#how do I stop this

30 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

light meadow
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Every few prints or so the first 1/4 inch or so of the print is all bloby and squished

terse quail
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We need some more details. Material, print settings, printer?

light meadow
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100% infill, everything else is to cura’s defaults for polymaker polymax or defaults for pla

terse quail
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The first step is going to be cleaning your build plate with soap and water, letting it dry, then wiping it with IPA

gaunt mirage
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cooling and print speed?

light meadow
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Pic from when I woke up this morning

light meadow
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Calibration cube came out perfect

solid gorge
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You may just have some overextrusion with the 100% infill showing worst on the overhangs.

light meadow
solid gorge
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That’s more like esteps. Have you done extrusion multiplier samples?

light meadow
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But it prints everything else in 100% infill perfectly

bronze summit
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Looks over extruded is all Try ..85 on nozzle

bronze summit
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Pro will handle really high temps 220/50 .90nozzile gives me perfect 4mm wall almost 5mm @ 100%. Our machines are designed to push lower grade pla. Protopasta HTPLA .85 cook it just right or fail. Pro does this foaming performance like fur connecting rock hard. Seems Tera and sister Cosplay have similar sealed surfaced. The droids are polished Pro faded red with 800 gator paper wet then dry. The paper heats and moves pro under water like magic waterproofing the outer layer. The backpacks I designed for beer and weapons is Tera fossil grey just brass inserts no sanding or filing any of the four parts. Very pleased with their natural look together.

light meadow
bronze summit
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Over extruding changes by even pigment. That’s why it’s a key adjustment. PETG extrudes much easier PLA Silk as example. Left at pla settings you’ll have a puddle build in front of the nozzle about to cause damage. Turn extruder back to 80% it will starve and pit where the wasn’t enough material like a heat creep. 85-90 may be the right point. Only 100% fills I’ve done were on inject moulders. Solid is not necessarily stronger if fact rare.

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It would be interesting to do the math. Keep it a simple cube. Using the density of material use the mass compared to the sliced version. When you 1% more in slicer than actual material required to fill the cube you have the setting correct most will be 10% too much material The “ extra fill , Pro, Terra , + all expand a little that low ash trick

formal wind
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are you printing 100% infil. looks to me like when someone prints 100% infil with flow rate too high

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I've now read further up and confirms my suspicions. You're printing at 100% but theres too much flow, so material that can't fit inside the part gets pushed outwards. Either flow or look at overlap settings such as infil overlap or outerwall overlap.

I experienced this with PolyMax PLA myself when Polymaker had their hook tournament. I printed at 100% infil and forced more flow to try and make an isotropic part, this outerwall occurrence happened.

Your e-stems are a printer calibration. You still need to tune the flow rate for an individual filament. https://3dprintbeginner.com/flow-rate-calibration/

Flow rate calibration (also known as extrusion multiplier) is another important step in getting accurate prints. Learn how to calibrate it.

timber pine
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I see a few discussions around tuning, and I can't help but always point people to ellis' tuning guide. Printers need to be tuned holistically and in a way that is approachable and logical.

I would always start with ellis' guide over anything.

Also, while it is a pay file, I find the califlower by vector3d to be much better than cube/single wall tuning

terse quail
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Ellis is absolutely the best guide for tuning.

timber pine
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@light meadow following up. Were you able to fix things?

light meadow
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Could not get that print to work but it works with everything rlse

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Else

timber pine
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Did you complete ellis' guide?

ancient hedge