#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 26 of 1
was drunk

was 2 years ago too
are you from a baltic country or east european?
uk
What FL did you use it at
Around 1087 mm
You're going to want to make sure you have a darks library set up for it
And dont expect to ever be guiding on more than one star if you are lucky
I used my 120 MM Mini at 95 gain with a darks library and tried to avoid guiding faster than 1.5s subs for the best chance of getting a guide star.
Ngl wouldn't buy that for $100
When you can save that money for something slightly more expensive and much better
I already said I would so I’m not going to back out now.
If I upgrade to another guide cam, il use this one for my guide scope on my Askar 71f.
im nervous af rn
we are stacking some M81/M82 lum from the quatt
w/ flats
I was right to be nervous
every square inch of the quattro is flocked
how does this remain possible
😭
looks good enough
naaaaah
this is 16.5 minutes
if i stacked hours and hours of this
it would be a complete nightmare
don’t know til u try
because it's not an RC 
nah
my RC is having issues too

Beyond the reducer?
@digital nexus so far super happy with the 60mm guide scope upgrade
nice. I’m testing my 50mm guide scope tomorrow
Depending how it goes, il try the OAG I’m getting
Big chnaces are you gonna need some weight at the front of the OTA
They are pretty back heavy, dec balancing
I don’t bother to balance
Oh, nvm, i forgot you have harmon8c
il move it far up the bar to try and have it close to balance but it’ll be fine
Like I know this was not balanced at all
Long ass dovetail
If anything you want to push that up to avoid a tripod collision
yea
That was just to put it on quickly, I never planned on imaging with it that low
Good
Damn, I am getting my best guiding ever
@tight lodge
This is how it is rn
I put in a 2" eyepiece and I see a Hotspot reflection
It moves to the opposite side of wherever my eye goes.
Actually the eyepiece revealed something eerily similar to what im seeing in the flats
If i pull my head back, away from the eyepiece, I see a similar series of concentric rings
One or 2 of those rings is a reflection of the glowing tube interior above.
It looks identical to that top right photo
The result is an unevenly illuminated eyepiece

Uhhhh
Its the entire baffle tube thats glowing

@frosty shard this seems to be the issue
Actually that may be correctable
The reflection at the tip of the drawtube that I can see definitely wont correct 💀
That needs to be addressed beyond a doubt.
@tight lodge this drawtube is extremely reflective. Blindingly so. @frosty shard you should know this too since you have this focuser. You should probably flock the inside of it.
That thing in there shining like the sun is the inside of the drawtube of the focuser
How does this keep happening...
like honestly
you would think attentuating reflections like this would be the #1 priority
Guess not
Anyway i painted the mirror retaining ring
The inside of it
Dude! I'm getting the same artifact somehow 
Someone found out this when processing my images
It's 90% likely to be the coma corrector
The paint is not completely dry and its already much darker
I'm gonna experiment a bit this weekend and try to figure out what causes it
That's much better
Same here
Its not apples to apples with the test i did while in my room but its close enough that I would see something had I not painted it.
Its on this end where it really matters too
Not really just the secondary mirror
The thing is, I haven't taken flats yet with the new flat pannel position. Now is a bit further from the secondary mirror
It wont matter much if the light pollution is bad enough
I had a dew shield on my quattro all night last night
I took flats with the shield in the exact same position and they still failed.
Probably it matter when the light from the flat pannel doesn't enter the focuser drawtube directly
Kinda look like those internal reflections from Digitized Sky survey
When I take Flats in NB, I keep getting these artifacts
You can see there's one right over NGC206, and another one between the core and M32
Yikes
The thing is, they appear only if I take Flats with a narrowband filter.
That's why I don't take Flats for NB
In broadband they get corrected
Very 
If these parts i painted remain reflective, im going to flock them
I want to paint the drawtube but I think flocking is a better idea
Main concern is the paint flaking
Same
This stuff does flake
But the farther up in the optical train i put it, the less of an opportunity it has to impact my imaging
Thats why I put it up near the baffle tube vs all the way down the drawtube.
If you apply it right it doesnt flake and come off on its own
You tell me
Are we collimated or not

I brought the reflections into focus by accident
Lmao
I got a photo of the light diode
In my desk lamp

pretty!
About as good as hubble after it's launch
Um guys @tight lodge @frosty shard , it could actually be impossible to get a perfectly flat field with a reducer on the RC, specifically with the 571
It would be fine with the 533
the reason being that the edges of the 571 will receive light from the primary mirror not once, but twice.
or more specifically, near the edges
because the light cone is probably being cut off thanks to the M42 back on the Apex, it's possible that there's hard light fall off there, and then the sudden bright ridge I was observing is from the primary, and after that is the light from the secondary
it's a complete mess
buh
Hear me out. CCD with bug fat pixels and you shoot at native fl
true
except not a CCD
they will stink in my light pollution
i can just bin
Hardware binning is better
true
Complementary Metal-Oxide Bricks? 😂
yup
It’s in the player one Apollo camera
Apollo-M Max I believe
apllenamingchene
We can also use charge-domain binning sensors. It give a fair pixel size at the end
I got the biggest pixel here
Like this one :
https://www.highpointscientific.com/qhy530m-pro-ii-mono-scientific-camera-with-imx530-sensor
But not for every budget
Incredibly detailed planetary images can be captured by the QHY QHY530M Pro II Scientific Mono Stellar Camera. The camera's high-sensitivity monochrome sensor and lightning-fast Camera Link interface make it appropriate for capturing the moon, sun, and planets at high frame rates with pinpoint accuracy. Its high-quality scientific build ensu...
"Unlike Most CMOS cameras, the QHY5III568M/C camera supports charge-domain binning (FD Binning)"
Or this one :
https://www.qhyccd.com/scientific-camera-qhy811pro/
QHY811 Pro, equipped with an IMX811 sensor, is a scientific CMOS camera with a 245-megapixel (64.84 mm diagonal) sensor, 2.81 μm pixel size, medium Scientific Camera QHY811 Pro, the 245 Megapixels, medium format, SONY IMX811 CMOS sensor, back-illuminated,16bit ADC.
They are the few possibilities to use only one sensor with RC in deep space and planetary
The last one is more overkill than something else 😂
This is a sign that none of us can afford it
Do you have a soul ?
Nope. I sold it to Satan
Do I even try tonight
Go to sell your kidneys so 😂
I don't think they are usable anymore
Damn, so, not for you I guess
Star-test it!
but it’s gonna be cold
5f at the lowest
I really don’t know how I feel about using small hex keys to try and collimate in 5F
Hold on
at least so you know where you stand
Do I need to have anything setup to collimate it?
Can I just have it sit on my star tracker?
I don’t need tracking right?
I mean, tracking would help honestly
Just point it at Polaris or something
Polaris won’t move much
I don’t have anything setup for this
I don’t even know what il need for focus
I guess id be able to setup
I don’t have guiding ready though…. I guess that would be fine?
maybe try daytime on something far away to get rough idea of the focus
yeah, tracking is good
If I get home soon enough
so no guiding would be fine
I was planning on testing the 50mm tonight but this weather is too poor
can’t wait to try and collimate with small hex keys in freezing weather
Love it
Great suggestion 
Well, gotta be done at some point, and its not getting any warmer lol
Actually I live in Pennsylvania and Pennsylvania is bipolar and the weather will rapidly and randomly change
It could be 40F next week and u wouldn’t be suprised
we are close, NJ
If I didn't move from NY during pandemic, there would have been no astro for me 🙂
Y
NYC sky is ROUGH
Ouch
yeah, its no Poconos
smol
@harsh matrix I found out that my backfocus is 56mm instead of 55🤣
because filter?
Yep. All this time I had the correct 56mm backfocus thinking that i have 55
Lol
Camera is attached @tall summit @harsh matrix @frosty shard
Now the question is… will it reach focus
Why’s it so long
its can draw out 4"
not bad
Noo not the red cam
Booo red cam we don't like red cam
yea yea
if anyone turned down the used deal i got, they need to reevaluate themselves in an asylum
Ohh you got it used
Then that changes things
$450 for a 533mc, with filter drawer and L-Enhance
like come on
thats a steal
Nice
Tell me it's quality once you get a picture
All the reviews I’ve seen say it’s good
it's quality once you get a picture
So the filter improves its own quality every time you take an image with it?
you should take a video and get the best filter on the planet
Tell me the quality of the filter once you use the filter and capture an image with it
the quality of the filter once you use the filter and capture an image with it
Pray, speak of the filter's virtue, when thine eye hath employ 'd it and caught the image.
Doesnt get any better than that
Have you had the opportunity to collimate it yet?
no
I was going to do it last night but it was 7F so I decided that wasn’t a good idea
think your hands thanked you for that decision
like how fast did it drift out of view?
I did it with my f/5 6” dob
Focusing sucked cause it’s a crappy helical focuser
f/5 was like 750mm FL, right?
yea
Can I collimate it with a Collimation cap?
Just to get a rough Collimation
rough yes, just make everything center and symentrical as far as you can
Are there any knobs I can buy to make it easier so I don’t need to use small ass hex keys?
yeah,, Bob's Knobs its called
For primary mirror too?
No, I dont think so, at least I am not aware of the set
if you dont use reducer backfocus doesnt apply to you
the focuser was out like 3.25 inches
I’m guessing it’ll get smaller once I add the OAG
no extension rings, right?
I had 2 and a filter drawer
for rough collimation? yes
yea rough so it’s not completed fu cked when I go outside
Muon
yup
Here is where my focus is roughly from ota, without reducer I remember needing another 2" ext ring
I’m talking about from the actual focuser
It had to go to 6
I added 1 more extension than is in this pic
wait how much backspace is necessary?
¯_(ツ)_/¯
our focusers are different, but we should be roughly same distance between Ota and Cam
this doesnt look right
I guess it's fine as long as it reaches focus but I'm thinking about tilt
I can add another m70 extension thing
do you have 2 parabolic mirrors
(when perfectly spaced the light will be parallel)
What
you could kinda use this as an eyepeice
miror ony eyepeice would be cool
@frosty shard i broked it 😭
infinite fl
Bro I have the same PFP on my account lmao
what
Though taken by me ofc (sorry for the off topic, found it real cool)
but your profile picture is the heart nebula
Google profile, but we still got the same object as our PFP, just a different app :)
I forgot to put cone neb in here
I 2x drizzled it after processing this and it looked great
I think I will 2x drizzle a bit more with this camera
holy sharpness
@frosty shard I flocked the focuser and drawtube
You quite literally cant see it anymore

You cant see the drawtube from the camera side either.
I know it shouldnt be necessary but I dont want to take any chances, I am going to flock the inside of the baffle tubes too.
We are going all out.
how are you flocking it
I got a bunch of sheets of flocking material off of Amazon and im cutting them to size and carefully attaching them to their intended spots
Flocking complete 
I used my skills from getting an A in Geometry to get near exact measurments
I threw in extra material everywhere because I dont want to understood since fixing that is harder than leaving in a little extra
Honestly if this doesnt fix my issues, theres something seriously wrong 
floofy nebler
1 after and 2 before, @frosty shard this is definitely worth while doing
That looks like the contents of my soul after grad school
lum flat v Ha flat after flocking the ever living hell out of everything
okay that's a pretty big difference tbh, before and after
WAIT
THIS IS WHAT WAS SHOWING UP IN MY LIGHTS
I subtracted the new flat from the old
it left all of the extra light
this is the nasty crap that was ending up in my final images
weird how flats look like a bumb map
yeah ik
i dont know why that is still
i thought all the ringing would be gone but nope
I got one of these for my Samy as well
i should probably sell my roki and buy a canon EF mount roki instead
that way i can get one of those adapters
i cant install one of those on my current roki
do it
which one do you have?
i lost the spring for the aperture actuator 
Micro 4/3 mount
somebody online 3D prints adapters
mine is 100% manual. aint got nothing but mechanical parts inside
maybe i should just buy his
mine is too
ahhh, the 30$ Etsy adapter
almost bought that one by accident
WTF!

i payed 40$ for the CNC Machined one
exactly
btw here's the lum from the last night i used the scope with the new flats
all that's leftover is that extra light from reflections
it looks identical to that subtracted image above

i think this could work

what have i done 
oh, you just reminded me that i have to trouvleshoot my flats as well
blakhol
What's your ADU level that you go for your flats?
@harsh matrix any idea why the SII,Ha and R have such an aggressive vignetting?
@harsh matrix did flats do more harm than good? XD
woaw
geem ir stars
probably gonna get this filter
to do triband ir 
How are you gonna prevent the filters fro overlapping in the long wavelengths?
ill have to account for that + my cams qe dropoff
ive done it successfully with my orion image
and with stars
stars are the easiest tho xD
I have solution for you. SLOAN i', z'-s', y'
money :(
ill upgrade to them later
blue is ir
@frosty shard what do u think of this slightly weird m82?
geemicus
green
green is always welcome
Baller. Is that HaIRG
Worse actually xD
Its IrHaR with some curves to make the Image less Red Overall because the ir dominated quite a bit
Chat, can you relate? 🫵🏻🤓
My guitar is a @schecterguitarsofficial C-1 SLS Hollywood.
The audio is the @shanemgillis SNL monologue about Greenland.
#metalmemes #guitarmemes #memes
799
OAG acquired
Welcome to the gang
Started setting up and shooting a few days ago-all my stars were triagngular/pyramid shape. Freaked me out, thought it got bumped or something. Turns out I just didnt give it enough time to cool down:)
So happy i have a carbon version of this thing, with quartz mirror. I can see this being a big issue and people needing eaf
very cool
Today I’m unboxing the StellaLyra RC6 Ritchey-Chrétien telescope, giving it a quick collimation, and taking it out for first light under my Bortle 6/7 skies. If you’re thinking about getting the RC6 or just curious about how the setup process looks, I hope this walkthrough helps.
I go over:
What’s included in the box
Collimating the se...
new astrolavista vido!!!!
its 4.5 kg w-out any addons
Oh wow
I had no idea he had any interest in the RC's
neither 
im so proud of him
That happens to me a lot too
I hit him with the copypasta

I cannot understand for the life of me why they still include that focuser on brand new RC's
Didn't you like the newer ones?
It's not the one I like, it's the one that came with my RC8 that you had.

They still put THAT ONE on new RC's. 💀
Didn't you get a different one with your 6" RC or something
Or are you saying the newt focusers are the good ones
Yeah it came with a different one
It was a revamped version of what came on my RC8
So what is this random assortment or something
Spin the wheel to see if you get shit or not shit focuser
Or is it just the RC6 that get good focusers
Or just carbonstars
It looks like it is just carbonstars that get the good ones
As an aside my frac has a focuser again, and it's not GSO lol
Literally just the carbonstars
Looks like a jank feather touch

@digital nexus his suggestion about how to collimate is what I did with my RC6 and 8 before I decoupled the 8
The procedure isn't that straightforward though
I use Nina auto exposure
It picks around 32k/being 50% histogram
It aims for a 10% total delta around that 32k ADU figure
Well all of your filters have vignetting.
I think the reason it looks much worse on the narrowband filters is because they let in fsr less light than the broadband filters and so the center collects much more light than the corners and the STF makes it look much worse than it is.
I smell skill issue

So just collimate the secondary first?
I got no idea what the Collimation state of my rc6 is, since it was shipped and the previous owner. Not to mention I tightened the Collimation screw so it’s probably all messed up
Pretty much ONLY
what about that DSI method
He said absolutely do not use a Cheshire
I don’t have a Cheshire
I don’t have a laser 😭
I have a Collimation cap
DEFINITELY not then.
bruh
I thought I could for a rough Collimation
Before going outside for star test
Sure you can
But absolutely not for final adjustments or even for decent collimation
Since I messed up the Collimation the previous owner had, I’d like to just check first
You have to make final adjustments on a star in all cases or you will have suboptimal collimation.
It’s like 7F constantly now, so I’m not too keen on collimating rn
I need an Alan wrench screw driver or something so I don’t need to use those little metal things
Yes Allen wrenches help a lot
Should I buy those Bob’s knobs
No
They don't hold collimation very well on these RC's, supposedly.
What I can tell you is mine holds with the stock screws even with me banging the scope around by accident and stuff.
Hell
I just took it apart completely, 3 times, and it still held collimation.
I wouldnt surrender this crazy level of stability over ease of use since I don't have to collimate every day or week.
Btw for the secondary and more or less in general, a metric Allen key multi tool is really nice.
Plus the bulkier size makes it way easier to hold onto when collimating.
It virtually erases the possibility of you dropping it into the tube so long as you have steady hands and a good grip.
yea il end up dropping one of those and hit the mirror
Btw the DSI method is what makes people complain about how hard RC's are to collimate.
It's that fiddling with the primary and secondary mirror action just to realize that the reason they cant get precise alignment of their laser or Cheshire with the spot on the secondary is because the primary mirror and focuser are fixed to one another. 
I thought you liked the DSI method
bruh
I do star collimation exclusively.
Doesn’t the DSI method use a star
So you just collimate like a newt?
?
The DSI method is star collimation pretty much
This conversation is very confusing
No im sorry
thats what I thought
If you do DSI while being unaware of your coupled primary then yes you'll be very confused
I used the Google ai summary to find out what it was
....
How does it change, mine is coupled
💀
You have very little control over your primary and tilt
How badly did I mess up tightening the Collimation screw to hold the mirror in place
I just wouldn't bother a whole lot with them and just get the secondary to do the best you can
There's 2 versions of it, that's why im confused. 
There's a cheshire/laser method and a star method. It's the cheshire/laser method you want to avoid like the plague.
Cheshires work fine especially if you're severely out of collimation
If you're severely out of collimation it's pretty much the only way you'll get back
Check with a cap ig
Thanks
I can check that indoors, lemme Do that rq
Cause I couldn't get it to work on my dumb phone
I’m on my phone 
My only issue with cheshires is they aren't very accurate at least to the precision required by RCs
But they are useful especially in that situation when you bork the collimation completely
Or you have cleaned the mirrors and put them back and now everything is whack
I do think lasers are pretty silly though
Very low on information content there
Well mine is special. 
It hates cooperating.
All the laser can really help you with is making sure the secondary is vaguely pointed at the focuser
This is one good reason why cheshires/lasers are not great for precise collimation.
I essentially did the procedure with an OCAL once and that went over poorly. 
My primary was so far off that the star looked like a circle with a giant notch in it.
Huh?
Collimation telescopes are completely irrelevant here
Not that part specifically
The part about the dot not being the optical center is the point
That's true but it's pretty close in that the field won't be completely whack
Lol
As for cheshires it's irrelevant cause you're not using that mark anyways
Mine was completely wack
Idk what you're doing with an ocal
I was essentially collimating it like a newt
Trying to get a bunch of concentric rings
But a Cheshire is the only way besides basically a random walk to fix complete misalignment
This was back when I still had the 6 though
I wanted to see if I could find a collimation method to use during the day time.
That's the last time I ever attempted such a thing. 
Yeah you don't use a Cheshire to get to a state of precise alignment
Its just a saving grace
Yeah... Nah

To make an analogy, a laser is a compass, a Cheshire a polar scope, and star alignment phd2 drift align
Or maybe cheshires are a bit more like tppa
@harsh matrix @runic violet
Best I can do on my phone
The circle is up to the right
Looks fine, now point it at stars
in a few months once the weather stops playing
I can see a bit of reflection on the bottom left
Unless you get yourself an artificial star
Like silver
I can make one but I’ve heard those aren’t great
Isn’t it just like paper and a little flashlight
Artificial stars are fine you just need one below your diffraction limit
and how can I do that
A proper one is from a precise pinhole that's like tens or hundreds of microns in size
I messed with the secondary, got the circle pretty close to the middle
@harsh matrix Does your RC look like this too?
No
Face the sun
It looks like styrofoam from shipping
Imo
Normally the particles are not that small though 
This is mine
From a couple of months ago but I keep my stuff in good shape, so it's the same now as then.
I should get some swag shots of my RC 
i have two* cameras
one (well, two) to take photos with my telescopes
and another to take photos of the telescopes
I keep it flat on the dovetail if it is ever not on the mount.
On the losmandy though
so not vertical like I have it
I don’t have a losmandy on mine. I’m guessing it’s not as much of a concern on the 6 though
Btw brainandforce is the one that likes DSI method
I technically use it but I didnt know thats what it was called and I definitely dont follow any guides

Well now you have the guide
Bob's Knobs also do not give you sufficient precision when collimating an RC, that's the other big issue
Oh thats very true
You're way better off with an Allen key
I forgot I can't make fine adjustments on my quattro
Every time I turn the Bob's knobs on my quatt, it makes huge adjustments since the force required to overcome the pressure of the other 2 screws will throw the tilt way off.
@tight lodge no cone neb tonight 😭
The moon is practically on top of it and my filters are NOT that good.
Man
That makes me sad
I was looking forward to shooting it again. 
My OAG is much more evenly illuminated 
wait
guys
we may have salvaged it
i dunno what this thing is
probably the dew heater or something
i have a dew heater and dew shield on because it's extremely wet outside for no particular reason 
But idk if you noticed, but those that have the darker vignetting are the R, Ha and SII Filters. The OIII, B and green are totally fine
ooooo, dirty optics 
@tight lodge the yellow is due to 850nm
but the red channel is linked to 685 nm
fixed
Dont make me want to Switch my lum Filter for the 742nm again
run continuum subtraction on 685 using 850 as reference
i forgor to align them

now channel combine it with the 850
nah
amma subtract visible from it too
muehehehhehehe
Do you have luminance
Hmmmm
Ok, pixelmath the 850 with R and 685 with G
Because you're working with multiple channels😅
why not map them to gold and lime
:(
Because using pixelmath to add data to certain areas of the red channel makes them glow stronger
how i do then
i feel im doing it wrong
something like
R + .75 * NIR850
G + .60 * NIR685
do i put that in the g and b box or the paramaters?
yes, but you have to change the NIR850 and NIR685 to whatever you named yours as
done but when i click apply it doesnt do anything
i was looking at the wrong window 😭
uhh
now i have alignment issues
how do i align the channels 😭
This clip might end up in a music video btw
Astrobackyard type B-roll? 😂
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rI4PE95KIGU
This song is getting a music video with user submitted clips and photos
hypeddit.com/skybreak/attention I JUST WANT UR ATTENTION
The first non-album single of HALF BLOOD ERA.
Here's a story - recently my phone died while I was on tour (in 2025?? terrifying, I know!) and I went to a coffee shop, gave it to the woman behind the counter and just had to wait until it charged to 40%. For the first time in ages - I was ...
attention
YUMMY
the RC8 still actively has issues despite the painstaking work ive put in
turns out the focuser was playing a major role
it's not entirely fixed despite everything ive tried
I think my little internal baffle is hindering more than helping by sending that light back to the camera
instead of scattering
Do you experience it in narrowband as well?
I wont, no
Its because I dont have enough light in narrowband to have the problem
However im not content with shooting narrowband until forever
I hate that entire idea.
I got this scope for galaxies, not for shooting narrowband nebula ONLY.
Also the problems with the quattro are coming from the CC
There's not a single reflective surface visible to the secondary mirror and yet I still have a double reflection in my light frames and flat frames
It's not hardly visible at all in narrowband, but still sort of there.
Hear me out. Get a 2" AR window and thread it in front of the reducer
.
On my RC?
Isn't it the one with the reducer reflections?
I dont know anymore
I found the reflections to be from the RC itself
Not the reducer afaik
Im not going to test the reducer until all of my problems at native are fixed.
Because without eliminating all other factors, ill be unable to determine if the reducer is at fault or if the scope is at fault if I dont first address the issues with the scope.
The quattro is a different story
The OTA is very well controlled but the CC has internal reflections galore.
Im not sure how much an AR window is going to to when the problem has to do with the construction of the reducer to begin with.
The inside of it is somewhat reflective, specifically a ring that's almost halfway down the tube.
I think it is holding a lens element there and the edge of that is extremely reflective.
So your Quattro has a similar issue to mine?
All my flats have a center bright spot that usually overcorrects in images
Yes and no
It is much brighter in the center but it's got an intense ridge at the bottom, and it's less intense at the top.
o:
its the lil cutie
Would this be a good fit for an AM5N..?
nope
a standard AM5 could barely handle a truss RC10
I could get an RC10 
fully load it and put it on my EQ6R Pro
I have the ragdoll 17 pro
that mount is an absolute beast
Il put an RC30 on it
yeah nah i wouldnt go that heavy on a harmonic
What’s the largest commercial available RC
That’s like, not extremely extremely pricy
Like under $10k id say

wtf
Ah btw, I don't remember if you already saw this 
whaat
that with a 6" rc on???
i didnt see it
🔥
how much extra weight capacity you got?
Overmounting my beloved
may as well put the asskar on it too and image with both 😭
like genuniely
im ginna be undermounting >:3
I could put my Askar on the top dovetail of my RC6 but will they be imaging the same spot in the sky??
yea
widefield + smol field
would be cool
I like the sound, now this is max speed, but I was surprised by how silent it is on the lower speeds
My old mount sounded like a 747 taking off regardless of speed 😭
Harmonics sound like space ships
ouch
thanks for drilling a hole in my skull
@frosty shard if this doesnt work, I dont know how my flats could possibly still fail. 💀
Its so dark inside the tube that all you can see is camera noise 
There ain't a single spec of light that doesn't belong
I will crash out hard if there's still a problem.

The fact that I can see the reflection of your hand in the baffle makes me nervous 
Same
And I have no way of knowing if this is causing a problem or not
Im tempted to flock that too
That might actually be causing the embossed circle
Make it a blackhole
The remainder of it i mean
btw @tight lodge the little baffle for the drawtube i made in fusion in like 5 minutes

that could have taken 30+ in blender
The power of Fusion360
also thinking about flocking the outside of the secondary dew shield
the only reason i dont want to do that is simple though

dafuq
it might be the baffle tubes
What the? 
Sir... you really need a secondary mirror heater
Ye fr
Im rage quiting atm
Im dang near certain the reflections that remain are from the short bit of the drawtube that I've yet to flock because I left it blank to use the reducer.
So I just painted the front of the reducer and im going to give that a shot, jump the gun per se.
womp womp
record a video of yourself collimating so i got a tutorial
It won't be applicable to you
their rc is just better 
amma recouple it >:3
I still don’t understand how that changes collimating. Don’t I still need to move the primary regardless
You dont need to move it no
Not all the time
When the primary is coupled to the focuser, you basically never want to move it.
but I did move it 💀
It changed it for me because it gives me the ability to cancel out all off axis astigmatism as well as on axis coma in one fell swoop.

Yes you did.
Which means your tilt is fixed too.
Or my tilt is worse
Either way
I tightened one Collimation screw to stop the mirror from bouncing
I dont exactly have a way to record myself doing it.
Finally feels good to not be the only one with a seemingly normal telescope that ain't normal anymore 
@harsh matrix Will you ever try Hubble's deep field image?
North target
Probably
Im just not sure of the information I need to find the data though
I might try it sometime in March
Until then I will try most of the winter targets
Well... few of them atleast 
I think im about at the finale of this charade
Ive got 2 alternating baffles inside of the scope now that should snuff out all extra light that comes through the focuser.
Neither of them are even slightly reflective and the tube behind the primary mirror is one big black hole.
There doesnt appear to be any anomalies in my flats so far except for my OAG prism 💀
I had to reposition it and I made an oopsie in the process 
@frosty shard hail, the reducer is finally dead
cant make it work here
works great in dark skies but it refuses to work at home
i will shoot native from here on unless there's another reducer/flattener on the market that's not poorly made.
god
this could be focuser sag
i hope not
Damn, I really did avoid a ton of problems by shooting native this whole time
Which, to be fair, was the intention
you really did
though it could be the focuser
that could have been the cause of all of this
i might finally do the thing and get a starlight express feathertouch
it would certainly explain why ive had much worse looking problems calibrate out perfectly with the 533 but not the 571
this is by far the best correction ive had in lum with this scope
unfortunately the dust motes remain
im going to take sky flats to see if that changes or not
if it does, it means putting the flat panel on the dew shield to take flats wont work
it means the dew shield is being problematic too
Damn!
I only get that in the flats, but the IR subs are quite clear
oh dont worry, its there in the subs too
Uncalibrated stack vs the IR flats💀
i dont know why your flats look like that
ah
this is what im seeing
but i dont see the upper right extension because the 585 is so much farther cropped in
ughhhhhhh
i never did fix that problem then
okay thats obvious
if i did i wouldnt be having this issue at all 
Someone did mention something that was quite big brain
about what?
Oh... the flat pannel being centered more towards the blue light.
So flats in G,B and OIII turn out normal but in R, Hα, SII and NIR they get borked
But... that shouldn't matter since the camera will adjust the exposure to match the target ADU
correct
yeah idk what the spectrum has to do with it
i think focus on the reflection shifting significantly is the only thing that could possibly cause this
even then i dont know why the properties of it change or what exactly drives the difference between the flats and the lights

frizbee?
hey people
if I use barlow before the camera, do I double my OTA FL in asiair settings (for plate solving)?
Not too Sure bc ive never used one but id say so
was trying to do jupiter with barlow for the first time, couldnt make it work
wonder if there is any practical FL length above which asiair wouldnt solve?
ah, according to chatgpt there is
yes
ew
Do you guys use EAF?
I guess all mono people are?
I am considering getting one, ZWO EAF 2025 ( I am on asiair), had a couple of questions
- Does it really take all the guesswork/bahtinov masks out of the process, or you still have to touch it up?
- Can I still use the other knob for manual adjustment, or do I have to use EAF for everything?
am using a zwo eaf with my stellavita.. The focus it gets is very good lets say about 9/10 times. Sometimes when its struggeling to find stars getting in focus fails but most times it just works, as for the knobs, i am not able to manuallyadjust them, as the eaf kind of locks the focus. i have a bolt i can unscrew to be able to change the focussers position manually but other than that its pretty much stuck in the position its at
The ZWO EAF is a good decision weather you have an ASIAIR or MiniPC.
iirc the newer versions come with a remote tho.. u can use that to change its position then
good info, thanks
It does not. Nina will measure that star HFR and create a curve then aim for the lowest value
No. You will have to use the EAF all the time to change focus
QHY has an EAF that can be switched to manual mode that uses a knob to adjust. Buuut incompatible with the ASIAIR
f5 mak cass
Just get the Gemini EAF
It does, although separate purchase. They also have a Pro vesion, has in a nd out buttons on the body
But + 100$ to the price
got it
I am on asiair mini for the time being
Order placed!
@frosty shard i gave the auto optomiser access to every function
using reflections off the back of the glass to form an image inside the lens 
is it light leaks?
From what?
You should make sure it’s not light leaks
I know for a fact it isnt
Trust me
Ive been through this too many times.
just curious, what does the back of the rc look like
A solid, flat piece of aluminum with no gaps
Nowhere for light to get in
you probably alredy tried this, but shine a light all around the scope to see if there are any leaks or where the stray light is coming from
Ive already done this and thats why I already know the leaks are gone
Also
That reflection you think is a light leak was because the flat panel couldn't sit flush on top of the dew shield
Later flats and light frames did not have that issue present.
This being the most recent example
If there was a leak, it would have DEFINITELY manifested here.
This is an hour of data and its the best calibration ive ever had with this scope. And I used sky flats, which REALLY dont work when theres a leak present.
anyone got a model for an adapter from RC focuser to a traditional newtonian plate with the 4 screws doesnt have to be a specific size just to any plate
Nope
Maybe the flat pannel is too bright?
Brightness has made no difference
I got my first set of perfectly calibrated data last night
the sky flats calibration still could have been slightly better so i took new bias frames at the right temperature and it's perfect
that above is DBE'd but the point is that nothing unfixable remains.
ive yet to test any data from tonight
im nervous but ive got high hopes
also my SNR is noticeably better especially in lum
@frosty shard I've seen the light, there's no going back 
that's 1 hour and 57 minutes of data from my backyard, with a 50% moon, at the native focal length
i severely overstretched the data and i dont care
interesting...
flat panel flats still dont work 100%
but sky flats work about 99.5%
this is working like 80%
@tight lodge as predicted, the double reflection does not appear in narrowband data from the quatt
and good pick btw
i love this thing

this camera is a banger too
The Quattro with the 585 is too OP
this combo feels fantastic
Now imagine an APS-C sensor with 2.9μm pixels and the QE of the 585
Fr
I need one
This camera might make me like narrowband more.
@harsh matrix Imagine if it would have actually worked
Join us at native FL
But do not join me here in Madison, the weather is cruel and I probably won't be able to shoot until January
Unless I snap and decide to take my RC to Texas
(I'm visiting my parents for the holidays)
Tbh its a little more fun
Plus my EQ6R seems to always guide better than the threshold for ruining a sub.
I can count on it to handle the RC at full power.

I think my dust mote calibration issue could possibly have something to do with an inaccurate AFW calibration. 
Im going to recalibrate it tonight and run the same tests. If the issue vanishes, then the RC is perfect, if it remains, Im going to take the mirror cell off and flock all of the baffle tubes as well as paint all of the knife edge baffles.
That should be the final nail in the coffin should this last step fail
Ohhhhhhh this might explain why some of my dust motes appeared to move in my photometric flats
I didn't even think about that
Yeah
Ive taken the imaging train out and put it back in so many times since the last calibration that the roulette has probably moved from the "known" position.
Thankfully that was not image data
Also if we want to collaborate it should be very straightforward
Yup
I want to go deep on M82 this coming galaxy season
I really want a high resolution, sharp image of it.
My seeing was balls for this but even then the scope still resolved a couple of globs in the disk of M82. 
I got one frame of M82 in IR if you want it 
What if we collab'd on M51 or someth

I want to do M74 or something of the sort but I have no horizon for it.
I could only get like 5 hours a night max
Gotta decide if I want to try to get dark site data too
See if i can maybe combine home data and dark sky site data
Basically all of my gradients were from stray light lmao
How would you feel about trying to image the M90 jellyfish
I got no problem with M51, but something that difficult really makes a collaboration worth it
You mean the H-alpha?

Yup

I am not very constrained by horizon but anything below –20° is going to be difficult
Anything north of 30 degrees or about south around -13 degrees
Actually semi lie
I can image almost anything around the celestial equator and more south.
If i move my EQ6R to the grass, I could probably get M90
Anything more south than that is unlikely to work though. 
Dumb tree, man.
Coma cluster

damn what stopped it from working
The OAG
That imaging train is eating too much back focus.
The OAG. I'm 11mm o er the maximum back focus
This is nice! The best that I have so far:
It's a heavy crop, from this
When I go to Australia, if the timing works out, I might try to shoot the Bullet Cluster
https://www.cloudynights.com/forums/topic/617066-bullet-cluster-of-galaxies-dark-matter-hot-topic-first-am-image/
Unfortunately it's looking less and less likely that I'll be able to shoot things at 6 hours RA (which includes the LMC sadly)
NOOOO
At least get Carina if all else fails
I should be able to do that
Southern Milky Way will be very accessible
Good 
banger?
lovely palette
now that star color makes me think that there's been added IR into the mix
correct
coloursful
C o l o u r s 🔥 🔥 🔥
The colors in the lower right are so interestingly beautiful imo
Not that they arent in the Rest of the Pic, this Corner hast Just catched me interest
banger.
this better get iotd
