#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 33 of 1
theres nothing visible in the singles
send me a few or a stack when you can then
23 mins of data
tf is the magnitude
you can see how it got occluded
i am now do unoptomised stack
thanks
23mins
i am now do unoptomised stack
whats optimized stack mean
does everything to try correct stuff
its actually the opposite its like half an hour sliwer
just a tad
Ay guys im shooting m51 rn and ill do 4hrs, after that in post processing should i hardware bin if my resolution rc6 combined w 533 is um idk 0,56”?
6" or 8"? (pretend i didnt ask this pls)
if you can pull off the subs dont bin (theres also a smoll chance you resolve something cool)
if you cant pull off the subs do
oversampling > undersampling

Rc6
i realised after 
I actually never binned before but idk just came thru my mind
i only bin if my seeing dont support it
otherwise i leave it
Idk sincerely if my seeing supports it or not
it will be okay dont worry about it
I have no idea abt the seeing atp if meteoblue aint reliable
all i can say, if it works it works
(about your imaging)
Mhmmmm sometimes i feel like the image is okay but something is missing
Alright
usually int time for me
Well since even tracking is seeing based stuff seems okay atm
comdet but 12 mins
Whats this
lol
bobbbb
yo
what eould happen if i subtract the comet from the comet on a different day
will i be able to see the progression of the comet 
i can sleep at night now
yes
wh
nah
this is the brightest it'l get
darn
it actually is a mag fainter than it was at best
you want some of my data?
combine data?!
proly not combine
oh yea
different days
i would be able to subtract it tho!!
wait no
it moves
i wont be able to align the inages
Babby's first continuum subtraction
first test of the RC with new knife edge baffles put in the baffle tube is happening as we speak
unfortunately collimation isn't great so ill have to revisit that later this week if possible
okay "not great" by my standards
it's probably acceptable to most people 
As long as there are no funky reflections, its totally fine
I overcooked it the first time, this looks better IMO
pibk
strawbee
yummyyy
hai
at least the data looks cool 
Idk what that means as far as whatever is happening with the scope.
I think what we're most likely seeing are the spots where light isn't reaching though
Those dark spots
Or theyre over corrections.
This is what the flat is like after ABE
We're more or less seeing an inversion of this in the light
Also idk wtf is going on with the dust motes.
Why they are corrected in a line through the middle but left uncorrected at the top and bottom edges.
That makes 0 sense.
No motes from the filter either.
Very very strange.
Im having a hard time understanding what I see.
This is an outdated and imperfect representation of what the camera sees.
The front most knife edge baffle is farther up the tube but you can still see the inside of the baffle tube extension.
i meant the giant dark spot in the middle
that lloks like a shadow
Unlikely
It's extremely bright there in the flats
Most likely an over correction from flats.
it is yea
prolly
This is what we are looking at
If you think about it, this should be matching the flats
But it does not
What is producing that bright spot in the flats and why isnt it visible here?
maybe light reflecting off filter than back into it?
That's my biggest concern.
No I think it's more complicated than that.
i would think so
it looks like something is causing the light to focus in the center
well thats kinda what is happening afaik 
do you have a reducer on the scope?
I dont have an example on hand rn
Yes
reducers cause light to focus usualy
But originally, flats with this camera and reducer produced a dark spot in the center with a bright ring around it.
whaa
Yup
whats caused it to invert?!
That's signature of bad baffling.
The addition of the knife edge baffles.
But why?
a
I have no idea.
These baffles dont intercept the light path whatsoever.
They dont intrude even slightly.
That's why i didnt slide them all the way up the tube just yet
i think i see a slifht reflection off of it
This same thing happened last time I tried this.
You do but that was before I painted it.
You cant see it anymore now.
that makes sense
I wanted to see if by not blocking visibility to the inside of the tube, from the center of the sensor, if this problem would return.
It has.
Im going to slide the baffles farther up when I get off work and test that.
If it gets worse then ill slide them the other direction but by how much, I dont know.
I need to figure out this behavior before I can design a solution.
what if it causes both to happen at the same time 
the outer bright ring and a spot in the center
that would be baffling 
ye
it kinda looks like a flat psf of a point source from a bad scope
also can i see the spider in that
i was in fact tripping
are you off collimation?
if you are i wonder if thats contributing a bit
Yes
Quite a bit off for my standards
Im wondering if that is contributing as well
Historically it has made no difference though.
Ive noticed the same behavior with my quattro
Collimated vs not collimated has no bearing on how well calibration works.
@high aspen this is what i think the issue is
Or @slate falcon
You see the ghostly donut thing in the first image?
Pretty sure that's a reflection of the secondary on the reducer.
Im concerned that may be what's causing the bright spot.
The bright silver rings are my phone lenses
Okay i have the baffles to a point where they dont let any stray light in or scatter to the camera.
One problem.
The primary retainer ring is now my biggest enemy.
Stray light that bypasses the baffles doesnt terminate when it hits that.
Instead it scatters and all of it ends up all over the camera sensor.
I will see if flocking does anything
More importantly: I can still use the whole primary mirror.
According to a laser test anyway.
That shouldn't be visible 
That's the edge of my phone's lens
Aaah
Alright if this dont work I will be mildly upset
I decided to flock the primary retaining ring again because it has better oblique angle scattering/absorbing characteristics than the paint does.
Im so nervous rn ngl
If theres any more reflections, I can still flock the reducer a little.
Why do you have so many issues with the scopes 😭
I don't understand if you just got really unlucky or if your standards are higher
Bortle 8/9
Nothing works as intended in these skies.

@tight lodge new flats look fantastic
The only concern left is how they calibrate lights and how lights are affected by the scope itself.
Fingers crossed...
look
this looks a but funky
not sure it will be a problem though
i need to deep clean this imaging train now
jesus
new vs old
moving the top most knife edge baffle farther up expanded the bright point of illumination
smoothed out the dark ring
the light ring no longer has any harsh edges either
collimation could have been why the dust didnt calibrate out though
you can see in the flat from yesterday that the bright point is offset by quite a bit
the new flat has it centered
cause i did a janky bench collimation 

ugh this still isnt any good
dust motes survived calibration too
im betting if i flock the rear of the apex, it would help a lot
that's the only place left that can cause weirdness like this
cant believe i didnt think of that earlier
i think the easiest solution is to move

real
I do think if I get this thing fully sorted out, id still get the nuttiest dark sky data known to man.
Even better than what ive gotten before.
I really think these remaining issues may be entirely down to the apex as ive got the scope as sorted out as I can possibly make it.
That ghost image in the middle seems to be what I took a photo of earlier today.
I'm not sure what to do about that since theres not really anything I can do.
I think, you might need a sensor cleanup
Iirc, you said those dust motes are o the sensor itself
Gang how are you still struggling
my flats for comparrison 😭
(you can see the vinyette at the top)
its my 850nm flats
@harsh matrix These are the flats from the cone nebula🫠
these were dark sky flats
and worked really well actually
Like i thought you would have fixed it by now
Looks bad


because this scope refuses to cooperate
it defies all logic atp
there's no reason to see the problems that I do, yet I see them
it's unbelievable that the stack still looks like it garbled up a bunch of stray light even though stray light is unable to make it to the camera or scatter to the camera.
The light from stars can still scatter
It doesnt have to a street light
Also this looks pretty reflective
Does a dirty mirror or a shiny/sparkly baffle or flocked surface cause star scattering
That baffle will probably be an issue but the mirror and flock surface no
the part you are concerned about is also on my radar now
even though that part cant get catch stray light either, it looks like it is funneling the light column down to the camera in an over powering manner
that's all the reducer now
Maybe your mirror is warped or sum
But that would show up in your stars
Still could be an issue
Could it have something to do with reflections off a filter
Maybe you could try a different mirror if you have one
dont know but i dont think the filter should be the concern here
i think the reducer itself is what you need to be worried about
look at this ghostly eyeball looking thing being reflected to the secondary
pretty sure this is some kind of image that is being produced and reflected up to the secondary by the reducer
how do I know?
because I've seen this very similar image in the center of the reducer, just a little bigger, by looking through the front of the scope.
which unfortunately if this is causing issues, and I manage to fix every other suspicious problem with the Apex, and this still remains, there's nothing i can do about it
it appears to be produced only by the glass itself.
yes
need to clean the lum filter too
the whole thing needs to be deep cleaned
i fully assembled it in May or June of last year, cleaned it by dust blower only ever since, not good enough for the stuff that falls and gets stuck
if i nuke all of the dust, then this dust issue probably wont be an issue until i see new motes
even then, it might be fine as long as i flock this reducer
I gotta do the same. i got those 3 dust motes across all the filters and they annoy me. i mean they corect fine, but... it's better when they are not there
Ghost pupils are a common enough issue on professional RCs with flatteners/reducers that I've seen documents mentioning the issue
and yeah I need to clean my filters and sensor...
dafuq
does it affect images or is it a red herring?
It does affect images and you need to subtract its contribution from the flat frame
The ghost pupil adds extra light to the frame
yeaaaaaaahhhh
i think that's my issue
but how do you account for it on its own?
It doesn't really affect lights, just flats, so if you can model the difference between the ideal vignetting profile and the ghost pupil, it should be correctable?
I think you can model the ideal behavior with a cos⁴ law, and treat the exit pupil as an addition to this law

Does it only contribute brightness or can it contribute structure as well?
Oh, the excess brightness is just the ghost pupil
The goal is to find the additional light from the ghost pupil and subtract it from your already existing flats
only in the areas it needs to probs
Well no the flats would be over subtracting due to the additional light from the ghost pupil.
thats why you subtract it

also my flats have a lil vignette 😭
@harsh matrix I noticed my rc6 doesnt really have its dust motes corrected aswell lmao, what a weird thing
Maybe happens cuz those dust pieces are like, more pronunced?
Dunno ngl
I think the more pronounced ones show up earliest but I think all of them will show up with enough integration time.
@tight lodge I opened up the filter wheel and cleaned the camera sensor and lum filter
I found the lum filter glass was LOOSE inside of the mount.
Not sure if I loosened it while cleaning it or if it's been like that since I got it or happened recently, I have no idea, but I do know it was loose at some point when I was cleaning it.

What if this is the cause of the dust not calibrating...
It was loose enough that the only reason I noticed is because it was making a clicking sound and it felt like the glass was moving.
i flocked the rear of the starizona too
looks clean at first glance
still kind of the same story
and this is why i dont clean things
no matter how hard you try
no matter how much time you waste
it stays just as dirty or gets worse.

some weird af tilt shift happened
blink between the 2
collimation has not moved, camera rotation is within 2 degrees afaik and the reducer is in the same position afaik
huuuuhhh?
I think my double illumination theory was right
but for the wrong reasons
was the lum filter loose THIS ENTIRE TIME?
EVEN THE LITTLE MOTE ON THE PIXELS MOVED
WHAT?
I think it has been loose in the mount for MONTHS
there's no other explanation
that would explain why i started seeing this exact problem on the quattro too
What would technically explain why it was difficult to correct 
extremely difficult
it would explain why suddenly the motes came back after they were fixed with the 533 as well
however i think it was still an issue and may still be
i can see motes in my RGB from the same night i did the crowbar test
i did photograph the bottom of clouds to test rq
no motes survived calibration despite being very visible in the stack
I'm gonna take a moment to check all of my filters...
Sir, I see squares
that's heavily denoised and not bias subtracted lol
Interesting to see that the denoise algorithms tile the image 
nah the filter has nothing to do with the ghost pupil
that's what that conversation was about
What’s a ghost pupil
this thing
kind of looks like an eyeball
it's essentially a reflection of everything that's visible on the secondary being bounced back up at the secondary by the reducer
Damn... super nuked and is flat?
So, my hypothesis from a very long time ago was right
I feel like Veloren has been struck by a curse
High bortle sky curse
howew
i thought so 
The culprit is the apex?
Bruh
Welp
There are alternatives
Many 0.8x reducer/flatteners
I do wonder if it's something with your specific apex or will all of them do it lol
I wonder that too
Know anyone with one lol
nope
Around you
none other than you

my best guess is either age of the corrector, state of the coatings on the front element, or proximity to the secondary mirror
Do you have a reliable way of finding it
So you can make tweaks to see what makes it go away
I did think about giving a 0.8x reducer/flattener a try before, and then forgot about it
yes
i found it during ray tracing
it looks like an eyeball
i thought it was my eye until i realized it doesnt move with my eye
it fits inside the spot on the secondary mirror too
I do not have that reducer anymore 😭
but that one had it's own issue
Lemme dbe a flat
But I have only struggled with light leaks that look nothing like this
this
using this reducer at 55 mm of back focus created this
Do you know anyone around you
on both the RC8 and my 6
nope
Literally anything
i have to buy whatever next
Even a coma corrector
Or any piece of shit with a converging lens element
That reduces focal length
i have the stock quattro coma corrector i could throw in 
Do that
0.86x reduction
Good enough
Real question though is why doesn't it calibrate out
Yeah I have that in my flats
But it's never bothered me 
Is it because it calibrates out completely or it calibrates out enough due to being in a dark sky
But I do like 200 hours of data so it should show up eventually
I will look at the other rcs flat and see if it has it
Great!
I can try the coma corrector in a little bit but it will require some guess work.
Im not sure exactly where the point of focus "would be"
Okay
Now im not sure what exactly this ghost pupil should look like in the flats, supposedly it only contributes brightness and not structure.
I don't think this changes advice for RCs if it's a reducer issue lol
I found dark skies to be extremely forgiving for flats.
On another note I wouldn't recommend them to most people for other reasons
Yeah but things will reappear with enough integration
As i found out the hard way
this is my latest master flat
It's just that people don't get a lot of integration in dark skies usually because it's hard to get to
from last night
for reference
this is a blue flat from my RC6
and that 0.67x reducer i got rid of
wait this is easier to tell
i wouldnt say i see anything in the apex flat that resembles this for one
for two, this reducer was not a reducer & flattener so im not sure how that alters things
this is the only 0.67x reducer that I know of that is known to produce this ring
I reported it to HPS and they told me as much
they did some testing which turned out to be inconclusive
they do not know the origin of this donut
*others reported it too
you have the carbon star right ?
because like me they were unable to get it to calibrate out
it seems the default focuser is threaded
that was the carbonstar RC6 yes
i really like the threaded focuser, upgrade for such arent threaded
i dont like the ring clamp thing lowkey
yes
me neither
i had to switch it out for a baader click lock to use my apex on the 8 though
fortunately the click lock doesnt incur any kind of tilt
it returns the imaging train to the same spot every time too
that was my primary grudge with compression rings on these RC's
interesting. ill try out the default focuser....
take the imaging train off, put it back on, collimation appears to have shifted 
genuinly why arent we using threaded connections for imaging on newts ?
you use the threads, this isnt an issue
normally you cant rack the focusers in far enough to reach focus if you have to thread the coma corrector onto the end of the drawtube
ahh
It's hard to design a newt focuser that can also rotate and accommodate the CC
i could have tried that with my paracorr but i would have needed another 10 mm of in traverse to reach focus
imma try a 6" RC for spring
Is there a reason you're not getting a newt
i dont like newts 

returned it *
he called me and left a voice message
about he return
i kept bugging them for months about my newt issues
i think thats what saved me
no but the flares do drive some people crazy
I don't think I'd care too much personally since halos dont even bother me
150 pds or 200 pds 
im thinking skywatcher bro
i really like my quattro now that it's not being stupid
just dont use the stock CC
it's hot garbage
ive seen
What do you mean by flares
couldnt correct APS-C or my 533
idk what to image at 350mm for spring.. maybe wait till 5 am and spawn camp cygnus but anyway. thats a reason i wanna get a scope with a high FL
The first one is avoided by not purchasing a gso 6" mirror
The second one is avoided through aperture masking
this mainly
i believe these come with a mirror mask
and if they dont, andy 100% installed one
this is an example from Valence
and how I was in the wrong
Yeah it's from the mirror figure
he sold it
that's what drove these guys to insanity 
I just don't recommend gso 6" f/4 mirrors
every image on astrobin
They're shit
💀
f5 newt perchance
search Apertura Carbonstar 150 in equipment and go through every image
ill see whats on the used market
every single one has flares
You unfortunately got a shit mirror, if you get a not shit mirror it won't be so bad
Getting a pds newt or a quattro will be good, but then you have to yeet the focuser someday, install aperture mask, and maybe yeet the entire tube if you become a maniac
RC is the same deal though but with decoupling
i keep forgetting that part
But the RC is not fast and is not flexible in FL
It holds collimation better but if you're not a remote imager that's not that important
Newts are easier to collimate
Just way more touchy
you can see the secondary veery well
buddy stored the cases in a place that made them get scratched up to all hell but the filters are unscathed
maybe
it does look a lot like what was staring back at me the other night

I may grab a 0.8x reducer/flattener any way, it would allow me to use a rotator
the paracorr is basically a barlow
it has a 1.1x factor to it
there are others but im unaware of what they are
get a 0.33 reducer 
Yes but you can also combine a cc and barlow
The 0.33x is a thing
It's for Scts
build your own coma corrector
It's trash
The only sct reducer that's any good is the starizona
The Meade japan sct reducer is fine for visual though
i see a 6" f6 newt on astromart with a losmandy rail
nvm... pick up only
alright what 0.8x reducer/flatteners are available for use with RC's that are made well?
900mm is nice
The wo one
I don't think the TS 0.8x 2" is good for apsc
But the 3" 0.8x is good for FF
my god
Yeah but mount and seeing
my eq3 onstep will be ok
interesting
FL is something ill consider well. I think i should be ok with anything under 1000mm. a reducer 6" rc at 890 seems fair for me
WO has a lot of 0.8x reducers
This does not inspire confidence
The RC one specifically
they be named Flat7a and then it turns out to be a .8 reducer
he's screwing with you lol
What about 8" 
the Dr Flat Master?
Yes
They only say that because they only sell 12"+
But yeah threading it on is an issue
And it's also really expensive
Probably not worth it for you
It won't be worth it, no.
i think the pupil thing will still be an issue regardless of what glass i put in, but im still not aware of the extent of how it manifests in flats
supposedly it doesnt affect the lights
which means whatever was affecting my RC6 was not the ghost pupil if that is true
okay i think this ghost pupil thing isnt a problem period
seems to be related to reflections with stars and not much else
as far as potential structure making it into an image goes
i think the full image of what i saw projected on the secondary is either way too big or too small to be anywhere near focus
so it may add brightness only
Let me know when you inevitably piggyback a msgr rig to your rc
Why
i got a rokinon 135 but it's the wrong mount
it is micro 4/3 not canon
i have only mono cameras
oof
L after L

minus the ca ofc
and the slight aberration at the corners
aanndd the slifgt field curvature
i think where im at will be doable
i fixed the ringing in the corners i believe
so we are winning atm

it was also a 0.7x reducer
its still suprising it managed to correct up to like 6mm tho
One of my favorite parts of the hobby is stacking correctors in the most cursed fashion and getting excellent results out of it
i wanna put an adc with my cc to see what happens icl
Who needs ray tracing when you can do trial and error
Stacking a sw/GPU quattro cc with the AP 0.67x makes for a decent sct reducer
i pushed the top most knife edge baffle in the baffle tube up high enough to completely obscure the inside of the baffle tube extension from the center of the camera, without blocking parts of either mirror
but that obscures more of both mirrors near the middle to edge of the sensor
should i keep it where it's at, would this be a major problem long term, and could this be the reason why the dust has returned? 
Only one way to find out
tbh i could probably make an apo with this
I am a fan of the smoother transitions of the high to low points, i think it would help with correction, but im not sure the middle will correct just going off of my test result last night 
I'm willing to bet 10 trillion 1st gen Zimbabwe dollars you can't
it seems like no matter what i do, the center wont correct
need ED glass
idkkk
Unless superchromat or something like that
*if you look at the inner most edge of the dust motes, it got narrower because the knife edge baffle went up farther
(2 of the elements there are )
these 2 tho
that's a big chip
im not gunna use that no
or the 2 handmade plastic lenses either
This is going to fail but I fully support messing around with lenses
i do also have an actual flattening lens but thats being used in my guidescope
yay looks like the wind will die down after sunset
Can definitely build an army of guidedscopes
It always becomes a microscope
it worked until something got misaligned and the ca became awful
everything was genuinely running perfect (exept field curve)
until it unaligned
Bruh
Join us...
I do
You look at the corners
no like before i image\
Measure it
Calculate it based on your existing camera, extension tubes, filter drawer, OAG thickness whatever
i have 56 i think to the visual back
You have a ZWO 533 MC Pro so that's 17.5
Camera - 6.5
11mm ring
Filter Drawer - 20mm
OAG - 16.5mm
Adapter - 2mm
56
That is good then
Yeah that will work
Doesnt the filter add some backfocus too?
And isn’t the reducer supposed to be 55
Technically but I never count it
Yes but with a 533 you wont be able to see a difference between 55 and 56
For reference
My 533 imaging train is at 59 mm
I cant tell that anything is wrong.
The RC is super forgiving with back focus and reducers.
oh
I put everything on the mount. Doing so makes it so I only need to plug in a few cables
RC: camera usb, camera power, EAF (soon)
71f: camera usb, camera power, EAF, dew heater
So I just swap my imaging train and boom. Easy rig change
That's exactly the sort of thing you should do.

Cisco rack on the mount
You made it even easier than I had it
I had to swap a lot of hardware and cables over when I did that stuff.
Now will I need both of these m90 extensions?
Kinda looks like the focuser has one
I think you need to take one of the small ones off and then you're good
Same for without reducer?
What's your imaging train?
If you have no filter wheel you should be okay
533, filter drawer, oag
The manual also has some recommendations but I think this is fine
https://www.highpointscientific.com/amfile/file/download/file/2017/product/13324/
yea but I’m using a different focuser, so idk if it’s different
Ohh right I forgor
I should have noticed
How much travel do you have in your focuser?
It kinda looks like my focuser has a spacer already…. So I think il take the smaller one off
uh 4 inches
9.5 on the focuser. Idk the units
That'll be millimeters
Yeah take one off and you'll have plenty of travel to work with
Good to finally see my old reducer get some use
yep. Although I’m probably taking it off for galaxy season 
Good call
I’m doing a project with Super and our imaging scale is basically identical with his rc10 and whatever his cam is
You know what your first light image will be?
Probably M100 since that’s what our target is
Although with all these clouds, I think Cygnus will be back the next time I image 
Collimation is my next step, it’s warming up, 30F at night. So I think il be able to do it
Mb
You dont need any extensions with the reducer
You do need the 50 mm and a 25 mm extension without the reducer.
Forgot mb
ok
this is why i am not happy
this is basically the bottom right corner
center
all the corners
the stars are not supposed to be round near the corner and then lines in the middle
wha
wtf is this
how have you reversed the collimation 😭
bad on axis astigmatism
that's not the problem
so the center being off isn't the oroblem?
that is the problem
focus isnt the problem
i meant collomstion
now you say collimation
still waking up
I adjusted the collimation
because the whole field was comatic
the astigmatism was all over the place and horribly unbalanced
it was awful
i tried to fix it tonight but every time i fixed the coma on axis, the astigmatism off axis became unfixable
i would have spent more than 2 hours if i kept going
doesnt help that it was 40 degrees F outside
have you potentially pushed the secondary too far forward
or moved the primary closer
?
it's possible the secondary moved closer to the primary when i tightened the collimation screws on it
yea was thinking that
do you think i should loosen the screws on the secondary?
they were alright semi tight so tightening them more was probably overkill but the secondary has had a habit of wandering
nah
it's a phillips head screw
i wont have enough leverage to move it with the other 3 even being as loose as they were prior to me tightening them

after DBE
it isnt nearly as bad as i expected.
i still have a problem
and it is unrelated to the scope now
it's the reducer
its veery slight
yeah
cant remove it entirely
DBE wont do it
i have the tolerance set as low as it will go and the smoothing set to 0.1
still not enough to clean it up 100% but this would be easy to bury with a lot of integration
ill show the raw one too
it's almost a perfectly smooth top to bottom gradient
with the exception of the vignette darkening in the corners
ngl if i want to go the rest of the way, i might have to take the reducer apart
which is hellishly sketchy
i dont advise you do that tbh
that's why i dont want to do it
it's not smart
it isnt no
alright no matter what i do i cannot remove the gradients in a simple manner
it has to be a more complex/delicate DBE process every time
doesnt everyone in high bortles habe to do that
i dont know
simple ADBE and nuke the noise
no dust
but what are the straight lines about
dafuq
another option is to install an aggressive light cut off mask
to block off all light from reachng the edges of the front lens element
that particular group is creating the glow that is haunting me rn
ngl if this data didnt look good
i wasnt going to continue messing with the collimation
i was about to put this thing in the closet for another month
doubt it
there's a bright star off that side of the frame
could be that
doubtful
i think i saw that in ur flats a while ago
nope
so ur not talking about this giant bar between these 2 lines?
bc that giant bar is showing up in the images
it doesnt quite line up
it's too far over
i do think you may still be on to something
maybe i should try flat darks instead of bias and see what happens
this is what this sensor's amp glow looks like
not too bad
it shouldnt have amp glow but it does
it's not even an ADU higher than the rest of the sensor
these variations are a fraction of an ADU
but i do not see the bands
not in the bias frame
i think all cams have a little glow on the edge
that massive band (of glow) isnt on the edge

strangely enough there is a large difference between a 0.01s bias and a 1s bias
huh
might be pixel response variation which is exactly why we take flats
yea
the edges glow on the 1s flat
bottom and top do
well
im a little stumped
you can see the bands in here
in both the light and the flat
the middle is a lot brighter than it's supposed to be of course
that's part of the final problem
but the rest of this structure is a perfect match
you could try subtract it using a circular brush that has a steady gradient 
@frosty shard is this what you were talking about? with that ghost pupil thing?
in photoshop
yeah
but that would be a last resort
yea
i rarely have the patience to sort that out

This... is the inverse actually
uh

a ghost pupil adds light in the shape of the aperture
im very stumped now
oh so this is adding light in the shape of the dark spot
aka
the baffle

Wait is the right frame a flat?
yes
an ABE'd flat
it's had the gradient removed
this is what the regular flat looks like
And the left frame is an uncalibrated light?
same for the non registered and non calibrated light stack
uncalibrated and unregistered
i applied the flat to that light and the motes vanished
Did you have any other artifacts?
which left this behind
yes
Yeah considering that your lights also show this artifact it seems like baffling?
I haven't kept super close tabs on your RC for a bit – what happened to your RC since the M81 image?
i readded knife edge baffles inside of the baffle tube
pushed the top one up high enough to fully obscure the baffle tube extension i made from view of the camera, put another below that to obscure the rest of the tube, i flocked the primary mirror retaining ring because it was glowing like the moon despite putting 3 coats of paint on it
and the most recent change was 2 nights ago, i flocked the back of the reducer because that was causing ringing in the corners
there's still some ringing but it's less pronounced, the seems to have reduced the aggression of the vignetting as well
the knife edge baffles inside the baffle tube took the bafflig problem from months back from the left, to what it is now on the right
on the left, there's a dark spot surrounded by light, then drops off again
you cant tell that it's darker than the ring because it is not DBE'd properly but i can see it with averted vision
i cant see this inversion on the right
i can just barely
oh yeah i can if i zoom in
that explains the dark dot in the m 51 test
great
with the orange display thingy its really easy
breh
i was going to ask if this was an improvement over M 81 but this looks like a mess
ABE revealed something i was completely unaware of

oh there's no celebration
there's still a dark ring
it's just not nearly as pronounced anymore
any thoughts as to what may have happened here?
this is my quattro data
i had a perfect field 2 nights ago
but now i have extreme tilt in the top 2 corners?
Camera tilt?
waiittt wahaaat
you got refractor stars D:
its just totally out of the blue
💀
im so not happy rn
nothing will work for more than 48 hours
shake ur cc and see if it rattles
it doesntr
i was hoping to say hey here look
okay thats good at least
is ur cam tightneded to the correc correctly?
bc that looks like tilt after the correctir
14% is considered mild?
I find it annoying when it's 8% lol
Also, 4.6" 💀
I got 2 of those so 40 minutes
dont know
it should be
i dont know and i havent checked
i havent touched the camera in 4 or 5 days now
nothing should be loose or even a little loose
have you had cold nights?
tonight
how cold?
huuh
In normal units?
thats not too much tho i dont think
do you keep the rig outside?
no
whats ur room temp?
I would hope around 20°C or so, that would be a significant shift in temperature indeed
Then it is cold 
yes
i dunno either
ill look at it tomorrow
it didnt shift after the meridian flip
just now
so something moved and then stayed after it moved
huuh
how would you know if this is after CC tilt?
its got the shape of off stars caused by refraction off axis
but if it was the entire focuser
it would have regular reflector stars
(afaik btw, may not be fully true)
hmmmm
