#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 31 of 1
Ah
I don't see the prices
Lmao idk what to use as weather app at this point, i used to check even the astronomy tools related one
Ah
Seeing can't really be predicted especially in places that have very variable topography
Its similar to the ones they put on their fracs and that gives people a bit of misery occasionally
Again it might just need loctite but if the steeltrack isn't much more costly why bother
On chart seemed pretty good, it can rotate, r&p, all sort of stuff i mean
I alr saw the steelrack price
Stability is the real goal, features are secondary
Its the same basically
Yeah i pretty much noticed
Has the steelrack a threaded side tho?
Look what i reslly want in a focuser is that because im tired of using compression rings that most of the time are floppy or in the end ruin evn the only thing the focuser should do which is yeah guess what keep focus
Otherwise i was thinking abt the new gso provided one which is just like the usual linear bearing one but r&p
Costs 100 bucks less
Yes steeltrack is threaded
The only non threaded focuser I would recommend is the feathertouch and even then I wouldn't really recommend it lol
I woildnt get it tho
Costs 1k
Does anybody trade all their setup for stupid ahh guinea pig?
People buy used
That's the trick to buying one lol
I love me a free feathertouch
Send me a single raw sub of your choice and I can measure the FWHM for you
In italian market its pretty much absent that so buying it from usa would cost me another 300 bucks
Ah btw, the steelrack can be motorized w the eaf or no?
Yeah seems like it def can lmao
If i could acces my files from back then sure
,,could,,

also, imagine having data to test!!
hahahahha
-# i laugh in sorrow
get m82 data
no
@harsh matrix did I ever tell you - I think I figured out why using high conversion gain and high full well mode at the same time doesn't allow for good flat calibration with the Touptek 571 and 533
You didnt but I was told by somebody else that high full well mode doesnt allow for calibration at all
Which i found out on my first night out with my 571
Haven't enabled it since
It behaves like negative gain
It's because if you set the gain too low, the sensor behaves nonlinearly. The effective gain drops off because the well can't hold electrons as effectively (it's probably the accumulation of lots of negative charge)
I use HCG+HFW on my 533, but the sensor has a different readout mechanism (14 bit only) and I'm actually not taking advantage of the full well depth with my gain setting
Interesting...
That makes sense
In my case I am getting pretty much exactly unity gain across the sensor with my settings so I don't mind not taking advantage of the full well depth
Calibration is fine
I guess I could disable HFW, but these settings work and disabling it changes the effective gain
True
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Same with my autofocuser. It Just Works™
With the backlash settings you used
interesting
okay I am worried it is the shadow of the secondary mirror
I found a similar example online and that's what they suggested
I am not sure how or why it would be visible and what all I can do to make it disappear
considering I can't even fix this on my RC without making things exponentially worse for myself
ohhh
that could make sense
i hope ur flats can correct it
lights are done
it was visible in the flats
as long as it was the exact same size and shape, we should be good

finding out now
looks like my scuffed RC
a dust mote survived too
however
I somewhat expected this
still not quite as bad as I was expecting either
here's what I think happened
this is how I installed it, the only way I could reach focus
this is quite obviously far from ideal with such a massive imaging train on it
nooo
I was worred this could cause flexture in the system
guess what
after meridian flip, the tilt in the corners changed.
poor guy 
So, I need to find a more secure way to attach this to the focuser
number one
lol
number 2 is I should paint the inside of the focuser
that is a very nice and sharp image tho
yeah
only an hour of lum too
the same issues are present in green and blue too
meaning this isnt a luminance only/light issue
this is definitely what I suspect it is
flexture somewhere
(like I said, probably that sketch af attachment
)
💀
it's dust on the sensor itself
the bigger ones are all on the AR glass
sneaky lil guy!
@harsh matrix do you have a Mele Quieter 3C? If you have any WiFi trouble, see this: https://www.cloudynights.com/forums/topic/876807-mele-quiter3c-wifi-inadequacy-fixed/#findComment-14023099
I'm going to check if the 4C might have a similar issue, because I feel like I'm not getting the range I should
But I also may sidestep this to get a dedicated router for my setup tbh...it actually makes sense
I have the 3C
I don't have big issues with the Wifi
I find my OTA blocks the WiFi way too easily, and I've been told that with carbon fiber telescopes this shouldn't be the case
Meanwhile my friend's ASIAIR gets reliable signal 50+ feet away through multiple buildings
though I forgot it does have antennae
wher colour?
12hours lumi :3
oh god 😭
offsets were bad so the stars looked more like lines than circles
green lost an hour of data
red and blue only lost about a half hour
lum lost 3 subs
lum is just too cool for that stuff
not all that bad
it's also just going to be the best channel considering that's what the general focus of the system is based around
isnt lums purpose to add signal and sharpness
yes
which is why ive worked so hard to get the channel to be clean
it will always be the best focused

I'm so nervous lmao
@runic violet bro, after 12 hours of luminance with a moon, it is definitely fixed
thanks so much man
this is incredible
none of that structure in the background lines up with dust
this is far cleaner than the last time i shot this much lum

it was the baffle tube length after all.
IFN EVERYWHERE

WOW
HOLY
There's a dark halo around the galaxy
If you want to make sure there's nothing you should MSGR or image something emptier 
you might be able to blame that on me

I have a good MSGR reference from myself
that's why I chose this
I set the DBE tolerance pretty high and put samples everywhere
smh
if any of them hit the halo of the galaxy even a little, it would nuke the halo

sorry im just
not accustomed to good data
I can give DBE another shot
I went aggressive because I'm used to needing to do that
DBE doesn't want to play nice
how's them apples
gaps in the IFN line up with the dark regions now
up against a reference
admittedly that is quite denoised to look for any other structure
the "raw" result is this
Still see a large dark circle
But it is moon data so whatever
looks yummy
exactly
are your stars ever so slightly oval?
if this was moon data from 6 months ago, this would have been a nightmare to look at
or am i tripping
you are tripping
high compression screenshots, especially on mobile love to make my RC images have oval stars
okay yea, those are really good stars
was about to say its probably compression
how does it even happen
is there like a sliight ellipticity that causes it to get amplified or something
no idea
it's happened to all of my images in some capacity
LOL
okay it is not the stars at all LMAO
guh
whats your fwhm in arcwhatchamakallits
not the best ive had
ive had rough seeing as of late
and i think collimation is still slightly out but the seeing is so bad that you cant even tell

3.06"
that's smack dab between my average and my worst
so it's on the least sharp side of everything ive shot but not bad
Fwhms not good enough to collimate precisely 
the color is sharper lol
I don't collimate based off of them
don't worry
@frosty shard the 850nm filter is probably the best light pollution filter i have 
and its a broadband filter
i got 108 photos
and only half of then are usable
biiig w
(cloud and wind)
the clouds completely dissapeared 50 seconds after i turned off my laptop
massively infuriating
computer is playing games with me
this does not look anything like it does in pix
imma revist it tomorrow in affinity photo where ill have much better control over the colors
honestly im going to try MSGR too
gonna do MSGR for DBE to get it right
Affinity for absolute control over the color
there's no way this goes wrong

Since switching to Linux I've found I get way more consistent results with color profiles across applications
yes!
im thinking right but i feel thats bc less int time
the right has twice the int
damn, i was guessing bc of the gradient 
nah
star size
the left is HUGE
we love fractor bloat
What refractor?
the gradient here im guessing is caused by tha moon
roughly 3 hours of luminance in bortle 3 is equivalent to about 14 hours of luminance from home with a moon
💀
not quite as bad as i expected tbh but it took a silly amount of light dampening to get the SNR on the RC to be this insane
in the past it was as bad as 8x more data from home to equal whatever i got in bortle 3
yup
it is only 50 secons of data
theres no gradient
and minimal atmos distortion
if i wasnt rushing and i focused properly it would have turned out well
its like all signal and readout noise
yup
do like
20 minute exposures
get that noise down ez mode

it should be good when i actually have the chance to take a nice photo 😭
i may have to wait until the summer
the MSGR result is not much different from my DBE result
there's a tad bit more contrast and that's it
or I can use MSGR to get the colors right

what ref did you use? i need one
my own redcat data
could you perhaps send a file
😩
is it perfect
hell no
could it use some work?
maybe
could it be better?
sure
but for 30 hours with a >50% moon, with a scope that used to be super rough, I kind of can't complain
that red bias is strictly from the much weaker blue and green channels
that's where that moon hit the most
Well whats the avg
Sure but it's more expensive and can carry less weight besides the tracking accuracy of a harmonic is good enough for diffraction limited 8 inch telescope and seeing like that hardly ever happens unless again you live on mauna kea which I'm 99.999% sure nobody on this server does
looks very healthy
pretty sure new skywatcher mounts run worse than the old ones
I mean ones assembled in the last 2 years
before that they seemed to come out great as long as it wasn't an EQM-35 or EQ5
I have heard and seen multiple instances where people have new EQ6-R Pros, like less than a year old, with main board issues, or worm gear problems
i wonder if the same could be said for those HEQ5's considering it sounds like the new ones can rarely do better than 1" RMS 
I caught my EQ6-R Pro doing 0.24" RMS on the second night of the M 81 project, and it averaged roughly 0.45" ish RMS last night
What do you think a harmonic track at? 3 arcsecond?
which these are the sorts of numbers you want to be getting to run an RC8 with uncompromised sharpness
Although it is worth saying that high RMS with a widefield setup, and even guide scope set up doesn't mean much
you won't know how well a mount truly performs until you get high focal length and an OAG and only an OAG
a guide scope will not be representative of a mount's true performance
What about clear sky chart also thats not true 99% of normal places ive checked are at 1"
Only mountain tops it says are at 0.7" even then its slightly on the rare side
my heq5 dithers for me for some reason
its the weirdest thing
i dont have guiding but it dithers very very well
0 walking noise whatsoever
and no, guiding-less dither isnt enabled
0,24 (0,55“)
I need to find a belt mod kit for my saxon heq5 😅 🤣
@harsh matrix i think i have an idea for you to try while you trying to fix the RCT
Try to detect some exoplanets
Clear sky chart is the same deal
It's giving 0.7" right now for me and I definitely don't live on a mountaintop
It might be bad for many places right now because of the jet stream, when that subsides you get impossibly low values
1" is an impossibly low value for normal places anyways
How
How come me with my 1 arcsecond per pixel i am always undersampled
My friend with worse tracking than me and bigger telescope always manages to resolve more detail under the same exact night
1" is quite llow
Not really 0.6 would be low even 0.8 is low 1 is kind of middle
Also I'm pretty sure the figures they give is for the upper atmosphere they don't take into account local seeing so if you can get above the first 200m (the boundary layer) of atmosphere I'm pretty sure you can achieve that figure
dawg these are mauna kea numbers
Yeah that's why they are low 
mauna kea is not the astrophotography standard 😭
Yeah it is cuz its the best 😁
Nyquist
How are you measuring this
the best? why not go with space observatories? your seeing sucks if it isnt jwst level 
Then that's a fairly useless/misleading figure
gas particulates at L2 are a little strong today...
Yup absolutely infact you seeing has to be -0.1 arcsecond
Eye ball really this was a while ago
if your seeing isnt lambda/d dont talk to me
Then I'm not going put much stake into it
drizzle:
Its probably this tho
where the fk are you
Doesnt really increase your details it makes it easier to see how much you fed up in processing but other than that not much else
Above the jet stream it's kind of hard to breath up here
So your actual seeing is more or less 2-3" fwhm probably
But also aberrations also play a major role
Yeah probably but one thing and idk what the issue was my stars wonder around is that seeing or mount wobble
Probably mount
There is one correct way to measure atmospheric seeing. DIMM
What is that
Dual image motion monitor
Thats how observatories measure the seeing
How do you do it
Ypu make an aperture mask that has uuuhm 2 appertures. You put a 0.06° optical wedge on one of the aperture and then you use fancy software to measure the amount of wobble of a star
0.06° optical wedge?
Yep
What is it
Something like this. It's just a prism. This happens to be a 6° one
How does it work in the optical train
Uuuh... it offsets the lightpath so you can have 2 images of the same object on the sensor
No i mean like how is it placed in the optical path
Like where do you put it and how do you put it
Right in front of the telescope
Define front after the secondary or infront of the primary
In front of the telescope
Ohh and the wedge goes in one of those "apertures"
Yes
Ohh thats simple enough what software tho
ALCOR
Although... they say "Contact us for price" that means the software is more expensive than the hardware 
Aw nahhhhhh
Whenever companies say contact us for price it is always ultra expensive
Well... that's why it's mostly used by observatories 😂
Death to SCNR
Fair point
Ok... for once, i like the one on the right
You disgust me
Hear me out. You need to balance the channels in yours
no that actually is true, the stars are too purple because I didn't cut down the green correctly
i could make the craziest of images with this
with like 8 filters
across the ir spectrum
and ha sii and oiii 
i love how it shows how stupid relative qe is
how important is cooling
@frosty shard ive sent a request for the true qe graphs for the 676mm, bet amma get ghosted or get some backwards reply 
very 
like whats a good feasible temp? -30c? is the TEC on that cam even different from other zwo cams
for that price it better be
should be a delta T in the stats
17k is enough to work on the cooling
i also may not be able to use my coma corrector with my 850nm filter
i feel like it may reduce possible sharpness
You should see the read noise and dark current numbers
It's 71e of read noise
Dark current is 9e/s/pixel
It is literally impossible to take astro images with it
wrong
To overcome the absurd read noise you need long exposures you can't take long exposures due to the absurd dark current
A simple peltier cooler is absolutely not enough to cool that camera
obv not
It needs a minimum temperature of -100°C
not really
It's infrared so yes
-50 to -60 should be fine
No at those temps you would have 1e/pix/s
its not like its 3um infrared is it
A black body emits radiation across the entire spectrum regardless of temperature but the amount of it changes based on temperature
That is basically what dark current is
Cant believe to open discord and find 2 guys arguing over a 20k camera
If the camera is hot enough to emit it's own radiation (in the same wavelength that the camera is sensitive to) it's hot enough to make the electrons get excited
well yea but im saying its not like its a sensor for 3um infrared
those are like borderline unusable
It still gets affected by it also as a rule of thumb dark current halfs every 5°C in temperature reduction

i think u misread
i think that should still be usable tho
barely but it should
So going based off your temperature that you said which was -60 and the dark current of the camera at -30°C that is a 3 step reduction in dark current and what is 9 divided by 2 3 times its 1.125
people arguing constantly in here
Crazy like nobody here together w all its money can afford it
But still they keep doing it like bruh imma get it tomorrow i cant wait it ships🤣
waiiiit
are you looking at the 991
amd not the 992
No not really it would if it was the same as a visible light cmos aka low read noise but because its not it you will have significant noise regardless of your exposure because noise is calculated as follow n=sqrt(n1+n2)
stacking exists for a reason

Mastering ragebait
Oops i was looking at 991 still 3.5e is 0.875e at -60
hehe
i noticed after a second
bit better but not a lot
would have to use it with a 2 meter f2 rig
You are trading it for a lot of extra read noise the 991 has 21e read noise and the 992 has 71
not averag human scopes
That is almost 4 times worst snr 😭
i dont think that read noise is worth the daek current decreeas
Aura
Not an argument a civilized discussion 🧐
they use a tec that only goes to negative 40°????
ur right they are dumb
._.
doesnt the sensor only cost like 7k to make
Personally i prefer QHYCCD version their TEC are water cooled so its significantly better
the qhy ones cost 24-30k i think
i wonder if the 990 is better than the 991 or the 992
ohhh the 992 has smaller pixels that makes sense
They say their peltier can get below -80°C with cold water cooling so like i said significantly better
ZWO just sucks
Okok hope so it seemed as yall were fighting for who was the more right haha
Like idk why people keep on buying form them
The only reason i find zwo to be better is cuz im lazy and since i bought the guide camera time ago totally clueless it was that and not another brand i just stick w it
dayum, worth it 
I couldve bought the player one 533 instead i got the zwo one idk why
wasted money :c
I just said man that extra 20ke aint gonna be useful since at unity gain all imx 533 dont go any over 18ke
Playerone way better 
Tbh i feel like no difference, in my case the usb hub was very useful and since p1 doesnt have it i had another rwason to get it
Yeah yeah i know it
Zwo its just like apple
what if the starvis2 sensor i want is only sold by them
They got a special LRN mode
Yeah a lot of companies do everyone but ZWO you pay more for less features its insane
Literally it's just ZWO selling subpar cameras
its a newer sensor from 2024
isnt that lrn mode just standard
What is it
imx676
im sure if i wait a year an astro company other than zwo will sell it
its only 2 year old
Doesn't touptek have it
waiiit
i dont know
i cant understand their naming converntions
No i dont think they do
they dont
What does that sensor have
wdym?
Like what makes it good that you want it
its almost triple the responsiveness at 1um than the 585
tradeoff is a 3% lower qe peak
or so
i am currently trying to get the proper qe graphs from zwo
it may actually be highter
but idk
i feel like the actual graph is flatter
it has 0.5 readout noise
which is goid
since the pixels are 2um big
so, lower dark current peak but at lower temps its higher
0.1 at 30°c is kinda based
when in the "hgc" its about same full well depth
isnt LRN the same thing as zwo's HGC
Nope, they're different things
In Touptek cameras there are three modes: low/high conversion gain, low/high full well, and "Ultra" (low noise) mode
You can use any combination of them
so 8 different possible settings
oh
shouldnt all 3 on be the theoretical best
but that is super shitty that zwo dont have it
No LRN is low read noise mode which reduces read noise even at low gain
Eh that's not really a good thing smaller pixels are the same as larger pixels at higher f stop
No we talking about a camera shes thinking of buying
with what money, aint she still a kid
Idk futur refrence
Pov you smoke that one recipe in schedule 1
If you know you know
until ur shooting orion
Why he got Cheetos for a haircut?
ayo chill out yo you playing with a 
ball knowlege reqired
Well in that cass u use 0 gain and u gave 50ke fw
I just shoot shorter exposures...
What about the dark nebula around it
you can still get dark nebula with short exposures
Yeah but not exactly easy especially not in 1hr int
i got dark nebula with 0.3 second exposures, whats your excuse?
you act like i cant get a job 
i got in 1 hr int
Yeah same but its not good is it
Too low snr
So i didn't count it
then get 2hr int 
Or yk get a camera with larger well depth and use two times longer dubs for better snr
Also to double your snr you need 4 time more int
Ngl there is nothing there
turn up your brightness
💀
the entire light grey background is dark nebula
Nope just looks like a gray background
you can see details 😭
A little on the edge of orion
the entire gray background is dark nebula
But yk isn't that visible
i did kinda cheat by using infrared tho
look at the background
properly
and see
the
details
No details
okay, this is just ragebait
Yes but also i genuinely dont see much
does this level of cookery help
ig i made the bg too flat coloured
No because the signal just simply isnt there
?!
You cant capture something that never managed to even overcome the read noise let alone shot noise and dark current
you can see a lot more definition in the cooked image
No matter how many pictures you stack
you can very clearly see it so i feel you are just trying to make a point that isnt there
i did capture it though
Yeah you did but I'm just saying that generally
;-;
There is still no detail on it tho mainly because of low snr and the fact that the region is smoothish
its even smoother in ir
which is where 80% of that images signal is
blue is red
and the other 2 are 685 and 850
The only dark nebula you caught is this the rest is just camera artifact and noise
use an ir image at least
stop trying to compare broadband to not broadband!!
It doesnt matter dust doesnt magical change shape just cause its nir
it looks different
What nir affects is most how transparent it seems
Also i would if i could
nir the structure is different enough
Which now that i think about it would change the shape slightly
thx for realising 
in some places it can be quite different tho
depends on how thick it is and stuff
But it wouldn't change its location tho nor would it reveal dust that wasn't there in visible
Infact it would hide dust that was already there in visible which doesn't help your case
which makes it a lot smoother
also, you are forgetting something
it does reveal dust that isnt visible in visible light
How
Unless the dust is actually emitting in NIR
some sorta radiation that causes the dust to emit ir 
from stars if i remmebr correctly
Which if it is it will also be emitting a faint red color as well
it may not
Then its too cold to emit in nir atleast enough to be seen by a camera in such a short int time
structure looks almost completely different
Is that ground base telescope
yea!
Not completely but difference nonetheless
look in the middle
that almost gap looking part
gets completely filled in
There are many parts that the dust only changes slightly
yea
one noticable difference is the reflection nebula sections are completely gone
But i dont think that is nir is it
it is
its 0.95-1.25um
it was taken with a ccd sensor
at 1.6um the structure has a massive shift again
a lot bigger than those images
idk where i could find an image to show it tho
Yeah but you used majority visible light and very NIR
So the dust will be similar to that of visible light
850nm is around where reflection nebs stop showing
so im gunna be doing a lot more 850 imaging i think
oof :(
eh, somewhat of a shift
(850 left red right)
But what wavelength did you use for this
685,red,850
wrong order
685,850,red
Check the dark nebula between the red channel and the NIR channels
you can see "structure" in the noise
ir is left
red is right
its a lot more defined in the ir one
You overdid the background extraction on the left image
Also thats just wavelength mechanics because ir wavelength is larger you can resolve less detail from the same aperture
ther is still the dark nebula visible tho
I meant you applied the background extraction to close to the nebula and clipped some nebulocity
Anyway case and point blue vs visible+ir
In a 6 inch telescope
i fixed yea
im ngl, the ir looks sharper here 😭
Taking lots of short exposures isn't bad for your SNR. It really is int time that matters more than anything
There's a lot of misconceptions around the behavior of read noise
Idk man if i take 200 0.5s subs of say orion the only thing i will have will be the core nothing else but if i do a single 100s sub i will have the full orion and some dark nebula
u here to save the day 
i didnt want to say anything abt it incase i slipped up 
Also what you said doesn't really makes sense because if it were true why would people spend so much time taking long subs when they can take much shorter ones which reduces the amount of data you have to throw away due to various issues
In the stack of 200 0.5 second subs, what's the maximum pixel value?
many big channels and stuff do shoot shorter subs over longer ones
Wdym
Unless you live in light pollution (which most do) shooting short subs is bad
If you're looking at previews of the stacks with identical stretch functions, the stack of 200 0.5 second subs is always going to look worse
Just auto stretch on both
autostrech stretches the "best" way it can for each image
In the stack of 0.5 second subs, you're likely not even close to saturating any pixels, but an autostretch function may not handle that case well
Meanwhile in a single 100 second sub you may blow out some pixels, but the fainter features are brighter and the autostretch function has less trouble with that
The best way to compare is to normalize the brightness of each stack
and then apply identical stretch functions
Quick case and point both of these are similar lenght in int time the one on the left used 10s while the one on the right used 30s actually i think the one on the left is over an hour and the one on the right is a bit over 30 minutes same camera same bortle no moon
Wait wrong image
It was this one
Side by side
As you can see the one with 30s subs is significantly cleaner
I can't actually, needs more JPEG
Do you have the raw data to work with?
Not right now
Cause I'm not home
Np
To do a fair comparison you'll need to multiplicatively normalize the data and apply identical stretches
One thing that I should also point out is that if you take shorter subs, read noise (assumed to be additive from the pixel offset) is going to be a larger proportion of the image
However
if you take a bunch of short subs, you average out the read noise
so the per-pixel variation from read noise is reduced
determining an exposure time, for me, is about getting the brightest parts of the image near saturation without clipping
The problem with going too short is more so about the amount of data you generate
you also have an advantage in pixel rejection/artifact removal when you take shorter subs
@frosty shard these gradient look SOOOO much more managable
Oh the fix worked, sicc
yessss, thank u again for telling me about it!
The math also says longer subs are better
It is a bit idealistic (my example in the image doesn't take into account all the efficiency losses only that of the sensor) but still works as a rough estimate
You can make it more realistic by just doing the math for more losses (i was too lazy)
Tbh i think i should make a python script for that 🤔
Question is will i have the motivation for it
my laziness does not use this much effort to try prove myself right 😭
It's two steps to calculate it takes like a minute
How are you getting 22.3 mag/as² for the brightness of the Andromeda Galaxy? That is way too low
Its the avg surface brightness
The core is obviously much brighter
you wrote wayy more than a min of text
Hey fella
I don't think you would be able to see it at all at my nearby dark site, which has an SQM of 21.3
are we all one
But I've seen it there
Correct

All you have to do is find the avg surface magnitude which you can google no need to even use my formula then find how much light it emits
Again you are seeing the entire disk you are just seeing the core of Andromeda with some really faint spiral arms
takes more than 30 secons
Aren't*
oh wait it really is that dim
I mean I can see Triangulum naked eye direct vision at a marginally darker site
(Bortle 3)
Very difficult but doable
Makes sense its 23mag/arc²
There are only two variables in the final formula
The amount of photons reaching your sensor and the exposure lenght
So you can literally coppy and paste
What are the units for Sobj, Sskyfog, RN, and DC?
Unless you change setups then you need to redo the equations
Signal of object, skyfog (or shot noise), read noise, dark current
No, what are the units - is it photons/second?
Im 90% sure its electrons per second for anything noise related and signal related
Read noise is a fixed contribution and should only be measured in electrons (per exposure)
It is
Oh right i just remembered half of it is simply to calculate snr lol
But how are you adding quantities in electrons/second (Sobj, Sskyfog, DC) to a quantity in electrons/exposure (RN) without a conversion factor
Thats because the dark current and shot noise are converted to quantities by using the same exposure you used in the previous calculations
Oops i just realized my example doesn't explain that
Mb
You need to add the final noise to the equation so say your dark current is 0.05e/s/pix you arent going to put 0.05 in the formula instead you multiply it by your exposure say 30s which multiplied by 0.05 is 1.5e and you put 1.5 as your noise
I'm treating this as equivalent to what you're saying (t is time and n is the number of exposures), do you object?
Like the usual SEM estimation, the noise (error) decreases proportionally to the square root of the number of exposures
the question is how significant is varying t and n given that t*n is constant
Or wait oops
Gotta multiply S_obj by t everywhere
or is it by t*n actually
yeah it has to be t*n
Actually I'll use this form instead where T = t*n is the total exposure time
D is dark current, R is read noise
For a given total integration time T we want to find out how much changing the number of exposures n will change the SNR
@frosty shard yk the class cass "rasa" modification
i think i would have to remove some baffles
I'm guessing that would compromise its utility as a Cassegrain?
Why are we squaring it?
Squaring what?
sqrt maybe
The answer to this, btw: it only matters in situations where the read noise is high the signal is low, and skyglow and dark current are negligible
The square symbol it over the function
im hoping flocking could help somewhat
Maybe I’m confusing myself
you mean the radical in the denominator? That's from the assumption of shot (Poisson) noise, which is proportional to the square root of the total signal (photon count)
Ahh crap I read it wrong
Ok that makes sense
I start doing math 2 and I feel big brain ✋🙂↕️
@stiff mason https://www.desmos.com/calculator/hmjzd3qttn
x-axis is exposure length, y-axis is SNR
And you're right, it's actually extremely flat for, say, imaging the Andromeda Galaxy in Bortle 3 skies
luckydromeda
do i image a broadband target
or should i wait for mono to do that
yk what, i will wait for mono to do that
what
explain formula plz
tl;dr I'm trying to figure out how much sub length matters for SNR
just swamp your read noise and ur good
but ig that's what you're trying to quantify
The answer I'm getting is "nowhere near as much as I thought, and I'm not one to take long exposures"
browi are you a baked bean enjoyer (inportant)
how many millimeters is 3"
75mm?
br*tish abomination
you are mean :c
3*25.4mm
thats like 75mm
76.2 🤓
-# bobs singing is hella impressive, im listening to it while im doing discord stuff 
ur mean
For the Andromeda Galaxy with the parameters UNID gave there's not much of a difference in SNR between 3 second and 300 second subs it seems
The aperture of my very first telescope. Ah, nostalgia
also, thats like 30% mirror area taken up by the corrector for a 6" mirror
huh
so an 8" would only increase price by like 200
hmmm
(brobaly more than that)
There's about a 1% gain in SNR lmao
PERFE-
this is why 15 second subs are the goat

maximum fractional loss as a function of sub length would be interesting
because stuff would cancel out yk
fractional loss?
like %SNR lost in worst case
Ah
ig that just means assume optimal conditions
This is actually even more interesting when you factor in pixel rejection
assume a 99% loss of snr by default 
Me when I shoot with the dust cap on
pinhol
amma make a pinhole with 1500mm fl
rejected pixels with short subs hurt your SNR less
though at the same time you could face issues with fixed pattern noise
I don't think it's a huge deal
imagine doing 0.1 second subs and dithering each frame 
One of the things you have to remember with the Touptek low noise (ultra) mode is that readout is slower, so I can't manage more than 4 FPS with it anyway
from personal experiance you can usually dither every 60 seconds with short subs without issues with drizzling
So 0.1 second subs are pointless
😭
its the perfect sub length 
you do need to make sure you get more than 60 seconds of data tho 
The thing is, FPN becomes a bigger factor when you take more frames, because you have more samples of the pixels. So when I dither it's pretty much always a frame count interval, not a temporal one
a oke
What is n also RN needs to be squared
No the top Sobj doesn't need to be multiplied by t because it is already calculated before hand (the top part of my calculation)
T should be exposure time btw not integration time
Thats how noise is calculated its the sum total squared
Fancy
The reason for that is because you multiplied the top Sobj by T which is the wrong parameter
It has to be integration time because you're measuring noise in a stack
That is done after the snr is calculated
And it's quite simple 4 times the int double the snr
After which SNR is calculated? Sub SNR or stack SNR?
Sub snr
That's not a fair comparison
I want to compare stacks with identical integration times but different sub lengths
Yeah you can do that
You just have to get the snr of each sub first
Then multiply it by the int time
I believe you multiply the int time only for the snr of the object basically your noise stays the same
Actually that doesn't make sense
Oh right okay scratch what i said before @frosty shard
So basically you need to put the total time (in seconds) in this top half here
S is for time in seconds
Wait but that would be per sub
Okay I'm confused
Ohhhhhhh
Okay so noise grows as the square of time and signal grows linearly
Quick 10x60sec Ha and Oiii in HOO pallette.
Shot noise should only increase proportionally to the square root of exposure time for a single sub
Read noise is a fixed contribution per sub
Yeah
I did the math for 1hr of total integration on Andromeda with my setup at 300s subs the snr is about 0.528 and the snr of 3s sub is 0.0527 if we use 1hr worth of images they both reach 1.72 which is interesting
Because it's a low snr considering i used the sky shot noise from b5
I think it's because when i used to measure the surface brightness (which i got the size from stellarium) the size was too large and as a result the surface brightness dropped nope it's correct mhmm 🤔
Idk i double checked the math is good probably wrong formula for calculating snr of a stack also @frosty shard watch this video https://youtu.be/EMdEhQD2WxY?si=a3bc-VP4bNlxbcNK
I demonstrate that astrophotography thing you've never had time to test yourself!
No sponsors today :) Just doing it for the love of the game.
Support the channel by buying Dylan's Telescopes, Cameras & Equipment using the links below!
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Celestron RASA ...
See look I'm stupid when i was doing the calculations for the snr i forgot to turn the photon flux of the sky fog into electrons per second 😅 correct snr is 12 took a while but i figured it out
finally a clear ish night
grabbed some m82
focuser works great but now I can see how off my collimation is
well this is what i snagged its like 24 minutes
for the time I dont have much to show but aye atleast it works again
Its there and its a beauty
Why is it green?
If this is pseudo gri, it should have looked almost like an RGB image
But still... IRGB should look more like a deep red rather than green
why is there barely any IR in there !!!
speaking of IR
do you believe its wiser to get an autofocuser or a full set of IR filters to make an RGB image out of purely different NIR wavelengths

I never process images the way they "should" look. You should know that by now 
Soooo... you just gonna image r',i',z-s'?
mmm no
ill divide the NIR part that the cmos sensors can pick up into 3 roughly equal parts
and image those to combine into an RGB image
The H-alpha signal is overbearing
I also compensated for the width of the IR pass filter
You just defined how the IR side of SLOAN works
well i havent really looked into SLOAN
mainly because i did it once and saw ridiculous prices
Isn't this what ya trying to achieve?
not exactly

though looking at this chart ill have to rethink my filters a bit
well essentially yes
When you said to split the nir side of CMOS in 3, ugriz was the first thing that popped into my head.
Because I don't think you are able to detect anything above 1μm
well yes
but not with the photometric filters nor with any overlap
and photometric filters are so expensive for no reason
getting the ones in IR would cost me 420 EUR
Nice
i was constraining myself to not say that 😭
Hear me out. You buy one filter at a time
mmmmaybe
Not a lot of people are buying them
gee i wonder why
"reasons"
What I mean is that if more people were interested then the companies would have a reason to invest in faster/better machines to make more of them for cheaper
Rn they are quite niche
At least for amateurs
Low demand = less manufacturing.
I thought about going for the right one myself once
Definetely one you dont See as often so id Take that one
iant right a herbig haro object
im gunna struggl
This?
pretyyy
Herbig Haros are cool
ya!
Which target is this
Is it the one in corona australis?
in taurus
ah
Hind's Variabile
It has an NGC number as well.
Very simple to remember
NGC1555
Close enough is good enough 
woudlnt be suprised if they were from the same clump of gas
i think they are 
I agree
Missing a panel, so it's time for a WFPC crop!
Please ignore the gradients in the red channel, I think I normalized the stack incorrectly
Okay corrected version
sorry i was hungry
such interesant targer!!
WFC2 pic
You know I forgot I can literally just go walk and see the original WFPC
It's on display here at UW-Madison

you should just barely have it in frame to piss people off

have it in as much as you need to but no more 
look how long they waited too
waited a week and said nah, wait 2 more
hubble var neb very pretty
it looks really silly too
its just a small
in a sea of nothing
oh yes
@frosty shard ir is weirdly good at shooting through clouds
im getting my avg hfr through them 
(too thick clouds now its 4 :/ )
noise removal works way too well due to the lack of any noise but one or two types basically
brehh
im so pissed
trying to do a harsher rejection by manually doing stuff
but siril refuses to leave the data undebayered
what is this shitttt
theres no option to stop it from debayering?!?!??!?!?!?
Do you have the debayer box checked after the calibration step?
And are you drizzling?
its auto drizzling during the registration step
even tho the option is unchecked
amma just give up
too much effort for today
amma just stick to mono stacking script and do manual culling
I'm massively integration deficient and just aiming for a quick preview, but asfter taking a very quick peek at my IR data on NGC 2403 from last night, it seems the central region is way brighter in IR
yus
Makes sense
That's where the oldest, longest burning stars would be located.
I have to figure out this crater, next.
I'm surprised how much brighter it is considering how there's no bulge to the galaxy
You took this data during a favorable moon phase right?
I took it with no moon, correct.
I had dust motes during the first look too but they went away with new flats.
Pretty fricken weird
Also they werent embossed
They were just uncorrected altogether, like the flats didnt work.
Once I figured that out, took some new ones, I was left with this crater regardless of exposure.
M63 believes it is some kind of reflection.
If you have an ideas as to where and when it is developing, I am all ears.
The orientation of the gradient within the crater changed since the flats I took last week
Which to my knowledge, nothing has moved even a little bit since then, so I'm not sure what would make that occur.
I assume you haven't rotated your image train at all?
No
Another thing I noticed is that, while it's always been present, it changed size after I went from the scuffed new baffle to the good new baffle
It went from about half that size to that size after I printed the new one and seated it correctly.

