#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 30 of 1
this is 2 hours of lum from my backyard with the full moon
@frosty shard I was talking to the friend of the guy i bought my RC from, this friend told me about the scope, and he said that he thinks the baffle extension might be too long
I think he is crazy, even still
but im looking at this data
and there are no dust motes...

aside from that
beautiful edge on spiral
im going to go hard on it this season
Oh sicc, from tonight?
Wait... You fixed the RCT?
No I'm not 
Thanks bro
Anything pixinsight I missed? I'm out of the loop for sure
Anything blurX?
V1.1 of MAS
Ok cool cool and has pixinsight come out with a new update?
Yes sir
Cool thanks man
i need all of you to cross your fingers for me because if everything goes right and I am really lucky
I could own a 10'' Truss Ritchey-Chretien by summer
JOIN US
Satanic ritual incoming, currently tracing the pentagram
@harsh matrix What’s your backlash settings
We have around the same weight on our focuser
meowogram
what autofocuser do you have?
Zwo eaf
then I can't help you
you have to figure that part out on your own
Gang should i get an 8 inch RC or a 10 inch rc i feel like 8 inch what do yall say
Lol what mount
I will get a harmonic later on probably something like a ragdoll 20 pro or MlAstro sl33
Well i will get the harmonic first
i think you could pick either of them with those mounts tbh
i know a dude running a 9.25" SCT on an Umi 20S
he gets insane numbers for a harmonic
stuff my am5n can't hope to achieve
You have to trust those numbers
@harsh matrix How do you test to see how much backlash you need
I.e. need oag, phd2 not asiair
It's because of the low pe which is at a reported 10 arcsecond
run an autofocus run and see what the graph looks like
Ok cool thought so
if it has to "ramp up" before there are significant changes in focus, then you have to count how many changes it made before that change in focus occured
Why not noot
then based on your step size, multiply that number by your step size for a baseline
might need some fine tuning to get it perfect
Got it thank you
Do you want a portable setup or a permanent one? I'd say that's the deciding factor
My 8" RC is pretty portable with a strain wave mount
I feel a 10" would start to get unwieldy
Well i will be taking it off and on so portable id say but idk how awkward carrying a 10 inch will be
10 ;3
Eh actually perhaps a 10" would be fine - I'm coming at this from the perspective of not having a car and not having a yard to set my scope up in
Yeah the weight isn't my biggest concern it's the size of the telescope because 30lbs the size of a tungsten cube will be easy to carry but a 30lb carboard box not so much
10" closed tubes have like 16" diameter tubes
They're giant
The truss is even more on steroids
Not sure why it's that important if one has a car though because you just take it from the car onto the mount
Yeah thats my problem really from the car to the mount from the house to the car altho the ladder isnt too difficult
okay the full night before DBE
looks a bit weird but tbh, not as bad as i was expecting for full moon luminance with a shorter baffle tube
That's the full field (IMX533 + reducer) right?
yeah minus the cropped artifacts from stacking
Do you understand why a longer baffle tube is a problem
yes and no
The reason I think having it shorter is a problem is because you could already see past the secondary mirror directly outside with the stock extension
so shortening it is counterintuitive, on the surface
It can't be too short for obvious reasons
But it can't be too long because it starts intruding in the light path

Likewise it can start providing internal reflections when it does so
yeah ofc
it already is doing that with out an extension
The ray traced optimum is what you want and nothing else
but if the internal reflections are not so severe that they render the data useless, such as in this case, this could realistically work...
There's always going to be internal reflections you have to dampen by flocking/painting
But intrusion into the path makes it an order of magnitude worse
hmmmm
so I told you
I had to break the extension I made strategically to test this
which makes it stick 3 or 4 mils out too far
I am going to take measurements of it and redesign it in a way that works better
the result could get even better
also like I said, i painted the tubes too
so as far as that goes, cant do much more there, but I can repaint the primary mirror retaining ring which could possibly improve things further too, because I flocked it for a while, then removed it because it was coming off, now it's shiny again
maybe you can look for yourself, but none of this appears to be from dust sooooooooooooo
huge win?
this is almost 4 hours of data under the full moon
if there's a problem, it would show by now
Oh man that looks so much better
right?
this is so weird to me
but it makes sense if you take the theory into account
we went from this to the result above in about 2 weeks
this had dust motes
and the above example does not
this was less data on a moonless night
It's good that I saw that msg 
which one?
that I thought you were crazy?
I see there was a method to the madness now
oh wait im a dummy
yes it is good that you saw that one
Something something give up on rc
yes
Sct joke somewhere in there
A true Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyer improvises, adapts, and overcomes
so now I want to try to improve things further but adding baffles to the inside of the baffle tubes made things worse...
I have to be rather strategic about the next choices I make
Though I don't blame you for being frustrated with the baffling problems at all

Nobody online mentions that they discovered this problem by having stock baffling that was TOO LONG
I'm more of a gregorian enjoyer these days but same difference
There are at least two cn threads

now im interested
well uh
i wasnt expecting full moon lum to look so good
maybe i get some color when it goes away

Wouldn't it make more sense to get color while the moons out lol
And lum when it's gone
yes and no 
i did notice, last night, that the disc of the galaxy is warped
i love seeing this sort of thing in such clear detail

Go image the integral sign galaxy
This is what caused my friend to sell his C6 and get an Askar 120 APO
i do not believe ive heard of that before
Cursed image quality
what mount u gonna use
Imma be honest there's a certain quality these kinds of internal reflections provide to images that I actually like...but at the same time I want to, like, opt into that
I actually had a stupid idea for getting more impressive diffraction spikes in my images: put a layer of saran wrap on my spider. Easily reversible if it has unwanted effects
LMAO
okay i thought i had an example of light spilling over into the frame from last year
but then i noticed
look at how bad i had things a year ago
😭
Looks exactly like the flat artifact I had!
(But worse)
that stupid PoS reducer
I totally need to hit up M109 though

did it look a little sum like this?
Oh no, but you can see the evidence in my IC 10 image
there's dust motes in there too
ohhhhhh
was it the NIR issue?
or was that on every filter too?
The greenish halo around the galaxy is from the flats being unusable due to that reflective adapter in my imaging train
It showed up in every broadband image, but it was worse in NIR because I took NIR data at home during higher moon phases
OHHHHH
yeah i had that stupid adapter too for M109
In Bortle 3 it was not very significant
seriously and it's such a simple fix too. Especially important since M56 adapters are rare
yup
I bought another one btw, but that one was also reflective!
(From a different manufacturer, off eBay)
I got it because it was knurled and that makes it easier to remove if I need to, but I just flocked it and it's caused no issues since
You can see it in my NGC 2403 attempt as well
cat!
I really need to get more broadband data on it soon
I am also very tempted to do a straight SHO image of M82
im going to torture the hell out of an EQ6
whrn u gunna shoot morr
when weather dont suck
Once the nighttime low temps are above -10 celsius
of this
or maybe ill get a Ragdoll 20
idk if an EQ6 pro can handle a truss RC10
sad :c
it probably can
oh right I should prioritize some Persus Cluster data
oh i know
can i file dommnthegears of it
say what now

Tbh im not the right guy to ask for those things, i use siril thi
extension redesign complete
identical dimensions, just slightly narrower press fit design to comply better with my printer's tolerance
also have gaps in there to let the material bend into position instead of having to be forced in
*identical to the one i downloaded off the web a year ago
cant modify the model directly in fusion
oo, fancy
are you gunna flock it
no im going to paint it
it is a perfect fit lmfao
Okay interesting
Something i noticed back with the totally bone stock baffle tubes was that they'd glow bright enough to create a feedback loop between the tubes and the secondary mirror, where the glow from the tubes would bounce up to the secondary and get sent to the camera.
I see no glow from the tubes on the secondary mirror whatsoever.
before and after the temporary solution was removed
right side is with the permanent solution in place and a couple of other things done to remove light leaks and stop internal reflections
that ring in the middle is due to the baffle tube
another coat of paint on some previously painted things too
just more darkening overall but using most of the stock metal parts without flocking
honestly the non ABE'd flat is really clean too
oh god this is a flat with the same system back in may of last year, also a luminance flat
it's so drowned out by stray light that you can't make out any of the features underneath
this is a sky flat
could be part of why
new config is a lot more even
i have not found any examples of people with a tube too long online 
was hoping to maybe build a model of the RC by using the radius of curvature in that topic on CN but everyone is assuming the focal length of the system is 1600 mm which is just not correct
i need it to be roughly exact if im going to design a proper baffling solution
Wait a minute hubble optics makes a CDK 10inch telescope
Same type of telescope that are super popular like planewave cdk17 and stuff except yk it doesn't weight as much as an african elephant
You will have to do some ugly math and scripting in fusion360 to get the radius of curvature of a hyperbola😅
Yeah
Corrected Dall Kirkhams aren’t that rare
There’s a reason they’re a popular observatory telescope however an RC is still superior
A CDK in the current market is just a RC that's faster and easier to collimate
How so
No refractive elements
And iirc sharper
Though the optics need to support that
CDKs are easier to manufacture and collimate
A good CDK outperforms an average RC
RCs are not sharper they're both going to be diff limited
Oh yeah right 🤦♂️
I forgor
RCs also need refractive elements from a corrector anyways
mmmm not always
The self correction of RCs is enough for the smaller end of sensors
Though for the purposes of observatories yes you want a corrector
Fair
So in the end everyone's going to use a reducer/flattener
Tbf I just generally love the Ritchey-Chrétien design so I’m biased
Cdks are easier to collimate and manufacture
Because neither mirror is hyperbolic
What shape is the secondary again?
meeow shaped
yes that's why its so easy to collimate
Yeah but at least like CDK are supposed to be aberration free in a large image circle
CDKs are quite literally uncorrected Cassegrains with an inbuilt corrector
So no different to an RC with a corrector besides the mentioned upsides
Cdks are generally faster instruments
For amateur purposes they're superior to comparable RCs
The delta rho is even nicer but is a bajillion
But an RC with a corrector is the same F ratio
Cdk14 is natively f/7.2 and goes to f/4.7 with reduction over a larger field anyways
The apex is nice but it doesn't have a huge illuminated field
what about wynne corrected class casses 
basically rasaing a parabolic mirror
Isnt it the corrector that makes it f7.2
Also generally speaking most CDK ive seen are more expensive than equivalent RC
Like the 10 inch CDK from hubble optics is almost 5 thousand dollars while a GSO 10 inch RC is about 3 thousand
There's a reducer that goes on to push it to f/4.7
No because those aren't equivalents, the equivalent to a Hubble optics CDK would be a Hubble optics RC which doesn't exist
Planewave/observable space makes both cdks and some rcs
GSO RCs are really cheap because they have cheap mechanics and mass produced mirrors that are roughly made
They're a nice bang for the buck but they're not premium grade optics like HO or planewave
Strehl is usually ~0.9 with fairly rough surface accuracy that creates a lot of scattered light
The reason why the high end suppliers don't really make RCs is because the design doesn't make much sense for them since cdks are more suitable, as for why GSO makes RCs is probably because they're not suited to fabricating the corrector and would rather make good enough hyperbolic mirrors
This is the Correct Mentality™
BE the chad
DESTROY refractors
ELIMINATE coma
AND be the Knight in shining white armor
muh noot
HO is roughly about the same they have 0.95 surface accuracy
Also I've been looking into the SBIG AO-X and at least on paper it should provide significant improvements in seeing in small to midrange aperatures like 6-10 inch telescopes as their aperatures are small enough that they are only looking thru 1 atmospheric cell which only cause low order front wave errors like tip and tilt instead of high magnitude aka boiling
So theoretically it can provide diffraction limited results for an aperature like a 6 inch
Also it does basically remove any mount wobble as well
Like those caused my mechanical and wind
In strehl terms 0.9 and >0.95 are very different
~0.82 is the diffraction limit for reference
It's just a very nice OAG that consumes a lot of backfocus, it does not do a whole lot aside from that
I mean
the kind and humble 0.994 OOUK 12''
10 hz is not a lot
Yeah but still better than nothing
Idk
Ig we gotta wait and see whether a proper AO becomes available to us amateurs that doesn't cost an arm and a leg
vs an OAG or ONAG, idk
ONAG is probably the better idea
Remember even if you could push to 50 Hz the guide star SNR and measurement is the main limiting factor
Multistar guiding is likely more effective then this anyways on a well functioning mount


looks really nice 
Yes 
Yeah but a mount cannot fix the wonder of a star
We're not getting AO anytime soon
What exists for amateurs that costs an arm and a leg is only effective in NIR
Optical AO is extremely difficult
This is actually making me wonder
One of the big advantages of the RC design is that without coma, you get minimal field distortion as well and star positions are very accurate (good for astrometry/mosaic stitching without distortion corrections)
Is having a permanent pier really that much more beneficial then with a tripod
How much of that is negated by the atmosphere
I mean in terms of consistent setup and stability, piers are fantastic. But you lose portability, which may be important to you
Hmm ok with my bigger setup I wanna make it permanent but wonder how much of a rms difference it will make
I already use a CGEM tripod “ same same as eqr-6 pro”
im gonna look into this
What are you comparing to
With a CDK or any glass corrector you automatically have a wavelength problem
whats the cheapest adaptive optics out there?
Well there is like two and it's not really Adaptive Optics it's more of an active Optics
There is the SBIG AO-X and the starlight express one
I want the one that does atmosphere not mount only
Those ones do reduce the effects of the atmosphere to some extent but nothing diffraction limited and also the biggest improvements are for small apertures
its prob not a worthy buy for me but I will look into it
Like
at 1000 mm it prob wont affect much
There is an improvement there
what was the no correction one
Top is no correction
its says 1hz
Yeah 1hz is just normal atmosphere
oh
At least i think
Here is the website https://diffractionlimited.com/product/ao-x/
I wish there was one for smaller sensors
Also this is a simulation and not real life performance
ahh
Real life performance is hard to track down because the only reports come from people with terrible mounts from 10 years ago
I have the AO-7 and even if it does not correct so much about turbulence, it almost erase every little movement from the mount and the scope ! Even if there is a bit of breeze, it can correct it.
So expensive, yes. But you have in return an almost perfect mount !
Which in of it self will improve image quality
so guiding on steroids
I even tested using the raquet at low speed and found it can correct it 😂
Pretty much
It's a really good oag
whats the raquet
Also, the 10Hz isn't the limit ! It depend on the sensor used for the guiding. And at the time, it was pretty terrible... Nowadays, you an litteraly film stars
wdym film stars?
Sorry for my english.... I want to say the telecomand ? The racket ? The thing to move the scope
I know a project and it goes at 150fps
oh
is this the same thing but for smaller sensors? https://diffractionlimited.com/product/ao-8a/
Controller*
Tip/tilt frequency is 10 Hz
That's the limit
Yes, the main problem is always the mount in a first place. It is everytime worst than everything else
The ao-x can allegedly go up to 50 Hz
But it doesn't matter because you're unlikely to have the requisite snr in any given position
There is a guy on YouTube who made his own deformable mirror lol https://youtu.be/TPyQI7bJo6Q?si=AcSWEUPP4ZdRd9wO
Chapters:
00:00 Intro
00:15 Visit to SCHOTT AG
01:38 Adaptive Optics explained
07:56 DIY deformable mirror design
10:10 About NEG ZERO glass-ceramic
11:40 Building a deformable mirror
14:45 Magneto-motive force and power dissipation
18:54 Interferometric measurement using Wavefront Pro
24:24 Making and mounting the ZERO face sheet
27:15 Measure...
No, you can go at 15Hz actually when you have a bright star
what if you had an ONAG
or do ONAG's not have brighter images?
Yes, good demo, but not good enough for now... I can't wait the evolution of this project !!!
This is not a limitation imposed by the star necessarily but by the mechanics
My correction was 15Hz I assure you 😅
But most of the time you are stuck at 5fps or less...
Because of the low sensitivity of the old sensor
That is why ! I will modify my AO-7 to adapt with a modern optic divisor !
Like this, I am not always forced to use the SBIG S-T7. Good guy, but he need some rest at that point 😂
Only damn problem, the long backfocus... But, with a Cassegrain, no more problems !
he made a glass ceramic mirror too :D
i love that guy!!!!
(he was the one that inspired me to look into ray optics)
@harsh matrix do you know offhand what your backlash compensation is for your Gemini EAF?
I may pull my rig out and I want to set some sane defaults for autofocusing
also do you use the Hocus Focus plugin?
I do
85 out
And do you know your step size for autofocus?
Not at the moment.
@harsh matrix Id like to get an oag, any ideas on which one?
Do you have a filter wheel?
The SVBONY one is fine in that case
I really like the QHY OAG-M Pro but you need a specific filter wheel to use it.
I like the Askar OAG quite a bit too but the Svbony one might be better value
Nope
Ah i saw it
Yeah maybe
How abt zwo one?
Antlia has a OAG + filter drawer combo
Liek a single adapter thats an OAG and a filter drawer at the same time
I know its really rigid cause its cut from a single block of aluminium
Im not sure how much is costs tho
Well
Not great
But not a lot more expensive if u got an OAG and a filter drawer separately
The OAG L itself from ZWO costs 250 eur here
Yeah…
@tulip iris Maybe it would be worth it to consider it
If u get the L one yes
I was considering the standard too
But idk if an rc6 w a 120mm mini can work w that
120mm sensor is fine for the standart OAG
But bigger prism more light
Id get the L, its safer if U wanna upgrade
Yeah i thought abt that
Thats right
Atp id get the the svbony one but ehhhh
Idk last time i got a svbony thing was the canon t ring and the tolerance space between thr pin that locks the bayonet and the rest of the body of the t ring was just too much
Since that moment i stopper buying svbony
I would really get a more modern sensor
Oag at high FL with that only really works in the Mw
Asi 220 is okay?
Pls dont tell me i have to buy a 400 buck sensor
290 is more modern
220/sc2210 is the second best thing you can get
It costs 400 bucks
I dont wanna spend this much for a guide camera i wont use for anything else
Mhm okay, even tho i heard its more sensitive but w oag maybe not too great
178 its another damn expensive one
Aint it an old sensor too?
The player one should be 300€ after taxes
In Italy
Yeah i know thats the one adviced for oag but its crazy, i should spend in the best case 600 bucks
Sedna-M
My bad
Direttamente dal sito della Player One
Ah now makes sense
Colgo l’occasione, sono compatibili con le zwo? Pk tengo la 533 da poco
Sono due cose separate, non si interfaccia mai con la fotocamera principale
Se invece intendi se è compatibile con asiair, boh
Forse é meglio discute in privato se in italiano btw magari qua si triggerwno che ne so
use a 585 as an oag cam
Bruh
Bruh

Put a filter wheel on the guide camera too
Ill go for the 2600 atp
And an oag in the guide camera's path
U forgot the flattenet
OAG inception
my 585 is gunna be my guidecam :3
imx455 as a guide camera
is imx 585 anygood for a guide cam
Completely overkill imo
In bigger telescopes it makes sense though
Imx 461
Like, I can see that being used in, say, a 14" RC
Thats the point
I have a uranus c, and I might get an rc, Im gonna upgrade to uranus m pro, so a 585 seems good
rc by rc 8 or 10
Im just broke guys dont say those things🥀
It's not 1.25" though
You'll need some adapters
Dont do that, or at lesst if so consider u gonna spend at least double the price of ur scope
I have rc6
for the rc 10 compared to 8?
Indipendently by the sizw
Its the rule of thumb of rc scopes
If u plan on going cheap forget that
Its not gonna happen
Yeah, the difference in price between 8 and 10 is insane
It's the best
585 is good all around.
if im gonna get a 10" scope it will be an rc 10
but 8" would be f/5 newt
rc 10 like 2200 right?
or I could get an sct from cloudy nights
guys I won't lie
this is pretty darn good
for data with a moon out
and some passing clouds
i deleted the subs i could see clouds in but as i forgot to blink and delete as i went, i had to pick them out in WBPP SFS
yeah i think it stacked some clouds
really not bad then

Damn the full moon really do be ruining images
nothing
no dust
i think some of this weirdness is because i may have had high cloud all night without knowing
a little bit might be ifn too 💀
that is what it does best
but it cant seem to ruin them much more than giving me a strong gradient now

that's 3 hours and 21 minutes of data
cant wait to see what else this scope cooks up tbh
I did get a teeny bit of IFN

the small slightly lighter fuzzy patch above this star
I'd say this was the most successful test in months
it's essentially flawless
no glaring issues
other than the clouds
@frosty shard how's that collimation

i dont know how it's this low at all
my corners look awful
Is that native FL?
looks like I have unbalanced off axis astigmatism
no it's with the reducer
i hate the reducer for one reason only
it makes collimation an utter nightmare
I wouldn't even bother with any adjustments at that point tbh
me neither
except if i put the 571 back on here
this will be horrible

The seeing must be pretty bad then if those are your HFRs
luckily that big sensor should make it easier to identify what adjustments need to be made
ASTAP always estimates really high
oh it's also estimating on the M81 nucleus too
Pix was saying my average FWHM for the night was around 3.96 pixels
yes
it's not very smart
2.89" FWHM
oh you know what else it could be
i figured out my back spacing for reducer elements with the ZWO EFW and Askar OAG is way off
im 3.5 mm over 55 mm back focus
this is where the back focus is with the 533 and the apex 
so i need to find some way to shave off 3.5 mm
okay
RC picked up IFN
that's a first
not a small amount either
the background is filled with it
I did another round of DBE thinking it was something I missed
no, that was all IFN 💀
it looks like cloud haze or something
that's a first for either of the RC's I have owned
usually when I shoot a spot I know has IFN, the IFN gets buried under a mountain of other problems which makes identifying the stuff impossible.
plus, those problems created a massive SNR issue
now with a shorter baffle tube extension, I'm using more of the primary, which made the scope even faster

guess I just forgot how much there was here
my frame is literally all IFN outside of Bode's
Ceres-462M costs like 180
Unless you had the unwise decision to get an asiair
@sterile pendant at this moment in time, it appears that the cause of all of my troubles... was the stock baffle tube extension being 25 mm too long... from the factory. 
Bruh
Properly modded newt > GSO rc > cheap newt >>>> regular sct >>>> edgehd imo
i thought the tube was too long!!!
i think you got some ifn
Aaah !
Interesting !
And now everything is resolved ?
seems to be
Do you think it is possible there is the same problem for the 6" ?
nope
my Carbonstar RC6 did not come with an extension and had obvious light leakage issues from around the secondary mirror
the tube was only 150 mm long and did not have any extensions
afaik the 6's do not come with an extension from the factory
but my 8 came with an extension long before they were standard and it was just cut out to be 50 mm long which just so happens to be too long 
Damn 😭😂
It took a bit of your time this problem 😅
Hopefully, it look like the end
way too much of it
luckily it seems to be done eating up my time
now it is time to put it to use
Do you have some clear sky ? 
What a luck…
I can confirm that
Wow das crazy
How much integration?
What mount you gonna use
Damn
3 hours and 21 minutes
I might finally get to image again tomorrow
Hopefully checkout of the autofocuser won't take too long
Tbh, worst case I can just find focus with the Bahtinov mask and then mess with the autofocuser after moonrise
whats wrong with scts?
if I get a 10" ragdoll 20 pro or regular ragdoll 20
Ooh same
I alredy have the ragdoll 17
Nothing really they are pretty much the swiss army knife of telescopes you can use them at f2 or f8 both at native fl or add a reducer and use it at f5 they are super versatile but the optics aren't as good and clean as say an RC
What's your guiding like
I havent got guiding yet
Many SCTs have stray light problems because they're not really baffled
ah, ok
Spend the extra for the pro
The features have saved me lol
I know they have better pe, but what else
exhibit A:
I have seen this artifact in almost every SCT I've used (visually)
Even the EdgeHD versions
Physical limits/sensors. it’ll always find home regardless of what software say. So I use the button to force going home when my software messes up.
An advantage not to be understated
Why not
just got the mount recently
What is your guiding like
ah yes the
Oh nice
o)> artefact
I’ve only used it like 5 times. And I kept swapping guiding
I’ve tried a 30mm guide scope. 50mm, and an OAG.
So I don’t have long term data, but so far I’ve gotten it to be around 0.5-0.7” my recent session. This is with the OAG. I’m still tweaking my settings of course.
Damn yeah those SCTs will not survive a second in bortle 9 lol
Imagine shooting the honse with one
What about tracking what is the longest sub you've taken with it
Imagine having a bright street light 10 meters from your telescope
5 minutes. I haven’t attempted anything higher since I typically stay between 2-5 regardless
What about FWHM how good has that been
Haven’t looked at it. But that’s more affected by your scope and camera combo
They have no redeeming qualities for deep sky compared to RCs
Your mount wobble will play a big role in it as well
The only thing here a sct can do that a newt can't is f/2 and the optical performance there is poor
yea but since my scope/camera is different from yours idk how useful it would be. But either way I haven’t checked
My seasons all been meh cause I’ve had technical issues
Recent session was great but my EAF didn’t work in -3F. So I threw out the data :/
What scope and camera do you have
Askar 71f and 533mc pro
I haven’t used my RC6 yet
The artifact is worse when there's a bright star in the field than when you have streetlights around (assuming you don't point near the streetlight)
Fair
You should
I can’t
I was waiting until I know guiding is 100% good to go. It’s also cold AF. I’m not learning how to collimate this thing in -8F. Like that ain’t happening.
I got a reducer from brain so that’ll make me more confident on guiding though
Also gonna get an EAF for it
Almost every aspect of SCTs is worse compared to a gso RC, from strehl to contrast to CA to even mechanical stability, field performance can be comparable if you leave the sct at f/10 (edgehd) otherwise it's worse
because mono is unfathomably OP
Looks very nice actually
Ah i forgot u use mono
it has some color balance issues, mainly because my red channel has far better signal than green and blue
so there's always a red bias in my broadband from home 😭
Yeah but doesnt matter tbh
Result is very promising
Indeed
Can somebody gimme a tip on what settings should i use when dithering
I feel like im not doing it correctly
how does one pronounce ritchey chretien
for what its worth, I personally dither every 3rd frame by 5 random pixels
hope and prayers
dang doing great
mono really shines with Ha on galaxys
in rgb aswell
Rich-ee Kray-tee-en
or like
Kray-tyan
I do every 3 frames but by 8px
that is not just from creatine 😭
Ik
But creatine does help in muscle building so
i expected a single blue sub in my yard to be completely devoid of life
but no
quattro f/3.45 go brrrrrr
the quattro is the one thing that may restore my hope for HaRGB type images 
uh okay
pop off

got a few issues but I wouldnt say it is unusable
GYATTT

I did use sky flats and some clouds snuck into those which wasn't supposed to happen
so that could be a minor part of it
not a deal breaker since I plan to crop a little anyway
nb or bb?
Broadband
paracorr is here now
gonna try to squeeze in first light after this sets tonight
we will see if all of this weirdness is fixed or not (with the 571, the 585 will probably be perfect)
Yes
Unavoidable with the current config
They might be gone with the paracorr
It can do both visual and imaging
Paracorr V2 specifically
oo nice
Welp. My dreams of imaging tonight appear to be dashed. Wind just massively picked up
Did you ever measure the baffle tube?
Oh right I'm gonna see if I can do that
I am at the club dark site so idk if there is tooling to do it here, but I'm gonna have a look
Also the autofocuser does work!
Get ready for the best FWHM's you've ever seen
Whenever it's not windy
Even with this wind...man I should have done this earlier
woooooowwwwww
@high aspen I got a better DBE
no more weirdness
also cropped out the corners because they seem to make it way worse
I should really have a close up look of it
Yes you should
And then maybe we can do another collab to try to steal IOTD 
I was thinking about imaging the Parade of Animals
A little more data on Abell 426
@tight lodge Paracorr first light is here
post DBE
the remaining weirdness should easily correct out with flats

My RC basically has this exact artifact and that appears to take care of itself now
even when it doesn't, I can suppress it with DBE enough for it to not matter anymore
it should handle the 585 flawlessly
that's the hope
looking good 
oh wow, thats like really good
yeah
especially considering the moon being out too
not sure what the dark part is
seems like it was present before but always calibrated out possibly?
and if it isn't, I haven't popped my ultimate on this scope yet because the stock CC was longer than the focuser draw tube
I can still paint and/or flock the drawtube
maybe something on the secondary or primary?
or on the sensor?
definitely not on the sensor
and there's not a big enough splotch of something on either mirror for it to be on the mirror
what's confusing is while it looks like it was present before, it didn't seem to change shape or size whatsoever
no
it isn't present on my redcat and it's a totally different size/shape/position on the RC8
whatever it is, it doesnt appear to be in my imaging train
it appears to be with the scope
ohhhhhhhh boy
what if it is the dew shield

I captured something entirely unrelated
i dont know what this was or how to identify it
back to back lum subs that were 3 minute long each
Where in the sky?
next to M106
M106 is in the right half of the frame
if it was a plane it had to be slow asf
so probs not a plane
Probably not tumbling satellites either
That is a wildly small scale
line!!!
speaking of small scale
ama say smol debris that exploded
yes there's a line
but exploded twice?
why would it be the exact same magnitude 3 minutes apart?
waiit whaa
and not the whole way through the frame?
first time was bright enough to give itself spikes
diffraction spikes
yes
can still see them in the second frame but they're total ghosts
wow honestly
very impressive
very
now @ 9 hours of broadband on this thing
w/ a quite well managed background all things considered
insane detail
am sniffing this out with blue light filter on so... don't go too hard 
i a lot of the time end up doing that 
I expected all of these tiny filaments to be complete mud due to the light pollution
I am very happy they are not
this should make a very nice HaRGB image
maybe Sii if that data was good
i think 850nm is almost uneffected by light pollution
bc the atmosphere looks completely black
Is this with the 571?
hubble var neb is gunna be fun with my 850nm filter
i wonder if the ir data is being used to subtract from the g filter
the diff in dustyness is crazy
Soooooo
Mr pickles made me get interessted in rc
Originaly i wanted a celestron c8
Is a omegon carbon 203/1624 good ? Costs around 1500€ and i will decouple it as he told me
i think most gso rc's are built the same
As i understood by what he told me i dont need a corrector when using a 585 or 571
Amazing
About collimation, is it any different then on a newt?
Bc i used a newt for being mobile and it didnt work for me since i allways had to recollimate… so i sold it but now i want something with much focal lenght xd
yea
star collimation is the way
i think you can use that to start with the alignment
sometimes they come collimated a decent way so you should check that too
If i buy it teleskop-express.de they will collimate it before shipping
So it should be easier to collimate it when i get it
Any upgrade you would perform except decoupling?
Sony IMX183 (mono) is an equipment item of class Sensor on AstroBin equipment database.
way
660 hours and no awards or anything

honestly dont know
i would like an rc bc its a decent scope
What i thought about is adding 2 heatbands for the mirrors and 3 fans on the back for cold air
Simular to this
the fans is a good idea
Prob gonna order my rc at end of autumn
Before that i want a askar103 so i can still drive around without worying of collimation (ik im a bad guy)
soon™
Backyard universe got you covered ma guy
It clean
No you need it for a 571
Its the RC i got and im pretty satisfied with it
Did they get more expensive tho? Because Mine was about 500 less :/
You don't need it for a 533/585 at native but I would not use it at native because especially with the 585 that's basically oversampling
Hows it possible, ive been checking prices every like 3 days and its always been around 1500 the carbon 8”
I mean, a decoupled rc holds better than most newts but is more frustrating to collimate, a nondecoupled rc is a can of worms depending on heavy the image train
The steel tube is 1000
Because i cant read 😭
I have a Steel tube thank u for pointing it Out!
Dw
Thats what i thought
@crisp flower How good is the one u have? I got the smaller 6” but literally i need to change everything
Tbh im in Love with it
I Had some reaaaally big Problems with it in the beginning because i was using the wrong Method to collimate it but ever since i got it right i have Had No issues and its performing great
Alr
Except of some relfections i Had in my Images but those we're caused by shiny surfaces in the extention Tubes of my 533
I will add a mono 585 with filterwheel and oag 😂
I have Not used it since i got them fixed but soon i hope
Like, same tbh, no i did the mistake that when i bought it i was slightly clueless abt the flaws of the system so i soon figured out the focuser and shi like that, other than that same, even tho idk if my collimation is good cuz i never collimated it since i got it
I would 100% slap a ccdt67 on that
Shiny sufraces in the 533? What i use them too but i i didnt see anything
Well thats not the reason why i want something with much focal lenght :/
The First time i got it it took my over a month to get it right but now its fairly quick
Theres also Not really a need to recollimate because it holds it so goddamn well
There's not much point to that focal length with such tiny pixels
Nono the extention Tubes Leasing to the camera system
Can't beat seeing nor physics nor any mount limitations
I think i can agree cuz mine is here since 2 yrs and i havent collimated it yet
I will prove u wrong xd
Even tho 1 yr i didnt really use it bcz i havent got time
I already proved many wrong with my saxon heq5 that is 21 years old
Which ones u talkin abt? Rc ones or zwo?
I mean look at your current fwhms / guiding numbers
And 600mm apsc no guider 3 mins exposures with almost perfect stars
I get down to 0.2 total with a 21 yo heq5
I will buy a ragdoll 20 pro
0.2 arcsec?
Uhhh
Neither
I have a touptec rebrand
The surfaces within the RC are all fine but every single one from the camera and Guide Cam are shiny
Its just 0.2 and the (a number with ´with ´
0.2 doesn't mean much without units
Ah okay, yeah it can happen tho oof unlucky
But you need to figure out what your limits are before just deciding to go for a billion mm of fl
Yea i guess
I dont know how Long i wouldve Run around with These If @frosty shard didnt hint me towards em
Btw i think hes referring to the number on the left of the arcsec values, like idk what unity is that, its just a number
This was with my 21yo heq5 the worst number i see in nina
Do u use the 533 on native fl?
Yessir
Just cuz i do lmao, idk maybe too much oversampling
I feel like im doing somethibg wrong
Why
Why so U think so*
Whats your guiding setup
Pixels
Oag with a gpm462m
Mathematically if u got an aversge fwhm its oversampling but idk, ngl sky fwhm changes day to day so i dont stress too much abt it
This still has 21yo bearings and grease
Exactly thanks i lowkey forgot abt rhat
What scope
mine moves 0.3 pixels but that dont mean shit when its actually moving 0.45 arcsec
That was when I had my Quattro 150p reduced to f3.45
But now I run a sv555 😅
Got it
Im Not looking too hard on fwhm atm (i think im having some issues with my collimation and These are adding to fwhm i think)
Whyd U Switch from the 150p?
wants to collect less light 
I may actually be affected by the same, ngl i dont have the tilt backplate plus im still sticking w that linear crayford focuser they privide it w which is ass and doesnt even have a screwable side so i have to use compression ring lmao
Bc I wanted to stay mobile and only had one scope
And as a apprentice I didn’t had much money for a second scope setup
So I sold the Quattro
To get a sv555

But now since I’m done with my apprenticeship I want to get back in for a second setup that will stay at home

Im also running everything Stock
Im thinking im having issues because i could Go to about 1.2 average Star size when doing an Autofocus Run and now i am averaging about 2.1
But what's the best
Xddd i got it but i still think its sad
And have you measured fwhm
I feel that
Sold my beloved phq80 and c8edge for the RC and some extra
585 native on rc8 is 0.37"/px which requires 0.7-1" seeing which you don't really get almost anywhere but the most topographically perfect places
Got no pic but I remember is 0.42‘‘ or so
I average around .6-7
So unless you are getting 1-1.5" fwhms frequently enough this is too much FL for that cam
The guiding number only tells me the mount isn't a huge problem

Well at some positions it got some problems xd
It could be better but it's probably going to be better with higher FL oag
That’s why I need new bearings
was the rc worth it tho 
c8 edge is no loss
At least u got the linear bearing focuser right? Does it slip or is it fine? Lmao i thought my issue was that a 850g dslr was overload but slipping even when using a 533 without cables is lowkey crZy
Well 21yo
Wait u forgot to mention the part where its 21 yo
Im jk
Btw for that age rms aint bad at all
Fun fact it got a skywatcher heq5 sticker on the side but it was sold under Saxon
Why havent u thought abt getting a rowan belt mod?
Mhm okay but it could be better than amazing too w that
The problem is I looked it up
Just smoother movements yk
I didnt follow up really, whats the issue u gotv
And even the bearings are different size
Ah so no compatible
100%
Tho i still Miss the phq
Ah atp just stick w watchu got and change the mount definitely
Bit i cant use two big Setups atm
Yep will mainly use the ragdoll 20 pro then
The heq5 will stay at home when I wanna go somewhere else
It doesnt Slip i thonk
Why go harmonic? A good ol eq6r never disappoints
Has better pe too
Ragdoll 20 pro is a am7
But cheaper
Except when it Burns a hole in its Motherboard Like Mine did 
For 2000€ I will get the ragdoll with tripod and pier
Okay, cuz im researching a good focuser to switch mine w and idk i just found 350€ ones, my wallet
It Worth tho
Whatever it is, its harmonic, well idk if u count on portability and no worries abt weight balance okay
Shortcircuit?
Also i want it for portability
Harmonics only make sense for portability and not much else
Crazy i have my gem28 rocking and its all great
Ik, any tips for the focuser by any chance? Idk which one to buy😭
Unless its for that i wouldnt advice it
My overloaded mount tracks better than any harmonic u want, unless u talking abt things such as a wd20
Probably
Baader steeltrack hehe
Well I got the tools for smd soldering
@runic violet just cuz ur here atm, native fl rc6 and 533 is good or should i buy a reducer?
Nope tbh
I Heard of some that are great Here but i cant remember their Name xd
Crazy tho, humidity shouldnt get into those places
I will always advise a reducer because 99% of the time the FL is not terribly useful and the increased etendue/fov is more useful
Unless you find yourself on an ocean plain or on a tall mountaintop lol
I didnt find any proof of people attaching it to rc scopes, like i checked the markets here and all the ones they sell are for scts and newts and fracs
It aint that easy
Okay dw!
Googled and I found them
It's the Baader m90 adapter that you need
Is it really like that?
If you want the reality check measure your fwhms
Yup
Was really confusing to See ngl
My height relative to the sea is 100m🤣
Idk dude i swear id trust whatchu say
Ccd67 or gso reducer?
Do you think you have good seeing
The model tho, i gotta buy the refractor one?
I repaired a brpken stellavita, asiair plus and upgraded vram on a rtx 2070 super
Otherwise i was thinking abt a ts one which is 350 bucks but seems good
I doubt the ts one is worth it
I feel you, sometimes is good to give a look at your stuff, i usually do a check on the insides of the mount, like i just check the engine covers belts and motherboards
Unless I'm grossly underestimating the cost of a steeltrack for you
Tbh it depends, on some nights meteoblue says i got even 1 arcsec of seeing
Don't worry about refractor, your RC uses a m90x1 thread
It may be marketed towards skywatcher fracs that also use that thread but it's the same thread
If u want i can send u a screen of what weather app says atm, even tho its raining so
Meteoblue is always wrong but the fact it says you get 1" at best tells me enough
Most people get like 0.3-0.5" out of meteoblue because it's so dumb 
Its this one, just to show u atp
So I'm guessing you don't get very great seeing
Nah i trust watchu say
Maybe what it needs is loctite to work properly but not worth the risk
Okay so i just get the m90 flange thats what matters
Don't, search the cost

