#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 23 of 1
where is that?
oh it's a no go if it is coming from china
i am not going to chance any tariffs
Ahhhh... 🫠
Don't you guys have a limit there?
For example over here, as long as the imported product/products don't exceed the price of 150€ I don't have to pay import tax.
they got rid of de minimus which did set a limit
so not anymore
that WILL get tariffed unless Aliexpress has somehow exempt themselves from tariffs
How about mine?😭
That really sucks.
Now it makes sense why more and more Americans want to leave that country😂
That's for other reasons
mad cause you ain’t us
Well... the country I was born in also did wrong to me. Soooo I moved
Is this ISH palette?
It’s…. So peak
The texture in IC 434 is so well defined
Also I love the gapped diffraction spikes since there's only one broadband channel
yes
yup
it's pretty cool
dont worry
we getting more data until it starts raining
and i just did the final tune to my EQ6R so the next batches of data will be even sharper
Alnitak it's actually not that bad
it's wreaking havoc on the image just off to the right of the frame
i cropped that out because nobody wants to see that
Why are you making me swap by IR filter again?😭
i aint making you do anything
You know what? I won't, just for the moment
I'm not gonna do another IR project until I get my hands on a 10"
there you go
get some more aperture and bring that diffraction limit down
you will get much nicer data that way
RedCat jump scare
I mean... my resolution in IR atm is the same to a janky redcat
exxxactly
double the aperture, you will get far more resolution
Alright I think this is my best M20 by far
Get a lifepo4 battery with bms
1240Wh for around 200€
I will Sell my 150p
Has a bu spider and mirror mask
And then get a askar 103
Got a link? (I'm in the US so availability/prices will vary)
I currently have a 280 Wh battery so I'll be happy to just go up to 500 Wh or so
It’s a German link
You Need to get a 12v lifepo4 battery with bms
Also a Charger for it
And Adapter from Ring to idk ur powerbox
Do you happen to use yours with NINA?
I'd love to have my rig automatically park and shut down if the battery drains too far
The battery shuts off after some time with no power draw
And you Can Connect the battery to Ur pc via bluetooth and See the Powerdraw and turn it off/on
I can finally test my RC6 tonight and I want to shoot the cats eye nebula. Do any of you have any tipps which I should keep in mind?
I didn't realize until now that I will actually double the aperture 😂
Just stretched
honestly if it's your first night I would recommend just having some fun and doing EAA - survey a bunch of different objects
(that also can be a good stress test of your mount/scope combo - you can see if you have any trouble with guiding across different parts of the sky)
might be a good idea too
I have too many targets in mind and the night isnt that long xD
BLASPHEMOUS
I totally agree
Quick thing… I cannot balance this with my imaging setup attached… do I need to get a longer dove tail?
Then I probably can’t use the door tonight, right?
ur telling me that its that back heavy<
?
attach something heavy on the frontal dovetail part
thats what i would do
I have the filter wheel plus camera plus off axis guider and the extension things for the backfocus
Well... I would firstly strap the cables to the OTA. Then find a small counterweight to attachbon the dovetail in front of the telescope
Yeah I will do that. But not tonight this makes more sense during the daytime 😅
Them cables dangling like that make me nervous 
Considering I'm buying a new OTA soon I could sell you my dovetail counterweight
gonna have another Falling scope situation 😭
Didn’t know it was possible to have worse cable management then me
That sounds like a great offer! Should I PM you?
Yep
What's the RC Clan's opinion on hyperbolic superfast newtonians
EW REFRACTING ELEMENTS
Tbh I'm interested in one...sounds like a solid comet catcher. I wonder how usable they are visually
If you want a cheap and absurdly fast newt get the quattro 150p
f3.45 at 519mm
I had to get a counterweight for the dec
At the moment I'm not in the market for a new scope...I'll probably get an Askar F series next
@frosty shard you have any clue what could be causing this light leak?
none of these dust motes calibrated out and the vignetting is the worst ive ever seen
Is this at native FL or with a reducer?
reducer
it could still be the focuser
i cant really come up with a better solution without printing some super sophisticated thing to put inside the decoupler to stop all of this
im genuinely about to give up broadband
@frosty shard only got 40 mins more on c5 😭
I am honestly not sure, the only time I've had something similar happen was when I stacked all of my photometric frames. But that wasn't really proper image data (taken on a full moon, undithered)

i did one night where i dithered every 3 lum frames and shot all lum and that's when i noticed the first major issues
now that you say that, i wonder if that night is causing issues
was it close to full moon?
that would be infuriating if so because that's basically all of my lum data
no
i think there was no moon the entire duration of the imaging window
again
that's why i dont know what is leaking
how is it this bad?
what the hell is aimed at my scope to cause this massive of a problem WITH A SHROUD AROUND THE FOCUSER DRAWTUBE
I dont understand
Actually I have one question for you
Is your flat panel translucent all the way through?
my biggest concern is that the blue channel looks the same as the lum
not quite as bad since it is less data
yes but i put something opaque to cover the whole aperture with the panel between the aperture and the opaque thing (normally the scope cover)
i figured that could be a problem before i ever tried the panel
maybe i could try something to cover the entire panel?
I took these flats after sundown though
I actually have been trying this with aluminum foil, but I forgot - when I tried it I saw no difference in correction
there was not much of any light out there beyond the normal sky glow and the light from this panel
ugh
this is on my nerves
eedle deedle needle
clar streaks arent real
Bro same
And I lost all my imaging time last night 
Rip
Well its supposed to be cloudy starting tonight around midnight
Im just going to bring the scope in because theres a decent chance of rain, and it will rain thursday
While I have it in here im going to dissect everything on it and design parts to solve my problems because im tired.
@frosty shard I shoved my head into the aperture and covered every gap so no light could get around my head, and I shined my phone light at the gap between the little shroud I made and my OAG, to see if light was getting in there and going up the focuser
I saw literally no change in illumination
Can't see the sensor at all without light getting into the aperture, should have seen some of the light leak was the focuser.
W T F.
I stacked without the sussy night and it's just as bad
it only looks less bad because of less integration
im genuinely clueless
mrrp
miau
I think its a reflection or something.
The bad part is it's such a subtle problem that you cant observe changes in it throughout a night.
any houses and lights near you?
Everyone around me.
But not all night.
This issue persists all night, every night.
@frosty shard I may have just found it
oh
It is beyond a doubt not the focuser now.
The front of the reducer appears to be very slightly glossy.

You and me, buddy. You and me.
thats so evil
Felt paper will fix the problem though
fuzzy felt dinosaurs :D
best way to reduce light leak
Alternative color Palette since my Filterwheel died on me
Idk why but this Looks VERY different on the Phone compared to the pc
What palette?
Tbh im Not too Sure
I was a bot frustrated and played with Things until something popped Up that didnt Look too bad
I wanted to Take hargb but the Filterwheel only took ha and r so the disappointment was huge
this wasnt an issue when i threaded the reducer onto the focuser but now that i have to put the reducer in the drawtube, it has become an issue
those threads are shiny
that's not the only problem
the front of the metal is too
all of that is glossy
i just kinda counted that as the thread 😭
Ah, they may not have considered your particular use case...
i like the way the coating adds loads of reflections like that 
I get my RC6 on Friday
Man it's great to see that we have more RC enjoyers joining our ranks
yea we will see if I’m an enjoyer after I try using it
Ive had rain for 6 months straight i am not joking worst year ever
we've had worse
remember last year winter
Nah thats pretty much as bad as it got
not a lick of data
Its the one I'm talking about
oh bruh
Only got 1 usable night in December
Weather here is so bad I'm legit considering making my own remote observatory
and i thought 2 weeks was bad
hopefully
Hey RC gang
curious, are you mostly shooting with the reducer, or native?
thinking about embracing 1370mm FL for more details and smaller targets, but F9 vs F6....
I'm shooting at native FL with my RC8
And that's with a small sensor (533)
Part of the reason I do that is just so I can avoid chromatic issues when imaging infrared
Technically its suppossed to tighten up an image circle too (I think) in case of my aps-c. Do you own a reducer?
I do...but I have never used it lol
Your 8" would absolutely murder with a reducer
It would save me some time...but I want every last bit of sharpness I can possibly muster out of my scope
I hear ya
@frosty shard speaking of shapness, I just went through mirror cleaning and collimation. Does this look reasonably alligned to you? Defocused to get donuts
You probably want to use an aberration inspector to check. This is on-axis right? It's hard to tell
It looks good on-axis, but off-axis is what matters
Yes, crop into around center (Capella)
Thx, at least primary looks to be good then
id rather take the f2.8 hnt
I actully have some cluster subs from last night I didnt transfer yet, I'll post in a few
There may be some slight coma biased towards the lower left, but I'm not sure if it's enough to make a noticeable impact on your image
Ughh, upper right corner looks to be a bit flat. The rest seems to be reasonably round
Honestly, not terrible, but I get the desire to make some improvements
At least at my sensor size and native FL I'm not sure my collimation would be accurate at that effective distance from the optical axis
Still haven't denoised or deconvolved this data
Yeah, I don't think I will to be chasing that corner. The pain of f@cking it all up and spending days to get back is too fresh:)
@frosty shard
how much integration?
i think its about 2.5
maybe less
im imaging directly into city glow so massive gradient :(
i love how starry the area is
0.5s exposures was too long tho
trails :(
heres w no compression
like no diff
whats your setup?
i thought i was close enough to the pole
Pretty rad for untracked
some mf keeps trying to get me to denoise my images
how evil of them
(i did denoise with 0.3 modulation)
but with grax they want me to 😰
speaking of which, I'm almost done with some of the denoising code I'm writing
I could run you through how to use it
sure 
I have one last kink to work out and then I'll join one of the voice channels
oki
@high aspen I'm in
Rc8

I have a tiny Problem with tilt which i am currently ignoring xD
Getting the Filterwheel working is Main priority rn
@undone sedge I actually am down to hit you up for that M54 wanderer astro rotator
I am collecting my gear for Starfront
my final pieces
niceee
let me check how much i paid and i'll knock down the price a bit for ya
oh. okay agena
WHAT
LOL?
Benny told me about a remote controllable power strip you can buy
so now im going to buy that instead of a power box because i dont really need a power box.
guess i'll check my email 
since I won't get a power box, i can get away with the 40% off on the 585 too
$350? (i'll pay for shipping)
you will include everything it came with, too, right? 
yes
yeah that sounds good to me
cables n' stuff
yea that's fine
i will be out of town next week though so it'd have to be end of the week or the first week of december
im going to order a Deep Sky Dad OFP2 rn
yeah as long as we can figure out payment before then, I will be able to pay you by the end of the week.

neat
it was my vpn lmao
might have a change of plans
looks like you can order the OFP2 through Starfront and they will install it for you
which means I may have the money available, just give me a sec for my insider to respond 
oh cool
nvm I got confused
Would still like to wait until the later half of the week
all good
I'm excited to do this 
this poor scope is so handicapped in my backyard
I dont even have a western horizon for any declinations lower than M31
😭
@tight lodge I ordered a Deep Sky Dad OFP2
for one major reason
it opens like this
I can get a smaller pier at cheaper monthly cost if i get this
this flat panel, while expensive up front, saves me money in the long run 
my ragdoll comes Thursday, RC6 comes Friday. perfection
My guiding resolution is 0.5". My RC6 resolution will be 0.56" . gonna be tough to do DSOs
You never get theoretical resolution due to atmosphere
It appears my denoiser needs work...
yea exactly
but theyre so close it wont be good regardless

I have rc6, and I am guiding it with 120mm f4 scope (asi120mm), its fine
@high aspen just a warning not to do too many iterations with the denosier just yet, I gotta figure out why this happened
what guide scope
sv165 mini guide scope
oh thats what i use. i thought it was f/5 so i was confused
ok well maybe il be fine
what mount will it go on?
ragdoll 17 pro
harmonic?
yeah, plus some future proffing for when you'll want RC8:)
yea il have this mount for a long, long time. its equivalent to an am5
I am using celestron cg-4
i avoided celestron mounts like the plague
i never even heard of that, thats pretty cheap huh. Cheaper than my old GTI
its all mechanical, I motorized it myself with OsStep kit
ah
I would avoid their AVXs etc too
on a good day I get sub 0.5 with my maxed out payload
These flats panels are so nice but $4-500 for them is crazy
Its a large up front cost but if I dont get it, I will have to upsize the pier and no more Starfront we go.
we got an even bigger problem now
they just greenlit the development of more farmland to my south, probably the last of what's in that part of the city.
light pollution in my south is about to get much worse

And that's why you surround yourself with some chad lakes that can't be colonized by light fixtures
Just put your telescope in a desert you can't build cities without access to water or farm lands
that's where it's going, practically

the RC8
my others will still be handicapped here
How much is it at starfront
$200/mo
for the pier I can get
you can pay as little as $150/mo if you have a redcat you want to send there
Wouldn't building your own place costs less
where would I build it?
and it wont cost less to build an entire building instead 
property tax gets insane here
Like buy land in the middle of the desert its not too expensive compared to other places
like well over $1500/mo
Where do you live
DFW metroplex in North Texas
Then how is property tax so expensive i mean from what i know a 5 acre land in Colorado would set you back about 6k but I'm talking pristine sky high altitude and low precipitation and from what i know the property tax is like 50 bucks a year not too sure on that i could be wrong
Because
and you don't know this by the looks of things
Texas doesn't have income tax
but they have to get their money somehow
they get their money by cranking your property tax really high
the longer you live on/own a particular piece of land, the higher it gets
Damn
But like what about Colorado or nevada
The land is cheap to buy up front, but it will be expsensive down the road.
I am not going to build something that far away to where I can't go check on it in person on a semi-regular basis.
Fair but why do you need to check up on it on a regular basis
because if for whatever reason a cable comes loose/detaches or a piece of equipment fails, i need it to be relatively accessible
and for two, i would like to see for myself that somebody didnt run off with my stuff
that's another reason why a place like Starfront is nice, you have a contract in the event of something like a break in and you have people there to maintain the gear
Yeah fair
i cringe whenever i see new development up here in the mountains
the sprawl keeps on sprawling
yuppers
how do you think I felt when our mayor greenlit more development about 6 months ago 💀
makes me want to pull every hair off of my head one by one
the atlanta metro is too big as it is 
interesting design
it is big brain
it saves space so you can get a cheaper pier 
that flat panel is the only reason why i can afford Starfront
It technically takes just about as much a flip up flat pannel. But... hmmm
yes but instead of folding outward, it just folds into the inside of the swing diameter of the scope
virtually nullifying the space it inhabits within the swing diameter
Speaking of that. I've seen someone in this server that got his gemini flat pannel to open fully at 270° instead of 200°. And ever since I've been messing with mine trying to figure out how he did it😂
Wait... hold on. It's not even 200° it's more like 170°
i have my wanderers open to 260
wtf
i had no idea you could do that with those
but theyre easily $50 more expensive than the OFP2
at the size that i need
yea so i'd imagine they wouldn't take up any more swing diameter - outside of opening/closing but i only do that at home anyway
and they open up too so
Ok... the gemini does have 270° of travel but apparently the drivers on their website are wrong🫠
yeah
the drivers for their AF on their website are also wrong
Awesome. 
you cant configure the limits, direction, temperature control, or position with the drivers there
(see:)
okay putting it that way sounds like you have some control
you dont get any control with the drivers on their site

Yeah... the drivers on their website are the lite version
For obvious reasons, I'm not gonna go for wanderer astro
. A 150mm flat pannel is already too expensive, if I get a 10" newt, it will cost me an arm and a leg to get the 270mm one💀
exactly
Buuut. Since the Svbony powerbox likes to detonate on people, probably I will go for the wanderer astro one. Although I don't really need a powerbox😅
I was going to get that
however
Benny linked me something that's much cheaper which would achieve the same results
actually he told me about it
i found it
he said a LOT of people use these at SF
I was referring to the powerboxes that have the 2155 barrel plugs 😅
I know 
And for dew heaters. That's why I'm developing one that measures the temperature of the mirrors and compares it to the ambiental temperature and humidity. That way you just power it up and forget about it
lmaooooo
i see, ill have to avoid that 😭
i can also say that theres no noise in that image!!!
(exept at the edges)
He took your spot when it comes to ugly stars😂
Speaking of starfront. Imagine all the rigs at starfront shooting the same target all at once
Alright, this is actually kinda interesting because every star is appearing to be approximately the same size after this excessive number of iterations

Well this kinda implies that I'm able to detect stars with this denoiser, which is not the intended effect, but it's interesting
Why not use a denoise tool like everyone else?😅
Writing a denoiser is the fun part
Especially when you're not able to collect any new data due to weather
Join the radioastronomy gang😂
another reason i forgot about is that my scope needs collimation every so often lol
that means i absolutely cannot leave it unattended for long
Autocollimator 
lol
I can't exactly just pull one of those out of thin air
like my scope would be compatible in the first place 💀
Or better yet get a AO system with deformable mirrors those can fix every aberration and fix atmospheric seeing
Autocolimators don't move your mirrors
They use optical interference to tell you if your telescope or lens or whatever is collimated properly
It is
I mean proper stepper motor auto collimator
I'd call them mirror actuators😅
Oh right yeah
if such a thing was designed for consumer RC's at a reasonable price, that would be a miracle
I have not heard of somebody making such a thing though
For a newtonian, it would be quite easy
Indeed i was thinking of making one
But I'm not bothered enough to do it
Since you can completely redesign the mirrorcell to accommodate such mechanism and you could actuate the whole secondary spider to adjust the secondary mirror. However, coming up with a system that is precise enough for such fine adjustments would be a pain in the... uuuhm... barlow
well
make a design
create the pieces
I will install it on my quatt

I hate collimating that thing

Tbh with my quatt i can never tell wether I'm out of collimation or not its a pain
The main issue I'm having is always the software. I hate that. I can't figure them out
that's my primary concern tbh
I dont know what software would work and how well it works
It could be that I'm out of collimation and thats what's causing the wierd stars it could be the mount it could be the backfocus on the coma corrector or it could just be the stacking software
Like, could probably figure ut something kinda manual. But nothing automated
Probably something like a custom one step setup with a custom script
Yeah... but you still need an algorithm that would intentionally defocus the telescope, identify the shape of the unfocused star, then compare it to a reference aaaand figure out the necessary adjustments
Yup
Some guy actually already made that
Its like a youtube video about making an auto collimator
gonna need one of these
https://agenaastro.com/wandererastro-m54-male-to-m54-male-adapter.html
there's this one for M54 rotators specifically for Wanderer Astro rotators but the description says M54x1 threads on both sides when the Wanderer Astro Rotator schematics show M54x0.75 on both sides 
I was thinking Starfront is a 5 hour drive
Nope
It's only 3 and a half hours away


At that distance you better be driving your rig there not shipping lol
Lucky
Omw to starfront
I am
@tight lodge @harsh matrix (really anyone who uses NINA) do you use the Sequencer Powerups extension
nope
No specific question or anything, I just discovered it and it looks extremely powerful
Probably useful for automating mosaics
Among many, many other things
@frosty shard somebody is using their Carbonstar RC8 on an AM3 and theyre getting 0.41" RMS

Like 30hrs for me
I call it a lie. Especially if he gets those values with a piggyback guidescope
omg it is a piggyback
i didnt see that
guess what
it's a 30 mm too
so it's really not going to be accurate

I had no clue what rig you was talking about... but I nailed it
Most likely diffraction limited 
nah i always forget that not everyone uses an OAG
💀
Shame
With or without a counterweight
with counterweight
lmao
that was the second thing i checked
i was like, wait how is this guy using this tiny thing if he doesnt have a counterweight, and then i saw it
my am3 didn't like my carbonstar 150
even with a counterweight?
uh, without
i think
i put the counterweight on it and it was fine
i didn't have a bar for it at first

that was like a year ago
gosh that sounds horrendous

i would have not kept doing that to the poor mount
had to make sure i got the sound on video
i have an am5 now, but still use the counterweight lol, for better guiding
yeah normally I run the counterweight too just for the better guiding performance.
did you use my TGVDenoise implementation for this
3x3 median filter at 10 itterations
- sirils denoise
Once I have all of my stuff together, I am going to have to rig the RC8 up and test it all out.
I think for that test, what I am going to do is I am going to lucky image M42's core.
Then I will most likely get some longer exposure data to fill out the fainter parts. 
Always use the counter weigth. No matter if you are within the unbalanced payload range😭
I paid for counterweight free mount capability and I'm gonna use it
honestly a carbon tube RC8 weighs very little, even when loaded
i wouldnt bother with a counterweight if i was using a 150i or a UMi 20S
Same
Bro called me poor 😭
Can you lift your fully assembled rig?
Yes.
Then why do you need the cart to carry the rig?
Do you know what it's like to slam your optical tube or image train into a door or wall?
I don't
and I intend to never know
Sooo... it makes transportation easier. That's what a counterweight does on harmonic mounts
i do!!!!
same!!!!
@harsh matrix The difference between flocked and deflocked secondary spider is absolutely insane
I gotta deflock mine asap
@frosty shard @harsh matrix I figured out why we all get this artifact in our flat frames. Apparently if the flatframe is too close to the telescope, it can create this effect because the light rays are not parallel enough
I thought flocked was good
It is. But the diffraction spikes are not as pretty 
So my mount arrives today
And the RC6 tomorrow
Looks like it’ll be clear Saturday too. I’m not sure if I want to try my new mount with my Askar 71f first, or the RC6
Probably smarter to do my 71f since I know there’s nothing wrong with it, an itll be easier to setup
oh yeah totally
Would I be able to collimate inside somehow? So I can get it done before trying to image
You will have to replace the focuser
As for the optics, I'd say is 1:1 with apertura
This Looks exactly Like my omegon one, except the color of the tubus
yeah theyre all the exact same
all just a GSO recolour basically
Yea
whats the problem with the stock focusser
tilty wilty :(
Why is gso so ugly
white tube is soo bad
they love to add some extra flex after the price tag
Here is the summary of it. For primary Tighten the primary pull screw corresponding to the bright side of the image.
For secondary: Tighten the secondary pull screw corresponding to the flat stars
I asked Gemini to summarize it in steps. Did pretty good
primary is adjusted on-axis, until de-focused star is universally bright/round
secondary is adjusted by looking at corners
I’m hoping I won’t need to adjust the primary
think there's no way around that
silly :3
I didnt come up with it:)
@digital nexus just dont try collimating using laser
I know
Although you can use SCT lasers
I built myself this device, pretty much an OCAL clone. Works amazingly for initial/mechanical alligment, gets me within one or two DSI iterations
not as good
Its an alignment tool you would use before going for a star test, gets you pretty close so that DSI turns more into a fine tuning. You mount it instead of your cam, and can get views like this to get things mechanically aligned:
What is flocked
@digital nexus When do you expect to receive it?
just half flock the spoobles!!!!
Ah
To revive what
I’m receiving 2 things today and tomorrow
Ragdoll today - should be like now
RC6 tomorrow
Hang on, people flock their secondary spiders?
its a fluffy black
Yeah I'm gonna need to do that to my scope as well
Yeah I'm gonna need to do that to my scope as well
dubble sent 
Can’t wait to get the RC

I think he's deflocked his spider to make the spikes stronger
When are you expecting it
Tomorrow
rc hater 

lmao whomst'd've done this
this data was never meant to be reprocessed
im traumatized
ah yes
much better
@frosty shard look at this snr!!!
You can get better SNR if you bin all your pixels
i binned it passed 1 pixel and siril crashed 😭
told you
If the OTA has the same linear bearing Crayford as the Apertura ones, it's not horrible, but I'd rather use the rack and pinion upgrade for imaging.
Do you know how the spider is being deflocked?
I peel the flocking from it
I would highly recommend not messing with the collimation until you actually evaluate it under the stars. Lots of people screw up collimation that way
What does the spider look like without the flocking?
I'd like a reversible deflocking for my scope, so if I can deflock with reflective stickers that would be great
Also, I'm slightly skeptical of this, because if this was the case, your flats would have fewer problems than ours since your tube is longer
Well, it might be mitigated in our case by greater baffling that limits the effect of the more divergent rays
I'm suspecting that it has something to do with the CO in general
Is your OTA baffled?
No
Makes sense because my data calibrates just fine with the reflection issue fixed
Looking to upgrade my sv165 30mm F4 guide scope (used with asi120mm cam). Trying to decide whether I should I be going for a bigger scope (like 50-60mm with 200-240mm FL) , or off-axis guider?
will be keeping the same camera
The only time I have issues is when I try to take Flats for NB filters
OAG. And you will never worry about guiding
Is the issue of not getting enough stars real?
Depends.
It might be, depending on your imaging interests
When I image emission nebulae along the Milky Way, guide stars are easy
Galaxies far from the Milky Way are the challenge
thats what i was wondering about
but your FL is longer
And you're using a reducer right
in am at ~925mm with the reducer
That makes it easier
I would still recommend the OAG just in case you have flexure issues since it's just not possible to have them with one
I was thinking from more of a imaging scale perspective, primary vs guide scope FL ratio. It should be up to 5:1, right? There are 60mm F4 scopes out there
I think my current guide scope fl is to small at 120mm
you can put the guidescope lens before the guidecam to act as a reducer 
It would be better to have a longer focal length if you want to stick with a guide scope, yeah (though I have only ever used an OAG)
it's silly, but it also acts as a counterweight for my back-heavy setup
I got the same problem lol
What kind of mount do you have
Celestron CG-4 with Onstep
very much maxed out:)
Ah with a strain wave mount the imbalance does reduce performance a bit but it does not pose a risk
I am still amazed that its able to handle the load
same tbh
So...I think I might oneshot that 16 panel mosaic of Andromeda tomorrow night
@frosty shard 10" RC closed tube for 1500€, what do you think?
I already messaged the guy but he has yet to answer
GSO of course
GET THAT
Steal
Royal steal
Grab it
Who uses a guide scope on their RC?
Only @tall summit does AFAIK
if i do, do i only need to worry about flexture or whatever?
cause im not sure about an OAG
Not sure about what
Flexure is the main consideration
the weight
and using it. seems complicated. guide scope is easy and simple
I'm pretty sure an OAG is going to be lighter than any guide scope
im considered about the weight on the focuser
my mount can handle the extra weight
With the upgraded focuser it really will not be a big deal
I've had no issues with the stock Crayford or the upgraded rack and pinion focuser
I cannot say myself just because I've only ever used an OAG, but I hear a lot of people describe OAGs as easier/simpler than guide scopes, since they're integrated into the imaging train
well i thought it was cause its coupled
You're using an OSC camera right? I've been using a full mono imaging train (OAG, filter wheel with 8 1.25" filters, cooled IMX533) and have not seen any issues that arise from coupling (miscollimation when the azimuth changes, for instance)
Now I do have a later RC so perhaps there have been undocumented changes to the mirror cell
But you'll have a relatively light imaging train
I was actually worried about the same thing when I got mine
thats funny cause i hear the opposite lol
OAG is gonna weigh less than a guide scope of sufficient size lol
That upgraded focuser will have no issue
If anything, the fact that it's coupled means you want an OAG even more than if it wasn't.
The thing is, flexture arises from a desync between the imaging camera and the guide camera.
There’s a NINA plugin that can correct that apparently
And can’t you adjust the guide scope for flexture?
That's made worse if/when the imaging camera experiences any degree of "mirror flop"
You can try to attach it more rigidly but ultimately you will be limited by the size of the guide scope.
Your RMS will likely look good but your images will be pretty blurry
Because there is a guarantee that your small guide scope will not perceive subtle movements by the mount that your imaging camera will see.
I bought a new guide scope
I’m not that insane to put a 30mm guide scope on the rc6 lol
I’ve been warned by Proxisky mount owners and the man himself to not use a 30mm guide scope with the Ragdoll. So I figured I’d buy a 60mm guide scope
I’m going to test the 30mm and 60mm see how it’ll affect guiding
How much focal length does it have
Thats a lot more promising.
You want to find some way to get the guide scope attached that doesn't involve a single attachment point.
Say a finder shoe with a single thumb screw
240mm
That might work.
You may want to bolt the guide scope directly to the top dovetail if possible.
Oh BTW, does that guide scope use a set of rings?
Yea
Or is it rigidly attached
why not
Like I said above, those rings will cause flexture
Theyre a failure point in the rigidity of the guide set up
There’s a plugin on NINA that might help
Flexure Correction
Oh it was abandoned. Now it’s Flexure Compensator
You are completely on your own if you give that a shot
I can't entirely recommend it.
Worst case, you learn the hard way.
Experimentation is good
Do you think I could use those rings and screw them into a vixen bar?
Probably
I have it
They are rigid
Something I wish I did with my RC6 was get a losmandy dovetail to attach it to my mount more securely.
Whooptie told me multiple times that they are not.
so what should I do
don’t have the money for a good OAG
What if you jam it with electrical tape 
Just went to feel mine again
Zero wobble at the rings, actually not a lot of wobble at the camera side tube but still easily noticeable
Was remembering it as worse than it is
tape it
also the helical focuser it has is very weird to use
autocorrect
sometimes when i turn it the whole tube twists, other times it works fine
but either way it is much better than my skywatcher heritage focuser was
Anything is though
don’t have to tell me twice lmao
Il be using the rc6 for planetary instead of the heritage
Ik i mean the sv106
painfully yes
abberations are worse than an sv48p
oh i never said it was good, very much the opposite
lemme find some
all of them are like 2 minute processes btw i never spent much time processing or put much int time into any of these
heres one
Also you guys dont seem to be aware of how much flex needs to happen before a desync in guiding and the imaging camera occurs.
It's on the order of 1 or 2 microns
Something that feels solid and looks solid by eye can easily move that much without you being able to tell.
That's why something like a finder shoe to attach a guide scope on a high focal length imaging system is inadvisable.
Doesn't matter how tight you make the tbumbscrew or screws, it will still move.
That small of a movement is only noticable because of the focal length of the main scope.
in the full moon, incase you wanted more painful images callo
To make matters worse, the effects of this desync are made even worse when you can't align the guide scope to the same position in the sky as the main scope/camera, which is not unlikely in this scenario.
you can
its pretty easy with the rings
maybe
didnt know it was that precise but i did know the sv106 wobble was way too much anyways
Well, it is.
To have a guide scope suspended in rings like that, makes it really easy to hit that margin.
i havent seen what whooptie said about his but for me the rings have never been the issue
Cause he mostly talks in broken biscuits 
That's where he has yelled at me several times before for using a guide scope at all.
he would drop dead if he saw that i used to image with it
mine has a single attetchment point lmao
exactly this
but i dont have any other option

so what should I do
cancel the guide scope order?
Use my 30mm?
I can’t afford an OAG
If i were to guide with a guide scope mainly, id get one that doesnt use rings, and bolt it straight to the dovetail on the top of my scope
wdym bolt it to the dovetail on top of the scope
I got a dovetail on the top of my RC
Just about all closed tube RC's do
Oh right
I was going to say ask Nokk what he is using but he has an OAG as well.
See if you can get any body to recommend a better made guide scope
50 to 60 mm
Preferably 200 mm or more in focal length.
240 mm is about 5.77x worse than the RC
It would be best if you can get more but this is a place that a tight budget is unforgiving in.
maybe just use the 71f until you do have the money for an oag
I’m being told the ragdoll needs a larger guide scope than 30 to get decent guiding
What’s the best cheap oag
I used the ZWO OAG
The small one
For a while
I think that's the cheapest possible one
You can try to secure one used though
They go for super cheap, second hand
This one?
someone in my Astro club said he’d give me one with an upgraded focuser
Yes
Hit em up
Yea someone in my Astro club upgraded his OAG since it wouldn’t fit his CAA I guess.
Due to my schedule it’s hard to meet unfortunately
Our club has a star party Saturday where he said he could give it to me. Of course I work

He's not going to try to make you buy it off him?
Also yeah that OAG wont work with a rotator lol
Makes sense that he cant use it
no free
he’s nice
He’s the one who sold me the 533mc pro, filter drawer, and l-enhance for $450
Clutch
It's definitely not the best OAG just because the prism is small but it is robust and gets the job done
The nice thing is
You can expose for as long as you want with an OAG
So long as your guide settings are good for your mount.
i loathed this oag when i had it
tilt central
well free is free
I have a tilt plate
idk how to use it
but i got one
@harsh matrix will messing with the tilt plate make me need to redo collimation
Yes unfortunately
Honestly if that focuser uses set screws or a compression ring to secure the camera, that will induce some level of tilt and collimation error on its own.
So unless you see a consistent amount of tilt in a consistent direction, I wouldnt touch it.
Its way too much of a headache because you cant set it once and forget about it.
Wow, I missed a lot:)
@digital nexus thats funny, I actually placed an order for 60mm f4 guide scope on ebay today
Currently using 30mm f4, but running my rc6 with a reducer
Have you considered the diffraction limit of that guidescope?
Sounds Like touptek 533 Set to me 😉
Get a guidescope from touptek 🤣 200+mm
this is the best guidescope 
what the helly
Day ω of asking GSO to make a 4.5" RC
I would buy one instantly if it dropped, financial consequences be damned
@harsh matrix maybe we were wrong about "CO" modulation...is it caused by the baffles?
I don't have baffles. 
no
I get it on my quattro to
that doesnt have baffles
also keyword at the very top there
"Fast"
RC's aren't fast

Add the CO plus the circular aperture, and you get rings
hmm it's 3 AM maybe I should either read or sleep
Why his stars are so elongated? 💀
coma
Then I consider the results null
ÒωÓ
GSO 
I got them on my sct as Well and it also didnt have baffles
that is why you do not image with an $80 guidescope
my guidescope chipper and takes better images >:3
that a classy cassy
And the RCT isn't a cassegrain?
looks airydisk
theres a humungus diff between a cc and an rct :/
Yeah... but their similarities are that both of them are cassegrain designs
Telescopi Italiani is apparently extremely peak
And also extremely pricy
A higher price does no necessarily mean higher quality.
-ZWO
soo
you are saying
that
anyone who wants an RC8
might aswell get a C8
because theyre both cassegrains?
🗿
Well... the C8 is a Schmidt Cassegrain. Big hunk of glass in front. But the difference between Classical cassegrain and RCT is quite small. Different mirror designs if I recall correctly
The C8 uses spherical mirrors which is the yackiest thing ever.
Classical cassegrain uses a combination of parabolic and hyperbolic
And the RCT uses Hyperbolic mirrors. So the difference between the Classical cassegrain and RCT is the secondary mirror.
classic cassegrains have a parabolic primary
Yes
and a hyperbolic secondary
That's why I said Parabolic and Hyperbolic in that sequence
Ah... my bad
Got confused for a sec. 🤣
We all make mistakes 
@harsh matrix @frosty shard
the rc I bought comes with a tri bahtinov mask with a partial mask for Collimation. Does that work with the DSI method? What’s it do
It has arrived
jee ess oo
free diffraction spikes
Gonna look sick on images
@frosty shard geem ir onion
Finally able to image after so much time 😭
smaller and slower probably
It's a lanthanide?
What
landslide????
Lanthanides have unfilled 4f orbitals
ahh
how is the weather outlook in your parts?:)
semi clear tomorrow
And Sunday
thats nice, there is nothing worse than not being able to use your new gear
I had to wait over a week when I got my 2600MC to take it out
I’m not using the rc6 tomorrow
Not smart
Smart move. Then it'll only cloud up the night you actually plan to take it out
Well I have no idea how guiding will be on the ragdoll
And il be using a 30mm guide scope.
It works for me on my inferior mount
I’ve been told it’s not enough with the ragdoll
that I dont know
I ordered 60mm F4 guide scope. So technically I should be expecting worse guiding numbers now, with doubling the FL to 240mm?
What? Why
With an RC? More FL will help
@harsh matrix The 130PDS is back in business

I might be wrong, but I thought that as you increase FL you also increase a demand on a mount precision
Not for guiding
Guiding needs more FL if your main scope has a lot
spell "coma"
an f/4 RC might not be terrible tbh
good to know, I thought it applies to guiding as well
i made a "coma corrector" but now its got some suspicious shaped aberation
heres with it focused better
That suspicious shaped aberration appears to be...more coma
massive barlow 
heres an f2 rct
i cba to figure out how to use the fixer tool with mirrors lol
amazing
I love when that happens
its so kind
How do I find backfocus
You read the instructions for your coma corrector of field flattener, and you combine adapters to reach that length. In most cases is just 55mm backfocus for most coma correctors and field flatteners
ok that doesn’t help
I don’t have either of those
Then what do you need backfocus for?
To reach focus?
I don’t know how backfocus works: I bought a petzval to avoid it. And now I have this rc6
If you dont use reducer, you dont worry about backfocus length
This is all you got? Didnt come with these?
