#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 27 of 1
just fry it then
easy fix
max bxt nxt and max topaz denoise
the instagram strat
i havent actually logged onto insta in a while
absolutely
yes what kind of palette is it
ISH
would that be NIR, sulphur, hydrogen?
Yes
If you like pain, shoot IR
wwhy pain
Low QE, increased diffraction limit
You need a ton of integration time
ir isnt pain liar
From what I heard, NIR is not as affected by LP as Broadband. NIR is outside of most street lamp spectrums
yeah
so on paper it seems to be beneficial for city users
considering you can capture the milky way in b9 utilizing it
(cuiv did it)
It's like a city dweller's option to Broadband 😂
Atleast they didn't call it an SCT
I May have done a Thing guys
what thing?:)
They’re grouping it under the same category
@tall summit this thing
#1326833769495269376 message
This thing
onions
did you bxt it?
I did a light bx on the starless
Running it on the combined Image deleted some galaxies and binary stars

i thought it was pure
I think i Ran it on Default settings at 0.2 intensity
Unfortunately it isnt
I was concidering to do both but then i got tired and forgot
Maybe i'll redo one tomorrow
Got this one comparing the bx and no bx Version tho @high aspen
Still fairly Sharp imo
can i have the data to try with not bxt
Sure thing, give me a few minutes
That is really quite good
Got an EAF setup today
Getting average star size 2.3x", is it good, bad, normal?
2min sub
Thats pretty average
Thats around what I get a lot of the time.
Tnx. Are there any must do tweaks? Step, backlash etc?
In order to improve focus? Or dobt bother at this point?
probably but i dont know what you are looking at as far as backlash so i couldnt say definitively
@tight lodge i fixed the flaring you were so perturbed by 
What did you do?
vodka
@frosty shard apparently the gso mirrors have (at least) a strehl value of 0.83 so diffraction limited
Got backlash figured out and adjusted, hopefully that helps with a focusing routine
Supposedly theyre 0.9 strehl or better
wia
why do people keep sending that whats up with that
Do you see how close the filter wheel cable is to the power cable on the mount?

ohh
yeah ive seen the video

If that cable bends backwards even a little
the back of that 150 though 
Its game over
is that just tape
Looks like a 3D printed plug with flocking material all over it.
he called it a buttplug in one of his videos 
In all of them you mean
I couldn't get the server to let me send that

Cuiv is built different
@harsh matrix Today I successfully deflocked the spider. Now I should get them fat diffraction spikes 

Hell yeah
Wow somehow you're worse than Cuiv
You actually have a collision there.
Yeeep... almost an expensive oopsie.
If the telescope was 0.5cm lower, that cable would have had a baaad day
Yup
@high aspen This one is as pure as it gets.. no ai tools, no sharpening, no denoise and no be
the ai version has been stretched better i think
I straight up don't think I'll be able to shoot until January
chrimas lights?
It's –15 out in the daytime
And I don't think I can take my RC to Texas
After adjusting backlash on EAF, i think its a best focus I had. 2min sub with so-so seeing/guiding
2.1"
My guiding Just isnt working anymore for some reason 
Like today or in general?
Today
It worked Last Time wout any issues
Now it find Stars but when it Starts to callibrate nothing happens
So im imaging unguided right now
Found the issue
Astrophotography, also known as astronomical imaging, is the photography or imaging of astronomical objects, celestial events, or areas of the night sky. The first photograph of an astronomical object (the Moon) was taken in 1839, but it was not until the late 19th century that advances in technology allowed for detailed stellar photography. Bes...
I'm doing what I can to turn my rig into a Wikipedia star
what is this a part of?
The Motherboard of my eq 6
Ugh..
Yea
Im Glad i did find that
Tho the RC is now Out of service until the new Motherboard arrives and i get it installed
Jup
I thought the Motors we're having issues at First but then i decided to smell at the hole of the polar scope which then Led me to inspect the motherboard
No Idea how that happened
"smell at the hole of the polar scope"

Looking Back at this Message i did Not notice how awful this sounded
Teasing yall.
what is this called?
Carbonstar owners, how often or what temp delta do you use for EAF to trigger autofocus?
I don't have an EAF but I find I rarely have to refocus, period. But you were focusing manually before right
I was, and generally carbonstar keeps focus pretty well, but last couple of sessions it was getting a waaay below freezing point at night, and focus started getting off ever so slightly
gotta love that quartz mirror
Borosilicate mirrors don't warp with temperature changes. Most likely is the focuser contracting.
M78
Or the tube itself
meant it in a good way, it took a pretty harsh temp drop to make stars go very slightly soft.
If the mirror was warping your stars would look curse
herbig harrow reference?
My setup has developed a misalignment between pre and post meridian flip::( How do I troubleshoot this?
Wish me luck guys
Acgually I should probably give it another night to make sure its not a fluke
Good luck!:)
Do you use an EFW? 
Nope
OAG?
Try this test. Install the camera as you do during the imaging session and then try to test if anything rotates in your optical train Basically you grab the camera gently and try to rotate ir left and right and feel if there's any play. Any offset weight (OAG,EFW) can rotate your camera slightly
I discovered that one of the vixen saddle screws was not tight at all, I am hoping this was it
ITS DONE
Lets Hope that guiding works now and that i dont need to Switch Out the Motors as well
Shouldn't be the case, it moves/slews in general, right
It does
The Problem only occured when i wanted to start guiding
@frosty shard the RC might be find
It just doesnt play nice with such a big sensor.
Im not seeing the same artifact severity with the 533 as with the 571.
I can probably use the reducer too.
in my experience, reducer actually narrows down your usable image circle
It does but it covers a 571
It will be more than adequate for a 533
sorry, thought you meant with 571. that sensor size worked out great for me
yeah thats how they r supposed to work, they concentrate the image circle to increase the intensity of light
its a testament to RC design that it still works for aps-c
whos RC design lol
everyone's?): in general
Vel might have to say something about that
The RC's image circle is suitable for full frame as is (not saying the field quality is great at the edges, but it's going to have no trouble illuminating the sensor)
So an APS-C sensor should be fully illuminated with the reducer
Flat artifacts?
Thats about all I can chalk it up to
Since the ring of illumination that was present in the 571 is not present in the 533
Ruled out the filter wheel?
Not necessarily but I dont really have any way to do that 
I could give it a shot in a moment however...
The problem in the 571 flats looks a suspicious amount like a baffle tube that is too short.
And I have no idea why that would manifest on a 571 sensor and not a 533
Actually thats a lie
I got excellent flat calibration on my M78 and Boogeyman data from bortle 3
I used the 571, 7x2 filter wheel on my redcat 51
An issue I was observing with my 533 and filter wheel on the redcat was completely absent with the 571 and 7x2 afw.
Actually the 571 had an exceptionally flat field.
If there was some kind of problem with that filter wheel, I think it would carry over and manifest on other scopes and so far, the evidence does not support that as being the case.
You know, I have an idea about this
When I sent those photos showing the reflection from my bad adapter, I noticed the tip of the baffle tube seemed more reflective than the rest
See what I mean?
Its because it is
Perhaps flocking that would help, though it is a tricky position
Oh you already caught that nvm
It helped but not enough to erase the problem
Anyway I'm flying to DFW so I will be disappearing
Ayo
Welcome

Anyway, it looks more reflective because the baffle tube can catch stray light from around the secondary mirror no problem
It gets illuminated by light bypassing the secondary mirror and that's what I believe is creating my problem.
If the 533 can image within the perimeter of that illuminated ring, I think you can get around the problem.
The 571 simply cant be spared.
Hang on, do you have a baffle extension?
There is a know issue with the primary mirror tube baffle, when its not extended enough
Yes.
It came with one.
Before that was ever discovered.
The total length of the baffle tube is 200 mm.
That issue came about because the baffle tubes that were too short were 150 mm.
I was getting a crazy cirle shaped gradient that coundt be dialed out with any flats
Ive had it in multiple instances
All RC6's have a baffle tube that is too short
Even to this day
I didnt know it was too short on my carbonstar until I already had the 8
Thats when I measured both of them and found the 8's to be beyond what was recommended in that infamous video and found the RC6's to be only 150 mm.
It got even more exaggerated when using a 0.67x reducer on that scope but that specific reducer created an anomaly that never calibrated out at 55 mm of back focus.
Strangely enough if you extended the back focus by another 20 mm, the circle vanished and flats worked again.
But that i found all of that out with a 533
The 571 revealed way too many issues
@harsh matrix I actually went through a lot of back and forth with HighpointScientific with samples and everything, first thinking that maybe my specimen was an old stock or something. They still didnt admit to it, but kinda went all out
check this email:
Nah yeah they brushed what I told them off as well.
I told them the baffle tube was an inadequate length and they showed me a bunch of screenshots about how "it doesn't matter" but in all fairness, this was in response to the ring of illumination that reducer was producing.
@harsh matrix
Tbh this looks the exact same it always has. For the 533 that is.
Adding the filter wheel and OAG made no difference in the flats which tells me that the filter wheel and filters are not producing the artifact I see on the redcat, and that other issue woth the RC seems to be related to the larger sensor of the 571.
What a pain 
Oh this is like a copy and paste of the email they sent to me in response to my question.
Must be a blank slate copy and paste response they prepared because of the making of that video.

The last 3 paragraphs were directed at you only though
That stuff was not included in the one they sent me
Thats where it diverges
looks like they did the work on that one
Also same goes for when they said the length is adequate for the native focal length.
Well they did but I think they didn't at the same time.
I dont think they accounted for just how reflective the interior of the baffle tubes is.
This was just, ridiculous.
They look like theyre a part of the secondary mirror
Thats a good chunk of why flat panel flats dont work with this scope
why did you decide flocking vs some super black matte paint?
And another reason why ive done sky flats since I got the scope.
Only problem was, my sky flats started giving me worse results than the flat panel flats
I had no clue why that was and still dont really.
Because the super matte dark paint that I have can still reflect more light than the flocking at that oblique of an angle
It would do a much better job up close near the camera but not that far from the camera.
It would definitely help but not to the same degree as flocking.
Also its a royal pain to stick a paint brush in the long tube
Getting an even coat of paint would have been a headache.
thats true
@harsh matrix I get this flair on some stars, what does it look like to you?
Sort of looks like a heat plume to me.
how do you mean
Like a bubble of hot air is trapped right in top of the primary mirror.
I see the same sort of thing sometimes.
Oh great the green filter still has a hotspot.
Okay seriously why do you have so many issues with flats
because the hobby wants me to quit

this is an ongoing issue with just the red and green filter in my 1.25" EFW
I have antlia lrgb-v pro filters in both filter wheels, and only the red and green ones in the 1.25" filter wheel have any issues
I think they have a defect
What if you rotate those a bit in their sockets
Does the issue follow?
yes
it will remain roughly where it is
here, look at what i just sent Antlia, this is my control set of flats
taken with my redcat 51 and my 2" set of the filter series im having problems with
now, same scope, but with the 1.25" filters.
not there on the quattro (though the quattro has other issues)
There on the ritchey
I mean its not unheard of to have an edge defect on your filter and i think the edge just has ever so slightly worse optical transmission then the center
Thus the bright center and dim outer
Maybe you could put your eye up to it and use a light too see if this is true compare the brightness of the light at the center vs the edge just to make sure its not internal reflections
You're a genius 
That explains this then
Your ha looks very similar to my scopes light leak
I stuffed every single hole in that telescope. Ocal colimation is pure nightmare 
It's simply pitch black inside the tube
Do both of you use one of those flat automatic flat panels
no
not on the quattro no
or on the redcat
i just got one on my RC but the filter issue above predates me getting that
im making a cloudy nights post about the strange double reflection my quattro never fails to acquire
ill link it to you if you want to keep an eye on it
i need to know if anyone else has experienced this and if they ever fixed it
I will try to remove one of the filters and take a filterless flat
Please do
Yes please
That bright center is why I avoid flats😭
You both should try a sky flat at some point
didnt work
this was the result of sky flats
this was tracer panel flats
Uhhhhh... not great
extremely bad tbh
Damn
What sensor size is this with
Damn well i got nothing did you take the filterless flat yet
https://www.cloudynights.com/forums/topic/987864-skywatcher-quattro-150p-double-reflection-problem/
@tight lodge @stiff mason
here it is
Cheers mate
That's why I said that I will try to take filterless. I haven't tried it yet 😂
You should also include some screenshot of the master flats
i provided the master files
in the drive link
i can give it a shot
screw it, done
Idk thaught maybe you have done it by now 
gonna get like 12 people saying, I dont have a problem with mine 
because they will all have been imaging with a 585 in bortle 4
i genuinely have no fricking idea how cuiv got his to work in tokyo
no idea
im clueless
this problem reeks of coma corrector and yet that unhinged lazy mf managed to make it work

Or 12 different answers that are not helpful. It's CN in the end😂
Maybe, he's like everyone in the #📡-radio-astronomy
Close enough is good enough
it's not even just close enough though
he legit has perfectly flat frame calibration
i dont understand

alright well
ive got about 3 nights of quattro m42 data ive yet to look at
i want to stack it and process it out of depression
gonna cope with it

@tight lodge one 30 second sub per channel of M42?
darn camera cooks too hard
even at 30 seconds
💀
Yes... it's very sensitive 
almost too much 💀
Still excited about a starvis 2 571?😂
Wait... you said you want to do lucky imaging on orion?
Sharper images as well
yeah but thats not going to happen atp
What is happening when it doesn't?
How much integration?
1 hour and 53 minutes
Heh... welcome to the world of short integration time
explosion
Its working again 
I don't even have problem with my quattro and i have bright ass light pointed straight at me
Well thats not true
I do have the problem but background extraction fixes it without any problems
Again
Makes no sense to me
I dont get it
Have you tried a flat without a coma corrector or any filters at all
Yes
Same with lights
The problem vanishes
Its the coma corrector picking up light from the sky
That's literally the entire issue. 
How are you gonna fix it i saw people were talking about baffles on cloudy night
Can try that
Congrats!
RC season never stopped
about the signal of my 30 minutes at f3.9
It is but its up further with the rest of the reflection.
And it isnt to do with the filter
Its a ring reflection ive had with this scope for quite a long time.
Every season is RC season (but we get to gloat in the spring when there's no Milky Way and all the galaxies are out)
@harsh matrix Did you shot the Cone nebula in SHO?
Yes
Have not had an opportunity to check the full integration out.
Can I see?
I had a much more important obligation to attend to.
I only need it as a reference. Idk if I should go for SHO or RGB
I searched on Google but all I can find is SCNR nuked garbage
I did not have nearly enough Sii or Oiii
that's totally fine.
Someone very special to me wants to use my telescope to take an image, and she choose the cone nebula... kinda Xmas themed
I'm thinking of getting an RC telescope which one would you guys recommend
alright i hadnt posted this version anywhere because I intended to save it until after I showed it to my family but i got more data so it can go out now
I reprocessed the data in affinity photo and pushed it super hard
@frosty shard I am feeling inspired, may return to university to finish off my bachelor's. My account with the university is still active and I may bring a scope with me and do outreach there. 
I encourage this development
Any 8" RC is a good starting point for an all-purpose rig
Thinking that green is a crime on the Cone and Christmas Tree is a crime
Aren't you that leaves all his SHO images unbalanced?😂
They are perfectly spectrophotometrically calibrated, as all things should be
Until I individually stretch the channels.

Aaaaand that option is no longer on the table 
Oh no
Finances?
The courses I failed there, then passed at community college, wont transfer.
I have to retake them at the university specifically if I want to move on.
With that taken into account, the problems are finances and time.
They have exclusivity with their courses and also this school is notoriously bad for math classes.
Oh yikes...sorry you gotta deal with that
I'd have to retake calc 2 there which is a pretty much guaranteed F again with how awful the profs are.
Or I dont 
I just dont go back.
State law and school policy put me in this corner, not my own choices.
I failed because my allergies are god tier awful there, and my roommate left me severely sleep deprived.
I had the constant possibility of sleep paralysis looming over my head every day too.
Most of which was being driven by undiagnosed and untreated anxiety. But in general, the school forces you to live on campus for your first year so I did, and I got a very noisy roommate.
Quite literally the worst possible combination of things to have happen all at the same time.
I worked 10 to 12 hours a day on my school work and worked on it 7 days a week. I never took breaks, and I hard burned out by finals week.
Nothing I did worked, no amount of my studying yielded results, all because my brain was completely fried.
if it was truly as simple as I didn't feel like doing the work, I would have admitted that long ago, but I gave it my all and still came up short.
thats stupid
"this image is perfect because its perfectly accurate to the reallife view!!!"
obviously its better than any other process because its so realistic and accurate
read the message after
too lazy too i like starting conflicts for no reason
please post thhis in roast my image
Edgelord😂
revisited the no-ai edit
jup, i got reccommmended to try and use a veralux stretch, so i did this one in siril
and then i thought no ai might be the goto here
tho i really should get some flats going soon.. dust spots on this one are luckily out of the way of the galaxy but still no fun to deal with
@harsh matrix I am assembling my rc and for the love of god I can’t remember how I had my back focus set up
Do you at all remember?
Let alone where I had my mini pc
M81 when?
was this image taken reduced?
whats ur f ratio and appature?
Lmao
the RC is not fine with the 533
ugh
sky flats are the only way to go from here i guess
so much for a flat panel
why is it not fine
None of the dust motes calibrated out
how’s that the 533’s fault
@digital nexus how is yours going?
Il let you know once I use it
I’ve had 1 clear night since I got the thing, and I’m not willing to collimate this thing in 14F
Yeah, weather has been abysmal lately
I’ve also not gotten guiding to be reliable yet
I had one night, and I got guiding low, but I got trails. I didn’t expect Flexure to be a problem with my 71f….
Your collimation is off
is that sag?
each corner is going a different direction
Its like that at park too
Probably not
Also the drawtube is almost all the way in, the likelihood of sag is pretty low.
a oki
the loop is that bright???
would you like to be blessed by a perfect design
Clear but Windy enough to Render the rc unusable xd
Running the roki so far
bwaa
🥲
I'll Just Go and reprocess m82 to forget about me wanting to use the rc
@frosty shard HVN?
collimation limited 
it's only a little out at least
it would be quite a bit worse if it was more out
I forgot about that one
Have you seen it visually in any of your scopes?
I havent tried
I want to use my rc6 guys…. 🙁
Shooting one as well
Or atleast I tried
@harsh matrix I got my diffraction spikes back
gorgeous 
amma take them awa again :3
@frosty shard we are going to print various lengths of baffle tube extensions to eradicate any and all potential for stray light to get into the baffle tubes
i have no clue how catastrophic the damage is going to be to SNR or the image circle

You know, I was also thinking about whether there may be baffling issues on the secondary mirror holder
I don't have access to my RC now but I can try to get measurements and see if there's a discrepancy
Because my secondary mirror assembly does not look like yours
i doubt it 
huh
wdym?
At the very least I noticed that the screws are different
Pardon my rust
(Also this is going off memory, maybe I'm wrong)
wait youre totally right
the collimation screws are spaced much closer together and way closer to the center screw
that central mount is way smaller too
the way the spider vanes are secured to the holder is different too
Ever since I had the adapter issue fixed, I have not had any of the struggles with flat calibration you have
the blocks slightly extend beyond the rear part of the secondary mount with inset screws
yours uses larger allen head screws
yeah that stood out to me when I saw a picture of your RC
i never even realized.
It could just be the baffle extension that's giving you a hard time, but this is another variable to rule out
i would need to know if the shroud itself differs at all
obviously someone else here with an 8" RC could chime in, but if nobody gets around to that I'll measure mine
(I go back home on the 6th)
oh boy
WHAT is that target
OH my god i need this on my wall
Spill the tea man
Please
Thanks for quoting this so I could see the absolute banger
this has turned out to be an incredible target
shit it absolutelz is
I want to try imaging some portion of Barnard's Loop with the RC...there's gotta be something that people are missing at very small image scales
im not sure what im doing in this channel ion even have a RC
BUT#
i want to share this with yall
Looks like a RedCat image
it is 
my redcat is an absolutely bonkers scope
FINALLY
you are gonna lose your mind over the difference
I will always remember being totally blown away by my first H-alpha sub of M16
oh i alredy did
how long exposures yall do on broadband? im bortle 4.5 reduced to f/3 currently
and im so confused
At this point I'm happy to recommend mono to beginners. it's not that hard to work with and you can shoot amazing narrowband images under awful conditions
i do 3 minute broadband exposures but i was able to get away with 5 minute broadband subs in bortle 3
from my calculations about 60s exposures would be the sweetspot but that sounds bs to me
im gonna have so many issues with the processing i alredy know
i cant hardly do 3 minute lum subs at home in B8 
I do 120-300 second narrowband exposures at f/8 with my RC and IMX533. I know you're supposed to drown out read noise or whatever, but I find that I get better rejection with more short subs
so hold on to what data you do get and revisit it in 6 months as you learn how to process it better
the f/3 quattro is a efing light bucket tho
one exception: Orion Nebula at 60s narrowband in all channels
PERFECT
thats the target im doing
@frosty shard how long do you think i should make the first baffle extension i print?
i just made it 20 mm long
i think im going to cut off at 48 mm opening
reducing the baffle aperture from 60 mm to 48
what printer u got?
i have a tip in mind, from experiece
if u have a bambu printer use the textured PEI to the outer side of the baffle thats facing the sky, so its very rough
we have an Anycubic something V3 and a Creality Ender V3 that doesnt really work atm
works like a charm for me
get some textured plate
if u can
i got paint i can use if this works
i just need to test if this will work in the first place
only plate that makes actual dents and bumps, you cant replicvate that with sandpaper
not effectively
I think as long as it's wide as a full frame diagonal (43 mm) plus a bit more that should work, so 48 mm to start. But I have not ever attempted this before
you need a textured surface and paint on top of it
it has to scatter and absorb
not reflect and absorb
interesting
which i have
i have Musou and i apply it in a way which is not smooth
i can just flock it too tbh
i did that with the existing baffling and it reduced a lot of the stray light issues i had before
brought them down by like 95%

it wont be as good as the plate texturew tho
look
this is how the plate looks like
so thats how the print is gonna look
you cant replicate it
i mean
cant really do that rn
in the future i can give it a shot but not rn
alright


it doesnt need to be crazy
i can add some internal baffling type stuff later once i determine this will be enough
i need to test by eye before i test by use
im trying to make it to where you cant see into the baffle tube at all
light diffuser!!
The weird thing is that the RC does have a choke point
Or mine does
I dunno if its the same for all but mine has a choke point that goes down to 48 mm at the primary mirror retaining ring.
Technically the baffle tube aperture does not need to be as large as it is which means it is realistic to cut it down further.
The deflocking was so worth it🤤
PRETTY
Also, that's whatever the autostacking is spitting out. I'm quite excited to see how the data comes out in the end
whut neb?
Cone nebula
@frosty shard do you think theres a limit to the length the baffle tube can be as long as I taper it?
40 mm doesnt seem to be long enough. 
Honestly the answer to this is only something I'd be able to comprehend through ray tracing. But that's not out of the question since I am pretty sure the conic constants, curvature radii, and other parameters for the 8" RC have been determined on Cloudy Nights
I sort of doubt it
I feel like a lot of that would be showing up in my searches and yet ive seen nothing.
😭
I could technically extend it another 100 mm lmao
I printed one that's 40 mm long but I may print one closer to 60 mm long and create a choke down to 43 mm of aperture to further stop stray light.
Yay?
Oh they are back
You did this?
@high aspen since you have Zemax, can you try to model the GSO 8" RC for us?
the stars are sick
yes
I made a 60 mm long extension, 3 tiered knife edge baffles
43 mm aperture
meeehhhh not bad for 2 sloppy hours
is that a red star reflection neb????
Yes. Kinda... Well, it's a variable nebula
It is also a HH object
this might be super over engineered (which i hope it is)
i think i can print a cross between this and the prototype from last night and have a successful design
For 2 hours its really good
Thanks
i could potentially retain APS-C use and get perfect calibration if my design works
in theory
@frosty shard you ever looked down the inside of your RC and been able to see directly around the secondary mirror shroud from the perspective of the camera?
I wonder if that's actually what the issue is
and not necessarily that light can bypass the secondary and become visible on the inside of the baffle tubes 
Beyond the baffle at all? Nope
Interesting...
Because I can see right by mine. 
With an extended and more constricted baffle, this problem vanishes
The mirrors might need a shower sometime in the future
@frosty shard aura
Oh theyre so god darn filthy despite being cleaned in August
💀
Ooofff. Lots of polen there?
Oml yeah
Texas is pollen hell
The jetstream poops it all out on top of us
I have terrible allergies here that I do not have back home in Wisconsin
Yup
Thats why I have a nasty sinus infection rn
Mine are manageable in the DFW metroplex but really really bad at or more south than Waco
Don't let that thing dry for too long. It's gonna be a nightmare to clean the mirrors😭
Noooo not a zwo you have fallen to the red side 😔
Did you get the fast filters or like 6nm filters because those two are the only ones that will work with f/3 otherwise you will have band pass shift
I was able to print it with a super rough surface
What camera is that?
Looks like a 2600MM Air
Damn, I remembered ZWO being a bit more slick
just LRGB yet
2600MM pro
the new version
clouds are absolutely ruining it
You can see it a lil bit
Dude this print is visibly darker than the smooth one without any paint
With the paint it is practically pitch black
hell yeah
thats a really good sign, its absorbing and scattering all the light
holy shit
16 minutes
that is CRAZY
i love mono alredy
I should have painted the whole thing but tbh I just need to see if i will have issues calibrating the dust motes out or not
I painted the essential areas and filled in some pinholes left in the thin areas.
It really shouldnt
Of course but there was another component to my very specific issue which I overlooked/forgot about.
You can see right by the secondary mirror shroud with the factory baffling + extension.
My new extension makes this impossible.
Sooo... my back of the napkin theory was kinda correct 
Lol this thing ain't gonna work
Diffraction is really bad.
@frosty shard I guess there is an upper limit to how long and restrictive the baffle tube can be. 
This is the laws of physics
These stars look like they have extreme spherical aberration and you cant focus them hardly at all.
It's actually pretty freaky
It looks like Hubble with its jacked up mirror
How long is the exposure?
And what filter
Oof
channels are a bit misaligned as it seems BUT
it red
Yesss
I have yet to add the nir as Well
Just wanted to See how it Looks so far
nir is yummy
One sub is all you need 
it looks subtracted
it isnt. is a single 1400s exposure XD
ik it isn
but it looks it
whats the bandpass of ur filter?
5nm
geebers
I doubt that the redshift had any impact
Nah it does not
i think 1400/1800s are my new standard for galaxy NB
Good
I mean you see the SNR in that one single sub.
it wont
buh
I reaaaaally need to Take flats
please do
Just need to find Out how to Go about doing it
Last Time i tried it didnt Work at all
@harsh matrix My flats worked properly, but i fount another issue 
Let me know when you spot it
why did the rotation slightly change? 
IDK😭
I was wondering why i god double spikes
I highly doubt that
The whole OTA rotated
I might have an idea to why it rotated. I think the tube rings don't have a wide enough base and the flex slightly on the dovetail
Good lord my rc setup gives me so much trouble
Might go back to redcat
Can’t guide for crap
@harsh matrix I still have trouble knowing how do I balance my setup with a harmonic? I find it genuinely hard
you dont
Didn’t you say it shows as backlash if you are unbalanced and run the phd2 thing
yes
or acts like it
but you arent going to get close to balanced
all you can really do is shove the RC as far up the saddle as it will go without being unsafe
Got you
And not gonna lie my focuser is on its last life
It’s not even ment to be a astrophotography focuser
What’s the one you bought a while back
I belive focus and just overall stability of my imaging train could be the cause for my bad guiding tbh
The precision Apertura EAF Ready Rack and Pinion Linear Rail Focuser provides astrophotographers with an indispensable upgrade for six to eight inch Ritchey-Chrétien and Cassegrain telescopes, allowing for finely nuanced focusing both visually and photographically of the heavens' deepest reaches. Engineered with a dexterously calibrated rack-an...
@frosty shard remember the super scuffed light frame?
well the flats calibrated it perfectly

so the problem is the baffling
but how tf do i fix the baffling without effectively reducing the size of the primary mirror
cause that's what happened
the dark ring is way too thin
meaning that's just about how much of the primary was used
stock is too wide
or short
or both
the custom one is clipping
PA slightly off?
00°, 00', 05'' error😅
According to?
4 iterations of TPPA
hmm
Try analyzing your guide logs just to be sure
Because PA being off would explain it perfectly
(if you don't already have it)
Tune your mount
You mean phd2?
Wait a minute you have a harmonic nevrm
All good
naaaaaah
did you see how sudden the rotation is
that's not field rotation
didnt expect this much of a difference due to flats damnit
nebula
yessss, tho i am more impressed by the amount of bg-galaxies
8 after starx deletes all the really small ones but ok
bleh
D:
y use starx?
i just wanted to check if there was ifn visable and if the flats corrected properly
only ai i used in this process was a light noisex on the ha
which will also be obsolete once i get more int
gooooood
im probs gunna flock my spikes
im gonna flock everything
Why the spiders tho
i dont want big spikes
im using a quick system so its not really wanted
im probably gunna make a mirror mask with cardboard and flocking

I love the amount of BG galaxies
looks like 8" framing to me
Saame
Had to crop Out quite a few due to my fov drifting but there are still plenty
It is
@frosty shard HA
I CAUGHT IT
The problem IS because of that tiny sliver where light can slip straight past the baffling and to the camera

What im talking about btw is the Crescent shaped beam on the light stopper I have in there
I cant tell if its making it down to the camera
The unfortunate thing is that if I have to make the stopper any smaller, I will end up cutting out a part of the primary mirror again
If i make it wider, it gives this thing every chance to make it to the camera
I cant see it when I put my eye where the camera would be
I cant see around the secondary mirror at all with the camera where it should be.
@harsh matrix Texas Challenge: image this object
Maybe his scope did a meridian flip
wait I was thinking of NGC 1269. This is a boring elliptical
not boring :(
So what you're saying is you're taking on this challenge
It's at declination –02° or so
i didnt want to say anything xddd
It sits in Eridanus
Aw hell nah contrast will be diabolical and seeing will probably be 10 arcseconds
You can't even shoot the Orion Nebula where you are? Damn
Ngl I didnt read the plate 
I saw that and my first thought was "can I image that??"
The answer is yes
But it's not exactly rewarding
No i can but ngc 1269 is a lot lower than orion
Oh well the license plate challenge is NGC 1289
Farther north
Right yeah i can do that easy
kinda ugly
guys im sorry for using this channel even tho i dont have an RC
but i need help and ur all really skilled here
for some reason, pixinsight wont display the RGBK values
im in readout mode but it wont display anything
and i kinda need it for hdr
does anyone have any idea what could be happening??
You need to use the process called ConvertToRGB
It's still in the gray readout.
alredy got past that and finished the image, anything i should fix or improve?
The core is weird
it is, and i dont know if i can get it back into its original state
I think the whole thing is over blurx'd
or too much photoshop unsharp mask
im gonna mask the core
and hdr it
once again
Took a second try at M1 recently
Do you think this is about what 6" can resolve, or should I be able to do better?
You can do a lot better
@harsh matrix I tracked down my flats issue
Now they corrected perfectly
I forgot to wrap the mirror heater💀
bruh
i wish it was that simple in my case
I guess that's where newtonians shine. They are super simple
I guess that's where newtonians shine. They are super simple
copy cat thats what i was gonna do
Well does it work
Perfect
a lot of ppl do that

thomas edison
I guess that's where newtonians shine. They are super simple
Secondary mirror... Optional 🤣
No coma or no chromatic aberration. Pick one you can't have two 
i wanna get an rc for that lack of ca 
Pick a frac and you will have the best of both worlds. 
Coma and Chromatic Aberration!
Love your stars but the dark nebula close to the trapezium looks a little weird
Sadly does, beyond fixable now though
I mean its my first mono proces, so i will certainly learn from that mistake
Could you share the data? 
i could if you want
and if you show me the final result
this is my final btw
Of course
Zoom is disabled :{
give me like 10 mins, i will send you the google drive link
@harsh matrix When you say slide it up as much as possible without being unsafe should it always touch both clamps? Can it do fine on one?
i wouldnt chance just one personally
i like to keep at least half of the rear clamp on the dovetail
@blissful marlin data in your dms
not really
you can do whatever you want with them
Ok cool
And just wondering but how come when I calibrate at the Meridian and then go to my target it guides worse than just when I calibrate at my target
technically calibrating at the meridian is supposed to divide your pulses into 2 separate movements because in any other point in the sky, the movement of one axis is somewhat bound to the other
the degree to which the movement of one axis affects the other depends on how close to the celestial pole you are
so calibrating at your target can help specifically at that declination but because of the degree to which that axial movement is bound to the other axis, you will be unable to accurately guide in any other point of the sky
calibrating at the meridian solves the axial movement issue at any other point in the sky, but can result in worse performance in cases where the scope is not well balanced if i had to guess
also it isnt necessarily guiding at the meridian
it's guiding at the celestial equator
that's where the movement of the RA and the dec are not bound to one another
Wow man thanks for the explanation
So it’s the equator that is best
Let’s say I’m going m51 and I move to guide at the celestial equator. Calibrate there then go back. I should get great results?
yes
Because I had my telescope pull a 180 from m51 to stright behind and I thought that made no sense
Also as far as how much weight it needs, how can I tell if it needs to be slid down the counterweight shaft or up it pretty much acts the same either way
I dunno
You can only know if you do some math
I dont know
but that applies only if your guide camera sensor is perpendicular to your RA axis no?
No
Focuser broken guys 💔
@harsh matrix hows the one you bought
I think im gonna buy it rn
as mine just broke
It has been excellent
It could have some sag, dont really know right now.
The tests ive done suggest it doesnt have sag though.
good to hear
and has your imaging quality, tracking, auto focus results. has any of those improved?
im considering buying an rc for pne and galaxies
Yes
how so for guiding? because I think that the flex,wobble, and slowly unfocusing is a contributor to my meh guiding
Do I need an accesories when I buy an rc, assuming its already flocked and I have an oag
well for me with a asi585mm pro i needed a reducer with my rc6
so get that?
well whats your setup
cause im gonna use a uranus-m pro with it, I have a ragdoll 17, and gonna get oag guiding
.
or current plan
I dunno
well I mean could it contribute?
mine?
yeah
what I said above
or if you mean what rc
I was thinking this onehttps://www.highpointscientific.com/ioptron-8-photron-rc-telescope-ota-6112
Capture the universe with precision using the iOptron 8" Photron RC Ritchey-Chrétien Telescope OTA. Designed with true Ritchey-Chrétien optics, it delivers sharp, coma-free images that are perfect for deep-sky astrophotography. The 8-inch aperture gathers ample light to reveal faint galaxies, nebulae, and star clusters with stunning detail. Bu...
lol
Not really, no
mono? or osc
With a rc8 and 585 i wouldn't recommend it, thats super zoomed in even with a reducer
oh ok
the fl with the reducer was my fov untracked
bigger tbh
oh with a .67 one then my fov untracked was way smaller
means it reduced by .33
or why not a redcat
if I do widefeild, Im gonna get a sharpstar 130
those are sick
heard they are a pain but great results
is f/2.8 so will most likely need recollimated often
and needs special filters due to bandshift
yea, thats the only problem
but i mean if you go osc to start thats not a horrible idea
i love the sharpstars though
@frosty shard I just went to a star, ready to collimate my RC, did repeated checks for both on axis and off axis astigmatism, and on axis coma, and nothing is weird.
It looks perfect.

It shouldn't be collimated anymore
Not even close.
Ive taken both mirror cells out repeatedly
The stars really dont look all that impressive but it's correct by all accounts.

I think the majority of what I see is tilt atp
I dont really care to take care of it atm since it looks incredibly minor

