#🤩│wooting60hev2
1 messages · Page 15 of 1
Played through TBC and Wrath as a healer druid for raids.
Then didn't come back seriously till...Legion I think and then stopped again in the expansion after. The one with Kul Tiras
btw i was just double checking and there is a hole for you to ground through the friction fit pad
You want to use this hole
@worldly imp use this hole
I read this out loud while in comms with a group for FFXIV. Dude.
Thank you though! I will try it out either later tonight or tomorrow when I'm not using the keyboard :p
Is there a difference between the Lekker switches that come stock with the v2 and the switches from the founders' campaign?
Yes. The founder ones are limited, 100g ones.
You can make more yourself using our spring packs and tools.
Or a different weight entirely.
I'm not that deep into that topic. I might switch a few around to get a feel 😅
Are you all hand lubing the v2? I always do but these are very nice out of the box. Going to take apart again to fix a little noise on one of the space bar stabs and wondering if I lube the switches at the same time or just run them as they are. Anyone done so and feel it was noticeablely better?
My coworker must have this issue too - he did order both the pre built full board and the blue alumaze case
I was out sick yesterday when they were delivered, but he sent me a pic of it in the Alumaze. It’s his first build so I doubt he realizes there’s an issue at all, but I’ll check when I get in.
Since mine’s friction mounted in the optimum case, i can just give him the sandwich mount pieces that came with my module if he’d rather screw it in, yeah?
Just tell them to install the screw on the top right, no need to swap the sandwich pad.
Maybe I’m not understanding the issue at all then (I don’t have an Alumaze) but I’ll make sure he’s got it put together in a reasonable way - thanks
Module doesn't make metal contact with the case for grounding when friction fit.
So you screw it in to achieve that. Prevent getting zapped.
my bros keyboard said it was gonna arrive 3 days ago and its still not here
I understand the point of grounding; I was referring to that conversation earlier between Vee and Jed about 8 hours ago about swapping pre-built 60HE v2 into the Alumaze
I’m sure it’s my misunderstanding somewhere though bc bought a different configuration
Hey, do anyone know why is this happening ? The stab from backspace is sticky, remaining stuck sometimes and i need to wiggle it.
I just received it, put the module in,switches,keycaps and plug it in.
How do i solve this issue ?
Friction fit pad
Look above your backspace key, it's not inserted correctly
Reseat your module into the case and make sure the friction fit is aligned nicely
no bueno
Thanks, i will try it
The prebuilt 60HEv2 doesn't come with an alternative sandwich piece to make it non friction fit, the module does.
So the conversation was about what to do
Right, so if he wants to use those pieces, I can just give him the ones I’m not using that came with my module?
Since mine’s using the friction fit in the optimum?
Conclusion was that the silicone pad that the friction fit piece has, has a hole for screwing through to ground it.
But yeah. Your solution also works.
Idk which he prefers but I figured it’s easier than asking for more parts if he wants them
Thanks a bunch for helping me understand
@autumn timber one more question.. i did remove the screws and wiggle it a bit, now seems everything is fine (thank you veruly much for that) , do i need to remove the switches and everything to be able to open the module or it doesn't matter ?
Seems like i can not pull it aparat now
If you want to take the module apart, you do need to remove keycaps, switches and screws yes
Removing switches and keycaps isn't necessary. Just remove stabilizer keycaps and 8 screws on the back of the PCB
But that's not taking it apart tho 🙁
Oh wait I'm dumb, you just want to separate PCB and plate
Ok yeah shafie is correct
Good, thanks. Yes i wanted to make sure everything sits fine now, but didn't want to remove everything again .
You might want to check if the PET film is positioned correctly on the PCB and if there's some lube leaked on it, can cause the stabilizer sticking. You'll need to remove the stabilizers for this though.
Everything seems fine now, as long as it's not bothering me anymore with that sticky keys i think i will leave it like it is.(too tired to rmv everything again 😂)
Yeah, seems good now.
bro got a gpu on the keycap, next level 
need to update that, ram costing more than gpu soon, so it's the more premium keycap computer part
my v2 just came in lets friggin GOO
Just got my HEv2 and i am seeing that the usb-c input is slightly elevated above the case fitting. When i press down on the board it goes down but pops back up again.
anyone who could help me here?
Take the module out, adjust the material in the bottom of the case, press the module in again, is it fixed?
Push it down across the whole board. The friction fit "rubber band" has lifted slightly in shipping.
Just need to go down on all corners to stay.
when i go to push on the bottom corners the board pops up on the higher sides just now
the silicone padding was mounted wrong inside and i have readjusted it to fit now
however, since im already here. i would like to switch the silicone padding for the foam
i cant find it in the packaging though
It's sneakily tucked away in a bit of a cardboard sandwich. Look closely and/or read the words you see, one of them says something like "alternative foam inside"
Ik how you feel. I paid for expedited shipping, ( 2 day ) and ups goes from las vegas to kentucky 💀 ( im in texas )
This worked - but I have some notes.
1st picture, screwed in only the right hole.
2nd picture - USB alignment with only right screw in. Tightness of the screw does not matter. I am no expert (though I did used to work at a hardware-focused startup, so I have more experience than a layman) but the tolerance is a bit concerning.
I was worried this might put unnecessary strain on the boards USB over time.
So, I chose to screw in the other side under the left tab key. 3rd picture is after tightening and loosening it until I was able to align the USB port satisfactorily.
Please consider this when making your tutorial - and further consider the thickness of the alumaze's included foam long-term when used alongside the he v2. It's not a serious concern imho if the user fits both screws, but they do miss out on any benefit or 'floatiness' the friction fit might offer.
Unrelated; wootstation pics now available. https://discord.com/channels/167181566978555904/1451401684352897238
installed my knights v2 into my wooting @lunar minnow
even with the little lube i have left, no rattle yay
nice
what should i use my clear soju novelties for
So weird thing happened with me and the tikkens on the 60HE v2
pfft fuck right shift
right???
right shift unloved
fucking hell
i used the tx ap wire
and this shit is thick as fuck
now the wire stab with it is sluggish as shit
@sullen bear maybe white alphas would work better?
witha blue shift
i need excuses to use more of the clear novelties
i noticed that sometimes when releasing a 1u key, the analog readout on wooting's analog display was reading out as double clicking on release, and it also reflected in geometry dash
I swapped the up arrow from my 80HE and it went away, my guess is because the stem on the 80HE keycap is so worn down and loose, the micro-rattling of the keycap prevents the switch from double inputting on the release
I then remembered that the debounce filter exists, and it's actually the best debouce filter i have ever used, I am able to use the stock new 60HE v2 keys!
maybe its also a result of the firmware still being in beta
this isnt happening on my 80HE curiously with the 60HE v2, then again the 80HE is using Raw HE 50g instead of the tikkens
maybe its also a little to do with the FR4 plate but idk
Does it happen if you swap Tikken with Raw and choose Raw in the switch selector?
for the 60HE v2 PCB?
Yes
50/50 on this
except his switch or someone elses switch sompletely snapped
Should be easy to pull with a good metal switch puller
the paint isnt going to chip is it? i heard reviewers say that
i havent had the paint chip/scratch on my plate using a metal puller tho its coated so 
i use the TX puller
ok
this one
Reviewers or only Squashy boy? His FR4 plate didn't have the final finish and that's why it chipped.
I've heard that puller chips the paint, not sure if it's true or not though
Pullers like Wuque or TX shouldn't damage the paint
we chillin
its in
lets see
im using a 1u switch from the 60HE v2 for this example
1u 80HE super used up arrow vs 1u 60HE v2 /? key
both boards have the RT settings on 0.1 up and down, 0.1 actuation
context: geometry dash
still issues with the new keycap
lemme try the old up arrow
it hates the geon switches more
the tikkens are fine
as long as i have the debounce filter on
but the keycaps i mentioned cause the different with the tikkens and debounce filter off
my guess is because the up arrow is so loose that it micro rattles and dampens the upstroke but i can't be certain
either way, the debounce algorithm is so good i can't feel a difference with it on or off with the old up arrow + tikkens
Can anyone recommend keycaps for v2?
I'
Bru
I'm building a red gmk redline build
Using the split spacebars
with this case
The symbols that are shown on the keys are based on your OS keyboard layout, so make sure that is correct to what you want
I vaguely recall one of the french layouts swapping the regular number row for their shift modifiers on the base layer. Hence my question 😄
Would it be possible to map a button on the uwu to work like a function key or switch profile for the 60he v2? Or would that not be possible because of how the function layers work?
Devices cannot communicate between each other, no.
FN only exists within the device itself.
Yeah that's what I was guessing. Thanks for the quick answer! 🙂
This is a feature request the dev team is aware of though, perhaps now that the background service exists, this functionality can be added 🙂
yeah we've thought about it but it is not a priority at all :p

interesting input related improvements that use background service are coming 

Split is the best way to go on a 60% layout (personal preference after a week of use)
And the tikken switches I love the colour of them so need to find a key cap set to match them lol
pls help it feels impossible to simply remove a switch. I can't seem to get underneath the switch enough to pull it out.
update: I believe I have broken two switches now and still do not understand how to remove these things. I kept pulling out the transparent thing you can pull out on the top of the switch and I think that's how the tiny plastic hook broke off. so that's pretty cool..
It’s the really small hook you’re meant to press down that broke off.
I’ve never had to do that with any other keyboard but ok. Does something lock the switches on the board?
No
u just have to clip it and yank it out
theres a video, either u can just yank it out if u dont decide to use it or u can unscrew it
Always wondered how you can lubricate your lekker switches or grease your stabilizer wire. In this video, we will deep dive on different methods of lubing and some general tips and tricks. Using the Wooting 60HE.
Krytox GPL 205G0 and Molykote EM-50L lubricant:
https://region.wooting.store/products/lubrication-set-krytox-205g0-molykote-em-50l
:...
Are you trying to remove all the switches?
Ok yeah taking the keyboard apart it a lot easier to remove them.
No I just wanted to replace one
And it’s turned into this lol
Oh ya pulling one sucks cause the magnets in the PCB like to hold the switches tighter then a regular mechanical
Got it. That makes sense. Thanks for helping me out guys.
That's... not true at all.
I am amazed at the shit people make up 😄
You should be able to get the puller tool under the switch, even if the little W piece pops out. You can also put it back in.
Yup I was putting the w piece back in
I just never got under the switch at all
Guess it’s just a skill issue moment or something
lol real
My bad, always assumed that cause they are way easier to take out when the plate was separated from the PCB
They're not really. But you can push them out from the back which can be easier and faster.
alright, i am admitting defeat and asking for help.
i got a plate for my 60HE v2 but i cannot seem to get the plate to screw into the PCB, i am using the old screws from the module, as it says in the tutorial, however they just arent long enough to go all the way through. am i missing a standoff or somthing?
imagine having a Wooting Two HE Lekker Edition and stealing those keycaps
the issue being the spacebar
I just received this today hope it’s fine 🥲
I'm not a fan of the white and yellow colours lol, I like the tikken cause they are gray and cyan lol
looks mint condition let me know how the unboxing goes
Yeah I was worried abt the switch box being busted open but all switches look good nothing broken
Kinda sad for the box but I’ll find something to replace it
v2 is so responsive, i thought magnetic keyboard is all the same but i miss this
i love it
looks more mint to me haha
Should i or should i not be using the c to a adapter
dont matter
doesn't matter!
was thinking it would play a factor into the true 8k polling rate but
nah
its just the tachyon mode toggle
I still wanna know the average scan rate of the 60HE v2 when tachyon is disabled compared to the 80HE's 1,600Hz average scan with tachyon off
is there difference in the geon raw peforamce compare to tikken v2
Performance wise no, there's no real performance difference between any of the switches aside from the silent switches
Differences are in sound/feeling and that's personal preference
Thanks so its all just sound and feeling
the actuation point wont matter
okay thank you, that makes sense
Cyan an mint look the same to me lol
cyan to me looks like #00FFFF, lekker theme looks more green to me
i cant tell which is the real one
but theres like both cyan and mint pictures online
prolly the cyan is real tho
the friction fit make changing case easier
With the Wooting friction fit, the keys near the silicone feet sound weird or slightly inconsistent compared to the others. I’m not sure why.
Also many have said that it sounds better w/o the PET film on the pcb (requires disassembling module though)
it made no difference for my personal build
at least in person it didnt, i didnt record it through my pc or phone
What sort of arrow key configurations do ya'll prefer?
kind of regretting the split space-bar setup. Anyone else have it? I think it was too ambitious of a design. My thumb keeps hitting the FN1 middle button when pressing space. I think they should've just had 2 spacebars instead of getting fancy with an additional middle button.
gonna practice learning spacebar with left thumb lol
it's adjustment period for people who use right side of spacebar
takes a couple weeks or so if you're one of the people in that niche
ah ok, so most people use left spacebar for general typing? interesting. I am able to type with right side, but if i'm sitting at a diff angle or something, sometimes my thumb reaches farther and hits the middle button. Just seems less convenient overall. I don't want to learn how to use less space for my thumb (and only in particular seating arrangements). Better off learning left side possibly, will look into it.
I've been using my left thumb for c, v lately trying to increase WPM so maybe I switch to right thumb on b,n instead.
yeah in general a lot of people don't have the perfect ergonomic typing style that uses right side of spacebar, so for a lot of those guys they instantly adapt to split without much effort
it's more of a learning curve for those who learnt to type properly and press spacebar with right thumb for example
I use space bar with right thumb and still love the split.
Right thumb is typing space, left thumb is WASD jump space.
Looking more into it, I gotta stay with right thumb on space, but my thumb definitely catches that gap here and there when typing. I think if they made the spacebars equal sizes (2.5u each instead of 2.75/2.25), it woulda been perfect, but I guess many gamers use the right edge of the left spacebar. Idk
ya i do left thumb for gaming jumping.
Yeah the larger left side was to prioritise gaming usage
Also making them equal sizes would mess with keycap compatibility 
same!
I've gone ahead and ordered my wooting but the orders gone wrong and my keycaps and case aren't included I thought I paid for all of it but I didn't
so I've put it on hold before it's shipped can I add the keycaps and case to if?
There's an option to upgrade an order on the hub. If that doesn't work, you can either cancel the order and place a new one. Or contact support on the hub for help.
I have I just haven't heard back from them yet and I don't want it to get pushed to the next batch order ykwim?
it said that to upgrade it I have to contact support
or am I maybe missing something
You either fix it now and gamble on the batch, or you wait for support to respond back after christmas (most likely)
There is no one, optimal answer here 🙂
To upgrade it is there an option on the website or do I have to contact support?
If the hub won't let you, then support is the only potential option. I can't guarantee that all changes are possible, due to the complexity of taxes.
right okay when I go home I'll try it on the hub because I haven't even tried that option yet
can you provide me with a link or a ss on where I can find that page please
You said you already reached out though?
https://wooting.io/support
Pick the category and issue you need help with, and we'll guide you through the process.
yeah but I didn't know there was an option to upgrade on the hub
I reached out to support straight away instead
The option would be on the order's page on the hub.
okay got it
thank you
I'll have a look in an hour and let you know
so I can just add the case and keycaps?
would it be preassembled then or no
We don't assemble items. You would receive everything in separate product boxes. But it's a case of pushing in things like LEGO in your case.
You can always ask for help here, once you have everything.
You need Module, Case, 70 Switches and Keycaps to build the board.
okay got it I've never built a keyboard before hence why I was a bit nervous but if you put it like that I'm sure it'll be easy
@whole oak I think i reverted it correctly
i am not sure though
How can I check if ive done it correctly
Also do I use the silicone dampening layer or the foam in my case
If it looks like this, before you put the switch plate back and screw it in, it should be good. Black part in the center, silicone friction fit outside.
As for whether to use silicone or the foam for the case - Personal preference. It changes how the keyboard sounds when you type. So you can try one, then swap to the other later. The module can easily be pulled out of the case with the little orange pulling toon in the hole to the right of the spacebar.
yes it looked like that i suppose
I have the switches in so I cant double check
CTRL then FN in the corner.
perfect
It seens to be working
Thank you very very much for your help ❤️ @whole oak

Bad boy arrived
the 2.5u keycap compatibility seemed doable though. Think that's the size of the Enter key and L-Shift.
I still gotta spend as much time possible on the KB before I decide. I love the length of the 60HE, makes my typing center feel much better.
shift is 2.25
So what about the center keycaps then?

It’s right and left shift sizes basically that are 2.25 and 2.75u
Basically nothing is 2.5u unfortunately
ahh I see. yeah you're right, it's 2.25u. That changes the dynamic. 2.5u doesn't exist. So weird.
Then in that case, since most people are right thumb space typists, maybe 2.25 for left and 2.75 for right. Did you guys do in-house testing to see (I'm guessing yes, lol)?
It’s mostly that this one was picked because it carried best to gamers who wasd and rest thumb on space during it
Bigger left thumb made it easier to adjust to split
This guy built a cool new joystick, just found out about it. That left spacebar additional space would help here for that. So good tradeoff I guess.
Wooting v2 split setup 
I turned on Diablo 4, yeah you need that 2.75u spacebar lol. Almost even hitting the right edge too, lolz.
still kind of weird, could've just made both of them longer and not have that function button. But we'll see how it does.
ah nm, no 3u+ keycaps out there except the spacebar, lol.
Love this thing!
sup twin? 
does anyone know how i can possibly bind the spacebars as two different keys, but be recognized as two spacebars when typing, but in games as two different key binds?
it's hard to explain
ideally I wish there would be "spacebar 1" and spacebar 2"
for example, they work as spacebars when typing, but I could bind them to 2 different imputs for 2 player levels in geometry dash
Maybe you can do some register trickery to make another key/function behave like spacebar but not actually the same key as spacebar
ill have to think
I think I just came up with a new advanced key feature
scratch that nvm
where is it? @whole oak
the reason why i dont want to purchase the keycaps and the aluminium case seperately is because its cheaper with the keybaord
i was certain i added it but when i checked it wasnt there, i think i just forgot to add it but id like to add the aluminium case and the keycaps and i have contacted support but they havent gotten back to me yet is there anyway you could add this onto my order
i want to get the keyboard quickly and its on me for not checking it thoroughly before ordering
You are speed running a ban with these @‘s my friend
ty for lmk
Wishing a miracle on Christmas is just normal thing in life 😉
I agree it takes a bit of getting used to
Of course and it’s normal for most of people it’s the first time. It’s not usual
Is there a way to bind for example, F13 to type what spacebar would, without triggering the "spacebar" function?
The way I see it, each key by default is identified as a "keybind", and keybind outputs something. Is this true?
The idea is I want to bind right space to F13, but each time it would activate, it would type out the an empty space, eithout triggering/interfering with the "spacebar" keybind if that makes sense
therefore, 2 keys, type the same key, and act as 2 differekt keys
any vids of the 60hev2 wrist rest out there? it says 13.63 inches in length. Little long for the length of the v2?
I suspect they copy pasta'd from the 80HE rest.
maybe typo on the dimensions on the page
nice, ty!
It's copied from the 80HE page
how is it btw? looks good
It's pretty much the same as the 80HE aside from the hook on the front
ic
Did I mess something up? Why is there a random screw in the middle that has no hole?
Nvm I’m dumb that’s the wrong one
Anyone who has the new wrist rest or even the old one, don't you think the 4 inch width is kind of long? Pushes your keyboard farther into the desk. I think the plus of the new version is that it's more tapered than the old one so maybe you feel that 4'' less.
Most rests out there are like 3'' wide or so.
My friend made an AHK script so the spacebars type out the unicode for the space character, and act/identify as separate keybinds
this is really good, I wish to see this in wootility someday
80HE vs new 60hev2 wrist rest - Seems the 80 actually has a lower starting height, then quickly shoots up into a consistent slope. Whereas the 60 has the same angle from the beginning, but starts a little higher. Wonder why the design change? Is the 60 one better? ;0
They're... different keyboards.
Different preferences. Some like one or other style of slope
I think it's because the cases are just different
The 80 has a dedicated wrist rest for it.
Interesting we’ve had people complain about both versions of the slope saying they like the other version more
So it’s one of those things where it’s just going to come down to the person
Can't please everyone. 
I didnt wanna tag anyone but I have a pretty cool idea for wootility, and it's something that I think would be game changing
thanks
sent
I tried to be as detailed as possible, but im not the greatest at typing my ideas out.
can i use 100% brightness and tachyon mode with the cable that came in the box?
or will something happen?
pulled the trigger on the case and wrist rest. I gotta try it for myself lol.
should be able to, only one way to find out 
Yes.
Well, I was dumb and pulled keycaps while using friction fit and not holding down the module. The module came out top first but it wasn't connected. How dangerous is that, long run?
that happened to me too when change keycap, i just pull the whole module out to change keycap then put it back into board
Well, lesson learned, but it's currently working fine, so no harm done. For now.
screw one of them if u scare
as long as you dont absolutely destroy the usb-c port then its fine
S'all good then! Will not be making that mistake again.
This is beautiful
Those are really nice keycaps
only blue keycap set i like in this server 
I won't tell him 🙊
Glad people like it. Shame that the official version is out of stock or I'd link it.
Its okay link them fren

all jokes aside whos the girl on the desktop matt ? Is it from genshin ?
Yoo, can i friction mount on the Alumaze60
Yes
nvm its a vtuber
how you enjoying the split space bar
I am enjoying it, but now that I know I'm a right spacebar typer I've been struggling to make full use in games where I want to chat
Certainly accessing Fn more easily has been a boon. I plan to try incorporating some more fn layer shortcuts with it, but want to make sure I adjust to the split fully first before I change more up on my old brain.
ahhh I see i was thinking about split space bar but I feel like I would press the middle one to much by mistake since my left thumb usually in the middle of the spacebar or sometimes to the left of it
That right spacebar would never be touched
My left thumb does rest in the middle, but as I thought I've quickly adapted
I see i see
didn't take long
I wish it was one of those things I can test in person before buying to see if I would really enjoy it or not
For sure, c'mon over.
I think smallish changes like that are very much within the realm of things you'll adapt to quickly, but only you'd know if you'd like it or find it useful
i gotta try lubing them as well ngl
i wonder if it makes it better
only one way to find out

hey all, im super new to keyboards -- i've been running a keychron k2 for a while but it has terrible connection issues and overall feels really bad
i want to try building a keyboard, would the 60he v2 be feasible for a beginner?
if so, thoughts on these selections?
If you can build a Lego set, you can build a standard wooting kb.
And that's literally just a diy stock 60he v2
haha yeah i want close-to-stock options to begin with but flexibility to mod in the future
and i just like the idea of putting it together myself (and faster shipping)
but thank you! sounds like it should be easy enough
hmm, so friction fit is worse for pulling out switches? More likely module pops out? So if you want to remove 1 switch for example, you'd have to hold down the other keys while pulling, right? Seems manageable.
Well... duh? 😄
You're asking if pulling out a switch - which is the exact same motion as pulling out the module is counter productive to pulling out the switch?
You obviously need the module flat on a table or similar, if you want to be able to provide opposing pressure to pull the switch.
My Frostlord is apparently still in Oakland but it is supposed to be delivered in the Netherlands tomorrow 
sure, although do keep in mind that plate isn't cut for 60he v2
none of them, you don't need the plate
where the plate didnt get included for some weird reason
so i contacted support ands theyre taking too long so i js gave up and tried ordering it myself and assembkling it myself
unless you specifically want to change plate materials there's no reason to buy the plate
they include it there as an upsell, but it's not required as part of the case
yes
yk for the
case
i would get the weight instead of foam personally, but that's up to you
i wanted to buy the aluminium case fromn wooting but its 80 instead of 50
i did contact support but they wouldnt respond until after christmas
is there a discount code or somehtying you could provide so i can have the case price matched to what itd be if i bought it with the keyboard?
we don't do that as far as I know, but I'm not in the support department so I'm not sure what policies they run there
typically it's much faster to cancel and re-order vs. trying to do order edits which are not always possible depending on the edit
oh if it's iso don't cancel
what does that mean im con fused
that iso module is sold out for awhile iirc, so you don't want to be put into the back of the queue
cancel and re-order would put you back into the queue since it's a sold out item for this batch and awaiting next batch
oh okay
i just want to add the case but its so expensive without the keyboiard
can you help me find an aluminium case which would be perfect for the keyboard?
yeah you'd have to wait for the support to reply to the order edit ticket
Specs Case: Anodized Aluminum, E-coating Aluminum, Brass or Acrylic Weight bar: Brass, surface sandblasted process Structure: Tray-mount Compatible with most 60% PCB, including DZ60 rev3.0/DZ60 RGB-ANSI/DZ60RGB V2/GH60/Wooting 60HE PCB, etc. As seen in our video in the photo gallery! Weight: Aluminum case approximately
i found this
as I said earlier yes that case fits
is this okay
okay and you mentioned something about this
you get an option of internal weight or internal foam filler
you can get the foam if you want to just try it out, but you can only use one at a time basically
oh okay bet
and
the thing witgh this case
is that it doesnt have the
erm yk that wooting tag thing
no grounding, yes
where u can add a tag
and no tag
what does groudning mean
yeah
can you help me find a case which huas grounding and a tag and that is aluminium
please
it means if you want to ground the case electrically you'll need to screw in one screw
no 3rd party cases do grounding right now besides the ones we sell which are v2 aluminium case, owlab and optimum case in our stores
what advantages do i get if i gert the grounding thing you mentioned
it means if you static shock your keyboard it goes through the keyboard correctly, it's just an extra safety measure we do with our cases that 3rd parties don't usually do
ah shoot
i didnt know this beforehand
i did try ordering it witht he case but it didnt come through for some reason im such an idiot for not double checking beforehand
is that something which commonly happens?
not often no, but some people live in drier climates that have shock happen more
so if im from uk would i be safe then
honestly if you want a pre-grounded case then just wait for support ticket and see if they can add case to your order
it was going to take too long so i already released it from hold yhou see
otherwise any of these 3rd party options will require you do the extra screw
so im not sure if theyll still be able to dos oemthing
it just says this
is there anyway i can give you my order number and you can have a look
oh nevermind
i got this email
well there you go
but theres no invoice
did you check your email and spam folder?
that search only searches normal inbox
my spam is empty too
odd, maybe they forgot to attach it to that email
i think so
just reply and ask about it
is there any way i can swap to a split pcb instead
ive been seeing more people in the server talk about it
anyhow i can't do anything to help you directly with the ticket because i'm not support staff. I'm in a completely different department
im beginning to change my mind slowly now
if you swap to split pcb you'll be waiting until next year i think
the line for split iso is sold out for a bit
are the pre installed switches the lekker tikken mediums or the linear 60's?
Tikken
gotcha
is there any point in buying extra switches then?
You bought a module so that doesn't include Tikken switches. You chose geon raw as your switch, there isn't any extra switches on your order other than the 20 novelty heist switches.
of those options tikkens or kom pom, but personally i'd buy tikkens if you're unsure
3rd party switches can always be bought later to try others out
tikkens are basically dirt cheap when buying in module kit, so it's kind of a no brainer to have them as your default, then try out other stuff after
so i should stay with the lekker tekken medium for now
okaybet thank you
@pulsar sierra how many Hall effect switches have you tried out?
none
i have an apex pro tkl and thats the only keybaord i ever used
its a 1st gen too
So how would you know which is better then the other without any reference?
But we’re not you 😅. My preference maybe isn’t the same as you. And the YouTuber taste may be different than yours
performance doesnt come from the switches
Well. I would say. Wooting should be tuning their own switches. Better than a competitor 😌
its from the pcb and how well it handles magnets and its software
Depends on your definition of performance 👀
What kind of performance are you looking for in a keyboard?
After the switch selector they're equally tuned. More switches will be available soon™.
One that makes me a winner 🏆
It is mostly pcb/firmware/software, but the wobble "performance" at the end of the press does matter for rapid trigger performance & how tight the calibration can be without off-center key presses not being observed as a full bottom-out

Stable switches on top 
enjoy the crunchtor v2s 
Are there unstable switches?
use switches with no top housing and find out 
Didn’t knew cabriolet switches was a thing 🤔
I thought it was a feature ( or character) - in the world of perfectionism, sloppy tolerance is bad QC associated with lower production costs. Is it not?
just speed and thats it really
Anyone else have a pair of rough stabilizers? My backspace key is kinda sticky when pressing down.
Give me tips, where on the keyboard is the “ridiculous heavy” switches best to have?
could be improperly seated friction fit that either got pushed weirdly in shipping or installed weirdly
check to see if the top near backspace is caught or sticking weirdly
My baby arrived
On the website there’s only 21% split spacebar keyboard but i saw more split on YTB and everywhere else than normal spacebar
a lot of average joes buy normal because they don't understand split and it's different
you likely see a much higher amount of non average joes online, since they're people who are more into peripherals and new tech
youre making me regret the normal one now
i showed the split to my group of normie gamer rl friends and they all were worried because it looked different and weird
it's not until you use it that most realise it's not that hard to adapt unless you're a specific type of ergo typer normally
i wanted to get it
but i have really weird joints i my hands espically and havea lot of joint issues otherwise i wouldve bought it
i js didnt wanna risk it
i wish there was anoption for it ot be interchangeable
does the switch selector change your switch type or does it stay the same
is this supposed to break while trying to swap switches
its weak so pretty common yes
damn i dont think im gonna be able to do this
i put like 2 hours into trying to replace my w switch cause its lowkey sticking a bit
but like no matter what i do i cant get it off
you can unscrew the plate and push it out
yes
i'll give that a shot
for the price of the keyboard you think they would add a better keycap/switch puller
Personally, for the price of a good keyboard I expect a good keyboard
I believe a better switch puller has been discussed as something that needs to be added. No timeframe for it yet but it’s something the team is very much aware about
what if I told you.....you can have both

I can, I bought both. Capitalism, ho!
Only if you're careless.

Come at me bro, @raw herald

got it replaced thanks
are the default installed switches on the hev2 the same as the 20 pack heist pack ones? cause they feel a lot different
I snapped the tooth off of mine after pulling hundreds of switches.
I've been done pulling dem switches since before the 80HE released, and I have yets to break any of the pullers. I just keep raking up more in storage.

Some kinda savant masochist
This is a crazy noob question but am I missing a cover piece or is the module all white and I just put my switches and keycaps on?
Don’t worry, if you haven’t had anything else to compare to. This keyboard will be the best keyboard you’ll ever experienced 😉.
Ofc, this is only true until you’ve matured enough to be able to formulate your own opinions and preferences 😆
Did I miss an option to make the module black or does it not matter because it’ll be hidden under keycaps? First time building using module sorry for the stupid question lol
Not sure if you can compare an entusiast to a normal person 😅
White = better RGB
Trueeee I didn’t think of that
Okay follow up noob question: was I supposed to take the sticker off the back? The one that says “get to know your module” and points out where everything is
there is no option for a black plate
its a tape mod, some prefer to have it on, some prefer to have it off
just changes sound
What do you prefer snore
for my build, on
Okay I’ll try it on first and if the sound stinks I’ll take it off :) thanks!
I really liked these keycaps but they didn’t come with a split keyboard option 😂 novelty keys arrive tomorrow but until then my keyboard is spaceless 
that one delete key in the middle looks so naked to me its funny
Bro I didn’t have any other options 🤣
I’ll put the Super or Hyper key there when the novelties arrive and I can replace the windows key with something
Or I’ll put a novelty there
I guess I could put the extra right shift on the right side HAHA but I don’t have a good replacement for left spacebar
Phenomenal stuff.
Some slight adjustments to the caps
i think you got hair on that middle spacebar

Forgot my hair net, how embarrassing 
This wouldn't be a problem if you shave
Time to invest in a keyboard chefs hat 🧑🍳
I SEE THE MOONDROP DAWN PRO DAC
NICE DAC
the braiding on that cable plugged into it looks decent too
It's the stock cable from Kiwi Ears Astral

@raw herald what do you think about mine
It's missing the obligatory hair, but I do like your pawprint midspace 🐾
Bro is the hair inspector 😭
First me now him
A regular follicular sniper
Of course I can when people say it's the tool that's bad. 
Hey, ist somebody here experiencing the same issue?
I frequently switch keyboards so i sometimes startup my pc without any keyboard plugged in. When i plug in my 60HEv2 in password screen some keys won't work, especially on the left side of the keyboard. I have to restart while it's plugged in for it to work properly
Looks like it, I think they missed the actual board and just caved in the packaging
I'll have to check tomorrow when I actually open it 

"Sir they hit the second tower"
the cardboard box of mine looked lilke it got into an accident
i think thats just their signature move
thankfully the white box and everything inside was perfectly fine tho
Hey guys, what keycap sets support the split keyboard? Looking into some!
look at #1070668460905988106 and filter it using the 60he v2 split tag
man that sucks, luckily these boxes are made to protect the product! hope your wooting is ok~
Anyone have recommendations for keycaps that pair well with the blue alumaze case?
white wooting keycaps
White does look handsome on it
its tuff
Keep cooking turing
thats a lot of colors 
I see the vision
yuij 👍
That looks great damn. I went with GMK blue samurai and they look solid too, might look for some white novelties as a trim
That’s GMK BoW, but I’m sure any stark white would look nice
What cap is supposed to go on the split spacebar mod key
Any 1.25u
Yeah lemme rephrase
What legend cap should go on it
Is there an accepted function of it
It defaults to Fn
Interesting. Idk if I need another Fn I’m pretty happy with the one in the bottom right
Most folks including myself are putting a novelty in there
Yeah. What are you binding it to?
Fn
Well.
CAT PAW
A stalwart member of the community
u 2 fren 
Sold out everywhere I looked
gmk got some
KITTY
@lunar minnow similar response?
yeah
You had your chance of making a new order since the discount was
revealed ? A few members actually got an order in. You just had to live with a later delivery date 🙃
Isn't there a screwdriver that tightens the original strap on the component??
We do not include screwdrivers, no.
Okay thanks
Tofu 60 Redux is friction pad friendly right?
Anyone know whether I can use raed switches on the wooting?
Yes
do i need to pur 1 screw or can i just drop it in?
Guys what are the specs of the 20 novelty switches which came with the founder edition?
Are they the same as the lekker tikken medium sold directly by wooting?
100g. So about double of the regular Tikken
Whoa. Is that 100g bottom out? What is the intended use? For the space bar? Or just look cool
Fun.
Am I allowed to open the founders edition switch pack if I ever want to send the keyboard back in the 30 days period 
I don't even know what I'm gonna use them for but I forgot I got them too
eh i wanted both founders and the uwu for free potentially
thatd be ideal
but it doesnt work like that
unless u watched the podcast on the release date
i really love this keyboard but it breaks my hand the angle is way too high without a wrist rest for me
sh i regret not buying it
We also added an option to Mod Tap JIT to activate the Tap key, which ensures that typing with mod tap on the alpha keys won't result in characters being out of intended order.
they just fixed it !
typing seems to be in correct order now
when mod tap is used
update to the new 5.3.0-beta.2
- one problem still occuring when mod tap is set to tap for "e" and "a" and "d" are using rappy snappy. when typing fast "a" "d" are still going out of order
It’s not limited - just buy it whenever you’re ready
les go

Whyd they only give us 20 founder switches
Cause they're a fun thing, not intended to replace all of your switches with heavy af switches 😄
founder switches are 100g and regular tikkens are 50g
why not :(
Try them and find out - If you're insane enough to actually like them (like me with 80g switches), then you can simply make more using our spring packs and switch tools.
spring packs?
spring packs are a box of springs you can buy to replace the springs on your switches
oh
no
100g isnt heavy bro
is there anything im missing? im thinking there is no plate/foam dampening here so I might need to buy my own
Case comes with a silicone and EDPM piece, so you can decide between them.
Thanks, so there is nothing else additonal I need to purchase from a third party?
or should i say - could purchase additonally to improve the sound of keyboard some more?
If you care about sound, swap POMs with Tikkens. TTC POMs don't come lubed and sound/feel isn't as good.
thanks for the tip, i actually think i meant to buy these switches but i forgot and ordered the wrong ones!
TTC POM is still a good switch, they have very good stem wobble and if you hand lube them, they sound fine.
Too clacky. I prefer the thocc of the Tikkens vs these ones. I watched a video comparing them just now
For a prebuilt board? No that's a solid selection.
is it not out of stock?
ima lwk wait till knobs get released
Thanks, did some research before and I Think I Got it
I dont want to do too much myself

You just became a founder, congrats! 🥳 But you might be left wondering how does one claim the actual Discord roles? Follow along
Join our Discord: https://wooting.io/discord
✨ Follow our socials! ✨
Discord https://wooting.io/discord
Twitter https://www.twitter.com/wootingkb
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/wootingkb
Customer Support:...
gotem
swag
Wooting is an enthusiast keyboard manufacturer. The products are build to order. You can place your order at ant time.
If you’re waiting until it’s readily available in stock… it’s either going to take quite some time or something new is scheduled for release 😌
I have been waiting for the knobs since the 80HE and previous to that the 60he people have been waiting it too. 😆
Just buy a separate keypads with programmable knobs.
they arent built to order
they are massproduced
I might have used the wrong description. But your approach to the purchase experience is definitely not the mainstream mass produced like Razer and Logitech
Our orders is split into batches. If. There’re no orders will there be a production batch? This system was designed to not over produce and keep an efficient stock supply dictated by demand?
After spending a lot of time on the TTC KOM POM and the Lekker Tikken:
KOM POM had the stabilty that i wanted
Lekker Tikken had the travel and feel that I wanted.
And I prefer the Tikken
thanks!
The a key on my v2 has some weird resistance/click on the last 0.1mm; trying to pull the switch via the included puller, but - I'm new to this - this seems to need much more force than anticipated. Is the puller uncapable or me? 😂
there is always production batches with every company.
its just that we allow people to know which of then youre part of
most companies would just break it down to its either in stock or it isnt.
got the 60hev2 case, is that square little thing at the top left of the case, the grounding mechanic? Silvery foam thing, lol.
Yes
But seriously, would I need to disassemble the keyboard to maybe also push the switch from the bottom side? Because it is really in there.
To push it out from behind, You will indeed have to screw it apart.
the wootility beta is open for the public to use right
I've noticed that if I set the brightness to 100%, there is an EXTREMELY high frequency sound coming out of the keyboard. It is very faint, but headache inducing. Has anyone experienced the same? I asked my girlfriend and she cannot hear it, no matter how close to the keyboard she is.
its coilwhine like due to the play of highpower signals for the leds and the magnets and such. it requires quite good ears to hear as you and your gf already figured out.
the only solution really is lower rgb brightness
Do any of you guys have phantom presses on your backslash? I replaced the switch, turned off rgb, tried another cord and it's still there. It's surely not the grounding screw causing issues right
No I haven't, not sure what that is. It was working fine for a week until yesterday. Will I need to disassemble the pcb?
my 80HE had ghost presses, my 60HEv2 has 0 so far lol.
but then again, I moved some stuff to a new USB hub, so that could be helping my 60HEv2
USB hub might help you too, ;0
I will try now and check. Weird it started now than when I first got it
you should test it out
to see if that was the case
I guess I could plug the other usbs back into main PC, to see if 60HEv2 starts ghosting.
wait wait wait
my mice and KB are back of PC, everything else on the hub now.
60v2
@foggy hull
dont touch your module just yet
ignore what i said
thats advice for 80he
i also tried the beta firmware
yeah if you're on 60hev2, def try USB hub.
if youre still having issues
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F1BXHGBK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 - I bought this one. Awesome.
make a ticket in #1019755933959733258
ive tried all usb ports on my laptop still the same problem
so idk if a hub will solve it
then just do this and wait for wooting team to help you out
oh no i saw someone else who had a similar ticket and they said the HE sensor may be damaged 💀
just make a ticket and find out
you have 4 year warranty
yea i did, i also made a support ticket on the website
i found it still presses when theres no switch in the board, defo not a good sign
Will you be able to import your settings on Wootility from a 60HE v1 to a 60HE v2?
Yes
Does that also apply for people that get the split spacebar or only the OG?
It won't map the right and left space properly, like this.
fair haha
i think it has to be og
since split is not the same layout and all taht
sent my code to a friend that also has the ooting but forgot about the layout and they couldn't import
this happens @sullen bear
ah ic
what about the other way around tho
probably just say spacebar
How do I set my middle function key to another key?
go to remapping tab
and drag something there
To remove the assigned function, right click the key in wootility
Does anyone know a website for ANSI split keycaps?

is there a wooden case u can get for the v2?
Look for ones that work with the 60HE, tray mount the v2 module. You may need to sand it down a bit.
oke
btw do you know what type of case material would be best for thock
i think wood is the best hence why i asked but
just curious if theres anything better for that
Not a clue. That's a question for #🔧│keyboard_modding for sure.-
polycarbonate
i think its the best for thock
also im pretty sure plastic > aluminium for thock
does the PCB for the 60HE V2 fit in the 60HE+ case?
oh
whats aluminiums strong suit then
Plastic case? Not with the friction fit pad.
not sure about aluminium but I know that polcarbonate produces more thock than aluminum just by comparing polycarbonate case builds on youtube vs aluminum ones
Ah yes, zakus and carbon fiber with gummy o-ring mount can't disappoint :- )
Case: Parallel Array 65% (Polycarbonate)
Plate: Carbon Fiber
Mounting: Gummy O-ring (35A)
Switches: Bolsa Supply Zaku Linears (Lubed)
Stabilizers: Genuine Cherry Clip-in (Lubed)
Keycaps: Drop DCX Black-on-White + GMK Minimal R2 Accents
Sound dampening: N/A
Mods: Holee Mod
heres an example
idk im not an expert so i may be wrong
i see, not sure what to expect when i get the 60HE v2 i will have to build it myself as i chose that option
i was wondering if i would be able to compare the sound profiles between the two cases as i have a 60HE+ case. And will be getting the aluminum 60HE v2 case
ohh ok
IDK IF im actually right tho watch some vids on youtube id say
yo need some help, does the pcb come apart on the v2? trying to replace the switches and getting kinda confused
sorry for the ignorance my first time tryin this
60v2 disassembly is just the assembly backwards: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF6i5ozV5bY
✨ Follow our socials! ✨
Discord https://discord.gg/wooting
Twitter https://www.twitter.com/wootingkb
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/wootingkb
TikTok https://www.tiktok.com/@wootingkb
Bluesky https://bsky.app/profile/wooting.io
Customer Support: https://www.wooting.io/support
Marketing/Press requests: marketing@wooting.io
➤ Check out...
ty, i’m just havin troubles pullin the switches out, feels like im breaking it but it’s workin just slowly
i got like 80% done and the fuckin cheap ass switch puller tool broke
damn i also thought that lil bag covered the whole keyboard lmao why do they only give you 20 my dumbass
theyre 100g switches so doubt u want ur whole keyboard to be those switches
would this keycap set work with the 60he v2?
Yes, but for the 60HE v2 split you'll need to buy spacebar extension kit too
thanks
Do you know which keys the split spacebar uses?
2.75 1.25 2.25
ty
random question, is it possible to get the split spacebar after receiving the normal one?
I believe the PCB's are different so no?
i have both, and i really really like the 60hev2, especially the split spacebar variant, it really makes up for the lack in keys
but performance wise, its about the same, so choose whichever fits your needs
the 60he is also more moddable i suppose
You make a permanent choice between the two. You cannot convert one into the other.
yeah split spacebar seems to be super popular! i was thinking tkl for some games that use the fn row but then someone pointed out i can probably make a per-game profile in wootility
wootility is so good nothing on the market is even close, the way you can use the thumb buttons with extra layers and a ton of bindings so easily, i never find myself needing more keys, dont even have the move my hand to press new keys, i got like two layers accessible by thumb
and it's on web so i can use it on linux which is super appreciated that wooting thought of linux users
i think they have an appimage too aswell, im on linux too i just added it to my start menu as a web app, works great
sounds like the only downside is the wait till mid march for a split, but thats ok-- i've waited this long for a kb, what's another cpl months 😎
its worth it, wont ever need a new keyboard again
thought guys
I also have a really cool idea that can really shake up the market for split spacebar users
i shared it in #1452219819716776077
tldr, you assign a key like F13 which by default doean't do anything, and it will output a unicode of your choice. they act like 2 different keybinds (spacebar/F13) when gaming or in software, but when typing in a textbox, they both output the unicode U+0020 (space)
needs to be compatible with Rappy Snappy and Snappy Tappy
Finallyyyyy
random question, but would changing stabilizers from stock wooting v2 change anything in terms of how clear the big keys will sound? i think they sound fine but if i wanted to change them i was wondering if theres any audible impact besides finding ones that look a bit nicer
likely
if no rattle just be aware there’s a chance you make it worse
my rule with stabs is if yours are good then don’t touch them because half the reports are from people who messed up changing stabs and now have worse sounding rattle than they started with
Only mod your stabs if they actually rattle
stab guide by jed when
When web team finishes my guide template 
@timber nimbus i visited one of those stores that had floors dedicated to stuff and there were a lot of camers and lens 
tho im only interested in model cars and didnt look so i dont know the prices
It’s important you gaze longingly at the Sony section to build good vibes towards your future
Razer/Logitech
Just got the last thing to my wooting
whats up wooting gang
Finally got it
I'm jealous, mine still on pick and pack 
Sounds like you’ve just saved yourself from another expensive hobby. Ignorance is a bliss 😌
Although model cars these days can be very expensive too. The last time I checked they had limited edition and special license from manufacturers, teams and tuners.
Is it possible to tape mode your prebuilt 60HEv2? If so then how?
60HE v2 comes with the tape mod
oh, im dumb lmfao
You can always add more tape. how much it will do, who knows...
It shipped out the moment you said that 
good bc i got it >:)
I am the definition of good luck, or maybe i might have pulled some strings 
60HE v2? Which color and layout?
Yeah 60HE v2. Black, ANSI Split 
Hope you like it
getting both colors as well as a finalmouse is insane 😭
huge flex but also so unnecessary (I mean getting both colors, finalmouse is goated)
kinda but while I like the stealthy appearance any how well the black one fits in almost any setup, the silver one looks stunning when RGB shines through.
Also Idrc too much abt finalmouse or the ULXs much, but praise where due is their firmware and software is effective and responsive. I love what they are doing with their falcon modules. I have a ULX but zeromouse blade is just miles better imho
I use my pathfinder for general desktop and casual gaming
FPS and serious aiming is where I use the blade
Hey guys, apologies if this has already been asked/answered - I have the split spacebar but I'm unable to bind my centre key - in Wootility, I can see that it's Fn 1 by default... do I need to do something in particular in order to be able to bind this key within games? (currently pressing the key isn't registering when I try to bind it to something within game)
inside wootility you want to rebind it to whatever key you want it to represent
for example, if you use f9 as your new melee key, then in wootility change it to f9, then in game bind melee to f9
your split keys basically can be any other key on your keyboard
ahh beautiful, makes perfect sense, thank you! ❤️
Question: Module & silver case arrived, but with a stock black and yellow cable. I assume this is correct and only the pre-built get the white and yellow cable?
Yes unfortunately.
Gotcha. Thank you for the quick reply!
Design files when? 
a
The 60HE v2’s case is listed as compatible for the v1, but isn’t the conductive sponge location hazardous for the v1?
Potentially hazardous. It’d either have absolutely no effect or hit the LEDs and cause a short for the v1. 🥴
and how would you even ground it, considering the lack of standoffs?
🤔
zeromouse?
zeromouse blade, yes
so nice i was thinking about getting one but obviously its sold out haha



gang
