#Zen(ish)

108 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

tulip knot
thorny monolith
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Oh I love the look of that!

tulip knot
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thanks!

covert hearth
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this is probably the prettiest minimalist pedal i have seen in my life, wow

tulip knot
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thanks! it was mostly accidental, but I appreciate it.

kindred karma
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are those wooden knobs?

tulip knot
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yeah

kindred karma
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you made them? i made some D shaft ones for my microbrute since the original became gross, using kneaded epoxy to make the D shape

tulip knot
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yeah. i had some crap knobs that I'm never going to use and took the brass inserts out of them, then made the wooden part

kindred karma
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they look great. how eccentric are they?

tulip knot
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they're not too bad. They started out bad, but I initially made them oversized and then trimmed them to size on a drill press (like a half assed lathe)

kindred karma
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oh nice idea

tulip knot
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It's probably not great for the drill press (they're not made for side loads) but I took it easy and only used light tools like files and sandpaper.

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they're still not perfect, but that process took out most of the eccentricity.

kindred karma
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ah yes, dylan158 my lesser sibling

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ah i missed reading one of these. i guess you're liking the C tone pot? B for gain isn't as good as A (you can even use a 1M)

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the fill came out great, you can't see anything from the picture. it's a tecnique i'm keeping in mind if i need to, but i'd use metal filler epoxy

thorny monolith
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I've filled holes with wood filler before

tulip knot
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Did I get the number wrong? sorry

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updated

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I think C would be best for the tone, but I didn't have one, so I did backwards A for now. I'll replace it eventually if I wind up actually using this pedal.

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I don't understand why A is better for gain, but in practice, I can see that it would be.

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to fill the holes, I just covered them with tape from the inside and the put epoxy on from the outside. I left it a little proud so that I could sand it flush and not worry about having a divot to fill later. It was kind of annoying since I had them on two sides and had to do it in two steps (thanks, gravity) but it was fine. I thought about using JB Weld or something, but it's not actually conductive. I would have had to fill it with graphite or something.

foggy island
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very cool, this makes me wanna do some more overdrives. i had saved some zen drive schems and now ima bookmark yers as well@

kindred karma
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A is good for gain for the same reason the tone is good rev log: you don't want a linear variation in gain, but an exponential one that follows the dB curve

kindred karma
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@tulip knot where's my maths?

tulip knot
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what?

kindred karma
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you said you'd calculate things about your pedal

tulip knot
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did I? I have no recollection of this. I did calculate the cutoff frequency of the input cap, and we talked about that.

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You said that the output cap was too small, so I upped it to an arbitrarily large value

kindred karma
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i suggested other stuff, not really because I care, more for you

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the output cap is good

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relevant discussion #👟│pedals message

tulip knot
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i honestly don't know how to do most of that, and in some cases didn't know what you meant (like when you talk about calculating the gain, was that regarding the 1k resistor that was across two lugs of the gain pot, or related to the input cap? If the latter, I don't know how that would effect it.

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I know how to calculate op-amp gain when it's really simple, but that whole thing where some of the feedback loop is trickling out to VREF makes me not know how to do it.

kindred karma
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take just the two resistors, and see how much the gain changes with 0 or 1k ohm feedback. take the lowpass filter and calculate the extremes for the cutoff frequency

tulip knot
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so that the fact that the feedback leaks to VREF instead of actual ground is irrelevant to gain?

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I don't really get the whole VREF thing. I mean, I get that there's a voltage divider in the power supply but except for cases where you need to power an IC with less than 9V, I don't really understand why it's used.

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(unrelated, I think I found a typo in the power supply of one of your PUP schematics)

kindred karma
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actually your feedback doesn't need to go to vref since there's a cap in series, just any low impedance dc point. it doesn't hurt though

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vref is your "reference ground" which sits in the middle of the supply so that you can go both above and below it. it's in theory just like a dc supply, and as long as you don't dunk or pull excessive currents, even two resistors and a cap are enough to give you something reliable just to bias the circuit at that voltage, just as a reference point

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so all in all, you can treat it as ac ground unless you did something wrong. the capacitors will have an in impedance, but you know there's a frequency at which they are irrelevant so you can start from there (but also check later)

tulip knot
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ok, i can do the math tonight then. i think i intrinsically get that 1k isn't going to make an appreciable difference, but will work it out. for the lowpass, you mean the main tone control? I did do that when I was messing with the cap size, but didn't take extensive notes. I know that I made it 3.3n when breadboarding it, but changed it back to the stock 4.7n after hearing it through a real amp

kindred karma
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yeah it might be worth doing that so you know what those cutoffs sound like roughly

tulip knot
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I realize that there isn't literally zero resistance in the feedback section when the pot is turned all the way down (and when the 1k resistor between the pins is removed), and there's little danger of ending the universe by dividing by zero, but when I put a small value in like 1 ohm, the gain basically goes to 1.

kindred karma
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oh wow by hand!

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i use a calculator to not deal with the units

tulip knot
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I used a calculator, but took notes by hand. Even though I hate dealing with .0000000047F

kindred karma
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yeah those are right, i double checked them

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please use powers of 10

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at least they cancel out easily

tulip knot
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What do you mean? Like 10^-9?

kindred karma
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anyway with the 50k pot 4.7n is the way to go, 800hz is a bit high for the maximum setting. otherwise i'd have gone with 100k pot and 3.3n

kindred karma
tulip knot
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Those are just my notes because I needed to punch them into the calculator like that to do the math

kindred karma
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sure, but you can save some trouble by clearing up the exponents beforehand, or use the calculator function for them (i never do tbh)

tulip knot
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I don't know how to do that. I just type 1 / 2 / 3.14 / r / c

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But don't worry about the arithmetic part. Thanks for checking the values.

kindred karma
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so to wrap this up, the lowpass pot at half on a linear pot is tuned at 967 Hz, which isn't as bad as I thought, since it's not much less than one octave above the minimum, 1.7 octaves below the maximum probably because of the limited range

tulip knot
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I definitely have it above the midpoint (i.e., letting more highs through) most of the time. And it varies with the position of the voice control.

kindred karma
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if you have it on the trebly side then keep it rev log. the effect of the voice is that it apparently affects it by cutting bass

foggy island
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I finally built a new breadboard/prototype pedal platform and made a zen drive for my first circuit! Started with yer schematic (and the original) and I’m really enjoying what I hear!

I got 4148+BAT41 and 4148 for clipping right now but my plan today is to switch up the clipping diodes a bit!

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I also changed my Resistor for op amp bias to 1M and stuck with the A500k for gain

kindred karma
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well, the turtle is just a little ways off now. as bass control i like the arrangement in the Timmy more

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1M is always good, the gain pot value by itself doesn't mean much, just in relation to the other values

foggy island
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True- especially since I kept a 47k resistor in there (a La tube screamer) Vs the 1k in most Zen schems.

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“There” being the feedback loop lol

kindred karma
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that just limits the minimum gain if i get it correctly

foggy island
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Yup

kindred karma
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i just skip it entirely, you can choose if you care about minium gain or saving a resistor

foggy island
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I mess around with the tone on mine heh.. used some silly values (3K instead of 10K, 5.6nf instead of 4.7 or 3.3) so my filter goes from 9.5khz to 536hz

kindred karma
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the range is about the same so i don't think those changes matter much, especially in the middle of the pot

foggy island
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I like having the brightness option, especially when you have the “voice” control

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Yeah not too crazy, I just have a baggie of 5.6nf that I’m using up heh. And there was a 3k lying on the bench

kindred karma
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indeed, in the turtle i limited the lowpass to 15.9k with the stopper using values that wouldn't load down the op amp at that point

kindred karma
foggy island
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Any recommendations for clipping diode mixtures?

kindred karma
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N.1 is definitely to not bother and change everything else instead, n.2 is #1078271870694080533 though. I recommend reading it because there are some relevant points on this kind of circuit

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Not trying to make a thread fight here 😂

foggy island
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Hahaha

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I just read it the other day but now that I’ve built a circuit with that topology ima go back and reread!

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Sorry for hijacking yer thread @tulip knot haha

tulip knot
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No worries. Glad you got something out of it.

foggy island
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Here is what I sketched out after putting together the breadboard last night. Obviously some changes will prolly be made but I’m digging it enough to put it in a box. I need a new OD to play with at band practice

tulip knot
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Curious to see what you wind up with for the clipping and tone. Personally, I think I should have spent more time on my tone control and given it a little more range, yet am skeptical that putting MOSFETs in the clipping would be amazingly better.

foggy island
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Yeah I was thinking it might make sense to roughly add up the Fv that the mosfets+ bats provide but ultimately the asymmetry is what I like. When I did symmetrical (4841s) it wasn’t as pleasing to my ears

tulip knot
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Yeah, same for me.

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I had that one weird Ge in there on mine, which I'm sure isn't essential, but made it somewhat asymmetrical. And that was my version of using up my weird bag of 5.6nF caps.

kindred karma
foggy island
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That’s why I check this discord everyday haha!

kindred karma
kindred karma
foggy island
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Hm well my first OD was an SD-1 so maybe in predisposed to enjoying the asymmetry 😆

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I made a blue breaker style clone that symmetrical and although I enjoy the plethora of options I put into it (like wampler pantheon and KOT sorta switches), I still find myself keeping the SD-1 on the board over it.

tulip knot
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Symmetrical and asym clipping are definitely different in an audible, non-magical way, so it's not surprising to me that people would have a preference. I have some of both. I did more breadboarding than usual on my Zen, and at least for this circuit, wound up liking the asym more, but it's probably just a matter of taste.

foggy island
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Yeah, I threw some different diode configurations in and I’ve been enjoying:

[ BAT41 — 1n34 (a lonely ge diode from stompboxparts lol) — 4148 ]

[ 4148 — BAT41 ]

foggy island
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So I made my stripboard layout and while I was working on the clipping section I was like… “well I could add a switch to take the 1n34 out.. add a symmetrical clipping option to please @kindred karma” 😂😂

But also I’m using a 125B enclosure so I got room for a switch in the middle of all my knobs

Oh also I think I’m switch back up to A1M for gain like @tulip knot had lol.

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I drilled it already but didn’t get a photo cuz I have to go play a show with my band!

tulip knot
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Yeah, I had a 500k in the gain at first, but there's no downside to the 1M. You can always turn it down.

foggy island
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I think I’m gonna made my own thread tomorrow morning! I’m gonna paint the enclosure and start making the board!

kindred karma
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Nice drill layout

tulip knot
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Are you starting from my strip board layout?

foggy island
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Nah I made my own, I like the challenge of making it + I gotta accommodate my building style. I prolly shouldve looked at yers as a starting place tho lol

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I have saved variants in diylc for the various sizes of electro and film/ceramic caps I have on hand so I can make sure it’s all gonna fit if I’m using a chonky 50v 100uf for instance.