#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 36 of 1
No because I genuinely expect no change but I can try that while I image tonight since I am still willing to bet it wont change anything. 
No because I genuinely expect no change but I can try that while I image tonight since I am still willing to bet it wont change anything. 
Have to completely rule out light leaks one way or another
If it's a light leak you can rejoice, if it's not a light leak time to cry
There's a double layered black trash bag covering the back half of the tube all the way to the camera now.
If calibration still fails...
We did our best.
just realised this thread has more messages than #1020657687291252797
next most is planetary imaging
If only I can get my hands on it smh
what
don't ask

I feel like half of the messages is troubleshooting with Veloren
Defo
me malding about how nothing works
getting baited by the scope randomly working for a single night
then going back to not working again

that's the circle of life atm
the bermuda triangle
speaking of issues
the RC reverted to triangle stars after the af run i forced
no idea why it chose to do that
it never ends
So I've been working on a little something...not done yet but I wanted to share it with some people on Discord and I canceled Nitro so I need to upload it somewhere that lets me embed it lol
The bag caused a snag
The worst part is that I tested the config briefly last night and didnt catch anything worrying.
@runic violet the trashbag did not save it
@crisp flower it's over
i dont have a clue what the dark spots are
i cant locate them in the lights or calibration frames
Xdddd
it could be light scatter from the secondary mirror
like the surface is too rough
folks are telling me i should contact GSO and try to get another secondary to test
hmmm maybe
are u willing to?
i guess?
im extremely demoralized rn
dont really want to try
i feel ya.. i just tried to edit my C21 and the ring is kust succh a pain to work around
really too bad as the fov on ur m51 looks so sick as well xd
yeah
the saddest part about M 51
is that it looks amazing
genuinely pretty good data despite the awful seeing and high winds
yea

had to push the blackpoint so much it hurt
i tried getting rid of it a little with the clonne stamp
same here
Maybe i get the 533 to Work on the roki
i pray i dont get these issues when i get the rc6
It's worth noting that with the trash bag double layered, I expected a very small amount of light to still get through the bag. No. It was totally opaque
I couldn't even see the sun through it so...
once I get around to it I'm gonna stack all of my frames from last night's data and see if that artifact shows up
Unfortunately, most of my frames are absolutely useless
The Orion Nebula data is fine, but it clouded up after I switched to NGC 2403
you wont see it on orion
No I'm stacking my clouded out NGC 2403 frames

try a stack with and without flats to see what it looks like
Yeah it'll give me an idea of whether the artifact is present and to what extent
this is what im going to expect the no flats to look like
no flats without registration*
Lmao I have a stupid idea: take the scope out on a cloudy night and just point it directly up
take a bunch of data
I wouldn't be wasting any imaging time
i think another reason you dont see it or at least notice it, is you dont use the noise reduction tools we have
so you might not be digging deep enough below the noise floor to know if it is there or not
once you see it you cant unsee it but it's hard to see in the first place if you dont know it is there
if it's totally absent or more uniform than mine or limepie's, it might indeed be a mirror scattering issue
I also haven't been able to get long enough integrations on dim targets as of late
oh that too
I meant to mention that you don't get long integrations on much either
It would probably have been noticeable on my IC 10 data if it wasn't for the massive issue from the reflective adapter
the crater doesnt manifest obviously without several hours of data
it's always there with less but it's nearly impossible to pull out when the data isn't deep
It does show up quicker on a high moon phase right?
usually, yes
well, considering how bright clouds are here, I should be able to capture it if I just aim up on an overcast night
I also want to do this to see if my flat panel is actually uniform
yes
this is true
i was able to capture it by imaging clouds
it has to be very overcast though
to the point where detail in the clouds is invisible becaue they blend together
although maybe not in your case considering small sensor + native focal length
That has been plenty of nights here lol
And when it's not cloudy, it's windy!
Though I will say. When I did public astronomy on campus last time, there was cirrus all over the place but the seeing was phenomenal
me last night lmfao
i think 30 MPH wind gusts or so
i probably should have set up a little later than I did cause that was sketchy as hell
i thought my AM5N and my fixed quattro were going to hit the ground
Pleiades through light Clouds with the roki is Kind of cute
When you think the Pleiades' reflection nebulosity is insufficient
Look at all of the nebulosity!
f2 is crazy
ive seen california nebula in a 5 sec sub through clouds
Only disadvantage i'll have is that i am restricted to Luminance as i cannot use my Filterwheel with this setup
Hm
Yo, painted on the left, flocked on the right.
Painting did significantly reduce the intensity.

I think this confirms it is an issue with the baffling.
The reason being that the paint is doing a better job of absorbing incoming light and not scattering it.
Or thats what one would think?
The flocking material still looked pretty bright despite being pretty good at dampening light tbh.
Weird.
we getting somewhere?
Not really
There's nothing else I can try if im right.
Ive done everything I can.
what about sky flats
The above image on the left was sky flats.
Thats all im going to take for this last round of testing as well because they are what used to work best.
seems to improve the ghost lens thing
also try reacoating mirrors or smt
Not sure that was due to sky flats alone.
Tonight im doing the exact same test but with all of my 3D printed hardware removed.
I dont expect a major difference outside of a lack of what the knife edge baffles may have been causing.
Tbh the goal i have right now is to revert it back to how it was calibrating when I shot NGC 891
The luminance filter issue caught me completely by surprise and it might be worth trying it in the original configuration before drawing any final conclusions here.
show
also as there anything that you did that night that was even slighly different, like cleaning a filter or smt
No
If anything i let it get extremely filthy.
put the filter in your air filter im dead azz
This ended up being the lum filter stack I used for that image.
This used panel flats because the sky flats result was actually horrendous.
Like, very very bad.
This stack is almost perfect by comparison to what I have right now.
That's what's got me so suspicious atm.
try panel flats then
There's some dust motes from the filter and stuff but I think i found the problem.
that could br it
what
Im going to use the tracing panel most likely
The folding flat panel i got hasnt really worked.
I put it on today because the rig balances perfectly with it.
I cant get it to balance properly without it.
The luminance filter came loose within the 2" filter mount.
Which i didnt know until I finally cleaned the filter a couple of weeks ago.
I have absolutely no idea how long it's been like that for
have you been able to image scince
It doesn't explain why the 533 was still having dust mote issues but it may explain why the 571 didnt and then suddenly did.
Only twice.
Last night and about 3 weeks ago.
wait, try like moving around your flat panel to recreate the ghost lens thing, i feel like at a certain distance it would show up
or mess with focus idk
I could potentially play around with this tonight.
I have no idea how id do it and seeing whether or not the ring that makes the crater is present is very hard without DBE'ing the flat.
im talm bout the ghost lens
also place the panel on wall and move scope
unintended joke lol
Yeah I challenge you to move this around.
It's only a meager 70 or 80 pounds.
Should be no problem.
no, I mean set the scope on the floor and put the panel on a wall resting on the floor, move it backward while taking flats at increments to see if it shows up
There's no way I can power everything and do that.
It would be much easier if I just held it and walked forward or backward with it lol
wdym, its just the flat panel and the camera
if so then do that
Yeah
The camera has a short power cable lol
And it has to be plugged into a computer
Which also has to be powered.
use a laptop then
run firecapture or smt
I can see the donut of death in the lum flats using my DSD OFP2
I saw people on the book face talking about how they needed to do long flats to average out the ring enough to calibrate.
So im going to take 1 second flats, which became the standard with this imaging train after I got the OFP2, and 2 and 3 second flats.
I am going to test every avenue I can
Sometime tomorrow, if i have a chance, ill try to tracing panel as well, different distances with that too, and then I will take sky flats after the sun comes up to. I wont take them anyway, the rig will be programmed to take them.
did any of my advice help?
Not yet.
ok
Going to probably attempt this tomorrow instead.
but we are getting somewhere right? you see the lens
I see it no matter what happens so yes.
oh
so then why is it not correcting in flats?
That's the million dollar question lmfao.
That's what we've been trying to figure out the entire time. 😭
try longer flats
instead of 1-3 sec, do like 60-180 sec
why
It will expose too quickly no matter what id do.
Flats shouldnt be more than 5 seconds max anyway or something is very wrong.
what about lcg mode?
The gain mode needs to match the lights or nothing will work so thats off the table.
can i see what the flats look like
this is what the sky flats from this morning looked like
oml wtf
the spots that were black in the test data from last night were stars in the sky flats
how did this thing see stars after the sky was supposed to be opaque
💀
i feel like your flats need to be less noisy and show the ring better
so idk, more flats
take like a ton and see what happens
i take 25 as is
try like 100 idk, could make a difference
the more things you test, the more you rule ouy
You know, that bright center looks oddly similar to what I got from my RCT simulation 
oh yeah wtf
it even looks inverted
in the center
like what im seeing
wait, are the flats over correcting or undercorrecting the lens?
i think the flats are undercorrecting the crater and are over correcting everything else
Ok, the reason why the spider casts a shadow is because blender simulates light as a particle and not as a wave
that's cringe
but i dont mean the spider
i mean the ring
i can see an inversion in the center of the bright spot in the middle
What if you literally invert that image? 
could be smart
it wouldnt have the intended effect, id give you that much
I mean
it would add to the problem,
So you think that the secondary diverging cone could be a reason for the funky flats?
In this simulation I don't have off axis illumination. Everything is on axis
This looks much better
uhhhh
hm
Imma try off axis tonight, if you remind me😂
nvm there's no inversion
that's really confusing
it either is a biproduct of off axis light or some behavior of light acting like a wave
vro, take like 100 flats and see if it changes anything
that isnt present in blender because it is being simulated as a particle
i have it set to do that before sky flats in the morning
ill tell you rn you wont see a difference
the only way you can is if i have some light frames to calibrate with them
why, I feel like the ring would be more prenpunced
also do you have the flats from when you shot 891 and got good results
yes
i would say because the ring is already about as developed as your eyes will notice by 25 or 30 flats
beyond that the difference will be near immeasurable without something to check against
reuse them
that wont do me any good
becuse of filter shift?
also what did they look like
because i cleaned the filter and the camera and because i think the filter was loose then, and because collimation is way different, and because the entire inside of the OTA is completely changed etc.
lots of reasons
NGC 891 flat on the left, and tonight on the right
and NGC 891 used a tracer panel
i just noticed you can see the crater in the NGC 891 flat
like actually the whole structure of it
wtf
thats from better snr on flats
also see how the angle the light hits the camera at changes between the two?
that's because the filter was loose in NGC 891
and i think that confirms it
that doesnt make any sense but okay
both batches were 25 each and if anything NGC 891 would be worse by your logic since they were only 0.01s long
the ones tonight were 1 second long
do more flats so the ring is better defined
still use 1-3 sec flats
I dont want to demoralize Here but the skyflats i took were between 1-6 Seconds Long and the difference they Made was 0
Here 8h Luminance no Calibration Frames
this is where it stands right now after having removed the 3D printed stuff
it's quite a bit better in a lot of respects
this is with 1 second flats from the flat panel
i suspect continued calibration troubles will be do to a lack of parallelism between the primary mirror and flat panel
this is why i want to take sky flats, and why i would like to retest the tracer panel and not use this flat panel
did you put it the wrong way?
no lmfao
there's no way you can put flocking material inside and make it stick of you put the side with the adhesive facing toward the center of the baffle tube
Have you communicated with manufacturers about your Donut thingy ?
They probably know why this is happening
i have asked a distributor about it before
they had no idea what it was or why it happens
Damn
nor do they know anything about fixing it
That surprises me
ask the distributor who the designer was
then ask the designer
GSO obviously
but GSO doesnt respond to inquiries
you can try
gso is the manufacturer
but dont expect a response
not the designer
good luck getting ahold of a designer
yes 
no diff
did you use bge ?
there's a reflection in the bottom right in the 3 second
this
this is most likely due to the very small gap between the panel part of the flat panel, and the clamp of the panel
it could be a factor as to why it doesnt calibrate my stuff, but most likely, not bad enough to be the sole factor here
yes
Which BGE tool do you use?
Ahh ok

I use Graxpert with zero Smothing
graxpert has too much variation in the results
for comparisons like what im doing here
Yea
it doesnt always output the same thing which can trick you into thinking something changed due to flats when it really didnt, it was just the way the extraction was done
yee
I just mean that Graxpert can compensate for the calibration problems
It can remove or reduce them up to a certain point
I know that's not the real point of that
Is the light of your panel is collimated ? I mean, are the light rays parallel between them from the panel ?
From bge
I wouldnt have an answer to that
So, why do you want you're pannel parallel to the primary mirror ? 
Idk if any flat pannels actually do that😅
It's a matter of having the light source far enough so off axis rays get blocked
Because there's a chance the problem has to do with a difference between the light from the sky and the light from the panel but I am spit balling. If there's a chance it makes a difference, right now is when it matters most.
That was rhetorical
Well, it's actually a serious matter😂
Especially with newtonians
What's up with the thumbs up?😭
I agree ^^

It annoys me 😭
I find it more friendly and wholesome to insult me
peice of shit!!!!
I had this kind of problem with a camera lens. When I used a white screen, the flats were different than the one from the sky
you said you find it frendly and wholesom 
they are yea
Could it be rolling shutter effect? Most flat pannels are PWM controlled. I'm thinking if the flats are too short you get this kind of phenomenon 
that can be it depending on the source
When we do flats, it is complicated. Because when you acheive a certain SNR, every little difference can ruin it....
Like the difference in luminosity compare to the night sky, the camera settings, etc
Think about it. The flat pannel is illuminated from the rim. That could create a doughnut kind of shape.
the OFP2 i have is made for astro though and was extremely pricey, I doubt it will have a flicker issue especially at 1 to 3 second flat frame lengths
Nah, the flats were litteraly different. Even the dust spot moved 
Then that was the astro leprechaun sabotaging
sorry i wanted to move it
okayyyyyy
the stack from last night doesnt look good
with sky flats

not to mention it got more stars in the flats
i have a fix
i probably wouldnt care
if this didnt show up in the color too
but it does
and it makes my galaxies have weird looking halos
that you cant fix
look, no issues!
i didnt pay for a big sensor not to use it
wheres the halos?
i was joke 
right there in the middle
a
your guess is as good as mine
it's always been an issue
nothing ive tried works
as is the same case with the middle so
buh
there doesnt appear to be any dust...
which is.
interesting.

the 533 was still having dust mote issues regardless of what i tried until i swapped to the shorter baffle extension i made
but this is the stock extension
hmm
another thing im sus about is the secondary
it's not as tight as i think it should be because tightening it more was causing the entire field to be astigmatic in focus
so im not even certain if what im observing is not flexture in some form
hmmmmm
why dont you tighten the middle screw so its tighter but wont push the secondary out more?
bit risky
because it's possible that will cause a shift in mirror spacing, enough to where my near perfect field atm is going to be really bad again
trueee
and the center screw is a phillips head for some reason
you could push the screws out like a fraction of a mm then pull the middle in a fraction of a mm
so getting enough leverage to move it without stripping the head when it may already be tight is going to be very hard
oh yea
idk why we still use a screw made to strip

like yea it prevents over tightening but at what cost 
the cost of never getting it out again
thermite 
Hmmm
@slate falcon see anything weird?
cause i dont
i think the OAG on my quattro was leaking light
not sure if it was making it to the 533 but it was affecting the 585
i electrical tape origami'd that sucker up 
can you see somthing ?
besides the stars
i did not use darks
but in the center of the stack do you see anything ?
no
but the quattro isnt going to have the same artifact as my RC lol
gimme sec
looks good
yee
exactly

for Paint's sake im going to do the 100 flats thing
just so they will stop begging me to do it

i find the crater isnt as severe with a reducer
it's totally unavoidable at native though 
A reducer is No Option for me
I want the native fl
Maybe i'll Go for a big newt
A 250 or 300p idk
very fair
if i can make this thing work i might get a 1x flattener, but the speed is hard to pass on.
in my skies anyway
Relatable
if i was in bortle <5 id run native ngl
Yea its very fun ngl
Tho the f2 Run Last night was very much so as well
that's the hard part about being in bortle "it looks like it's still twighlight out at midnight" 
Xdddd
Idk If a 300 would be a Bit of an Overkill But i am tempted to try ngl
im going to upload a comparison between the 25 flat stack and 100 flat stack as well
just to prove the point that "flat SNR" and number of flats will be irrelevant and not possible to distinguish
Might be interesting
Im Just gonna say as a warning, im still gonna annoy ppl in this Channel even when im Not owning a rc
oh hey it's almost like i predicted that the number of flats i take wont matter

it's much worse than the sky flats result tbh
100 on the left, 25 on the right
same order
no difference
except a difference in angle of illumination or something weird af
@slate falcon could this be the secondary moving?
right was taken with the scope pointed at the target i was imaging
left was taken with the scope parked
whaat the left image has the secondaries glow to the right
so to the left
orrrrrrr
it could be
if its only held by one side yea
and it's definitely not perfectly level relative to the primary
bc if it tilts it will have the secondary shadow move with it
in theory the whole thing is grabbing the entire front of the scope
in practice it's not a tight enough hold
can you wiggle it when its on the front?
that's one of my primary complaints about this panel
normally i can break it loose by putting more pressure than just a finger on it
the worst part is ive put pads of flocking material and tape on both the inside of the tension ring of the panel and the outside of the scope to improve grip
which this did work but i dont think it's enough
it might be flexing enough to produce a difference at the camera but it's not enough for me to see
assuming light pressure is applied to it
if i push on it enough it will move
can you take flats while weighting one of the sides?
by pointing the scope straight up
and putting something on the corner
bc that would show movement
this is the sketchy thing
i can probably make it fall off if i did that

i can test all of this tonight

i have to go get ready for work tho so no more brain storming atm
work storming
This is why I want to give that tracer panel another shot.
oki
wild guess but could the focuser or something be shifting which is causing the flats to be slighty missaligned?
Yikes look at the drastic difference. 💀
the big ring around the outside is in 2 parts in the corrected image, but in the flats its uniform
Possibly
The testing tonight may be able to eliminate that as a possibility.
what does the uncorrected image look like
Dont know
Didn't make a stack like that
Can't do it until tonight.
@frosty shard i can use a paracor with the class cass!!!!
silver sliver galaxy?
I attempted it at 1675mm with a mono 585 sensor. Turns out collimation was worse than I thought. Could never get the colors right so I just gave up. And heres lum. 16Hrs Lum, 50Min Red, 2.5Hrs Green, 5.67Hrs Blue. I now remember why I cant get the color right 😄
Yes
Cause the color channels are not even close in integration. 
🙄
Its fine, with new collimation, still need to touch up on the secondary just a hair, I will have a better sensor for this scope, better collimation, and a better mount
mf the collimation isnt as bad as the lack of similar colour gathering
you need to actually have ballanced colour channels!!!
5 hrs of blue and only 50 mins of red
is just asking for it to be impossible to have good colours

-# i will also say that collimation is bad but you need to work on ballancing your int
Ik, like I said, ive got a way better image train now than before. Back then I was jumping around to different targets to often. Caused me some problems
That was captured back in october last year when I first got the scope.
you know, velorens rc issues have steered me away from them
imaginee
amma get a carbonfiber rc :3c
imma get a carbon fiber newt
thats why im not buying too many upgrades for my scope and mostly for my cam and stuff
same, going mono soon, so I gotta prepare
@harsh matrix is this a decoupler or am i stoopid
honestly the choice is so hard between a class cass and a rc
i got that yea
its small rc issues. Gotta get the big truss rcs.
i also realise im not a fan of slow scopes
understandable. If I could get a 750mm scope at f3 for cheap I would.
Not a decoupler
the secondary diff is so big
im guessing its still worth right?
why does the cc have about the same size secondary as my scope
It wasnt for me.
aa oki
It's only worth it if your focuser is so bad that it's not mechanically aligned close enough to be usable.

guys, hear me out
the focuser on this looks so comedic
I had to get one for mine. It was off a good bit. But that fixed it right up
if i get a class cass im prime focus modding it anyways
I assume classical cassegrain is what your saying?
ya
No clue what prime focus modding would be tho.
making it so theres no secondary mirror
but a camera instead
Oh, so its like a hyperstar for sct but instead your just putting the camera in the center
I gotta look this stuff up. One sec
thats why i said you should get a 8" lol
Doesnt classical cassegrain need a corrector for flat field? Or does the prime focus mod put a lens optic in front of center
Cassegrain as in Schmidt Cassegrain or just a regular cassegrain?
One other mention, at least with my rc, if any wire goes to the secondary by following either the top or bottom of the spider, it messes with the spikes
classical/regular
a cc uses a parabolic primary so a good coma corrector works
buut a class cass cannot be corrected with the secondary still on with a coma corrector
i found that out
yeah, secondary just a flat plate right?
wha?
no
its a convex hyperbola
aren't you talking about the Schmidt plate
schmidt will not be touching this design
No, I was thinking the secondary is just a flat reflector
it honestly isnt an issue, the only issue is price / effectiveness
wdym
its a convex hyperbolic mirror
he thinks the secondary is a flat mirror
sorry, this one
a large secondary doesnt limit it by much
47% difference is much
is it really 47% if you account for off axis light tho?
Oh, understood. The secondary is actually what gives the cc the magnification.
yus
I vastly remember a conversation about 6" RC vs 8" RC and i can't remember if it accounted for off axis
a cc is just a really quick newt with a mirror to make it slow strapped to the front xD
Very cool, ive nerver heard of a design like that with a camera replacing the secondary. What does that make it, f4?
uhhh depends, its either f2.85 or f 3.3
oh wow
Wow, reading up on it, the RC primary is actually a fast mirror to. In the range of 2-3. Then the secondary is what corrects the coma while making it much slower.
This is great knowledge to have, not great for my wallet
yea!
That makes me reallly want to get a 8" rc or cc just to mod
you cant mod an rc to be f3
only a cc
bc no one makes hyperbolic coma correctors afaik
if you can find one thats a win
yea
almost 2000mm of fl is so intriguing
(regeler cc)
not 2000mm at f3 tho right? Unless you go for like a 16"
no i meant unmodified
it really depends if i want to wait for a white to be able to get a good enough coma corrector to use it or not
an rct would be a quicker solution
for a lot slower
unmodified its more tho.
a 6" class cass at f12 is about 1800mm
not more than 2000
Oh, I dont want small
ah
I was thinking 10". Minimum
atp you should go 14"
prob need larger mount then 😄
I only got 60lbs payload
I mean, for a 6" you wouldnt want a full sized cooled cam. It would block to much
a 12" truss tube design is almost 48lbs stock. Oh no
Yeah thats way to expensive for me rn, I only got mono cams, so filter wheel is a necessity. I forgot
ik xD
I mean, at what point wouldnt you just buy a newts primary mirror, get a backplate milled and a custom spider milled. then put camera at the front
a newts primary is usually f4
a class cass is usually f3
and its a lot more cost effective than most noots that advertise f3 mirrors
🤷♂️ Which is easier and cheaper overall
ive checked and its honestly not that much different
A concave mirror for a Cassegrain telescope. Diameter 285 mm. Stored in a warehouse since 1986. A document confirming compliance with the drawing is available, but the drawing itself and specifications are missing. I took it out of the packaging to take a photo. I'll answer any questions. Bargaining is appropriate.
does it say if its parabolic or not?
it does not. Its also Ukrainian so no idea
high chance its spherical
yeah
@frosty shard @tight lodge thinking here. Think back to this issue with my quattro.
See the big dark spot with a bright ridge?
It's functionally similar to the crater on the RC.
I fixed this.
how
I fixed it by painting the rear and sides of the secondary mirror with an exponentially darker paint.
It's completely gone now.
What if.
give it a shot
And remember the paint inside the scope is already not adequate enough, what if
also see if your flats are missaligned
The problem is the light from the primary is passing through the secondary, reflecting off of the surface it is glued to, and then bouncing back through to the camera?
Kinda hard on an RC.
Can't access the back of the secondary.

At best it is a design flaw you cant fix.
Implying that the secondary is not fully transparent?
GET OUT REEEEEEEEEEEE
(In all seriousness I want to get more data with my scope to see how widespread this is)
i shall get an f/3.7 newt
Yes
Assuming that the mirror is at its minimum 96% reflectance, with the rest of the light transmitting through it, and is made of a slab of perfectly transparent glass, you'd have to have light pass through the silvered surface twice, which means that you'd have 0.04^2 = 0.0016 (0.16%) of the light reflecting off the primary adding to the signal
At the absolute maximum
Before considering reflectivity of the paint behind it too.
I think i will drop the reducer after I do some final flats testing tonight.
I think ill go ahead and try to tighten the secondary as much as I can, and go over all of the locking screws on the focuser tilt adjuster as well.
Just make sure everything is as tight as it can get.
There's one other thing I've been thinking about
But wait you see this donut in the lights without flats nvm
The part I find baffling (pun intended) is that the internal reflection appears to be the same size with or without the reducer
I find that baffling as well
I also find the fact that the intensity appears to be the same painted or not painted
Flocked or not flocked.
Literally none of the work ive done has been worth it in that regard.
Nothing ive done has made any headway in getting rid of it.
The thing is, although it looks like an internal reflection, the illumination profile is really similar to my previous issue with the reflective adapter
I know others have brought it up but what filters are you using?
Antlia LRGB-V Pro
2" mounted.
That gives me an idea. 
If it was a reflection off the front of the filters, shouldnt it be way beyond the focal plane though?
I don't think it's the front of your filters. I think it's the edges.
An internal reflection from a ring has a specific profile that doesn't give you a sharp image of the entrance pupil, but it can give you a fuzzier counterpart

I can try my DSLR on the reducer with no filter to see what happens
Yeah, definitely do that
Id try the 571 on its own but thats an incredibly involved process that I dont have time for tonight.
Probably will take a few flats with it to see what happens.
That will end the filter debate completely depending on the results.
Also it could possibly be your filter wheel
So if you notice, the edge of the artifact tapers off pretty smoothly in all your frames
Including narrowband?
Cause the ring doesnt exist in narrowband.
I didn't have issues as significant in narrowband
With a reflective ring between the light cone and the focal plane, the center is going to be somewhat darker
That's because the angle of incidence is very high at the center, and you have relatively little light coming in at the correct angle to make it to the sensor
But when you move off axis, and especially with a large central obstruction, you suddenly get to a point where there's a lot more light coming in
The angle of incidence has decreased, so you see more of the surface of the ring
And there's more light hitting it
Makes sense when you put it that way. I will crash the hell out if it's the filters.
But as you move farther away, it tapers off again
Narrowband filters are gonna be significantly less sensitive to these changes in angles of incidence
If it is I'm gonna screech RC SUPREMACY all over the Astrobiscuit servers
But if it is the filters, why does it only show up on the RC?
The large CO?
That could make the artifact more obvious, but it is the one hole on my theory
(pun also intended here)
I assume you've used the imaging train with another scope and didn't see the artifact there
@slate falcon I have to ask: do you think you could raytrace a Cassegrain with a reflective ring somewhere ahead of the image plane?
Correct and correct.
I did the distance test and no amount of moving the flat panel away caused a change in the ring.
The size and shape of the ring remained constant regardless of panel distance.
The only way the illumination of the ring would change was if the source was tilted around 5 degrees or more.
not looking good for your theory atm
yup
it's faint but it is there
ah that makes it nice and easy
no pressure on the panel, and then pressure
if what is being shown there is due to the pressure and not the very minor difference in crop, it wasnt nearly enough to cause what i observed last night
so something in the scope is moving.
tracer panel flats
I found all 6 locking screws for the focuser tilt adjuster on my decoupler to be more loose than they should have been. They were not shake around and rattle them loose but they weren't fully tight either. Exactly the sort of conditions I was looking for.
The shift isnt enough to notice in the star shapes or if it is, i haven't noticed it, and it's not enough that you'd detect it by hand or eye by wiggling stuff on the scope, but it is enough to shift throughout the course of a night. That's the key.
Have you tried taking the difference between the frames?
The mirror is dialectric. So 99.9% of reflexion. With this kind of mirror, you can shoot a laser on it, nothing penetrate
@harsh matrix I forgot, did you changes the distance of your secondary mirror from the primary ?
wah
i will try
they did but they pushed it back into the range of correction
tbh the center is a lot more easily extractable there
i hope your primary is oka
I think that's the tightest part of the scope atm
so I was right
It wont be when I center my target.
No, didnt have time.
oh yea ...
Technically yes by accident and then fixed it.
Hopefully this is the case.
@frosty shard What is the lowest FWHM you managed with the RC?
1.75"
In a single sub
1.9" in a stack
The mirrors in any Cassegrain cannot be dielectric; it's only feasible for flats
They only work over a limited band and their reflectivity falls off massively on curved surfaces
GSO states the reflectivity as being 94.6% or something.
Definitely not dielectric.
what does dielectric mean
Polarizable material that's applied in multiple thin layers to get extremely high reflectivity
is it possible to do that to my hand?
i want a shiny hand
No
Unfortunately it will not deposit a shiny coating on your hand
it'll just turn gray
:(
im seeing major dust spots from doing full spectrum ap
sky flats saved it
well
well
guess ill have to do another night of tests
i will say that any funkiness hereon out might actually be from some very small leaks I am ignoring for the time being.
potential leaks
idk if i sent this here or not
i got a laser collimator
will use it to center my focuser. then borrowing an OCAL from a club member
should be in action soon 👀
@slate falcon everything is super tight, nothing can move, yet there's an obvious difference between the sky flats and the flat panel flats
wtf is going on
the sky flats worked this time too.
why
what
huh
sky is more diffuse and random
that could be the reason
also show!
No i thought the panel flats were more diffuse and random tbh
the central spot is much more contained in the middle
and brighter in the sky flats
i think your flat panel is still too close
if you think about it
you are focused on the sky not the panel
@frosty shard you asked me if the central ring ever changed size and I told you yes one time but didnt know why, now i remember
the left is before i did any work, the right is after I flocked the drawtube of the focuser
that changed the size of the ring at native
for some reason
your flats are so horrifying
@frosty shard also sorry bro i straight lied to you because im an idiot, yes I did shoot NIR recently and yes the spot was there in the center
friesd
yeah
Okay gonna try to snag a baader steeltrack
I can almost entirely ignore focuser related issues with one of them things I hope.
its lowk not bad
Yeah
did you rule out anything shifting your flats
I cant fully eliminate all sources of flex without fully eliminating the focuser as a potential source, but I only have bad or okay focusers on hand.
lmao
try a bad one and see if it gets worse
That mightve been what happened with my first light ngl
With the carbonstar crayford
I think its shift
or you could take a flat, shake the scope and see if anything changes
Since the sky flats worked better than everything else, I think it's sag of the focuser.
A very, very, very small amount
Because this is a R&P
Btw guys
I tried to raise the secondary using the middle screw last night
I think it is siezed
Or the secondary is genuinely that tight.
@crisp flower Has your RC always had the crater artifact?
No
Well yes
Tilting the source of the illumination by less than like 5 degrees wont produce the amount of movement we saw in the flats.
The problem is that it will remain in the color channels and centering the target will create a nightmare.
Won't really be possible to correct.
I tested that last night
Saw no difference in the appearance of the flats even extending the thing to arms length above the scope.
I think the tracer panel may work better because it is partially transparent so the scope is effectively focused on infinity.
Even if it really isn't.
whaat
a oki
wat
There's no idea of focus with a flat, it's simply diffuse light coming from all directions
If the flippy is failing it will be some sort of problem with polarization/direction/improper diffusion or refresh rate or something of that sort
Or of course the classic nonuniformity
technically it matters but for the sake of explaining whatever I was observing, I am grasping at straws to explain it. 
Achieving proper diffusion is important but there is no idea of focus
There isn't an image you're trying to project
yuhh uhh
the difuse light still comes from a source that isnt as diffuse
which means it has a focal point that can change
so you would need it to be similar to your scopes focus yk
diffusers also still have a psf
No?
ya
I'm not sure what that phrase even means
its a diffuse one but it still has one
I'm not sure you know what the word diffusion means anymore
scattered light
diffusers are never properly diffuse is what im trying to say kinda
If you were to characterize the effect of a diffuser it would be the convolution with a fully uniform distribution but this is a level of semantics beyond anything
it can never be fully uniform tho
Sure but not in the way you're saying
is
i will probably wake up tomorow and realise ive said everything wrong so lets pick this up tomorow 
I think you're talking about what happens to an image of a point source after a diffuser
yea
That's cool and all but I fail to see the relevance to what it does outside of the focus point of the system since flat panels are outside the focus point
That's just nonuniformity
yea
ur right yea
Do you think I should ask DSD about it?
I think you'll have to establish it as the problem before they'll listen
Same.
Graxpert didnt do half bad
for the next step, i ordered some weather foam strips
im going to use them to seal up the gaps in and around the decoupler
I will hopefully replace the primary collimation screws with much longer versions as well
to make future collimation much faster and easier
I want to attempt to eliminate the need for the janky "light blocker" they have over the holes in the top of the decoupler 💀
Noice
Do you happen to know what size secondary collimation screws are used with the RC?
If you ever find out let me know
I want to replace my secondary with zinc-dipped screws
i do not
i dont know the size of the primary ones either at this moment
Oh wait you have a different secondary assembly from me I forgot
Either way I highly recommend zinc-dipped or galvanized screws in that application
google says this though
should note this isnt exclusive to RC's and there doesnt seem to be a clear answer for RC's
I'm pretty sure it's M4, but the length is the important question
Also, check this sucker out:
https://www.cloudynights.com/forums/topic/995306-rc6-optical-artifact-defect/
oh my
that looks like what happened with my 8 at native after i flocked the focuser
dafuq
@harsh matrix @frosty shard I was suprised by your messages about the reflectivity and decided to verify again. And you know what ? It depend of the tube but also of the website we see the informations. It look like the pro version of the RC8 is 99% dialectric, but during my research, some says it is 99%, others says that is 94% dialectric… etc
So much different opinion about specs !
And because Cassegrain from GSO are basicly the same as RC (just a different mirror curvature), I also checked and there is effectivly some difference about the same telescope in the informations… very weird
Maybe we have to trust TS Optics, after all, they make more than half of the RC on the market
yeah there's often not a clear answer to anything regarding these scopes on the web despite how long theyve been around
he doesnt specify what focuser he's using, how long he's had the scope or if he'd done any work to it either
that could be a challenge to dissect
There is very little information on GSO mirrors in general, unfortunately.
Here's a background extracted G band flat I recently took @harsh matrix
This is 32 flats stacked multiplicatively
yeah yeah I should also clean my filter
it's difficult to tell what im looking at ngl
Ooh, bubbles 🫧
i think i see a double lobed spot of illumination in the middle though

one here
and up to the right
but i very well may be seeing things
I do believe this was a flat from first light with my 8
with no crater... suspiciously.
For reference here's one from before I figured out the reflection problem I had
that matches the profile of what i was seeing with my RC6
bruhhhhhh
AND THE 8
when i was using it
man
so I sold that reducer because I thought it was an issue with that
cause i didnt see this without the reducer
how does that make any sense though
the right rim of the crater in mine is on the left side of the dark spot in the center of the main reflection
Since getting the RC8 what have you changed about your imaging train?
HPS couldnt figure out that was their own adapters making that artifact?
are you serious
💀
everything
focuser, method of connection, light dampening inside, imaging train, okay filter wheel and OAG are the same now as back then
decoupler
reducer
Have you done the test I did to check the imaging train for reflections?
(pull everything behind the OAG out and visually inspect the imaging train with a flat panel illuminating everything)
You're still using an Askar OAG right? That should be relatively easy
Yes
Lots of times now
Not with the 571 train
The exit pupil of the starizona is so small that theres practically no way for a reflection to happen beyond the reducer.
And what I saw in the DSLR flats, while it was hard to tell, said one very clear thing. Whatever is going on is either with the reducer or in front of it, and not on the back side of it.
Visual ray tracing tests tell the same story.
Im Not Sure, i noticed it after flocking
Okay because thats when it got much worse for me too.
Something that should have made it better actually made it much worse.
Hey guys, I have a few hours of clear skies tonight and I wanna get out the RC6. I want to shoot either M101 or M63 and I live in Bortle 4-5 skies. Now I want to know how long my exposure should be.
I was aiming for either 10 seconds (for sharpness) or 3-4 Minutes for details
Yeaa
Did you remove the flocking now?
From what i read Here, u managed to fix it with Skyflats now right?
I bet much doubt it's dielectric because you wouldn't have a 94% dielectric coating
It might be faulty marketing from their diagonals
It look like it
They have typical aluminum coatings
Crazy how specs can change from a site to another with the same telescope
It would be a very bad idea to use dielectric coatings for the primary for example, it would be expensive, alteres the figure, and makes recoating impossible
Also it is obvious from the coating degradation of the RCs I've seen that they're normal aluminum coatings
I know some mirrors that are make like this. But it is only some specific company
Dielectric coatings are best for small pieces of glass that are replaced after a very long time
Considering the price, it has to be aluminium. And as M63 said, a dielectric primary is silly
If someone wants a fully reflective primary you honestly would get a silver coating though you'll have to recoat frequently
Yeah silver is more reflective but it doesn't last nearly as long
It's easier to do yourself though
After reflexion, I don’t know how I fooled myself with these marketing incoherence…
Pretty rare also
It's common among atmers since it's easy to diy
It's mostly done in DIY dobs from what I've seen, as it can be done by amateurs much more easily
Yep
While aluminium coating requires a vacuum chamber lol
Also observatories recoat very frequently but they use aluminum
They want optimal performance so it makes sense
The VLT does it quite often for example, there's a nice video on YT about the recoating of one of their mirrors
Gemini uses silver
Eh it's mostly to be wary of corrosion
For example LBT gets recoated every summer and it's nasty before the recoat
correct
did you flock the baffle tubes? or just the focuser? what all have you flocked?
Niiiice
I have only flocked the extention Tubes Leading to the camera
The telescope itself is unflocked
wait
that's all it took for this to happen?
Here (ignore the Bad cable Management)
are you sure you got the compression ring tight enough?
Yes
I am
what about the focuser?
I dont know how i am supposed to tighten it more
is it loose even a little?
Yeaaaaaah
Thats why decouolers exist.
But if you can wiggle the primary without a whole lot of force, you might want to progressively tighten each locking screw until you cant move it anymore.
Just did that
They were much more loose than i thought they would be
is that a complete omegon setup?!
Almost
Oh my



