Polyterra strings

[wheat urchin]

Hello, I am trying to print this bottle model and I am having difficulty. It always have strings coming out of it. The print itself looks like a bunch of strings, as if they're not connected. What could cause this issue?
I have my filament dried (humidity at 14%, so i suppose real humidity doesn't reach 20%). I have better quality prints with polyterra before. It seems that any model i print now isn't the best quality. What settings should i look for? (I am using the built in bambulab polyterra profile)

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[swift heron]

Rule #1, don't use the polymaker profiles from bambu. They were not designed by PM and usually cause more issues than they solve. Run the print again using the generic profile. You will have much better results.

[wheat urchin]

So the built in bambulab generic PLA profile you say?

[queen snow]

[wheat urchin]

Why doesn't PM provide their own profile for Polyterra for bambulab?

[queen snow]

Bambu does their own thing… I’m pretty sure Bambu makes ALL the 3rd party filament profiles that ship with their software. And none of them were bade by an incompetent individual.

It may be their way of getting people to buy their filament since they actually put r&d into the Bambu filament profiles. You get a junk print from a bad 3rd party profile then switch to 1st party filament and have a good print, you’ll be more inclined to buy more of their stuff.

[wheat urchin]

Makes sense

@queen snow Ok i will try with that profile, but i have another question

Do you recommend any tutorial to how to get the the perfect settings for a specific filament?

Right now, I tried all sort of things although I don't understand it all, but sure there are the perfect settings for a filament

[queen snow]

I’m sure there’s guides on YouTube but typically running a temperature test and torture test prints, you’ll be able to find your desired temp, overhang cooling, part cooling, retraction, etc.

[wheat urchin]

I see, so i need to look for those two tests and run them

[queen snow]

Polymaker filament generally works well running generic profiles on Bambu printers. There’s room for some tuning, but for general use, they work fine.

[wheat urchin]

Got you. I guess the bambulab provided profiles are total mess.

[queen snow]

There’s a whole ton of tests. There is a file that has everything in it, you just gotta make sure you modify the filament settings and gcode for what you’re trying to do.

[wheat urchin]

Do you know where can i get it? or what is it called?

[queen snow]

The ones for 3rd party brands, yeah. Both the polymaker and esun profiles from Bambu I’ve tried and it was like a toddler set them up.

[queen snow]

Just search temp tower, torture test, and calibration test on makerworld.

[wheat urchin]

Got you

[wheat urchin]

Awesome, thanks for the tips mate! this helps a lot!

[swift heron]

They are working on creating profiles for all the materials that can be downloaded on the website. All of the scientist images on the website I took were printed with generic pla settings. I generally bump the temp up a little bit for polyterra but you can do as is. 230 is what I bump it up too.

[wheat urchin]

I see. I am currently setting up the temp tower test. I wil post the results maybe then I would know what best suits my case. I guess room temparature plays a role in that, and in these days its pretty cold. I use the A1 which is an open printer so that might be an issue.

@queen snow In the temp tower file i downloaded, it uses arcane as the wall generator. Does that mean based on the results I get, that from now on i need to use arcane?

[wheat urchin]

@queen snow sorry to bother you. I did the temp test. Here are the results

It seems that the best quality is the 190, but the bottom face on the 55 angle only the 230 looks good