#How should I print this keycap? Do I need supports?
1302 messages · Page 2 of 2 (latest)
nice,
whats the diff of RGB white and just white?
The stems are actually awful though
Nah like
Idk I just called it rgb
Keyboard glow
Stuff
Make it white
what modeling software do you use? fusion tend to be good for mechanical stuff
I use blender LOL, I never really made mechanical stuff
Not sure the style of modelling its called
But for looks I guess?
Not functionality
Is RGBW and RGB+white diffrent?
Wdym?
I was so lost
There is cad sketcher for blender which might be good for mechanical stuff
nvmd it, my brain is doing 30 things at once lmao
LOL
I still dont know what type of stuff I really wanna print yet
Completely new
I think mainly stuff for looks rn
Hey but all the caps fit which is dope
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Oh dope
What stuff do you normally print?
I don't print that much anymore, lately its just been stuff I need to organize so nothing that amazing
fun!
Fr, ill prob regret this style too but ill just reprint
lol
@random spruce Got 28
I think
I did 3 batches of 9
And got 1 extra
From the test
Not sure these were a good idea
I can still type
But its a bit odd
Theyre kinda not centered perfectly either
But thats fine
They look cool when pressed though
Nicee, you could also thicken the walls
Yea prob but I kinda like how its really glow through
Printed this and cut myself during the removel of the supports
what where you using to remove supports?
A multi tool LOL, used the tweezer parts for most of it and then a curved blade hook for the rest
get some good needle nose pliers, they do the job well
Yea ill prob have to find some
Use print support from bed rather than anywhere
?
Setting in slicer
Maybe yea
It leaves a certain distance between the support and the actual print
Oh wheres that setting at
Should be under support
ITs 0.15
0.15 too low?
It might fuse and be more difficult to remove
Wouldnt that lower the detail more though?
Its only for supports
Not the whole print
0.2 is the distance it'll keep from the topmost support layer to the actual print
Oh wait your not talking about my layer height
Nops
I thought you meant my 0.15 layer height
I already printed the thing though at 0.2 top contact
Layer height is usually a good idea to keep it a multiple of the nozzle diameter
So, 0.16mm
Better dial in your filament settings first
Extrusion multiplier, temp, coasting, nozzle wipe, etc
Nozzle wipe?
It does a little no extruding move to prevent oozing/blobs
I see
@split widgetHow about this?
Why not
Itd work prob?
Say the design has 0.2mm clearance between adjacent parts, if your printer is not properly calibrated it may not be able to satisfy the 0.2mm requirement and the 2 adjacent parts will fuse together
Yea yea, I see
Have you done tolerance tests yet?
Oh not really
Do you know any good ones?
eh, most of the are pretty simmlar
this one looks ok
I gotchu, lemme test it out
What is it supposed to do?
Also what layer height and settings should I uyse to try it?
test how small of tollerances your printer can go to
Does it move?
yeah
yeah, that would work
don't its gonna make it fuse
Yea thats what I was thikning
Lemme test it out
I bet this gonn fail terribly LOL
well, then you know what to tune lol
Yea
Are there good indicators to what to tune?
If it dont work
Like specific things to tune
Or you just gotta guess
it depends, it can be a variety of things
yayyyy
Is that good?
yeah its good
Like the 35 can do a full flip LOL>
Should I try and fix the settings for the 10 to work?
Or nah
The 15 is kinda rough too, not smooth
Very moveable though
tbh, I wouldn't now but maybe later on
it depends on the model, when I model I tend to have my tolerances set at around .5mm
Wait so you gotta change them?
For specfic models?
no, I mean when I make my own models
Ohh
stuff like threaded parts
what tests have you done?
personally I would get to know the printer a bit more and just comfortable with it
Wdym?
Like use them a lot more?
yeah
I see, I been stuck on what to model for a bit
I dont really know what I wanna make rn
get models from printables or any equalivlent
Yea that but like, idk what stuff I wanna model myself
do you think you know how to do the keycaps?
Like, model them?
yeah
Well not for precision
Like the stem part
I guess thats just testing over and over though
To see what fits
But I can model it to look however I want
why not?
sorry, I mean like parametic based softwares.
have you looked a bit more into the CAD blender add on?
Nah not really
I usually just used blender to make stuff for looks, not for exact proportions
I should probably though bc I really like blender
Cad doesnt look for me at all, but combining a bit of cad would maybe be cool
I printed this and all the stuff move well
Trying this bottle thing now
With screw in lid
To see if it works
Damn doesnt work
Tune your flow
Flow?
Extrusion multiplier
Is there a test?
E-steps
Elis tuning guide
But the 0.8cube test has worked fine for me.
Second Version of calibration routine for the anycubic Vyper.
I cover the belt tension, V wheel adjustment, Esteps, flow and liner advance calibrartions.
A few quick easy steps to getting the best prints possible.
Forgot to mention You will need to install the USB driver from here: (thanks eric lol)
Wheres that at?
Make it flat or use support
So I dont gotta make it more smooth?
Like the actual rim
Around it
Does that need to be higher poly for printing
It'll be more of a polygon than a circle
Do you think I should just remove the little lip at the top
Idk if its a good idea
How about this
Added more topo
And kinda made the rim smoother
Better
Dope, kinda looks like a joystick
I should print like this right
Upside down
I think thats best
WHy is the like brim around it so wide
Normally its only 1 line around the object
Yes
It came out kinda nice tbh, nicer than the other one
It's a skirt. A brim would connect to the model
Im printing it a tiny bit bigger for the rim, and a bit thinner
In hopes it glows throuhg a bit more
Whys it so wide though?
It's 3 lines in this case likely because there is min skirt length
did you model it? bc if you did what tolerances did you put in?
Nah didn't model it, it was just a thing I wanted to test out
@split widgetDo you know why in the model view it looks like this
But then in sliced
Theres a gap
Part of its just gone
Most likely these are "do not insert support here" areas
Yea but I think even without supports its still there
Model looks fine in blender
I think its bc my object isnt "manifold"
I need a blender addon to fix
Must bc bc his topo is a mess
No clue, but I managed to fix it with the blender addon
I just hit a couple buttons
Generate the gcode and use an independent gcode viewer to view the toolpath
And it magically fixed itself LOL
Added more supports
But thats where it was missing
Could also be it was a non-manifold area
Testing the mini-13 figure in the gray polypro filament I got
Just the moving part and not the cosmetic piecex