#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 25 of 1
Yeah go to sleep jeez
But we will get to the bottom of this and invent a perfect measure of quality someday trust
gn
When you expose for longer, or stack images, you effectively scale up the spatial frequency information proportionally with the MTF. Finer features show less contrast than coarse ones
(That is not rigorous please don't kill me)
But with Gaussian noise (perhaps that's the sensor's read noise) you're fighting against a flat line in frequency space
Poisson noise isn't Gaussian (it's going to depend on the image features themselves), but with a uniformly illuminated background you get baseline noise that's roughly Gaussian

What if the sky illumination is like mine?
Where there is a noticable drop in signal over the course of only 3 hours
Wait how is the signal dropping
Extreme light dome variations
Ah
The region right above my house is dang near bortle 7 but everywhere around me is some variation of a high bortle 8 or 9
With visible and obvious increases in magnitude btw
Well, that's where statistics gets a little funky when you stack due to normalization
Poisson noise is always going to be present, and a bright background increases the noise, which you can't get rid of by just subtracting the background
The best practice would be to weight the subs in part by the baseline illumination
💀
It changes roughly every sub
I mean I'm pretty sure that's what PixInsight does with WBPP

I am pretty sure it goes off of psf signal and not object signal
With the way mine us set up
Damn... I did not expect you guys to go that deep into it🤣
I just wanted to point out that a 130PDS can in fact compete with you all
Yet you still can't match my aura
Wait does that actually work lol
It might be too high in quality
Bruh💀
You sure that Aura is not light pollution? 
This thread has seen more conversation than my first 1 year relationship
I love how in this thread there's more than half of the messages sent in the planetary imaging thread, while being less than a third the age 
#1326833769495269376 message
Yesterday alone everyone went crazy over this image
that was something
24037 messages 
@frosty shard just so you know what the light pollution is like near zenith vs the end of a night
left is near zenith, right is around 30 degrees
Big oof, those gradients
I started reading a bit and gave up:)
Btw how thick are your spider vanes just out of curiosity
About 2 mm
Nice
@frosty shard are there any light leaks in the Askar OAG that you know of?
None I'm aware of, do you suspect one?
maybe?
this is a green flat on my redcat which has the askar OAG on it
that circle won't fully calibrate out
I don't know what OAG @tight lodge has, but this may be of interest to him too
a light leak is the only explanation i can think of
im not sure it isnt the filter wheel still, though
Which filter wheel are you using?
ZWO 8x1.25" EFW
kind of a better idea of what im dealing with
ive saturated it a butt load so you can see the remnant better
even DBE cant get rid of it
I have the PlayerOne 2" OAG
same scope but from lasst year
weird
they kind of look the same but inverted as far as what color the patches show up as
Show me the imaging train
I have absolutely been shooting at the wrong gain...holy crap
u have been Shooting at 100 right?
I think that's the biggest drawback for Touptek. They give you more options than what you actually need
(The Ugly Truth – Its more Complicated than you ever thought!) A lot of users struggle with flat fields that don’t work well, and leave gradients in their images, or hot spots, or other hard-to-process-out artifacts. As a result they have resorted to twilight flats and other techniques to get better results. In this paper […]
@harsh matrix @frosty shard you might find this interesting
I actually have seen this before, and I am curious about how well that black paint may reflect IR
the thing is, the interior of my focuser draw tube is flocked and not painted
and i get similar bright circle in the middle as you guys
I do not get that anymore
Ever since I flocked the M56 adapter
Here is an infrared flat I just stacked
jolly :D
sooo mayny ciocle
...how do I have walking noise...
Did you dither too few times?
If at all?
Nah, these are 15 second exposures and I dithered every 4 frames lmao
I think I know what happened
It was windy, and these frames seem to have biased dithers
All along one direction
Thankfully it will be easy to recover 40 minutes of IR data
Oh no
pretty :3
100 gain (left) vs 200 gain (right). Hard to directly compare due to different histogram transforms, but I think this was the correct call
@tight lodge does this beat your 3d blender model 
is right less noisy?
for similar signal
Regardless, I do like the granularity. It's nice to have full manual control over the sensor
Yeah
its a class cass tho btw
Both are 15 second exposures
higher gain and less noise???
Yeah
You have less quantization error, and the read noise is a smaller fraction of the image
why tf is gain 200 better???
Because you're counting all the photons, not just half of them
that's not how gain works?
Or 1/2.15 of them, at gain 100 with my camera
thats what i thought ngl
I could be misunderstanding something, please pop off
isnt gain the amount of current sent through the sensor?
to my understanding, gain is basically just a transformer scaling up the voltage before converting to ADU
that way it can be read more precisely, but you have lower dynamic range
so basically a trade-off between quantization error and dynamic range
that waht i meant yea
also increases sensor noise bc of electrons being counted as light
Which noise specifically? Quantization noise goes down
dark noise and shot noise goes up (measured in ADU)
you're basically just multiplying the signal and the dark current by a constant
so noise goes up, but SNR remains constant
i think read noise remains constant tho, because that comes after the amplification, so SNR goes slightly up if read noise is not swamped
(measured in ADU)
Yup, highly relevant in the case of my 15 second IR exposures
oh yeah, you can actually see quite a bit of horisontal banding too, which is almost purely caused by read noise
how do you read noise?
It actually looks a little worse at gain 200
So it might not be read noise in the usual sense, but internal interference
I should check the camera USB speeds, because that seems to be one of the factors that causes banding
oh really? i've never heard of that causing issues
Yeah, it's a thing in a lot of cameras. QHY even suggests changing it on their site
But I'd rather shoot at gain 200, even with more banding and less dynamic range, and just double my frame count, because stacking will restore some of the data's range
to be clear "read noise" is a term for noise that is intrinsic to the sensor. As opposed to shot noise (or Poisson noise) which is intrinsic to the quantized nature of light
second graph is in ADU right?
Excellent question...
Here's where the graph comes from
Usually read noise number are cited in electrons, so I assume that's the unit
read noise should definitely go down in electrons tho
otherwise there would be no reason to increase gain
I'm wondering if the amplifier starts having a significant noise contribution that scales with the gain
so 200 best?
huh, maybe
or 300?
i guess there's still the advantage of less quantization error ig
I'd have to do more testing, but it seems like with the Touptek ATR533M, unity gain is 200 in high conversion gain, high full well, and low noise (ultra) mode.
The graphs suggest lower read noise at gain 316 (gain 316 is equivalent 0.6 electrons/ADU conversion)
actually i don't understand the unit
how is it electrons/ADU and not just electrons?
clarified it
maybe its electrons over adu 
Conversion gain refers to the number of electrons a single ADU corresponds to. So unity gain is 1 electron/ADU
oh yeah i understand that, but how do you measure noise with that unit?
wait I just can't read lol
Ok I think we're on the same page again
@frosty shard something I hope to study more once my RC goes to Starfront is stellar streams and galactic halos.

Stuff ive never been able to pay attention to from here.
Not even really from the dark sky site.
Since a lot of them are so faint that you have to get like 20+ hours of lum, which is not a achievable from the dark sky site with the rest of the stuff going on in my life. 
The adapter I need for my RC6 is gone
mail lost it
USPS’s reputation meets expectation
It’s been in transit from Texas for 3 days….
Supposed to be delivered today
I can’t afford an M63 adapter soo great
Hmmmm
Well lets see
They wouldn't have been moving yesterday
Maybe not even overnight last night.
Oh sorry it’s been in transit for 4 days
Like it hasn’t been scanned in the next facility
After 4 days
:/
Hopefully it’s cause of the holidays. I really don’t want to spend $40 on an adapter
Definitely is
It disrupted one of my purchases too.
Also they suck at keeping information current.
I wouldn't worry unless somehow a week flies by with it allegedly being in the same place.
Gain 0 vs gain 210 (unity)
You have a 585 though right
The Touptek version has different settings
I'll loop in @crisp flower since I saw he has an Omegon 533M
P1 settings are very simple.
And tbh, I still don't get it why would you need the access to all those settings on Tpuptek
I know offset can drift, but if gain can drift as well, I'd rather have a camera that does not automatically switch modes
I never heard someone having issues with that
I mean you don't need to have access to all those settings to get a good image
I just prefer to have fine grained control over the camera
It's like car enthusiasts who have cars with manual transmissions
Speaking of that, driving a manual transmition in a busy city makes you want to set the damn thing on fire
so you see? each has it's place.
@harsh matrix this might explain why HFW mode won't calibrate
https://www.cloudynights.com/forums/topic/910209-touptek-26000-kpa-imx-571-sensor-analysis/
although I haven't had calibration issues (at least not caused by the camera itself), the mode is usable if you bump the gain up
but I'm not sure if you actually want to use that particular mode
It makes more sense with the ATR533M judging from the documentation (you achieve the lowest read noise)
@harsh matrix , do you remember when i was talking about mirror actuators for collimation? Look what i stole from JWST
wtf
What? This thing has micron precision
Oooh
wow, the diff actually isnt that big
i know lol
i didnt expect it to look like that
how work
Because it's the same😂
Can you tell the difference from the pictures alone? 
yes
how
the secondary of the rc is about 1 to 2 cm bigger
the tube protecting the secondary from stray light is longer in a cc due to the secondary being firther away
the cc tube is longer
and the tube protruding from the focuser into the ota is also smaller in the cc
One has a red dovetail duh 
if i somehow couldnt use this and i had both scopes irl to look through but i didnt know which is which i could use the aberrations at the edge of the field to tell
a cc only has astigmatism
and thats kinda easy to spot
Why there are no fast RCTs?
Imagine an 8" 650mm RCT
That would be the ultimate telescope
USPS “attempted delivery” stfu no you didn’t
“Your item is being held at the post office. This is at the request of the customer” yea shut up usps
2d histogram >:3
USPS? More like "UPS, we made a mistake"
thats exactly how "oops" is spelt in german
which is also why UPS is memed so much
theyre so
bad
i hope my camera comes home safely
3d histo
What’s the chance this is good
-1
why
There's absolutely no way that a 0.5x is good, the fact it's 30$ doesn't help whatsoever 💀
idk I kinda wanna try it
what reducer would you recommend then
For a RC?
What brand is yours again
GSO
https://www.teleskop-express.it/riduttori-correttori-spianatori/3187-ccd-riduttore-067x-per-rc-teleskop-service.html I've heard ok things about this one, sorry for the italian website
Teleskop Service CCD riduttore 0.67x per RC
Hmm...I don't use my reducer, and I have one of the Apertura 0.67x ones
what's your budget for one
I think I’d rather take my chance with the $30 0.5x 💀
I'm willing to bet it's the same thing but rebranded
Yuppers
I’m just exploring. I want something cheap but not garbage
Idk why you are expecting precise lenses like this to be cheap lol, to me that is cheap actually
What’s the worst that can happen
I can try looking for a cheaper one but idk
You waste 30$
the only 30 dollars i would waste is on a nangtong foric filter

i have this
it is actually good for visual
i bought it for $5 tho
dont buy it then
🥺
also you need to try visual
what
its insanely good for ap
I don’t believe you
if you do 1nm pass narrowband 
I have a 6” dob
The heritage
will that be better or worse for visual
Probably the same no?
it is
better or worse than what
My rc6
just not if you want to use more than 1nm of light
ik you have a 6" dob but the question didnt make sense
Probably better cause AZ is nicer to handle and less CO
RCs are made for photography
25 nm wavelength though 💀
not bad for 30 tho xD
and almost feasible for osc
I feel like it would be cool to get off-band narrowband images and use them for continuum subtraction
wdym by offband?
So when you continuum subtract an image, you're subtracting the continuum contribution to the band of interest from the true narrowband signal
yea
When you do this with broadband data, you're approximating the continuum contribution by scaling down the magnitude of the broadband channel to match the magnitude of the broadband contribution to the narrowband channel
Which is generally not a bad idea just because you get significantly less noise with a wider filter
But I'd be very interested to see what happens if you subtract the signal from an O-III filter from this one
Also, this would actually be a good comet filter
It covers the Swan bands
@scenic mango
they make specialized comet swan filters
Got any recommendations?
honestly may get when i get mono
would be so cursed
FIH pallete

What's F lmao
there seems to only be the baader filter lol
at least for "proper" swan filters
Oh I was reading I as iron oops
😭
iron ir hbeta
probably halpha
bc longwave
That's 15 nm, so definitely better, but for the price I'd take the Nantong to start lol
pick it up yourself if your impatent
I am?
Because I have to?
did you not read my message?
They lied multiple times. They didn’t attempt delivery (they are a delivery service). And they are lying, holding my package saying it was my request (I didn’t request that)
did you call them
hm
Anyone who works at usps hates themselves and makes it their job on being useless
lol
how do you even turn these into astro filters
you just put a holder on them
damn
what are they for touptek?
G@digital nexus have you received your focuser adapter?
It was delivered today
N8ce!!
Thought I’d have to pick it up at the post office but I guess USPS decided to… you know. Deliver
I’m going to test my 50mm guide scope on my Askar, hopefully guiding will be around 0.4-0.5”. Once I am confident in that, it’ll be time to mount the RC6 on the Ragdoll and get rolling
The weather has been absolute garbage for the last month so it might be a while
I did get to try my new 60mm scope
Although it was pretty windy, it worked great
What mount again?
Any issue with Flexure?
I got into sub 0.4 during the moments of calm
Not that I can notice
Cg4 with onstep
I need to be under 0.56”
I mean, if my mount can, yours should be fine too
What guide scope do you have
@digital nexus I got Astromania 60mm F4
Probably identical to the SVBONY one I got but larger
Reuploading this here just because I need to share it in a different format with someone
What did you use for the timelapse
I’m thinking of doing one with my dslr
I borrowed a Canon EOS R6 from my university library, lens at f/4, 24 mm, ISO 6400
How often did you take an exposure
Whoops, 15 second exposures every 20 seconds
This was at a high Bortle 4 site
I got a nifty fifty
Wonder if it’ll be too long
guess I can just move it back a bit idk
@frosty shard I printed a little mask for the front of my reducer
shouldnt need to risk destroying the front element anymore
Ah, now that's a better idea
I guess you could print one that threads in
I didnt have that idea lol
I have to tape it on
Maybe I can make another one in the future
In general it cant be too thick and if I want to make one that threads one, it could be too thick.
It's about 3 mm thick which is occupying a mil or a mil and a half of the outer edge of the reducer.
Yo now that's an idea
I could test something like that for my quattro's coma corrector

@frosty shard update to the RC
It can handle APS-C without vignetting at native
In lum
I get vignetting across the board with a reducer.
Not surprised considering how big of a chungus the secondary is lol
I think my next major upgrade to the RC will be a larger sensor
Hell yeah
Btw gonna have to take your idea to thread the mask on
There's no way it can work with tape lmao
It wont fit with the baader click lock
Ideally I'd wait for a Starvis 2 sensor to drop but honestly idk if I will...I might just go for an IMX571.
Ah, that's a problem
Also I'm prioritizing a few other things before a sensor that I would consider minor upgrades:
- Touptek/bolt-on OAG
- Gemini EAF
- Antlia IR pass
Also I think a mirrorless camera and small refractor would come before a sensor upgrade
I used electrical tape and even though it's a tenth of a mil thick at the most, it cant go in the baader
so, there's more contrast in the corners
i dont have any clue if that is going to be enough to fix what i was seeing
i guess the problem was subtle enough that it only showed up after stacking
it's a good thing that the corners are both brighter and darker where there's light there because it was undercorrecting before
that means this one could correct all the way
It does look like a very symmetrical pattern
Are the edges of your mirrors masked? 
no
but that pattern does not exist on a flat taken at native focal length
Could that be the reason for the bright circle?
there's very even light fall off from the center to the corners with no vignetting whatsoever
highly doubt it since it isnt present in flats at native focal length
the flat field errors above are only ever present with the reducer
(this is why I am beginning to think reducers are bad and should never be used)

Well that's what I'm saying. Maybe with the reducer, the sensor is now able to see the edges of your mirrors
I heard that reducers like to mess up the light cone
I doubt it
the secondary maybe but not the primary
they 100% do
That's my case as well. The edge of the secondary has a chamfer that is creating some weird artifacts
I might design a shroud for it eventually
Kinda like how the RCTs have the secondary mirror baffle
idk if it's the secondary mirror, there's nothing i can do since the secondary is baffled already
there's bound to be some rotation issues but either way, i highly doubt this works at all
it left artifacts in roughly the exact same places
you can ignore the dust motes on the left image because they are new
although I think the issue is manifesting due to light pollution and these light frames are already tainted
i would have to get new light frames to verify
Are we the only ones in this server that actually work on getting an optically perfect telescope? 
yeah because mine is optically perfect as-is.
Actually I can see that Hotspot by shining my phone down to the primary mirror
oh sorry you were asking if we were the only ones, not just you, I misread
Yes... we. Not me. WE
@tight lodge you use Fusion right?
Yes sir
can you make threads of finer pitch than 1.5 mm?
Yes, but you might not be able to 3D print them😅
I've been able to 3D print a pitch of 1.0 i believe
I need 0.75 mm though 
@frosty shard I guess I am not making it threaded

maybe i can press fit it in idk
In fusion360 you have a thread function. You select the body, then the metric and the pitch
Thats what I was doing
But afaik, it locks you into the choices in the drop down
Yes, that's because of the diameter of the part. It tries to match the metric and pitch to standard dies that you can find. Ok... an m48x0.75 die will cost you a kidney
bruh
that's okay
backup plan
💀
we'll just press fit it in like this
the outer diameter will be too large to fit in the front of the reducer but with these gaps, the plastic can deform enough to fit

in theory
Make a quote at JLCCNC and see how much they ask for
Not worth asking?🫠
Nope
What if it's a good deal?
dont care
dont need to pay for something this simple
So what do you need it for?
Duuude!
I think I got something
Are the edges of the lenses inside the reducer painted black? 
The reducer
I dont think so
It could be glare from the lens edge
:D
I am going to give the reducer one more try tomorrow night
If it fails, I will not use it again, or at least until I am done holding a grudge. 
If it fails, take it apart and use a sharpie to paint the lens edges black
@digital nexus curious, how is the collimation looking, did you have a chance to test?
nope
I won’t be able to until this weekend
I’m back in my dorm for the last week of university
My 585MM Pro is here 
When we expecting the first light?
I wanted to do it next week
Buuuuut
I think I may do it tonight.
There's no reason not to.
What ya shooting?
I haven't picked yet
something easy to shoot maybe?
Probably
It would have to be narrowband too since the moon is full
question mark nebula?
lemme look around first 
Check the framing😂
I can't fit the thing in my framing
How about the Tadpole?
revised
Did you just gently moved a bit to the left? 
yes
to get the cluster lmao
Flaming star would be cool too
Cone nebula?
I get a decent framing on it at 650mm
I'd go for this one. Just dump a whole night of Hα
i dont have a horizon on it though
the longest i can shoot it in one night is 4 to 5 hours
basically as it goes straight overhead

But... alnitak😭
alnitak can suck it
idc
cone neb might not be terribly painful with the quatt
since the quatt is f/3.45 or some bs
oh yeah the 585 has goated QE in H-alpha too

hmmmmm
maybe it wont be so bad

i think the 585 has better QE than my other 2 cameras
in general

i wish it didnt have such a small fov
and i wish the pixels were bigger
but that's the greedy RC8 user in me
it pairs well with the quattro
you should actually get good sampling with the quattro
yup
i am really not in love with undersampling atm
it's atrocious on the redcat
square stars?
@high aspen can you simulate a 10" 650mm f2.6 RCT in your fancy software?
worse than that tbh
pixel sized stars
or 2 pixel sized stars
please show me
almost so sharp that they look like noise
if u want
i'm just curious to how good or how bad it would be
LMAO
that's the only downside to this scope getting fixed
the field flatness will be not im pretty sure
the sampling is worse
but ill do a sim

ok, the bright stars are fine. but damn the small ones are literally minecraft stars XD
yes

tysm
Me here waiting for an APS-C Starvis 2 sensor
everyone here is waiting for one
ooooor we shouldn't
That's not Starvis 2
oh... i misread that
Any starvis is better than no starvis😂
Starvis 2 only exists for mass surveillance applications unfortunately
I wouldn't be surprised if we're stuck waiting for longer
And dash cams
Real
i tried....
this is the best i can do
@frosty shard https://www.firstlightoptics.com/starbase-telescopes/jscope-80-l-80mm-f15-refractor.html
its an actually decent frac
they are made per order
and are high quality
and they f15
so they loooong
mini one
probably the only frac i would ever buy
Rock solid
I think it was 200 USD or something but I didnt buy it for this scope
ah oker
2long4me
@tight lodge 10 minute H-alpha sub with the 585 mono on the quatt
waiting for cone to rise atm

your one sub is almost as good as my stack
and you are in slightly higher light pollution than i am too i think
damn mono nb is too good
Prime example of IMX585M in action 
I want one but it feels like a waste getting the mono version of a sensor i already have, even if it isnt
and the next sensor I'd want is way too expensive (571)
Get it
Also i can never make myself spend money
and a new mount is first priority
im using an eqm35 rn
with a 6" newt
i want a ragdoll17 but again i can never make myself spend money
im too stingy
i have the money for both but i can't make myself buy either
Idk if stingy is the right word, you get what I mean
Close your eyes and click buy
also parents issue
You got more nebulosity in linear state than what most people get in couple of hours stretched

Yeah 😭
Wait. You got the AM5N and EQ6R. Double setup per night?
Did you just realize that?

I'm happy that you can finally use them both at the same time
same
though 'use' is a little bit of a loose term at the moment
@frosty shard I made a meaningful change to the reflection
Buuuuut as you can see
The issue remains
Big oof
Man I didn't realize how much I was cooking by not using a reducer
No kidding
Im so unhappy rn
We are ditching this thing for the rest of tonight
Id like to see what lum is like without a reducer
thats why its so great!!
its stupidly long
and its prefect!!!
Why?
Because I am troubleshooting the RC rn
The Quattro and AM5N are being used
This rig is not so much 
Ahhhh. Well atleast you have a backup
That and the nice thing about having 2 rigs is it gives me the ability to troubleshoot frustrating issues like these reflections.
Rn the inside of the entire optical path is a black hole
It is where stray light dies
Speaking of backup 
Mine is taking shape
@harsh matrix What if you put the reducer from the Quattro on the RCT? 
Because the quattro has a coma corrector and not a reducer.
So your quattro is not reduced like every Q150P?
It is reduced but a coma corrector that reduces is not the same thing as a reducer
That's why I can't wait to get another mount or even OTA...I can use one for visual and one for imaging...or perhaps both for imaging
Just like a reducer is not the same thing as a field flattener
The reducer for my RC8 is a reducer/flattener and the reduction isnt the same as the quattro CC
You'd get reverse coma if you used a coma corrector on an RC
I mean technically you could use a coma corrector on an RC, but it would have to very specifically null the 5th order term since the 3rd order term is nulled
Also, @harsh matrix have you seen this?
https://www.astrosysteme.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/asa-comparison-rc-against-cdk.pdf
The interesting part isn't comparing the DK to the RC or the CDK to the corrected RC
Look at the on-axis spot size when you compare the RC to the corrected RC
It's worse if you add a corrector! Which lines up with your sharpness observation
NO SHOT
If the corrector doesn't have aspheric surfaces, there's probably a bit of induced 6th order spherical aberration
I AM BIG BRAIN?
I also suspected this myself (especially for IR) so that's why I never used mine
Oh my god
You're right
Well I was right and you're right that I was right

I knew it
Reducing an RC is a psyop to get us to shoot lower quality images 
rc's and cc's dont benefit from correctors
Naaah. I'll just stick with newtonians. Less pain in the arse
The difference is actually pretty small, but since the PSFs convolve, you will be able to notice a larger spot size
You can use a coma corrector on a classical Cassegrain
it still degrades image quality
on axis a perfect cc has less than 1um spot size
Would Zemax let you solve for an aspheric corrector? You could design one that has no on-axis aberrations in principle
maybe
i still need to learn the optomiser
its got like 100 different settings
@high aspen also if you notice, at 16 mm away from the center (which is beyond the vertical margin of a full-frame sensor) the spot sizes are basically the same, so there really isn't that much of a point of a corrector like this for APS-C or smaller
Even at full frame the benefit is marginal
ya
i knows
I will take my CA free infrared channel :D
5 minute Ha sub at native on the RC

sharp
right?
Whatcha shooting
Tadpoles
for now
gonna swap to a broadband target later to test luminance
that was like my 3rd ever target!!
ive yet to give it a fair shake outside of the last 2 weeks with my redcat
but the cat is wider than i want to go on them
cart
i want to see them up close
I am debating what to shoot tomorrow...it looks clear but windy
ya 
Ugh, the moon looks to be too close to the California Nebula
:(
i haet the mooon
I guess I could continue on the Heart Nebula
Maybe get IR stars?
H-alpha if I can manage to continue with 4 minute exposures
I am going to do lum testing on M108

something not imaged often
this guy is tiny
Oh shoot the moon occults the Pleiades tomorrow night for me
I never shot it😭
2.5" FWHM
despite the seeing supposedly being in the 3 to 5" range tonight according to the forecast
see?
I do have the seeing cheats

the RC8 is averaging 0.42" RMS atm
not the best ive ever seen but for this part of the sky, it is exceeding expectations
I need to fix the brightness but
alright i am going to do a test stack of my bub neb data
no flats
no calibration frames
just the raw lights
(havent taken calibration frames with this cam yet lol)
please do
one of us has to
i dont think my skies will permit though
wait to be clear that is my image, I just used the new Stellarium plugin to add my image
The original is worse in quality
what the hell
Add/enable the Nebula Textures plugin
Then you can add your own images to Stellarium
You will probably want to clip the blacks it seems
I need to reprocess that anyway
(You probably also want to update Stellarium if it's not available)
my quattro is getting some of the most beautiful data ive ever laid eyes on 😩
ewwwww
the images built into stellarium arent exactly black clipped either tbh
you could use the DSS colored sky survey instead of the default sky which is what ive been doing
You're right

IC 10 should be pretty faint regardless due to extinction
You only need flats and bias with it
ik
point is that ive not taken either of those yet
(psst...darks do help if you want to make a hot pixel map)
ofc
i have no need of that though
not atm anyway

not bad
3 hours of 10 minute subs
i expected no flats to go worse tbh

EZ data eh?
How much time so far?
2 hrs 50 mins

the nebulosity and some of those clustered stars threw it off
still not bad
I mean, it looks quite clear for that much
Says the guy who averages 2h per set💀
that's the power of the quattro

How long are the subs?
10 minutes
I really want to take this thing to those bortle 3 skies now
As they should be
i just realized i needed to purge some of these subs and forgot
it started to venture through my tree
had to delete another because of a plane
okay maybe the noise wont be gone after flats

I feel that pain. I had to throw 70min of data when I shot the fish head😭
And you know why? Some moron @tight lodge , forgot to enable refocus after HFR increase 
bro 😭
Yeah. Aaand because my spider is flocked I didn't noticed the quad spikes until I had to really zoom in on them stars
You're sampled at 1" exactly?
nah
1.167"/px
i was at 1.09"/px last time i owned a ZWO cam
1.36"/px when i imaged reduced with that came and scope combo
im technically smushed inbetween both scales of that particular rig
with 2" more of aperture

wtf is all this stuff
i dropped the exposure time down to 5 minutes btw
since it was clipping the bright parts of bubble
didnt want the same thing to happen in the cone neb
@tight lodge here you asked for it
now you get it
😩
it has the hubble floofiness

pretty cluster imo
holy
this isnt blurX'd
btw

That's a very bad context to put it. That thing looks rather phallic
💀
okay id own up to it if i meant to make that joke
but i didnt mean it

bro
should i
try
HaRGB on it?
and also do a HOO or SHO version?

im going to test how long exactly i can shoot it for tonight
then plan accordingly
If you got the time, go for it. You payed for all the filters, use all the filters😂
yooooo
now we're talking
im surprised the quattro is guiding at all
these stars are actual worms
Damn... that CC is struggling at the edge
yes
very much so
btw that's not even at the edge of a 2" frame
that's at the edge of a 1.25" filter

and it's a 120MM Mini of all things
tiny sensor
should not be this bad
this CC is pretty not good
Not at all😭
the corners on the 585 arent all the brilliant either
dang it man
i want flats

less sharp than bub apparently
They look about the same as mine after not colimating the telescope for the past 4 months 
i havent collimated this since august
but i never did get them 100%
the corners
i suspect it's the CC
light pollution is not playing nice with this poor galaxy
💀
Did yours also spent that time on the back set of your daily driver? 🤣
I think mine holds colimation pretty well ngl
no but it did sit in my closet for most of that time

mine isnt doing half bad either tbh
Ok then how is it possible that ours stay colimated and everyone's else don't?
User error but blame the gear😂 😂
could genuinely be
moving the scope around too much can cause it to lose collimation
but that has only happened with my RC
my Quatt seems to stick for whatever reason
ugh the EQ6R wasnt guiding well
turns out my PEC turned itself off when i had to task manager EQMOD

Ok... if EQMOD crashes. You are done. The only way to fix it is to completely restart the PC. It happened to me once. Everything seemed to work fine. The mount was slewing to the target, plate solve and so on. But PEC and guiding pulses were not doing anything
guiding works
im letting the PEC seek atm, if it cant find its place, then im not going to worry about it
i dont need amazing data tonight from this scope
i need just enough to test flats with
i got it to play again
had to turn the gain up to 1
The flats are working?
Discord reply works amazing 💀
true
didnt try any yet
Damn they sharp
Oooooohhh... because you take them in the morning. I get it
My brain is awfully slow for some reason

no
they did not work
Subtle... but I do see some repeating rings
i took lum frames before i got going
yes
i dont know what's causing these
you can see it in the master flat too
DBE flat
this is getting left over
looks like a light leak to an extent
i couldnt see something this subtle in the flats and broadband lights i took for the fish head project because of the nebulosity
thats why im testing out in open space
Hmmmmm dumb hypothesis.
The baffles.
I hope you understand the idea😂
im kind of thinking them too
nah not like that
the camera can only see the secondary mirror
nothing else
not even at extreme angles
I know, I exadurated the drawing. But it could be that the bottom side of the baffles are iluminated juuust enough to scatter some light and make it into the camera
that would be hardly suprising
This is what looking down into my OTA feels like. Hard cut edge where there's light and then pitch black. Everything is flocked😂
same deal as my quattro
the RC has knife edge baffles and i just resecured them
they cant move at all
so i dont know why they would have anything to do with this
this is useless nvm
How about the secondary mirror baffle? 
That was a waste of time to read💀
i think it might be the focuser drawtube
💀
yeah
The interior is not flocked?
pixinsight already saves everything as 32 bit
it's matte black paint and not reflective but the "black" is more like dark grey
Ok... I can help you find something better to flock the draw tube
yeah sure why not
i can order something
it would be worth my time to flock more than that too
like the inside of the focuser housing, outside and around the drawtube
Electric harness tape
It's made of fabric and it's quite good at absorbing light
You can see my drawtube here
A bit annoying. Since that thing only sticks once

I can order thin sheets of traditional flocking material
I could measure the inner circumference of the drawtube and cut it to the right wide and length.
Same goes for all of the extension tubes and the inside of the focuser housing if I want to
Or that
What? 
You want to use an OAG with this?
What
no
asi120mm guide camera with an OAG
Ahhhh
What am I even looking at here
120mm means 120 millimeters
it also means 120 mono sensor
Some Svboner guidescope
Yeah, on e complete context😅
I’m getting an OAG for free on Saturday, and the same guy is selling me an asi120mm for $100
Because my imx290 SVBONY cam is absolutely garbage
And barely works for guiding
So I can’t use it :/
But yes, you can use the asi120mm with an OAG. is it the lipstick one?
WTF IS A MILE 🗺️
but I’m hearing it may be too small of a sensor
Yea it’s lipstick probably
About this much
all I know is that it’s the asi120mm
This?
Yea it’s the lipstick just asked
But if im using it as an OAG with 1377mm FL isn’t that a lot for that small sensor
He says it worked with his OAG
Your guiding might be very oversampled at that focal length
He just told me he used it at 1480mm FL, and it was fine. He only had issues at 4800mm
Asi120mm is a bit old. I'd rather go for PlayerOne Ceres 462M or Sedna
Im broke
im paying $100 for it
Ahhhh
Idk if you’ve seen but my current guide cam is just dying. So I need something to replace it
I can always get a different guide cam for the OAG later, and use this one for my Askar guide scope
I want to eventually work my way to having 2 rigs
That’s my long term goal
Any guiding us better than no guiding
any salmon is better than no salmon
i don't like salmon
not even smoked??? 😰
Especially smoked
it tastes like eating a wet ashtray 🫠
howww 😭
ive tasted a wet ashtray and it tastes nothing like that :(

