#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 22 of 1
Ive heard people ask about those before but I havent heard much about how well they work
you got it?
I bought it
What i can say is it looks to be built like an absolute tank
based
He ships it Monday
TS 2.5" Rack and Pinion Focuser for Telescope Self-Construction and Telescope Upgrade This focuser is superior to conventional Crayford focusers because bearings and adjustment are decoupled from each other. This allows a sensitive adjustment with a good bearing arrangement, even with maximum load. Rack And Pinion Adju
Another link
How’d you know it’s made for the rc?
People talk about whether or not they should buy these for their RC's all the time
Also it is M90
Same thread used by the stock focusers and all of the extension tubes that come with the scope
spikey
tri-Bahtinov mask
didn't have opportunity to test on a denser star-field, does it look collimated enough?
uhhh
maybe?
Nope
Looks good at a glance but you'd need to crop in on stars in the middle before I could tell you definitively.
@harsh matrix You decoupled your RC? how did you do that
I bought a new decoupler design from TS Optics, I had to drill holes in the aluminum back plate
There are no decouplers available to the RC6, to my knowledge
I found a 3d printed one
I could prob get that made in metal ?
==== THIS IS BETA VERION, MAY NOT FIT PROPERLY ====Decoupler for GSO RC to reduce drag on mirror cell. Usable for heavy load image train. Prevents decollimation when telescope position change.Steps to install:1) dissasemble back plate and remove primary mirror;2) reset primary mirror collimation screws;3) put centering cap;4) put decoupler on ce...
Maybe?
either way not sure im comfortable drilling holes
somebody on CN does it for people i think
Yes
I dont believe he makes one for the 6 but I could be mistake
I wasnt comfortable drilling holes either but I did it
Like I said, its not really necessary for a light OSC setup
somebody with a 2600mc / filter drawer had problems
idk if youd consider that light or not
I wouldnt call that light
bro why is it so ugly
@frosty shard the seeing at Starfront is equivalent to mine
I dont believe i can afford a pier there, right now, but if I can nail a good job, I would be able to do it.
That would be where the RC8 goes
It is by far my most ironed out rig with the least amount of issues (it did perform quite poorly last night, worried polar alignment slipped, not something worse, could have been wind too)
i would definitely get a rotator if you send it out there
...and go personally for the install too so you can make sure stuff is right
I plan to do that
I am thinking that is necessary too
heh if you have space and they allow it, bring the Dob too and enjoy the dark sky
Back focus is going to be hard
That would be fun asf
i know a guy who has a svx90t there and, a few things:
a) no rotator so they had to manually set the rotation, took them a couple tries (it slipped though so he needs them to redo it now)
b) a cable got unplugged and it took them 3 days to get to it
i've heard the cable management they do there is awful 
so yeah.
I have heard that too
That's a reason id like to go in person to drop it off and watch set up
yea
I would like to figure out a permanent cable management set up too.
i would too, even though i'm halfway across the country yk
Probably need to relocate the mini PC and get a power box that is remote controllable too.
this
the wanderer plus is a good value imo
software is nice, comes with a temperature sensor too
I forgot about the wanderer stuff till I saw a flat panel on CN that is 250 mm for 350 bucks
Very good value as far as large flat panels are concerned.
agreed
Yeah so I got some more things to solve with the RC8 then
i'm wanting a couple rotators for my 102s just so i dont need to turn the entire focuser
I think i need to include the dew shield too

I dont trust no dew shield there, where I cant fix dew problems if any arise
will let me not have a headache with my cables every time i change rotation, since my powerbox is on the focuser (finder shoes)
yea that too
Hmmmm
I forgot that cables can twist and stuff with a rotator
the temp sensor on the wanderer box does humidity + dew points
I need to heavily invest in cable management
Figure out something that works remotely
usually if you restrict it to like, 180 degrees it's fine
Thats what im thinking
can't do more than that on my scopes anyway because of my gigantic efw
Dont need to go more than that for any reason
could also fix this by mounting my power box on the handle under my minipc but ehhh
this lets my cable management be cleaner, so i'll cope
(...and rotators are just a QOL improvement in general)
yea. the wanderer empire application makes setting the mechanical zero position & setting a rotation limit (from the zero position) pretty easy
it'll usually convert rotations if they're outside your range too
@digital nexus congrats witha new scope!
thank you
if you want it i have the M54 one that i probably wont use because my SV070T has a wonky reducer
Hell yeah

the main reason i got it is because the moonlite is awful with rotating but i'm replacing it anyway
so that's a non-issue now
I need M56
😭
Also how would I use that with a reducer?
I have limited back space
Back focus
Man why couldn't GSO focusers have M54 threads
Yeah id have to get an adapter, that's fine
i'd personally do rotator -> reducer -> camera train
that's what im gonna do with my 102s but with the native flattener
that way it won't add to the backfocus
it'll just shift your focus position by like, 10ish mm
Ah but I have camera <- AFW <- OAG < - reducer and I am 0.5 mm too far out of back focus as is with no way to collapse it down further
If the rotator consumes any back focus, I cant use a reducer
I have about 40 mm of back focus to work with
Reducer is too long to thread onto the rotator
Yes
bruh
I wont be able to reach focus otherwise
hate that, my sv70t is the same way
Because of the decoupler
It barely reached focus with the reducer threaded onto the focuser before I decoupled everything
I was reaching focus with the focuser like 5 mm out
Max
damn
It's extremely tight with this reducer.
Maybe I could get a 0.8x reducer/flattener?
yeah i wont be able to reduce with the rotator on my 102s
not bc of focus distance, but since the threads are so gargantuan
Since I dont need as much speed under those skies?
yea maybe
A 0.8x reducer/flattener shouldnt consume as much back focus i dont think
i dont think it should
Alright
Great
More things to buy probably 
Im not terribly upset about that idea because the Apex-L creates vignetting that doesnt correct
It interferes with every other aspect of taking flats too
damn
I had perfect flats and perfect stacked lights when I did RGB and SHO at native
That's about the only other factor I can blame.
yea its bascially the same feeling with my reducers, tilt is fine with my native flatteners but it's a PITA with the reducers
meanwhile, this is an actual image of me waiting for an imaging project to finish at f/8
I eliminated my tilt 
Real
i can't be bothered to fiddle with it on my reducers tbh
Thats why it took me >60 hours to do fish head
especially when it's perfect on my native ones
Thats just weird
basically this but f/7 lmao
I'm all in it for the sharpness and zero chromatic aberration so it's a sacrifice I'm willing to make
agreed
my fracs quiver when they hear UV imaging
-# the glorious Ritchey–Chrétien calls
my seeing is more ass than vel's LMAO
I mean mine's not great either
but on the other hand, when it is great, I take full advantage of it
Some of my IC 10 data is utterly ridiculous
FWHMs of like 1.7"
I managed to stay at a dark site all night when the seeing said "yes."
I have not repeated that since
Oh BTW for reference, all of my images from and prior to May of this year, back to October of last year, were shot at 0.8x reduction across both scopes.
I had to add a 25 mm spacer or so
Which if I use a rotator, and I get a 0.8x reducer, gives me about 10 mm of focuser travel assuming I thread the reducer onto it.
Do I need anything to collimate the rc6
'tis pain
Also threading the imaging train onto something gives me more confidence than simply putting the imaging train on there purely by compression, long term specifically.
Absolutely not
Maybe software
But no hardware
Lasers are useless
Nothing other than hex keys (I do recommend using hex keys over a hex screwdriver just for clearance around the focuser extension if you adjust the primary)
yea i think i've gotten down to like, about 1.5-1.6"
i think i've had sub-2" seeing on only 2-3 occasions
So the 3 side screws?
I wonder what hex key il need
For the secondary a hex key or screwdriver is fine, there's no clearance issues
2.5 and 3 mm for the push-pull screws I believe
I haven’t seen the back of the scope
I think 3.5 mm for the secondary, it might be 4
A little annoying you need different sizes like that
How does the hex keys work on the secondary, like do I need to loosen one side before turning another?
Normally I feel it out
I dont try to worry about any particular methodology beyond making sure my final adjustments are all tightening.
The back of the RC6 will look similar
The adjustment screws are paired around the focuser extension
il have to be careful with how long that is. I don’t have a pier
Oh @undone sedge I lied
A 0.8x reducer should add about 75 mm of back focus
That is more than enough to compensate for the issue I currently have.
That will work for sure
From the DSI method document
As long as the flattener part doesnt have to consume back focus
Thats what it looks like
Although the 6 interacted differently with reduction vs this 8
Is that for the back only…?

Yes, the front (secondary) is just tighten/loosen, pretty straightforward
I can do it better
The seller said he had the primary collimated and never touched it again. So I’m hoping il just need to mess with the secondary
Hopefully it’ll be good when it arrives actually
I’m doubtful though
FedEx and other shipping services aren’t known for their careful handling of scopes….
- Adjust the tilt of the primary mirror to eliminate coma - in the camera preview look at a defocused star and try to get the star to look evenly illuminated on all sides
- Once coma is eliminated, adjust the secondary mirror to eliminate off-axis astigmatism. You'll need to compare stars at different points in the field, but you want the ones on the edges to be oval and pointing towards the center
- Keep doing this until the field is nice and even
This is what nulling coma looks like
Here's what unbalanced astigmatism looks like
What software will help with this
and that's the goal with the secondary adjustments
@harsh matrix you recommend MetaGuide right?
(It's free)
That dsi doc said I had to align the top of the camera sensor?
How do I know what’s the top
That and Sharpcap
Actually
You cant use metaguide with an OSC cam
Disregard that
fun
Yeah Metaguide bricked my ZWO 533MC Pro drivers
Bruh what
I thought it killed the camera for a while
ok so never install metaguide got it
What does sharp cap help with
capping, sharply
You can view your collimation adjustments live.
Also planetary
I collimate with sharpcap primarily
Metaguide is more useful when the scope is coupled.
Oh for the RC6, if that guy got the primary nailed down, I would never touch it again tbh
You can get away with exclusively adjusting the secondary
It's much easier to do it that way as well.
thats what he said so il take his word for it
this is what he said
actually maybe this means he didnt have it collimated?
Well he did collimate it before so maybe its good... idk
GSO RCs do hold their collimation extremely well
that might be the first pro ive heard
Lol
They also have some incredibly well figured mirrors
oh yea AI coating LMAO
Their newt mirrors are hit and miss, often outright bad but their RC mirrors are crazy good
I wasnt talking about the coatings
Im near certain they've been upgraded to some quartz hybrid thing now
Thats all besides the point
" Primary mirror: Hyperbolic primary mirror with enhanced Al coating to 95% reflectivity, with protective quartz layer
Secondary mirror: Hyperbolic with enhanced Al coating to 95% reflectivity; protective quartz layer; O.D. of secondary cell is 3” "
I was talking strehl
Bruh
Yup
The Strehl ratio defines how close to optically perfect a mirror is
1.00 being perfect and 0 being the absolute worst
GSO RC mirrors have a minimum strehl of 0.9
@frosty shard and I have mirrors with strehls that are likely much higher than that
I estimate 1/10 wave or less RMS error
at least on-axis
tested through visual inspection of aberrations with a high powered eyepiece
Have you used your RC for visual?
Briefly
It gave me the sharpest view of the moon i have ever seen
lunar gonna be sick
Duuuuude
i heard contrast is poor cause the obstruction, did you notice that>?
It's a hit to contrast in planetary viewing, but not to the point I'd consider it bad at all
For DSOs, wide fields, and large exit pupils, the CO is way less relevant
My RC6 did this
im gonna put my 2x barlow and planetary cam in and see what i get lol
Do it
Deconvolution will restore much of your resolution
It is going to be a banger
I never done a serious attempt at Lunar
this will be great
I dont need guiding right?
Nope
Nah not for planetary
All you have to do is keep an eye on drift and make sure it doesnt move out of your fov
DSOs are going to be hit or miss until i figure out how im going to guide. Glad I can do planetary
How does collimation affect lunar/planets
I used my RC extensively for exploring Virgo and Coma Berenices for galaxy season, and it goes so hard
Funny you ask this
the ragdoll gonna be sick for visual. I hated using my dob cause i had no idea how to find stuff 💀
So one of the reasons why RCs have a bad reputation with collimation is that you need to check off-axis stars for astigmatism. The reason you have to do this is because if you null out coma across the field, you also null astigmatism in the center
That is actually a good thing for planetary
Because as long as it looks reasonably collimated, it is
(This is not true for the moon just because it's much larger of course)
But for small targets like planets (and perhaps even planetary nebulae) you actually don't have to worry very much
I am very interested to know how it works for visual, since I got my Wave 150i in part because it has visual users in mind
If the Ragdoll checks out for visual I'll definitely get one as a secondary mount in the future
The ragdoll has an alt az mode
I want to use Go-To, so im not sure how im going to do that accurately.
my current thought is to temporarily have my 533 in the scope,. plate solve in NINA and use that for Go-To
i dont want to find stuff lol
I only ever use EQ mode for visual
it seems to be a pain changing from EQ to ALT AZ mode so im prob not going to
and actually I was testing this out with another member of the local astronomy club who hooked up his guide scope to NINA and used it to plate solve across the sky
It works really well
The only reason I don't do this is because I keep my visual configuration very simple and lightweight
fast setup/takedown so I can catch a bus home lmao
oh crap
yea i could use the guide scope/cam
thats genius
Itll be a bit awkard if im doing it with the RC but it could work
also don't just take our word for RCs being good for visual, ask the 1000+ people who have looked through my scope lol
ok to be fair though
95% of those people dont know the basics of astro
its easy to impress people lol
That is true, I'm just here to make as many people into RC enjoyers as I possibly can
This has been my most successful lunar image
So as you see, I haven’t done it in a while
Oh buddy. You're gonna knock your socks off with the RC6
Wanna guess what i used to take that?
frankly its impressive for what i used lol
Did you use a phone camera
yep phone
I used 25x70 binos with my phone cam held up to it LOL
Actually even more impressive
Tbh I'll never stop doing smartphone astrophotography just because it's a fun challenge
This is actually probably my best lunar
this was Askar and DSLR
ignore compression
id have used my 533 but i didnt own it when the eclipse happened
Though humble, this is my favorite smartphone capture
That's M82 and its massive H-II region is actually visible in the image
that is impressive
I was not expecting my phone to pick that up
with a 5" SCT as well
I mean visually my 5" SCT is pretty good but the RC8 blows it out of the water
Im not sure if il prefer my 6" dob or RC6 for visual
Probably the RC6 simply because the dob has a crappy helical focuser and only one vixen dovetail
RC6 + 2x Barlow + sv305 pro.
Gonna be one hell of a lunar FOV.
28” cdk is cheating tho
Ohh yeah that's definitely cheating lmao
RC + 533
Literally perfect
Now I want to get an adapter and try to take a smartphone image of the Orion Nebula with the RC
Unfortunately with the 8" I'm limited in field with a 533
thats some crazy detail though
And I'm limited by having a mono cam 
ew
The problem isn't even having a mono cam! It's that most software for stacking sucks and doesn't have a nice way of handling mono image registration
I need to write my own software to do it
I have 16 GB of lunar frames sitting here doing nothing
so at this point, im probably limited by seeing?
Yup, lucky imaging is the way here
is seeing something i actually have to worry about now? omg
huge milestone
the RC also makes my astro spending a total of $5,000 now
Have you built a mosaic in SIRIL before btw?
no
Ive only tried a mosaic once, m31, and my mount killed itself
those subs are gone too
never even opened them up
Gone with my mini pc
along with 10 hours of my m31 project
:/
I was setting up to get some more M31 data
i was all done setting up
tried to turn on my mini pc
nothing happened
it just died
in theory i can recover the data
its just a hassle since i dont have any extra headers and itll be a pain to power it
i got a new mini pc though
@harsh matrix figured it out it was in the synscan software a a altitude limit so i just saw it in nina ascom error
anyways
ah
@undone sedge i may just not shoot reduced
this guy on instagram, astroyyc, is shooting with an RC8 from there
unreduced
he's getting incredible results
work in progress only 1hr ha, 1hr each channel
gonna really commit to m31
looked at his atrbin
i would say you are better
i am highly doubtful
yea tbh there’s a certain point of low lp that shooting native can be just as good as shooting reduced in the city
i worry about doing f/7 from my b6/7 house but idk if i’ll ever image from my house again after what happened back in august
i just don’t trust the suburbs nowadays
Redid the denoising with my own TGVDenoise implementation
Finally it is working 😭😭
rct
What does that mean? 😅
Ritchey Chretien Telescope
Okay I know why
I asked him about what he thinks about his experience
He said the one thing is is disappointed with is how long it is taking the staff to learn the ropes, regarding collimation.
Their methods have been pretty slow and inaccurate, but improved since Spring of this year.
Basically, theyre not great at collimating them RC's
But theyre getting better
Most likely his images are collimation limited and he has been unable to take full advantage of the seeing
Like me he dialed in his collimation to the point of perfection
And the staff doesnt quite do that 
Ah ok makes since his m16 was rc6 level so I was a little confused
Staff?
Like he has his on a dark sky sight thing
@undone sedge like me, this astroyyc guy on IG found out that a rotator isnt going to work when using a reducer
He also imaged with a reducer from home but found he couldn't make one work with a rotator
Instead he opted to shoot at native, which the dark skies there allows the tradeoff to be worth it.
He said the data on a new moon at f/8 is very much worth it.
I could definitely make Starfront work right now, actually. 
I just need to be more disciplined with how I spend my time and money. 
And not be financially irresponsible
(Tbf all purchases, both necessary and unnecessary have already been made)
I havent bought a new piece of gear in a while, only a mini PC
I need an actual sleep schedule too so im not as tired 
Actually it would probably be a good thing for me to do because it will force me to get my act together 
real
even the german craigslist is sending me notifications to buy the RC8
you need get it then, smh
why would you go starfront?
Because I don't have frequent access to dark skies
And I can afford a lite pier there
I cant afford any other site.
oof
I didn't know Kleinanzeigen is considered as creepy as Craigslist
5
$600 for a wanderer astro flat panel

rotator is $400
power box is $300
looking at spending another $1300 before tax
i dont know how much tax will be and where to buy these so i dont get tariffed

astroflation+usflation in one doesnt sound fun
are you already having regrets 😭
more like a 6
light leaks make the scope more annoying to use than any of the quirks of the scope itself
damn how do I know if il have that issue
Its almost a guarantee
Light leaks around the drawtube of the focuser
and how can I prevent it
Basically every focuser ever has a gap around the draw tube
Either do what Cuiv did and plug it up with tape or make a more elegant thing like i did
what’s your elegant thing
I made a little fabric cuff to go around the drawtube to stop any light reflecting up through the gap
I dont think it is flawless and it needs some work to be there 100%
Do you have a video on how cuiv does it
I’m gonna be afraid of where I can tape, don’t wanna mess up focuser
nope
found it
Light leaks in the equipment is something I haven't been aware of enough - but it is critical when in a zone with lots of artificial lights outside. Yet another challenge to deal with! In this video, I find and fix all the light leaks in my setup! It's not pretty, but it works!
My Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cuivlazygeek/
My Facebook p...
maybe
Get the Gemini
AAAA
focuser blamket :3
Stuck at a bus stop instead of doing outreach
(it's game day so the buses are packed)
oh god
yello reflectiv jaket :3
i wonder how a ceramic secondary holder would be
like yea, easier to break
but the less thermal expansion

What rig do you have in there
So for the RC6, how long will my imaging train be? How many adapters am I gonna need?
I’m still confused on the backfocus stuff
you should have enough adapters
I’m not worried about that; I’m wondering how many il need
Because I’d rather not have a really long imaging train.
i think its 1 to 2
I don’t have a pier so a collision could happen
i risk collisions too :/
which is one of the big reasons i want a moar compact guy
-# other than it looking cute
My only rig, the RC8
What mount
I’m being told I shouldn’t use my sv305 pro and 2x Barlow
It’s too much?
woaw
imo, do whatever you want 
The max Barlow i should use is 1.5x I guess. But with my 533 I can use 2x
i think the main issue is probably reduced levels of light
yeasoundaboutright
smoller pixels and that
you would need a biig picjel sensor to barlow moew
i want a chonky pixel sensor
like a 9um
or something
Yes that
longer exposure = more blur
I can answer that for him. He has the SkyWatcher WAVE 150i
an exercise in futility
I call this the Christmas Tree Light Nebula
Also update, I did end up doing outreach until I got clouded out with a totally clear forecast
I also gave someone material for a journalism class project
It might end up being a story in the campus newspaper
It’s the closest comparison I got
How much?
I HAVE A RC6 ITS LIGHT WORK
No light leaks
Little to no tilt
Ez collinate
And you can get ccdt67 reducer
I have all stock focused
But I never had any 
Why don’t I believe you 🙁
Even ask veloren
He’s been through it all with me
I was super scared to collimate then it was like oh this is easy
@digital nexus
This was early this year I have a different camera now
For this I had every single sub had star trails bc I sucked
But man it still came out great
What cam and how are you guiding
This was asi533mc pro
And I had a oag with a baddd sensor a asi120mm
Was that with a reducer?
As Long as u dont get a laser to rely on its quite okay
I tried with one and i couldnt get it to Work properly for the life of me
I have an eyepiece now and do it with it and the dsi Methode,its fairly simple
@frosty shard should i get a 9um pixel sensor for the sillies
I’m not worried about Collimation mostly
I’m worried about light leaks, the coupled primary mirror, and guiding lol
No
Ooop my bad
Well I’m kinda worried abt it
But more abt the other stuff
Did u buy it already?
Id wait Till u have it and then you will see what Problems U Encounter
But dont make youself too crazy with thinking about them already
I’m still confused on this dsi method tbh
I need a video lol
Its pretty confusing at First
Ive Not found any Videos about that Method so far, otherwhise it would be Here in this channel
Couples if I remember right causes astigmatism? It’s only if you have a super heavy back
So you use the camera, defocus. Just like a star test
And I have a asi585mm pro 7x filter wheel “full” btw and a oag and I’m chilling
Never had a light leak
Yep all of it
which rc6 do you have
Astro tech
Which one did you buy
I mean they are all kinda gso rebrands so same same
Unless you go carbon
I have a lot of changes but this is my last photo
Btw don’t ever get a carbon fiber tripod
Like ever
At least the zwo one
I bought the zwo one
533
Oh nvm
what
Since it’s carbon fiber it has more flex and it causes isolations. Me and veloren tried it. It’s just your guiding will have long drifts let’s say from .40-1.00
But you are wide enough you will be fine
585 sensor is small
I heard adding counterweights or actually any weights into the bag helps
Yeah dude that with a 20 pound counter weight
I never had to with my gti
I had a gti
when i get my rc we all gonna be matching 
you dont live in an area with light pollution that is all that bad
i am willing to be that with the moon out, you have problems in broadband
Ohhhhhhh yeah yeah yeah your right
Real 
@harsh matrix So the RC6 comes with the GSO Focuser, and that TS optics focuser. Will the additional GSO focuser tilt plate work with the TS optics one?
amma get a carbonfiber one >:3
Yes
yeah, i dont even have neighbors with lights on all night and the leak is bad enough, when uncontained, that i get useless data
that's how much light comes out of the sky even when it is perfectly clear

my neighborhood is actually beginning to replace old lamp bulbs with bulbs that have little hats that aim the light down at the ground
that surprised me
unfortunately they alone cannot reduce my light pollution by enough to be noticeable right now 
What bortle are you?
8
im mid 5
Should I spray paint the rc6
No, paint makes it heavier smh
You're sacrificing too much resolution IMO
when i use my rc6 in the cold what do i need to keep in mind?
Tomorrow I can finally use it for the first time
I would vinyl wrap it tbh
That needs a heat gun right?
Id go crazy if I left a wrinkle lol
It does...but at least it's reversible
Hair dryer work?
what fl would make it optimal? (with an unreduced rc6 it predicted to be okay)
I mean, it's a joke but it's also true lol
I haven't done it myself...it looks like you can do it in a pinch with a hair dryer but for best results you do want a proper heat gun
I mean it's more about f/ratio than focal length, but I'd prefer to have something like 5 or 6 um pixels
ah
You could of course drizzle to get the resolution back
I'm fairly certain that drizzling decreases SNR, specifically drizzle-n implies n^2 less SNR. I could be wrong.
It definitely depends on the drizzle method and parameters too
truew
drizzle reduces snr yes
but that would just make it in line with the 5-6um pixels snr
flip

i have a 1cm pixel
i have a ldr
big pixel sensor fr
gonna do astro like a radioscope
Color transform of my Heart Nebula data
Debating whether to start getting S-II data or continue with the H-alpha and O-III
The only issue is that battery capacity is now a limitation
pibk
Hbeta
get geem
I don't have an H-beta filter
I do but I don't want to shoot broadband from home
I actually was thinking though, the Statue of Liberty and NGC 3603 are both fantastic targets for H-alpha/H-beta
Because they have very different levels of dust extinction despite being next to each other in the sky
arent hbeta and halpha same structure?
(NGC 3603 is like 3x farther)
Yup but NGC 3603 is reddened by dust
ah
It would be very evident in that nebula pair
Anyone got a target in mind for the nebula comp?
use a 5x barlow and image an emission neb in a diff galaxy 
Unironically one of my ideas
NGC206 in RGB HOO
There's some great nebulae in that region
hi fellow RC enjoyers
i have a questionm
im planning a purchase of a 16" RC soon
and i have a big question
how do u collimate an RC? i have catseye for my newt but theres no way i can use that on a RC right?
holy crap
- DSI method.
- DSI method.
- DSI method.
- DSI method
I could keep going
Do not even bother with a laser or Cheshire unless it's way out of whack
They do not give you the precision needed to get proper collimation
exactly
EXACTLY
no way im going for a laser
i had it for a bit on my newt and it was terrible
@tight lodge did you say gemini flat panel?
who said gemini?
this doesnt look like it has a hinge
Collimating on a star is always the way to go. You might lose some imaging time but it's a worthy sacrifice
is there a method, im not sure how do you determine secondary and primary error
this seems complicated as shit
i need to read it a few more times
tl;dr:
- Null coma across the field by adjusting the primary mirror tilt
- Balance astigmatism across the field (not just in the center) by adjusting the secondary mirror tilt
- Repeat until the procedure converges on collimation
well the procedure itself isnt that bad
i just feel like
i wont be able to spot the tiny star errors
If you get it soon: I recommend using Mirfak as your collimation star, because it's surrounded by its cluster and you can survey the whole field
If you're using NINA the aberration inspector comes in handy
bruh ive read it 3 times and im confused too lol
16” RC tho? Do you have an observatory?
What r u putting it on
i can carry it its fine
CQ350
How much does it weigh
which im aslo gonna have to get
Isn’t the payload capacity of ur mount 35kgs
thats for photography
visual is 40
i have fit many
oh so ur doing visual?
ok
over the weight limit
on my EQ6
its gonna work
or im gonna get a GSO one but idk
it is lighter by a few kg but
im worried about the quality
we will see
i still have to think this through soon
Not the big ones but any that are smaller than about 12" are GSO
I've posted many messages about the scope my club has that I've spent about 3 years trying to get working. I'm in Wisconsin and the cold weather seems to have contracted the screws locking the primary mirror and screwed up the collimation that I finally think I fixed last summer. Finally, a clear night tonight so I hoped to make a small adjustment to the primary and try some imaging.
Nope. The mirror is a mess again and I've tried the DSI Method again, but no matter what I try I've never been able to get that to work. I make sure the camera is oriented with the scope properly so I tighten the bright side of the star, but once I center it again I see no change.
Our club president suggested at a recent board meeting maybe we should get a different scope. I thought I had it figured out and said I want to give it another chance, but after tonight I'm ready to get rid of this thing. I've spent 3 years, probably well over 100 hours, Takahashi scope, Glatter laser, software, a new focuser....etc. and this thing still kicks me.
I had plans of being well into doing online public outreach, let kids control the scope through the internet, and a lot of interactive things online and in person. I've gotten nowhere with my ideas thanks to the collimating pain.
this is what a guy wrote about the GSO one
which makes me question it a lot
Do you know where in Wisconsin? (I live in Madison...)
I may offer to help this user out
its a blog from 2022
but i will drop the link hold on
i wish i had proper dark skies here
im boutta send my RC8 to Starfront
I wonder how cold it got for the screws to contract damn
sick of bortle 8 
must have been really really cold
i have heard people that regret that
idk for me it would be a dealbreaker
soo note to self. Don’t use the rc when it’s negative outside ok
cause its just not it
its cool and all u have clean data
but
its taken on the other side of the world
sending your scope away doesn’t seem like the same experience
yea you get data, but not the experience
Not the process of setting up
i would miss the option to say that THIS image was taken from my backyard
yep
I do dream of having a 16" RC someday, and I debate whether I'd want to send it somewhere remote and get the best astrophotographic data possible, or setting it up permanently at home and being the coolest neighbor ever
home.
Especially since I'd want to do visual with it (and share that with people)
i think im gonna get this one
there is a better option: get two 
2 RC8s vs 1 RC16
I'll always want to have an RC8 in my arsenal, it's such a good all-rounder
I live not too far away from Starfront
i can drive it there and drop it off
im like 5 or 6 hours away tops
id personally not go below 10"
i can pre manage the cables and stuff too
not that bad
or just send a seestar there😭
For the decoupling issues? My rationale for picking an 8" is just that it's grab and go enough that I can take it out for outreach where I live
seriously
no offense)
but what dumbass would send a seestar to starfront
the sensor is gonna destroy the data
i like big scopes
more options ald photons
I mean I wouldn't want it to be my only scope, just my portable all-rounder even if I have a big chungus observatory scope
hell yeah
honestly if ur b8 i get it
im b4 and im getting sick of it
i want darker skies
i guess im too greedy
I shot 31 hours of broadband on M33
from my club's bortle 3 site
it obliterates any and all data i could ever get from home
I genuinely have thought of traveling around the world and bringing my RC around to do visual outreach
and I got that quality of data much faster than had I done it at home
valid
i mean you gather data fast here
in B4
im just worried
its not enough for IFN
and dust
i got this in 2hrs
its not perfect data but it works
it was like 60% moon too
i think if i ever get a big scope ill have to hand make it
45 minutes in B7 (left) vs. 6 minutes in B4 (right)
okay Damn
that is huge
starfront is B1 no?
if i make some good mirrors i think i would genuinely have to give some mirrors to people for less than the manufacturers offer (shipping cost + the amount in materials)
infinitely better than me
yes
i will shoot at native
so i will get bortle 1 speed with full RC8 capability
😰
its all fun and games until the star front seeing becomes diabolical for the next 4 years 
nah
I think even with bad seeing I'd rather be at a B1 site
climate change gunna shift the currents
it will be the same year over year

even if that was the cast, i could get a 0.8x reducer and manage, but id rather not
im directly under the strongest part of the jet stream (above the uk), idk how i actually get good seeing
do you guys have any tips for me to quickly move my mini pc, 533, and filter drawer from my Askar 71f to RC6, and vice versa?
man i wish
europe sucks
we get like 1,5-3" seeing here
sometimes better
but this is average
cause jet streams
give everything a shoe and screw loads of holders for everythig onto each scope for hotswappability
our's goes up to 3" or 3.5" on the worst of nights
I never saw above 4" until I went to that bortle 3 site
that isnt even in the same state as me
mines averaged at 3.5 for the last few days
what dew heater should I get for the rc6
im looking into that rn
but for mine
How do you guys know what your seeing is, how do you know it’s 3 or whatever
i use my fwhm, theres probs a better way
I was recommended this https://www.amazon.com/Dew-Heater-Strip-Telescopes-Instruments/dp/B0FD8ZYMBK/ref=ast_sto_dp_puis
✅ Product Description: Protect your telescope from moisture-related disruptions with the R-Sky Dew Heater Strip for 6” Telescopes. Designed for refractors and compact catadioptric telescopes, this heater delivers even, controlled warmth to prevent dew accumulation on your optics—even on the dampe...
For primary mirror
He uses it on his RC8
i only have issues with the secondary
i saw one guy with this, i go tthe version for the newt and im very happyhttps://www.teleskop-express.de/en/telescope-accessories-5/dewcaps-and-heater-90/altair-secondary-mirror-heater-for-8-10-ritchey-chrtien-telescopes-7326
shouldnt need one for the primary
also, i think my mirrors stickiness is gonna start effecting my images soon
i just got recommended this lol
i need to find a vendor that sells it in the US though
well its a good idea
aint no way im buying from europe again
europe is just cool like that
company
im pretty sure they are european
yeah
btw this is pretty crazy, chroma 8nm vs antlia 3nm comparison, completely off topic but i gotta send it here, scroll down to the gifs
https://www.cloudynights.com/forums/topic/906164-chroma-8nm-ha-5nm-siioiii-vs-antlia-3nm-sho-50mm-round-filters
I messaged the RC6 seller about some stuff.
He said no light leaks ever, no Collimation issue when going to a new altitude.
He did mention some diffraction spike issues due to the way GSO held the primary mirror? It left some black areas on the outer edge of the mirror?
you can mask that
yea he includes a mask for it
I wonder how bad it is tho that he felt the need for a mask
masks are pretty normal on beveled mirrors
bottom part is normal
He said he last collimated it August, and it’s been packaged ever since. Sooo I hope I don’t have to lol
He replaced it with an RC8 so I guess this RC6 didn’t give him a huge issue to stay away from RCs
this is about the worst it gets
this drives some people crazy but i dont even notice it ngl
what’s it look like corrected
my quattro doesnt have anything like this and it actually annoys me
just the 4 main spikes?
yes
do u have it masked
well it should just be 4 spikes
I don’t think it’ll bother me too much, but since i have the mask il just use it
you may have some flaring if your filters are dirty etc.
yes
the quattro is way too controlled for my tastes

it's actually boring
which one u got
how dare u
do u have thicc vanes?
which spider u got
well thats the reason
backyard universe
why they look like that
i got the 250P
the only thing that is stock on it is the tube itself lol
and the mirrors
i guess
and the primary springs
exactly lol
i dont believe he changed the cell either
but uh
after i got the collimation perfect, it hasnt slipped, even slightly
Wait lemme show it to u

looks like this rn
i wish i had pics of the inside
its insanely dark from the flocking
its cause of the spider
the spider holds collimation SO well
its unbeliavable
i think i collimated like 2 months ago, and it still holds very well even though i keep moving the scope
@harsh matrix can u modify a RC in a way u would modify a newt or no?
maybe flocking it?
should I have gotten a Quattro instead

the road to perfecting the quattro is not one for the weak
a GSO RC works out of the box by comparison
it comes with knife edge baffles
not really
not without doing some irreversible damage to things like the primary holding cell
I drilled through it to modify mine

altair has their own store front which is cools
Great!
I wouldnt have the balls to do that
https://telescopes.net/kendrick-gso-rc-telescope-secondary-mirror-heater-fits-shroud-diameter-3.html
Kendrick dew heaters are highly regarded for their exceptional durability and performance, crafted with high-quality components to guarantee reliability in even the toughest conditions. When used with Kendrick's Dew Controller, these heaters can quickly generate additional heat as needed, effectively preventing dew buildup and ensuring that mois...
i was sick of oval stars when collimation and tracking were perfect

frustration will drive you to accomplish anything you wish
it looks like a nosecap
That one requires soldering with the thing already installed
I dont think I'm going to get that
Deep Sky Dad sells a pretty rudimentary one but it should still do the trick.
Also I get that people keep bringing up the "but you wont be getting the data from your backyard anymore" thing but seriously
I already am not much enjoying imaging from home.
I almost burnt out in August because of it.
For one.
For two, I have another rig. 
Im still going to be suffering, but with faster rigs that dont get as negatively impacted as the RC.
Plus, I have almost no access to targets between M31 declination and Horsehead's declination
Here at home, because we have a giant tree that nobody wants to take care of that has eaten up most of my sky.
That means I get almost no access to the galaxies and galaxy clusters I would like to shoot.
Starfront is a way for me to better utilize the RC in the way which I bought it for.
It is crippled here, and it feels bad.
Yes😅
there is not a motorized version for a scope my size
What's the diameter of your tube?
203mm is the diameter of your primary mirror. Most likely the diameter of your tube is 230mm in which case, they do sell flat pannels of that size
they do of that size yes but they dont have a motorized one
unless it isnt available on the sites i looked at


