#Ted's Janky print
330 messages Β· Page 1 of 1 (latest)
oh, it came off the print bed
what's your bed temp?
2 suggestions:
- clean with IPA and clean microfiber
- apply a light layer/dusting of some unscented hair net PVA hairspray
60C
oh boy
It kind of throwing me for a bit of a loop because other filaments print fine on the same settings
on my anycubic I was printing 210/56 with PVA
I use 45C max for pla
but really if you're having problems with adhesion, you just need alcohol and hairspray
PLA's glass temp is 50-80
so you're going to be struggling with elephant's foot
Well its sticking fine, but im guessing the nozzle is like "grabbing" the part because the build sheet will be askew from the magnet base
Which slicer are you using?
obviously it's not sticking fine if you're using brims π
And which printer?
Cura 5.2.2
e3v2 neo with sprite
Most people leave cura default, lol
Use z-hop
Complete transparency, Im just following what the manual of the thing Im printing said to
It'll lift the nozzle during travel moves which should prevent it grabing parts
yeah, but that thing is usually tuned to that person's printer, which is probably different from your printer, but also this ^
Which filament are you print with btw?
I was wondering if I should kick that on again. It gave some gnarly artifacts when I printed those flexible slugs in Rainbow Silk PLA
but I also had the old Bowden stock hotend and retraction was too high
Creality, afaik uses slightly higher esteps in their default firmware
by the way, have you done the mark and measure test for extrusion distance?
what's your z-hop set to?
Ive had it off
To avoid mixing stuff and make referencing easier for later, please list:
- You printer
- Whether it's stock or not
- Firmware
- Whether it'a stock or not
- Filament type and make you are using
- Ender 3 V2
- Flexy magnet build plate, CR Touch, Sprite Pro Hotend/DD extruder
- Marlin Professional
- Non-stock, github Download
- Overture PLA Pro
What's your current flow rate?
Legit question, is that enough to screw it up
100% on Cura
May cause over extrusion, dimensional inaccuracies and more stringing
printing the flow cube now
Try 97%
How many top and bottom layers?
Do you have a caliper?
6&6 and yes
6 seems excessive (atleast for non structural parts), lol
Try using the 0.8cube calibration
It works well
I usually use this one
you're on a 0.4 nozzle, right?
Aye
Those are better for axis calibration IMO
Although I do have .02s to .08s
Try this:
Second Version of calibration routine for the anycubic Vyper.
I cover the belt tension, V wheel adjustment, Esteps, flow and liner advance calibrartions.
A few quick easy steps to getting the best prints possible.
Forgot to mention You will need to install the USB driver from here: (thanks eric lol)
if you feel like checking to see if your squish is good
^ that's from ellis's print guide
Top surface seems a bit rough
can you show it from the side? either x or y?
Can you feel the bumps if you run your finger on it?
If yes, dial down your flow rate a bit
Seems a bit low
On the cube?
for context this is a tronxy x5sa (that has a horrible motion system) with anycubic grey pla on an 0.5 cht
Yes, where 'z' is
Z is a little rough yes
Was printed with flow at 100, yes?
Im pretty sure, yes
It does π
Thank you π
Use same settings, change only flow to 96-97 ish
See how that works for ya
10-4
Cura released 5.3 btw
The internet told me this stuff was easy lol
(im kidding, half of this is the result of my own tinkering)
the internet is obviously very correct 
It is once you find your way around, lol
It's like driving
I have a terminal case of shipwright's disease
honestly, good luck... I was on struggle bus trying to figure out PLA for like a month
I must play with the thing
First its an overload of info, then its second nature. Lol
can I introduce you to the lord our savior the voron switchwire? π
Frustrating but best way to learn
(kidding, don't do that)
Haha
All my hobbies get really expensive really fast
yeahhhhhh, let's not talk about that π³
Im gonna go to cheaper things like golf or wine tasting
or photography or guns, I hear both of those are super cheap π
Well I did just drop 2k on a shotgun sooo....
There goes my tax refund
And bonus...
and...
says nothing about the fact that he started in jan with a e3v2neo and now has a tronxy x5sa (being converted to vzbot), a vz330awd that he needs to finish building and a qidi x-plus 3 being delivered next week
If it makes you feel anybetter I got a half broken CR-10 im not even tinkering with yet
Cr10 frame is nice
came in all sorts of screwed up from an Amazon return auction thing
Mine is a modded cr10
Its a slow process
I'll just leave this here https://youtu.be/0t4zVtzr5Jg
Do you have more time&money than brain? Then follow my journey and upgrade your shitty Ender3 to a very capable CoreXZ machine.
00:00 - Intro
01:49 - issues with my machine
02:45 - issues on ender3s
03:35 - the plan of attack
04:50 - the CAD files
05:11 - the build
06:02 - problem no1
06:34 - problem no2
07:15 - finished machine
08:51 - prints
...
LOL
but it was dirt cheap and that boy is LORGE
Saw that
If you are taking up modding it, use an AC bed
oh, btw, I'm going to warn you off now: do not buy a 3dfused kit
their dual-rail y axis isn't horrible, but their customer service isn't great and it's definitely not worth the $400 for their full xyz set
To be totally open about it, the only reason i got into 3D printing was for 2A3D stuff
What'a that?
printing pew pew
Ahhh
but that seems a bit not really what this particular server is for
Nops
no, it's more about filament
Don't post pics of pewpew here either
Very much understood
hit me up in like 7 days and I'll let you know how the qidi x-plus 3 goes... if it's as solid as it's reported to be, I might throw it a recommend... for $800 it's cf-capable corexy
I don't particularly like qidi
the only reason why I'm curious honestly is because clough42 really loves his x-cf pro
Haha
mind you, that's a nearly $3000 machine
Serviced some
Whew
The x-plus is ptfe line extruder
Thats a bit out of the tax bracket for now
You may want to change that to capricorn atleast
oh, that's the old one
Affiliate link:
QiDi X-PLUS 3 $799:
https://bit.ly/qidi-x-plus-3
00:00 Intro & feature walkthrough
02:38 Setup
04:31 Fast 3D benchy printing compared with BambuLab P1P
08:43 More PLA test prints
11:15 PETG, ABS & TPU test prints
13:39 ABS glass fiber, Nylon carbon fiber test prints
14:24 Pros and Cons
20:03 Bloopers
Welcome back to Aurora Te...
capricorn tube
The engineering extruder i saw (atleast the one I worked on) was total crap
And was super clogged
And kept clogging
Might as well get a bambu
Lol
Ive seen those but Idk
Exactly. For the cost to quality, its better IMO
tbh, I just bought the qidi because it's not absurdly expensive and it'll let me print ASA with a heated build volume
I kinda like being on the rougher, dirtier side of things
P1p is cheaper and you can make your side panels
You should see my Miata
lol
Homebrew is my go-to
I have one dude reach out to me to service his printer
That dude got ripped off
The printer was literally made out of 3mm plywood
if you don't have a home-built pneumatic valve head on your miata I'm not paying attention https://youtu.be/E9KJ_f7REGw
Itβs finally here! Thanks to everyone for all the support over the past few months, the response to everything is still mind-boggling. While this build isnβt done, This is the big milestone that Iβm pushing for. Iβll continue to tinker with it in the future and Iβm here for ongoing development, but please watch the ending of this video for more ...
Lol
those guys print their own turbos in house π
it's cheaper and more accurate to do selective laser sintering in house than it would be to try to cnc or outsource
Not even cast then
just straight up print a turbo
ummmm
It's fine
Wanna see the gear? Lolll
yeah, but those machines cost more than your house
yes please
Oh yeah, I used to to work at a pipe threading plant
CNC machines and mills and whatnot
is it printed out of PLA?
lord the money those cost
I also love how 2 of those screws are backed out like 4mm
Lolll, nops. Seem to be molded plastic
bruh
Lolll
Haha
so it's a plywood prusia clone only worse?
Pretty much
Looks like the first version of printers when it was in its infancy
Pretty much what I told the dude
He bought it for the low low price of $220 ish
Whatcha wanna do is head to Amazon or Microcenter or something
And just go get a stock Ender
Reminds me I need to add klipper to that π
Not available here
Lol
Booo
Am a dot on the map
you could get a brand new ender 3 and a couple spools of filament for that
Shipping is kinda expensive over here sadly. Which is why they cost more
Ouch
makes sense then why you're maintaining printers for people
Thats rough buddy
I am polymaker's official reseller for here actually
But I also sell printers
And offer maintenance/fix services
You're welcome. We'll get your printer spitting good parts soon π
I mean it was all going pretty well til I snapped my Y belt and decided to modify
Sometime stock is just good enough
Once you mod something, you must almost always retune stuff
And you should also tune for each filament you use
need pics
poor bastard needs so much work
Lol
Car probably saved my life though
Woulda never found the friends I did without it
And I was in a rough spot
Its a bad photo
but there's my boy
And there he is going to by buddy's shop for a long needed overhaul
I call him "Prince" on account of the purple
NA, not bad... have you swapped it?
(mostly I'm curious if you're 1.6, 1.8 or put something else in there)
Its a 1.8 for now but me and my buddy are doing a bench build engine with a little turbo soon]
Cylinder 3 is all but dead
destroked k24's are nuts
Planning on a solid 220-270 HP
I don't need too crazy
Im not racing it, its a car Im gonna be buried with
So I cant abuse it too much
Plus the transmission doesn't handle much more than about 200 ft/lbs before it starts making the magic metal dust inside
iirc taylor ray did his k-swap on his cefiro with a 350z trans
Oh yeah theres upgrade paths galore
these guys apparently spent like $10k to k-swap their NA: https://youtu.be/Br-_1oxuGSY
We break down the full build costs of Honda K Series Swapping a Miata. It probably costs more than you think!
Build Spreadsheet: https://bit.ly/KSwapSpreadsheet
This car is a K24Z3 swapped NA Miata, specifically a 1996. This swap was completed with a KMiata swap kit from KPower Industries. This included a full 3" stainless exhaust, replacing t...
but if you do k-swap, you've got a bulletproof motor that costs about $500 for a spare core
I has a wild notion of a 3.8 Supercharged V6 from a Bonneville with a T5 World Class
in the other chassis I had
but that projects dead and I sold the motor
and the k-series can handle like... 280-300lb-ft of torque or so before you need a forged bottom end
so if you were to setup a bone stock k24 at like... 350-380hp, it'll last forever
I couldve asked 800HP out of that thing
The endgame was to take it to the salt flats and make the little Japanese car do 200mph
that'd be funny
Screaming all the way
Just supercharger whine all day long
Speed doesnt scare me enough as it should
Ive just never been a big Honda guy tbh
the only things kyle hasn't k-swapped that he owns are his tow rig and his tesla, though if he could, I'm sure he would
Like I get the swaps and theres some Civics that I give mad respect to
but its just not my scene
really the main reason for it is that it's cheap, it's plentiful, it's powerful (enough) and it's reliable
If I won the lottery, im going rotary
π
Because Im a masochist
I too like 
Mazda 787B Hunaudieres Straight Amazing Sound!
passage of the Mazda 787B in Mulsanne before the 24 hours of Le Mans 2011.
ALL HAIL THE 787B
have you seen rob dahm's 4-rotor?
oh, btw, both mad mike and adam lz have NA 4-rotors now
adam lz 4-rotor swapped an a90 supra
Oooh
Ill have to check that out
This noise
This is the noise of GOD
3L flat 12 just absolutely HOWLING
Absolute madness contained in an aluminum alloy crankcase
and not enough air in the world to feed it
I pray for the day F1 returns to the V10
probably won't happen, not environmentally friendly enough. I'm going to take off and get some chow ποΈ
just for fun
nice
honestly it doesn't look the best imho, but nobody has raised their hand to help me with my ASA fuckery
Open a thread with your issues and we'll get it sorted
I did that after ted opened his lol (by 5 minutes)
Checking now, lol
Awesome!
it's very voron/klipper-focused, but it's pretty cool in that it shows you what all can be done
It just struck me as weird because I printed other stuff, same filament, same settings, everything
Came out fine.
Check all your screws
Gear etc
Specially set screws
You might want to use skirt instead of brim btw π
oh, with regards to screws, personally... if it's something that can come loose, the bitch gets blue locktite (on my ender)
Honestly with everything else I'm involved with, I'm buying blue loctite by the drum soon. Lol
Like the crass American I am with Frank's Hot Sauce, I put that stuff on everything
