#How do I determine the correct ISO and shutter speed for DSLR + Telescope photography?

34 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

stiff sleet
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He there, I am quite new to astrophotography and am using an Askar 71F with a harmonic mount and guiding.
How do I determine ow bright my light frames should be? If I have my ISO to high, they look almost white and with Iso low, no details are visible. IS there a way to determine the sweet spot?

halcyon marlin
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depends on the dslr but usually it's between 400 and 1600

stiff sleet
halcyon marlin
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change the esposure depending on the target

stiff sleet
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What should the actual frames look like though?

halcyon marlin
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You need to check the histogram

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If you're looking at a raw image in windows then it's getting stretched and won't represent how it actually looks

stiff sleet
halcyon marlin
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Roughly, closer to the left side

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But as long as you're not clipping data it's fine

forest raft
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i believe ur exposure have to be long enough to get the shot noise over ur camera's read noise

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and since DSLRs have quite high read noises

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the exposure kinda depends

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oh man

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so like

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in bortle 1 u need 8 mins minimum if u want to get ur shot noise over

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in bortle 2 its 5 mins

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in bortle 3 its 2.5 mins

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in bortle 4 its 75 secs

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in bortle 5 its 40secs

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in bortle 6 its 20 secs

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in bortle 7 its 10 secs

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in bortle 8 its 5 sec

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and keep in mind u can absolutely go above these exposure times

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these are jst the minimum to like get enough light on ur sensor to overcome the read noise btw

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and if ur using a light pollution filter like the optolong l-extreme u need to increase ur exposure time to like 10 mins

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also like this is for like optimal results lol

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if ur shooting some like andromeda or orion

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ur gon blow everything up lol

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so yea u can keep it low that time

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this is all for ISO 1600 and F/5.6 lens btw

forest raft
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u might gew away with a lil less exposure times btw

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i jst noticed that it has a CCD

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so the read noise is more random