#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 4 of 1
im impressed by packaging. that apple-esque sliding box. i got sticker and magnets
i will say the glass looks better than the sharpstar .95
It was hard to discern, maybe M51 will be easier
that's not terribly surprising
M51 is really easy in dark skies
you will probably see structure in it too
Only visually just saying
Why we cut things short
fuqn ell
yeah my stuff frosted up too
it was still such a surreal thing though
This is the only time I have to use a dew shield on my RC, as my secondary will frost up. Oddly enough, during heavy dew nights it doesn't get dew on it.
Also we got the Antennae!
locked on to no stars, so there was no movement to track
classical Cassegrain?
Credit card
No I got new .75 coma corrector
For my newt 
IMAGINE NEEDING A COMA CORRECTOR
-# THIS POST WAS MADE BY RITCHEY–CHRÉTIEN GANG
Lmao
TRUE

Cygnus has some of the coolest Ha structures
on a massive scale too
@thorny path this is why I can do long guide exposures lmao
periodic error basically doesnt exist on my AM5N
i got lucky too

that was the problem 
2-4 arcseconds? Man, I'm gonna have to see what my Wave 150i is capable of, but I doubt it'll be that good
my gem45 is around ±7.5 arc/sec (a good bit better than my gem28) and 10min subs on both while guiding aren't an issue.
i might have to fire up the minipc to check guidelogs and see how bad my guiding is though
cem45?
gem
it exists wtf
i was looking for a cem40 but this was available so i grabbed it
Ah
dunno what my next mount will be, but it'll be on a pier instead of a triopod. 😅
cem70 is what i was thinking if i went to a big 10" RC
im getting a 8" RC
or even a ... edgeHD 11"
the cem40 would handle the 8" RC, but as far as future proofing. i dunno.
but I gotta few months for them to come in stock
cem70 is definitely my choice right now but idk
I'm gonna go with the flow

i was thinking of getting a nexstar 6se for a travel visual setup. so i guess my next mount would be that silly thing
Wait....
A RC 6 only costs 550€?!?!
Holy fuq
Gonna sell my swsa gti get a heq-5 and replace my redcat with a rc 6
:[
Probably have to sell my redcat for 300$ 
And the rc 8 already costs over a thousand
JOIN US.

My fellow RC enjoyer...have you considered an RC6 :)
(Idk what mounts you have but my RC8 + Wave 150i is far closer to "grab and go" than I ever expected)
i have a gem28 and gem45. the gem28 is 'portable' in that it easily fits in my mid sized sedan, but not quite as much as the nexstar would be
To be clear, not a serious suggestion, the Nexstars are pretty compact
I'm still debating whether I'd pick an RC over an SCT for purely visual use
Perhaps for planetary work, but at the same time I'd probably pick a Maksutov over an SCT for planetary
i'm leaning to the sct for visual and planetary. the central obstruction for the sct is 14% by area, whereas the rc is 20%
i was looking at marks in my 8" rc and had spikes 😅
mars*
I got the RC because it can do pretty much everything reasonably well - I don't foresee myself getting a dedicated visual 8" scope for some time
i have to travel for anything half serious for visual work. otherwise i'd have at least an 8" dob
This is true. I've wanted to test apodizers or other methods to reduce the diffraction spikes
But overall I'm fine with them
they don't bother me, i wasn't expecting to resolve anything in the eyepiece looking at mars anyway lol
Were you able to see any detail?
The ice caps were easy at 125x, but that was near opposition
The other edge that the RC has over the SCT is that I can drop to 38x with my 42 mm eyepiece (5.25 mm exit pupil)
Then again I probably am in a weird spot with preferring Cassegrain scopes but also wanting to use low power
nah, didn't see any detail
i only had my 25/32mm plossl out, and the 10mm luminos(?)
it's supposed to be clear tonight, and down below freezing. seeing is below avg, as usual. not sure if i wanna take out the rc8 or just the little frac.
For imaging or visual?
i don't have a nice mid range 700-900mm option for frac, i used to but i sold it. now i just have my at80edt with the .8x reducer at 384mm lol
when you mention freezing temps I am reminded of this
Though I was literally in a marsh so humidity was ridiculously high
i also have stupid high nighttime humidity
although tonight it seems tame, nothing over 60%
tomorrow night back to the normal 75%
Got my oag lads
Since i have a 3/4 sensor i will have no problem with having to lower my prizm more
@harsh matrix I got my oag to focus on a far tree but good lord all night i couldn’t get it to focus in a star. Could never even see a out of focus star
I was doing 7s exps and 70 gain and couldnt see the slightest hint of a star
what guide camera do you have?
Did you put the OAG in front of your filters or behind them?
Tangential: have any of you attempted to use your RC for terrestrial purposes?\
An SCT or Mak is objectively better (and more portable) but I just love the idea of someone going birding with an astrograph
I have no filter installed
I think my asi120 is not sensitive enough
And my scope is at f/9 so yeah
@harsh matrix you're moving away from an ASI120 due to low sensitivity, right?
I intend to, yes
M81
And alllll around
I'm gonna point it at the cancer star cluster tonight and see
HOW CAN YOU GUIDE WITH IT
Oh i couldn't really get guide stars around M81 or M82
I got lucky one night and had really good transparency and that's how I was able to guide I guess
The problem with guiding near galaxies with the 120MM and an OAG is that the brightest stars are barely above the noise floor of the camera
I also had to crank the gain up to 95 to be able to guide anywhere close to galaxies.
This is probably what you need to do if you haven't already @vapid patio
And make a darks library for the guide cam in PHD2 while you're at it.
Those 2 things will give you the best chance.
Dark library, I have never understood
Do I just take darks?
And ok will crank the gain up
@harsh matrix
You can make a dark library in PHD2 by clicking the dark library option in one of the drop downs on the top left of the program UI, iirc.
That will take the darks for you and you don't have do do anything beyond clicking a couple of buttons.
I use asiair but same same
Oh boy
Idk if you can do that in the ASIAIR and somehow I forgot you used that even though I knew
I think you can do it
You'll have to look it up
It does but it should take darks for every exposure time you tell it to take them for.
Is your imaging camera in focus?
@vapid patio
Okay
Where in the optical train do you have the OAG
Is it the very first thing after the imaging camera?
Or is there a filter drawer and then the OAG
I had to get the OAG as far ahead of the imaging camera as I could last time I shot at native.
I also had to push my guide camera as far in as I could get it
Theres a small spacer
If you dropped the prism too far down, it could be causing your problem.
The 11mm ring one right?
Something like that anyway, might be 6.5 mm mb
Don't remember
Yep
Yeah that's too far back tbh
Without the reducer, i wouldn't have been able to reach focus if I had the OAG there.
If you have a filter drawer, you want the filter to be as close to the imaging sensor as possible anyway.
Yes
Is that the ZWO OAG?
And do you have any of those extension rings that came with the 120MM still installed?
i use the little extension even on my sedna-m to get my oag in focus. it's a pain sometimes. i have one guide camera that i move around between three setups 😅
That should work
Filter drawer
You gonna have to find focus with the imaging camera again
And hopefully it's not too far in now
Wouldn't be the end of the world if you swapped the OAG and the piece after the drawer

@harsh matrix
Get ready for a kiss my boi
I got stars baby
Definitely need a higher sensitivity camera
Yeah for sure
Now you see my struggle
Guiding on galaxies with like, 5 SNR stars 😭

@harsh matrix is differential flexture variable or sm
ik u said u got it at 60s but i was doing 120s subs fine, now suddenly i cant do 60s without minor trails and the guiding is fine
It depends on the altitude of your target iirc
So yes, it can change throughout the night.
But differential flexture is an issue if your guiding is good but your subs consistently trail
thing is my target is near its peak so its altitude isnt changing much
and this is why my asi120mm will perpetually live in one of my bedroom drawers
It will live on my red cat
Yeah, no way I’ll be able to guide on faint galaxies
😭
Same
You can if you get lucky and find a few bright stars near them.
I've been lucky a few times
Depends mostly on the orientation of your OAG tbh
those look a little out of focus.
do you use the 120mm in bin2 by any chance?
@vapid patio this is also what I did to help the SNR
If you enable binning, you'll need to remake the darks library though
Only downside
i think i found the most sharpened sct image in the history of sct sharpening
it looks like he painted that with acrylic paint and a sponge
i was about to say "wdym its not bad"
then i clicked on the image to zoom

bribe whoever owns astrobin to remove that image
i suggested it for iotd
yep! and i didnt really try to get in focus
and clouds
only took 5min
big RC

This has inspired me. To only upload deep fried images to astrobin
So do i turn it on then remake darks?
And i dont have the cap for it what do i cover it wity?
you don't have the cap for the scope or the camera?
if it's in your OAG just take darks in bin2 with the scope covered, it'll be dark unless you have a light leak
oag just came in
idk how far in the prism should go
its right above the sensor, or about but still
maybe too far in
You won't know until you have to focus it. 😅
Oh well
@analog portal what does it look like? If your prism is covering the sensor? Or casting a shado
But darks is optimization of your sensor not imaging train yk?
I misread that.
even bigger RC 🥳
I thought it was guide camera spacing, not prism
I only mentioned the scope since it would be easy to not remove the camera to take darks.
Puuurty
where is this big boi held?
Forgot to share this with y'all. This is my scope wagon – how I cart my RC around town
Strain wave mounts my beloved. That's 10 kg of counterweights I don't need to haul
TRUE
Well guys, I really wanted to take the RC to the B3 skies to see what it could do...
But...
The seeing there this weekend is complete trash despite excellent transparency and little to no clouds.

So I'll take my RedCat 51 and get a legit first light with it.
I want to get IFN around M81 and M82.
Then I may shoot some Ha after I get back home to add to M81 and M82 
100% you can do in a night
My first night redcat and asi533 in my b3/4 backyard i was able to do it

BTW it's looking like I'm going to have to clear nights there
So I'm planning to stay for 2

I'll be even more impressed if I get another night on em
Also tomorrow might clear out here at home which means I might get to trial run my system, redcat and all before I go.
I'm so excited to see the first full image 
GEORGE coming in clutch with the not oversharpened SCT image

never fails
I didn't even order anything. 🥹
Good God Almighty.
It’s those little thread things
What?
How much backspace do you need
A lot
ah yes
the clouds here around north georgia are most certainly caused by the fact i have a .5mm spacer on the way, + a used 2600mm (arriving monday and tuesday respectively)
i wont be able to use the 2600mm for a good while though so atp these clouds are here out of spite
Backfocus lover 🥰
rick creatin
Riche Crétin
Rickey Creating
rich cretin
rich eating
rikte criten
Rike critn
@frosty shard i took a look at the coma cluster
I'm certain I saw the 2 brightest members of the group and averted vision revealed like 20 or 30 more diffuse blobs.
That was crazy
Through the 6"?
Also i looked at M51 while it was at zenith and I could see every part of the galaxy clearly
Even the dust being thrown off into the companion
Through my 8" dob
ah
I'm in very dark skies rn
SQM last night put it at firmly bortle 3 when the conditions were best
Conditions were and are changing very rapidly.
So I'd say it was more like bortle 4 on average last night
The most amazing view I had was through a 16" go-to dob up at Cherry Springs. I was looking at M101 as if it were EAA

I'm an idiot and I forgot to look at M101 at zenith
But I could see the spiral structure
When I looked at it when it was at about 30 degrees
There were some monster scopes up there, and a few were kind (brave?) enough to let others take a peek through
It was partly cloudy though so it was not an ideal view
i had a measely 8" sct to keep me busy while my rig was running
I did look at Bodes around 50 degrees and saw it like it was EAA

Cigar was very much similar
It wasn't hard to see why they call it a cigar
i never got to really do visual around home. just planet staring.
Visual at home after experiencing these skies actually just makes me depressed
I don't think I'm going to bother with it much anymore other than to look at the moon or the planets.
indeed. i thought it was cool to see fuzzy galaxy cores and didn't think much else was possible. now i don't even bother trying.
it's raining here now, and suddenly i'm even more depressed 🌧️
I knew it was possible to see more than cores, thought the cores were cool too ofc.
I just didn't really believe it lmao.
Now I'm disappointed i didn't try this sooner.
every time I open this and see veloren talking abt how good dark skies are I get more sad🔥
i will never be able to go to a dark sky, not for a few years at least
As much as it's nice to go to Bortle 2 skies and see thousands of stars naked eye...I think visual astronomy is still worth it in the city. Especially if you can share it with others.
I can see globs and some bright pn (with the uhc filter) from my b6 deck using the RC. ofc the bright orion and lagoon nebulae as well. i never got into the 'star splitting' stuff.
I was out at a Bortle 4 site last night, and I actually managed to spot the honse haed galaxy with the 8" RC and SV240!
my bad backyard seeing 
send your scope out to me "trust"
like look at this @harsh matrix 2s exp i dug up
2 seconds??!? 😭
yeahhhhhhhh idk how but aye somehow
let me see
those sorts of skies are really hard to be exhausted of.
for real. i love just looking up you can reallllly see the milkyway
hehe
Canon 600D
and i got it full spectrum modded
i had no UV/IR cut filter for these 2 nights since it doesnt fit with my 24 mm lens which i used for these shots
my other option, a 75-300 mm, is too cropped in for what i wanted to do but it would enable me to use the clip in uv/ir cut filter i have
so i gotta cope with some pretty gnarly stars
at the minimum, i got the galaxy. That's really all i cared about
I suppose that's a competitor to the Evoguide 50. I'll stick with my goofy 60mm f/4 achro and fma180
But better – you can stick a diagonal and eyepiece in it too
I have 25x70 binos that are better
280mm focal length, more aperture. not ed though, but who cares for visual at that wide a field?
and i can use both eyes lol
Clear skies Saturday 
i have a shot tonight, that's about it. not much to do with it.
I got the Askar since it really is the maximum utility I could possibly achieve:
- The primary reason I got it is because my Orion 8x50 has poor eye relief and fixed crosshairs, so it's not a great experience (as in it's scratched my glasses by now).
- I find myself using my finder as a rich field telescope relatively often, so it's nice to be able to swap eyepieces.
- It can still double as a guidescope or wide field imaging scope (once I pick up the EvoFF reducer/flattener).
I probably would have been served better with a pair of binoculars as a visual observer, but this thing can do pretty much anything I need it to.
I'll probably pick up some proper binos in the near future
I can only use my binos if my contacts are in 😅 pretty much all visual has to be done this way. my eyes aren't the same, and i can never focus the binos w/o contacts (or glasses, but that's rough).
I've gone to great lengths to ensure I have long eye relief visual equipment everywhere I possibly can
Alright since my guide cam is finally coming in...what should I image first? I'm going to be stuck with a stock DSLR for the moment
I'm thinking of doing M65 and M66
DO IT
or M81 and M82
btw the redcat shot this
This seems to frame pretty nicely
love the scope camera combo 
VERY in my humble opinion
Actually I just realized I have to shoot these
I'm planning on sending my first astrophoto with the RC to my friend in San Diego for her wedding
When I was in San Diego with my 8" SCT, M65/66 was my go-to deep-sky object of the spring
Lots of good memories
then do it for sure
@frosty shard did your Xena-M ship yet?
Yes finally
are those the colors you were aiming for?
lmao
its 12hr now
your friend nuked the green out of that process, making everything blue/gold/orange instead of red and some magenta/purple
oh on the reedcat image?
yours, i dunno what you did to get that, maybe add some blue/green saturation in curves lol?
yeah this one
yeah yeah he knew that he said he will redo it '"never has"
for my rc image???
sounds like the friends i loaned money to
yeah, that pastel looking result is bizzarre
i guess it is nearly Easter though 😉
not by much, if at all
lol yeah i use same folder for everything
which is the final stack?
lol thats in there too
looks really clean. i think this is going to rock
@harsh matrix quick, tell me my seeing is too bad for an 8” rc for galaxy season next year
Ah don't worry about it. Go hard or go home. 2x drizzle your data, sharpen the shit out of it, then resample it down again.
could do reduced
hmmm… tempting…
especially since i’d just need to get the RC, reducer, and probably a counterweight bar + counterweight for one of my mounts
…i think the am-5 should handle it…
i’ll ponder.
alright fine i’ll get an 8” carbonstar with the reducer 
(soon™️)
I'm going with this. 😅 I should walk away before I spend hours tweaking over this stuff.
annnd never mind, that reducer isn’t gonna work too well with a .67 reducer
what mean?
ah
you have some sort of imx585 jobbie?
disregard that stupidity
i'm gonna go eat sunchips and watch tv. ciao
imx571
aaaaaahhhh ok yeah i get it
No
Get one and shoot reduced
It'll be faster than your SVX's 
even on my worst nights of seeing, i came out with solid image with more detail than i would have with a smaller scope
i dont think seeing is going to be as limiting as you'd expect it to be.


but are/were your galaxies this sharp?

small, itty bitty problem
my camera won’t work with the reducer
I think the worst parts about the image dont have anything to do with the sharpness or detail lmao. Your setup is carrying it's weight very well. Looks like you could have a small light leak and you keep getting a magenta bias.
since youre shooting OSC, dont do a full 1.00 on SCNR, do like 0.5 instead
and worst case scenario, you can target any excess green with curves or color masking.
that way you can avoid that large color balance offset that keep happening
wdym?
the apertura reducer?
yeah
my sensor is too big i think
nope
example images on HPS with imx571 images shot with the reducer too
hrm
im planning on getting a 571 specifically to use with my RC
your corners probably wont be 100% perfect if your collimation is slightly off but im not too sure
once you get the 571 let me know how stuff looks
i havent tested my own DSLR on it yet but ive gone around AB and looked at everyone who uses a 571 with the RC's
i havent seen any serious flaws with the combo, if any.
the 8" RC is more likely to support it well over the 6"
and if you get the 8” i’d love to borrow your 6” just to do some testing with it, wouldn’t keep it

it's not if, it's when
i have no intentions of having a 6” reflector 
and tax return day is coming fast
except for testing

but yeah its either an 8" RC or i get a TS-optics f/5 newt shipped over from europa
can you uncouple the mirror from the apertura rcs?
btw i keeping the reducer and stuff when i get the 8"
idrc ¯_(ツ)_/¯
a guy on CN was making deouplers for the RC's
since the 6" works less-well with the imx571 i'd prolly test it native
he probably can make one for you if you inqure
oh nice
well im only assuming it works less well
i'd probably look into upgrading the focuser and doing that decoupling
i dont know for sure atm
touche
mostly because of the size of the mirrors
but the secondary is fuqing huge
it probably can handle APS-C unironically

when i get the 8" there's several upgrades ill have to make to the OTA and focuser to be very happy with it
there's some "bugs" to fix with the 6" that im just not necessarily sure i want to invest the money to fix quite yet.
mostly because i want the 8" and ive always planned to sell the 6
im not worried about timeline here since I'd really like to use it for galaxy season
nebulae can be handled by the svx rigs no problem
but i'll hold off on final decisions for when you get an imx571 + 8" with reducer
Thats gonna be a while, just be aware. 
not an issue, the double svx rig will probably be perfect for a while
id just love more reach for galaxies 
(714mm fl copium)
Light leak?
I dont see any
It's just that your background isn't very even, that could be because your DBE wasn't as good as it could have been
Rob's attempt at your data doesn't show any signs of one so I might be mistaken.
You'd be extremely lucky if that's the case.
Never seen it on any other photos
Look at my link i sent
DONT SCARE ME
Oh i know why
I made a weird mask
You had a problem with light leak?
this seeing forecast uses 11-14" aperture equipment as a guide
It does not I can show you the results
You should not trust images in the age of blurx
dunno what other apps/sites use, but smaller scopes are less impacted i think, looking through less of a swath of atmosphere
There's no reason to anyways because the starizona apex 0.65x is almost perfect
And it does actual field flattening unlike the 0.67x
the ccdt67 keeps the field flat also
It's just a reducer it does not flatten
When you use it you're relying on the inherent flatness of the RC
that would explain the operative word "keeps" in my statement.
I should also say I have the results for the ccdt67 with imx571 osc and the 6" RC
Which is better than the 8" but still a bit meh
Correct
It was good enough for the lunar eclipse I failed to image but I wouldn't use it for dso myself
The images I've seen with an APS-C on an RC aren't bad at all as far as flatness goes. Only the extreme edges had some elongation.
Nothing totally unacceptable imo.
RC native?
It may have been but I think it was reduced
I don't remember now
Been too long
Thats excellent though as far as flatness.
That's important because rc native is much more lenient for obvious reasons
Either way I would not consider the 0.67x for anything larger than the 533
Cause the apex exists
Also secondary point: the RC6/8 becomes mildly unusable with imx571 mono due to the sheer weight bringing the decoupling issue without the focuser tilt adapter
That can remedy it a bit but you will constantly struggle with changes in altitude
Of course if you fix that problem then it works just fine
what do you mean by "decoupling issue"
The focuser is attached to the primary mirror on GSO closed tube RCs
So if you have significant weight/fov you can start getting miscollimation that's altitude dependent
Basically mirror flop
ahh.
You need to either get a truss tube RC that has no such weakness (10"+)
Get someone to machine you a decoupling adapter
Buy an existing decoupled RC on the used market
i get that with my player one artemis-m pro and filter wheel 😦
get a tilt adapter and accept the consequences
Or just use a small light camera like the asi533 where it's not that apparent
Less weight, less fov
The 10" also have problems with the stability of the optics but it's an entirely different set of issues
Iirc they have legit mirror flop and not weight induced "flop"
Wdym
No matter what you get, there's always going to be a trade off
10" closed tube or 10" truss
I mean some issues are worse than others
The decoupling thing basically costs $500 to fix
Fwiw I have a decoupled 10" closed tube and it's the best imaging instrument I have
I might br thinking the closed tube mb
The truss tubes do come with focusers which are all total garbage
You have to budget one of those in no matter which one you pick.
all of these focusers are the same and they're all pretty garbage
you can kind of get them to work for 533 osc but its not optimal
The carbonstar one is slightly better than the rest though I suspect it's also not very good.
And it has bad light leak problems.
it looks exactly the same
i don't see how its better
they've added some curves to the 1.25" to 2" adapter but that's about it
oh and the knobs are different
but this is the "linear bearing" design
very much improved
For getting auto focus offsets with an OAG. Should I turn off guiding ?
Carbonstar RC
Not newt
It's different on the RC.
BlurX did something really bad to the details but the colors are fantastic and the background is great.
I can fix
Do it 
Yes
I was under the impression that they were the same, however, the tensioner screw on the bottom is not the same at all.
And that's where the main difference is.
huh
Mine and @thorny path focusers have an Allen head screw as well as the grippy bit.
So you can use an Allen head wrench to get extra torque on the screw allowing for better bite and weight handling.
Those marketing pictures have the wrong iteration on them I strongly believe.
You can see how large the head of the tensioner screw is and how it has a divot in the top.
The head in the marketing pictures don't have this for some reason.
Thats not the linear bearing crayford though.
Neither of those are the linear bearing crayford these come with stock.
I'm considering getting one of them in the future if they're better than the stock one but i don't see a huge reason atm.
these are the "upgrades" but they're not actual upgrades
Point is, the stock linear bearing crayford with the upgraded tensioner screw is very good at handling extra weight.
Mine doesn't slip at all with a full mono rig + oag on it.
And as far as I can tell, there's no play in it whatsoever.
I tried to get it to flex or move with my hands, with all of my strength, and couldn't get it to budge.
i don't see how
are you talking about how the screw itself looks?
because that's irrelevant
there seems to be two types of GSO focusers and I wasn't aware of the type that doesn't have tensioners
I remember the 3x3 grid
that's the confusion here
No i mean how it functions
i don't see how this is different from what you probably have
this is the "old" RC focuser
i wouldn't expect them to change from it
it has the ability to tension to be semi-usable on certain setups
They did
This is what it looks like now.
There's a little Allen head screw inside the tensioner which you can use to get extra torque and it removes risk of slippage for moderately heavy mono systems.
I don't have a 571 mono or one of those 6200MMs to test it with a very heavy camera but I do have a fully loaded 7x2 AFW with a large OAG and my 533 MM and it handles the weight incredibly well.
you're telling me you're just tightening the lock screw even more
that's the difference?
i thought you were talking about the actual tensioners
so it is the same focuser as the carbonstar newtonian but with an allen screw
actually no that photo is a newtonian
It's the carbonstar 150 newt, same focuser as on the RC, just a different base plate.
The difference is like I keep saying, you get more torque by using an Allen wrench, therefore you remove the risk of slippage, and you get more milage out of the stock focuser.
Apertura knew the stock GSO focusers were a problem so they added that upgraded torque screw to mitigate or entirely eliminate the issue.
it doesn't really matter because you can buy an allen screw for a few bucks
the focuser seems to have gotten worse actually because there's less tension control, but maybe they were unnecessary
tightening the lock screw has come to the mind of everyone who had that focuser and usually doesn't end up meaning a lot but if it works for you that's good
you were saying differently
i.e. the usual end result of doing so is that you get uneven movement that can end up jamming, because the other tension screws need adjustment first
No the screw on the top is a lock screw
There's a single tensioner screw on this focuser and it's that Allen head one.
Thats the entire point.
what are these
The stock GSO focusers are deemed garbage because they slipped with even moderately sized payloads under the finger tight tension you were allowed with just that adjustment.
Screw holes for an EAF
There's nothing in them.
The rest of the screws hold the assembly together.
yes because you couldn't tighten them without jamming (or what was really needed, more careful adjustment)
getting screws isn't really an obstacle
I can't check rn
But jamming with this focuser isn't a risk unless you're sticking stuff down around the tube on the inside.
jamming would happen due to unevenness between the rail and the shaft, which can happen due to uneven force or misalignment
if your focuser is working that means you don't have that problem
Idk if this is relevant but the drawtube moves freely with that torque screw removed.
So if there are screws in there, idk what they're doing.
Cause they ain't holding the drawtube in place.
There's quite literally no tension on it with that screw gone.
yeah cause that's not what they do if they're even in there
since its not clear to me how these newers focusers work anymore this is what it looks like on the SW focuser
lock on the top, tension in the middle
i think it might be a terminology issue because the "tension" screws are putting the shaft in tension not the rail
you can call them adjustment or parallelizing screws
Thats not at all how this focuser is laid out.
yes its a different focuser
It has changed significantly from there.
This is all the manual says, and again, the tensioner is the wrong screw.
Looks like the same knob as the ones for the compression ring.
that really doesn't matter its just a m4 screw
if you encounter such a focuser you can just plop a m4 allen in it
If it's manufactured in a manner where it won't jam like youre saying they do, and it doesn't already come with on you can torque down with a screwdriver/Allen head wrench, you could I suppose.
If a caveman like me can't make it jam with the tensioner, I don't think this particular focuser jams like the original GSO variant it's modeled after.
Thats how they want you to install the EAF bracket
There's no warning about screws you shouldn't touch on either side of the tensioner like you'd expect if there were screws there.
they would be set screws and usually wouldn't matter, but I'm getting the impression there is no adjustment there and only at the top of the focuser
If by adjustment, you mean the ability to lock it down, that is correct.
It's an incredibly simplistic design
Not lock it down, adjust the shaft
O there's nothing at the top of the focuser.
It has 2 guide blocks on both sides of the rail to keep it in line, and just that single tensioner screw as far as I can tell.
https://youtu.be/B6UipLHfMZQ?si=aMcTWu5LUWfCbXC5
This guy tears it down completely
Clear and easy instructions on how to adjust or repair your crayford focuser to get it working smoothly on any telescope, including the Apertura CarbonStar 150.
Links to Apertura CarbonStar 150 focuser upgrade:
https://www.teleskop-express.de/en/telescope-accessories-5/focusers-adapters-motorfocus-296/focusers-and-micro-transmission-92/ts-optic...
But i think he over tensioned that knob.
The manual says to do a quarter turn of tension, after you get it finger tight, with an Allen wrench
Didn't even realize it said that.
I've been doing a quarter turn this whole time because it works great 
Yeah this one doesn't have roller bearings or anything up there.
I didn't realize you were talking about those deals, normally there are bearings or something there if you see that on a focuser.
Doesn't look much better tbh 😭
Are you still applying blurx after desnoising? At any stage?
Maybe even running it twice?
strange al
Yes @runic violet there's nothing in these holes, they're just to mount the EAF bracket.
Side and top down
IT WAS BLURX AT 13
Yes I did
After denoise
Only ran it once
I run noisex, blurx, add some noise back, background neutralization, denoise again, blurx again. by the time i get done* processing my owl nebula image it looks like messier 63
yes
running it after any kind of denoising at all makes it hallucinate
it's meant to be used once, before you do any denoising, and before you do any stretching
finally just pulled the trigger on the Xena M 
lol i fuqing hope not
part of the issue is my bortle 8/9 light pollution but there's nothing i can do about that 💀
Bigger scope
Bigger mount
Bigger cam
BIGGER
Trust
OK, yeah will do
8/9???
can you even see the moon? 😭
Yes lol
I can only see 3 stars in the little dipper here
Vs being able to see all 7 with direct vision in bortle 3
it's hard for me to see that in my b6 sky, ofc i'm usually not wearing my glasses
You guys make me feel lucky
The clouds are as bright as the moon man
Its crazy
And there is this skyscraper that emits a green beam of light into the sky
Makes northern lights when its cloudy or bad transparency
I love my b9 sky
you should 
sometimes brighter

sometimes at like 3 or 4 am i look outside and wonder if the sun is already out
theyre so bright
when there's low cloud cover here, you could be outside during a new moon and think it's a full moon out due to the city glow reflecting back down.
reason #1 i will never, ever move to a city if i have anything to say about it
you should move to one
it's so much fun
and the convenience is so worth it
…nah, i’m good…
Mine arrived today 
I dislike you greatly right now
when do you think you will get to use it?
I ordered it but it's not going to ship until the 7th at least
cause theyre on holiday

maybe this weekend, but I gotta figure out how I'm supposed to do astrophotography with my rig

I need to use my tablet for controlling everything (I have a Surface)
I don't have a dedicated control PC for my rig yet
First light for the Askar: this was a handheld shot with my DSLR
Handheld?!?!
Yup. Took a lot of patience and trial and error with focusing
But I am too tired to set up my rig tonight
I just realized, once my reticle eyepiece gets in, I am totally gonna use my RC as a guidescope and manually guide some subs with the Askar
HUH 😭
*I'll be taking some subs with the Askar
The only thing I don't have is the flattener, but I can still image without it lol
askar?
Which one
52mm Super ED guidescope
Ah
249 mm focal length
Not as-is, but it'll be a cheapcat once I add the field flattener
It's extremely convenient that the Askar appears to have the same optical prescription as the Evoguide 50ED
so the Starizona EvoFF field flattener works for both
I'd wager the Sky-Watcher flattener would also work
I was kiddin
Well I do plan to seriously image with it once I get the flattener in
TRUE
for those perfect, tasty, excellently corrected images

Why have chromatic aberration when you could just...not
YUP 
In all seriousness, SD doublets can achieve good color correction on par with apos. They're just restricted to only bringing two colors into perfect focus
theyre great for learning AP
I wouldn't do near IR or UV imaging with it, but it's likely good enough for getting the same kinds of images you could get from a RedCat or SQA55
SQA55 has 1 SD and 1 ED
Buy from Astronomy Plus 😼
I noticed a significant difference between my WO Z61 doublet and the AT80 (and 115) EDT when it came to star size and CA
oh yeah
the jump between my z61 & svx102 was immediate
did your z61 have weird star shapes? like, not totally round but almost like octagons?
i used mine with a canon t7i & a 533
this was with the 533
oh
pinched optics iirc
that's a really bad case of starfish stars
my pinched optics before i fixed it
yeah
it was very nice when i upgraded to my current triplet
I bought this dang RC8 for galaxy season, and last year it was almost all rain/clouds and this year so far it's the same. damnit!
i've only gotten my m81/m82 image out so far
it's been too cloudy & rainy 
last year all i got was the needle galaxy 😐
need to get my m63 lum capture done before the semester ends so i dont need to cope with lum in B6
i did try the leo triplit with my newt, but only action the rc got was in may 😅
yeah, im interested to see how my may is gonna pan out since i'll likely be in b6 with half the sky behind my house, so no virgo
virgo is tough for me, the nothern half of my east->west is in b6, southern half is facing b7 light dome
yeah, if i can i may go up to my b4 location for a few days to get a short m104 project done
thankfully towards the end of the month and throughout the summer i'll be working the observatory again & doing research so i'll likely do a lot of my photography from up there in the summer in b4 with all of the sky
ive counted like 5 or 6 large background clusters at this point
there's one pretty large cluster under m81
there's 2 huge ones above M82
I just got done reprocessing that needle data. 5h45m worth.
very sharp 
i had to bx each filter before combining due to the star spikes not aligning properly. dunno if it was the stuff @runic violet was talking about with the focuser/primary or something else.
You should post your raw images if you want a diagnosis
dump a link here?
A screenshot of the issue and of the corners would suffice
there's like 3 here actually
kk
no noise reduction 
10 large clusters
and those were just the ones i masked out so starx wouldnt eat them
are you shooting in mono?
yeah
are you doing blurx correct only on each channel individually?
the b/g filters line up, and the red and lum line up. each was done on different sides of the pier
yeah when i processed it to fix the issue.
running blurX on correct only on the individual channels can cause that
were they misaligned before doing any blurX?
oh no, i didn't read that properly, it wasn't in correct-only when i ran it. i sharpened each filter's stack before combining
yeah the last two screenshots are just the integrated rgb stacks combined, no other processing
it's still going to result in that since you're still deconvolving each individually
well, histogram stretch ...
these ones?
yeah
o
individually brought this result
nvm then guess thats just fuqed
that's thanks to GSO's brilliant idea to couple the primary mirror to the focuser 
so the part on the back of the rc where i screw the focuser on is physically attached to the primary?
such a stupid idea
idk about physically but the 2 are connected in some way
i havent actually seen the assembly yet so i cant say for sure
how bad is it cause i wanna buy one

not bad if you use a light OSC setup with a small camera sensor
a big, heavy, bulky mono setup will be a problem
I do but i want to upgrade eventually
with mono 533 and filter wheel
i have a mono 533 and a fully loaded 7x2 AFW
it doesnt seem to be an issue for me at least
but people with bigger camera sensors struggle more
i am going to be using my 533mc for the time being anyway for galaxy season.
Also if you plan to use your RC for visual, I haven't encountered any problems related to the focuser. I've used heavy diagonals and eyepieces with mine
no plans on using it for visual
i have a 150mm collapsible newt for that
actually maybe I'll use it on the planets since higher fl
why is it blue and orange
did you scnr it
anyways the whole focuser slop thing has nothing to do with color issues
that's imaging/processing technique
that's what barlows are for, better off with the newt there
why's the rc worse?
CENTRAL OBSTRUCTION?
oops caps
CO is quite bad for planetary visually
anyways you are supposed to loop RGB to maintain cohesion between the channels and avoid changes in conditions/seeing from affecting one channel differently
since I image at high FL I loop RGB over and over again, people do more coarse loops at lower FLs
its quite a common issue with people's data
well not quite scnr, but when playing with curves i dialed the green back too hard. basically the same result. 😅
uh.. don't
i had never considered looping. i figured to shoot blue at zenith and red away from the light pollution.
Yeah that doesn't really work
you're deliberately bloating one channel more so getting channel mismatch is guaranteed
coarse mono rgb looping should be standard practice, and fine looping is basically required for high FL work
i will keep that in mind for sure. so is it single exposures in a loop or a couple at a time?
do you use nina
yeah
just 3x L smart exposures than 1x r, 1x g, 1xb on loop
the number of L exposures can vary depending on your preference/target
if i do 2-3 min exposures that's basically looping every 12-18 minutes
and you only dither after a loop not during a loop
thanks for this advice 🙂 i'm going to be doing this from now on with mono rbg imaging.
what is the setup anyways
that was done with my 8" rc + artemis-m pro and 36mm antlia lrgb. off-axis guiding.
bin2, i believe i did have a flattener in at that time
the 2" TS 1x flattener or something
yeah i think that's the one
i took it out after i realized i didn't really need it with the sensor size
yeah it is the "TS Optics 2" corrector for GSO Ritchey-Chrétiens" the scope itself is a carbon fiber TPO one, basically GSO i guess. i have a moonlite focuser on it, but an undersized one. 2" CS version.
is there a reason you prefer 2x2 at native over getting a reducer to go 1x1
i had the ccdt67 and was using it for a while. i really don't like the imx492 in bin1. it might work if i had longer integration, but with the sparse time i get, i really have to stretch it hard in bin1 and you can see some banding.
i should say my imx492
yeah
i have antlias 7nm sho filters, my first set. they have a wierd pattern to them that shows up in flats/lights. i dunno if that's normal or if i got a bad batch lol. i never bothered to find out. usually it calibrates out just fine. lemme see if i can find an example.
the s2 has a similar pattern
this is a well known issue, its what the 294 is known for
spectral nonuniformity
not all the pixels have the same response
it becomes very apparent with narrowband
interesting. these are the sort of things i wish i knew before buying it 😂
its not a bad camera it works okay with careful calibration and sufficient integration
but the imx571 is better 
since you have 36mm filters already you could just replace it eventually
but with imx571 fov+weight and reduction the RC flop might start to be an issue
i bought this as a compromise to the imx571. i had an asi183mc pro and got this artemis-m. it's a little heavier than zwo's model. i knew about the dark flats and amp glow, those aren't a big deal. the nonuniformity though is new to me.
i picked up a 533mc pro and was thinking of biding time with a 533mm pro or being patient and getting the imx571mm 😅 i mean i do have three scopes, technically.
dark flats are necessary because of the nonuniformity thing
it's coming back to me now. i was aware of the short exposures causing nonuniformity, making the flats/darkflats a little longer in exposure length for good calibration. i didn't know it also impacted long exposures.
i've seen some really good stuff done with this sensor in bin1. i think thomas did a lot with his redcat this way.
these issues are a far cry from what the asi1600 was like
or the unholy 183mm
or see see dees
doesn't the asi071 have some strange issues as well?
whatever happened to thomas anyway? nm, i see he's still here
whats bad about it
planets are super bright its not like its bad there
Something about how it affects the airy disk
I said it's not really relevant for photography but that got shot down 
does it affect visual more than photography, yes
is it irrelevant for photography, no
Looks more like lower clarity rather than worse contrast to my eye. 




