#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 2 of 1
should i get this
or is there a cheaper
but carbon fiber
i need it to be carbonfiber (for legal reasons)
Not used to pounds but I think they all tend to be around the same price
yeass
One tip I do have: check the used markets
It's a bit of TLC, but a lot of people sell their RCs because they don't know how to collimate them correctly
So you may score a cheap, fully functional OTA for relatively little
i enjoy collimation ( i pretend to enjoy it so the depression doesn't try kill me)
that could be good
The only thing I'll note about buying used is that you may need to install a baffle extension if it was manufactured before about 2020 (could be wrong on the year)
also, full metal spiders fill me with joy
For 8" and larger RCs this should be no problem, but for 6" RCs you may actually need to disassemble the scope to install the extension
It's very difficult to reach into the tube unless you have tiny hands and arms
i can barely reach into my 6" newt 😭
what can focal reducers reduce the f-stop to
like the most common reduction amount
Depends on whether you get a 0.75x reducer (f/6) or 0.67x reducer (f/5.36)
I have the CCDT67 and it's awesome
0.33 reducer?
i was joking obv xD
i should have 
at the end
dumb idea, 3" rc 😭
Unironically I'm holding out hope for a 4.5" RC
GSO made a 4.5" classical Cassegrain
Yeah f/12 is painful
would have to get a Focal reducer, which wouldn't really work
too smol appature
svbony has you covered
i have one of those 😅
does it work well for ap?
tried to use it with my first scope (omni xlt 102)
not at all. no focus achieved lmao
wouldn't think so 😭
you would have to be so far from the scope
it worked visually, but all i got was a realy wide fov through a 4" achromat
cool

i almost bought a stell tube RC8 off of cloudy nights
it was like 50% of MSRP
msrp?
"original price" is essentially what that means
i tried to sell my RC8 there, no takers 😦

ill take it for £0.5 
ill take it for like 300 USD 
except i need that money for a new guide cam
so i wont

imagine having guiding 
i bought this one there, and have been so disgruntled by the weather and only getting to use it a few times in a year, decided to sell it
now it's sitting on the floor in my office in it's packaging 😦
i bought one of these as a joke lol
don't actually buy one to use for imaging
i did find a use for it tho, wide angle lens
if you add spacers you can reach focus with it and you can focus like a helical focuser by unscrewing it

aw crap
my favorite image with it 🥹
which inchage did you take it with
8"
i see
that's reduced 50% to smaller filesize, was with imx492 in bin2
the focus was either off on the filter changes, or the collimation was off (we discussed this before in here lol). i dind't run blurx to correct the stars
it's 2.3um in bin1
it's nice in bin2
i dislike blurx, it's cheating (my free trial ran out and im poor)
lol
not bad
i'm almost always going to be oversampled with this scope where i live. seldom do i get above avg seeing
ngl, sometimes i actually prefer seti astros one
yea
i was going to take it up to cherry springs last june for the star party, had my tickets, weather was garbage. 😦
not driving 3hrs to hang out under clouds and showers
real
this but unironically (I personally refuse to use AI tools in my image processing)
To be clear, I don't have issues with others using AI tools
I just don't like using them myself
what about the bray falls method
fray balls
Is there a description of this method?
ms paint

prob not gonna be anything😔
The Orion ones got listed for the same price as other RCs
When?
I never saw any rc on thr highpoint sale
Some time ago, they weren't on sale, but you can still find them if you search on site
ofc they don't put the big sale on the ones we want
it's even more expensive than the ioptron photron ones
Yeah I wasn't super hopeful about the RCs since they're not meaningfully different across brands
Actually the Orion one might be the most different just because it comes with two finderscope brackets
Man, I had a heart attack last night. Somehow the brass compression ring in my focuser disappeared
I was a bit worried that it fell out at one of the public events I've been doing or that it dropped down the OTA and scratched the secondary, but thankfully I found it just pushed down the focuser tube a bit
wtfff
I have thought about potentially getting one of the Baader clicklock visual backs and screwing that on so I never have to deal with set screws
Oh boy
I think the primary mirror on my RC6 can get pinched optics
Just like the secondary
That makes no sense 
you get pinched optics, you get pinched optics, and you get pinched optics! everyone gets pinched optics!!!
I can't even tell if that's really what it is
The airy disks look oblong and not circular but it feels like it's seeing
It looks symmetrical in live view
Then it turns into a triangle once it gets focused
I suspect my light leak baffle tube is at fault

Well a 60 second subs looks good
I think i got a very slight amount of sensor tilt
My guiding is excellent tonight 
Yo I just ran into another slight scare with my RC
The extra finderscope screws came loose and fell into the OTA
I'm gonna replace them with screws that have actual heads
Getting them out is a pain due to the baffles 
I removed the focuser and that extra spacer between it and the RC back, and enjoyed a few hours doing some visual observing. The moon didn't help, but at least it looked nice through the eyepiece.
Nice! They really are excellent visual instruments.
I've actually managed to take mine out for outreach for the past three nights
yo how do u collimate ur RC @frosty shard
I haven't needed to just yet, but when I do so it'll likely be with a standard visual star test.
I did some visual tonight as well
Learned that bortle 7 + 84% illuminated moon is not very fun
Leaves the moon as the only interesting thing to look at 
Ooh with the RC?
Optics still look fine, I just had to be careful about ensuring the screw didn't fall on the secondary mirror
Nah I'm imaging with the RC
I went crater hunting with the dob
Saw some parts of the moon I've never really seen before
Saw what I thought were fractures, remnants around one of the large mare from the impact that created it
They were like terraced fractures
Yeah exactly, that's scary
this is what we are shooting with the Ritchey tonight 
Is that M63?

@harsh matrix the cult is growing.

hopefully it is collimated or near collimated when you get it
mine was so far out that i didnt know what to do
The retailers collimate it before shipping themselves
it*
bro I'm on drugs
should I wait for 6200mm to come in stock or get 2600mc
an RC cant do full frame
id do a 2600MM, not get a color version for the amount of money you have to spend on it
not worth it imo
or at least try to get a Player One Poseidon-M Pro
Player One's offerings are objectively better than ZWO's
plus your RC wont be fully taken advantage of with the color camera, the bayer matrix handicaps the resolution so your images will always look mushy
mono makes everything super crisp and allows you to eek out even more resolution
Out of stock

guess I gotta wait
Mine was perfectly fine out of the box so I hope now they are being more rigorously tested before being shipped out
Here's one of my friends looking through my RC on Saturday
I have actually debated whether to give my RC the same treatment as Carl the dob
And let the people who look through my telescope sign it
Maybe I'll vinyl wrap the tube first and then let people sign that
@frosty shard
which diagonal should I get? I'm confused
idk what size will fit the scope ( 2 or 1.25"
how do I check which is gonna fit
with will fit
Diagonal
both*
how
the RC comes with a 2" to 1.25" eyepiee adapter

im going to go fight an uphill battle and try to see the Milky Way core in my backyard
Yeah that was absolutely hopeless
Id argue that the brightest part of the core rises inside of what is probably a bortle 8 light dome
So I'll never in a million years see it from home
yeah the brightest part of the core at the observatory is firmly in the atlanta lp haze
I got a 2" dielectric diagonal for my RC.
Just so you know why: to really take advantage of the full barrel diameter you want a 2" diagonal (and ideally a 2" eyepiece with maximized field stop).
And in general I'd avoid prisms with an RC just because they're already well-corrected
Though some swear by them for planetary work
(Prisms can introduce some spherochromatism and coma)
Also 2" prisms are expensive
All IR data?
got the same one lmao
Did you get the Apertura one? I got that
Oh I thought you got the CarbonStar
nu I got the gso one
well now that my newts broken i have another reason to get an rc
Either way they're really all the same, GSO makes all of them
yes
a 6" is around 300 to 400
could probably get one cheaper used
what currency u use
you said 300 to 400£ rah
that's more than 400
is it aed?
close enough 😭
i want to get a Carbonfiber one bc silly :3
i also want this camera for regular photography
bc it looks pretty
and thats the only reason
aree
i can barely carry my 6" newt thats made of metal (i have muscle in my arms but almost all of it is unusable)
vro whar
my 6" newt is light af
i know
with the tripod i mean
the newt is liftable
by a bit
if i carry my entire setup it's hard because the counterweight
makes center of mass go silly
my counterweights are so heavy
mine are only 2.5kg lol
idk what i have
i only use one at halfway down the cw shaft
cause my newt is ultralight
its half paper lmao
non farbonciber
yea 6kg
that's still only half my mounts capacity
slightly more but still
farbonciber
over my mounts capability
whar moun
£80 price difference ^~^
eq3
to muhc
upgard rah
nop :3
is eq5pro good enough?
good point
and better i think
yip
take it to one of those ungayer people
that dont work and traumatise children
😨
gso ones go for like 400usd here
Mine is unique, it says GS Optical on the side instead of GSO. 😅
technically still a gso
I found something weird about that pinched optics deal with the primary
It started out as a theory and now I think it's what is happening
Pretty sure it's related to temperature
Specifically the primary mirror cell
i had that happen with a newt when i overtightened it and it got out in the cold.
My RC6 split Rigel A and B
Apparently seeing is cheeks tonight so this is surprising
how do u collimate your RC? @harsh matrix
on stars using sharpcap or metaguide if the seeing is really bad
o
do u have any vids on Collimating a RC? Barely any useful vids on yt
no
But
Lukamatico has an SCT collimation video which was very helpful for me
as crazy as it sounds, collimating an SCT is virtually identical to collimating an RC
apertura's user manual for the carbonstar helped me a lot too

Do you not have to adjust your primary mirror often?
Totally added my photo to the Wikipedia article for Ritchey–Chrétien telescopes
Since there weren't any images of amateur sized RCs
I'm actually trying to find proper sources so I can add more info about amateur RCs – apparently there's a book chapter out there that has some of GSO's history
why is there a latitude base adjuster thing on the front
weight for balance, clever use of it if i might add
i have an ADM weight saddle for my 8"
i had two counterweights but they're cut into thirds, so i can be more precise with the balance. as well as adding the side bolt, if my camera is rotated where the filter wheel is off to the side i take one of the weights off and counter it to the opposite side.
no, it's pretty rare that i have to adjust it
anyone use a 6" and have any idea if 2lb is overkill for a conterweight. I would like to buy one but I dont know if 2lb is to much
it is not
might not be enougj
My scope is lighter than a carbonstar and i use a 2.5kg counterweight most of the way down the shaft
with guidescope
without i use it halfway
to balance the dec or the RA?
the dec
my 8" is cf and with the image train, i need almost 7lbs of counterweight up front

you might need more than that honestly
im using my guidescope as a makeshift counterweight and i think it weighs about that much
not nearly enough to counter balance the amount of weight on the back
im also running a full fledged mono system with an OAG
oags don't have issues on slower scopes?
They do but normally it's the camera at fault
I need a new guide camera

the focal length is where the issues arise, smaller area of sky to look for guide stars
You can get around the speed issue by using a guide cam with big pixels

this is deceptive, as it's getting around the focal length issue 😛
@frosty shard Do u guide when using ur RC for visual
I don't think that's even possible
guide scope?
Not that you'd need it – the error with a harmonic drive mount is too small to notice visually
Whoops I was only thinking of OAGs
More so to solve issues of illumination rather than field size
I got the gem28 not am5n so do I need it?
Harmonic drive mounts have more aperiodic error than standard GEMs – guiding is unnecessary for visual
i used my gem28 visually with an 8" SCT on it, should be fine
What about imaging
what can u see with ur scope visually? @frosty shard
stars are easily illuminated enough for phd2 at f/8 - f/10
What guide cam do you use?
player one sedna-m
my asi120mm mini would work as well, but smaller fov so i ditched it
Pretty much anything you can see in an 8" telescope, really. I mean you have a little less contrast on planetary detail, but the light grasp is excellent
Uh I got the 6" 
It showed me the Triangulum Galaxy, Rosette Nebula, several small galaxies in Ursa Major, many planetary nebulae, etc
what bortle
It's still going to be as good as most other 6" telescopes
That was first light in Bortle 3
I'm in bortle 4
I usually observe in Bortle 7-8
Oh that one has pretty small pixels – I decided to splurge on a Xena-M just in case
But honestly it's good to hear that the Sedna-M does the job
when on my rc8, i use it in bin2. on the other scopes, bin1. but the xena-m has more fov though, you should enjoy it 🙂
u have a gem28? @analog portal
yeah, and a gem45
rc8 sits on the 45, my fma180 pro or at80edt will sit on the gem28, depending on what i'm doing
Can the gem28 be good enough for carbon rc6? ( imaging)
i'm not sure, what's your rc6 weigh?
yeah i think so. imaging stuff shouldn't be too much more
i did use my gem28 imaging with an 8" SCT and OSC camera with OAG, it was ok in RA, but my DEC was having issues due to balance to make proper corrections
SCTS are back heavy tho 
so's the RC
the seconday of RC makes it less back heavy
true. however, with my moonlite focuser my rc is just as back heavy as the sct was lol

it's a terrible problem!
oh, i forgot to mention! when i put more weight on my GEM28, I had to tighten the RA gears. 
it came from the factory a bit loose. i started to slew when i put an at115edt on it with a minipier, it dropped violently making a terrible sound of gears skipping over each other
nothing else 
ain't that scope like 6-7kg?
i caught it before it hit the tripod, and spent the next day inside tweaking the tension/tightness
yeah, about 6kg
the retailers check everything before shipping the mount so idts I should be worried
i got mine from High Point back several years ago
did u notice any more problems?
i switched the tripod from that one to the gem45 later on, because the gem28 had built in vibration discs on the bottom, and the gem45 did not. same size legs, different 'tops' though. i setup on my roof and the extra weight on the gem45 would poke through the roof if not for the discs
nah, no more issues after those adjustments
it was about a year after that when i had the sct on it

i got that in august 2021, it's only gone up $200 since
my gem28 came with the same bottoms on the tripod as this thing: https://www.ioptron.com/product-p/8034.htm
i don't see many other gem28 with that
I got it for 1450usd

Sexy scope 
that dumb moon looks like the sun 😭
TRUE
So much so I am really considering getting a 2600mc dual.
I tested and it does fully illuminate a full frame dslr so it should work.
I wonder if I can get my one club member to let me borrow his 2600 dual and try it out.
It does?

The GSO RCs were definitely designed to illuminate full frame sensors, though field curvature is the big limiting factor
interesting
https://www.optics-pro.com/flatteners-correctors-reducers/ts-optics-corrector-for-rc-telescopes-2-/p,21856 this is what i have.
although i have swapped it out for the CCDT67 though
it claims it works as a focal reducer in that page, don't believe it. i stay at f/8 @ 1600mm with it in
...that is interesting...
it's not something the manufacturer claims. it's listed elsewhere and specifically says it doesn't impact focal length
So I just realized my RC actually needed to be recollimated
Easy job actually, I just had to tweak the secondary
...and that is why my RC wasn't doing too hot on Jupiter last night
Now at 203x I can clearly see the belt eruptions
Yeah the planets were lit tonight
On the other hand, my 8 mm Baader Hyperion might have an issue somewhere. It has a ton of on-axis chromatic aberration
Really making the most of my RC's imaging capability tonight
My telescope is on Wikipedia again:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optical_baffle
showwww
told ya
congratulations cutie 
Congrats!
Well you'll have to look through the eyepiece
drop the address 🔥
Sterling Hall
475 N Charter St
Madison, WI 53706
(fun fact: the building was bombed once in 1970)
The Sterling Hall bombing occurred on the University of Wisconsin–Madison campus on August 24, 1970, and was committed by four men as an action against the university's research connections with the U.S. military during the Vietnam War. It resulted in the death of a university physics researcher and injuries to three others.
damn, wrong country
Ahhhh
Well
I am getting one on Saturday. I don’t have a flatter. Will it matter since I have a micro 4/3 sensor? It’s only really using the middle of the scope.
Not a problem - the field should be flat enough for sensors up to APS-C size
Thats grewt to hear
And also
How hard is it to guide?
I bought a huge guide scope let me send you the linl
Link and im paring it with a asi120mm
SVBONY SV106 60mm Guide Scope will help guide you to capturing higher quality astrophotos. Not only can meet your needs for exploring the stars, but also for your daily viewing, such as bird watching, hunting, etc. 60 mm aperture lens The larger aperture can help you see more stars in the guide s...
@frosty shard
I have that same guide scope, but don't use it anymore. Your guiding with that will look good, but remember that's a lot shorter than your focal length is, which could impact sharpness of your subs.
Generally you want to use an off-axis guider with an RC
I've heard of people being successful with guidescopes though
i used that guidescope/camera combo on my at115edt, and since then i've switched to OAG. it worked well for the ~800mm focal length.
But arent oag expensive?
Its 1370mm
not much more than that scope
But i have a small guide camera so it should be really zoomed in
right but it's still only 240mm focal length, your 'zoomed in' is just the field of view
if you already bought it, may as well try it out and see how it works 🙂
True, amazon does not care
i use that guide scope as a finder scope with a 1.25" diagonal in the end and an eyepiece now 😛
The issue is differential flexure (the RC OTA bending differently from the guidescope)
You'll know it's happening when your guiding numbers are excellent but your subs look like garbage
But I'd also suggest just trying it anyway
You might not have significant issues
I have dew heaters for it maybe to keep it steady
Yeah ok i will try
it's generally a sturdy configuration if you have it tightened well.
the issue i had the most was the helical focuser had some slop in it. after a meridian flip, it would throw off the framing a bit
Or i could piggy back my apaturea 72mm as a guide scope haha
Hmm yeah i could see that
i worded that wrong
it was the focus 'tube' that extends out, not the helical part
@vapid patio biggest RC tip: stick a diagonal and eyepiece in it and have a look through it :)
I dont have eye pieces
Fair enough
Yay the cult is growing 
Hows your scope?
Do you have the carbon one or astro tech?
Ive seen 2 scopes
We both have the Apertura CarbonStar versions (Veloren with the 6", me with the 8")
Sick
I have only really used mine for visual astronomy though, so I'm not going to be the most knowledgeable when it comes to imaging with mine
They are all pretty much the same? As in quality not as in size
Ahh ok
All consumer RCs are made by GSO and are rebadged, so they're mostly the same
They may come with different accessories though, which notably includes the focuser
so with my focuser I found that it likes to slip.
I have the tension high and it still slips out every now and then
Apertura Carbonstar
Apertura's focuser is better than most of if not all of the other options
No
Only if the focuser has an M90 thread, which I think is specific to GSO Ritchey–Chrétiens and classical Cassegrains
Aw man
gonna use my RC8 and 2x.5 reducers to record the eclipse tonight. 🙏
2?!?
Is that going to work?

sure! .5 takes it to 50% reduced, another .5 takes me to .75% reduced (overall)
just gotta watch for reflections and physics
who wouldn't want an 8" f/2 RC 😅

That would be awesome
RASA type beat
its not an rct but its the closest thing ive seen to that
can you just use a .75 reducer?
i would need a .25% reducer
i was joking about my rc8 use tonight, btw. i have the CCDT67 reducer for mine. depending on spacing, i can shoot between f/5.6 or f/6.4 ... usually i stay at f/6.4
i think it could be reduced further, but i don't have the proper spacers to get the spacing for it 😅
that takes me from 1600mm to 1300mm focal length at f/6.4
Which brand of RC did you get?
Oh interesting
@analog portal is the Astro tech RC line another GSO rebrand?
brain and force said it is
@harsh matrix also what is that bar that goes on the top of the scope called/
Looks like it's just another Vixen Dovetail bar to me
It's the exact same dimensions as the one in the bottom side of my scope
Agena Astro or High Point Scientific if you are in the US
You might have to ask brain for the dimensions of the one on top of the 8" RC
Mine's a 6" and idk if the length of the tube is the same, I'd assume not.
not bad for an RC
I can order the Carbonstar RC8 pretty soon if i save for a few more weeks
How easy is guiding with a strain wave mount with an RC + OAG
I was doing first light with mount and found 1 sec exposures do very well surprisingly
I thought I would be chasing seeing or something
How difficult is it to find a star with an OAG
finding a star in your OAG largely depends on focal length, guide camera sensor size & oag prism size, and of course... light pollution.
i do 2.5 to 3s exposures in PHD2 guiding my RC8 on my gem45, guiding in bortle 6. it's not terrible at all.
I talked with another RC owner who uses an Askar OAG and an ASI174MM Mini guide cam and he's said he's never had any trouble finding guide stars (it's a pretty popular combo with RC users it seems)
The Player One Xena-M uses the same sensor and is really better than the ASI174MM Mini (cheaper, has USB3)
Are you using a traditional GEM or a strain wave mount?
Strain Wave
Ragdoll 17 i think
Ah right you need pretty fast guiding cadences for those
I got .3 rms last night
I’m very happy
I worry that with an RC and slower system that at 1sec I will struggle
I have a 462 btw
Idk if that is ideal for OAG
It would probably be a bit small
But my 120MM is similar in size and I haven't had problems getting a guide star until galaxy season now
I have to order a camera with a bigger sensor.
I think you could make it work if the camera is sensitive enough
And if you don't live in bortle 20

Still waiting on my Xena-M to ship lol
oh jeez wtf
P1 doesnt normally take that long
It's them waiting on a supplier, they were pretty helpful when I inquired
But I'm not in a rush at the moment. Got too much visual work to do lol
Hai :3
i see used GSO 6" RC 
the focuser design hasnt changed much except the front part being flattened for an EAF. so i can find some m4 screw somewhere for better tightening

just make sure it's not a very old one
How does one tell this ?
you'd have to ask the owner how long theyve had it, probably
Oh ok 🙏
350 shipped
I’ll ask when he got it and if his focuser is EAF compatible
I wonder if these have mirror flop issues. It seems even the newer carbon stars are the exact same almost
you bought it?
it might be but i dont think it can handle much weight
mine doesnt appear to have mirror flop, but im also using a 533 so if there is any movement, it's likely not noticeable with this sensor
Not yet
I dont think my flats would work ever
Just what it says on listing
if it did flop
I wonder cause I see it a lot on forums with GSO ones. Might be worth crying and buying once with the CS
Was thinking on a .75x reducer but I realize there’s a lot of small targets I wanna shoot this summer
i use my 0.67x reducer most of the time and i find that it allows my RC to virtually ignore seeing
that's how I am resolving globs in M81 and M82
it probably would still resolve them without the reducer but guiding around those galaxies at that focal length with a 120MM is painful
btw @thorny path this is what Apertura's manual says about the primary mirror's mounting situation
I hear The whole “seeing limited” a lot
Is it that bad where you prefer that reducer ?
I’d like to use it at its native FL
and judging by the fact that I seem to get pinched optics on the primary with the temps being where they are right now with large fluctuations in this period of time, i'd be inclined to agree
not really
i actually quite like the native focal length
i just dont like shooting at native with my OAG + the 120MM
Ah
i have a hard time getting guide stars because the camera just sucks
My sharpest data sets came from shooting without the reducer
Low key goated with collimation since my experience with the evil sky watcher one
I’ll have to get an OAG as well since I’ve been putting that off
Like this M51 pic 
Oh and the other reason I don't like native sometimes is the f ratio, which in B7 can make things excessively difficult.
I would definitely shoot at native at a dark sky site
No, got clouded out.
I got lucky
With carbon star
I saw it through my eye piece and I saw very little red
But I guess that cause of low contrast with newt
Lads
I need some help
Back focus is so hard to get my astro tech rc6
As its the clamp thing and not a screw on
What are you trying to focus?
Backfocus
Like how many spacers do I need
You need to add spacers between the primary mirror and the focuser which requires you to remove the focuser
I believe the 50 mm spacer is sufficient to reach focus too
Thats the bigger of the 3 that should have come with the scope
If you don't have enough focus 'out' then do what Veloren says, or if it's unable to focus 'in' then you may have to remove the spacer between the focuser and back of the OTA. (I have to do that for visual use)
i personally like my mirror to shift at least an inch per session
is that a third midget galaxy i see?
Look at this
How in the world am i gonna get back focus like this
try un screwing the compression ring attachment from the focuser
under that is likely where you'll screw your camera on
I GOT STOPPED BY AN UPDATE FOR WINDOWS FIRST
oh
when you get it you may enjoy it
If i can guide it
thats also ture
did you remove the part i suggested?
At the bottom and left? Yes.
He didn't have the spacers included with the scope
Thats the issue.
Well, he also has the spacers on the camera fully inserted into the focuser tube instead of screwed on...
Let me do it right now
yay :3
?
Were talking in front of the focuser, at the front of the chrome ring
This piece
Must be hard to get out
Oh wait you're right
it can be very stiff. 😅 it should come off. the spacer Veloren is talking about on the other end of the focuser, mine was practically welded on lol
darned near sprained my wrist twisting it off
Now I see where the confusion is
I didn't think about that. I remember now that when I used the compression ring to hold the camera, I needed a 50 mm + 25 mm spacer ring to reach focus
If you can thread the camera on directly, you should only need the 50 mm spacer which i think you have by the looks of things.
No it doesnt come out
threaten it until it does
The little compressing thing on the back does not come off
issue a subpoena!
every scope i've had, from the cheap old celestron omni xlt, has that part screwed onto the focus tube
Dude i am telling you it dies not come off as it is one peice
i'm flabbergasted. what model is that?
hrm
you're saying there is no seem there?
Looking at Cloudy Nights, it seems that actually is a solid piece. That's a really poor design. 😦
Well i guess that's correct
Looks like you're getting a 25 mm extension ring.
my RC just casually split Polaris 
not even acclimated to outside, focused, or have good seeing
another over sharpened over denoised SCT image 
this one too
(I know not every instance of oversharpening + over denoising and maybe even background clipping is from an SCT user but it's more often than not from one
)
one of the only scopes that leads to this happening at a much higher rate than others
actually just seeing a lot of bad images rn 
Idk lmao
i think amma get the Sky-Watcher EQ-AL55i PRO 
i want everyone to be unable to sleep
with its cries
did u watch astrobackyards vid
quar?
all i know is the backlash will make me want to kms
did he talk about the backlash
and did he talk about how it sounds like it's dying
so its finally getting advertised 😭
Exactly
tornado watch, time to bring in the mount 😅
just watched
svbony s550 aint bad tbh
i prefer newtons ngl
they cheaper and better f-stop
per focal length
no collimation and wide fov
i like not wide fov personally
I like smoll galaxies so neither do i
oh shizzle, i'm pink again
ohh nooo
last time this happened, i rage quit the server 
why
back in the old days i was red, and new roles were added and i became pink
i am not fond of this hue
Rip
it was coming in anyway tbh, winds are gusting at 25mph and higher. i was worried the cover would tear, since it's tied to the tripod legs. or it would act as a sail and topple the gem45.
True dat
love my RC 
sometimes it makes me not want to get the 8" but I know I will like that way more...
this is all of the red channel data from just last night
I stand my ground when I claimed it was easier to collimate one of these RC's than it was yo collimate my f/3.45 quattro
That will not change 
Do you guys think i will have trouble guiding with a 260mm 60mm guide scope?
Oag was out of the budget
You got an RC8 right?
6
answer to this would help me too, i have the same guide scope and planning on an rc6 eventually
for reference, i was encountering differential flexture with a 162 mm 50 mm guide scope
im not sure how much of a difference another 100 mm of focal length will make, but i suspect it may not be enough to get sharp stars.
I plan to but not for awhile
Also my mount was hyper tuned
And i am running half the weight it can holf
Hold
i suspect it will still wobble around a lot despite what your guiding says, so i dont think you will get perfect stars, but i expect it to be manageable in that case
just dont expect to be able to get 5 minute subs
i couldnt get longer than 60 second exposures when i was guiding with a guide scope, even with the RC reduced.
you will get subs that arent trailed, i just dont know how long you will be able to go for before you get trailing
i have the 6"
i really like the QHY OAG-M Pro atm
the prism is very big, big enough to support whatever guide cam you have now and in the future
the largest sensor I know of on a guide cam (in my knowledge) is the Player One Xena-M and that fits snugly with the prism on my OAG
cant wait to order it because guiding will be easy once I have it
i have asi120mm does that work>
yes but very hard to manage when shooting galaxies
good lord that oag is 250
you get plenty of guide stars near the galactic plane, but outside, you are pretty SOL
i might be screwed
yeah but buy once cry once
true
i spent a lot of money i was not prepared to spend and i was crying with every purchase, but now my rig runs perfectly every night, reliably, and I get excellent pictures because of it
it was worth it in the end
makes me excited to get out and shoot every night knowing my equipment can handle whatever i throw at it
the ZWO OAG was really making me hate guiding with an OAG, and it was impossible to use with a filter wheel
i have 39 cent rn
that's what made me buy the QHY OAG, i didnt want any problems from then on.
no it's feasible the guide scope will work
like i said, i could do 60 second exposures with a 50 mm guide scope, my 120MM, on a stock EQM-35 Pro
its a f/9 and i have a asi533mc pro im cooked
whether or not you can do better than that, idk
could you explain differential flexture to me like im 5
essentially, the rate of movement of the sky perceived by the imaging camera + scope is different than what is perceived by the guide scope + camera
that's an extremely butchered and over simplified explanation but that's virtually what it means once you break it down to the fundamentals
but what if i get t hem to see the same part of the sky?
since the guide scope is a lower focal length than the imaging scope, the guide camera perceives a slower rate of movement than the imaging camera does, and so over time, that can present as star trails
doesnt matter
it's unfixable
without some unimaginably solid mounting solution for the guide scope
SVBONY SV106 60mm Guide Scope will help guide you to capturing higher quality astrophotos. Not only can meet your needs for exploring the stars, but also for your daily viewing, such as bird watching, hunting, etc. 60 mm aperture lens The larger aperture can help you see more stars in the guide s...
this is what i have
oh ok i see what you mean
btw the cause of this is that any kind of flex in the system, even down to nanometer scale, means that the guide camera cannot correct for what the imaging camera is actually seeing
yeah
as for me, i couldnt even get my guide scope to point at the same place in the sky as my RC
the lower position of your guide scope will probably be a big help
well mine has those up down left right things
mine does too
like not on the top of the scope?
but my guide scope is on a tall pedestal thing
i mean the distance of the camera to the optical plane of the scope is much closer
mine was way more spread apart, making it impossible to align the 2
i see
and since it is a asi120 wont it be pretty zoomed in to account for those small movements?
yes but ultimately it comes down to the resolution allowed by the guide scope's aperture
for reference
my guide scope is haning off the front on the bottom
i basically use it as a counterweight for the dec now, but you can see it's on a little metal stand thing
this is the guide ratio for your system
no clue what that means
generally you want the guide number to be 5 or below
i mean it is 5?.26
imaging / guiding
imaging = the resolution of your imaging scope + camera
1370 mm focal length + 3.76 micron pixels = 0.57"/px
guiding = resolution of the guide scope + guide camera
260 mm focal length + 3.75 micron pixels = 2.97"/px
the 5.26 in the ratio means that is how many times worse the resolution of your guiding solution is
1:5 is really bad
not ideal, but manageable in some cases
above that is unsuitable
hm
1:3 is generally good or acceptable
1:2 or lower than 2 is great and adequate
that's enlightening for me too
i wanted to look into getting a bigger guide scope to maybe get around OAG guiding altogether
but I do like being able to guide for 10 minutes 
with no star trails
i have a spare scope.. apaturea 72 edr that i could piggy back?
if your mount can handle that, definitely
wish i stayed with 250mm scopes 
it only weighs 4 pounds haha
lmao RedCat 51 looking ahhh
that would maybe work
haha let me sewnd you the link
how much focal length does it have
A quintessential accessory for celestial events, the Apertura 72 mm Doublet APO Refractor with Adjustable Flattener is a rigor telescope designed for discerning astronomers and astrophotographers. Its apochromatic optics utilize a dominant doublet lens system, virtually eliminating chromatic aberration for exceptionally crisp, definite images. T...
480
says 430 mm in the specs
thanks 
oh wow
with feild flatter my bad
that's way more suitable
that would possibly work VERY well
just as long as however you mount it is solid
hehe how well we talking
50 50
1:2.5
YAY
not bad at all for the ratio
let me set it up i wanna send a pic HAHAHAHA

oh wait i put in my focal length
it's still 1:3.18
which is workable and not a big deal
if you get the reducer for the RC, it would be a perfect pairing though
I am drilling holes this is gonna work!

i drilled holes in my tube to add guiding too
i ended up with a bent tube but i fixed it
bent tube?
iwill do it tmmr
its a lil late here
but if it is directly mounted to the dovetail on the top it will be sturdy asf
#💬-general-chat message if u wanna know what happened lol
oh hell nah
so youi drilled into thew tube???
im just drilling into the plate on the top
like this top of the scoope
o
yea cause i had no other option
oag 
my scope is not meant for imaging at all, there is no way to add guiding
would not work either
unreplacable shitty helical focuser
well might work
but still
so what scope?
the table top dob?
yes
haha not much better
moved onto a new mount ofc
thats good
it def will be
this thing was designed with zero imaging capability in mind
rc6?
the mirrors are good
oh wait you sai rc6 already
well do you have a oag to put on it?
or a spare scope haha
no but i have a 240mm guidescope
im putting this on top of it
i have 260 and im screwed
@harsh matrix should i just sell the scope and get oag haha
eh probably not
at least give it a shot first
just dont want it to pull on the ota? and bend it?
i meant give the 260 a try
everything you have told me tonight tells me it sucks
youre probably screwed but idk about entirely
yeah but you have other scopes to shoot with right?
I wouldnt want to sell off my only guide scope and use an OAG on everything else
that would be horrible
i have 2 other guide scopes
smaller 165mm scopes for redcat and apaturea
so what about the piggy backing the scope? you not with it anymore?
didnt you just say you dont want to bend the OTA?
i think it is incredibly unlikely to bend it but i wouldnt push it if you think it's a possibility
I WILL say this though
i mean yeah idk if it even would i was jusst trowing it out there
your OTA is steel
if it was aluminum, i think bending, or heavy flexture would be a concern.
i just got the scope yesterday so i dont know it yet lol
I am not so sure about steel being that worrisome.
i mean, people have done crazier things with SCT's.
people piggyback their redcats on their 8" and 10" newts all the time too
plus youre mounting it on the top rail, right?
yep
that allows for more even weight distributing which makes bending even less likely
would i wanna drill the holes higher or lower? more twards the back or front of scope
plus the primary and secondary mirror support cells are solid metal, i think steel
those wont be moving
yeah i mean its held in with 4 screws lol
large threaded screws too
you have same scope?
arent you having issues balancing the dec?
no not anymore. i wasent familiar on what "balanced" was with these moutns truly are
ah ok
like i cant just unlock the clutches and move it and it stays still
if it is balanced right now, try to get the guide scope to be as close to the center of mass as possible
easy
that's good then
you may have to move your counterweights for the RA, of course, but it's more than possible your dec can remain balanced
but the "guide scope" is backheavy as i will have a flatter on the baack and other adapters
it is?
i have 2 weights i will be good
if it doesnt move when you unlock the dec clutch, yes
o that was hard for me to understand ig 
so that means the scope is back heavy, so positioning the guide scope toward the front will help with that
no not this mount ig

i followed the manual. balance RA by roating flat, then balace dec while it is sideways
so is it supposed to be able to fall in whatever direction it is heavier in?
that seems like you will have massive dec backlash problems
even with nothingh on the mount the dec axis falls one way
that doesnt mean it's supposed to do that with a payload
my EQM-35 is the same way
i will have really bad guiding if i dont get it to where it doesnt move if i unlock the dec clutch
could you send me a vidoe of what your scope does wqhen you unlock the clutchs
i need a reference
i cant
Quick tutorial for beginner astrophotographers :)
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you can follow what Galactic Hunter does though
big problem for my mount then
i cant like push it however i want
it cant stay balanced
it sways left or right
even with nothing on the scope. it goes to one side no matte how i have it
that's... not ideal.


