#Jaden's Printing Journey
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how do you even fix that
Mount everest
Ok you got this @earnest epoch I’m gonna work on canbusss
do you just... bend it at the middle?
Changed it for a glass mirror surface
ohhh
that's what I have rn
I can't lower that back corner any more, the wheel won't turn. Perhaps I can compensate and lift the front right
I need to go off for a bit, have a few things to take care of
Finally, canbus!!! Woohoo
Try to rerun the screw levelling
I appreciate the help so far guys, I'll keep working on this!
It's a process. Frustrating, but you learn a lot from it.
If you need me ping me the dm it makes noise lol
So far I'm consistently just changing which corner is obnoxiously high
wiggled the bedplate because I was annoyed and discovered le front eccentric nut wheel wasn't even touching
the level result hasn't really changed but at least it'll be stable enough to adjust
I like tightening the screws as much as possible. The regular springs are too squishy. Most people usually change to either harder springs, silicon mount or rigid mount
@lucid flame Follow this for your calibration:
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
I’ve come pretty close to level now that the plate isn’t wiggling around
I see a .191, is that the distance between highest and lowest point?
Ok just answered that
Got it level!
Took like 20 rounds but it's at a .155 deviation
instead of a .8
Sweet!
so if y'all watch your prints with klipper, what's the highest layer count you've had
2.2?
First layer is going pretty solid so far, got some odd waves but they're not causing problems
Waves likely due to resonance. Do an input shaping later on.
Above is without IS, below is with IS
not quite that
But I will do a resonance tune after this
I've just been waiting to print this for like two weeks now🙃
It’s just the one row, hence why I’m not too concerned
Had a couple instances where the nozzle scraped the rounds but I lifted Z again and it fixed that
Oddly enough, I had to lift Z rather than drop it
I'll have to adjust the config file after this, it's about .35 off
Also have to figure out the camera issues, it frequently drops to 1-2 fps
So next time you do your paper test you know that the tightness you had that time was to tight. Gotta be able to move it just a lil bit more than that.
No news is good news right? 🤞 @lucid flame
So far yes
2 color sections further and it still looks really good
Think after doing the input shaping and adjusting Z in the cfg file i can continue the plane
it does have two odd lines that I'm not sure why they're there, but I can show you when it's done so it's not moving around chaotically
That would be helpful
Ignore the bottom, that was before I raised Z. The two lines in yellow
It’s not a shift, it’s just squished out on that layer or two
It’s almost lined up with the color changes really
Could be the z axis is catching or the wheels have some irregularities.
Does not really look like an extrusion issue
Try using some machine mineral oil on the lead screw
Just a few drops
Will do once I get some
The yellow ones are the only ones that really made me go hmm, the rest are normal for this filament
The switch thing I made has the same lines
Same with a couple smaller items of this type
You can also move the gantry up and down in that area and see if you find anything rough or sticky spots. Never know I could be just some crud stuck to it too.
The crud is the e3 😆
It’s finally done
Sandwich for reference😂
It looks really good, honestly could’ve gone with 10% infill
It’s fairly heavy and used 90% of my kg roll
Beautiful. Perfect fit in the milk crate
If I had a better understanding of designing parts, I’d make some different fans and then a psu mount
Question is…. Did you leave air cooling holes so you can run a fan over all them drives 🙂 lol
There are a handful of printable cases out there. Search thangs and you’ll come up with one. But ya part design is hard. I gotta get use to a program and run with it
Yes
Sweet
And you designed that yourself?
All good just was about to say well what kinda issue you having lol
Well wonderful print still!
Indeed, it came out very well minus those two rows in the yellow
But even then those don't affect anything
The only thing I have to figure out now is how to design something to keep the drives in
Like if I want a bar down the front or something hinged
I think a clip on bar would be easiest, since it’s not like they’re being swapped out
@lucid flame Glad the printer is finally working and pushing out useable parts!
Me too!
Trying for a plane part, it's a smaller one so we'll see what happens
I'm nearly out of the good filaments though
I plan to next week, that’s why I asked about the 3djake.de supplier
Since I’d rather have 2 day versus 10 day shipping
I love the pastels
Polyterra?
Yesss
Polyterra is good for mostly aesthetic prints (IMO). The layer adhesion isn't super great.
If you need a pla for mechanical parts, PLA PRO is a better choice
I didn’t see a pro, saw like a pla max?
I’m wanting to do mostly RC stuff, dabble in prosthetic designs(need the flexible filament), and some stuff I can sell on Etsy to make up for costs
I’m almost done with this plane
The printing part anyways
So tpu 95hf for flexible, pla max is prob poly max pla. Id send an email asking to be sure. If there a polymaker reseller they will have the ability to get almost anything on the website. Poly max pla is good for frames and stuff. Pla lw (light weight ) is really good for doing drones. You swap the nozzle to an all metal you can run petg which opens a whole new world off more ductile plastics.
Pro will be under polylite series
Polymax is a different ball game. More expensive too.
Ok, sounds like I’ll want to find LW for these particular projects and max for the rc cars
Started seeing some extrusion problems but I cleaned it and upped the extrusion factor to 105% since it’s a really minor amount
I think I can still use this part since it’s a slower test plane, but in the future I’ll be a bit pickier
So we’ll see if the cleaning and the upped factor improves the second, identical part for the other wing
Of course, it’s helpful to print with filament in the extruder
Hmm, second part did it too, and the bottom warped up
Think I need to turn down the heat on the bed?
It’s minor but really, unacceptable for this kind of print since it needs to be precise
Which filament is this again?
I don’t remember the brand, I think SunLu? Was just a set of 6 250g PLA rolls
Nah actually not sunlu
Whats your bed temp?
60
Too hot for pla
Gotcha, 50?
Glass?
Yes
45-50 should be fine
50 it is then
Sweet
What's your extrusion temp?
I'm thinking for the extrusion, there's a partial clog because all the parts before these two were fine. 220
Honestly just because the rest of the prints before this wing section came out fine
I ran the metal cleaning rod through with no issues
Do you have some tpu?
What's your print speed?
Could also be the filament.
I do the first layer at 40%, believe it's set to 50mm/s, and then I up it back to 95 for the next few layers, and then after it's absolutely solid I can go up to 110-130% no issue normally
It's only these parts not appreciating that
I ran the second print of this wing section a lot slower and the same issues persisted
First layer at 30% and then the rest at 90%
What's your cooling?
Fan at 100
Retry the same gcode, just lower bed temp
See if that help
You can also use some glue stick if it's still warping a bit
No hurry
Can't wait to get paid so I can get some better filaments, these ones have given me nonstop issues
Get some polymaker 😁
The no brand/cheap brand are not very consistent unfortunately
That's the plan for the most part
What's your opinion on ERYONE? I have a couple rolls that are a bit finnicky but I read that's because they're silk PLA
I love the two-tone blue they have, want to use it for a little quadruped robot next
Silk is a bit weird to print with, especially on all metal
Havent personally used eryone, but some say it's good. I guess depends on the type. Pla, petg etc
Like I got the hard drive rack to come out pretty well after playing with temperatures and numbers. That's ERYONE metallic
That's true
But for pla (and with all metal), i'ld rather choose polymaker because of their jamfree technology
Except the silk, all their pla have it
Makes a world of difference
I mean it sounds like silk is weird anyways
I think I've picked what I want, just need to wait for mullah
For silk I got good results with iwecolor
They have nice colors for dual/tripple filaments
I really like the kinda copperish/orange/yellow one, is that IWECOLOR?
Yep
Which one? Leftmost on the pic?
The blue/green and gold silver is nice
No, it's third from the right
Ahhh, I think this 1 is red/yellow/green
Ok so the third attempt at that part came out usable enough I hope
Despite setting the bed to 50, the same area warped but less
Extrusion issues still but less, I’ll up it more
Give the bed a good wash with dishsoap and a wipe down with IPA just before printing.
Done, I think it is better, just got my eyes dilated so I can’t see too well that close
But it became a shiny black blob versus a grey and black blob
I got some globus glue that’s worked in the past
Try lowering you z-offset slighlty also
The amount of blue left in regards to what's needed is questionable but here goes
we be lookin good so far
I don't understand the placement of the lines but i'm sure there's a reason
What lines?
i think the support lines
all the pieces have them
one sec, lemme try to show
The vertical ones kinda scattered about
support lines?
@earnest epoch you should show these to nick or medic for the website
I don't mind at all but those arent polymaker's though
Maybe as an example of showing off the duel colors these really work great
Sure. @full umbra @gleaming girder does that work?
I think you tagged the wrong medic
Lol
Hahha sorry about that
Sorry what would work? 🙂
@full umbra bob suggested this
This model to show off the duel silks
Hold on
They line up with that support bracket. It’s only this piece so I don’t think it’s an issue with the printer
Whoa there’s more people in my thread😂 welcome to my contained chaos
Airplane is almost done
Nah it’s just extra support because something is mounted there
The other side is hollow
See
I think the servo goes there
Thats the cutout I meant XD
Increase your accel, you can read faster! 😁😁
ohhh I thought you meant I'd have to cut it out lol
I am really honestly not surprised lol
Man it really can't print these last few pieces. They're like the size of an apple seed lol
just keeps melting onto the nozzle
Pic?
Did you replace the thermistor on that?
Mine was all engrained in there lol
No I didn't yet
The heat block needs to be replaced sooner than later
but so far it holds its temp
oh wow! these are amazing!
We should definitely print them and take picture for the website!
Is this your model or copyrighted?
( @steady wraith New project? 😄 )
I can do it once we find out about the copyright
Hehe, not my models but if I recall correctly, the author did give polymaker permission to use the vase for ads etc. @steady wraith
Vase mode really shows the beauty of dual/triple color
Awesome, I guess we will start a new project 😄
Thank you so much for sharing!
Every part to this plane is finally printed😄 hopefully none are broken on assembly
I wanna see if fly 😉
Sweet! Post pics 😁
Will do! Hoping to get the hardware to at least assemble tomorrow, gotta figure out the best way to get the electronics here
I have discovered that Orca does not convert the files the same way Cura does
So all wing parts printed with Orca are lacking these supports despite me copying over the settings
Clearly I wasn’t too accurate with my copying, as it didn’t come out the same
But I’m just gonna get a roll of poly maker and redo all non-integral parts rather than roll jumping constantly
Luckily 80% of the parts are fine
Yeah I am considering it, for the next plane
No way this is the only one😂
I already know which model I want, just not gonna get it this paycheck
So depending on how the file was made the support may of not been compatible with other slicers cura dose some really weird things. You can always try and slice them parts in other slicer and see if it changes the preview of the file. 6
To be honest, I'm just gonna finish the plane in Cura and then mess around with it
I gotta cringe about spending money first
Cura is nice!!! 😁😁
I like Cura, it's what I mainly use
Cura is the tinker cad of slicers. Gotta step up and hit the learning curve of fusion 360 (Prusa and ss) =p @earnest epoch
Plus cura does unpredictable things when using klipper
Idk why but 🤷♂️
Lolllll, i like my granular control of cura 😁
My brain is running out of space for new slicers 😆
Lol granular whaaa you been glooping things! There ain’t more control than the ss or Prusa lol
Your flow rate shouldn’t change like that Sounds like you need to level your bed set your cooling for bridging and re test for the proper flow for that material =p @earnest epoch
Why do I have to change the Z offset every time Klipper restarts lol
It's never the same number
What's the deviation?
are you saving the config after you set it?
Yeah it's been saved several times but it just keeps shifting. I think I've gotten it to sit at .015 off from what it was set to, so it may be close to done needing adjustment
Between -.08 and .040
How loose/tight is your bed springs?
I would say fairly loose because I keep having to level the bed every print
Ya that would be the next question what bed springs you have on it the yellow, silver, silicone?
You want super stiff
stock
You can crank them down as far as they go and re level at that height tying to min the letting it out
I suggest silicone to be the better ones imo
Yeah I've tried that tactic but it didn't really work
I'm not sure why there's springs in the first place, if the printer is built level then wouldn't it make sense to have the bed be firmly attached to the printer? Perhaps it's something I don't see
I’ve even forced yellow spring into the silicone to make them stiffer
Ya them creality beds warp like crazy every time them heat up is the issue with hard mounting them
You can find I mic6 bed plate and a ac heater but if your going that far you might as well build your own corexy or corexz printer 🤷♂️
Yeah I'm not there yet
I'd like to eventually
I'm still money pinching, haven't even bought the filaments yet because I'm like aaaa spending money
No you most def could do it now . 100% confidence lol It’s not as hard as it seems lol
Ya I feel the money thing lol
Once my car sells it'll be a lot more free, that's 600 a month towards something I can't even drive -_-
Yeah it got left in the states when I flew overseas so it's just been sitting there for almost a year
Yeah that's true lol
Oh dang. Ya gotta drop it like a bad habit
Trying, hard to in the winter of Alaska
Ain't nobody buying cars in 6 feet of snow
I'm just gonna let the dealership buy it from me if they give me like 13 for it
But ya Enders are just like that. There touchy need there hand held printers 100% of the time lol
On the brighter side of that you learn the ins and outs pretty quick
Ya your not kidding lol That like let it go to a local for scrap kinda situation lol
Not a 2018 with 60k miles lol
Ehhh 🤷♂️ people get frustrated and end up quitting and stuff cause of it tho too.
🤷♂️ idk lol Sound like my sailboat lol
There's an Ender 3 pro for 150 like 5 minutes from me
ooo sailboat
You can get them in comgrow for $70 lol
The pro?
I watched my grandpa fill up his diesel ocean boat and part of my soul died
that's still nice, makes 150 seem expensive but it's just how it is here
Even the’ the v2 are super cheap
No that’s not that bad even at $150
You can get a sv05 for $189 refurbished and that’s a ender 5
Like legit an ender 5 lol
No that’s global I think Sovol is def a Chinese company
ooo
The Ender 5's are nice from what I've seen
Someone I know got a Delta and it looked wicked
There's a place by my work with a at least 10 foot tall delta as well
Wow that insanely big. Like can’t imagine what there printing on that lol
Giant vases and military training tools
Noice!
Lol, ahan. Word!
Been tempted with the sv04
But i want to make mine
Stock up if they are cheap enough 😁
I'ld avoid, they lack basic safety
Basic safety? Doesn't sound important
Sounds fine
Not a really good outcome
It’s a 235 235 300 top mount Cartesian
i mean that's how they fix cataracts right
Different kind of laser
Fair enough
Would y'all say the pastel banana and the army dark green would look good together?
Gonna do the quadruped robot next and trying to find good colors. Want a two tone
Not a two tone color, two colors. Like a two tone truck
bah this just won't print right
Would stay away from polyterra if you need mechanical parts.
No, it's just for the outside frame
pop blue green n pink 🙂
there is one floating around of dr quads design
The roach 😁
no its the moth
Found the picture
Saw 1 locally
Went for an unofficial consult for the dude
@steep lagoon that was the printer I saw
Maybe slighlty bigger
Seeeee, that's what I told ya
It's a regular v6. Lol
So I'm playing around with making a mount for my milk crate computer's PSU, last one was too weak and also designed for it to lay horizontally when it needs to lay vertically. Basically it just flexed all crooked when I tried to put it in. Redesigned it slightly thicker and with support for the legs, but this is my first designed object. Any inputs before I print it?
How tall are the posts?
48.5mm
You could add a hole in the center of each post
If needed you could add a screw to strength it if needed.
40mm screws, lol
It doesnt even need to be full length
Ya tinker cad and fusion are all @earnest epoch thing lol
Love it patio chair time
If only, it never seems to be in use when I peek in
Cause it’s only got an itty bitty extruder on it and it prob takes weeks to finish a big print
Then you'd think I'd see it going for weeks😂
I'm gonna try the design without screws, I have some 20mm M3s I could use but I'm not too sure how getting the thread in the object works
I think I'll leave it at 20% infill, I did the last one at 15%
Na they just abandoned that slow thing lol prob run it only when they have to
I’ll take it off their hands
It would have to be in the stairwell though because it’s way too tall for my room
Seen one in action
Definitely not fast
But then again, doubt they were using it to its potential
I still can't digest that it uses regular v6 hotend, lol
It's like a Ford F250 with a stock vtec lol
The build is clean, i'll give them that
Yeah they've got quite a few of the industrial printers and then some beginner ones because they host classes for airmen
5walls and 35% triangular infill should be strong enough
They aint cheap, lol
Ah, I'll try that if this one fails as well. I did I believe cubic at 20
No, but the military's gotta spend its money in some way
oop
Hey hey hey….
😁
Eyyy it’s a perfect fit
Version A versus B, definitely improved
Now I just need a couple brackets to hold the motherboard in, a GPU support, and something to hold the hard drive stack in
Sweet!
Did you use brim?
Yes, outside brim
I'll do that in the future
The brim never comes out good anyways
can't connect to the printer no more
Kay fixed it
Restart the pi
Yep that's what I did right after sending that
I experience the placebo quite a bit XD
I wish I could glare at the printer and have it calibrate Z itself and be consistent
Yeah it's got BLTouch
The bed just won't stay level
Think I pushed it down enough to fix for now, if I can get the speed unstuck from 2% xD
Upgrade thesprings or tighten them
I've got one side as tight as it can be, if I do both sides it is way unlevel
So it's pretty set for this print, it's coming out nice, the first layer
But I'll look into the springs, I have some spending money left
Ordered those
But can't stop my printer from assaulting me with the print bed clips lol
lol pei flex plate 😉
Magnetic build plate
Orrrrr, bare steel with kapton tape 😁
ya Ive been just buying $17 pei lately lol
Thought about it but that’d have to be next paycheck
Glass sucks or I’d suggest that lol
Yeah I have glass now
Hmm now the autoleveling isn't working
Every time I upgrade something, another breaks lol
What did you change last?
The springs
Back corner is just too high so it tricks the probe into thinking it didn't deploy when in reality it's scraping along the bed
Slowly adjusting it
Reset your z-offset and redo it
Sony PS1 boot logo 😆
That's the worst range I've ever had
Mine is normally within .1mm
3.4 mm lol
geez
so when you set up your bed mesh make lift 10 mm and that wont happen
What
Well I got my banana yellow and the dark army green but they're making me pick up the grey I got for the plane because they couldn't be bothered to knock or ring the bell😕
Set lift to 10 mm
It won’t ever pin out and not have enough space to get the pin fully extended
Yeah I can't get it to work at all now
Watch as it starts working as soon as I say something
Yeah we got it now
It was the cable
God
dang
it
freaking heck
so mad
😎
How tf did you do that!
I’ve never seen someone blow a driver out like that
It exploded so hard the printer shook my desk
Smoke everywhere
My room still stinks
The copper bus blew out the back of the board and burnt the bottom of where the motherboard sits on the printer chassis
So there’s a whole hole in the motherboard
The fuse didn’t even blow😑
The board actually ejected onto the printer
Copper bits and a big ol burn
A runaway spring appeared from nowhere and landed just right on the board. I’d been messing with the printer, leveling the bed from 3.4mm range to .2 with no sign of this spring
😮
I checked it over
Like idk what portal to another dimension it came from
Its not like the printer has pockets
What scares me is it didn’t even shut off
Nope that how they do. You didn’t short the power supply but the end of the line
Way past where aa fuse would of helped
@earnest epoch
You gotta see this @earnest epoch
If you would of got that on film @lucid flame you could if had a YouTube channel intro!
I had the Pi camera going but it didn’t keep any video
My first instinct was to prevent a fire, not record lol
Oh for sure!! That’s just like gold! Almost worth recreating it! Lol
Send me another board and I will lol
But not lol
Lol in a controlled, intentional situation
I got a few but shipping would be terrible lol
That one prob not! You let all the magic smoke out
Indeed
There was quite a bit
In the two seconds it took me to round my desk and yeet everything off of it
Ya they pack a quite a bit of it in there
Well don’t do that again!
Lol
Ever determine the issue with the 4.2.7? Lol
No, I never figured out the issue with the 4.2.7
I’m hoping Marlin was the issue
Or else I’m out a printer for a long while
Well looks like it’s time to start trouble shooting lol
You can pick up a big tree tech skr pico or skr mini e3v3 for cheap
Well we can find one to get it back going!
Maybe next paycheck
I'm working on switching jobs so my pay will go up a few bucks an hour
so it won't be as tight in the future
Can you get stuff from Ali easy?
I don't know what Ali is other than my sister's name
AliExpress
The board
I can look into it
yeah seems easy enough
Took the printer out of my room, I've never exploded an electronic and didn't realize the smell becomes ingrained
ya you smell that for a few weeks lol
Dude I'm literally so bummed
I can maybe try the 4.2..7 board Saturday but idk how to change the Klipper to that board
klipper printer.cfg needs changed and need ls /drv/serial/by-id serial added
Like the whole config file needs changed or can I reuse it?
you can just swap them out
Sweet
and I just run the ls in the SSH
easy enough
Maybe I'll have time Saturday, it's pretty booked
as is tomorrow
Wonder if there's 3d printer shops in Manchester
oh more than likely
Hmm mostly shops where you can get stuff printed
Oh well, not like I can bring anything back
Jake3D?
Yeah I was gonna order from them but went with Amazon because I bought the springs as well
Site isn’t working from my phone but I can try it when I get there
IDK if they have one lol
Says they do
I clicked the link but it didn’t fully go through
Either way, can’t afford anything rn so I’m hoping the 4.2.7 is fine
Ok worked through the emotion of being slapped with several things at once. New board is installed, hoping to get a chance to flash tomorrow but all calibration will have to wait until I return from my trip
And I put the murderous spring in a bin far, far away
Lol
Hmm think I might've found the issue for the original connection/cfg issues on the old board
Got 3 printer.cfg files
I have a few of those, lol
Ok cool
Got some pretty flight pictures but now I’m home and can get to working on this printer again
Awesome!
hope you had a great trip!
It was great, first time to the UK and the weather was fair
@worn shell , sorry to ping ya but I'm doing the printer.cfg file for the 4.2.7 board rn- am I following the same process adding the bltouch/bed screw information stuff to the .cfg as I did with the 4.2.2?
MCU won't connect but figured I should make sure the .cfg file is correct first
I'm just going through what you sent me for the 4.2.2
yup all that stays the same need to pull the new serial
Already got the serial and put it in
did you make menuconfig and flash the 4.2.7?
Yep, all that is done
I made menuconfig according to the config file's information that you linked here
ok ya anything that has a pin number needs to get changed
the rest of the config should be fine
Okie doke, almost done
MCU still can't connect, it looks correct to me but maybe I'm missing something
check your usb cord
it looks tho there not talking to eachother
you can do lsusb and it will show all connected devices
I'll give it a shot in the morning
Still unable to connect to MCU
Pi is recognizing the board, or at least that's what I assume the CH340 serial converter is, plus the /dev/serial/by-id/* command pulls up the printer
Reflashing the printer board, it doesn't look like I allowed direct serial connection in the make menuconfig
Didn't work
it's there
Flash it manually
Ok the Klipper group helped out since it was a bit weird but it's working
For?
Old e3 board
To flash the klipper fw to the mcu
Ah I see
I flashed it with the sd
twice
Turns out in the config file there was an extra space or something before the mcu serial id
Lol
Copied and pasted it into the .cfg and it's communicating now
Just can't get this Z to work
Ah yes
I tried to copy/paste the bltouch stuff from the old cfg to this one, but it doesn't want to read right
I don't like the word fry in terms of my boards now
hmm
the 4.2.7 virtual endstop is exactly the same
I'm looking at the 4.2.7 config file rn
Haha
The true test
Would likely have bounced back 😁
Supercharged mode
Hmm, might have to summon the chewy for this. I can't see the difference in these bltouch setups
But it can home x and y lol, that's more than it was doing earlier
Check the Z stepper wiring
I have
That was part of the initial troubleshooting chewy and I did when putting klipper on the 4.2.2, so I've just been going back through that when applicable
Cause that klipper setup kept throwing Z as triggered when it wasn't
I mean the syntax in this cfg file isn't being in my favor today so it could just be another invisible space xD
@worn shell , would you mind helping me troubleshoot the bltouch .cfg stuff?
No worries if you're busy
ah nvm I got it
I left position_endstop in the file
instead of changing it to position_min
The only thing now is the printer display doesn't work
It's always the silly stuff 😁
Hmm it won't let me upload the .cfg
Rar it
Whatever works
What's the next issue?
But now I'm stuck with a "move out of range" error for the bed mesh
Back left corner
Lol
I used the same numbers as previous so it shouldn't be an issue
Wish it would say which coordinate was out of range
I'm not sure what this means
Change it to 220 and see what happens
In stepper_y?
Printer size
you have to use ls /dev/serial/path-by/* it might be path too instead of serial with the ch340 driver too
220x220 is stock for the ender too
sorry im late lol
It's the same config file as the 4.2.2 had except the updates for the 4.2.7, not sure why it's throwing this now
Ok, one sec
like this, right?
Yes
Same issue
so still getting the out of range error>
Yep
Everything looks normal 🤷♂️ maybe just pull the 4.2.7 one off klipper stock and save your current and swap them see if that has any change
already done, new and old
All good, it's connected now
see if it home and all
It homes, attempting bed mesh
👍
Out of range issue still
[bed_mesh]
speed: 80
horizontal_move_z: 5
mesh_min: 18,18
mesh_max: 175,190
probe_count: 4,5
algorithm: bicubic
swap this in
I think I know what up
Don't jinx me😓 lol
oh god lets not talk about that
I don't have the money rn to get a replacement board for the replacement board
Also by that point I'd question whether or not I should touch printers again xD
WE all do things like this all the time
Fair fair
Got the bed level now, I'll try a print hopefully tomorrow
Thanks for the help
NP
What happened?
Well always have to tune a new board in
Well I forgot to change the extrusion so nothing really happened
But it’s proper now, just needs calibration. Printing tiny traffic cones
They’re so cute
Never received the gray, but that's the mailing company's fault, not Polymaker
I am having some issues with the Klipper functionality, but finding workarounds
Like it won't print anything sliced in Cura, and if it's a large print Klipper disconnects
But Orca works just fine for these test prints. I do need Cura for the plane parts however
And have to find the start gcode chewy sent me so it stops spamming the G3 and G17 unknown commands, but that one doesn't affect anything
Can you post the sliced gcode you are having issue with?
Np. Almost 3am here also
Did you sort out your grounding issue?
I'm not sure this one is a grounding issue, screen is lit up but blank as if I never put the display in the config
Which I did
The benchy came out pretty good though
Hmm odd, the display section is gone
Oh right, put in the provided config file to fix the mesh issues
Aight that's good now
Awesome
Resliced one of the larger files that wouldn't print and that's working now too, still can't get any Cura sliced gcode to work though
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer] ; set final bed temp
M104 S150 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing
G4 S10 ; allow partial nozzle warmup
M104 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] ; set final nozzle temp
M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer] ; wait for bed temp to stabilize
M109 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize
G28 ; home all axis
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
G92 E0
Here's my Orca start gcode above
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ; auto leveling
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
Cura start gcode above
How do I stop it from pulling up this one single section each time😭
Z-hop
Did you calibrate your flow?
Show a pic if the bottom layer of the detatched piece
Calibrated the flow yeah
I don’t know which side is the bottom tbh
We’ll go with this side
Looks a bit weird
Do you have a better pic?
Seems to be either over or underextruding
Not really
I think Z was just too low
The benchy had tiny tiny signs of underextrusion, but it was extremely minimal
level that bed and make the mesh number atleast a odd number so it probes the center of the bed so like 5, 5 or 7, 7 or 5, 2000 (jk) lol
5,2000 it is
So since the snake bits are too shallow to show what’s up, the benchy is a better example. The first few layers come out like this, and then I catch it and lift the Z offset by .1 or .05 and it comes out like the rest of the benchy. However, if I start the print at the adjusted height, it doesn’t adhere to the bed most of the time, or it will at some parts but not others. I’ll adjust the probe count and see if that fixes this issue
shimming it but it shouldn't need it. Ive printed on a MUCH higher range with no issue. are you still using the glass?
this is really whats known as elephants foot and in cura and prussa both have a setting to mitigate. cura it literally elephants foot you search for and prusa I wanna say its first layer expansion or something like that
Not seeing it in Cura
Doesn't come up when I search
Not that it matters, still can't use any Cura files
Search for it in Prusa slicer
I don’t have cura installed anymore so I can look for that one lol 😅
What are you using then?
Well, finally turned the printer on for the first time since the 27th... just to warm up a slice of pizza lol. Turns out I do have Prusa, so I'll give the setting a shot
Loll
Well, I need to re-calibrate Z now because whatever the offset is, it’s more than -5. For another night
When I do that in the cfg file, I just put positive 2-5 in the z offset for it to go lower, correct
If you run lower than 0 I’d just put -10 for your min as it’s Likely you will never get that low. And the ever changing z off sets is just a fact of life will you get the bed as rigid as possible. It never hurts to have a set of rails on y and x on them in z it’s less needed but still helps a lil. Also Alway do your bed leveling with your bed at temp also it help mitigate some of that drift from the z offset
Got it, the next time I get some energy for it I'll try that
LOL
I have returned to the building in which my 3d printer lives, and thus I can use it again
I have weirdly returned to it covered in a sticky substance however
Lol, how did you do that?
I have no clue
It can't retract the probe, I have to manually do it but it works fine otherwise
Just finished leveling and am attempting a 3dbenchy
Haven't used this in a month and I'm sure it'll be rough
School and work are letting off enough for me to have the chance to mess around with the printer again
I'm hoping the probe issue isn't related to the weird substance that was all over my printer
Beautiful
Ah now the probe can't eject either
Lol
Started this thread with a nice pink Benchy, returning with a nice pink Benchy
First successful print in months, done with moving and repaired the BLTouch sensor
Don't really need help fixing anything tonight, just excited and wanted to post somewhere
Actually I do need help now
I’m not sure what went wrong here, it obviously printed the top part real nice even though the bottom was torn away
Do I have Z too low or something? Bed temp is 60, nozzle temp 220 according to the specs to print these particular parts
Alright just got home. Give me a minute to catch up on what you've done so far
You’ll need more than a minute lol
I see, good lord
Yeah I’ve had problems for months
Okay so let's do this. Move the tool head to the middle of the bed and do a probe accuracy check
This is ender 3, klipper, BLTouch right?
Let me boot it back up rq
Yes
It's M48 for the accuracy check right?
I pulled up a random reddit
Probe_accuracy
it's going
It's going to probe 10 times
probe accuracy results: maximum 4.777500, minimum 4.757500, range 0.020000, average 4.769500, median 4.771250, standard deviation 0.005679
Okay the range isn't awful but not great.
For reference 0.025 is the max to get a usable mesh
But that means between two points you could have a difference of 2 layers
Sorry 1 layer
What's the current mesh look like?
Screws_tilt_adjust
It's calculating the mesh, I'll do the screw tilt one next
so whats the newest issue?
Right now I'm just looking for obvious signs that something is wrong. If it looks like a wavy potato chip for example
Z offset won't stop changing between prints, cannot get a good first layer
this might be helpful because im having the same issue
are you doin a bed level every print?
Yes that's it
potato chip
And it's saying screws_tilt_adjust is unknown
Not sure if it was covered yet but what size mesh are you running
5x7
Yes I need to set it up in the klipper config
Look for the section Adjusting bed leveling screws using the bed probe¶
I already have it though
[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1: 72.5, 41.5
screw1_name: front left screw
screw2: 198.5,41.5
screw2_name: front right screw
screw3: 198.5,212.5
screw3_name: rear right screw
screw4: 72.5,212.5
screw4_name: rear left screw
horizontal_move_z: 10
speed: 50
screw_thread: CW-M4
Okay so that means you probably have a flat spot on the POM wheels
The ones that go along the rails?
Yeah the ones attached to the tool head. You can try taking it off and cleaning it out, you probably have a lot of black dust up there
Start there. Clean it all up, take them off and clean them up, if there is an obvious flat spot replace them. If not, put it back together and make sure the eccentric nuts are tightened correctly then try again. If it looks the same replace them
Just a wee bit of dust
Oh does your tool head move?
It does not
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I got help previously in this thread to fix the whole arm moving
So it's all tight and snug now
Nice
@gleaming girder would you be able to visually see a flat spot by slowly moving the toolhead back and forth on the extrusion
It depends on how bad it is.
👍
I cant really tell from just the mesh without the numbers, but it looks like his might only be 0.1 or 0.2mm which may be tough to see
My old ender you could tell by watching it bounce across the X axis hahaha
I don't think I can rely on that method as it's not a smooth glide
It should be
That's an issue too. May be the flat spots stopping it from rolling smoothly
Ha yea okay. The places that it snagged look like they line up with the waves on your mesh
Might try with the steppers disabled or the printer off
OH yeah if you dont have the motors disabled doing this is really bad for them
Disabled steppers/motors before tugging on it don’t worry
It should be smooth then.
It's a wear item, so not a bad idea to have spares on hand
Get a better printer 😆
I would send you some but I feel like shipping will cost more than just getting them on amazon.
dude it's so tempting
Hey, we all started with an Ender 3
Just a kidney
Could always use this as the excuse to put a linear rail on it
i've got prime, it'd be cheapest for me to just order them. Just have to find the .de version
"ender 3 pom wheels" is what you should search for
There's actually a cool looking one for sale somewhat close to me, I just don't have 250 euro
Did you check the wheel tension?