#PolyTerra Marble White not adhering to bed

100 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

signal bear
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#polyterra

I got a CR-10S, Direct Drive, all metal hot end and glass plate.

ive tried couple temp settings based on the polymaker settings including retraction. using .4 harden steel noz. ive verified my Z even though im cl touch calibrating. the layers seem to pull on some curves or turns when doing the first layers and not squishing. Ive I did have flow at 110 for my normal pla and lowered back to 100% maybe i to lower my flow more. I verified my esteps too. I am at a lost. I did this same print of this model in regular pla with no issues and also tried to print test cube with this filament. Any suggestions or direction, im at a lost.

median crystal
signal bear
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yea i did glue stick too and complete clean with soap/water with ipa91

median crystal
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Is it by chance the car something glass bed? I don’t remember the name lol

signal bear
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i even threw my PEI on from my ender 3pro

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creatlity glass

median crystal
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Ya the one with the black coating lol 😅

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So a few thing. Polyterra really likes to be printer hotter than normal pla have you tried bumping you temp up to 220c hot end and 60c bed? That seems to make a lot of difference

signal bear
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yep i had it at 225 first time. always 60 on bed, i even on suggestion went to 215 and 205 on noz

median crystal
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Printing hotter, checking you z offset with a sheet of paper or babysteppjng to get it tighter, and and something to make it stick better seem to be the biggest ones for sure.

signal bear
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yea i papered tested twice. i even tried to print a test cube

median crystal
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Ya I wouldn’t even try polyterra under 215 for sure 🙂

signal bear
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i spent like 3-4 hrs yesterday trying different things and researching.

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ok

median crystal
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Can you maybe post a pic or video to see it live in action It most def helps to figure things out!

signal bear
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i can see if there is anything left on my discord. i didnt expect a fast response so i posted and was about off to bed.

median crystal
signal bear
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lemme check my discord chan, i got my octipi reporting it

median crystal
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There will be more people on in the day time too lol

signal bear
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here is a imagine of when i tried to Raft it instead of doing brim

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u can see the pulls on the lines

signal bear
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just checking in..

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some other pulls of attempt, these were brim prints unlike the other picture i posted last night being raft

median crystal
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Ok not trying to be an ass but have you leveled your bed cause that could be your nozzle picking it up. I’ve actually had the issue more than once myself

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Marlin or klipper?

signal bear
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marlin

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yes i did paper test twice and i am CL Touch calibrating

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and i estepped verified

signal bear
median crystal
signal bear
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im running octiprint so i can. ill be home in about 4 hours

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just m48

median crystal
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m48 p10 x110 y 110 that should do in csentr of bed

signal bear
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im remoted into my home computer. i can do it now

median crystal
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ok that "should" test your probe mid bed and give you some numbers

signal bear
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did u mean to have a space in the command

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you have a space after the Y

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i get unknown command

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Recv: echo:Unknown command: "M48 P10 X110 Y110"

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checking if my firmware has m48..

median crystal
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kk

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no I didnt want a space lol my bad

signal bear
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lol i figured as much

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i saw it before i pasted it but never know if there is a reason for things soemtimes

signal bear
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so i did 225 on the noz. should i maybe go 235?

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anyone from polymaker with suggestions?

median crystal
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Ya I normally do 230 235 depending on speed

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Everyone like to tel me i print to high🤷‍♂️

signal bear
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im going to try it at 235 in a bit

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got home and sat watching videos for an hour lol

median crystal
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no rush

abstract rivet
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Use a 45 degrees C bed temperature and use glue stick.

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Why those two?
PolyTerra PLA sometimes has higher warping force at 60C. The heat deflection of PolyTerra PLA is 52C, meaning it can fail at those temps with a force. Warping stresses are also a force. So in theory using a lower bed temp, keeps the material in a stiffer harder state. More able to resist the warping.
One issue is that Creality beds like the carborundum glass work best above 60C. Since we are going below the 60C temperature, applying PVA glue gives us a surface that will work at 45C. So if you just drop the bed temp, then you'll have low adhesion. If you keep the bed temp the adhesion will be ok but the part will be more susceptible to warping. The trick is combining glue and the low temp 🙂

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Here's a graph that demonstrates the concept. PolyTerra PLA will deform with force at a lower temp than regular PLA (PolyLite PLA). This is because regular PLA is much stiffer than PolyTerra, so even at room temp its easier for us to bend the PolyTerra than the regular PLA.

median crystal
abstract rivet
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Yeah sometimes 60 works, but it's printer specific, I think it works on printers where the actual bed temp is lower than what you set. When PolyTerra launched so many folks had issues with corners warping and the success rate of this advice is high enough that it's a permanent advice on our website.

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Nozzle temp is situational so I have no blanket statement. I have found higher nozzle temp to help with the "gaps in outer walls" behaviour that sometimes happens with matte PLA, but usually I print 200-215C. My first layer nozzle temp is around 220C.

abstract rivet
signal bear
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i am going to try now at the higher noz tem and ill lower bed to 45 with glue

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the hotter nozzle looks like its working. I had the bed hot to start (preheated on abs first not realizing bed was going to be at 100 so during the start bed was around 65 and coming down

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fail again

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im doing another print. adjusted my flow. and have the bed at 60, temp at 235 still. looking better in the first part of the brim

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maybe a bingo

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nvm jinxed it

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getting close on the dial in i think

median crystal
median crystal
# signal bear

Ya just gotta keep tweaking the settings try both ways for nozzle temp to. Maybe with the lower bed you might end up with better results at a tiny bot lower, and always feed and speeds lol 😉

signal bear
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yea trying to figure which way to take this next set of tweaks

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my brim speed is at 20

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trying to think maybe in here..

signal bear
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do u have fans/cooling at 100 to?

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100%

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instead of wating on the model im doing a test cube print right now

signal bear
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i stop trying to brim it and went no bed support and its printing good so far

abstract rivet
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Usually I have fans cooling off for first few layers, let fan kick in on layer 3 or so

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This is at 45C? Keep in mind it needs to always be 45C, can't start at 60 and change mid print 🙂

signal bear
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i got it printing right now. its pretty thick, printing with no brim but i 230, 60 bed adjusted flow down and after the fourth test i dial the speed

signal bear
signal bear
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so i had the print fail cause the power trip the printer.. it was half done. now ive had 4 failed reprint attemps with the same file. im unlucky lol

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i am cursed

median crystal
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na your not cursed, honestly this kinda this is the way you learn new materials

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me catch up 🙂

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ya no fans til min layer2-3 3 is for sure better. your settings seem fine. if possibe run cheps square gcode

signal bear
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yea i tried that before too but yea thats the fan speed im running and tried cheps too

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ill take a break and try again

median crystal
signal bear
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i do and already printed this in white pla. this is white marble pla and needed for showcase for shop. I took time away to get a PEI.

median crystal
signal bear
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Im going to try today. Had to do some adjustments and.upgrade to pei and did a pid test. Printing good so far on other PLA prints

median crystal
signal bear
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im going to try again tonight

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right now trying to figure out my silk issue.