#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 18 of 1
Not from my inspection. But I stack 32 flats
It might be a good idea for me to do that for broadband tbh
Do what?
Reduce the brightness and add a diffuser
I had that flat overcorrection issue in IR and I do want to be more careful since I may do more broadband mosaics
So far broadband flats are correcting properly, but it can't hurt to just keep a cloth around just in case
@harsh matrix actually how are you doing flats?
Ive been doing sky flats but its not working 100%
Its only working about 95% of the way
Today I used my new tracer panel and turned the brightness way down.
But ended up with heavy undercorrecting across the board.
Oh you just got a panel okay good
Yeah
Very much still learning how to use it.
Use some printer paper to difuse and dim the light. You can use multiple sheets to get the right results
@harsh matrix The stars don't look that bloated ngl
Thats good
Ill consider it
Only problem is, how do I gauge when ive added enough?

You use nina flat wizard with dynamic exposure. Start with 2 sheets of paper.
Oh wait. You're in US. Gemini flat pannels are super OP.
For the first time in my life, I enjoy taking Flats just because of the flat pannel
Wdym, should I get one lol?
The US and China deal. I got my flat pannel from Aliexpress
Does that make it cheaper or what
That makes it more expensive
Also. I'm definitely difraction limited by the IR. Tonight is a bit windy so my RMS was jumping as high as 1" RMS. Between the 0.5" and 1" is literally no difference in sharpness 
💀
Welcome to pain
Small aperture pain

Hey!... it's average
😩
I got to see NGC 604 and NGC 595 in a 12" Dob recently
It's probably doable in your Dob or RC with a nebula filter
biiig spiral nebula
@harsh matrix 
@frosty shard . No IR halos
thats pretty, now beat hubble by adding a healthy amount of Hα 
i'm not done yet. i want more luminance, more colors moooore DATAAA!!
Gooooood 
Did y'all know andromeda has a lil' neighbor? 
i should buy an rct and use it as a teacup
@frosty shard look! A honse!
honse (how many min)
1x600s
honse (10 min)
Not as sharp as I could pull off die to wind. But a monumental difference from the last year
#1024061483757355068 message
HUH
Holy balls
Right? IR brought up so many stars
Very easy with a nebula filter. They're both highly luminous
That it did
That is still surprising to me
anybody remember when my redcat did this?
I have no idea
I'd say yes or at least almost, I guess
a lot of people say you want 3x more lum than color data
you are more than 2x of your green and blue
it made red
i know. but those people don't image in IR as well 😄
I knew thanks to hubble
now i know as well... thanks to the backyard hubble 

Boys... check this out.
Nina messed up the flats last night. So I couldn't calibrate the NIR data
So I took the master Flat from the Luminance channel and applied it to the NIR. It kinda worked 😂
An extremely honsy honse
Thats pretty cool! Started looking for it on my shot, but might be outside of fov, where is it roughly? I found another tiny one though:
Its closer to m110
@high aspen remember when you were flexing with the RC simulation? Behold! A ray traced simulation 
Hello guys, I want to get myself a RC telescope. I was thinking about getting this one. I also already ordered an OAG. My camera is the ToupTek585 would all of this be a good combo?
If I remember correctly, @vapid patio has an RC-6 combined with the 585
6 means 6 inch aperture, right?
Yes
Okay thanks 😁
Yes. 6 inch is 152mm 
It's actually 152.4 
Yeeeeeah… Details 😂
It's actually 152.40mm 
Ooor. 152.400μm
Oooooor. 152 400 000 nm
Oooor 152 400 000 000 pm
If you want to be more efficient in a way of actually gathering more signal, the 8" is the better choice because the central obstruction is smaller in relation to the aperture
0.15m
0.015 dam
*0.152400000000000000000000000
Note that your FOV will be tiny and the 585 is going to be oversampled at native FL, but it's still workable. The 585 also has much better IR quantum efficiency than a 533 if you want to image in that band.
what does oversampled mean in this case`?
The pixels are smaller than the effective spatial resolution of the telescope.
okay, so less details then...
Your effective resolution is going to be limited by optics, guiding, or atmospheric conditions, not sensor pixel pitch.
okay thanks for the help and explaining
You can use techniques like drizzling 2x or downsampling to get a pixel scale that better corresponds with your telescope's resolution. So it's not the end of the world if you're grossly oversampled or undersampled.
Sensor size may be more of an issue just because your field is tiny (about 28' x 16'), so you will want to learn how to build mosaics.
good thing I am willing to learn then 😄
I've done it before in SIRIL and it's not too difficult.
Guess I will stay in this chanel now 😄
The RC6 is not gonna oversample him a lot. If he has an average seeing of 2" then he should be right at the limit
2nd. You can use a reducer to get a more suitable pixel scale
And that'll help with the field size
Jup. If you're smart about it, you can get away with a lot
All hail blender
hot
This triggers me
bro hates rc6
GET OUT
It triggers me because I want an RCT. But ain't got the money for one right now
Can you show me a picture of yours? I just want to see how an RC8 looks on the WAVE150i
Oh Mr. Pickles my beloved, I apologize for my treatment
Brother... I spent a whole day modeling and simulating an RCT. Ain't that enough to prove that I'm part of the gang? 
Oooohhh that's gorgeous 😭
A Ritchey–Chrétien telescope (RCT or simply RC) is a specialized variant of the Cassegrain telescope that has a hyperbolic primary mirror and a hyperbolic secondary mirror designed to eliminate off-axis optical errors (coma). The RCT has a wider field of view free of optical errors compared to a more traditional reflecting telescope configura...
It's also here
#1326833769495269376 message
If you want, you can add these renders
Is that for an 8" GSO RC?
Ok... don't ask for the size 
Or brand. Is the general light path of an RCT
Also. I need to experiment a bit. The projected light cone looks... strange
I want to see, if I add a light mask in front of the source, will it magnify it?
I need to figure out how to simulate a naked sensor in blender
oh damn... sorry then 😬 ☹️
No worries. That gives time for the 130PDS to grind its grand project
This is how is looking so far
stars
In a different galaxy 
yeah, what filter you using?
This one, L,NIR,G,B
Optolong L-CCD
Optolong G-CCD
Optolong B-CCD
Svbony SV-183 IR pass filter
ah nice, how do you stack the NIR or combine it? i just ordered a zwo ir pass filter since i have an extra slot in my filter wheel for 1.25"
Well... most people use the IR data as luminance. I use the IR data on the Red channel
interesting. the IR shows more stars than a red filter?
Yes. IR passes trough dust much easier than BB data
cool. i got the nir filter to image the moon really, didn't know I can use it for dsos lol
DAMN!!!
for example, this is without any IR data
oh yeah thats a big difference
how long are your IR subs
180s
does it have less light pollution compared to luminance filter? i can really only get about 120s on my lum
to some extent. yes, it does reduce the LP slightly
i found that the IR is much more affected by the moon.
excited to give it a go once it get here. somehow i only get cloudy nights when its a new moon lol
so i shot my BB data during full moon and the IR during new moon
BB during full moon 
2h of luminance under full moon 
moon is this way lol?
i think...
brave man
God damn great photography skills
Holy what fwhm
2.1" for Luminance G & B, and 3.8" for NIR
Damn also how good is the sv 183 i was thinking of getting one
pretty darn good. Most of us use it 😄
Alright say no more also i ask beacuse most of the use ive seen from it was with planetary not dso
Also, it's like dirt cheap. So definitely something worth to have in the kit
Yeah
yummi :3
it blu
Hai
I don't use luminance in my compositions so I usually do IRG
no B?
I haven't really used it (though I do have an RGB image of this object)
I just like IRG because it highlights H-II regions really well
stars look not much different with RGB compared to irg
You pick up on some deep red stars in IRG but yeah the overall chromaticities are still what you'd expect
Unfortunately I don't yet have a rigorous way of color calibrating IRG (need to get transmission data for my filter)
i guess SPCC doesn't do great on it huh?
In SIRIL I can't select R filters for the green channel or G filters for the blue channel. I just want the chromaticities of the stars to be roughly Planckian
But at the same time they are in my image
I also still need more RG integration in both images
I've just been waiting to travel to a dark site for that
IR/H-alpha Euclid-like composition
and here's a scuffed HaIRG image
oh thats weird and annoying
i just got my IR pass filter today 
have to wait a bit lol
Wait could i perhaps have the data separate channels if possible
irg is silly :3
true
How about SLOAN gri?
you should get a nitrogen filter
@frosty shard are those red giants resolved by a telescope way outside your league? 

M33 from the RC8
flats wont work at all right now which is a massive bummer...
I spent almost all day looking for light leaks and patched everything i found
so if i shoot this again and flats still dont work...
im going to be massively disappointed
the resolution is bonkers
I noticed very tenuous filaments of H-alpha connecting each nebula in this spiral arm
it's kinda crazy
can see that in 45 minutes of red data
and an hour of lum
from bortle 9
What camera
Touptek ATR2600M
Ooh nice
Did you have any other camera before this if so what was the difference when upgrading
I have a Ares-M Pro from P1 that I used for about 5 months exclusively
between it and the Touptek, no difference
just more field of view
i had a 533 MC Pro before the Ares-M and that was a completely different experience
the signal of a mono cam is so much better than color
under every circumstance
okay for instance
the M33 above is about 3 hours of mono data from bortle 9
this is 47 hours of broadband + narrowband data from my 533 MC Pro, this scope was slightly slower than my RC8
Why is it that when i stretch a color cam data the background gets all rainbow like but mono with filters doesn't suffer the same fate well atleast not as much as color
I do not know
I think it is some byproduct of the bayer matrix
Huh alright
I had an issue like that once when i was pointing my telescope too close to a street light when shooting
Could it be a local light source thats too close?
Well a nearby light like any light pollution will cause your signal to be reduced which means you will have to stretche the image more to bring out the colors and details and thus causing those color splotches
Which is why i cant wait to get a mono cam soon
I know thats not exactly what i meant
In my case, i had a literal rainbow stripe across my image
I thought ur issue was kind of simular
Oh no its not like that mines more like color blotches like this
Aaaah
time to dither
I did 😢
still looks like some walking noise lol. how often were you dithering and how many pixels?
I think it was like once every 5 pic and i think it was 10 although take this with a grain of salt since i dont exactly remember
hmm i do every 2 subs usually, or every sub lol
My mount takes too long to settle some times
that does make it harder
i need the fin walking noise gif
You can get those blotches with mono as well if you are not careful 😅
Well atleast it will be cooled so less noise unlike my current camera
Tru
The blotches in mono can be from, improper gain, wrong temp, insufficient integration and overstretch
Also from processing many mono cams images ive seen that the color blotches are usually more evenly spread compared to osc and you'd need to strech them a lot more to make it visible also some of the color blotches from my current camera is probably because of dark current
splotchies :3
so sexy
Why do RCs hold so much aura
Because they are the best 
I can't explain it but
Whoever reacted with ❌ , I hope your telescope tips over
Still... RC8 unbalanced makes me uneasy
i was thinking the same lol
It has held up in extreme winds (not for imaging though, just visual)
I have total trust in the setup
Tomorrow my adapter arrives. No more CF tripod 
Also, you know what that means? More payload capacity
Getting ready for that juicy RC8
perhaps im misunderstanding relativistic response yet again but they look pretty similar
okay this image aura farms in general
buy me one while you're at it 
i can't afford it myself 
🤤
not an RC but love being back to imx533, mono this time!
kick him out of here
how dare you drag that non rct filth into this safe place
(I say, as a newt user
)
Im out in bortle 3 atm
Shooting M33 with the RC8
Secondary dewed up
Good stars are now ruined.
😭
Exactly! Only RC's are allowed in the RC Gang
This might or might not have been taken by a newtonian
Quattro is finally doing some work I see
Are you planning on IR as well?
RC8
No
But but but... IR 
Nah I dont want to shoot NIR with the 571
Doesn't the 571 have a better QE in IR than 533?
Its the exact same
We have clouds

Night may already be over
This wasnt supposed to happen
My pier extension arrives today. I can not test the difference between CF and steel tripod this weekend because of the clouds 
Pain
Oh... they need a bit of threatening
Or a reminder
Helped when i got my rc from them and i slid in their dms like:
Hey👉👈
Where rc?
When I ordered my WAVE150i I was like... Excuse me? WHAT THE FU?!!!! You guys have the mount and tripod separately in stock and ready for shipping, but you don't have the bundle that I ordered?
They were like... yeah well we don't have the bundle in stock
So I told them, let's swap from the bundle to separate products
I got my stuff shipped in the next 10 min
But... that's something that people don't understand. This is german efficiency 
Lmaooooo
Yeaaaa
Tbh its been almost the same with the rc
I wrote them, 1 hour later they sent it and tgen they responded like: we are so sorry, but dhl messed up, we dont know what happened
Like: yeaaa sure thing mate
my IR filter has halos 
i think i got the zwo 1.25" mounted one from agena
You got zwo LRGB filters?
no i have touptek
Get Optolong LRGB
how does that help my IR halo lol
Hold on... I brain dead
I just realized you said IR filter
I thought you said L filter
lol i thought you misread it
my IR data seems to actually have less stars than the luminance, looking at M33 last night
and thats 180s L vs 300s IR
i think all of them do
i dont have one that doesnt have halos
plus dont worry
if you didnt have to deal with halos, you would have to deal with micro lensing
idk what micro lensing is
well micro lenses are little lenses on top of each pixel to help direct light on to the pixels more efficiently
i dont know the exact reason but basically microlensing is a repeating pattern visible around stars caused by the interaction of light with those micro lenses
it shows up most often when shooting wavelengths outside the visual range
Looks like this on bright stars
oh thats fun
Guys we got about 6 and a half hours of good integration on M33 last night
Thats despite the clouds and despite the dew
Well considering the whole deal with the imx585 is that it super sensitive in IR im sure there is no micro leasing right, right?
I believe the 585 does have micro lensing but I dont think it kicks off until further into the IR part of the spectrum
Noooo 
There's absolutely no microlensing with the 585. this is 4.5h of NIR data, so if there was micro lensing, it should have showed up
Wtf?
Thats impressive tbh
ok... i didn't test it by pointing it to a bright star like Vega or Alnitak
Oooh
here's a sub if y'all don't believe me 
Well it makes sense because the imx585 is designed around NIR sony specifically advertises it
Well not every star emits in IR especially the larger blue giants and hot stars
Stars are broadband targets
. they emit from radio waves to gamma rays and everything in between
Thats only when specific times I'm talking about black body emissions
Our sun emits slightly more in NIR than in visible with about less than 2% in mid IR and less than 10% in UV with longer wave lenghts taking majority
But thats not to say that the sun doesn't have gamma and x ray bursts
And sun spots dont shine bright in NIR
Big giant blue stars emit most of their energy in UV with some in visible and very minimal in NIR
Like less than 1%
So basically thats like trying to capture something as faith as a red dwarf in m33
Not nessissarily
Im only getting it at very bright stars
The example i posted was vega, thats why it was so extreme
ir filters be like
Imma test it, whenever I get clear skies 
@frosty shard do you think that the pickaxe shaped stars at the edge of the image circle on an RC (due to the light baffle tube) can also happen if, say an M42 sized ring, is cutting off light near the camera, with the sensor being APS-C?
Cause my corners all have pickaxe shaped stars.
Right around where the worst of the vignetting starts too

Potentially, but I don't have a means to test this.
Whats going on with those stars
FUDGE
dew heater moment
How
it had to be in the light path
which created the wild flaring

also the rejection algorithm got rid of half the flaring but not the other half
that's why it looks so weird
Damn that sucks
eh not really
it was either use a dew heater or dont shoot
and i went there to shoot
so i was using the dew heater
the data was very sharp regardless of that fact
Why not use a dew shield
dont have one
dont really want to deal with the issues that come with using them either
i cant guarantee that my flats will work, for instance
How come
if the dew shield shifts at all, for any reason, it will throw everything off
Ohh right but wouldn't a dew heater cause internal convections i mean a telescope is pretty sensitive i can literally hold the back of my hand in front of my telescope in room temperature environment and see a pretty noticeable blurring
depends on the ambient temperature outside and how warm the dew heater itself is
there's ways to work around that but it didnt seem to affect my rig last night
Not massive convection currents. A dew heater will keep the optics temperature slightly above ambient temp. your body temp will always have a much higher delta t compared to a dew heater.
Right
Guys, I think buying an RC was a mistake. It's nowhere near as satisfying as getting wide field shots.
(this is my first unserious, scuffed attempt at widefield with a DSLR lol)
Did you take something? 
About 40 GB of raw images
I'm not talking about data, i'm talking about drugs. 
Tylenol
I need to go to sleep and then process this data
I like your contrast on the nebulas :3
thats how my brother got his autism 
Damn... for 60€ this pier extension is too OP
I already put the mount on I'd and gave it a shake test, already is much much much more solid than the CF tripod
Which one is it? I may want one...
good holder for hex wrenches too it seems
🤤
Legendary data haul this weekend and it looks like I got another clear night tonight to shoot IR
yupee
Where's the laser?
In the finder bracket
Speaking of lasers... I ordered 10 x 50mW modules 
What wavelength?
532nm
Peak
Choose your fighter (the correct answer is the one on the right)
RCs are so chunky
Had to blow most of the night fixing up my collimation, but it's in the best shape it's ever been now
Why your rig looks slanted?
Lens distortion
star looks like ring nebula
u look like ring nebula
why are you being mean to me :(
thats not even an insult tbh
ring nebula is good
ur mom looks like ring nebula
uh oh
the rust?
Yup
It looks like there was water in my telescope bag
Probably from the deranged humidity on Saturday
Not sure. I mean if the scope holds collimation it's fine
But I'm surprised there aren't galvanized or zinc dipped screws in there already
I'm more worried about there being some other water damage I can't see
carbonstar cutting corners 
I even wiped down my OTA but it looks like condensation occurred in my telescope bag and I forgot to air it out
So I also cut corners
fill the OTA with rice 
At least zinc dipped screws are cheap
Actually maybe I should get one of those silica moisture absorber bags and put it in there
Tbh... I like the looks of it. It looks like it has seen some stuff, it looks like it's actually being used, unlike them redcats being more of a paper weight than a telescope
If it's cosmetic I don't mind. It's more so that I don't want anything structural to be compromised
Soak the screws on oil
Why do those screws look like they are on the verge of being stripped
D:
Have you seen the average Toyota corolla undercarriage? 
ricecooker :D
That's what RC stands for?
I do want to get one of these though
Do it
Well... I got the cine one and not the photo lens
So I will test it and tell you if it's worth it
Oh I didn't notice that
Cine lenses use T stops instead of f stops for aperture. That's an easy giveaway
Really astronomers should use T-stops too
Truuuu...
I mean... technically we do
Wait where? I've never seen a telescope with a listed T-stop
ain't this the formula?
It is, but like, nobody uses T-stops in amateur astronomy in practice. I've never seen a telescope marketed with a specific T-stop
How many people here understand T-stops vs f-stops? so, it's easier to market it as f-stop
But it makes the most sense when you have an RC and 25% of your f-stop is blocked by the secondary
Or any obstructed design really
Well... theoretically, in an RC... The secondary is not obstructing too much of the reflective surface of the primary mirror, since is on axis with the lightpath
like... i think a Newtonian blocks more of the reflective surface of the mirror than an RC
ok... i improvised some numbers to get a theoretical number
i used 95mm for the CO, 203mm outer and 80mm inner diameter of the primary mirror. i get around T-9... feel free to correct me on that
the transmittance is around 78% in this case
About what I got as well from previous calculations
Watch me slowly get fogged out while shooting IC 10...
All hail to Wolfram Alpha 😂
Also should have mentioned that the mirrors have 96% reflectivity each
so the system transmission is (0.96)^2 = 92.16%
yeah well... i assumed ideal mirrors
I don't have an RC and i don't know the dimensions for yours either... si i had to pull numbers out of my .... uuuhm... barlow 
Now this. This I'm really proud of. 17.2 hours of integration, all totally worth it
I'll probably process this data over and over again (and add in H-alpha) but this is where I'm feeling I'm using my rig to its full potential
I really love how the stars turned out
IRG stars never fail to deliver
Why you don't invest in a set of gri filters?
I'm actually planning on getting Bessel UBVRI filters in the future. I want the overlap for distinct reproduction of spectral colors
This is 14 hours RGB (for the normies)
@frosty shard
I need your aid.
Optically they are identical. Which one should I lock on?
If you experience high humidity I would recommend the carbon fiber version
High humidity is something that I'm dealing with daily😅
then get the carbon one
theyre not immune to dew as both brandon and I can attest to but it takes much longer for dew to form inside the tube than a typical steel tube scope
I've also heard some people report rust on the steel tube versions. Not sure if it's enough to be structurally significant, but I've been told to specifically avoid the steel tubes if you're in a coastal area
oh my wtf
Now that explains my mylar foil doesn't it?
I forgot you had that
I mean... come on... look at it. Almost space ready
you should get hbeta filter
habata filter
Look what the cat dragged in
It looks so CUTE!
Oh come on!
looks like the 6" am I right?
Yes!
watch the clouds roll in
Gonna add the OAG and the electronic focuser and then just wait for clouds to go away
whats the matter?
I want an RC as well 
Okay how can I attach the ZWO EAF there?
love the black color... but the fingerprints xD
You need to get the R&P focuser
Damn! But I found a print online, gonna try that first
There it is 👀
thought that was the inside of your PC for a second lol
3d printer pc
Okay yes I see it now 😅
i had to unpack it in the car... i was too excited

ROKI
you dont
what do I do instead?
hm... well I already have an EAF lying around xD
ooooooo... you can't keep the optics clean.
that's not the only factor
that particular focuser is probably the worse one the RC's come with
i dont think it can support imaging payloads
without slipping constantly
which one do you recommend?
this one has been really good
a feathertouch is a good pairing but theyre crazy pricy
hm... this is okay from the price
goes on my birthday list
Hopefully you can make the stock one work somehow then
That stock one doesnt have a rail on the bottom does it?
I think thats the one that just rubs on a flattened part of the drawtube 💀
That is the same kind on my apertura dob and it slips with just a typical eyepiece in it.
Nope
Ah yeah that one is supreme garbage
Probably not but since the semester is starting I will only use it once before I can get the new one
Seconding this recommendation, I manually focus my RC with this R&P focuser but it's a breeze to work with
Ball bearings 🫤

The Crayford is excellent for visual observing though, I would keep it around if you plan to do any
https://www.astroshop.de/auszuege/ts-optics-okularauszug-monorail-m90x1-2-/p,57454?_gl=1*1hwchz*_up*MQ.._gsMQ..&gclid=Cj0KCQjwovPGBhDxARIsAFhgkwQCFsN3SKDykPDB-LgS-Pq7PgbrzMEiRaRZ7pmHeM62KeIOX03YU6caAm32EALw_wcB
I also found this one
But I believe aside from the knob design they are fairly identical
LENSES REEEEEEEEEEEEE
-# can't wait to see the results though
Saaame!
I also need one of those
Just shoot IR with it 
i can't put any filters XD
it's a full spectrum DSLR
is this the good one?
they make f2 and f2.2
Cine lens.
T2.2
Which is the f2 lens but with correct transmittance is T2.2
This is the only test that I could run right now 😅
Is that at full aperture?
Yup. T2.2
Yeah u can just wash it with some distilled water then pour some isopropyl alcohol and then do a final rinse of distilled water
The only downside to this method is that it wont get rid of persistent stains and it wont get rid of tree sap
I was joking. My flats are almost completely spotless. There's one stray dust mote but other than that... spotless😅
I still dont know how you do it
What kind of dark magic do you use
I had to cut out and make a custom little fabric sleeve to keep light from going up and around the drawtube of the focuser
I put electrical tape around everything else

Thats the only way my flats finally worked
Dust blower and microfiber cloth. I clean the coma corrector before each imaging session.
When your lock screen looks like a Hubble wallpaper

Ive been using Hubble's M51 photo as a lock screen on my PC and every time I turn on the PC, I stare at it like a dumbass
Can't wrap my head around seeing so many other stars in a galaxy so not close to us 
My M33 photo echos that exact same feeling
Ah
if they ever make an RC with this color scheme I'd go crazy
Hold that thought
Close enough?
looks white not beige
Cook it in the sun for a while
NGC-206 is next, yes?
This is what some white paper look next to mine
So its definetely somewhat off-white
I mean... in the dark you don't see it😂
Fair point
ISO palette
Well that was to be expected 🥲
What have I created?
An abomination, because it is not a glorious Ritchey–Chrétien
What are you imaging tonight?
Is the gold foil an aesthetic feature or does it do anything?
i love it.
M31 in Hα and heart nebula (I think) with the Samy
2 cameras, one mount 
I know
Whats the gold foil for
Protects the steel tube from humidity, and makes the telescope more thermally stable
Do you have a fan on the mirror
Nvrm you dont
No I dont
it’s research time hehehe 
The content we need in this thread
wait this is a Planewave RC right, and not a - and I shudder to utter these words - corrected D*ll-K*rkham
it’s a cdk… but it’s close(ish)…!
REFRACTION IS CHEATING
just use the right conic constants bro
@frosty shard i searched it and found this 
I mean jokes aside I'm pretty sure the Planewave ones are diffraction limited well into the IR. Not so sure about UV
okay my fellow cult members
I present
RGOiii M33

some of these nebula are unironically only a few pixels in size
Why do your stars have diffraction rings
Central obstruction modulation
a byproduct of having a large central obstruction
Damn
it was much more exaggerated on the night i shot my broadband because i had to put a dew heater around the secondary mirror
it's normally not that bad
Around the secondary? How does that work
well the secondary mirror is parallel to the primary mirror and it has a giant dew shield around it
unfortunately that location gets so humid that the dew shield might as well not be there
I took my dew heater and wrapped it around that dew shield to get rid of the dew
NGC 604 picture

RGO
What would happen if you warmed your secondary directly with a heating strip directly behind it
One of the sharpest ngc 604 ive seen
hopefully a better result than what i saw but i dont know for sure
i dont really know what the best way to approach dew is with these scopes
it's a giant headache
What scope is it anyway
TPO carbon tube RC8
Same
ourple :3
Not too bad for a 230 Euro lens 😂
Pain™
It turns out the screw holes in the filter wheel were not the issue
Which is weird, because when I reshot my IC 10 IR data the flats corrected fine
Alright I think I need to go light leak hunting
I don't think my flats are bad because the big dust motes in the corner correct completely. Also, I took the IC 10 data when the moon phase was more favorable
i’ll bet you could modify your RC to have heaters behind the mirrors, that’s what we have on the cdks
not sure what that’d entail though tbh
but it’s probably the best solution
get a sensor to monitor temperature + dew point and some kind of dew heater controller
boom no more dew
how many times have you done that target
I just keep getting more and more data

holy shit, give me ur setup pls
and bortle
and elevation above sea lvl
that is CRAZY
it looks like a cat :3
I dont think you want Vels bortle 
8/9
RC8, Starizona Apex-L, mono 571.
182m
whats ur pixel scale
0.72"/px
svbony salmon very 227
what on earth
God this focuser is trash
spooky focuser
show me the whole scpe
svopose
scope
i just wans see it
not to do with the focuser
I still cannot attach the camera, because the adapter ring for the 2 inch and OAG is lying in the post office which is closed today but tomorrow I will get it 😅
buh
yeah, I was not home when the post guy was here xD
just imagine an OAG, filterwheel and the 585 from touptek at the end of it xD
extension toob go brrr
boi is loooooong
i forsee no issues
especially not with focuser tilt

this is why I am getting a new one xD
but I just wanted to connect everything to see how it will look
based??!
yes, good idea
Holy spiral! Did match my data to Spitzer? 
I referring specifically to the core
You big RC fellas gotta take a look deep into the andromeda core
That's a crayford sir😅
Not exactly because it also features this metal plate which keeps the focuser stable (up to 4kg of payload)
huh, you could put a refractor in your focuser then 
now dont give me ideas xD
xD
that one is also garbo
would a rack and peanuts work better?
Yes
i have a rack and some peanuts in my garage so im all set!
this is peak
any specific reccomendations for a rack and onion?
ah damn they have a R&P which is available after the first of december 🙁
@frosty shard Opinion on my L,Hα,IR,G,B palette? 😂
literally anything other than the crayford GSO ones
feathertouch, even a moonlight would be better
thats if you cant get something else
i dont know if they intend to make the "carbonstar" R&P focuser available elsewhere but if they do, that's a definite must have
Then I shall get this one. It will still take a few months to get here but thats fine then
Yeah id at the very least place an order and then you know you have one on the way
That way you've got your peace of mind
Rushing to get any if the others that are available will just lead you to more disappointment.
true... and I can always just use my ZS61 in the meantime... which is sad but anyway
Yeah unfortunately that is probably true, however you probably dont want to use it with an inadequate focuser anyway because getting it to work with the scope can be a nightmare
The linear rail crayford you linked above is identical to what my RC8 came with
oh dear
That thing was slipping with half the weight it is rated for and the reason is because tensioning it actually had a worse impact on the weight capacity for some reason
Not to mention
It had quite a bit of flex in the drawtube, making accurate collimation impossible.
Thats still ignoring however the hell you're supposed to mount an EAF to it, which didnt work all that well im going to be honest 
I already tested it with the 3D printed version and the EAF worked just fine so I suppose it will also work on the other focuser

i think even if you can get that to work, you will run into what i saw where the focus position shifted quite a bit throughout the night and it made my filter offsets useless
if you have a simple OSC cam rn, you can maybe make it work if youre lucky but dont expect to reach tack sharp focus with it
Why shouldn’t the EAF work on this? It worked on all the other scopes I had previously too
oh you mean on the other focuser? Yes that is true, it would slip. But I dont think I will have this problem on a sturdy rack and pinion (I may even get a tilt plate just to be safe) and maybe I wont use filter offsets because i dont think they save that much time
not that it shouldnt
that it is a nightmare to mount securely on those
aaaah! So that is what you meant 😅 sorry, was a bit lost there
i mean on the stock focuser the RC came with yes
and even on the linear rail one you shared
yeah... no. I will order the rack and pinion one! This seems like the beast option for me at the moment
because the focuser it came with is the reason why the scope was so cheap 😂
Thanks for the help 😅
yeah this looks almost the same as what @frosty shard and I got
it might be a slight downgrade because the compression ring bit looks like it may not come off?
dont quote me on that until you get it in your hands
which part is the compression ring? The silver one connecting it to the telescope?
no
so you know the part at the end of the drawtube, where you have to lock down those thumb screws to hold the camera securely?
that's the compression ring
ah!
compression rings on an RC are a bit of a headache and you want to avoid using them if possible because they will introduce tilt and collimation error that varies every time you take the camera off and put it back on 💀
however, if the compression ring doesnt come off
no worries
there are M48 threads here
I think you can directly screw the camera on there
you can thread your camera straight onto the back
yes I just saw that too

alrighty, let me just make a purchase xD
idk what the thumb screw is doing there at the bottom of the focuser
mine doesnt have that
doesnt need it either
well guess I will find out in december
LETS GOOO
one step further away from becoming financial responsible
heck yeah
Just make sure to poke them with a stick every now and then.
There's no such thing as financially responsible in this hobby 
red
bro has beef with his red filter
Also guys my scope wagon broke down after an outreach event...
Big oof
Unfortunately the manufacturer does not provide replacement wheels, so I have to buy a new one...
Well, not from them. I decided to order one from a company that provides spare wheels and far better support
This paper has information about how the aberration coefficients of an RC depend on the state of mirror misalignment. I'll give this a read later to see how this might assist with collimation
It's IR data🫠
I'd say, that's pretty good for a stick SW focuser😂
Okay I gotta ask what does the ASTAP tilt percentage mean?
I'd think of tilt units as being in degrees or subdivisions thereof
Is it just spread of the HFR values?
Is the average of the HFD value.
HEY GUYS GUESS WHAT 
I GOT
ANOTHER
BAD
AM5N

west side of the pier and a 2 minute sub
east side of the pier and another 2 minute sub (still bad guiding tbh but the sub isnt trailed)
i literally cannot even do 3 second exposures without trailed stars on the west side of the pier
it is impossible
i basically disabled input from PHD2 here to see the motion of the stars and uh
this is indistinguishable from 0.5s exposures and trying my best to mellow out the spikes
input actually doesnt work
it does nothing
the best it can do is bring the spikes closer to the 0 point and that is it, it does not reduce the magnitude or frequency of the spikes
no amount of changing my guide rate, changing min mo's, aggression, max pulse length, or RA correction algorithms has any impact on reducing the magnitude of these spikes
it is completely screwed
Isn't the proxisky the one that doesn't offer any technical support after the sale?
no
they actually will talk one on one with you if you have any issues
Then who was it?
Juwei
Cheaper than proxisky, but idek who the owner is
@frosty shard I got enough lasers to transform my telescope into an EDM party

30-50 mW? Are you making a weapon?
Death ray 
Tbh I think the Proxisky will be a better value for you, but if you are considering the Wave 150i, I have had zero issues with the saddle coming loose since I replaced the Dec bolts with M6x12s from the hardware store.
The issue was only the stock hand bolts, they're garbage. There's also a chance they may be different now because I know Sky-Watcher has revised the design a bit since I bought it
so far mine are solid
So actually I ended up discovering that I may have gotten a mount that was not intended to be sold to the public
Some pre-production Wave mounts were accidentally released that have a black base, and I have one of those
You mean the rotary plate? 
I might grab a wave specifically because I have an EQ6R tripod made for it

Yup. Mine's black
Did you show this to ZWO?
Yes
Just recorded and sent them videos of it happening in real time
I apologize, I felt the need to image dump to glaze the RC some more

I dont need to speak for it
it can speak for itself 
Isn't the M33 shot with the Quattro? 
Well in that case, here are some from my 130PDS
THE SOYJACK

That's a scientifically approved annotation 
This is worse than the first one 😭
Did you try to contact SkyWatcher and tell them that you got a pre-production model?
uh wtf
oopsies
lol
that may explain a lot of your troubles
@harsh matrix I got the chance to test the pier extension from aliexpress. The guiding went from 0.8 to 1" in gusts to max 0.7 and an average of 0.3" / 0.4"RMS
Extremely cursed... but practical
ez
okay those ones are sketchy

Wdym?
3 rods
those are typically less stable than a fully enclosed pier
There are 4 rods. 1 inch thick each
Oh I forgot the honse
HONSE
HONSE!
tasty
Tbh, it could have been a lot better
The seeing that night was hot garbage
4"💀
i can tell
Nope. It works fine and I just find it funny I got one
Finally got around to processing my outreach photos
scary stuff
women
very spooky
Skill issue. Don't get a Ritchey–Chrétien
guess I'll stick with the sct
oh well
pass it to me then
Does IR/S/O count as broadband for this purpose
Why are you sending jpeg?

nope
I'm on my phone rn
get off your phone bruh
there are other humans here
:clueless:
Well... that's why I want ugriz
My god the resolution
Oh it's literally over half the diameter of the HST
That explains a lot
I already plan to try some lucky imaging to get a cleaner image of it
it's already there but it looks like a tiny black dot, not a disc
pretyy :3
they got protoplanetary disk
I'm definitely getting a full ISHO mosaic of the nebula (2×2)
yaa
i may try lucky image with a 2x barlow 
Hi there! I am currently guiding my RC6 with 30mm f4 guide scope and asi120mm cam. Do I need an off-axis guider in my life?
Are you running into any issues at the moment?
o ly if isyes
If you get an OAG the issue you're gonna face first is that you're probably gonna want a better guide cam than the ASI120MM
not really, other than my scope position is not adjustible and its a slighly different view with the main tube
ugh, nope, dont want to invest in another cam at the moment
maybe I should get a bit bigger guide scope
If you're not seeing any differential flexure issues (great guiding but stars are still trailed) then a guide cam is fine for you
That may be the better play
Pleiades nuts lmao
I think I'd have to hit up the Pleiades in 12 panels with my setup
This is bugging me
what is?
The flares.
Well... your mirror edges might benefit of some masking or some black paint😂
or i could just not

But... but... but... what about perfection? 
nothing is perfect
Beat u to it
Though mine has some microlensing
Imma be very late for the party
What camera are you using? And are you shooting IR?
Omegon 533m
I did not shoot nir for this one, but tried taking luminance
Was a bad choice to do so wout a uv/ir block in my filterwheel
I think ive used my 571 for most of the year 
Ah makes sense
Yeaa
I have one installed now, but i need to get at it again, as there are a few tiny dust spots on it
🤫
Ive managed to get everything except the lum dust_free, ill do the lum too!
I think I finally managed to get the HaIRG IC 10 image to a state I'm happy with
At least in terms of noise
The more I look at it the more I feel the need to go back and reprocess
I would add some normal LRGB data to it and fix the green Hα😅
but.. but green!
The Ha is supposed to be green lol
I mean that's what it naturally looks like in an IRG image
Though it's more of a mint green, which I take to be the result of O-III in the blue channel. So I might have to go back and get O-III on this one
That'll be arduous with the dust extinction, but it just might be worth it
In SDSS/SLOAN, the Ha appears green because it lands almost dead center in the g' filter. In your case, the Hα is isolated between the R and IR pass filter. So technically you have the freedom to make the Hα any color. If I was you, I would separate the Ha and asign it to blue.
It's definitely in the R filter, it cuts off at 700 nm and the IR filter has negligible transmission at 656 nm. However, I am also wondering if I'm getting a weak Paschen-∞ contribution, which would be in the IR range (about 820 nm IIRC)
I did experiment with Euclid palette but it's bicolor
I could also try doing what I did with my Orion Nebula image and go for IR/S/H
Ngl, this looks more pleasant.
Buuut... one thing you have to agree with me. The data does need luminance😅
Nah. Luminance is for people who have lives. I don't
In all seriousness I'd probably add luminance if I had a suitable longpass filter, but since I don't and I want to make comparisons between IRG and RGB images, I just don't use luminance
I've even considered going UBVRISHO in a filter wheel and foregoing luminance entirely
There's a good reason why Luminance filters cut UV and IR. You can't focus both in the same point. Plus, in my m31 project I'm glad that I shot luminance because it really brought back some contrast. The IR already makes the dust fainter... having the Luminance helps the data separate from the background better.
Well maybe you can't focus UV and IR to the same point, but I can 
In my proposed setup I wouldn't have a filterless slot though.
I have considered experimenting with one...
Bruv, imo I think you should really cut down your bandpasses😂
Aren't we both using reflectors?
Yeah, so no chromatic aberration. Assuming there's no other glass in the way, though
Your coma corrector, however, may not be so happy in the UV...
You'll always get better bandpass control with RGB or IRG only (at the cost of integration time)
Also, after looking into how to linearly combine LRGB data, I found this hilarious thread
https://app.astrobin.com/forum/topic/119761/luminance-subframes-degrade-color-images-resolution-a-demo-and-explanation-of-why
Is this you schooling that dood? 
Lol, I'm not great at schooling folks, but Alex is a tough cookie. Hell stand strong on that mountain. There are people that believe him, which scares me a bit.
Naaah. The moment I saw TopazAI I knew the truth. Seeing you there just confirmed my skepticism
Whooptie pointed out all of the things that came to mind when I read the title of his page
honestly
he's one to talk
💀
he of all people complaining about it
all he does is waste his time and money on his equipment that he ends up butchering the data from any way.
me when the sub frame looks blurX'd
more like deconvolved
blurx has a certain look to it
You can combine luminance linearly if you do it in a linear color space like CIE XYZ or xyY, but it seems like this is not a straightforward process in most software
:(
I read that thing twice and still doesn't make sense to me.
I understand being innovative and coming up with new more efficient ways of doing a task, but this, this is like one thing that should be kept hidden from beginners. Next are we gonna find someone saying that TEC is a gimmick and has no impact on dark current? 😂
TEC is a gimmick and has no impact on dark current 😂
I don't actually believe it. But you found someone who said it!

Ain't no way
Actually I remember someone having a very strong opinion somewhere in #🔨-do-it-yourself
Let me find it real quick
this guy has never heard of thermodynamics
Of course I have. Thermodynamics class is that once class that kills chemistry students
yea 😭
FINALLY SOMEONE
