#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 9 of 1
And you would need that more expensive lens anyways
i wouldnt say far but cheaper yes
It is far far far far far cheaper
i was looking at possibly getting a FF DSLR or mirrorless used
FF is like a 10k investment
I mean yes that would be better than an aps-c DSLR
I'm talking about mono astrocams
If a landscape is not involved imx571 >> any DSLR you would get though
At 14mm though that's landscape

donut isnt terribly obvious in this data 
im going to bank on proper back focus fixing it
Going back to reality (not mono landscape) any half decent DSLR with decent Ha response + something like a sigma 14 or 40 doing mosaics is going to outperform something like a z6 on a rokinon 14mm
okay, interesting.
Having less sensor size is not much compared to having a much slower and more aberrated lens
Those old sigmas go for $600 used these days
I shoot my sigma 40 on my d5300 at f/1.8 and the stars are fine, on my qhy268m I have to go to f/2.8 but then it's corner perfect
I've migrated to shooting with the qhy268m over the DSLR though 
Is this your data?
Yeah
so the ring of death is gone?
So after two nights of dark sky data, I cannot under any circumstances get my HFR below 4.5 or so
No
It was there
But mostly in the red channel only
For some reason...
Also @vapid patio this is my fix for the baffles sliding down the tube
Some clever electrical tape patching around the bottom most baffle
so odd
haha i did the same
Taped it after pushing all of them forward
again same
if it works it works
I just had an idea as to what may be the cause of the ring of death
It's concerning, but not impossible to fix by any means
I'll share my thoughts once I've put this thing back together lmfao
haha ok
all im thinking is somehow misaligned somthing in your reducer
Shouldn't be the case since I'm far from the only person with this issue
And HPS was able to recreate it.
how?
same reducer? or same scope?
Using the same scope and I think the same reducer
Somebody on CN had the exact same thing going on too
Okay
oh so its apateuras fault?
I've just confirmed what I suspect
No GSO's
newer gso?
What i think could be the issue is something Zegery pointed out to me about my quattro
Age was irrelevant
you have link? i would love to readit
They were able to recreate it on a new and old RC6
I don't right now
so what is it
Look at my quattro and look at the very front where the white part meets the tube
There's a light leak there
I didnt believe him
I checked, and sure enough there is.
I thought
Well what if this could happen where the primary mirror cell meets the tube on these RC's....
Same thing happens.
I have to put electrical tape all the way around the outside of the tube where the tube meets the primary mirror cell
If this fixes the issue, I finally figured it out.
THATS AMAZING
You would think with how these pieces go together that this would be impossible.
so even with no reducer would i see it?
Turns out there is still a leak
Not sure tbh
yeah it still sounds weird
I think the reducer makes more of the secondary be used, or visible, because of the back focus
And so you're seeing the outline of that leak, maybe.
Thats my running theory.
oh well i do have a dew sheild and it covers a good bit of the front end of the scope
hm maybe, but you have been able to reduce it, maybe seal off everything
The front end i don't think is a problem, where the 2 pieces meet
Because if your knife edge baffles are positioned correctly, light cannot make it it the primary or secondary from where the 2 meet.
I will try whatever I can think of at this point
I will kill this problem.
what if you took like a big peice of cardboard and wraped it around the scope and tape it down. just for a test
maybe thats dumb 🥀
Why do that if I can patch it with electrical tape

fair
yurr stars🔥
They are not great...I cannot get my HFR any lower
hows seeing
I think I'm seeing limited
and cloud popups
Clouds were not an issue last night
It jumped around like crazy but it never went below about 4.6 last night
sometimes it spiked as high as 5.5
ouch yeah, when you did auto focus what was your whats it called rc squared?
I am focusing manually
ah ok
I'll get an EAF once I get an extra focuser assembly to go with it
No an entire extra focuser since I use my RC for visual
Ughhhhhhh
That was NOT the cause of the donut
It really is something to do with the way the mirrors interact with a reducer.
This is the worst.
My flats look slightly better than they ever have, so thats a W.
I guess I'll experiment with back focus on the reducer anyway since I have to.
ah ha so we back on reducer
it's something to do with the interaction between the mirrors and reducer, yes
i am going to try to calculate a per mm reduction factor to calculate my desired reduction
but i thought you took the reducer off and it was still there
and then im going to take a flat when i achieve that spacing
nope
it was gone when i took the reducer off
what was weird is it came back without a reducer when i went to the point of back focus/focus where the scope would focus with a reducer on
so it's back focus dependent, and the reducer amplifies it
but whatever it is, seems to be the mirrors.
having extensive math knowledge is incredibly useful in this hobby
that's the reduction factor per mm of addition back space i add on this reducer
i could have this backwards so i need to think through it rq
NOPE IT'S RIGHT
I graphed it

the actual reduction rn is 0.7814 or 78.14% of native focal length
the graph is approximated, and incredibly accurate
this is 55.5 mm of back focus in the x coordinate, y is the reduction
in % of native focal length remaining
So you need more back focus to decrease the amount of this ring?
or to eliminate it entirely, yes
luckily, i need 84.5 mm of back focus to reach my desired 0.67x reduction
and I THINK that's enough to eliminate the problem completely, but I will not know until i try
Ok bet well keep me updated
call it 83 mm
my graph was too approximated, i just made it more accurate
the reduction per mm is almost identical to the astrotech reducer
it's slightly different, but not by much
Im not gonna be perfect ima just go 75-85mm and get somewhere in there
Throwback to when I was an OSC user still
Very obvious donut here
Shooting reduced too.
This is a strange looking structure but there's not an obvious donut.
I suspect the one sided bias is because most of the light is coming from one side since this room is poorly lit.
If this reaches focus, the issue may be gone.
Praying 🙏
Remote desktop is so much better on an iPad
alright here's the control
taken before increasing back focus
this was right after
all 3 versions that i took after vary wildly
dunno why
then there's number 2 after increasing back focus
and number 3
i havent done any ABE on these
in that same order left to right after ABE
clear difference
they all have an STF run on them too
so the back focus theory is gaining traction
again i think the local variance, and extreme variations in illumination across all of these is likely due to how limited i am indoors with taking flats, i suspect sky flats will look way better, but that donut persisted regardless of how well illuminated the sensor was
Yeah, these flats look a little rough sky flats will be 1000% better
and ofc, since i disassembled the scope to fix the knife edge baffles, i think collimation could be slightly off too ofc so that may be another factor in illumination evenness.
But this theory is definitely getting somewhere
but it's clear the increase in back focus yielded a much flatter field right?
all 3 of my post back focus distance flats were taken using various lighting methods and conditions too btw
Do you do star collimation?
yes
How long does it take you? I’m nervous to do mine lol
10000000 times easier than doing bench collimation
Fair
i can take anywhere from 5 to 10 minute to like 30 minutes depending on how bad it is
when i first got my RC6 it was so bad i didnt know what to do
took me over an hour
but that wasnt really my fault
Still, that’s not even too bad
the scope got sent to me being way out
no
typically you are adjusting the secondary
the way you can tell is based off of the shape of the defocused disks of the stars
Is there a Nina plug-in that helps you?
if theyre flattened out in one direction or another, you adjust the primary to fix it
no i use sharpcap to adjust the primary
and live view on a very bright star
Why not Nina?
the instant feedback of sharpcap helps me a lot more
and Nina tends to slow down my mini pc when im pumping in a high volume of frames
Yeah, that’s fair
Well, I will defocus on a star next time I want to see how good or bad my collimation is
normally i do pretty short exposure but to gauge smaller movements of either mirror, i bump up the exposure and kill the gain to even out the disk a bit more which gives me a better idea of how close it is
sure
i can probably help with that assuming there are adjustments to be made
Good idea
seeing will distort the disk of the star like crazy in weird ways
Ok bet i will let you know. Wanna maximize my mono setup you know
things that may look collimation related are often seeing related
Yeah, I could definitely see how that can make a difference
hopefully my calculation is wrong but i calculated my point of focus to be 90 mm from the back of the scope
that means removing at least one spacer and maybe by tilt adapter which could make things worse again
well maybe not we'll see
i forgot theyre both the 25 mm tubes rn and not the 50 mm one
oh right I forgor about deconvolution
Well it looks like I gotta recollimate my scope
I was wondering why my stars in my Abell 2151 image looked like they had chromatic aberration. I guess I have coma - not enough to be readily visible but enough to cause the stars to become visibily chromatically separated after a meridian flip
how does a unfocused star look?
Why it looks out of focus? But the difraction spikes look in focus? What's this sorcery?
Bad seeing probably
Gotta dig through my lights once I'm at my main PC
ok no problem
This looks bad
Nightmare fuel
I took it out for imaging...
No adjustments or anything
I'll have to have a look
What bugs me is that the coma isn't uniform throughout the field
Oh actually maybe it's the tilt adapter that's the issue? I'm not sure if this is just tilt though
could be actually
The one thing I will note is that I took the blue subs before a meridian flip and the rest came after
And I had trouble because apparently my mount did not know how to guide after the meridian flip
Here's a raw lum sub before the meridian flip
@frosty shard check all your thread adapters and check your tilt plate for sure
Oh yeah look here's my tilt after the meridian flip
Unfortunately I don't seem to have kept any lights that have defocused stars, but I'll give it a closer look next time I'm out
I might have to switch OAGs...the Askar one doesn't thread in and uses set screws instead
Which I'm guessing is causing my imaging train to sag
thats odd
Can you do this after a session?
I never checked my tilt
SIRIL has tilt and aberration inspector tools
Siril?
Don't tell me you use 🤮 🤮🤮🤮Pixinsight🤮🤮🤮🤮
(I guess I can't strike through emoji? lol never knew that)
Ours is just fancier 
is that good or bad
Vel told me that this is good
haha then its 99% true
Very small deviation across the field
how can i use it?
Facts. I've never seen a dude nitpicking his OTA as he does
@harsh matrix we lowkey glazing you rn
real
howw can i use that tools whats it called?
FWHMEccentricity
thanks
Hmmm I think I could write a tool to do this
@harsh matrix Have you done a mosaic?
I feel like at our fl a mosaic on say m33 would be so so sharp
For me a 3x2 mosaic would go hard
No
It is.
What
Oh ok
I've done a 9 panel mosaic of Andromeda and 2 panel of m33 
OSC too so mono will be even better
I got TPN on Astrobin with this photo.
RC6 and my 533MC Pro
I shot reduced to fit it in and no mosaic
I can fit the entire galaxy in the frame of a 571 and my reduced RC 8 as well 
Can’t wait for Triangulum season
Ok then I'm gonna cook
Real beepbeepbeep
@harsh matrix Was this with your rc6
Yes
No
I did this after getting my Ares-M
It's NIR + Ha
Ah ok sick
Just swapped my Dec pins on my Wave 150i from the stock hand bolts to hex bolts. Hopefully that solves my backlash nightmare
it fix it?
or waiting to test it
It'll probably be Friday when I get to test it
No
thanks vel
@harsh matrix ok so if i have 80mm from the reducer to my sensor ok that's fixed. Does it matter where it is in the compression ring as long as it can reach focus?
Does not matter where in the compression ring, that is correct.
I'll be testing my config tonight as well assuming it isn't magically clouded over.
One weather app said its going to be cloudy all night while the other with satellite data and imagery says it will be clear, with the clouds dissipating right before sundown on the imagery.
Plus it was starting to clear out when I headed to work, looked beautiful about an hour and a half ago.

letsa gooooo
lets go bro i cant wait to see if it gonna be fixed let me know
also im stupid btw
already with no extra rings i have 112.5mm of spacing 
to my sensor.....
so i will be getting hopfully a 863mm focal length heheehha
@tight lodge i will be about your fov with my new setup

How?
I may take the quattro out for a bit tonight as well since thats also ready to image.
I just have to make some final collimation changes between the RC8 and Quattro before everything is finalized and ready for the calm before the "storm" of imaging that will start some time this week or next week whenever this moisture finally clears out.
you know the big ring that goes into the back of your rc right before the focuser?
Quite nervous but very excited
Yes
haha i feel you
That doesn't count as back focus from the reducer to the camera sensor
i don't have it on and found it in a box today lol
so point is to get in focus i had alot more spacers on
yeah
Oh so you had too many spacers on?
let me send photo
Yeah you have to take out the 50 mm spacer to reach focus with the reducer
oh wait i cant
the big ring?
Ah
Yeah thats right if you have more than 50 mm of back focus with a reducer on the RC6
I'm hoping my RC will reach focus without taking one of the spacers out
I think I'm completely screwed if I have to take one out.

why?
Because i think that will make the ring of death return
Although i had what I thought was too much back focus at the time when I shot that M33 image
And while the raw data looked pretty bad, I don't think it had the ring of death
There was some calibration or lack of calibration funkiness going on due to the dark current of that camera interacting with the bayer matrix though
That cooked the background so badly that only MSGR could save it after 32 hours of exposure
What may prove it is if I go plate solve my M33 image against my Ghost of Cass image to see what the focal length of both is
Then I can determine when I reduced my back focus, because the ring did appear for that Cass project
andd you are also gonna be useing the 571?
I'm going to use my 533 on my RC mainly
To reduce the load on the primary and reduce flexture.
I'll use the 571 from time to time for sure though
primary?
Primary mirror
Because the load on the focuser is transferred into the primary mirror which induces mirror flop to a degree
571 is gonna cook on the Quattro
Very much so. 
hm ok never noticed it
Small OSC sensor
ohh yeah fair
Especially at native, you would never know
A fully loaded mono set up with a big camera, big wheel, and big filters will be noticeable
Particularly when shooting reduced.
uh oh
The effect is minor with my mono 533 rig, and downsizing the wheel and filters will reduce the effect further.
Yeah and the 585 is even narrower
You likely wont even know.
plan to buy 1.25 zwo lrgb also to save money and weight haha
i know 1.25 is not future proof but im gonna have 585 for alonggggg time
Thats why if/when I end up sharing screenshots of raw data from my RC8 or RC6, sometimes you can see my stars look almost triangular in nature
The weight of my filter wheel + filters is taking a toll on the mirror.
It's also a great camera
It will pair very well with the redcat too
can you not just tighten it down? "may sound domb"
Those filters are horrible but you'll get by
im stockedddddddd for nir with my redcat
Since your skies don't suck so much unlike mine.
then what?
not doing Croma filters
Doesn't work
Antlia is the best choice by far
let me see price
I bought once and I cried once
I love them though
1.25" is much cheaper
Especially if you can find a used set.
yeah and im just gonna mess around with my crappy narrow band filters first and use my astromik uv/ir for L data
so i will have some really good L data i feel like
BTW Touptek's filters are way better than ZWO's
At a fraction of the price of Antlia
@vapid patio
i have heard they are so trash
sorry i restarted my pc as it decided to not let me click on anything
oh they are 130 wow
they have a transmittance of 98% so much better than zwo loll
Somebody here in AB is testing them
I've seen on Cloudy Nights that the filters other than lum may leak IR, but they perform exceptionally well outside of that.
I think I'm going to ask said reviewer if he can corroborate the IR leak claims to see if they are true or not, or too see how often it happens.
There's some speculation that it could be an issue with older batches of the filters.
Like early production models.
yeah and im just gonna use my astromik for L i wish i didnt have to buy one tbh
Normally an IR leak wouldn't be an issue but for a 585 it's way more sensitive than all other sensors available.
Yeah same
Achieving spectacular results in astrophotography relies heavily on the Luminance channel. The key is to maximize signal while ensuring optimal color correction. Astronomik's new Luminance filters address this, offering various spectral window options. The L1 filter suits systems free of chromatic aberration, while the L2 is ideal for most optic...
i have this one
nice little flex 
It's a good filter
The good news is you can probably sell it for quite a bit if you end up choosing the Lum filter that comes with your mono filters instead
i bought a doublet with horrible CA and pinched optics and the dude who i bought it from felt bad and bought me a filter lol haha
Lol
eh i dont see a reason to sell it just keep it as a really good lum filter
its some of the best glass if i remeber right
NEVER gonna buy a dublet
buy once cry once. it sucked for the price
I wont either unless I'm using it visually
even then i got my rc
@harsh matrix how should i go about hooking up my minipc on my redcat 
i just was thinking like where should it go
You could buy a little finder shoe for a guide scope, and attach it to the tube ring for the cat on the right side of the scope
That means finding a bracket that'll work though
so you need to take one off or add one
Took one off
Adding more back focus consumes the back focus available in front of the reducer
May need to take another off 😭
join the no big ring club
This is bad because I used one of the rings as a solution to my light leak

Light leak from the focuser
Um things just got a whole lot weirder
aw man how
nothing tape cant fix 🥀 😔
There is no sign of a donut or any broad illumination inconsistency...
But my camera is way closer to the mirror than before.
So the reducer can manipulate the size of it?
size of what?
size of what?
size of the circle of despair i assume

Beautifully collimated once more
so then its going good? @harsh matrix
Yeah at the moment I would say it is
Metaguide makes collimating these things so easy.
A stupidly useful software tool yes
should i get it?
It only works on mono cameras as far as I've been able to tell so its a good thing you swapped off OSC
Absolutely
i really need to wash both my mirrors like good lord it gets to a point
I believe so
There's a ton of videos online that show you how to clean a mirror
Okay im just confused at this point.
i dont like the idea of useing like dawn haha
How did apertura calculate the proper back focus for this reducer to be 55 mm, and then not realize the math was wrong
I still have to plate solve for the real focal length
heheheha
im just too good ig what can i say
@harsh matrix There are 2 different kinds of drivers i can get What did you choose?
hm also a guideing software? looks legit
You need the direct show driver or whatever its called for your camera
so you mean just the normal drivers for your camera?
I do not
The ones you are thinking of are the Ascom drivers
There's a direct show version too
I'm assuming you bought a mono 585 from ZWO
They have a direct show driver on their drivers page.
@vapid patio @runic violet @frosty shard @tight lodge DONUT SLAIN
before, for reference

proof is in the pudding
i removed the gradient and there is no sign of a broad structure in the sub
there's now some tilt for me to tune out of it which will hopefully be pretty simple
AND!
no donut here either

after extreme noise reduction
normally if it was here, it shows up after noise reduction
Or optolong
Maybe im trippin but looks like its still barely there slightly shifted to the left tho
Normal gradient
Well this is amazing! You can actually take a photo now
Can't wait to see what you can do now that the circle of despair is gone
Then ive said nothing
my AM5N actually averaged less than 0.4 RMS last night LOL
yayy good for you smh smh
im getting 3.80ish 😭
tuned up some mount settings and phd2 today so we will see
@harsh matrix you know the Guide Rate on mounts?
mine was 25% for some reason 
Lower than default settings 
@tight lodge I was deconvolving my SHO moon image incorrectly. Still having trouble getting the layers aligned though
Yes ish
Yo how much back focus you need “all of it”
That doesn't make much sense
How i mean i changed it
It will make guiding adjustments 25% the speed of your tracking
Thats what it means
25 is slow
I know what the guide rate is
I just don't know how it was that low
I don't think PHD2 let's you guide if its that low
Im confused aswell so i went and brought it up to 75%
Whoever had this mount before me must have been slow
@harsh matrix should I just go ahead and knock out my bias and darks?
you can do that right now. just put the cap over the camera and you can take them. Just make sure that when you shoot you have the same Gain and Offset and temperature set up
Don’t I need to take darks with the reducer?
no
Darks are mostly for the sensor
Same for Bias
But if I look it up, it says too
I guess it might be helpful to take one to check for light leaks? But darks are about eliminating read noise and thermal noise in the sensor
What pattern?
when you shoot dark and bias frames you want to block all the light from reaching the sensor
I'm waiting
Interesting
Nope, native FL
Sadly this is a vel question
Yes
Definitely not.
The reducer has no effect on what is effectively quantum behavior in the sensor itself.
Whatever source said you need the optical train to be identical to how it is in shooting conditions to take darks has no idea what they're talking about.
Flats are the only thing that need to be done with the imaging train in the exact same configuration as it was during your imaging time.
Darks are temperature dependent but the temperature does not matter anymore once you add cooling to the equation.
Considering you can almost always hit that -10 or -5 C threshold, depending on what your summer weather allows for you to pull off consistently.
heh it's dropping down to 6°C here at night still so my cooler gets to slack
my dew heater does not, humidity is too high
ok thanks man
THIS LUM STACK LOOKS EXCELLENT

best green stack from this scope
it appears that i have a primary mirror movement to make
oopsies

dang im still not quite at the calculated focal length either
at about 0.69x reduction
close enough
f/5.5
not bad at all
2.36" stars
really not bad at all
This is your FOV uncropped? 
yes
Well that's just insane
I might have to try the Ring Nebula again. I only saw it once. But never tried to image it properly
i saw it quite a few times
it is one of my favorite visual objects
i can see clear structure and color from my bortle 8 backyard
it's probably insane from bortle 3
CO modulation doing its thing again
I saw it trough a cheap 70/900 with a 25mm eyepiece and a 2xbarlow under b4/b3 sky
got some outer shell in the red channel despite no noise reduction 
only ~55 minutes per channel except in lum
i did broadband too to strain test the system as best i could
i couldnt find it with my frac like that
i bet that's the same one i have
Skywatcher frac on an EQ1 mount?
oh yeah i probably needed to redo my filter offsets cause the focus looks wonky across each channel, whoops
ah no it's not
i have a Celestron Astromaster 70AZ
i can bet it's not any better
awful scope
I doubt there are any differences between them. Other than the paint😂
yeah probably
no way
a flat background
for the first time
with an RC

in bortle 8
Look at that lil guy
ik

it needs more exposure ofc
Is a single RGB combination ?
it's my full integration of RGB
i dont think im going to use the lum i picked up
i only got 11 minutes of that vs the 55 per channel of the rest
I know, I meant to say if is a 1xR, 1xG, 1xB
interacting pair in the bottom left
not a single frame
no
unless i am completely misunderstanding
ddint have enough frames to drizzle 

@harsh matrix do you have a quick list of instructions for fixing the donut of death?
(tbh it would be nice if we could get a mod to pin that in this thread)
I haven't been paying attention much since I'm not currently using a reducer
i do but the issue is that i dont know what reducers have/can cause this issue so i dont know if it would be useful to very many people
looks like a halo
sharp
Did you run BXT on it?
i think that one was correct only
@harsh matrix what lrgb set do i get
looking for used bc your boi broke asf right now
aim for antlia LRGB-V Pro, 1.25" ofc
if you cant get those, aim for a touptek set if you can find one
well if i get 1.25 then i need adapters
well you said you were going to get 1.25" gear, no?
like 50 bucks of adapters i saw
filter wheel, filters etc.
no my filter wheel is zwo 5x2
i understand that but i got the impression you were going to downsize
if you arent going to downsize, that's going to complicate things
you can still make money back by selling your OSC only filters too btw
sold
took 20 min haha

if you are being forced to purchase a lum filter with an LRGB set, and you already have an APO frac (redcat 51) and a reflector with no CA, then I dont see a reason to keep it, personally
that's why i sold mine with my doublet.
I dont think that's justification alone tbh
fair
if you get a high quality filter set, that doesnt matter anyway
like what?
should i go smaller oag?
i mean filter wheel
filter wheel
filter wheel
or will that make trouble when i go bigger sensor
I think you will get your best bang for your buck by doing that tbh
it will give you trouble
sort of
thing is, you can swap out the filter roulette in the 1.25" filter wheels
I think all of them
to a 31 mm unmounted and 36 mm unmounted roulette
can i not swap out the wheel on my 5x2?
so in the long term, it makes the most economical sense, especially for you
i do not believe you can "downgrade" the 2" filter wheels
but you are welcome to research it
yeah its a no
oh well
so whats the plan? sell filter wheel and filter buy new filter wheel and filters?
you might be able to get upwards of $200 from the filter wheel
essentially enough to trade it in for a 1.25" filter wheel or one of the 36mm/31mm ones
but like i said, you can always swap the roulettes later
im thinking that
oh my firend said if i get a 36mm unmounted filter wheel he will give me his SHO set
it's painful, it's annoying, it's going to slow your plans down
but at the very least
its all 7nm
it should cost you less in the long run
zwo haha
oh god 😭
but good price 🤑
Combined, these filters produce stunning images reminiscent of those the Hubble Space Telescope capturedThe ZWO 36mm Narrowband Filter Set comprises OII, SII, and H-a filters, each offering unique insights into deep sky phenomena. OIII filters capture teal-hued emissions from planetary nebulae and supernova remnants, while H-a filters reveal the...
is he giving them to you for free?
or selling them to you?
he says use them for aslong as you want and when you have the spare money pay me back "200"
honestly, that might be the play
i dont think those are great filters, but it means you can do narrowband imaging while you wait for a good deal on LRGB filters to come up
so sell 5x2 filter wheel. get 7x36mm. get his filters. OR
wait
@harsh matrix
the lord loves me

you are one lucky mf
hopefully you can sell it at a good price
btw, Nick, the mod here has 1.25" LRGB optolong filters
but where do i get the new filter wheel?
i dont know how much he is trying to sell them for though
look for a deal on CN, or look for a good price on a new one
ouch
Touptek's arent priced terribly
i think they are super cheap
🙏
in stock
@harsh matrix so sell uv/ir? right?
yeah
honestly
if at all possible
try to get the touptek LRGB filters, the 36mm ones since you are going for a 36mm filter wheel
and hopefully you made a decent amount from your other filters to make that happen
110 from my crappy dual narrowband filter
100 for my astronomik i hope
and 200 from filter wheel
not sure there is any other way to get SHO and LRGB

if youre fine with narrowband only
at the same time no
haha yeah
it's a good thing the summer is about here
real
just looking at your options, it seems like this is the only way you get both in a reasonable amount of time
your right, thanks bro
still gonna try the cam out tomorrow
i really hope my rducer doesnt give me trouble
if it does ima quit astro
still get get lum data
assuming your back focus is right, it shouldnt
Just want to show y'all an example of what my Bahtinov mask focus looks like - there's no serious issue with this right
That focus is sharp
Well now I guess I need to figure out what ain't sharp
Did you shoot the same star without the bathinov mask?
@tight lodge I tested out the new bolts on my mount indoors (it hasn't been clear enough to actually test the guiding) and the OTA feels way, way more rigid
Unfortunately I did not
So hopefully I'll be able to resolve the Dec backlash issue. In my M11 image the stars looked elongated along the Dec axis so I hope that's the cause and I don't need to mess with the collimation
After all it looks fine visually
Have you ever checked if you are oversampled?
I think I am
very most likely
The pixel scale is 0.477 arcsec/pixel, and for an FWHM of 2" for the stars in average seeing, I should be able to get just over 4 pixels FWHM?
You can test that. Next time do a 2x2 bin, if yours stars get in a better shape then that's your cause
This is the best I could manage of any sub I've taken recently
I should also add, NINA's Bahtinov analyzer plugin chokes on this and can't tell if it's in critical focus. I'm actually wondering if this might be due to the fainter diffraction spikes from the OTA
Is there any wrong backfocus?
Just more back focus more reduction right?
damn, that's amazing
no
correct
fr
But too much = softness and coma?

When are you gonna do first light with the new camera?
Tonight 🙏🙏🙏
Wont be a color photo but plan too 🙏🙏🙏
Guys
Chat has spoken
I'll grab some Ha to pull out more of the outer shell
Tonight
Unfortunately this weekend might be ruined by Canada
It's a conspiracy, I tell you. It's not wildfire smoke. It's the Canadian bacon industry trying to cover up their smokers
@harsh matrix If you free and bored join vc 🔥🔥🔥
I told my Canadian friend that they need to tax the carbon coming from those fires
He said they already are 💀
Never mind 

What did you think happened?
for some reason I took some spacers off the end and put them between the reducer and sensor
I must’ve done it without realizing it when taking it apart for the fifth time lol and it made the spacing 100 and something millimeters in no matter what I do I couldn’t reach focus
All good now yippee
do you have correction algorithms selected?
those RA oscillations almost look periodic in nature
What
My dec is reset switch and ra is predictive pec
what is the predictive weight you are using?
50
there's absolutely no reason my EQM-35 should be wiping the floor with your mount unless celestrons are just that bad
try bumping that up iteratively
but give it some time until you notice changes
by intervals of five?
yeah
Ok
to be fair, it’s very windy
How old is that Mount?
o
maybe you should do it on a less windy night
Still had to get out here and just learn a good bit
almost 2 years old?
idk when it was assembled though
joizuz

Now that I have my filters, new mount is probably next on the list
Got it for a great deal could probably sell it
@harsh matrix Currently 5am. So all nighter I stopped bc the sun came up lol
Got it down from 4.00+ or error to 1.00-1.50 or error
And I have to get up in a hour lol
Got smoked out tonight, RIPperoni
Lagoon in broadband from last night
the data is pretty scuffed and i didnt take flats yet
still, very pretty
Just straight RGB? Any lum/IR?
no lum or IR
straight RGB
the H-alpha and H-beta + Oiii is more than strong enough to carry the signal on its own
Both
Yeah, that's utterly stunning - I gotta give this one a try later
wont do IR until i start getting some clear breaks again and whenever this thing isnt rising after midnight lmao
IR needs a lot of data, and even on Lagoon, that is no exception
I gotta wait for these wildfires to calm down sadly
Last night was supposed to be excellent weather, but Vega looked like a 3rd magnitude star
fr
I just want to see if I've managed to fix the Dec issue with my mount...it feels like it but I need to see the numbers
btw @harsh matrix are you using ASTAP to plate solve? If so what database do you use?
I've tried seeing if switching from D50 to D80 would help reduce the number of plate solve failures, and it does a bit, but I still have some troublesome images
i switched off of ASTAP
i think im using platesolve 3 now
How in the world did you get platesve 3 to work
I'd have done this, but one of my goals is to set up an entirely freely licensed software environment to do my processing and AFAIK it's not freely licensed :(
wait really?
maybe im not using plate solve 3 mb
i need to check again
i might be running astap
all i know is that whatever im using never fails to plate solve
By freely licensed I mean open source, Platesolve 3 is a free download
ah
I write software quite a bit for my research so I like using tools I could contribute back to
What
I'm guessing that's due to the overall blue color + H-alpha emission?
strong He II emissions
AND H-alpha emissions
WR136 is magenta
this isnt some kind of color calibration error lol
I'm gonna have to figure out how to take a spectrum with my rig
fr
i really want to invest in some spectroscopy equipment
lmao if I could get away with just sticking a giant diffraction grating on my aperture
i have to be honest
reflectors do yield much more natural colors right out the gate
doublets screw everything up
The doublet murdered those poor stars
it did that and completely baked the color calibration
I'm gonna repeat it. This is why Reflectors are the kings. even if you don't color calibrate, you get good colors
every time i color calibrate reflector data, it hits just the right way

Right? No histogram adjustments nothing. It's just right
And let's not forget the stars being pinpoints
Ah
Plus, I want to see some frac dudes resolving these stars on Crescent nebula
Ignore the hot pixel next to them. That don't count
True
Bwoah... I need to put some hours on the crescent 
My 4" frac split those
They just look like garbage by comparison.
You could park a bus between each of them in the RC pic
Oh yeah there's 5 stars not 4
So the frac didnt split all of them

Raw resolving power at its finest.
The advantage of mirrors. Big aperture for not so much money
Even the old DSLR I was using before resolved them better
This is the full image by the way :pepe3:
Ah yeah you can see 5
Reflectors ftw
ignore the weird stars... i did a bad SHO with no filter wheel or drawer. i had to manually remove the camera take out one filter an put in another and pray that i put the camera back in the same orientation XD
Was the original data taken with an OSC or mono cam?
OSC
I feel obliged to link this CN thread:
https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/867680-loss-of-color-diversity-in-lrgb-photography-when-the-filters-do-not-overlap/
Not that you can't get great color results from mono RGB (especially if your goal isn't precise reproduction), but I'm tempted to get overlapping RGB filters to see if it makes any major difference
my RGB filters only overlap with Green and Blue
Often there's a gap between red and green to avoid the sodium D line. I think this is going to be less important over time as cities transition to LED lighting
Astronomik does make overlapping LRGB filters
Yeah, same for LP filters. they are mostly obsolete
yes, because they are photometric filters (They have halos because of that)
Though not entirely - I've actually had some success with viewing brighter galaxies using an LP filter. Though I wonder if you'll get similar results out of a minus green or minus yellow filter
I did not know that that was a thing.
Tbh I actually do like some astrophotos with star halos, so depending on what I want to shoot and how I want to shoot it, maybe I'll get some filters that intentionally introduce them
i was looking at Baader photometric filters to get some continuum IR filters 
Expensive, but maybe I'll get a full set of Baader filters as a graduation gift
UVBRISHO in 1.25" + CMOS optimized H-beta in 2" for visual observing
Honestly at that point...maybe I'd just get a whole 'nother filter wheel
Interesting palette
Yeah, I feel like it would be really interesting just to shoot UVBRI on nebulae
The CMOS H-beta filters are absolutely crazy though for visual observing. Apparently like 4x more H-beta targets are within its reach compared to a standard 10-12 nm version
The California Nebula may be within reach of the naked eye from my Bortle 7 skies with that filter
I never had the chance to try an Hβ filter, nor that I've seen a picture taken with one
It's not meaningfully different from H-alpha. Unless you want to quantify dust extinction, in which case it's extremely useful data
You know, now that I think about it, I'm actually a little surprised I haven't seen dual band H-alpha/H-beta filters be produced
FireHDn got some really weird filters. He doesn't want to give too much information on those, which I understand... but I'm really curious to see what he got 
Oh I really want an He-II 468 nm filter...
dual band H-alpha/H-beta would be ideal for OSC users who want to maximize H-II SNR, and really that would also help out a mono imager too
My neighborhood and surrounding neighborhoods still use old sodium street lights so this is still very helpful to me
Yeah, here in Madison the skyglow is still pretty yellow from sodium lamps
@harsh matrix Call?
Got my filters
They are $150 less than everywhere else you can get them
And low-key from a sketchy seller
@frosty shard you too gang 💔
which filters?
Lrgb opotolong
I spelled that wrong
They seem to be legit everything is up to spec
nice
theyre not great either but better than ZWO afaik and will serve their purpose until you can get something better down the road
for sure
mr pickles has the same ones
my favorite test for L filters is putting it in front of my phones face id and seeing if it stops it from seeing my face
same reducer
hehe
honestly
i see one on CN
kind of tempted to gnab it
for 120 bucks
@harsh matrix do filters normally come with maybe a little it of dust and maybe tiny smudges?
or mabye me talking to the filter on accident
yes
mine did and they were brand new
💀
antlias
What filter is gonna be on the lucky spot?
Probably Ha
But I wanna do Hoo so Ima come up with something
HαGB
Does that work?
I was just thinking
Yes.
Iike good? Lol I have no clue what the data looks likes
It's a good way to go around it. Although, I recommend HαRGB
I can do Hargb
Well...hopefully in the US of A here soon 🦅 🇺🇸 🦅
okay actually I do need some clarification: how do those adapters differ from these ones:
https://www.highpointscientific.com/apertura-focuser-tilt-adapter-for-6-and-8-rc-telescopes
Use the Apertura Focuser Tilt Adapter with 6" or 8" Ritchey-Chrétien (RC) telescopes to fine-tune the collimation for outstanding astrophotography results. By installing this adaptor, which helps eliminate sensor tilt, you can ensure sharp, distortion-free photos across the field. It can be use with most RC focusers, and its sturdy metal cons...
I assume it doesn't decouple the focuser from the primary mirror?
I'm just trying to wrap my head around the mechanics
You can just buy it from TS
It'll probably eventually come to Agena though
It does not
It's just a tilt adapter
What's the mechanical difference, does it attach to a different part of the OTA?
A tilt adapter doesn't fix anything
It just allows you to tilt the focuser with respect to the primary mirror cell
But the mirror will still flop with the weight on the focuser
The decoupler actually decouples it entirely, and isn't trivial to install
@tight lodge found out i have been shooting through smoke for weeks now
Damn Canada
No wonder in no moon the sky is still bright
does this decoupler still permit the collimation of the primary mirror when in use?
i guess it says it is?
although i just noticed the collimation screws on the RC10 are in different positions from the smaller models
the decoupler for the RC8 might be different in design from the RC10 example which is the only one with pictures...
if it's screwing onto the rear threads, im not sure how it's decoupling the focuser from the primary either unless somehow it's transferring all of that weight into the rear of the scope instead somehow
It probably is






