#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 13 of 1
ok cool cool;
And I'm using a Player One Xena-M, Askar OAG, and PHD2 for software
@harsh matrix Did you started to experience some kind of uneven vignetting in your rig?
the nature of my vignetting is pretty uneven to begin with but the vignette doesnt move around
https://youtu.be/nHuLrYe-oik?si=I81jT8mATdHaArkT
Yesterday I stumbled upon this
Ritchey-Chrétien telescopes by GSO, Guan Sheng Optical, are a popular option in the medium price range. They are resold by various retailers, such as Teleskop-Express/Teleskop-Service, Orion, iOptron, Astro-Tech, Apertura, TPO, ... . They unfortunately suffer from a optical design problem which limits their use. With the primary mirror baffling...
yeah
mine doesnt qualify for that
the baffle tube is way too long for that flaw to affect this one
Hmmmm...
Well, I guess imma have to buy an RC first, gut it, and then see if I can figure out what the problem is
the vignette is caused by my reducer btw
it's not because of the scope
and any RC larger than the 6" will have a more than adequate baffle tube now
Time to get rid of the reducer hehehehe
i fixed the issue i was having with the flats too if that's what you were asking
had nothing to do with the scope itself or the reducer

What was it
as far as i can tell, it was caused by a very obscure light leak
something that didnt affect the rig at night, not even in my bortle 9 billion back yard
but will affect it in a high intensity light environment
say the day time
or a brightly lit room
I guessing the sky brightness drowned the light leak
i dont think there was enough ambient light to leak in to this particular leak
i think it was caused solely during the day time
because i take sky flats with this rig, primarily
when i took them inside, it was still in some daylight but it was also in a well lit room, so the leak would have affected the flats differently but in a detectable manner
Gemini Astro has some really good deals on 200mm automatic flat pannels
i think the interface between the OAG and the 5mm spacer plate for the OAG or the OAG to the filter wheel is at fault
i taped over both aspect before i left for the bortle 3 site
that was the only variable that changed between the last time i took flats and now

i would really not mind something like that rn 
plus i need a flat panel if i want to send this thing remote
There you go
Idk exactly. You need to measure the diameter of your tube. My 130PDS needs a 150mm pannel
mine probably needs 240 tbh
compared to what most cost, yeah
Wanderer Astro? That thing will set you beck more than the price of your telescope😂
I use one for my 130PDS and tbh, they work amazingly.
You can't unfortunately set how far they open.
Dangggg
bg is cooked because of a bad gradient extraction
got a better one this time
looks better to my eye anyway
Tbh I can’t tell
look around the edges as well as that left side
on my original image the dark dust on the right side was green while the dark dust on the left was more blue/magenta in color
it looked awful and it was a pain to fix
Wait I see it now
Yes sir so oag is a breeze
okay that should give you sharper images than i ever got with my RC6 lol
assuming you get the guiding dialed in very well
and assuming the reducer you have doesnt create more problems
And I feel like I already knocked it out of the part with my m51 for a 6”
It’s pretty good and well back up I bet it’s fine
@harsh matrix How in the world can I tell if it is in balance
Like HOW
I did need a counter weight smh smh
you dont
you dont really need to balance it on a harmonic but it does help
generally your scope will be balanced in dec with the dovetail quite far up the saddle
even your RA
Can I see a photo of your glorious rig
i ran my RC6 without a counterweight on the RA for a long time
Weird
Juweis are different
It can’t get it back up without
James Lamb on YouTube does some calculations for using a counterweight on the AM5N
Thats how you can determine the right place for a counterweight, assuming you have a counterweight bar.
how much does that counterweight weigh?
oh you gonna need more than that buddy
so then why cant it get back up if you dont use a counterweight on the RA?
I'm saying The same thing
B e R U h
It makes a sound but doesn't move icjuet tried again
It works with this 1.5 pound counterweight all the way down lol
if that is enough to make it move then ig it works
maybe take the 3 + 1/2 and put it all the way down
or use one of the CGEM ones
Hell no those are like 15 pounds
I mean it moves it moves
And it always vibrates a little right?
It really makes no difference where you put it tbh
i have no idea
my am5n does not vibrate or rattle or anything
I mean only when slewing
nah mine doesnt vibrate much at all
there's a very subtle vibration but it's super low frequency
Mines high
Whatever we will see tonight
And @harsh matrix So your saying I could have it soooo back heavy and it won't make a difference?
My counterweights sum up to 22lb😂
@harsh matrix Im outside doing phd2 if you would like to give some tips
no
im saying it's already so back heavy that you may not even be able to balance it with as forward in the saddle as possible
just follow what i told you earlier
and last night
Uhhh
guide exposure times could be anywhere between 0.5s and 2 s
that's about what's left to tell you
i told you everything else
Do you keep the agr default and all the other settings
i put aggression at 45 for the dec, pred weight on RA to 70 and react weight to 55
Ok I will play around with it thank you
but those will vary depending on how unbalanced your payload is
mine is quite balanced, not perfect, but i dont need to go higher and lower is insufficient
Hmm ok I see
this is why RC telescopes are the best scopes on the market 
Oh COME ON!
That's it I have made up my mind the heck with the new 2" focuser for the Quattro im getting a rc
LMAO
I'm sorry

Why sorry
Ehh I got a great job im not worried
ayo
if you are able to iron one out to the extent that i have, you will never look back
trust me

Yeah ill be honest I know vary little about rc telescope I never had a mount that could handle one till now so im looking forward I like the tinkering aspect
Fyi, I might have just lost a friend
He said he wants to sell his Q150P for a 103Apo
He's a dead man to me
Please tell me your joking, like some sick twisted joke, why the switch
I'm not joking. He said that he doesn't like that he has to colimate before each session and that a frac will give him sharper images
what is wrong with him
he's sort of not wrong about that
but if he is collimating before each session, it sounds like it's bone stock
in which case, it's a no brainer that he's unhappy with it

I'll be waiting for the "i wasted so much money on this frac"
I kinda want to buy it from him. Because he has the Backyard Universe upgrade installed
He sells it for 400€
Oh god
wait are you kidding?
he collimates every session and owns THAT
?

He scared of the locking screws maybe
The disappointment he is going to have might make him quit the hobby like wtf
Bro, I started with a 70ED, and then I bought the 130PDS because I wanted to see how a newtonian telescope behaves. No research nothing. First time I used it I didn't even had a CC installed and already it clapped my 70ED in sharpness
It's almost 4 years ever since and the 70ED didn't see the light of the day
. It keeps collecting dust
Svbony 503 70ed 👀
TS-Optics 70ED
Ahhh okay yeah because looking back after I upgraded i dont know how I was happy with any of those results
70ED + EOS 2000Da vs 130PDS + P1 Uranus M Pro
Night and day
The core
looks like 2 super faint arms of dust spiraling into the core
up to the right and down to the left
one moving "away" from the camera (right) and "toward" the camera (left)
Oh I see it niw
this is why i wanted to shoot M31 with this thing
Do it in Hα please 🙏 😭
i want to look for interesting little details everyone else will miss
i dont think i will with the RC but i want to with the quattro
where f/4 means i can get something in a reasonable amount of time
f/5.12 is very fast but not fast enough in my backyard
NGC 206
Imma try it in Ha with the 130PDS whenever I get a chance 
looks pretty pathetic thanks to the vignette screwing up the STF
do it
the ha structure is sick
yeahhhhhh
i didnt even see this sort of stuff in hubble's image because the core is so fing bright

Especially in the core
that's how ive felt ever since i moved on from my svbony sv503 102ed
yuppers
I've seen this SHO one a while ago and I have to try it
it's interesting how the ocean of stars just disappears in narrowband
That looks kinda cool not going to lie
Right? It just looks... strange. Like a starless nightsky
bruh i did see that right
that's really cool
wait so i used a semi old flat to calibrate this sub
and in 3 minutes in bortle 8, you can see almost the entire galaxy

Question. When I will image Andromeda should I focus on one of the arms or the core
I can't fit the whole thing in my FOV
i personally think framing it to fit NGC 206 and the core is the best way
👀
I can squeeze M32 as well
If I manage to pull that image, definitely I will get a bot of hate for not including the whole galaxy

oh absolutely
im definitely tempted to go deep on M31 with the RC8... ngl.
i think id like to shoot it all night with the RC from the bortle 3 site though
i hate shooting broadband from home now 😭
hmmmmmmmm
my quattro honestly isnt as sharp as my rc
but tbf, that was with the secondary all wonky, ive since fixed it more than how fixed it was before
I was giving an idea. Since the Quattro is much faster, that might allow you to get some decent NB data
ik
it's going to give me strong signal for sure
but it will be soft...

the resolution wont be as good either imo
But, as something to bridge the gap untilbyou get the same data from the RC, I think it will do
You can even see them with a redcat 
Reflector supremacy moment 
I don't think I will upgrade from the 585 for a while
@harsh matrix I think this framing is wide enough. The Ring nebula is somewhere in there
Poor white dwarf 
Well, I got complains that my framing is like a jail. So, I imaged something that fits the frame
yeah
what's funny is my 5" newt that wasnt even collimated resolved the white dwarf in like no exposure time

5 and a half hours of H-alpha, 2x drizzled, 0.6x drop shrink
no blurx

btw if you want to get really technical, there are objects the size of 1 arc second resolved in my image

possibly smaller idk, the seti astro what's in my image script doesnt get more precise than that afaik
@vapid patio new data wen?
Well maybe tonight I couldn't get my rms below 1.00 last night
And I wasn't able to use my 220 as it could not reach focus but my 120 could
Uhhhhhhh
Why?
Did it need to go in or out?
Ywah
Did you take off all of the threaded rings?
Yeah ofc
Even the really small thin one?
And I think I'm really unbalanced I just don't know how to err
Yeah
In the dec you probably have to get a counterweight or something
RA? Idk lol
Like put it on the front of scope
Yeah
Both kinda
That's no problem done it before
Just somewhere up front until the dec numbers drop and the dec corrections are less twitchy
Like where should my filter wheel be in relation to my oag and eaf its like come onnnn
Well my dec is at 0.30 its all Ra
Ra is at like 1.30 having huge dips
Like I know its a knock off but it should still do better than my 20 year old cgem
Yeah no matter what I change my Ra to any of the algorithms and then tweak it. It sucks.
The only way I could smooth it out, which is kind of a no duh is just raise the minimum move
Then do that
How long were your guide exposures?
id also go as far as to say so you dont waste the whole night tuning it, give each setting you change about a minute or 2, watch how the RA acts, if it gets super twichy, raise the minmo and drop the aggression or reactive weight, if it looks like it isnt correcting enough, do the reverse
if you cant get a middle ground, raise the guide exposure time by half a second or more
if the guiding looks like it is falling behind, drop the guide exposure length
definitely raise the guide prism by a bit, dunno by how much, not enough to be outside of the image circle ofc, but get it to where the 220 can reach focus and use that
you need to get that camera working with the rig or else this doesnt matter
About 1s-1.5 2 is too long and 0.5 is too much chasing
The main thing it will do it be doing fine then ddrop and slowly correct back up even with aggr very high I don't know why
My pirism is all the way in lol
Just did I needed to change around some spacers to t
Fit in a 10mm between the oag and camera
Oh thank god
That sounds like it could be periodic error
For PPEC to do its thing and actually work, you need to let the mount cycle several times
I think folks say 4 times
So 4 times 280s
I say put PPEC back on and leave pred weight on 50, and let it cycle several times
Then come back and see what its doing
You wont see stellar numbers right away.
What? Haha is it that big of a deal
Hm ok good to know I will try that for sure tonight
There's my other problem
. I wanna use my 220mm in my oag but it can't reach focus but my 120mm can. So I have to space out my oag more. But then I can't slide it in enough for my telescope to reach focus
Yes
Why🤨
And @harsh matrix Its not the same a am5. It is not direct strain wave it uses belts
My AM5N isnt direct strain wave either
It also uses belts
Cause the 120MM sucks on an RC as you and I have already discovered and discussed 
T SOMEHOW MY 20YR OLD CGEN GOT 0.60 -0.80
Oh didn't know that
But you didnt get many stars with the 120MM
Yeah maybe 5 on a good day
The 220MM should pick up a lot more so multi star guiding can kick into full gear
But lowwww snr
I get 7 to 9 stars with my Xena no matter what 
Fair
Fancy fancy indeed
Some dude couldn't get good guidibg with it with a oag and a asi585 but once he used a duo camera he got 0.30-0.80
It wasnt until I was guiding on that many stars that my RMS tanked.
The hell?
Really? What did you use before?
Or it was touptek 585mini
Maybe if you remember what was your guiding when you first started messing with it
I was using a 120MM Mini before
My guiding before I tried to tune it was between 0.7 RMS on a good night to like 1.1 and 1.2 RMS on a bad night
That was with a 120MM as well
Still better than mine smh smh
I couldn't get it below 0.6 RMS until after I got the Xena-M, and I couldn't get it to 0.3 RMS until I upgraded tripods
You're using the TC40 right?
Cause unfortunately, that has quite a bit of flexture in it and that does keep your RMS quite high regardless of what you do.
The AVX tripod works well with the pier extension too.
Can use cgem tripod nvm
You just need a 3/8" foot long threaded rod and a 3/8" wing nut or 2
If the CGEM tripod is the same as the AVX and EQ6 tripods, then yes.
It has the left and right nob thing built into it
I will see hold up
@harsh matrix
Yeah should work
You need some 3/8" washers as well
You can kind of see the wing nut below the tripod leg spreader
You can buy the hardware at Lowe's or something, its on their screws and nuts isle
What i wish I did is I wish I got a second wing nut the thread on before the tripod spreader to lock down the rod without the spreader on
Because without it, even though the rod is threaded into the larger of the 2 PE200 adapters, it can still spin around unless you get that single wing nut as tight as possible with the tripod spreader on.
I think having another wing nut to secure the pier extension without the tripod spreader is the play
Instead of wing nuts you can get fluted knobs that are 3/8" thru threaded.
Thats actually preferable since the only way to get the wing nuts tight enough is if you use a channel lock or something which is what I did.
HAHA LOOKS GOOFY
One sec
@harsh matrix Doesn’t @frosty shard use this tripod with his rc8?
I can’t do it with my current hardware, but I don’t understand how this is the main issue
And I mean I put a 20 pound weight in the bottom to lower the center of gravity and making it a wholeeee lot stiffer
No he uses skywatchers version
And he also doesnt get that great of guiding
Its not the main issue but it is an issue and it will ultimately be a problem later.
There's still enough flexture to be a problem regardless of what you put in there.
Is this just from personal experience? I don’t see that anywhere when looking it up
I mean it feel just as study as my cgems tripod
Both personal and what ive heard of and read both online and on the youtubes
Ive said it before but I'll say it again, my guiding RMS fell a good 0.2 to 0.3 just by swapping to a steel tripod
Changed nothing else.
Man…
I used to get a strong oscillation in the RA as well
Something that no amoint of changing settings or exposure time would fix
Also somthing weird is I will polar align then go do phd2 guide assistant, and it will say it is so far off 50 plus
I tried to stop the oscillations for weeks but never could get them to go away until I swapped the tripod.
Ok ok I will find a bolt
I dont really trust the guide assistant ever
Nina TPPA tells me my error is about 20 seconds or less depending on how accurate I wanted to get, and the guide logs tell me the same thing.
Guiding assistant always thinks im 7 to 10 or more minutes off
Weird anyways I’ll find a bolt No big deal.
Starnet++?
It still uses a neural network, but this is a purely linear model with statistical guarantees
Hmm ok cool
@harsh matrix
This feels sketchy
Thats because that isnt going to work
Or I dont think it will
Why
Because the spreader for the TC40 is plastic and not steel
And does the pier extension move around at all?
No
Is it super important?
Unless that process is basically flawless, there's no way im ditching starx for it.
Plastic will always have more give than steel
You can certainly give it a go, just dont expect flawless results
Also being set up on grass instead of a pad of some sort is going to pose its own issues
If you give that a shot, id keep a very close eye on it.
Okkkk
It just kinda weird how I have to keep that little ring on there. I feel like there should still be threads on the actual extension
Thats how they designed it lol...
Mine is the same way
Somebody installed the ring on the inside of the extension but I couldn't make it work with my screws so I didn't bother.
Can't cause I dont have a photo
Oh ok
I just feel like it’s only so many threads holding all of it
And you think that this is better than the tc40?
I dont know if that particular method is any better
Does the threaded rod go all the way through the ring on the pier extension?
Or like only halfway up?
Okay thats good.
I meant you need a 16" 3/8" threaded rod btw, foot long is too short
Preferably 1 or 2 3/8" wing nuts and as many 3/8" washers as wing nuts, or two through threaded fluted knobs.
I'm not entirely sure if star removal will be a regular part of my workflows, but since I'm part of the Julia community I feel obliged to give it a whirl
Actually it would be cool to do a side-by-side comparison
Ok I will do it tomorrow everything I is closed right now
I'm especially curious about how it compares to Starnet++ since they're both free tools
Well you can certainly give it a try
NO YOU DOUBTED THE TRIPOD YOU TELL ME
on a respectful note
Just to be absolutely sure, the threaded rod for the TC40 is threaded all the way into the pier extension right?
You look through the little window in it or down the tube, and you can clearly see the top of the threads are higher than or level with the top of the ring?
Let me show you
If so, its probably fine for one night but id definitely not use that permanently.
Wait no its not all the way up its maybe a quarter of the way
Then hell no dont try it
I mean, I’m only at 900 mm of focal length. My rig is 20 pounds. I feel like the TC 40 should be fine. I don’t know.
I dont think thats enough bite on the treads
Yeahhh
A quarter of the way is like 3 or 4 mm of threads and for a payload that heavy, its not worth the risk
You're going to have to see if you can make the TC40 work
Like I said, with the 20 pounds in the little basket underneath that significantly gives the tripod more strength
If you can get your rms down the kudos to you
That will help but it wont fix the problem which is the structural rigidity of the legs themselves.
But see if it does help first ofc
I ran it last night like that
Oh boy
You mean like how wide it is is the problem it’s very narrow?
Again, use PPEC, let it cycle 3 or 4 times, set the period length to about 280 seconds, and set the min mo higher than it was, possibly lower reactive weight, and set predictive weight to 50 to start
Sir yes sir
I mean the actual structural regitidy of the legs themselves, not anything about how wide the tripod base is
That does create its own set of issues but thats not relevant unless you have high winds.
And has zwo addressed it?
Ok haha well I will move it onto a platform
Good
That should help a bit
Orrrrr
Since thats a TC40, it came with grass spikes you could install instead to see if you can anchor it down.
Up to you though, whatever is easier.
I havent tried the grass spikes myself yet because im too much of a wuss to put my stuff on the grass 
i like my grass spikes
i usually find one or two subs with slight trailing without them
with the spikes things are a lot more stable
Haha like I said all this stuff is borrowed so if it sucks well I didn’t spend a penny
And I didn’t see any grass spikes but it’s whatever
This makes me wanna get a eqr-6 and skip harmonic mounts
harmonics can be pretty good, just gotta upgrade the tripod if you want ultra stability

Again this is what I was saying @vapid patio 
Heath is on point with this.
Really? I can’t belive the tc40 is that bad 😭
I’m getting the screws tomorrow
Everything is closed right now
i mean i’m using a tc-40 rn and im not losing anything due to instability
my setup’s lighter than an RC too
@harsh matrix Tisk Tisk Tisk
How much does your setup weigh
probably around 15-20 pounds? i’m not 100% sure
AND MINE WEIGHS 20
Hes using a 714 mm 102 frac
Its not nearly as demanding on guiding as our rigs are.
What RMS does your AM5 average?
This could bump into a sampling limit too.
mine usually .5-.6”
but i’m also reduced and haven’t tinkered with settings yet, with the asiair i got as low as .2-.3” - it’ll probably be better when im at native fl
Ahhh ok makes sense
@harsh matrix The dude who let me use it used it with asiair. I wonder what does asiair use to guide?
The asiair is using ripped/stolen PHD2 code for guiding
The guts are identical
I know
The asiair can report different numbers from Nina and a PHD2 application though
But what guiding algorithms and all that does it use?
I dont know how the air interprets the RMS values compared to standard PHD2 and Nina
I dont know
I think you are stuck with hysteresis only on it
For both ra and dec
Makes sense
Don't get too impatient with the mount though
Supposedly the Juwei doesnt perform quite as good as an AM5N, and could require meticulous tuning to achieve acceptable results.
I expect it to be usable, and possibly very good, it just needs some time and patience + lots of experimentation.
Well glad you back it up
I got my 220 going and my telescope is in focus
Good
That will alleviate some of the pain 
Why is Nina saying my fl is 865? 😭
I have 85mm of spacing
So odd
I mean asiair when native would say I am 1340mm
Thats probably what you told Nina it is idk
How or where is it saying that?
Uh that could be your actual reduction
If thats the case, go into settings and put that down as your focal length.
Just did
Did it throw this error before or after you did that?
Before
It just plate solved and told me is all
@harsh matrix This is so weird to see 😭 I was like why is my background so black with gamma all the way down? I think it just has so little read noise
Lmao
There you go
@harsh matrix Uhhh
Nice ants
I can't explain whats going on there. 
What is your focal length set to in PHD2 settings?
Uh oh I didn’t know there was a settings in phd2 for that
There is
Better get on that
May explain all of your problems if its more than like 10% off
Thats enough to show your RMS being significantly higher than it really was.
Uh oh then I might have been fine last night haha
Yeah exactly
I’m hovering at 1.00 higher and lower it has been running for 5min
If it tells you it does, its because its imbalanced
Not because there's actually backlash
PHD2 doesnt know the difference.
Oh I have a little it says
Last night it said I have some
You may be able to lower the min mo on the dec a little
The spiky RA nonsense tells me your seeing is complete garbage tonight 
@vapid patio did you get a 1.25" body guide camera or an m42 guide cam?
Yeah no it’s straight ass
And some low clouds
Huh
Like why do it be doing this
Which design did you get?
The mini
You should be able to reach focus tho
The flange distance for the 120 mini and 220 mini is the same
120mm is 8.5 and 220 is 13.5 I think somthing like that
Thus alos looks off to me
Yeah the problem is with that big of a spacer between the oag and filter wheel is my big scope can’t get in focus because it needs to sit back more and the oag won’t let it
The distance from the oag prism to the guide sensor, and from the prism to the main cam sensor should be equal
that is possible periodic error
Good or bad thing I hear that word a lot
there isnt a periodic error report included with those juwei's right?
No I don’t think so
not really either
And it’s like if I don’t do 0.5 sec exps it can’t recover
What are your agr values?
Around 1.0 rms
Because this looks like the RA is not able to correct enough to bring itself back
Not a option for ppec
Try these settings.
RA Agr. 140, Hys. 50, MinMo. 0.15, DEC Agr. 100, MinMo 0.15, Scope Max RA 200ms, Scope Max DEC 500
After you change them, you recalibrate and see how the guiding behaves
you can set the reactive weight very high too
140 as said above
reactive weight is basically agression for PPEC
they work fundamentally the same way, just different names
Worth a shot imo
Just did I will let you know
I will try that aswell thank you
Also increase the exposure time to 1s
Sorry I was doing this
i tried to look at the milky way in backyard an hour ago since i dont even need dark adapted vision to see it normally but uh
light pollution here is so goddarn bad that there is NOTHING
no hint of it whatsoever
also have you gotten a good calibration yet, and how long have you let it guide for?
Yes I have gotten good ones where it doesn’t say anything and well it totally has been guiding for a little over 3hrs
😔 praying every house disappears in a 50mile radius 🙏
@tight lodge its doing about the same not bad at all about 1 flat
has it?
I said a couple things there
have you changed the correction algorithm at all in the last 20 or so minutes?
okay
you can probably boost the predictive weight too now
to 60 and see what happens
then 70
I put reactive to 140 lol lets see what it does
you can change the guide rate too but that will mess up all of your current settings, making them too aggressive or too lenient depending on how high or low you set it
i wouldnt do that unless you cant bring the RMS lower than 1 soon
i dont have a darn clue as i dont know what software you are using
to run it
Onstep
if that mount runs through onstep, i cant help you
yeah i dont know onstep
not familiar with it
Dang
Ok, 1 is better than 4
For sure
@harsh matrix Well I have made the conclusion that ppec is worse than hysteresis
I think
Unless I have screwed up my ppec so bad
it's possible
supposedly ppec doesnt work on harmonics but that's not true for the am5n's or am5's
hysteresis may work best for a juwei
I reset the ppec settings its good now 😭
the heck
maybe you did mess it up

By not as good as the other one
i dunno how that would be
Hovering at 1.00-1.50
what was hysteresis doing?
I'm gonna let it run tho
0.60-0.80
do that, give it some time, if the RMS never falls, hysteresis is probably the way to go
Ok yeah will do thanks
that's funny though because my guiding was much worse with hysteresis 
funny how that works
Your ra motor is different
Or maybe its your dec
Idk lol
Different mounts behave differently
@harsh matrix Now ppec is better
Like they change all the time
But ppec remember those big spikes and correct then later the other one doesnt
yuppers
exactly why i said use PPEC
it will correct them before the RA can run away
Yeah but I still go from 0.8-1
Maybe its a lost cause? Idk I'm getting tired of wasting clear nights
And somehow my cgem does better haha
But you swear the cgem tripod will make a difference?
it will but you need to iron out the guiding before you will get a better idea
where is the predictive weight rn?
50
raise it and see if it improves
Ok
to 60
By tens?
Could it be that the problem that the mount wasnt moving the scope till you put the counter weight on have anything effects on what's happening now like maybe its not enough power to move that direction idk
and then to 70 etc.
Not sure
see what multiple of 10 provides the best results and then stick to that
Ok
let it run for like 2 or 3 minutes each change
sometimes it can look good initially and then it can get really bad
or the opposite can happen
Yeah
it's trial and error at this point to get the RMS down
For sure I will play with the settings and chill
Che k cloudy nights to see if anyone else had the problem and see if there is a fix or something
Nope there is not much user support on this mount
i think there's a full blown Juwei tribe on cloudy nights
might be worth looking around there
especially if anyone has guide setting recommendations
of course monitor the mount while you browse
dont waste a second 
Going up to 60 had brought my Ra rms down .10-.15
holy crap
try 70 and see what happens fuq it
-.20
To about -15
It fluxes you know how it is
@harsh matrix Buttt but but I just looked back my cgem did 0.57 tottal 😭
good god
id keep it there tbh
where is it hovering rn?
RMS wise
0.6 to 0.7 is about the limit of the TC40
Now up to 1.00 smh smh
with an RC
uh oh
At 1.20 now
You know it doesn't look bad but Its all my Ra going up number wise
Back down to 0.85
well yeah
the RA is doing the work
if your PA is good the dec does fuq all
Only if I do 1s exps
oh interesting
0.5 second exposures are much less tolerant to seeing
is it windy?
Not at all
Why PHD2 us so stripped down for you?
You mean like no graph
im wondering as well

You mean the graph??
that
and it gives you access to all the min mo settings, weight settings, etc on the bottom next to the gray box
normally
Fixed
Increase Hystory from 20 to a higher number, usually it helps smooth down the guiding
dec looks real nice
It is quite chilling
that hysteresis value is on the dec
not the RA
Ok
Or I mean dec is fine but lets see
You know @harsh matrix I think this mount is not it sadly 😔 maybe I should still get those bolts tomorrow and try the other tripod? Or just go back to the ol cgem? If you believe I can get better than 0.57-0.70 with it I will still grab the bolts and try
what has it been averaging the last 20 ish minutes?
0.60-1.20 big fluctuations
kind of sounds like oscialltions to me tbh
are there locks on the altitude knobs?
looks like there are
are they locked?
and if you didnt move it to solid ground or put it on some sort of pads, that could be a problem as well
cause youre running a heavily unbalanced load on soft and uneven ground if that's the case, and that is likely to cause you no end of trouble
That’s what phd2 says
I thinking that the mount might be swaying couple of microns over there
he put it back on the TC40
so it would be swaying in the legs themselves if it's on concrete
Yes but the Dec does move still a little if you yank on it
I did the math a while ago and 0.4μm equals to about 0.5arcsec
jesus
that would explain why the TC40 isnt terribly stable
Huh
okay did you put the rig on solid ground?
Yep
Concrete pad
okay even better
are you still guiding near the celestial equator?
I’m on m16 so I think so?
okay you are for sure
that is the hardest spot to guide at by far, and it's going to exaggerate any sort of movement in any part of the system
that would be part of the wild variations
iirc, when i was shooting horsehead with my RC6 on the TC40, i was getting huge oscillations like you since that is near the celestial equator
for sure
worth a shot
if the rms falls and the oscillations settle down a little, this tells me it is the tc40
Yeah it follows the same path ish
Try even closer to zenith, doesn't necessarily has to be a target
Wow wow wow wow my Dec at 1.20
dafuq
well there ya go
Haha
Stright up?
I forgot what they all mean
yes
What target
Yes
M16
Waited all year for my baby to rise
looks like people have achieved very good RMS numbers with the Juwei 17
no sign of settings though
And some unlucky

ive heard that too
hell yeah
But seeing my graphs I have my doubts I have a bad one
You were just saying you thought it was a lost cause 😭
I mean but then you said oh your at m16 you are gonna have fluctuations
Idk
Never done m16 every with any of my Astro stuff
So humid and high clouds this time of year for Nc
I might have another hypothesis on the oscillations. It could be the flex spline... uuuhm... flexing under load. So it kinda acts like a spring when it gets corrections from the motor. Mayne you are a bit too unbalanced?
Possibly and with the TC40 already having flexture it could be exaggerated even further.
My guide chart says I have no “backlash” and vel said if you were unbalanced it would show up as backlash
Maybe
In Dec
Ah
In RA, it wont know
Was it acting like this with the predictive weight at 60?
Like what
Oscillating over time
Alright
Is the current calibration deemed bad by PHD2?
It wont work on that part of the sky
PHD2 forces you to calibrate at the celestial equator
Where is that
Like as low as I can go?
I’m so confused when it asks that
Roughly the same line that M16 takes through the sky
Oh so like where Cygnus is now?
Ohhhh steluriam shows me
But wait
I reguided on Pac-Man nebula and this is what I get
@harsh matrix This is huge
See
My ra is doing better than Dec 😭
That tells me what I need to know
I bet it will still oscillate like crazy but at a lower frequency
Its getting higher bruuuuu
Thats almost exactly what I was running in to before I did away with the tc40
Back down nvm nvm
It would not sit still
So you are saying your am5n did the same thing?
Yes
Yes
Im going to bet that its even more likely...
Yeah so go grab that hardware tomorrow, swap everything to the AVX/CGEM and then try again.
Im almost certain your guiding will be instantly more stable.
So I need a 16 inch 3/8s screw and some wing nuts?
Well if so it only will cost me a few bucks
Threaded rod not screw
Yeah yeah sorry just default in my head
2 wing nuts and 2 washers of the same thread
Hell yeah
If it wasnt something flexing, you would have stable guiding
So something is flexing and im betting its the tripod since thats what I found.
Yeah I bet it too as you had the same one. And the juwei 17 btw is amazing built quality
Everything else is the same as my hardware basically so im not eager to point the finger at anything else at this point.
Yeah that’s what I’m thinking
Well ima image! Let’s goooo
This is great to know that a lot of things affect your guiding… ALOT
Instagram worthy
Too much 
@harsh matrix Your right you have to be right look at this
They both go up almost the same every time
For sure 🫡
Well you see a giant dip following the spike too
Almost every time
Btw once you're done for the night, send me the guide log
How
I can tell you the exact period of the periodic error and then you can put that in.
Ah ok cool
PHD2 stores guide logs in the documents folder on your computer I believe
Its a text document
Ok yeah yeah
iirc oscillations will beome more intense the closer to the meridian you get too because of the bendy legs of the tripod and the uneven load on the mount

so dont freak out if you check in on it later and you have giant spikes over 2" in size

Did it happen to you when you had this tripod?
i am exaggerating the size but yes the oscillations got so bad on occasion that i was getting 1.1 to 1.2 RMS

That’s exactly what I’m getting

welcome to hell
it's not a big issue when you dont have a 20 pound payload that is super demanding on guiding
but the second you need to have better than 0.7 RMS with a super heavy payload, yeah that tripod is going to throw in the flag
Hehe
Man well that’s depressing
Uh oh my rms won’t go down
holy mother of god
120
Oh haha yeah it does great in ha
Like 80-90% if i remember
Dude my rms is back horrible
Get one
give it a minute
it should chill out depending on how upset it is
Sell the 533
never
How long were the up and down periods?
random length
unpredictable
part of what was so frustrating
@tight lodge appreciate the 585 mono tip 🤝
Sometimes minutes sometimes short?
yeah
I told you is the beat
it's because it is carbon fiber
carbon fiber has a little bit of give
steel has no give
Yeah... CF tripods are the worst trap to fall in
CF is about as rigid as a dry noodle
and then pair that with a 20 pound unbalanced payload, ignoring the weight of the counterweight, mount head, counterweight bar etc.

ITS STILL AT 1.00
is the graph still sort of up and down up and down??
ohhhh yes it is
well see how it's consistently off in the positive direction, and when it finally corrects, it falls off into the negative direction
that's what i was seeing
it would not lock around 0
Your right
it was constantly way off in the positive or negative direction, never stayed put
not to mention, the dec is moving too
Every time it touches 0 it goes down


