#3d printer troubleshooting
900 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
What kind of printer and is it an inductive probe?
Looks like a tool head moded Tevo Tarantula I think
Yup, it is, just confirmed
Maybe it's the probe type, maybe the probe voltage needed, we need more info on that probe and the probe model
Wait. Working on shift, will get to it shortly
Do also cross check the wiring
No rush 😉
Ok, this is a tevo tarantula i3. A hand me down. From a good friend of mine.
As for the sensor
I recall reading something about NPN
As for the wiring
Red is Z- where the sensor is connected, yellow is Y- for the bed, blue is X- for the extruder
but I am still checking and reading thru the configuration.h to see what I am missing
also found that only the jim brown firmware supports SN04-N sensors
So did it work without the probe installed?
I haven't compiled the firmware yet, awaiting recommendations first if I can still use this part before going manual
Is it powered by 12V/24V?
Or are you trying to power it with 5V from the motherboard
Is the sensor working when powered? The LED should turn on when you put the sensor near a piece of metal.
Yes, it lights up when it senses the bed
Sure. Let me upload in dropbox or google drive?
sorry for the delay
as for the endstopper, if i can get this to work, I will use it a z+ stop
So just for future we will really only need config .h and configAdv.h to have what we need to loik at it all 🙂 I’m gonna look right now 🙂
sorry, really new to this
no you actually did great bud!!
like super prepared lol
🔥
so can you show me where your probe is mounted to your hot end?
also have you attempted to compile and flash this config?
At the moment no. I've been reading and learning from it. I dont know the correct combination
ok cool im about half way and everthing looks good so far
Enabling something sometimes fails and I have to find which one failed
i got you ill compile it to make sire its right as rain L)
I think on the first compile, enabling auto bed leveling failed if i dont uncomment bilinear as bed setting
Thats a load off my brain. This new hobby is all new to me and I'm making it worth my time to learn so I can be of help and use this in other ways
Thou the wife supports me on this as she sees my enthusiasm
no worries I remember how stressful marlin build where. I had a 8 bit board youi had to filash a boot loader to flash a nre build
100% scared stiff for that lol
im in that situation, afraid to brick this heavy piece of equipment:D
it just detects if there is filament iin the printer. there more trouble than there worth
ajt tje eors <- pardon?
lol youll notice I edit my stuff alot,lol just bare with me lol
it will correct itself lol
no if its odd just know im most likly editing the message lol
ok
🤷♂️ bad typist on worse keyboard lol
btw, i moved my printer to my work office
is it ok to print in an airconditioned environment?
ya its fine just try to not put it in front of a vent, draft is not good for your print sticking
ok. thanks for the tip
For pla its fine
Other filaments you might want to use an enclosure
Lol, you'll be thankful for the frustrations later on as you progress
got it
It's the best way to learn
i'll add it to my wishlist 😄
😁
Just build one. Doesnt have to be fancy 😆
i dont have filament at the moment
might buy next month
until i can get this to work
Let us introduce you to polymaker 😁😁
Get a spool. Dont use the sample filament provided when you buy a printer
They are crap
ok ready to try and compile
Will give you more headache
i dont have much budget at the moment and learning so far with 1/4 spool PLA from a friend
Malaysia have official resellers
@spark bronze do you know that screen model off hand?
Shipping should be cheaper from there I believe
2004
we'll see
👍
Think its the reprap_discount_2004 thingy @mental vessel
REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
Close enough 😁
what that?
GT2560 (YHCB2004) LCD Display
//
// Requires Testato, Koepel softwarewire library and
// Andriy Golovnya's LiquidCrystal_AIP31068 library.
//
//#define YHCB2004
//
// Original RADDS LCD Display+Encoder+SDCardReader
There's 2 type no?
ya ^^
i'm lost
Hmmm, havent heard of the yhcb2004
ok
if ENABLED(FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART)
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER
#endif
//
Lemme go on pc and check
thats the 2 reprap ones
Nah, this is the 12684 GLCD
Gimme a few mins
Easier to type on pc anyway 😁
lol
@woven comet Can you share a pic of the whole display assembly
@mental vessel Looks like it's gonna be //#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
ok auto marlin build here I go lol
lol
take your time
For these type of simple display, there is usually 2 type
Full graphical and Character
i'd assume mine is character
given the display
full graphical would be those expensive enders
as the name suggests, full graphical (sometime referred as GLCD) can display weird/graphical type images
while the other can only display characters
lol I gotta redownload 2.0 bug fix i guess i dont have it in my every marlin file lol
Correct
too many technical stuff, let me ingress this slowly
the 12864 GLCD means it is a graphical LCD with 128 x 64 pixel
2004 character display on the other hand means is has 20 columns and 4 rows
which one for example?
12864 which is actually 128x64
then 2004 which is 20x4 in text
the box never came with a manual
assembly was youtube made
didnt even come with link to update firmware
even in the manual this likely wont be included
so everything i have atm is google
you'll eventually learn about it as you go
and now from you gentlemen 🙂
its the pro right @spark bronze it wants a boot screen lol
and you can always post here if you have any question
make one 😄
basicly did
@woven comet the printer is yours right? Not planning to sell anytime soon?
i'd try to limit that. i mean, i dont want to be a burden to everyone or anyone
stole it lol
@mental vessel can set a custom name for you
i set it to his mame
ahhh, cool cool
its ok
im nice like that tho lol
he suggested i use this to get my mind of a few things
1280 or 2560 lol
1280
let see what i messed up
is there a emulator to try a firmware before flashing?
nops
ok
I mean, you could
how you testing it?
but wont be able to test it real world conditions
Just flash it and cross you fingers, lol
if there are errors in the code, like missing ; or other stuff like that
it wont compile
na just give me 15 mins lol @spark bronze geez i aint done marlin in forever LMAO
LOL
Marlin\src\HAL\AVR../../inc/SanityCheck.h:76:4: error: #error "Your Configuration.h file is for an old version of Marlin. Downgrade Marlin or upgrade your Configuration.h."😡
sorry, I'm old
maybe its the hot fix ver
think they had to change stuffs to account for 32bit boards
02000902
that's a more recent release
2.0.9.2 oct 3 , 21
what's the one he shared?
I see
this is why I like klipper lol
lol
lots of yellow and no red lol
better yellow than red XD
it dont like his name lol
Too short?
dashes
name?
ya it dont like the - in your name lol 🙂
my name?
i put spaces lol
just use "Tito" instead
i'm cool with anything
to late I spaced it lol
i will leave it with your expertise
depends in which language 😅
spanish, mexican, what does tito mean?
am guessing in this context, it would be "Warrior"
no
Family friend 1 generation up? 😄
yup
cool cool
lets just say, i'm that uncle whose cool 😄
@woven comet send a pic of the main chip
main chip?
The big black square thingy
The square chip with many legs
I can take a pic of the back as its screwed in and would require some cable cleaning
Whats written on it
Cool thanks
whats that?
The type of processor
ok
Needs to be crosschecked/confirmed when compiling firmware
ok
How did you upload the other one?
arduino IDE, same way
the . hex is in the folder
so upload, no need to compile?
its already been compiled but if you wanna do it again thow it in vs code lol
Or use this:
In this video, I will show you how to upload hex file to Arduino using xloader. and how to get hex file from arduino. Just follow the steps describe in this video to simply get hex file from arduino ide as well as upload the hex file to arduino uno.
#Arduino #HexFile #xLoader
--------------------------------------------------------------------...
For you, start watching after 2min mark
Board will be 2560 for you, baud 115200 and com is whatever the board is connected to
ok yell at me when it flashes im gonna lay down. if it all goes pear shaped i was never here lmoa jj/k no yell louder lol
ok
OMG i won the manta m3 ez @spark bronze
insta
Awesome!
its downloading a few stuff
For?
Congrats!
manta m3? what that?
need to finish download before it uploads
Just follow the video I sent
Easier
Just use the hex and upload directly
when i opend the file, it did that
In file included from C:\Users\Downloads\printer firmware\New Firmware\Marlin-2.0.9.2\Marlin\src\lcd\extui\ftdi_eve_touch_ui\language\language.h:23:0,
from C:\Users\Downloads\printer firmware\New Firmware\Marlin-2.0.9.2\Marlin\src\lcd\extui\ftdi_eve_touch_ui\language\language.cpp:25:
C:\Users\Downloads\printer firmware\New Firmware\Marlin-2.0.9.2\Marlin\src\lcd\extui\ftdi_eve_touch_ui\language\language_en.h:148:24: error: redefinition of 'const char Language_en::MSG_MESH_VIEW []'
PROGMEM Language_Str MSG_MESH_VIEW = u8"View Mesh";
^~~~~~~~~~~~~
In file included from C:\Users\Downloads\printer firmware\New Firmware\Marlin-2.0.9.2\Marlin\src\core\language.h:563:0,
from C:\Users\Downloads\printer firmware\New Firmware\Marlin-2.0.9.2\Marlin\src\inc\MarlinConfig.h:53,
from C:\Users\Downloads\printer firmware\New Firmware\Marlin-2.0.9.2\Marlin\src\MarlinCore.h:24,
from C:\Users\Downloads\printer firmware\New Firmware\Marlin-2.0.9.2\Marlin\src\lcd\extui\ftdi_eve_touch_ui\language\language.cpp:23:
C:\Users\Downloads\printer firmware\New Firmware\Marlin-2.0.9.2\Marlin\src\lcd\language\language_en.h:160:8: note: 'const char Language_en::MSG_MESH_VIEW [10]' previously defined here
LSTR MSG_MESH_VIEW = _UxGT("View Mesh");
^~~~~~~~~~~~~
exit status 1
Compilation error: redefinition of 'const char Language_en::MSG_MESH_VIEW []'
got this error
could it be the naming you said you used space?
how did you flash it sorry lol
ran arduino ide, then hit upload
cant you legit just sd card flash that
Not for 8bit boards
its made in vscode
Lol
hmmm
Either ISP or via bootloader
well the whole build is there to re compile
I usually use isp. Helps me save some flash by not having bootloader, lol
Arduinoide sometime has issues
Vscode is better
i only had to isp once
then I was able to sd card flash
how do i open the hexfile
Dont open it
ok
Just use the xloader tool
xloader?
Import the .hex there
@woven comet follow this
firmware.hex right?
nawaz really knows his stuff with the old stuff, he love to reuse it lol
Says the one who stock pile 8bit boards 😂
Yes
no there all 32 bit 😛
i did that but stuck at compiling
maybe 1- 8
No, should be a few kb
the hex is 450?
Did you extract it from the 2560.rar?
nope
select atmega2560
there's none
marlin .pio build
i only get CC01 and CR03
disconnect you motherboard and see which one stays
i lose com3
prob 3
com 1 is dummy
on Device, which one do you lose after disconnecting?
its in the folder marlin .pio build atmega2650
it is indeed 450kb
nope, I dont lost anything
hmmm
install CH340 driver
ahhh
yes under device menu is CC01 and CR03
sorry I really dont rember flashing a board like this :/
hang on
im just watching now lol
installed
I have full confidence on the firmware just gotta figure out the flash
Does arduinoIDE see your board?
yes
thats it
try this if it still fails to detect:
Plug in your Arduino
Select your Arduino board from the Arduino IDE Tools - Board menu
Select your Arduino board's port from the Tools - Port menu
File - Preferences - Show verbose output during - upload(check)
Sketch - Upload
After Upload completes, scroll up in the console window until you see the avrdude command. On windows with Uno selected ...
it found it on com 3
do you have VScode @woven comet ?
Yes, but xloader couldnt detect the device
look up
oh wait I do
isnt that the board @spark bronze
make a new file
me?
nvm
ignore it
auto build marlin
wait, is that the 2560 folder?
ok cool
mega2560, click upload
if it fails, build first the upload
make sure your motherboard is connected though
i mean the board is smoking
what was smoking?
WTH?
my background image is smoking
huh?
dude!
ok
What!?
Flashed?
the lcd on the printer says "EEPROM Index Error, intiliaze EEPROM?
ignore or reset
-_-
it was a wallpaper on the laptop
You legit about gave me a heart attack lol
@mental vessel what should we throw at him?
Lol
forgive me
It’s ok
i know the pressure is there, so forgive me please
lol
I suggest the new Manta board
I thought I was gonna have to buy a board
This he can throw at me 😄
Cool, test it now
it flashes X 0.0/?.? y -38 / ?? Z 0/?
😒
test?
auto home
with the sensor installed?
Was there a boot screen? I think it will show the firmware version there
I ment 😁
Yes
Stupid phone lol
Someone did something to it
LOL
The ? means you have not home the axis yet
ok wait, have to shut it down first again as i disconnected the sensor
give me a bit
Ok my work is done lol
I got the Red Bull open lol
do i connect the sensor on the Z- port?
Follow @spark bronze he is the man with a plan lol
He may of yeeted out a window tho lol
🤣
sorry about the jump scare
Lol
Gonna say def got us lol
I ain’t seen nawaz type in caps for awhile lol
Auto correct today turning my z to s
Thanks @mental vessel and @spark bronze
ok crossing fingers
sensor not lighting up
it also tries to continue to push itself further to the left
when i try level bed, it keeps pushing to the left, making a lot of noise
the endstop is there but not stopping
also the SN04 sensor is not lighting up when i move close to the bed
it used to light up before
Had to go out for a bit, lol
sorry about the bad joke
What bad joke?
ok...
The smoke thing?
yes
i listed all the issues after the firmware update
ok, sorry had a height issue, sensor is now lighting up
now, it keeps jerking to the left when selecting auto-home or level bed
Can you first check the SN04 is working or not? I guess it has an indicator LED on it?
Use some thick metal stuff like pliers to approach it from the bottom and see if the LED is showing any difference
Its working now
Still have homing issue?
Whats the normal X homing direction?
How do I get that?
Umm like when it was normal, the carriage moves to the left or the right side to trigger the endstop?
So can you show how and where the endstop is?
Oh, OK. Actually I don't know what a sack is 😅 But have a good night!
X- endstopper
Does this ever function normally? or it's a new one
Y- endstopper
It functioned before
Oh you can respond tomorrow 👍 We'll continue then.
Before the new firmware, it worked
BTW it's 1a.m. here too
OK. Have a good night! I'll take a look of the new firmware.
I'll show a video tomorrow
Good night also, and thanks @mental vessel and @spark bronze
So the motors need inverted and for the love of all that’s good don’t let them keep doing at ton lol Power when you hear th mokskee
But tomorrow for sure
Which motor is making that noise? Looks like the X axis did get triggered
When I do the Home x, it does that noise
Yeah I guess so. Check if the bed can trigger the Y endstop
It doesnt
I can put the stopper on the Y+ port, see if it does that
Looks like even doing home Z, it does the same
Ok, after testing again and moving the parts, looks like the noise is still happening even if it is not at the edge
Well.... It should hit the endstop.
It looks like the stoppers arent doing its job
I swapped the stoppers and looks like same issue, the x stepping motor keeps moving
My suspicion could be that the bedsize could be wrong
Home X Fails,
Home Y, ok
Home Z fails also
Your home Z failed because it needs to get X and Y homed first
Ok, home X fails with a noisy stepping motor. Should I check the firmware?
Can you check that the wire connections are correct and the micro switch is working?
I swapped some of the wiring and same issue happens
I swapped the X+ and X-, same issue
So the issue is on the X axis now because you swapped the X and Y endstops?
Then maybe the microswitch(or it's wire) is broken
it was working before, nothings change other than firmware
i'm setting the Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true and Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true and also X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true
Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true
// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#if ANY(BLTOUCH, INDUCTIVE_NC)
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#else
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#endif
#define I_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define J_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define K_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define I_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define J_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define K_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#if ANY(SN04, INDUCTIVE_NO, SERVO_PROBE, NOZZLE_PROBE)
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.
#else
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.
#endif
just uploaded and compiled, regardless, same issue
i'm out of ideas at this point
another thing i noticed is when i do Home Z, it goes up, shouldn't it be going done?
You can flash the old firmware to see if it's working again
how do i restore to the old firmware?
this is bad. regardless if I go back to the old firmware, replace the endstop, nothing is working
this has become the largest paper weight at my desk
the sad part is that it was working before and by just adding this sensor, everything went downhill
this is now adding to my depression
i lost a wonderful gift T_T
You said you replaced the endstop?
FIRMWARE REPOSITORY Hydra 2-in-1 3D Printer & Laser Engraver General Release Note Instructions Release Date: 04-24-2022 Version: Hydra-Marlin V22.0424 download link: HYDRA-MARLIN V22.0424 Older Version: Hydra-Marlin 2.0.8 bugFix Changes: Added Laser Menu Fixes: Fix screen typo Copy to SD card and then power on
Which one should I use?
Sorry I haven’t had the time to sit down and mess with this today my schedule has been crazy full, like 18 hr days Look for the one that matches the printer It’s stock firmware that came with the printer.
there's no way to upload using adruinoide or vscode
your gonna have to bare with me today is also a super busy day, Ive been up and working since 4am. If you hold tight I will get to it asap, work just comes first you know. gotta pay the bills.
i'm the one who should be apologizing as I am the one who barely knows this and asking for everyone's help and even ranted wrongly
take your time, I am securing filaments while waiting for it to be fixed
and doing some modeling
Can you confirm which model this is? (compare the bed size)
Follow this to compile your own firmware from the Tevo website.
https://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install_platformio_vscode.html
Skip step 8. It is not required for your board.
How to install Marlin using PlatformIO in VSCode
I'll try shortly, currently outside
this is already too advance for me
i worry bricking the machine
It's very hard to brick the mainboard.
As long as you don't have 24V connected when flashing the firmware, it's also hard to get things burnt.
i can try tomorrow, i'm travelling home at the moment
apologies but i dont understand how to go back to old firmware. same issue, still jerking to the far left
i reset the eeprom
I’m waiting on the last persons I need to deal with this week end I’ll work on this this afternoon
no worries
just giving update on what i have tried so far
i tried swapping all x+ and x-, got a new endstop, same issue
still jerking to the left, installed a fresh download of the easyconfig 2.0.x, flashed, same issue
Have you watched/ read anything about your inductive probe? And have you checked that your endstop is actually working. Check for continuity on the lines of the end stop beep when the switch is pressed? Left is the proper way go home to
but even with that removed, the jerking is still there
i have 3 endstop
i can install the 3rd again for the Z
Are they all plugged in?
yes
Ok l
i tried unplugging all, and just plugging the endstop on the extruder
but no hope
i did test the Y endstop, works, no issues
I’ve gotta run but I’ll be back in a bit
yup
i think that it is the issue but even with a vanilla jim brown firmware, it is not working
https://youtu.be/W6zYvRgGr3Q hone chis a listen He is awesome
In this one we get VScode setup to compile Marlin 2.0 firmware.
00:00 Intro
01:12 VS Code Install
02:10 Marlin 2.0 Install
09:18 Conclusion
Link to VSccode:
https://code.visualstudio.com/download
Link to Marlin firmware:
http://marlinfw.org/
Git for Windows:
https://git-scm.com/downloads
SUPPORT THE CHANNEL BY CLICKING THESE LINKS!
OpenBu...
did that but the original firmware from marlin website doesnt have a particular file which prevents the firmware from opening
i tried cheating by just moving the config.h and configadv.h into the same folder, i got a blank screen
i installed the firmware that Nawas last built
ok, did some reading and digging and found this:
SENDING:M502
echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
m500
SENDING:M500
echo:Settings Stored (638 bytes; crc 46942)m501
SENDING:M501
echo:V85 stored settings retrieved (638 bytes; crc 46942)
Unified Bed Leveling System v1.01 inactive
UBL reset
echo:; Linear Units:
G21 ; (mm)
echo:; Temperature Units:
echo: M149 C ; Units in Celsius
echo:; Filament settings (Disabled):
echo: M200 S0 D1.75
echo:; Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z1600.00 E100.00
echo:; Max feedrates (units/s):
echo: M203 X300.00 Y300.00 Z7.00 E50.00
echo:; Max Acceleration (units/s2):
echo: M201 X3000.00 Y3000.00 Z100.00 E10000.00
echo:; Acceleration (units/s2) (P<print-accel> R<retract-accel> T<travel-accel>):
echo: M204 P1000.00 R2000.00 T3000.00
echo:; Advanced (B<min_segment_time_us> S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> X<max_x_jerk> Y<max_y_jerk> Z<max_z_jerk> E<max_e_jerk>):
echo: M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00 X4.00 Y7.00 Z0.20 E10.00
echo:; Home offset:
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:; Unified Bed Leveling:
echo: M420 S0 Z10.00 ; Leveling OFF
Unified Bed Leveling System v1.01 inactive
echo:Active Mesh Slot -1
echo:EEPROM can hold 88 meshes.
echo:; Material heatup parameters:
echo: M145 S0 H180.00 B70.00 F0
echo: M145 S1 H240.00 B110.00 F0
echo: M145 S2 H230.00 B80.00 F0
echo:; Hotend PID:
echo: M301 P9.84 I0.50 D48.17
echo:; Bed PID:
echo:echo: M304 P984.88 I193.91 D1250.55
echo:; Z-Probe Offset:
echo: M851 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 ; (mm)
echo:; Linear Advance:
echo: M900 K0.00
echo:; Filament load/unload:
echo: M603 L550.00 U650.00 ; (mm)
i tried to reset the eeprom but it looks like its hardcoded and wont let me make changes
i also noticed, when pressing Y+, the bed is moving towards me, instead of away from me
i'm pressing the Y+ there and it is moving towards me, this is assuming y- is where I am seated/facing
Invert y axis. It will go the correct way then, install the z end stop? Checks it’s going correct direction, same with z . Take video of it jerk if it still is. You can cross Marlin build files , go thru old config and transfer old into new Marlin config file , compile it with auto build Marlin in vs code https://youtu.be/EerWIATEsM0 DO NOT USE WIN TXT EDITIR TO OPEN AND MARLIN BUILD FILE! use notepad++ . 2 hr meeting became a 8 hr I’m in way to mil house Post your update on the morning you gettin super jus need go home correctly and extrude in correct way
Building your own firmware isn’t very difficult, can allow you to customize your printer a lot more, and there are tools like the Auto Build Marlin VS Code plugin that help make the process easier. In this video, I cover how to setup everything required to build your own firmware with VS Code and the Audio Build Marlin plugin. I also walk you th...
I think the Y axis was going the correct direction. Don't invert
Brain fog to much think
install the z end stop? Checks it’s going correct direction, same with z . <- i would assume I need to remove the sensor and install this part. got it
Take video of it jerk if it still is. - i'll do this also
You can cross Marlin build files , go thru old config and transfer old into new Marlin config file , compile it with auto build Marlin in vs code https://youtu.be/EerWIATEsM0 <- I'll review this
Building your own firmware isn’t very difficult, can allow you to customize your printer a lot more, and there are tools like the Auto Build Marlin VS Code plugin that help make the process easier. In this video, I cover how to setup everything required to build your own firmware with VS Code and the Audio Build Marlin plugin. I also walk you th...
You can cross Marlin build files , go thru old config and transfer old into new Marlin config file , compile it with auto build Marlin in vs code https://youtu.be/EerWIATEsM0 <- went thru this. any config below 2.0 doesnt have the marlin auto build feature
Building your own firmware isn’t very difficult, can allow you to customize your printer a lot more, and there are tools like the Auto Build Marlin VS Code plugin that help make the process easier. In this video, I cover how to setup everything required to build your own firmware with VS Code and the Audio Build Marlin plugin. I also walk you th...
so I cant go back to early fimrware
I'm going to install the Z endstop
also, for your reference if you wish to see the printer
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OH>>> M>>> GAWD!!!!
What did you guys do?
Ok, new issue:
That is when I try to go to configuration, set home offsets
ok: long story short, decided to dismantle the entire kit. I found some of the wirings and weldings on the endstops are not perfect. i resoldered them and we are now at this point
I noticed also when setting auto home, x and y is 92, while z is 2
its far from the bed, is that normal?
i also set bed leveling to on, but it does a loop when checking the bed level.
i tried level bed, it did this probing point: 3/9 but stops there. its not 9/9, i assume its a setting I saw with 3
#define GRID_POINTS 3
should i set it to 9?
gonna try for a test print see if I can print something
ok, another bit i noticed, is that when printing, it homes on the center, which causes some filament to be in the middle which will affect the print. can i add a custom gcode on my slicer to prevent that?
Print failed. It keeps heat creeping
after this print, it looks like the Z axis is now pushing it self further down
which makes the filament clog the printer
You gotta set the z offset now
That will tell the board that the place where the probe hits is this far from the nozzle
You want to home z in the center of the bed
It’s for safety
Of the probe misses the induction of the metal it will keep going down
I really dis like induction probes
Tbere effected by heat ALOT
Is you ram spinning freely and smooth for the hot end cooler?
What kinda hot end is on it?
See you are a pro now gonna know that printer inside and out 🙂
thanks. taking it apart helped
you meant fan?
how would i know what kind of hot end this is?
Ya sorry
Take a pic of it
Amazon hot end and compare lol
I’ll id for ya
when you meant hot end, you meant the extruder tip?
No higher
the one with the heat sink?\
It between the Bowden tube and the nozzle
or the one that heats up to melt the pla
wait
i think this is the printer
its the exact product
difference thou is that my bed is a bit longer
Ya not it’s likely not to have the stock one It’s look exact same
No jus T the item in question
like A4 size
One sec
Sorry starting a difficult print and I have to restart it 😅
Ok behind the fam there will be something that look like this not may be different shaped take a pic it if
There are hundred so models of hot ends so I wanna visually confirm it’s model
i have to take the parts apart as I installed a fan
i'll send the pic tomorrow. its 10 pm here and the wife is sleeping
but as far as I am aware, the one in amazon is the same as my printer
Spin the fan by hand slowly and see if you feel anything out of the ordinary
Check for wobble to I wonted if the hot end cooling fan is jus T starting to not work as well
Tag me when you are back up to it l!
will this solve the heat creep?
i'm thinking of dismantling it tomorrow and then clean it manually
i saw a vid how to clean it
Yes if the fan don’t cool the block it will make the filament melt to soon
or should i just replace the thing?
No not really need
i did a bed test print and so far it worked ok
its just that when i print the scraper, it does that heat creep most of the time
Maybe the fan but the hot end is likely fine
Show me what you mean
this
it stopped feeding filament which ended that way
i could hear the filament feeder clicking since the filament wont push
Oh that’s not heat creep That either loss oh step or not being stuck to the bed
Heat creap clogs the hot end
Ya ok your gonna need to pull it apart It’s really simple and check everything
It’s for the best anyway
Clicking is the extruder skipping
We will assess tomorrow Get some rest
from my experience, the clicking happens when the filament is jammed up the extruder end
What time zone you in
Ya Least we can plan to time lol
Live assistance? 😁
Didnt dismantle, just cleaned the nozzle and tried a bed test print. After setting z probe to -.5, this is the result so far
Good bad it’s hard to see via camera and not high light
so im taking it as being bad then?
ok
When is this explicit content?
How do i push this back?
It became out of its original place
Yeah, but gotta secure funds
It'll be next month before i could buy
the tubing is showing its age, i think i need to replace it sooner than i could
also, i tested all fans, all fans are working
there's a section thats already clogged
can i cut that instead but will shorten the cable
Yes, you can cut a short length
As long as the tube does not become tight when the hotend is at its furthest
ok
done
whats a good replacement hotend kit for this?
single filament as much
upgrading to two may give me a headache early
i want to take it slow at least
still heat creeping
Ok so when your taking all this apart leave the hot part attached to them back part of the machine and. Your gonna want to pull the the tube out of the hot end by depressing the ring around it and while holding down pull up on the tube. You may need to preheat the system a for a moment , careful they can get hot extremely hot! . Then kill the heat pull the tube and take pics
Yup that tube all need to be replaced
Than I’d advise to just grab a pack of 4010 fans or whatever was there and just swap them out. Remeber quality fans are not the cheapest cans also! Make sure to clean out everything inside the hot end as well!
i was melting too much it and fast that the extruder cant keep up
when i set the nozzle heat to 200, the print went a bit further
200 is a low end print temp for pla
I run mine at 215-235
Almost getting there. Thinking of going 205 as recommended or 210
See if it did better
This is a failed print and from looks of it, it got farther
I mean I still wouldn’t say that’s high quality print but it’s better than we have see so far lol
But i need to set the z probe back to -.5 as the end tip is not flat
You can always slow the speed and up the temp for better quality
Yes. But I'm out of filament. Hoping i win this weeks free roll so i can do more tests
That is something i can try
Can you share your prusa printer settings?
Ya z offset is extremely important to how the print sticks to the bed
Can’t win if you don’t enter 😉
This supposed to be a scalper
Trying too
Ahhh sorry I haven’t used Prusa in a long time but I can give you basic produce :/
Quick comparison, the one on the left looks better
Thanks, gives me a benchmark on my machine
Ya I’m fimular with this print I’ve don’t it a few times
Stand by I need to get out of bed and turn my pc on
It’s ok it’s noon I prob should be getting going lol
I'm more excited and happier with the results now
Its 1230 am here lol
Ya I when you go to sleep at 4-5 am man noon come like a rocket lol
Now make you understand, I have a well tuned printer that can print at a speeds that that printer will never be able to see on the best day. First later 220 the rest 215 And 60 on the bed
Throw the time and temp out the window and fill up on patients cause that’s the 100% most important one!
so make the printer hot first then cool down
well, it got me here, so patience more and something good comes
btw, how do i join the contest again?
and i think its random so not sure my chances
Example cause I think this clip is funny lol
thats fast
Top left pull the side menu and contest is in there
Not really lol That’s mid speed lol
i checked, doesnt give me the option to join
Not my printer but a friends printer getting it decently looks more like this. Now don’t benchmark against this. It’s not practical or quality at the end of the day but it shows once you get it tuned in you can make them print a lot faster
i mean the printer is like 2 months old so i think i will get there eventually in due time
Oh ya it hasn’t opened this week yet
Ya if you dump about $250-300 in parts 😉
That’s a print good but print slow machine
i'm ok with slow
If you see north of 70mm/s your looking good
for now, i mean my goal first is to improve on my printing
Ya print well first
if all goes well, the wife is ok for me getting a resin printer, guaranteed the budget is there
Learn to walk before you get in the rocket ship lol
Nooo slow that idea right in down! Learn fdm first. You got enough on your plate and resin printing can be harmful. Give you a chance to learn about it first before you buy one
ok
Well I’m gonna get to moving and grab some food, if you need a anything just ping me I’ll be around lol
Best of luck getting it all tuned in 🙂
Your welcome
Ok, will adjust that
My sincere thanks to @spark bronze , @mental vessel @narrow birch for getting me at to this level. So far, I've been printing part after part and happy with the results but will be sure to improve more
Thank you again!
No problem! Hope you'll enjoy it 😆
Yup just remember one day down the road to try and help someone else out. So the hobby is ever growing 🙂 Have fun and enjoy the journey:)
Out of curiosity, is it possible to power the raspberry with the same powersupply used by the printer?
Yes, it's possible but you need a buck converter for 5V.
This what happens now, when printing this, I have to change the z offset every now and then as the extruder is too close to the printed item. Is there something i need to adjust?