#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 38 of 1
Right...
Didn’t we have this discussion already
I literally can’t attach my focuser without either the tilt plate, or one of the m90 extensions. And if I use my 25mm m90 extension, it’s too much and I can’t reach focus
What if you rack the focuser out to where it would reach focus without the tilt adapter and put the focuser on then?
it doesn’t reach focus at all
It was really close with the 25mm extension but it racked all the way in
Craaaaaaaap
Yea
guyysss do i get IC10 with the HeII filterr
I doubt you will get anything
soo you saying i shoud 
do you know anything about how you do this?
to get a slice of an image
No
Long slit spectroscopy?
yea
i wanna try it at some point
i dont know how easy it would be though
It's fun and painful at the same time. Imagine stopping your f5 scope down to f20

have you done anything with it?
Well, not really. The slit can be tricky to calculate. And the difraction grating is also gonna cost you a big bag of chicken bones😅

4!!!
Bruh💀
I'm thinking 1 or 2 as well
How many lines/mm?
look how it has 2 reflections, idk how i can angle it
Should I get 5h L and 3h or RGB or straight 8h of L?
all lum]
Do you have multiple clear nights lined up?
Id set up 2 parts to your imaging sequence, do like 10 or 20 loops of RGB, and then have it swap to lum for the remainder of the night.
Thats kinda how I set it up
Yeah do that
At the very least you get some color with lum instead of being left with an incomplete dataset.
Monochrome images can be complete datasets. 
THIS
@candid flame show the guys how a mono image can be a complete image
I know except ive had so may monochrome images lately that im sick of it. 
oh wait no im doing bubble
At this moment I'm a bit desperate to image anything 
the latest addition :)
but it's probably a deadly sin to share that in a thread called #1326833769495269376 lmfao
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE RASA USER GET OUT
I feel legally obligated to gatekeep sorry
I feel like we should actually have more threads for telescopes tbh, like you should be running the f/3 or faster club
i should make a flat reducer to reduce my coma corrector 
make my scope f3 at the cost of a corrected field size
What scope and cam do you have again?
6" f5 noot and a 585
cc brings it down to f4.5
i can either get a 0.75x cc or do something silly with lenses
What kind of Newt? And is it a 0.9x coma corrector?
(Mainly just need to know the central obstruction size or percentage)
its the skywatcher 150p and yea its a 0.9x cc
the corrector is only meant to go to f3.5 ish though
I mainly wanted to do a comparison of everyone's rigs' pixel etendue
do mine
also what does etendue mean
What's your optical train and camera?
6" f/5, 2.9 752 mm
So the idea is, f/ratio isn't actually speed for a few reasons: besides the presence of a central obstruction, your rig's effective speed also depends on the size of your pixels
The correct comparison of "speed" is the product of your light collecting area with your angular pixel scale
That is etendue
It also factors in the size of your rig as well
Larger rigs will be subject to less shot noise because they collect more light simply due to their larger physical area
i need a 1 meter f2 scope
Corrected pixel etendue calculations for the rigs of frequenters here, as well as some well-known telescopes:
My and @crisp flower's RC8/IMX533M at native focal length: 5750 mm² arcsec²
@digital nexus's and @tall summit's RC6 with Apertura 0.67x reducer/IMX533M: 9617 mm² arcsec²
@desert locust's 6" f/5 Newtonian/IMX585: 10189 mm² arcsec²
@tight lodge' Sky-Watcher 130PDS/IMX585: 10480 mm² arcsec²
@slate falcon's 6" f/5 Newtonian with 0.9x coma corrector/IMX585: 12578 mm² arcsec²
Hubble Space Telescope/WFC3: 12842 mm² arcsec²
@harsh matrix's RC8 reduced to 0.65x/ATR2600M: 13611 mm² arcsec²
JWST/NIRCam: 20279 mm² arcsec²
@tall summit's new Sharpstar 13028HNT-AL/ASI585MC: 26883 mm² arcsec²
@candid flame's 11" RASA/ASI6200MM: 89291 mm² arcsec² 
actually, now that I think about it, the better unit might actually be mm² rad², because you can omit a conversion factor for that
is arcsec² well defined as a unit of solid angle in general?
i thought we needed steradians for that
Yeah, we use it as part of surface brightness
but i mean 0.5" x 2" != 1" x 1"
what about my future 8" f/3.7 with a 585
ofc it is mathematically, but in terms of the solid angle that would equate to
and ofc it basically is true for small angles like an arcsec, but technically
Btw, if anyone wants to calculate it, the formula for etendue is
π * (r_primary_mm)^2 - (r_CO_mm)^2) * (RAD_TO_ARCSEC / 1000 * pixel_pitch_um / focal_length_mm)^2
with RAD_TO_ARCSEC = 206.26480624709637
What's the CO?
co?
fentral obfruxtuon
oh, obsruction
central obstruction size (either linear, area, %linear, or %area works)
73mm
or 36%
17873 mm² arcsec²
what would mine be if i had the 294c sensor?
4.63um pixels 
You can square any angular unit, it's just that steradians have the nice property of corresponding with the proportionality constant 4π in the surface area of a sphere
I guess you could derive a more sensible solid angle unit from the spherical circle with a radius of 1 arcsecond
32063 mm² arcsec²
what about mine?
hmm, maybe my intuition is just off
Sorry @desert locust pinged the wrong person:
17873 mm² arcsec²
anyways why pixel-etendue and not full sensor etendue lol
thats not bad tbh
is lower or higher better
That's also a useful measure, but if you're thinking in terms of "speed", pixel etendue is what you want to compare, since that doesn't depend on sensor size
Sensor etendue tells you more about how much total information you gather at once
and one more, what if it was f/3 with the same obstruction
is it oer pickle?
no, two patches with the same angle^2 size dont necessarily have the same solid angle
i mean i would argue that's what actually matters for a nice image, but that might be a longer discussion lol
I’ve been testing a revised prototype of the StellaLyra 4.5" f/4 Imaging Newtonian. Here’s what’s changed and a first look at some early test images.
First Light Optics (affiliate links)
StellaLyra 4.5" f/4 Carbon Fibre Imaging Newtonian:
https://www.firstlightoptics.com/stellalyra-telescopes/stellalyra-45-f4-m-lrn-d-carbon-fibre-imaging...
!!!
i think they made the mininoot usable
Higher is better, and the comparison is linear, so just divide the pixel etendues of two rigs to get a sense of their speeds
27187 mm² arcsec²
it has an R&P focuser???
wait a minute i just realized this is just pixel area divided by effective F ratio
jesus
now it makes sense for smol brain lmfao
Would this invalidate how I'm calculating pixel etendue?
gyatt damn
i dont think so because the FOVs here are pretty small, they are approximately the same
wait this is exactly what i was saying
maybe i'm not smol brain after all idk
is this a bad sensor amp glow aside https://player-one-astronomy.com/product/artemis-m-pro-imx492-usb3-0-mono-cooled-camera/
I'm trying to wrap my head around the correct approach to this, even if the corrections are practically nothing
now that i think about it, i think it depends on how you measure your angles
assuming bin2
because euler angles are not the way to measure the side lengths of the "square"
I think it will also depend on how the celestial sphere is projected onto a flat plane. For a pinhole camera it'll be a gnomonic/rectilinear projection
yeah it somehow makes the focal length not constant across the frame, or however you want to think about it
after the change my image sharpness has gone up so much
lets appreciate how silly my rig looks
the calculation I'm doing is strictly on-axis
yeah so you also don't have to worry about projections
there will be some falloff due to this effect, but I think vignetting and aberrations will be far more significant
anyways... full sensor etendue 
browi can you cook an onion with your scope?
caramelise them
make caramelised onions
maybe if i point it at the sun 
surely nothing bad would happen
nothing bad ever happens!
I think you can just multiply the pixel etendue by your pixel count
oh yeah ofc
my etendue is now 0
Which gets you 6.643212863670641e12 mm² arcsec², but I think that says it's time to pick new units
i accidentally unpluged my cam 
512594 mm² deg²
6.6km²arcsec² 
km in the unit is somehow actually hilarious
Meanwhile I'm at a measly 9502 mm² deg²
rasa vs RC moment
I can't believe you forgot about me

Absolutely devastated
I mean you're also working with a full frame sensor and I'm working with an IMX533
yeah that's true, but partly because the rasa has such a large image circle
Wait oops. What's your rig specs again (everything in your image train)? I assume you're still on a 585
In theory I could go up to full frame with a flattener
meet in the middle with an f/3.7 newt
5" reflector, 650mm focal length and yes, IMX585
Got a coma corrector in there?
And what's your CO size or %
It's a newtonian... yes I do 😅
is the focal length 650 with the corrector in? (and if not, what's the scale factor?)
26% linear, 8% by area
I lowk have to get the highspeed filters because f/3.7 is too much bandpass shift
huh
also I might go f/3
26%² = 6.76%
@tight lodge you've been added
Plus the mirror mask?
I assume you're masking the outer regions of the primary? How much of it?
Idk, I usually add an extra to the values. Even if that results in a number that is worse than the actual one
Uuuh, 650mm that's what ASTAP gives me😅
If you're masking 1.5 mm of radius then that would drop you down to 9968 mm² arcsec²
But there's more factors at play I haven't included, like transmission
also note that pixel etendue doesn't incorporate anything about resolution either
nop
maybe the entire area

I think I shot that

it was when I was untracked and the data was bad so I threw it out

yk its bad when some of my best photos are still my untracked ones
🥀
my best photo is my trapezium and i think we know why
trapezium?
its gonna be a while before I surpass that
vro
(simplicity of the target not the quality)
(and overshotness of the target)
its kinda overdone 
paint you need to get a 3d image of the dumbell nebula
doing the guessing
I gotta get cocoon data tho
truee
i love the cocoon because of how stupid it looks
I have a dillema with my filters
all of them all at once 
when I go mono i need to buy non highspeed filters because f/5, but when I get my 8" i need to get highspeed because f/3.7 which is annoying
hear me out, get wide filters like 6.5nm
but I really want 3nm
honestly just wait
or get the filters but dont use them
until you get the scope
but then I cant shoot nb
paint wadaya think of this thing
this image apparently has an arrow in it
cool but idk what that is
northern triffid 
cool
i like the blue streaks in it 
do you like the blue streaks 
(in the nebula not the walking noise!!!!)
are you gunna shoot all the abbel pne's
i honestly feel like i should
because it could be fun
nah, but I could help you if you want, would be a cool project
some of the dimmer ones would be very hard tho
i dont know when i will start
and the smaller ones
weve already shot 2
because they the stupid lemon looking things
3
abell 81, 13, whatever the lemon one is
whats 81?
that lil guy!!!
61 looks like 39 but dead
i will make a chart that i can put all my abells into
maybe just pne's in general
the question is
1.4 hours of HeII vs 30 mins of Ha
who will have the better snr
(most likely Ha)
ITS NOT EVEN CLOSE
What brand and please do no say ZWO
585MC Pro is a ZWO name so it is ZWO
But nowhere near the same pixel per arcsecond
Ik i was double checking cause sometimes people say that but they actually mean another camera
That looks really good
What did you use for the flats ?
and you fixed the light leaks on your decoupler when i rembemer correctly ?
Just ordered some screws to replace the Locking- and collimation screws of the primary to i can collimate it properly
Here 2h on the Wal Galaxy
Looking gooood
Better than Mine atm
Im gonna restart this one once i have the primary recollimated tho
Seeing wasn't good?
Thanks
Yeee A little bit off
Mine has blurx applied to it Looks better than it wouldve 
I only used wavelets transformation
Niiice
Nice setup
what did you use to add the mini pc/router to the radgoll
3m velcro
i bought a big roll of it
Oh
I installed my PC like this
ohh you used the screw from the polar adapter thing
i didnt have anything like that so i just used velcro
its stable enough and will come off if i need to move it'
Yeee
works quite well
If I have a 3D printer then I might print a platform to put things better there
I like this position for the pc on the mount
I need more data
Wow Looking good
Yeah, the little beelink adapter is nice
How much do you have?
5h of luminance and less than 2 of RGB😭
This is my main worry.
does there appear to be walking noise?
i think there's a little bit just barely seeping in now
i either need to dither every exposure or dither by more pixels
the weird thing is i see it worst on the right side, and not so much on the left side
when i shoot more lum, i can probably eradicate that by adding some better dithered data
i think there is
unless it's IFN, which is unlikely
yeah
i big dummy
thought i could get away with dithering every 2 3 minute subs but i cant
or i need to push the thing way farther when i make it dither
Maybe both
Here 46 minutes on m63
i see it streaking
Yeee
yeah
But I also edited it
i can fix it with some more data, dithered a lot better
also it was pretty windy that night so it's possibly whatever dithering was done wasn't done well, like the mount was being pushed back to where it was before the dither
it was bad enough that i tossed a good 20 or so subs
has anyone used an OCAL before
no but ive collimated using my guide cam and all sky lens
huh thats possible?
it works just as well and it is far cheaper
yes
my quattro has perfect collimation from me doing that
elaborate... i happen to have both of those things

with an RC tho?
it may or may not work with the RC
I have
generally everyone advises against collimating with OCAL or all sky lens on RC's because the primary and focuer are attached
you are the first and only person ive heard say that
also the center spot on the secondary marks the mechanical center and not the optical center
is probably the best solution if you don't want to or can't use stars
so most likely you will not achieve good collimation doing that
then how tf am i supposed to align my focuser
I say this because everyone who tries to bench collimate these things can't get it good enough to be usable so they all give up and sell the scope

you dont lol
as long as the focuser isnt way out it wont matter much
The primary is fixed on my CCT 🙏
well i cant use stars so im using the ocal
for RC's?
yes
i can understand it being a skill issue with a noot
have they shown any of their results to you?
no but i know 2 people who use them for RCs
guyysss left or right
i figured out how to brighten certain areas :3
i also got a bit of the reflections off the dark neb bc continuum
more int
bleh
i really should pump loads of int into it so i can get the hot af ifrared glow from the dark nebula
or try some cool galaxy
the glow is so hawt
I also know something else thats hot
galactic nuclei?
nah, me
fales
oh yea btw i already have the dark structure but not enough into to bring it out yummy
!!
its a cool galaxy group
is
fov with starizona
I know the RC copypasta is about laser collimators, but it seems like the OCAL is going to suffer from the same problem - too dependent on mechanical properties of the scope to be reliable
the ocal isnt a laser
Yes. But it depends on mechanical alignment
I’m terrible with the star Collimation
I make an adjustment, the star jumps a billion light years away. And I can’t manually slew since it’s a harmonic.
It’ll take me an hour to find the star again
So frankly the OCAL is my only bet or I’m selling the rc6 for a newt
thats why you do it in a star field!!!
Then the stars are too small
do it in a bright cluster then!!!
Not to mention when I’m doing the star test the seeing is atrocious and it’s impossible to get a precise reading on Collimation
How are you adjusting the collimation screws? If you're using a screwdriver with an Allen head, I highly recommend an Allen key instead
im using a allen key
with asiair at least, plate solving still works with a reasonably defocused stars, I just tell it to go back
ocal definitely should get you in a ballpark though
I am now hopefully prepared to Not lose this one in the Grass when im collimating the primary in half an hour
The plate solving I method doesn’t work great at high FLs, so combined with the defocused stars, there’s no chance
@frosty shard 
The artifact still remaining might be camera settings after all.
I'll give this a shot tonight.
Tomorrow night. 💀
The weather sucks tonight.
@frosty shard also did the flexture test with the DSD OFP2
no dice
it's actually 1:1 between flats on the left and right side of the meridian
will try a difference between at park and at zenith next
this is a completely uniform gray image btw
i tried more contrast but there's no difference
uh oh
we have a difference
will you ever be able to correct the rings?
no idea
most likely not because the nature of the vignetting is mechanical and not optical
it's too aggressive and sudden
yea
have you ever thought about a model to correct it?
i could try make one
No because I have no idea how to do something like that
If i could learn how, sure id do it in a heartbeat.
you could hand paint one 
Yeah
Has to be perfect though.
Okay big problem
Okay I need to rack everyone's brain
The parked flats differ from the right side and left side of pier flats
balck screen wuth blue line?
Taking a difference between those results in a difference that looks like this
Taking a difference between those differences results in a completely uniform image, even with a pedestal added.
i think thats close enough
Its a screenshot so I included the edge of the pix window by accident.
Ignore it.
aah
awh okayy
The reason I took a difference between the differences is because if it was somebody's light causing it, the direction of the problem should have changed.
Why it cancels out perfectly makes 0 sense.
So think
Why in the hell is this possible?
@tight lodge think
Think think think
Why
by any chance do you get any tilt from one side to the other side of the pier?
I'm thinking, maybe the whole rear end where the decoupler is attatced could flex slightly
i'm not sure how the mirror is held inside the tube
vel im trying to make one of some random screenshot you sent 
issue is the bright ring
thats between 2 dark pats
Maybe, there's juuuuust a small amount of tilt. not enough to show in the light frames, but just enough to screw up the flats
beh
Ive already suspected that which was the point of this test.
But I'm pretty sure it is showing up in the lights.
One set of flats should be enough to calibrate all of the lights if there wasnt some level of flex somewhere.
Also...
The mismatch in the center is always a left or right bias.
Never up or down.
@harsh matrix this is the best i could get with the png
Whatever it is is definitely directional.
bwaa
Not bad...
Can the mirror shift left and right in the cell?
No
It can barely move as is.
yea
Its supposed to be tight enough to have no play, but not so tight that you cant spin it.
I can spin it but it takes force.
A lot of force.
Yeah, it needs to float a bit
The way this scope was when I got it is you couldn't move it at all.
Ok... then we exclude flop
It was wayyyyyyyy too tight.
model looks like this
Oooo interesting.
its missing the weird lump on the left because i accidentally deleted it
Im going to the airport rn so when I get back home in an hour or so, do you want some raw data to experiment with?
no, this is how it looks accidentally made the subtract layer screen
How did you do that
Brushes?
a lotta stretches and a lotta gaussian blur
basically i removed the stars, clipped the whole image and then made 6 or so outlines of the gradient with a flat curve and pulling up the specific stuff i wanted
then some gaussian is applied
Then, my suspicion is something in the drawtube. Between the decoupler and camera
Do you have a dial indicator by any chance?
also this doesnt correct fully it just helps background extraction not go insane
how it looks before extraction
and then the after
No
Maybe it is the cut off i have in the aperture of the decoupler.
It's there to catch any leaks that may get around the focuser drawtube, but i didnt use new strips of flocking material to secure it.
It's more than plausible that it could have come loose again.

Dang
im sure i could with tweaking
i would need a flat corrected stack though i think
How we Feeling about the Center of m94?
@tight lodge I found a piece of flocking material, just the very corner of it, sticking off and over the very edge of the inside of the decoupler.
That was probably enough. 💀
I was able to pick the whole scope up by the focuser body and nothing moved, popped or snapped so... it's tight.
Very very tight.
The focuser CAN move laterally a small amount due to the beveled edge issue.
I was able to test it just now, but im not sure how much of an impact that will have without one more test.
best night ever so far. Just wanna flex a lil somethin something rq. Livestack for 20x60s subs on M81. And the best guiding I have ever seen with my setup.
This is sicc I was thinking about imaging M94
I brought the scope in to find whatever was moving, secured it in place, removed the flocking material that was in the way of the focuser, and still ended up with issues
however, the direction the rays of light come from is different every time
the neighbors had just about every light they could turn on, on
I think this may explain that
might need to repeat the test once they shut them off
Does the flat pannel move by any chance?
no
ive tested that
had no difference between when i was putting pressure on it and when i wasnt
i know
this whole scope is far too sensitive to small light changes
honestly this effect looks like the same diffraction/ray scattering and reflections I saw in my subs from that airbnb i stayed at in mid december
this really could just be the neighbors lights because porchlights is what triggered what i mentioned before
these all differ significantly from last night's test too
bruhhhhhhh
I want to so badly but i cant Guide on it 🥲
I have a theory
the flocking material actually mitigated any movement in the focuser
the second i removed that, it made the focuser move around easier
testing this right now by taking new flats now that the neighbors have all shut off their lights
YUP
I THINK IM RIGHT
NO LIGHTS WERE SHINING ON THIS RIG
YET STILL HAVE A MISMATCH
left and right are different
zenith and park are different
that means no combination will work
this is the difference between the differences
again no lights were on out there
this should have been no problem
the accidental flocking material unironically helped
@tight lodge I found it i think, pretty darn sure
What is it?
After repeating the same results i went out and checked the tightness of EVERYTHING.
Started man handling the camera
Put force up and down, left and right, and noticed excessive movement up and down.
Some left and right as well.
The drawtube is moving.

sounds like new focuser time
i didnt see the focuser body moving
it's possible it was
but the drawtube definitely was
now to see if i can prove it in results
the neighbor's lights were an issue
they caused an incredibly minor difference, but did not affect the central ring
both of these images are differences from the right side and left side of the pier with and without the neighbor's lights on
the only difference is some light rays from their porch lights
there's no difference in the center, my point of interest
this might be my smoking gun
at park, once again, light rays from their porch are the difference
and at zenith
moral of the story here is, the neighbors lights are a problem, they will give me bad flats with this flat panel, except that's not the primary cause of my problems here
it is the focuser moving around.
So something was moving as I suspected 
yes
as ive been confident of now too
Doesn't your focuser have some kind of tension adjustments?
yes afaik
i dont know how well that will work
Worth a shot until you get a sturdier focuser
im concerned about the body too
i had that piece of flocking material jammed between the decoupler and beveled edge of the body by accident which seems to have helped unironically
Finally got enough O-III data for a barely acceptable HOO image lmao
this is just stretched
blu
IHO preview
Ok... this has potential
yummy
Only if it wasn't green enough to reverse the global warming 💀
Whyyy
those outer regions are really interesting
Astro tax
Another interesting target is NGC 3718. could be a interesting target for you @tight lodge
I gotta say, I feel like I can collimate anything after my RC:) I was able to have a first light with f2.8 Sharpstar just after cheshire collimation
30sec sub with crap guiding
little tweaking on the actual star should bring it home
Smol but interesting
You ideally wanna get like over 5hrs minimum to get those 2 arms
Brother, by the next new moon I'll be happy if I get 5h of night at all😭
same 
@quartz meadow I have seen the tidal tails of NGC 3718 visually in my RC
thats crazy
I was absolutely not expecting them to be visible but they are
also that galaxy group down there is pretty neat
do you think my 6 incher will make them visible
or too smoll?
visual?
bisual
It might be possible - the real constraint on seeing them is dark skies (I was in Bortle 3)
and it was directly overhead
im just below bortle 4 at zenith
It might be doable. Don't use too much power
That was last year, but I think I was using my 21 mm eyepiece, so 70x, and importantly, 2.6 mm of exit pupil
Those kinds of details do not benefit from higher magnification
You probably want to use at least 2 mm of exit pupil
Ye, he does this thing where he looks trough the telescope 
You should try it sometime
Impossible
Over 1,000 people have tried it with my scope at this point
I converted my OTA into an astrograph😅
ill use my fancy flat field eyepeice 
ive only used it 3 times
i gotta put it to use!!
maybe i will try the pacman nebula
Okay that one is super tricky unless you have a photographic H-beta filter (like the Baader ones)
Even a 12 nm filter does not cut it
darn :(
all i got is a uhc
its also low in like the b7 zone, i just checked
i think N-Triffid would go hard visually
You might find this to be useful: https://www.prairieastronomyclub.org/filter-performance-comparisons-for-some-common-nebulae/
I thought the northern Trifid was in it but it's not sadly
gah
its one of the suber bright targets too!!
The results may be different if you're using filters with narrower photogrpahic bandpasses btw
is a 7nm quadband too far?
has hbeta halpha oiii and sii

Which filter exactly?
I find it's better to have a bandpass that's too narrow than one too wide; despite what a lot of visual observers think the narrower O-III filters are very good despite dropping 25% of the signal
buh
amma go with a mid range quadband then
a mid range quadband would go hard as luminance data 
The 7 nm filter would probably work better on tougher targets
Like the Veil when that's up
im not a visual sorta person tbh
Me when I saw the Veil Nebula in a 16" Dobsonian with a 7 nm dual narrowband
(and everyone else at the star party)
Depends on your darkness of sky
ofc
@tight lodge I tried the idea you and Benny had, tensioning the rack some more, made no difference.
I did find it was extremely loose and the focuser wanted to slip in general, but tensioning the rack still made no impact.
The drawtube moves a lot.
New focuser time.
Isn't it an RnP focuser?
I was expecting to be sturdier
@silver ibex recently got a focuser that actually might be worth every penny
Is one of em fancy EAFs from Prima Luce Labs I think
And in the future I might invest in ESATTO 2"
Me too
Which it is if you pressure the drawtube directly
You cant make it move
But with my big and heavy imaging train?
If you use that entire thing as a lever arm, like how gravity will act on it? It moves quite a bit.
Im actually surprised there's that much room for play in there even with the linear bearing on top.
For some reason my focuser is sturdier than the tube rings in my case😂
Oh an Esatto?
I think that would be fun and cool
It would definitely fix everything.
But.
Yep, he got the 3" for like 600$ or something 
I don't have over 700 USD to spend on one right now.
Bro what
He stole it.

For real
Luckily I did happen to get the extra day of work i asked for
Which was today
So I get a massive paycheck next week, and a full paycheck from last week despite having most of the week off because of PTO.
I can compensate a little, AND I can sell the rack and pinion to make some of that back.

What focuser you're going for?
Baader Diamond Steeltrack
mostly because it has an adapter I know will work and everyone who has one says they have no give
I cross my fingers that will finally bring you back in business
yeah
We really need you back in business. This server kinda forgot what a sharp image looks like
@frosty shard
this upgrade aint so upgrade
for an imaging train of my bulk anyway
I believe it will be low enough profile to thread the reducer on directly
I might downgrade to the 2" though. I realised that the 2" is going to be far easier to use with the scope that I want
i would have liked to put that money into the 3 nm Sii filter I'm missing but it is what it is
that filter wont be much of any good if i dont fix the focuser flop
That's also a good one afaik
it sounds like the perfect focuser
lol
no light leaks
rock solid
could probably sit on your imaging train and it wont sag

Maybe the FT is better lol, just $$$
This thing has 8kg of payload btw
only?
It's a lot, I couldn't get an imaging train to be 8kg if I wanted to
oh apertura doesnt list a payload limit on the listing for the focuser i have
red flag

that's probably why i have issues ngl
okay that's probably true lmao
im not being fair
okay the Diamond Steeltrack is on par
not exactly the same
but close

my imaging train is probably 5 or 6 pounds
it's not light
but not excessively heavy either
Ah yeah I can change the preload too. Can probably push it to 10kg if someone wanted to
okay
so we'll see how this thing does
I'm excited
I don't feel bad about the purchase yet

I think mine is slightly lighter, but similar
I think it's going to be good, I've heard good things
yeah I think it'll be good too
im going to have to start selling old gear again
😂
i do think this will fix every problem that remains
unironically
and I think that when it does, I will have a rig that I trust for the next 2+ years
I'm genuinely hyped
ngl i kind of want to wrap the RC cause i messed up the clear coat on the carbon on the upper right side of the scope 😭
I didn't really follow the entire debugging process, I just saw a wall of text from you every couple of days 😭

it's good you didnt follow
the majority of everything i tried was immediately in the garbage
pointless
useless
a lot of effort for nothing
very nearly sold the scope until I was finally able to isolate issues, and diagnose them separately
it wasnt even until last week when i was able to separate this focuser issue from the decoupler leaking light
the focuser problem was so bad that i mixed the light leak problem in with the focuser problem even though they were not the same thing at all
I thought the tube was at fault for all of it
this experience has taught me a very valuable lesson, I learned a lot, and this is the sort of reason why I have the amount of patience that I do 
So at the end it's was just a bad focuser?
You did flock a shit ton of stuff too though
yup
exactly
everything I did only eliminated possible causes until the only thing left to check was the focuser
not just the focuser, but the build of the focuser
the build of the focuser isn't rock solid enough, at least for the size of imaging train I am using
to add insult to injury, the focuser being an inherently GSO design means it was flawed from the start
GSO makes okay focusers
but not ones that I'd say are worth imaging with.
if you want to upgrade, do it right
Yeah, shitty focusers seem to be the manufacturers' favourite way to save money
and shitty focusers disguised as a good focuser is the manufacturers' favorite way to make money


Pretty much, although I think that GSO RCs are fairly priced. I would love an RC but it's hard to find a medium-high end manufacturer, it's either GSO or straight up PlaneWave 😭
yes
I think that's an issue too
I would love to fix it personally but I am not in a position to start a new company 
The easiest thing would be to keep using GSO mirrors as they seem Good Enough™ and just overhaul the mechanics completely
yup
do what the i saw on facebook did
take the mirrors out
design a completely new tube
problem solved

That does it 
So other people got the same issue?
yes
you can see it everywhere
theyre most often using the stock focuser
like Limepie in here is
@slate falcon so the entire drawtube was shifting
that means the edges of my frame were not aligning
which is probably why I have that vignetting that NEVER corrects
it might correct mostly or entirely with a new focuser.
If that's the case, then I'm in danger again

not only in danger
but in danger of getting absolutely destroyed come summer time
because my seeing will be busted
Wait until I get my fat 10"
😭
On the 150i??
Ye
For a fact I know that the 150i I up for the task. That mofo almost bent the tube rings. A 10" is nothing for it
It's more about wind tbh
For example I know that my mount can do 12" easily, wind is a bit rough though
I learned the weather patterns. Usually I don't even bother to image if earlier that day was cloudy
Another target I should consider
draco triplet is a great choice
@harsh matrix so i got my focuser on without the tilt plate. I just racked it out more. So it won’t be able to rack all the way in, unfortunately. Il have to be careful with my EAF
Hopeful I can reach focus
fingers crossed
And I’m gonna collimate it with the ocal tomorrow
Any triplet but Leo triplet is a great triplet
I mean the Hamburger is kind of interesting because of the jet tbf
How I could frame it
How I will frame it
mosaicing would be mandatory if i get the scope i want to have 
Naah, I won't mosaic it. I'd rather spend extra time on one region and do it good
I don't care about the other two galaxies
I mean, just wait until the feed in #1127675764356173885 gets filled with only Leo Triplet
You will start to hate it as well😂
oh i have started already 😂
Oh, you got the expensive one
What's the rig you want?
Mosaics are fun to process tbh
meowsaics are the greatest
good luck
soo the plan is that I'll get a 10" newt, EQ6-R pro and 533 mono cam or I could strap on my 6d Mk II for full frame and nicer sampling?
Good luck finding a proper CC for full frame
You could go 8", the improvement in stability is going to be noticeable imo, at F/5 you have good sampling
There you go... that's why I hate FF cameras. The sensor is amazing, yes... but good luck getting a telescope that can correctly project on that sensor😭
You have good sampling with the 533 I mean
I would go full frame but my wallet simply dislikes the idea 
APS-C it is then
0.77 over 0.64"/px doesnt sound like much of a difference to me
but the stability thing is a good point
You could also go 10" F/4 and get the same focal length, if you are willing to suffer with the collimation 
The difference between 0.77 and 0.64 is significant imo, at 0.64 you are not oversampled only if you get 2" seeing
I was looking at a 10" F/5 well technically 4.8 the other day
Is that the juicy CT10 from OOUK?
No, its a old skywatcher 10" that has been serving in a local observatory
help
@frosty shard maybe you can help me
So I collimated, and then rotated the ocal using my focuser’s rotator, and boom instantly the black area inside the red circle was moving all over
what do I do 
That's the focuser being mechanically misaligned with the optics. You can't truly fix it without decoupling.
Maybe tilt plate?
If you align with the tilt plate and then rotate the focuser, it's going to go out again.
The trick is to keep the focuser fixed and align everything then.
Don't rotate the focuser.
So I can’t rotate my camera then? wtf
You can rotate the camera, but not the focuser
And my rotator is on the focuser so
So you can loosen the camera and rotate it like that
What
My imaging train doesn’t do that
The rotator is on the focuser, and that moves the entire focuser
How is your camera attached to the telescope?
m48 pretty sure
Or you can rotate your camera
You just have to recollimate for whatever rotation you want to use. 
Or adjust the tilt
Pick your poison.
That's what I'm saying!
Or you don't rotate
The entire imaging train is screwed in, where is there to rotate the camera
then there's the possibility that like the CYCK focuser on my Quattro, the rotator on your focuser has introduced tilt and that's what triggered the misalignment

so many possibilities
Well... I'm glad that I rotate my camera manually like a peasant
Or sometimes I don't and I shoot in equatorial mode
Fine example of not bothering with camera rotation
Perfect framing
The issue is that when you rotate the focuser, you will create a misalignment between the camera and the secondary mirror
If you set the tilt for the focuser using the tilt plate, you undo whatever tilt adjustment you made for the focuser by rotating it.
Then you add on a misalignment with the secondary mirror because that will go out too, it creates a huge headache.
It sounds like it is going to be an unavoidable one for you.
I have a baader click lock for my current focuser which lets me avoid this headache for now.
It might be a different story once my Baader Steeltrack arrives as I intend to thread my imaging train on directly. 
There are no steeltrack compatible click locks available right now.
I think I'm the one with allegedly the worst focuser and yet the most reliable one😂
a bunch of people in the Nate decoupler thread have an RC like mine
plain carbon tube with no branding
you have a " " rc thats kinda cool 
thats really sexy
The best looking ones ngl. No branding, nothing
Welp
Im working more hours than I bargained for next week

Maybe I get the Sii filter with next week's paycheck
My job fired me 
why
Did you caused a lot of damage atleast?
no.
they fired me cause so they can’t exploit anymore
grr
be more exploitable
Ive been doing 1300s exposures with my quattro
Got pin point stars most every night.
Doesn't work too well on the grass.


That's unironically what makes it trail at all
yeaa ive had that issue
grass randomly decides it wants to compress a bit more
It's surprisingly variable.
verybibl
if the wind causes trailing in this 30 min sub i may cry
That's why I put my body weight on the tripod before setting up
i just setup on concrete 
I have stupid EPDM
wat!
i dont speak shorted ed
whats an epdm?
300s lest to see horrendousness
ahhh
big problem is the cg shift while tracking messes up my pa
might put some wood under my tripod to make it better
its pretty easly fixable
gonna order the nexus rn
get an f/4 and reduce to f/3
alert, mystery plant also sprouting(idk what it is, I think its either tomato or cantelope)
plan (plant)
Sorry to hear that man
im not
they gave me 5 hours every 2 weeks lmaoo
What do you do professionally?
well im not even "fired" but a silently fired
cashier
and im student teaching which is a 40 hr per week internship
so i dont even want to work
@digital nexus maybe bite the bullet and get this Apertura focuser? You'll be compatible with everything, have rotation etc. These come stock on Carbonstars, I have zero complains on mine. https://www.highpointscientific.com/apertura-eaf-ready-rack-pinion-linear-rail-focuser-6-8in-rc-and-cassegrain-telescopes?utm_campaign=&utm_content=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=APT-LRP2-RC&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=17934693297&utm_content=139942520099&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17934693297&gbraid=0AAAAAD-khUYUVIYuJqRZD-X7gnfiYgjRb&gclid=CjwKCAjw-J3OBhBuEiwAwqZ_hzujmZcbsgjFw7EKkb8sOo0vUkI8Na0FH5f4yJlaUbO075EuAYWJNhoCC1oQAvD_BwE
The precision Apertura EAF Ready Rack and Pinion Linear Rail Focuser provides astrophotographers with an indispensable upgrade for six to eight inch Ritchey-Chrétien and Cassegrain telescopes, allowing for finely nuanced focusing both visually and photographically of the heavens' deepest reaches. Engineered with a dexterously calibrated rack-an...
id rather sell the rc6 and buy a newt then put anymore money into this thing
Sucks that its not working out
i dont see how anyone can recommend an RC
im giving up
this is the best i can do
those spider veins are just not gonna align
I certainly had a few nights of desparation with it. It looks pretty good though on the collimation, you should be within just a minor primary tweak (if any) to center a defocused donut
ltitlitlt?
thoughts?
i cant get the veins aligned
Dont worry about it
the veins are a rotation thing. Whats it matter
It’s as good as a Collimation il get. I’m not gonna try and mess with it on a star
Of course clouds will ruin my imaging session
I have an opening till 1-2am
Planing to star collimate my new newt
@digital nexus whats the first target?
unfortunately not m100
Me and super are doing m100 as a project collaboration, but it won’t rise before clouds arrive
So I’m probably gonna do M81
You have no reducer right? And what sensor?
I’m using the reducer 0.67. And a 533
Nice, fairly zoomed in
RC + reducer 
newt+ reducer
RASA 
poor mans apsc
this fuckin thing
only a 27% loss of light

its f1.8~ if you account for co
poor mans rase
how's the spot diagram?
please tell me you meant to spell rasa 
yea
doesnt quite compete with asskar off axis, on axis it is better aaand f5 or whatever vs f1.5 is a humongous difference
(mine is on the right)
also, no the spots are not triangle!!!
they are more rounded off
they are actually more like askars
i already dont recommend a 6
and the reason youre frustrated is the same reason everyone else who bench collimated their RC gave up
bench collimating these isn't possible without a decoupled primary mirror and focuser
and tbh, i dont even think they should be bench collimated under any circumstance
you cant get the necessary precision because GSO's mechanics suck
how would you know if you've only used it once?
I’ve tried to collimate twice with stars
I’m not doing it again

