#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 3 of 1
does your dec axis still have some friction with the clutch disingaged?
it used to yes
i adjusted to where it didnt have so much that it wouldnt move with the clutch disengaged and with the dec unbalanced
mine was very stiff
mine has none like none so when I try to balance my scope it's impossible. But if I put the littlest friction on the clutch, it stays
mine was hyper tuned so maybe the dude messed with the clutch?
the clutch and the engagement of the drive have no effect on whether or not there is friction with the clutch disengaged
like my other mount sky watcher gti has a good bit of friction when disengaged
yeah exactly
it has to do with how well the dec axis is attached to the right ascension
id say if there is a point where the dec doesnt move with even a tiny bit of friction with the clutch just barely engaged, it's probably good enough
im not familiar with those celestron mounts so idk if the dec to RA meshing is something that can be adjusted/easily adjusted
ok it does a 360 if i let it go. like no matter how i have it i have no clue why
let me look it up
nope
yeah so that means that the dude who tuned it probably had no control over this
it's just being annoying ig
What mount is that
@brisk swift Cgem
Oh

i just realized that the mirrors in my RC havent moved, even a little bit, over the last 11 days 
Maybe i lie
I think i moved the primary a week ago, but that's not it moving on its own.
I haven't had to collimate mine in about a year. It was slightly off when I drove it home (6hrs in a car will do that I guess). Since then it's survived a few local trips and being taken in/out to the back deck.

I was talking to a buddy who has a 10" GSO flex tube jobbie, and he said my star spikes not aligning issue is likely due to focus rather than mirror flop 😦
flirror mop
Does it move often?
normally mine shifts after about a month
but i live in an area with frequent extreme temperature flips, huge atmospheric pressure drops on a regular basis, and I move it in and out of the house regularly
And how would I check it with that cashier eye piece thing
considering all of those things, im happy it doesnt move more often 
cheshire?
Yeah very nice
Haha yeah
honestly it's very hard and will only get you close but i can at least give you some pointers i think
Ok I will save you and I will watch a video
But do I need to get one of those laser things?
They are kinda pricey
Cheshire?
absolutely not
i dont use any tools to collimate mine
i collimate on a star which is easier than it sounds.
Oh cool yeah not bad
it is confusing to get down at first though
i found watching SCT collimation videos to be a massive help
I have a Cheshire for my newt
But I’d say that’s better than any laser and more than enough
Indeed. Lasers only get you so far, you need to make sure the secondary mirror in a Newt is properly rotated. I learned this the hard way starting off with an f/4 system.
I put some time off in the books for next Tuesday and Wednesday 
The B3 site is looking quite promising on those nights, can't wait to experience those skies again. 
I plan to shoot M104 with my RC both nights if things pan out
I had to recollimate mine, but it might be because I was testing Allen keys to see which one would fit in the mirror screws and accidentally turned it a bit too far
Idk if it was even the drop that caused the problems
But actually I just realized that this is going to be an important factor...I've only had my RC for the winter so it's been undergoing significant temperature swings
That's a tough one here, very low on my horizon.
Also I take it on public transportation on a wagon on a regular basis, so I expect mine will need to be collimated more regularly
What's your latitude?
exactly
40-ish
Ah okay I'm at 43 north
Hopefully I'll have my guide cam in Soon™️
I should clarify, my southern horizon is into the light dome of the b7 city glow, and that swims right through it.
it's difficult to shoot broadband below 60 degrees to the south
That sucks. M104 is one of the most luminous nearby galaxies though, so of all the galaxies to try through the light dome that's probably the one
i usually go to my dad's in a bortle 4 to shoot broadband.
Worth
just a few miles up the road, and he enjoys the company 🙂
I need to find a good place to shoot from - both in the city and outside of it
My dilemma though is that if I'm in Bortle 4 or lower skies, I'd rather observe visually
Solution: go with friends who have telescopes
One of my friends is much more of an astrophotographer than I am, so I told him that he can shoot with my RC if he lets me use his Askar 120 APO visually
a buddy has a wonderful night vision setup, so if he's along it's amazeballs
Night vision is next on my list at this point

Especially since you get good IR transmission and no chromatic aberration in an RC
btw my SQM-L and Oiii + H-beta filter shipped
I have one, a 30 mm focal length one that came with my dob
i need to get a dew heater to keep that one and my other one from fogging up while im out there
Honestly I should invest in one too
Unfortunately there's a problem I didn't realize until recently about doing that with an RC
You risk having bad baffle currents with smaller eyepieces
It just acts as a stovepipe and makes the effective seeing horrific
oh interesting
I should be okay with my eyepiece selection though
Alternatively you can use a prism diagonal, but I'd prefer to use my mirror
good luck 
they have to be very bright to show up in short subs
if you point at Sirius you'll have your fun
or any constellation star
Heheheheeh
Yay
Stupid asiair
Glitch smh
@harsh matrix Can you hop in a call and help me rq?
i need to check on my laundry rq but i can after
Ok just lmk I will be in a channel
i could do 60s without guiding haha im just too good
sombraero
i could do at least 450ms
Should I try it?
someone run starnet on this, or post it to the blurx request thread 
yes
i think... i think im him
this post should be renamed to ritch cretin enjoyers thread
Nu
@harsh matrix

It feels quite solid
not me
Are those fishing weights?
when i get an rc if i need a dec counterweight im not just putting a weight on there lol
that is an area that follows tracking, im using that
a dslr is going on there
Weather may not work out at the B3 next week 
Though predictions are generally unreliable >3 days in advance.
I would worry about the mirror flop causing vibrations in the main imaging. I am sure guiding would see it. Now if you put a mirror less there you will be fine.
make sure it's not on vibrate 😂
My RC is still perfectly collimated 
The temp plummeted like 30 degrees over the last 2 days, again.
Have you tried telling the temperature to stop plummeting
i will try and get an rc before next galaxy season, i absolutely hate collimation so this is just another reason for me to get one
YES 😭
IT WONT STOP 
I hate collimating fast newts
When my RC loses collimation, it's only ever small adjustments I need to make.
It's not ever tear down the entire rig and collimate it all over again like it is with my newts.
It's incredibly convenient
Like owning the sharpest refractor you can think of.
I distinctly remember an astrophoto attempt I made where my phone vibrated and all the stars came out absurdly wavy. Not sure if I deleted the image or not
F/5 newts count as fast
the only thing im worried about with rcs is int time
big central obstruction and high f ratio
Collimating at f/3.45 is complete hell
Big pixels (or binning) is the key. It's all about etendue
i have 2.9um pixels
but wouldnt binning get rid of the whole point of an rc?
you lose the insane sharpness
It depends on what you're imaging (and your sensor size). For some objects or types of images it's a fine tradeoff
11.2x6.3mm, imx585
but most objects i like are sharpness based
If you're looking to go deep on something like integrated flux nebulae then binning is probably the move. If you want to do planetary (nebulae) it isn't
like m51 is one of my favorite targets, and it has a bunch of fine details but also many dim bits
Either way, you'll need quite a bit of integration time, and the bigger aperture is only going to serve you better regardless of f-ratio
If your seeing is pretty bad, and you want better SNR, binning is definitely the move
I think the 585 is quite over sampled on an RC too, so it's the perfect opportunity to do it
with bad seeing and a 0.63x reducer would it still be sharper than this?
But you do have the color one.
Maybe you don't want to bin since you already sacrifice resolution with the bayer
What optics did you use for this image?
mono prob wont be for a year or two after the rc
150/750 newt
Honestly, i think so
I shot this at native f/9, 1377 mm and had really bad seeing
My processing could use some work but it's still my sharpest galaxy set to date excluding my current project.
From my (limited) experience just Bayer drizzling is the best option
with OSC cams in general
That requires dithering often enough and by enough pixels to overcome the bayer matrix though
Im pretty big brain but not that big brain 
Not sure what the right amount of dithering and amount of pixels would be enough
I don't think i really overcame the matrix with my 533.
I've done this by hand with unguided exposures lol
I'm probably just stupid in that regard then 
Yo this wind needs to chill out
I definitely sacrificed some field size by dithering by too many pixels (like 50) but that is totally fine at the end of the day
I was doing it on my C5+ mount (manual with tracking), took 18 second exposures, and repositioned the center of the Orion Nebula every 8 or so exposures (shot with an intervalometer attached to my DSLR)
I spent two hours in the cold just monitoring everything but it was worth it
another thing, you think an eqm35 pro will be able to handle it?
An RC6, yes, an RC8, no.
It will handle a reduced RC6 best, but it can just barely work at native.
guided?
Ofc
You and Shady will have to let me know how that goes
I think it would save a ton of time each night if I could guide with a guide scope instead of an OAG
whys that?
I would honestly like to guide with a guide scope over OAG. I wonder if my 60mm is good enough
Idk if larger guide scopes exists
isnt oag supposed to be better
normal scope
doesnt need to be labeled as a guider
In a way, but it isn’t perfect and with longer FL and slower speeds of an RC. It can complicate things
Real
I’ve read of people with slower scopes struggling
Yeah, because guidescopes or their mounting may flex differently from the rest of the telescope
But I've heard of 8" RC and SCT users using guidescopes
Not sure in Veloren's case but I'm guessing it's easier to find guide stars
one of my friends uses a 9.25" sct with a guidescope and does 180s subs i thinik
i have a hard time getting guide stars
and i cant get exposures longer than 60 seconds with my existing guide scope
I ordered the Askar 52mm Super ED so I may try both now that I'll have both
That's got 250 mm of focal length, probably not enough for a native RC8 but I'll try it regardless
how bad is your guiding
mines like 2 arcseconds
that was with my EQM-35
and it wasnt bad
it was consistently 0.67" rms +/- 0.1" rms
oh thats great then
once I get the Starizona reducer, I'm totally guiding the guidescope with the RC though. By hand
was yours tuned?
it was the fact that stars started trailing after 60 seconds of exposing which stopped me from going longer
i have never touched anything inside my eqm35 and i am scared to do so lol
that's a classic sign of differential flexture
no
but i tuned the dec over about 6 months of iterating
finally found a mix that worked, and then the RA died on me right about the time I got my AM5N
I fixed that and the mount works as expected and guides a little better than before so i cant complain too much
i do want to hypertune it to see just how smooth i can get it
well i do have a lot of time before next galaxy season
and that 2 arcsecond guiding was me with no idea what im doing guiding for the first time
Has anyone attempted to remove the dovetail tails on their RC? If so, are there any important considerations I should be aware of?
I may vinyl wrap mine
the top one has been removed from mine
Do you have any issues with thermal expansion/contraction? also do you have a carbon fiber tube?
I've heard the carbon fiber ones may flex in unexpected ways with one rail removed
yeah it's a CF tube
i haven't noticed any flexure, and honestly never thought about that
no issues other than having to refocus when the mirror gets significantly colder
I haven't heard clear reports on it, only speculation
i no longer have the vixen one for the top, and i've never taken the losmandy off of the bottom. i wish i kept the top one though 😅
I just wanted to experiment with other ways to remove the gradient left behind from my light pollution and I didnt want to add the Ha to encourage myself to overdenoise the image again
I added a negative for fun
this is NIRRR lol
near infrared red red?
Anyone who uses a gso .75 reducer can you share a image of your scope so I can figure out the back focus.
this is the best I can get in focus, the oubjects in the background cant get in focus becuase the focuser it all the way in
You should have 80mm of backfocus
What’s your current spacing
Hm wow your quite close
Ok
Add another spacer ring somewhere in front of the reducer dont wanna mess its backspacing up
Is that a astro tech?
What cam is that
yes
533
zwo?
yes
Why is it brown
sun destroys anodizing

the other side is still red
what has me confused is it seams like the further objects get closer to focus as the focuser is in. Pulling it out eveyrthing goes out of focus. background tree branches go further out of focus.
where is the 80mm measured from? the front of the reducer. Maybe I have to much spacing
Back if reducer “where tou screw your camera in”
I wonder if I have to much back focus. I am not sure where the reducer ends. I know you screw in behind it but does it take up the whole bit. Would it be from the back of the last element of glass.
have you tried removing this spacer?
I have to do this for visual/planetary with my RC, as my Moonlite doesn't have enough inward travel to get into focus.
not yet, did this over my lunch break. i work from home
messing with the eaf remote, if I pull the focuser out close objects get in focus.
so either its a issue with the back focus from the reducer or spacing in front of the focuser. What is odd my flattener was fine in this config
likewise. the ccdt67 i used also didn't seem bothered by that spacer in front of the focuser.
I plan to take mine out for room for reducer and oag, i think your right he should take it out
I would assume the 80mm is from the back of the reducer to the camera sensor. that's usually how correctors/reducers are designed.... usually
based on my math at the red line I am 74mm
I did try with a 5mm after the redline but it was even worse with close focus.
when you back out the focuser, do the things get more out of focus?
yes
i suspect it is that spacer on the rear of the ota then.
the CCDT67 (https://www.astro-physics.info/tech_support/accessories/photo_acc/ccdt67-27tvph.pdf) has different 'compression' for different spacing, one of the things i like about it. i often use it at .8x instead of .67x
could I remove the nose piece I have on it and just push the reducer into the focuser?
that did not occure to me until now.
I have something like this mounted in front of the reducer, but what is stopping me from pushing the reducer into the focuser
like an eye piece.
you mean, use the compression ring to hold it in place?
yes
that could work
it might not 'square' your sensor though, sometimes those things are fickle
at the end of the day the compression ring is aready holding it in technically
@analog portal pushing the reducer into the focused worked.
I can fully focus on
glad to hear it 🙂
Yes 
Yes
i look at my RC more than it looks at space
clouds everywhere, almost all the dang time
😭
Imagine dealing with clouds
-# This post was made by west of the Great Lakes gang
But then again it's just too cold and windy
I've made the observation, now that I know what I'm looking for, that right after sundown, and before all of the city lights and street lights turn on, I can see the Milky Way passing overhead, in a vary small strip of the sky at zenith.
It's an unintelligible smudge, just barely brighter than the sky around it.
Can't really see it with direct vision, only averted vision, and there's no structure.

RC or SCT...?
RC
rc ofc
he uses a 6" RC
RC6
Or for the price?
Why?
price and way sharper
like wayyyyyy sharper
weight too
da best of the west
RC uses Hyperbolic mirror instead of Parabolic in normal reflectors
^
the entire field is virtually flat with my 533
id say the resolution is equal across the field for that reason, the stars are tight all the way around the frame
they dont need corrective optics either
I do like that factor about the RC
Bigger field
Better sampling

no blurx or sharpening of any kind provided here
this is just the 6 inch
not reduced, that's important
the right image is NIR and the left is R, stars will be bigger in NIR because the wavelengths are longer
I have noticed that the FWHM is bigger with the NIR filter. The image should still be sharper though right?
yes
in general, ive been resolving some really stupidly small stuff with my RC
things that arent supposed to be possible with a scope as small as my little 6"
and here's my sharpest galaxy dataset (tbh), my current project. left is NIR and right is R, no BlurX or anything but reduced this time
I got the reducer to turn this thing into a light bucket and it never fails to surprise me
I also just expose longer with the NIR filter because my camera's QE is worse in the NIR, it helps overcome the read noise, but causes the stars to grow quite a bit.
Too sharp, put this man away
I use the guidecam as the imaging cam hehe
Better QE in IR
Than the 533
Just for fun, these are the globs the BAT resolved in M82, but by my RC and not doing lucky imaging 
You sacrifice a bit of sharpness for it though no?
there's like 10+ others at least, and it DID THE EXACT SAME THING ON M81 
it wasnt some kind of dumb fluke
very little tbh
with the back spacing correct, the difference isnt very big fortunately
This is sick
20mm?!?!!!
yeah i lost my mind when i discovered those in my data
yeah it came with an extension tube on the back and i didnt know if it was supposed to be included in the backspace calculation or not
turns out it wasnt supposed to be included
Btw here is my first IR test from just a couple days ago. Conditions were terrible
Also banding 😭
Lmao

I need mono imx585
Very very good QE in IR
Anyways good night
I will dream about the sct vs rc war
the bayer matrix of just about all color cameras is transparent beyond 700 nm
it basically behaves like a mono cam at those wavelengths
yes really
Not just the red filter?
My filter filters out everything under 685nm, but I guess that’s close enough to 700?
Yes
this is why im gonna get 850nm
Insane
No
From what I have heard, there is not enough emission in those further IR wavelengths
Just from what I’ve heard though
still why not have it, i can a filter for it for >$20
Trust we will release soon ._.
when is soon
Summer?
ragh
Just dont spread the news
im not
Patience my friend
I just put my AM5N on my EQM-35 tripod
same tripod as the EQ6R I believe
hopefully guiding improves noticeably 
It's been around 1" rms consistently as of late
Can't tell if it's because my guide cam has been restricted to a single star due to how sparse guide stars are during galaxy season, or if it's my parameters in PHD2 not melding well with the AM5N
It was really low and very good when guiding on Rosette though
A nice 0.69" rms tops
It never gets lower than around there though and people have been able to get way lower RMS, I suspect the tripod is to blame.
could be the tripod. or phd2 settings. I look forward to more stars now that I have the reducer.
I know technically they wont be smaller but they will be due to the wider feild of view.
I need to calculate the new focal lenght tonight when its clear.
I think it's probably the tripod and I'm hesitant to point the finger at settings since I've been tweaking them progressively over the last month or so to no improvement.
I've observed the same thing occurring pretty much every night
Some kind of high frequency oscillation...
I keep thinking it's PE, but when I turn up the reliance on PPEC corrections, it still happens but mainly in the Dec.
My PA error last night was like, 12 seconds, something incredibly small.
Happens occasionally in the RA too but less often.
The oscillations persisting makes me think it's the tripod since the tripod may not handle the lopsided weight of my system as well as if it was a solid steel tripod, for instance.
It's like, no matter what it does to correct a movement, it sways too far beyond the right point, regardless of how strong the guide pulse was, which tells me the tripod is leaning or flexing in that direction.

I did that. I got an adapter for it
Heard it’s miles better than carbon fiber one. Not to say CS tripods are bad
Good tripod and leg spreader go a long ways from what people say
My pier extension came with an adapter
@harsh matrix when you were limited to 60s exposures with the guidescope, was it with a 0.63x reducer?
With and without, yes
i have slightly less focal length (750mm), but 180s seems to be fine for me
how come you ran into issues with the reducer at 60s?
he said its cause of differential flexture i think, but i also have a guide scope, a heavier one too, and i dont seem to have those issues
well i have issues with the guiding itself but thats different lol
What’s the guide rate on your mount ?
100%
should i lower it?
im crashing out over it rn 😭
lowering it made it worse
Damn bro what’s wrong with your mount
PoLaR aLiNgMeNt?
what are you using to note those stars?
Nina
i don't get that with my settings 😦
I think it's because it's still around 1000 mm reduced
Differential flexture doesn't really present as a problem until that 1000 mm mark
I have a 0.67x reducer and plate solved it says i have a focal length of 1079 mm
If you look at the design of this guide scope, the one I was using, it's on a long, hallowed out support.
holy crap im actually gonna punch my mount i hate this guiding so much

what mount?
mine isnt very secure either
its drilled into mt ysopce
eqm35 pro
oh
my guide graph REFUSES to stay still
guides like my gem28 often does with avg seeing
Is it balanced well?
Dafuq
ive literally gotten like 4 minutes of exposure time
in the last two hours
cause every sub is trailed and shit
i just noticed you seem to have some runaway in DEC
when i had that, my DEC was too tight, i had to loosen it a bit
I got a virtually flat guide graph at 0.7" or 0.8" rms at worst with my EQM-35
(on my GEM28, my GEM45 is actually a bit too loose)
physically do smth with the mount? or loosen the clutch
physically adjust the gears
Specifically the worm gear meshing is what I had to loosen up a bit.
iOptron's gem28 has some screws you can adjust to increase/decrease ... tension? whatever it's called.
i love how whenever i cancel the sub the guide graph returns to normal
then when i start it again it starts killing itself
what's your exposure time for guiding?
have you tried taking it to like, 2.5 or something a bit higher?
it just sucks at keeping that star in the center
I always guided with 1 second exposures on my EQM-35
wowzers
yes and it does nothing to fix it
i seldom go below 2s
because it isnt having trouble with the view
its having trouble making corrections with the mount
faster exposures sometimes lead to chasing seeing i think, could be wrong
speaking of seeing; tomorrow was forecast to be clear, now it's gone to shit... as usual.
Correct
hasnt completely fixed it but certainly helped
doing 3s now
BRUH THE ONE SUB WHERE I GOT OK GUIDING
Guh
@prime sequoia so far my guiding is more stable and less twitchy since changing tripods
0.77 rms at the celestial equator which is amazing
Should be lower than this though
It's guiding better at the celestial equator than it is near the celestial pole
Wtf
I can't get it any better than this
I don't understand
It's the shape of the guide stars FML
This is so annoying to troubleshoot.
Went up to here after an hour and a half
I have the .75
Change to pec
Dew heater?
sky quality i think
whats up with your guide star
I can't see to be sure, but when there's a curved field, the guide stars look like crescents 😅
Even with the big chungus central obstruction, I'd say it might actually outdo my SCTs visually
At low power
That could be due to the aggressive baffling
looked like a line
hrm, i wonder if my baffles have agression
my unfocused guide stars look like crescents too
and it makes PHD2 flip the hell out
i'm not sure what 70% of that means
Sorry I got distracted
On the lower right you can see the ray traces for light entering a baffled RC at different angles
Green rays make it all the way through
Red rays are blocked by the baffles
ah so that's what the angle numbers mean
im a newt user so cant post a pic here but i got them without lucky imaging too
with IR?
No. Visible light
Lol post your pic here
gotta find it, wait
we have been waiting
but our patience is running short
so i can post sct pics 😼
i definitely had a better version
0.3"/px so seeing is my only challenge
yes
how big is the beast?
QHY5III715c
Very.
Do you have an IR filter?
Yes. an IR850, still havent used it
2.5 hours last night
ayyyy that's quite nice
I really like this RC now that its effectivly a f6.77
they turn into super speed light buckets with a reducer
with very little compromise to sharpness or resolution
very much worth it

second pass on my full M63 data
that is what I call VERY noice h-a
What is that ?
SQM reading
Btw
I’m messing with mount and guiding
The whole 0.1 min mo does more harm than good it seems
yes
I was having guiding issues and people said it was flexure
i keep mine around 0.2 to 0.26
And I need OAG. I changed settings and I got good guiding now
so do you need an OAG?
or is that just what people said you needed?
No lol
People say I needed one
Cause of guiding issues I was having
Numbers were good image wasn’t
Yeah that's a correct assessment then
i found out i needed an OAG when i had superb guiding numbers and trailed subs
finally getting good numbers lol
the first generation of them had a baffle tube that was too short, allowing stray light to enter the optical path with ease
none of the later models have that issue though
messing with guide settings and cant seem to get low exposures to work
they seemingly chase seeing and hallucinate errors. resulting in my imaging camera having bad image
setting it at 2 seconds fixes it
but not sure if this is too slow for my mount
that looks really good 
im guiding at 2 secs rn
honestly it depends on what the periodic error is
mine with my AM5N is extremely low
if your's is also very low you can get away with it
Guys I think I made another banger.
how do I check which model they sellin
If it's a retailer, they won't have the old versions
If it's on the used market, you can't tell just off looks alone.
I think only the GSO named models had that issue, and the rebrands did not.
they sellin gso models ;-;
New or used?
ye they are gonna restock so idts it's gonna be the old model
It won't have that particular defect then

Ilikeitalot
Too good
Ban him to the shadow realm
What is this (aside from being fire)
I will say – overall, modern RCs mop the floor with similar SCTs in terms of stray light reduction. The baffling does its job very well.
i believe losmandy mounts are really good
Sword said I could at least get TPN on AB but I dont think it will get that far with how noisy it is
yeah I have no firsthand experience with Losmandy mounts, but they're often considered a standard for mount quality
i may make a copy of that version of the image and do another pass of NR before I submit it
mhm
man I'm so confused rn
I think I need time, I'll maybe explore everything and buy my rig after a few months
I don't wanna rush into this and get something useless
definitely a good idea
Yeah, definitely take your time. I still haven't pulled the trigger on an astrocam yet lol
I'm waiting for touptek cams to get in stock
their 2600mm is really good and cheaper than zwo
Me waiting for my guide cam to ship
there's absolutely some kind of flexture with the RC's though
my collimation is dead on but here you can tell the stars are deformed and tilt is introduced
I think this is for sure that weight on the primary being a nuisance at extreme declinations
What altitude was the Lagoon Nebula when you shot it?
30 degrees
It's visible on like the cornerd only tho
corners
it maxes out at about 32 and a half degrees
bottom right and top right
the stars have become triangles too

normally that means pinched optics
in this case, that's exactly not what the issue is lmao
that's what I was thinking
Carbon otas has less chances of pinched optics? 
Yes, due to less thermal expansion/contraction. But regardless, the cause may just be collimation screws that are too tight
Mhm
if it's happening at extreme dec angles vs not at normal dec angles, im hesistant to agree

In your case, yes – I just mean in general
oh
these are single stars on the last M101 subs of the night

ive been having guiding issues and i think those have been masking pinched optics perhaps...
fmlllllll lol
You're accounting for the star shape artifacts due to baffling and astigmatism I've mentioned before, right?
this is dead center of the optical path
should not be affected by the baffle tube
Ah, okay
maybe it's the primary mirror like uh expanding due to the mirror holder expanding or sumthin
same thing happened to rory
in his betty video

i think it does have something to do with the way the primary mirror is mounted
it's not incredibly likely that this is being caused by my secondary because i worked pretty hard to not let the scondary be pinched
if it was the secondary it would have been a lot more visible in the center tho

still really bad tbh
that Ha star is

it's kinda a square
i think it's temperature based and has something to do with the way the primary is held in place and how the lock screws interact with the primary mirror holder...
I think it's due to the fact CF cools down slower than the mirror holder?
what's the mirror holder made up of
i have no clue
i havent been able to dig up much information about the primary mirror holder, how it's mounted, etc.
It's definitely not CF
the difference in cooling rate may cause pinched optics

the primary mirror cell itself, at least the shell of it, is steel I think.
Some kind of sturdy, rock solid, metal.
there is a significant amount of space between the outer bounds of the primary and the CF tube, so if youre saying the tube itself is constricting the primary, that is not correct.
I didn't know there was space 
it's probably the rate of cooling of the glass of the mirror vs the rate of cooling of the material the primary holder is made from
yes lots
that's what happened to rory's betty I think 
how are u gonna fix it
im not 

im good as fuqed if that's the case
ill need to do some research to see if there are options

I did some extra noise reduction on here, pretty light pass.
i think ill submit this one to AB IOTD
Yooo
oh snap wait
this version is even better than the first

blink through the original and this one and it looks so much better lmao
yeah this one is on par with my pillars of creation
holy fuq
i can get .8 rms with 2 sec exposures
but shorter exposures i get better numbers. at the same time short expousures seemingly just chase seeing
unless im missing something
and numbers can be improved
Why no IR?
i didnt want to for this project
i wanted a classic SHO image
how smooth is the graph with 2 sec exposures?
mine was unironically flat after i went to 2 secs last night
after having issues with it being super jagged beforehand
@ 1.5s guide exposures
mine flattened out
i got better numbers at 1.5 sec
but as i said, the image would say other wise
right
does the image get worse with sub length?
have you inspected that?
i was doing 3 min subs and they would be little eggs
i have guide scoped aligned
did you try shorter subs?
i believe its over correcting
not yet
been testing on 3 min subs
only turns out good at 2 sec exposure on guide cam
if it's differential flexture, 3 minutes is too long if your stars are eggs
ill look into that aswell
something tells me it isnt
but ill look into that, ill try shorter subs and see if it goes away
at least try shorter subs because that will eliminate diff flexture if that truly is the problem
correct
wait with an oag you dont have flexure ?
do you get better numbers ?
indeed
about the same numbers
guide graph is still flat too
yes
You know if my 462 would be good ?
For an OAG ?
I’ll also put it behind that .75 reducer
on your 150P, should be fine
on an RC, not sure, been wondering that myself
M101 
3 hours, 1 per color
GOOD LORD I ORDERED MY OAG ON THURDAY AND IT SAYS IT GONNA GET HERE IN A WEEK
RC 6 8hr
i need to run it through SFS i think i had some.... odd frames in there
holy fuq
for sure
id be a little careful with BX because it's really good at overcooking galaxies in RC data
im finding that out the hard way atm
i mean, good
looks like collimation is dead on, and it's very sharp
dont really need BX to tell that
and the scope has been sitting for a year haha

also whatever denoiser you are using seems to be hallucinating
in the background
oh yeah that whoops
the "light worm" looking things
its a more data thing
yeah for sure
and sometimes BlurX thinks its a star and makes it more prominent
thats a bluX after noiseX thing
NOOOOOO
do BlurX before NoiseX
it's not working correctly if you do it after
and do BlurX after color calibration because BlurX can mess up the color balance if you do it before color calibration
looks like a very juicy first run with the RC though
that looks really exciting
i know that bluX after can mess it up. sometimes at the end i run it one more time to let it sharpen everything up a little more once ive done all my sutff
just didnt see that it did that to the background
thanks! plan to do more time on m81 then move to Koi galaxy or m51
BlurX multiple times does mess up quite a bit
RC data, given the data was sharp out of the gate, doesnt need much BlurX'ing im finding out
at least for galaxies
could i take a crack at this astonishing data?
of course!
true being super oversampled doesnt help much either
i struggle with this, m33, and m101 getting the faint arms to pop
i just ran it thorugh sfs so give me one sec to see if it make and differnce
kk
ty so much
how do I get the backspace right of a RC @harsh matrix
not hard
add a spacer, and then rack the focuser in and out until you reach focus
don't I gotta buy back space thingy
what back space thingy?
they come with the proper extension tubes included to reach back focus
spacer
the proper rings come included
yes
ah
Will Qhy OAG work with zwo cams?
if I use a oag I need to calc the backfocus again
only if you use a reducer
that's complicated
they arent a simple thread on and call it a day solution
@vapid patio I definitely didn't handle the stars as well as you did. 😅 This was super clean data. 
Dude WHAT THATS SO MUCH BETTER
Whats your workflow
Roughly
plate solve, spcc, soft histogram stretch, remove stars, further stretch starless in histogram, run hdrmultiscale transform (i think that's what it's called) to reduce highlights in the core, noiseX, range mask to add color/saturation to the galaxy. then put a range mask on the stars to increase saturation w/o messing the cores too much. recombine, run blurX with non-steller reduced down to .10 or something? sharpening stars at .20
not bad
oh and before adding stars back, i did a 'dark structure enhance' to bring out the dust around the core a bit more
the hdr multiscale cooked the dust lane nearest to the core though 
the data was cleaner than i'm used to, so i forgot about gradient (there isn't much of one anyway)
i probably could've ran blurx first before starx, to keep those two bright stars from washing into each other
Hmm very simple
I never did hdr multiscale yet with my rc6 i will try
I usally run GraXpert anyways
i've seen people post their workflows on youtube and they use about 10 additional processes/scripts than i do, some i didn't even know existed, and the end result looks like a 256bit color graphic from windows xp
Real ✅
"we're gonna color mask this, linear fit that, extract lum here, clone heal this, etc etc"
i saw a guy doing that to get rid of amp glow artifacts 😭
Dark frames where you at 💔
oh he used them
i think he used a 10min sub dark for a 5min sub light, and he had dark black lines
subtracted too much
there's some real pixelmath ninjas who look like they're solving quantum physics with their formulas. some real Good Will Hunting stuff lol.
btw
BlurX PSA
and this is correct
this was how Russ Croman intended for it to be used
I would not be following that workflow 😭
SCT users didn’t get the memo
erm
excuse me
what are you saying about SCT users?
Yeah ok fair enough
What does that mean?

You use BlurX once, near the beginning of processing and never again
People use it twice?
Or do u mean the beginning of learning processing
I don’t rlly understand srry
People use it twice on the same image during processing of an image.
Wtf
How does that even work
☠️
look for Barnard's Loop while you're at it
Real
I got a good guide graph at that exposure time
I ordered an OAG 
I wanna say it’s more due to the mounts PE
Everything on my guide scope seems good
And a lot of people mention never figuring out their issue with flexure
did you ever test say 60 second exposures vs 180 second?
I was doing 3 and then 5
I got good stars at 2second exposures on guide cam
At 1.5. It would all go to shit
I think it would be best to use the main imaging scope to guide for these mounts since constant correction is needed
that sounds more like chasing the seeing but with a guide scope, at least a moderate focal length one, i wouldnt expect that to be much of an issue... 
that's a reasonable assumption
did your mount come with a periodic error test report?
It didn’t
ugh wtf
yeah youre swinging in the dark then
are you using hysteresis or PPEC as your correction algorithm?
good
At 2 sec is good but as I said, one needs constant correction so imma get an OAG
I really like the mount. Light and portable and I can set up so quickly
shouldnt be periodic error then unless you arent using a high enough prediction weight
Hmmm
With the RC?
yup
it really like to try to guide on noise 
i need that Xena M asap
Imagine it just locks onto a pixel 
that's what it's doing there lol
im just going to park it and wait out the clouds hopefully
Unfortunately it was too late to do that when we got here, but I just bagged ALL of Markarian's Chain.
LOOK AT M101 and M104

if youre there until the milky way core rises, look at lagoon and Sagittarius star cloud too
maybe challenge yourself and look for something much more difficult
say the Leo Quartet, or the Mice, or the Antennae galaxies
Coma Cluster galaxies are up next
I could see spiral structure in M101
Holy fuq
I don't recall if I could or not
I probably didn't because I was being really bad about not letting my eyes dark adapt 
Got another near B7 reading...
i just got the starizona coma corrector
it has a cool box
and the glass elements look so clear
strange

tell me how it goes
that's the 0.75x right?





