#HTPLA-GF Warp Correction

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hexed sandal
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<@&1122587817768398938> I'm hoping for some help with the HTPLA-GF. I printed a 6mm thick buffet mat in 21 pieces and they fit together enough for its job, but to store the mats I want to stack them and in stacking the slight warp many of the pieces has is multiplied and can make a stack that should be a 5 inch stack is more like 6 inches tall. I know I can put regular PLA prints into a 50 degree oven to reshape them, but can I do this with HTPLA-GF? What temperature should I set the oven to to reshape warped prints?

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deep lion
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@hexed sandal I’ve been using HTPLA for 15 years. It’s really lovely and learning to cure it is key to success. Uncured it’s weaker than pla. Polymaker apparently developed their own although it’s a common product by the barrel. Typically something 6mm thick with shrink a touch past 2%. Baked in the oven at 90c guessing 12-15 minutes natural cool down supports still in place on ceramic tile or tempered glass The curing extends the chemical links which will eventually warp the object left uncured. I was disappointed with the introduction of such a great material like high temp was it’s only benefit. It had no high temp characteristics until cured. and is as you found out garbage which falls apart in months.

hexed sandal
deep lion
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It’s just the construction of the filament. It’s like 2 part epoxy except it doesn’t generate heat to make links. The Polymaker HTPLA has such a beautiful range the temptation is to print anything you need strong and pretty. I’ve made violins cello’s guitar pickguards and RC boat jet drives for local rc club. PLA PETG & uncured HTPLA all melt with heat from electric motor. Printed @102% cured 10 minutes at 90c the heat of the shaft & motor are no issue. Could be wall issues in your box. Tall thin walls benefit from .8 nozzle as a .8wall is stronger than 2 x .4. Pro PLA is stronger than uncured HTPLA.

stuck copper
deep lion
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@stuck copper marginally measured improvements of any type are a major achievement. It’s an old formulation always lacking in UV protection, Raw it’s crystal clear. You should do a head to head challenge strength beauty or what ever hurdle you’ve cleared. Chemically it needs to be cured. Thought out like ASA. I print it on the hot side and use some 870PLA it’s relative.

stuck copper
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We are open to test more of course

deep lion
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@stuck copper Proto-pasta call 870PLA “ V3” they’ve added metals to it make nozzles scream

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@stuck copper heat stability as handling heat 160C right off the print sheet ?

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@stuck copper Polymaker HTPLA parts can be "cured" (annealed/heat-treated) in a conventional oven to increase their heat resistance and mechanical strength.
Annealing Process for Polymaker HTPLA
The recommended settings from Polymaker are:
Temperature: 80–100°C (176–212°F)
Time: 30 minutes
Method: A conventional or toaster oven works well.

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This is from Polymaker.

stuck copper
deep lion
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I’m just helping someone follow the instructions.

hexed sandal
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Thanks for the replies folks. I've experimented with using an oven to relax the print and (using 2 panes of ordinary glass, some MDF boards, and a weight) after to set the flatness, I've found success at 90ish c (195F) for 20 minutes and a full cooldown under load. The HTPLA-GF is mechanically sufficient and dimensionally stable in my setup (which is 6 of the tiles I printed with the glass and boards on it and a 40 lbs load, now the cupping is gone and they are flat AF (to the eye). Stacked top to top, bottom to bottom, they still have some extra displacement, but it is substantially less. Feel free to keep discussing heat-treating, proofing, curing, or annealing, it is genuinely interesting.

deep lion
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@hexed sandal the Polymaker site has instructions on the site. The uncured conversation I don’t understand. This really covers the basics about HTPLA is about. It’s the first paragraph of 22 pages on how HTPLA bonds cures.
“When amorphous, HTPLA looses stiffness at about 55 deg C, but heat treating HTPLA transforms the material structure from mostly amorphous to partially crystalline. Crystalline structures retain useful stiffness up towards their melting temperature which for HTPLA is about 170 deg C. With HTPLA on your PLA printer you can make a part that'll survive a hot car or be near a printer hotend without the fumes and difficulties of ABS”.

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@hexed sandal you can alter the material by printing hot or adding dryers to the mix which generate curing heat like 2 part epoxy. The thing is 2 part epoxy is a short cut and half the strength of a curing epoxy which generates much higher heat’s curing. 850 & 870 are HTPLAs also offer a bit more UV resistance