#Finished building my drone, need BF help
1 messages · Page 2 of 1
I'd say that's perfectly ok, but you can touch it up to match the others
Okee! Now its time for the fc 😮
I just realised watercoating is gonna be a bitch
The motorshield are 3m'd onto the frame
Does it matter what I do first? Receiver or vtx
For your recommended SuperD I just heatshrink it and then use a tierap? To set it in place?
ye u can
Correct
Can I heatshrink the antenna's?
Not sure what part you want to heatshrink but most likely yes
The white ends of the tbar
For the one under the motorarm
And for the front I put a ziptie ontop of the T connection, should be ok
Yeah sure
Here Is A Close Look At Fixing FPV Video With A Redundant Ground
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Foxe...
Should I do this?
joystick cable
for the cam
idk if caddx is finally including a joystic or button board with their cams
if trhey do its so you can make changes in the cameras settings
like turning off the internal OSD etc
not a necessity but if it has a camera own OSD it can be overlapped by the betaflight osd and annoying
youll have to see once u power it up
btw for this: hes talkin about how the cable is too thin but disregards that the ESCs are powered by traces on the board that can reliably send 30A and more through them
just to put that advice in perspective
9V?
for the cam right?
oh i thought this was a rush tank solo for a second lmfao
Haha
they have the same heatsink
video goes to vtx, gnd to gnd, 7-36V to vbat or 9V your choice, tramp goes to a TX pad of your FC
tramp is there to have your FC control youur VTX so you can change channels through smartaudio/tramp
since the 9V is so neatly there id use that
From the top: the video / gnd/ and 5v out have a standard connector to attach to camera
video on the VTX is for video input into the VTX
Oke yeah
since you are routing your camera through the FC you need to take that signal which comes out on the VTX pad and sent that there
Vbat is 24 volts?
But battery is fluctuating alot more then the 9V pad I assume
it is but the VTX has its own vreg on board
Woah through this little wire
9V will be cleaner tho
that doesnt mean anything
you could put 100V on that wire. it all depends how much current is goin through
So i'll not use VTX. But t1?
u use VTX
you need to get the video to the VTX
those 3 pads is where oyu r camera goes on
this is what u use for the VTX
I know but this VTX can ask like 2.5W
2.5/9=?
Soldering is better then connector?
10
My bad
Im used to calculating in kw
Jup
and wdym connector
you are not plugging the cam into the VTX are you
i mean you can if you do not want OSD
nope dont do that
this bypasses the FC
if you want onscreen display you wanna route the cam to the FC
Ah
I hope the wire is long enough
wdym it doesnt have to be long
So for vtx I dont use the 5v out now
u wont use it
no need
unless the 5V vreg on your FC dies but then u got other problems
Does it hurt?
its unnecessary
makes it easier to build
way too much hassle trying to put 2 wires on one small pad
They always told me it will act as an antenna
wa
like i said
Thanks man, I see now. The connector trew me off
Let's make vote for when I sleep:
Vbat or 9V for foxeer Reaper vtx 2.5W
9v
9v is generally better filtered
i mean itll double filter so yeah
and stop worrying about that the cables could be too thin for the power going through them
its fine
the traces on the boards are even thinner at times
This mount is for mounting on airplanes and such right?
I've used that in a frame too, but in your case that's useless and won't work
Think of how it affects taking the top plate off
I will mount it the the tpu part of C, or is this not sturdy enough
Either you need to be able to easily able to unplug it
Eh, should be fine
Oke👌
I find it weird, it comes with mounting screw holes. But it doesn't fit anywhere. Maybe it's because my frame is kinda designed for digital
The mounting holes are 20*20 but actually meant to mount a fan
Nah, being mounted on a drone provides it with all the airflow it needs
Mostly an issue in planes and stuff
B would probably be the best spot, for cooling🤔 and no noise from the battery.
But it doesn't fit in its length, I would have to rotate it 90° making the outputs coming outside the frame😐
Ah yikes, then just do c
Lemme try something, i'll send some photo's for an idea.
So the cap is a bit in the way
Does it matter if the outside of the capacitor is hitting both the + and - of the solders blobs
And, If I elevate the vtx with the
thickness of the arm it can fit.
Uhm it might be fine if it's the part with non conductive shielding
Check for continuity
yea
What do I do with the ground I don't use. Cut it off short?
you can remove the pin from the plug
You might often come across an unusual abundance of wires on your VTX connector, or the ESC - FC connector not being in the correct order.
This video is made to help with that! Once you know how, it's rather easy and quick.
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Super
no first one was good
tbh you might not wanna even use the compass, I've heard it doesn't help/even makes things worse on betaflight rth
but you can disable it in fw after too
so there's no harm in wiring it
Actually
And I can always just unplug the connector from gps without the wires acting like weird antenna's?
So now I just wire the camera, and then im done??
🤔
seems good yeah
My only concern is that I didn't plug the fc to esc plug in good. But I don't think it goes any further
It has connection gnd to gnd
should be fine then
you know how antennas have a big hex nut looking part that screws on?
thats what the black print is supposed to go on
to make it easier to tighten it by hand
Oke so both rings on the outside
eh tbh idk for sure
So the black printed hex nut thing is supposed to go on the antenna itself not the connector hex nut on the frame
the connector nut is a lil small isnt it
I couldn't find this
They work quite well too
Yeah I put it on:)
I can imagine
But probably springwasher on the inside of the frame. And the teeth pointing towards tpu on the outside? And then the nut to secure
thats how i would do it but i dont use that style pigtail
me neither lmfao
But connection is only the middle part right
and the outside
Aswell
ye
Oke so it should matter
which is why it shouldnt touch the carbon
just do it like this, it's fine
all that matters is that its tight enough to not rattle around
and ideally not unscrew itself
but thats what you got the 2 washers for
just be careful not to mess up the threads and not to screw throguh the tpu
but use some force aka pliers
or a socket if u got one
thats a very long antenna for a 5" lol
Where do you normally put the battery strap around?
Bottom of the drone of top plate
So my vtx cannot go at C?
Or I can just go over vtx
Squish it into place
what is below the vtx?
Motor arm
does the vtx not fit on the bottom?
ye just put the strap above the vtx then lol
i presume youll zip tie the vtx to the 3D print?
not really
oof
nothin against putting the strap around the top plate
does that 3d print just friction fit on the standoffs ?
Yes
then yeah just leave enough space to slide the strap through
wait do you have 1 or 2 straps
ye then 1 back one above FC
you don't need to put heatshrink on the zip ties
So it will not slide out🤔
I have no idea about the forces on this thing
But 200 km is fast
do you have a battery pad ?
Yes
Coil
I could feed it through this little spacing
But this is gonna get squashed by the vtx zip ties
So better down the bottom?
just run the excess length in loops
Tuck it in and zip tie it to the bottom plate
This doesn't matter for noise and such?
I will push it more down into the cap
For room for the straps
if that starts vibrating maybe
So it's better if it's just pushed onto the cap, doesn't matter if it actually touches it
Or should I heatshrink the cap or something
nah the outside of the cap isn't conductive or anything
unacceptable 😁
Exactly
It hurts
😁
Last steps, for testing on computer it's better to keep this of? For pressing buttons or anything?
And the nuts on the stack you can screw solidly handtight (by hand)
if everything goes right you shouldn't need to press any buttons
😏
If someone can guide me through it in like 1h, Lets see!🤣
Anything I should check with multimeter? Apart from Continuity at the battery leads?
even continuity won't help you
visual checks and triple checking your wiring, check back on wiring diagrams and such
Does it matter if the motor wires are hitting the fc
It's only bad if it touches the gyro
if u can try to get em to not do that
but it's not really ideal anyway
Mhh oke
extra zipties
Thanks
Frame is pretty tensioned when screwed together
But carbon composites can bend
that dont look right
top plate isnt supposed to bend in an S is it?
are you sure you didnt accidentally switch up the taller and shorter standoffs?
Im pretty sure
The difference is 5mm
In standoff
Now when tensioned it's alright
I think it's because the vtx tieraps/tyraps and the battery strap is kind of pushing things up
That still does not look great
something is defo not right there
its like there is a plate missing in the back that is supposed to hold it up
what frame is this
Maybe it's compressing the tpu mount
nad thats slid on the standoff
@smoky brook am i seeing things or is it bending on the product shot as well?
thats the only sideview they give you oin the website
doesn't look bent to me
i think it is but not as strongly
Is it possible I bend it
No
By tightening 1 screw before the side slabs were correctly in
I mean it's carbon
Should bend back
it will bend back
but the standoffs arent making an even plane on top
which is not right
by the way the frame is made these 4 standoffs should be the same length can you check that?
I will, but you mean if there is just a manufactoring faul or if I used the wrong
i hope its nto a manufacturing fault
or packaging error
idk but something doesnt add up here
1 of the mounting places is lowered
I'd take off all standoffs and see what lengths they are
a bit scuffed ngl
I should complain and ask for a new frame
yes absolutely
As straight as a pancake
Finished building my drone, need BF help
Can someone guide me through betaflight
If I just want to connect it and shoot it up once hover and go back down. How long will it take me to set it up?
No gps rth or anything
shouldnt take long if you remember which UART you soldered what to
you need to flash the receiver (or set the bind phrase through webui), do your ports, make sure the motor directions are correct, check channel map, assign your modes and it should takeoff
I might be forgetting something
chekc motor mapping too
you need to flash the receiver (or set the bind phrase through webui) which you recommend
which ever is needed
if its already on the right firmware use webui otherwise flash reciever
It's already on 3.0 so you can just set the bind phrase, but iirc there was a fix to get both rssi values in telemetry
So might be worth flashing at least at some point if you care
webui is the faster route for just getting it done basically
Yep
I don't understand but nothing you can do about it I guess🤣
In downloading bf config and bf now
if i wqere you id spend some time doing some research on everything
So better not rush it in 1h to just get it to spin the motors
and also whatever you do DO NOT HIT THE "RESET TO DEFUALTS" BUTTON
ye dont do it
that button resets everything including flight controller specific settings
leading to you usually having to reflash the FC

Oke got it
it will download through the configurator ? Or the configurator is actually you need regarding settings.
4.4 is just the "OS"
4.4 is the OS which is flashed to the flight controller from the configurator
watch that first video
or at least the beginning
it explains that
valid for 4.4 as well
I also saw something about overheating your vtx when on cable
or is this only when you also have the battery plugged iun
vtx is only powered when a battery is plugged in
even when its on 9v instead of vbat
ye
cool
so I should be ok plugging it in:)
maybe 9v became 5v
;P
I didn't know I had so many leds
Jeez
there's the rx and the FC and prolly the VTX
elrs recievers be bright af
the newer ones have RGB leds too
ye its really cool
Holy shit I have rgb
He doesn't say to change these sliders in the video, but he has them enabled. Should I enable virtual connection mode
Nah
That's to be able to connect to a "virtual" drone in the configurator to access the available settings for demonstration purposes and such
you guys flash FC? or like pc if it works it works?
Ah
You'll want to flash 4.4 RC for the better gps rth
So might as well do it before setting it all up
Huh?
You have the configurator
Which let's you change settings on the flight controller, and flash (read "write software") the fc
I'm telling you 4.4 has much better rth so it's worth upgrading to in your case
Flashing from a major version to another 4.3 -> 4.4 wipes your configuration
So I'm telling you to flash first, and then set it up
yeah I get that.
I thought speedybee has it's own software also. And it works parallel with BF but you only update BF
I understand
but..
My bad, I thought show release candidates did the trick
All good
When reading through posts like this. I felt like, these kinda things were not gonna happen to me
😛
so I can skip this now
You can disable the accelerometer in the configuration (?) tab I think
Or just calibrate it lol
Ah but you're still on 4.3
Yeah I have to connect before flashing for backup
this is different ?
Ok so I apply
Just to be sure😏
before the name was speedybee now its different
still f405 tho
ye dw bout it
coding != programming
I know this in dutch
Next time try setting up ardupilot 
Haven't experienced it myself but senko can tell you about it 
I, don't think so, ummm_yes was fighting with it the other day
heh
hehehehehe
hehehehehehehehehehe
yes.
just a bit
a tiny bit
Why are you turning on MSP?
UART6 GPS
MSP is not a "turn this UART on" toggle.
your VTX also uses irc tramp not smartaudio
ah I heard you yesterday about smartaudio
smartaudio/tramp is what i said
ye
probably next week
but dont if u wanna hover test it
and he said something about the ports resetting everytime, I don't really understand when they will
oke changed it to GPS, now it's all good?
idk what the default failsafe is on bf 4.4
Eh, as long as you don't enable rth it shouldn't prevent you from arming without a lock right?
I just disabled it for now
ye
oke so save and reboot
aye
again
is the right com port selected
literally
the fun days when it wasnt 
xD
yeah...
now we just have the big yellow button that says reset settings
forgot it was only red in RC builds
the beloved button
first it says closed serial succesfully and then this failed to open serial poret
So much beloved that I had to manually fix it lmfao
if only it said reset to betaflight settings would be better
This is what it says in new RC versions of the configurator
I know too well cuz I bloody added it
if only it wasnt so big and conveniently placed
idek if they took my translation
lel
yes
you forgot the word betaflight
?
ALL settings to betaflight default
too long to read in a warning
its already a long warning
true
gotta make em concise
We'll be doing a proper Betaflight Wiki/Docs re-write, I may mention it there
Im proud of you that you prevented so many people ending up with useless drones
its not useless after that
idk why it is failing
tried re-plugging it?
hngh
drivers?
how do you know if your ports are saved and reboot succesfully
because now it just says:
- Should I flash my superD receiver?
Baguette it says default protocol is V3.0.0
Ah this, but what you mean with BOTH rssi values
I can bind it by just turning it on and off 3 times fast. Then I don't need any binding phrase. Or will this give problems
Well it's a diversity receiver so you have two rssi values, one for each receiver
Ahhhh
Eh I'd recommend just entering the bind phrase on the webui
Imo a more reliable method
oke, I'll look into it