess of trying to fill it up yourself. Syringe is a 3ml capacity syringe with an 18ga blunt tip luer lock needle 3g is approx 1.5ml
yea it's good for switches
but not ideal for stabs
Really? I thought everyone uses that for stabs
For the wire it’s different obv
a lot of people do
yea it's fine for the plastic on plastic contact
but I would just do that with the stab fully assembled
just go in there with a brush
So ur saying I dont need the syringe
go on amazon.ca and buy some dielectric/krytox (amazon krytox is fake tho) and a curved syringe
- clip stems (I use cherry stabs)
- balance wires (if required)
- assemble stabs
- put them on the PCB
- squeeze in xht BDZ on top of the wire in the stab housing from both ends
- add 205g0 with a brush on the sides of the stab stem
what i do is i wrap ends of the wire in tape, insert into lightly lubed housing, and stem is also lightly lubed. if there is still tick/rattle i just take a syringe and squeeze krytox into the wire hole
imo 205g0 is too liquid for wires
subjective
stabs with tight tolerances should use 205
cherry stabs and other loose stabs like durocks should use dielectric or bdz
no stab has tight tolerances
do you are have stupid
no
staebies and tx ap
don't have tight tolerances
bruh
for tight tolerances you would need a curved wire
I’m using durock stabs
which nobody does
For the wire I use the shit that comes with the wooting
Idk the name but it’s wire grease
the bdz is for the wire lol
yes

Yo so should I get the syringe I sent or no
just don't dunk it in
ehhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
no. You linked non wire lube, you want wire lube in the syringe
bdz is much thicker than 205
So what is that syringe used for
so that instead of taking apart your whole keyboard to lube the wires you just take a syringe with bdz or similar and squirt a little in, move it around and you're good
and it makes it easy to add more if you put in too little
And I can’t get that one because it’s 205g0 and I need the one for the wire right?
yes you want one with some sort of stab lube inside and not 205g0, but you can also just buy a syringe with the attachment separately
and fill it with lube yourself
What’s the one I sent for though
because some people want 205g0 and syringe is easy to dispense
Ahh okay I see thanks
yea bud dielectric is messy
and is much more likely to need reapplying
If I get a syringe with bdz, do I have to make sure it’s like the same one I’m using on the wires currently?
ideally you'd use the same, although some people mix because they're lazy
bdz is way thicker than most other lubes
Would it make a massive difference mixing in two different ones
just wipe them off
well if you're this ocd i would clean off your stabs first
you should anyways
Brooo it takes a minute and u can’t even get it all off
then slowly syringe in bdz bit by bit until you're happy
just wipe it with a piece of paper
and alcohol
Okay I’ll prolly just do that tbh
yea needs quite a bit of pressure
So I should just wipe the housing stem and wire off right?
ujst make sure to not overlube
try rinsing the stems
Should I handlube the wire before I use the syringe
you can do either, put a bit on with brush then add more later or just add more later, people do it both ways
Also for the housing, should I put enough lube so that i can see it or should it just be a glare
What y’all think ab this
never used it, got no reason to switch myself
Is the grease that the wooting gives u bad?
idk
personally have not used it
don't have a 60he yet
should get my module next month 
i mean theirs is fine, not as thick as bdz so you'd use a bit more
prob makes it a bit more foolproof
with bdz you can overlube more easily
you really don't need much
Damn is it worth it to cop
It takes a minute to deliver
But I mean if it completely eliminates the rattle then it’s worth
Does it?
Geon said they can
You absolutely can
That quote was in reference to a HE board, not all hotswap boards in general. There are currently no HE boards available with multi spacebar options.
Yea because nobody even thought of supporting 7u
Technically the genesis tkl does multiple spacebar options
geon said they can in HE
It's not rocket science.
You put in two sensors, two switches and put them on the same keybind.
Want optional split, and you do three sensors, and either two switches or just one. Throw in some sensor average.
i never said it is rocket science tho
I never said you did.
My point is - It's not a technical challenge. It's one of want.
ok next tkl , 75 and update 60%
plewse do hotswap 7u
but offer 6.25u layout keycap as default
prevuilt keycap*
Yea essentially
FELLAS
polyfill has be harvested
(yes I mean harvested, I stole it from an old puppet)
I was thinking about pulling some from an a pillow.
that'll probably work
lmao
but depends on the pillow because it might be a little too dense
and might fall apart more meaning more of a mess
Sometimes I'm too dense
I have a big ol bag of polyfill in my closet I got for like 5 dollars
same, but remove the sometimes
SC
exactly why I didnt wanna buy polyfill lmao
I'd have so much I'll never use ever
unless I make another keyboard
I was about to say
you say that until you build another
or another
and then ur glad you have it
but I got so much polyfill from that one puppet I could fill the entire case or maybe even more, im sure I have enough for at least 2 more builds
oh yeah
tbh I dont think I'll be building another keeb anytime soon tho, I'm going all out on my wooting since it'll be my main board for quite a while. I was never really into keebs before I joined this server, now I just wanna make this wooting sound amazing and leave the hobby before I go bankrupt.
the last change I'll make will be once more switches come out and I'll pick the one I like most
maybe every now and then I'll buy some new switches if I like how they sound, but im sticking with lekkers for now
its too late
you're going bankrupt
my wallet will cry
youll make more
I cant!
this is my "endgame"
and then there is another
and another
this will satisfy ur quinch for awhile and then youll get that keyboard bug again
i want another keyboard for typing
the lack of arrow keys, home, and end is really bothering me
so i was thinking of building another one..
my keyboard right now is a 75% and I'm pretty much making it into a work keyboard once my wooting module comes
did u build it
- if ur making a build for typing you can play around with tactiles if you havent before
yes
i tried brown switches and i wanted to kill my keyboard every time i used it, so ill stick to linear
i used red all my life
browns are the worst tactile to ever be done
on a 100% mechanical keyboard but that one went to hell because i didnt maintain it
maybe the worst switch
so you might like others, saying you've used browns isnt very fair to other tactiles lol
but now its not practical
i was thinking of getting silent switches
like akko fairy
oh yeah
rn I got a monsgeek m1, with alpaca v2s, durlok alpaca edition stabs, pc plate, and poly fill
force break and tape mod too
and I got gmk blue samurais on it
hmmm
im new to this
so i dont understand that much
pc plate is polycarbonate plate for more deeper sound, i know that
pretty much a smooth linear switch in a 75% case with sound dampening mods
polyfill is polyester thing that also mutes sound..,
then idk the rest
tape mod about the same too
i want dampness too
yeah!
is this all i need? i read somewhere that akko fairy doesnt need hand lube
I got the Wooting60HE, the Wooting Module, and I'm gonna get the Wooting TKL
Gonna get a Wooting tattoo on my left butt cheek too
They've updated their factory lube so it's better or at least the L60 and L45 are in-line now
I hand lube all switches personally
Unless you don't have time or lazy
If you're the kind of person who asks "do I need to lube?", then you need to lube and and all switches.
Cause no amount of factory application will ever match doing it by hand.
Haha exactly
Just buy the whole market man xd
Donate me a wooting60he+ pcb only while ur at it 😂
Jk (͡°͜ʖ͡°)
or theres the other side of the people that ask that question where they hear lekkers sound bad but are too lazy to hand lube and want to see if they could get away with not hand lubing them
Everything except a full size
Don’t want a butcher block sized keyboard on my desk
Lmao
Nah wooting 2he users should just chop the num pad off to get their first look into wooting tkl
Lel
Got my kiddo a new gaming PC for Christmas, some of these pre-built systems are nice for the money!
Very nice, that's awesome
I got a crazy good black friday deal and it's solid. Love that tech prices are coming down a little
That's really good, and yeah the PC world has been pretty expensive lately
W pops
What are deh specs
For $700, that's pretty decent
Fr
I was going to just build her one but it was cheaper than building one myself at that price
Plus I can probably sell the Nvidia 2080 in her old machine for a few hundred bucks still
:0
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/RyFHqR Just helped a friend build this one
Part List - Intel Core i5-12600KF, GeForce RTX 3080 10GB
Budget was $1k
and got an $80 case with it
And a $0 Windows key 😉
lmao yep
I ordered the following
Then got the wooting keyboard and final mouse ultralight x - 1st gaming computer in 13 years
ik you already bought it but you can get windows for cheaper
oh this is a build nvm
dope build tho
Nice build, but the pricing is the reason I don’t like pre builds
Could save a lot of money
For example that motherboard your paying $450 for is half the price now
Basically making you pay as if those parts were brand new on release
These tactile switches a pretty nice stock
Part List - AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D, GeForce RTX 4070 Ti, Lian Li LANCOOL 216 ATX Mid Tower
Don't wanna be that guy but I made an upgraded version of your build
for $1500 cheaper
Could buy a 4090 with that money
(Better CPU, RAM, GPU, PSU)
Can also get windows for like $25
building a custom opens you to sales, bundles, deals, etc
instead of $160
Yeah and I didn't realize he also has a $270 discount on that prebuilt meaning it's almost a $4000 PC and I just built a better one for $2000 in PCPartPicker
These are CAD prices
meanwhile on ebay with their 3$ keys
so 2,634.27 USD
Lol that's better but still
I pretty much did the same build for my buddy and his brother
Very nice
just 4070 instead of ti, 750 watt, and difference case, and it came out to like 1500 each
if you take out the 4070 you could build one for under 2k
yeah
I just did small upgrades to what he had on the pre built
hell you could build one for under 1k if you do it just right
pretty darn good stock
Part List - Intel Core i5-12600KF, GeForce RTX 3080 10GB
This is a 1k build I did recently for a friend
my pre-built was on sale for $1000
was 1.6k
got it as a bday gift or christmas present from my dad
Yeah I just don't like seeing people spend butt loads on PC parts if they can get them cheaper or something better
thats a good price but it doesnt include the case. I got a build that I really wanna get for under 1k including a case on newegg.
Yeah I couldn't get the case to pop up on PartPicker for some reason
It's an $80 case
but yeah you could go even cheaper
you could get it around 200 cheaper if you get a 3060 or 3070 on sale
oo smool
yeah that was a Used 3080 FE off Ebay for just under $400
oh damn
Q is lubed W is stock
lube definitely helps
Lube is better
but stock is pretty good tbh
wait is that another gmk67?!
What switches are these? Sound great
sounds like a long pole?
yes
MMD princess switches from aliexpress (tactile)
That's not on a wooting tho right?
no its not
thats why it sounds good
Ye thought so 😅
its not wootings fault tho just he is way behind mechanical switches
OO WEE HE THICC
Board: TG67 v3 by Kinetic Labs (https://kineticlabs.com/keyboards/kinetic/tg67-v2-hot-swap-mechanical-keyboard-kit)
Keycaps: PBTFans Cookies n Creme
Switches: HMX Cheese Switches (stock: https://keybay.tech/products/cheese-switch-43g-linear)
No foam
Cable: The Cable She Tells You Not to Worry About by Space Cables
I built this...
that switch spooked me
- all that for it to sound like clicky switches
its not about the size but about the motion of the switch
LMAO
Is the site working for people today?
I know it wasn’t yesterday
yeh its working for me
Yeah its working for me now
wonder how they are going to sound
I Assume some of the peeps that have orderd it will receive it next week
yeh intregued
What's new in the wooting modding world?
Last update for my 60 he
Does it matter what Keycaps i use for the Wooting 60 he?
i mean in what sense?
for your feel yes, for sound somewhat, for performance no?
Does anyone know where i can get a set of pbt blanks?
does it effect the performance if i use the keycaps from my old keyboard? @obsidian dagger
no
doesnt affect performance at all
all you need to know for keycaps is just compatibility and what profile/shape suits you
need mx type keycaps (ones with cross for the switch stem)
not the ones for like membrane keyboards
ok good to know
Ranked keycaps on Amazon for blank pbt
where can i get custom key straps?
@yuwunahhh how do you like them? Have some ordered, planning on doing the Lekker 45 stem/spring and Geon housing frankenswitch
i kept them stock just lube with 205 and 105 but maybe try switching the housing too
the sound is more deep than 60/45 or gateron he, but the top housing is red so no more accurate rgb
That's what I was hoping for, I have seen people say that stem wobble is essentially eliminated with Lekker stem and Geon housing, but that the sound was more like a usual custom board. I don't use RGB so that's a non issue for me thankfully
Thanks!
also u need to move your actuation about .2 higher since the raptors are stronger magnet as @glacial wind state
This is raptors with Lekker stem
I'm gonna try it whith the raptor remaining
This is stock raptors
And yeah they honestly sound pretty much the same to me, they just feel different cause it’s tighter with the lekker stem
Made a clacky build

yessssssssssssssssssssssssssss
guys..im in love with clacky tactile builds now...
Clacky is the waveeeeee
Mx blacks with Alu plate classic chefs kiss
I want the alexoto's kit lilith build
but with tactile switches instead
cuz I love the feeling and sound
sadly will be giving away this keyboard to a friend tho 😔
.
do you guys have a way to not use screws for the plate and pcb?
i tried but the keys become inconsistent
is there any gasket performance?
Aliexpress 😉
Tactile clacky builds r so… satisfying
Gotta fix my stabs tho I didnt mod them
they suck rn
between plate and the pcd, not to the case
my gummy o ring is on the way, right now i just let the pcb sit in the case with just cotton and tape beneath
not the sound, the contact of key press
i think because now below the case with the cotton i have on there the press is some what soft, so some key doesnt function properly
that seems unlikely tbh, if im not wrong what matters is the distance between the plate and the pcb
what is below the case?
wait i meant below the pcb
mb
yea i think when i press, the pcb flexes and bent a bit, but the plate itself doesnt bent, the contact is no good especially for esc key on the top left
well, if you have the pcb properly screwed to the case* there shouldn't really be much flex?
yea i was asking if people have a method to get away with screwing the plate with pcb
is the cotton in your case causing flex on your pcb?
no flex is caused by not having the screws, i was trying to see if i can have it be functional without the screws, because screws and tightness make the keyboard sound worse imo
i am confused
??????? If you screw your pcb to your case of course it s not gonna move
You literallt secured it to something solid
for normal keyboards that is typically what i do to get away with some of that stiffness, but i guess analog keyboard cant work with that
you have the answer to your question
wooting can be o ringed
i was hoping to see if people have a way to not use the screws between the pcb and plate and have the board be functional
Gummy o ring mount
ehh
plate*
?
basically u know the module
yea gave it a try
yep
he wants to not use screws
Pc plate wont make your keyboard flex if its tray mount
i dont think u should mess with that as it will cause even more inconsistency
OH THE PCB TO PLATE
yeah
ah tape, xD
use something that isnt toxic to your pcb to attempt it i guess
cause plate is not touching the pcb
If the switches sit well then they should keep the pcb and plate loosely secured
painters tape i think is fine
you have to tightly secure the middle of your pcb and plate so well to not have inconsistencies
the holy tape mod has been there for a while
You can use thick double sided tape and removd bits of plate foam and replace it with the tape
basically what keybored did to his womier
not with wooting, no pin
no plate foam?? just use the tape xD
wait
maybe worth a try but i dont trust it ngl
arent you worried about the inconsistency it will cause on the lekker switches?
suggest watch his video
cause i tried just having the switches loosely secured the plate as you mentioned
but it falls apart pretty easily
what does that mean
so just no screws, let the switches kinda keep the plate and pcb together
works with normal 5pin swithces
remember that there are 8 screws to keep the pcb and plate properly secured together
I just checked that video, keybored is so goated
but nah man this pcb way too expensive for me to mess it up like that
LMAO
it is to keep the distance between the plate and pcb as consistent as possible throughout the board, in which my point being you are unlikely to get such precise with consistency with alternatives like double sided foam tape as well as tape
yea i agree
and on the problem of you experiencing inconsistency, is it because ur pcb is squished up against the cotton in the case which causes the flex?
the inconsistency is caused me trying to not use the screws, which like you said caused problem
ahh
arriving tmr, cant wait :3
shouldve brought the module version, didnt see it when i brought the 60he, screw-in is superior 😦
Tx ap platemounts exist
i brought owlab ones from divinikey, was thinking just to use its wire
then if the mount is wobbly just tape the plate to make it tighter
buying stabs just for their wires is weird lol
but not as elegant as screw in
Unless ur also using their other parts
idk i dont trust wires from other companies i guess
advantage of platemounts is no need to disassemble to tune
?????
just balance them
me have skill issue
Tx ap, chery, c3, durocks best wires
:V
i havent tried though tbh
i saw one keybored videos he said he has good experience with owlab then i started using them, and they are pretty good from my experience too
owlab stabs good
i used to use ptfe tape to adjust the wire, but that is not as good compare to just using good wires
Can always use bandaids instead
same issue
wrap ends of wire, and put below wire on pcb
good wire with lube always the best
with bandaids or ptfe essentially you cant press the key all the way down anymore
because they just block it a tiny bit
is there a noticable difference between, hand lube vs factory lubbe lekker switches?
Yes.
Yes definitely
and its good to just go over the fac lube? or Do i gotta wipe it
You don't need to wipe it
Thanks bud 😄
Is that a salvation case
You can try asking Tirade about tray mount-less plates.
He's pretty much the authority here.
FUCCKKKKKKKKK those keycaps
Is this a hall effect board
honestly i wanna change my wooting case and keycaps to make it kinda purple themed but like is it THAT worth it to pay 160 euros ontop of the 180 euros of the wooting to get a keyboard i wont hear cuz i play with headphones all day
Cases are primarily aesthetic.
yeah
If you want to do it then it’s worth it for you, just make sure that you can budget it properly
cases change the way your board sounds too though
yeah i wanted to change the case to make a purle/red themed setup with a red mouse etc etc
im probably gonna do it anyway but probably at a later time
i need to focus to upgrade my core setup first
like better graphics card mouse and keyboard before making it look cool
after allat changed i'm gonna get a tofu60 redux and some purple keycaps nice normal and easy
i am excited keycaps come soon
For the Raptor HE Is the operating force the same thing as start force? Curious whether there’s a possibility of start force being lighter than the operating force of 42g
holy backspace
sounds solid. It's interesting it's not thock or clack but something in between
at least it sounds like it doesn't have the chatter sound like gen 1 gaterons
Sounds good damn
The chatter is my biggest gripe.. he also has an FR4 plate in his. With a PC plate it should deepen it a little more as well
Honestly I’d be down to just go fr4 plus super clacky he switches if one day we have a clacky option. Just embrace the full clack
CF would be better for clacky
yeah either of them I'd be down to do
I want that nice clacky sound profile that alexotos gets
get frog mini with custom carbon fiber no foam
Not the best sound test but hey
Love the echo off the wood desk
Plus they’re using an aviator connector, can’t trust them
do we know if this is lubed
they sounded pretty decent stockl
tuned is better but still stock wasnt bad
The ticking ticked me off so I tuned them
pun intended
thats pretty darn thocky for a 60%
from this info about the magnetic jades can anyone figure out if it will mess with the wooting actuation like if the magnetic is stronger or weaker
also is the bottom out force 37g?
It’s alright compared to other rt boards. Not great compared to actual thocky custom 60% though - but it’s an improvement for sure
its .2-3.5 so you dont get the .1-4 but the difference wouldn't be noticable imo
yea idk anyone who uses .1 anyways
idk I find it pretty hard to even get custom 60% that thocky especially in a tofu
and thats with an fr4 plate and we dont if they are lubed
I’ll have my Jades by this week or next and send a better sound test
It’s the switch honestly. You have to start with a very thocky switch
the guy who did the sound test made a reddit post and that is factory lube
Nice yeah curious jade vs raptor
The baseline sound for he switches is just not thocky so you’re constantly trying to push it there with tape and other stuff
the stem magnet is covered so its probabaly not recommended?
i dont get less travel distance
you would have fewer range to play with
isnt that consider inferior to 4.0mm?
but probably depend on usage
whatchu mean
Less travel distance isn’t bad if you don’t use the full distance anyway
Unless you specifically needed to set 4.0 for some reason
probably driving game
i saw people want long pole too lol
do they mean long magnet? 
long magnet lol
That’d be interesting actually for someone to somehow incorporate a long pole design into he magnet stem
i could already see people modding magnet
Oh that's cool, still one of the better designed cases out there imo, the folded lip at the front is a nice touch. Just wish it was a bit heavier
Factory lubed
He talks about it here more
if i were to design a custom case for my wooting module, what do u guys think would be the best mounting method
any cheap aluminum case for my wooting?
tofu redux
is that not the cheapest alu case compatible with wooting
It's like 20$ cheaper than wootings aluminum for me
Pretty sure there are other chinesium ones that are cheaper
Don't remember the names
its like 50$ cheaper for me
Poseidon?
Tofu without weight is quite a bit cheaper than alumaze
With weight it's like 20$ less for me
- i need to pay import and duty fees on tofu
Tofu without weight and with shipping ist about 80$
yea they have 25 dollar shipping to us
its a little over a 100 with weight and shipping
to the us at least
at that price point its not worth it
They have discount codes right now
i lowkey wanna get a frog mini but they dont have black cases anymore plus i would have to get a custom plate made
i dont own alumaze but in my opinion looks wise the tofu beats it
and it weighs more
but its all up to preference
Only thing I dislike about the alumaze is the insert
I wish they had color options for it
And removing it just leaves an ugly gap
i have gripes about basically any of the cases that work with the wooting
I think the strap instantly makes the alumaze my only choice for cases though
thats why i kinda want to make my own case
I love the look of the strap
Tofu should only be 50usd. It's not even that good and reminds me of a door stopper imo
Yeah tofu is way overpriced for me
20$ more I can get alumaze
Which is higher quality, looks better, and has the strap
Mine has none 
Stock is nice though
Other than the strap my 60he is still basic
im glad there r more options coming out in terms of switches so we can make it sound more like a custom
Want an alumaze but don't have 200$ to waste rn
Also want to waste money on a ulx soo....

Decisions decisions
i want a ulx so bad
I'm waiting a few months still for QC to get better
What's so special about the ulx?
i like the gold accent color too
Other than that it's not special
itll match my keycaps
True. I'm just glad I don't agonize over mine though, still, I might try another switch in 12 months time
and im so sick of using razer software
Only thing I'm worried about ulx is the width
My lamzu is wider, but still feels skinny for me
So idk how well I'd like shape
Wouldn't wanna spend 270$ cad and not like it
I see, I see. I just boujght the Beast X. It's great but high polling rate battery life is like sucking the life out of a Boba Tea
Ulx large is a bit skinnier than id like
But I haven't used it so can't quite say for sure
I mostly use 2khz for extra battery
A lot of games struggle with 4k polling still anyway
2k polling much more stable
yea its unneccesary 99% of the time
I wanna find someone with similar sized hands to me to ask how they like ulx
Haven't found them yet though
I'm chillin' on 1k hz until I get a 240hz monitor
Get xg2431, unless you want 1440p
i have a 144 hz and i probably wont upgrade until i upgrade my pc
Finally got my Lindy x LEMO
I'm on 240@1080p
1440p made a world of difference to me
1440p ain't worth going back to 144hz for me
Maybe when 240@1440 is more affordable
I switch to it
my next moniter will prob be the 4k 240hz oleds coming out next year
but i will have to wait a lonf time
for those to come down
My PC wouldn't even be able to run 1440@240
in price
So idk if I'll get it
6900xt 5800x3d already struggles with 1080@240 on games like cod lol
I'm on 120hz 42" 4K. My eyes are the size of golf balls and I really need a deeper desk

i still have a 3600x and im wondering if i should switch to 5800x and “max out” the am4 platform
It's worth it
or if i should just wait and get a 7800x later
1000%
bc am5 is the future
Well, depends
Nice dude. Love me some Lemo but I definitely got the wrong color, or maybe I'm just tired of it lel
I didn't wanna spend the money for a new mobo, so 5800x3d was the only sensible option
but upgrading to 5800x3d is much cheaper then buying a new mobo, ram and 7800x3d
thats what im thinking
Yeah that's exactly the boat I was in
and it still performs well



you are so smart