#ZWO Seestar S50 Chat n Share
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welcome to the club
We need a basic seestar forum now for the s30 and s50 combined.
rename this to zwo seestar chat n share
After the Pleiades went behind a telegraph pole last night I started capturing California. This is about 30 minutes.
The big flaw with mosaic mode is that you canāt seem to continue or do things over several sessions, which I rely on
That is where stacking in siril or PI comes in
If I do another few hours on California tonight it will start in the middle again instead of putting more detail around the edge
That is just how mosaic works sadly
tho if u go long enough you will get some good data on the edge
I think Iām saving individual frames so I should be able to rescue the Pleiades too. But again, will need several sessions. Normally I like at least 2 hours for a single frame or I find the noise is too high to work with.
Last night I managed to get 1 hour of exposure last night so in total about 2 and half hours of integration
Stacked and processed in Siril, GraXpert, and Cosmic Clarity
dwarf 3
That's the only one?
Doesn't the s30 also have a wide angle
it does
not sure if its for milky way though
yeah it cant
8 nights on M31, 2 nights on M42.. S50 Bortle 6 Workflow in Files names
Pre Mosaic update. LOTS of time
That's amazing
I used the recent denoising feature on a lot of my photos, and this is what I got
What do yall think?
Pleiades nebulae look too circular and m27 is green but other than that very good
seems like the "intelligent" denoising thought the flares around the pleiades were dso
it also looks like it doesn't really brighten signal when removing the noise
the green is from the LP filter
simple green removal can fix
INR and google photo edits on single Mosaic.. Bortle 6
These are the Before straight out of SS, for reference
Sorry those were the Before Google photo edits
After INR only
well done!
So... Do I take my seestar with me to Japan?
It'll be B8/9 but... Veil nebula š¤£
It's very hard to get in Australia
yes
14 degrees 
Guys Iām going to morroco soon (b2), Iāll share seestar pics
Surely share the data too hehe
If you want to :)
Yesss Iām excited!!
Insane
How much data?
1 hour and 30 minutes
My reprocessed tadpoles. Added Hubble Palette
wait thats the new one?
compared to this?
Yes
the old one is dramatically better lol
that amount of stretching just makes it all a blobby mess (in the new one)
Honestly the reason I redid it is because you can hardly see it
I can see it fine personally, plus the darkness kinda masks all the problems
how much int was in the image?
205x10s exposures
If I made the background darker on the hubble image would it make it better?
M81, around an hour and a half
looks amazing!
Unless you use it in eq mode youāll probably just get a smear due to field rotation
it shouldnt though, i have a 4 spike mask too and i dont get smears
I donāt know how thatās possible with an alt-az scope
do you own one?
Yes
then your doing something wrong if your getting smears with diffraction spikes
how much int time are u doing
i don't get smears at >30mins but others who have hours have big smears
Well firstly, I donāt use an artificial spike mask
But simply because of the way the scope works, each frame will have the spikes at a slightly different angle
Unless you have some kind of field rotator to rotate your mask over the course of an evening, in which case I have questions
I have the seestar s50 and Iām considering getting the s30 as well. I mainly want it because of its larger fov. Is it worth it?
I'd say it's good as a first scope but since you already have the s50 no
Is the s50 better at taking better quality images?
i think so
yes
you can easily mosaic with the s50 for larger fov
its just a 3d printed mask my guy
At a guess the apparent thickness of the spikes on the image is caused by the field rotation as much as the thickness of the tines on the mask.
can confirm that it works
how come that produces 4 spikes rather than 2
the obstructions make diffraction spikes that go the other way
if it was one spike then it would make 2 diffraction spikes bc it would diffraction to either side of the thing
Ok, but after a couple of hours imaging?

no smears
If you say so, but youāve somehow found a way to break the laws of physics
How long?
You got spikes at all sorts of angles there.
it was like really windy the first few hours
i did notice that
usually when i do exposures with diffraction spikes
i dont get any angles
example a
now stacking my dolphin head data
What could this be?
a seestar s30 mounted on an equatorial mount
Hmm interesting, maybe theyāll add a dedicated eq mode
They should probably do so
They need to do that
I guess time will tell
i just got Mine
I wish you all a seestar s50 under the tree
Although itās been rare to see in uk I did get a shot of sun with me Seestar
Some pictures using the new ai denoising feature on the Seestar s50
letting you know
you can turn off the seestar watermark
Yeah I know I usually donāt worry about it because I edit them in siril after but these images just came out so well, as well as Iām not sure how to composite images in siril
you own a pc?
connect your seestar to your computer
and you can grab the files off the telescope from there
and you can chuck it on siril
Ah okay, itās just a different process from the one Iāve done before.
I even have a script to process my images in siril but itās just a little different when using the mosaic mode
This is the stack I got from app last night. Thereās a telephone pole that got in the way, hence the horrible gradient, but there are no satellite trails. Has ZWO done something to the stacking to remove them?
Iām used to seeing a lot of trails on the app.
Idk if this does anything but if sometimes i see a Message that reads Last image Disgarded: then the reason like star trails
Yeah, but satellites donāt usually trigger that, itās normally wind or field rotation.
You'll get that message for any number of factors. Wind, tracking errors, an odd sense of unease.
The Seestar can go crazy some nights on the rejection I've found.
I tried continuous mode on pacman nebula. It definitely creates more usable data in any period of time, since it doesn't actually reject any frames, it just saves them all one after the other with no pause. There isn't any noticable trailing here in the stack. What there is, unfortunately, is a deal-breaking amount of walking noise, since it doesn't bother to dither. Plus also it drifts and it's hard to get the initial framing right.
you have to dither it yourself with either siril or pix
You canāt dither after capture
In normal stargazing mode it dithers every 5 frames, but in continuous mode it doesnāt.
you can
theres a setting on the seestar where you can save each frame individually
and dither those from stacking programs
I think youāre thinking of drizzling? Dithering is where the scope moves every few frames so that walking noise doesnāt build up.
The image above is stacked from individual frames (and drizzled) but you can see the walking noise as trailing lines at the lower part of the frame
Guys, a friend of mine @blissful depot got some data on the tarantula nebula with the see star s 50 like 1 hour and a half and i reprocessed his data and it turned out pretty good what do you think about it? like i didn't know it could turn out very good but it did!
Anyways i processed it in pixinsight
thanks
i don't have PixINsight as of right now so i relaly appreiacte a good mate hlepin me out!
thatās a seestar??
yes
like not bad at all damn
gotta love seestar mosaic mode
totally
definitely need to start saving for a better scope for astrophotography
horsehead project is gonna take me 6 nights in total for 6 hours
3 more nights to go
raw image from tonights exposure
In a few days Iām going to have 2 clear nights in a row and i would like to do some mosaics however im not sure what to image. I have already done the heart nebula so I dont want to image that and need help. Any suggestions what to image. If it helps I live in the Uk
Buy a second one š
Honestly if they do bring out a bigger Seestar next year for less than a grand, Iāll probably do it.
Anyone have any ideas?
Seestar S60 or what ever they calling it
Or s90 if they keep itnpattern
I need a s90
Someone please give me target ideas šš
Are you in the northern or southern hemisphere?
Northern hemisphere, Iām planning on doing a mosaic too
What are you looking to image? Nebula, galaxies, etc?
Anything really, just a quick note btw Iāve already imaged the heart nebula
You could do Orion, horsehead, rosette nebula, andromeda, m33, Pleiades, thereās some other little nebula that are good objects
Ooh ok
Thank you!
Carina nebula Mosaic
Flame and Horsehead Nebula
should we at all trust the ai denoising thing on the seestar
If it produces good results. IMO it seems to do a good job but over-smooths things.
was my thought
does anyone know how to remove the bar of info and words at the bottom of the seestar image?
without just cropping the image
in settings you can disable watermark on the seestar app
I canāt seem to find where it is in the settings
My best taken images whith seestar s50 so far
Hope that discord wont ruin the quality
š
Horsehad And flame i took last night then the Cloudsā¢ļø
Nice job!!
Any people with s30 pre-orders here? I pre-ordered, but no idea how long itās going to take to fulfill, so wondering if someone here has an idea š
funny Hambuger... Hehe
I saw some people in US have received theirs, I'm in the UK and ordered one for a trip in Feb, not sure if it'll arrive in time
I asked around at the ābbsā of zwo and they told me that the very late orders (31st of December) will be fulfilled in February. So they will ship then, add a few days and half march for me. Hope youāre before me if February was your goal.
not bad aside from the gradient
and framing
One of my first pics
2550 subs B6, Deep sky Stacked on SS, cropped on Siril only to run AI-denoise on the SS, edited contrast etc in APP. 1 pass on Cosmic Clarity-Denoise done lightly and barely noticable. So Almost all done on the SS..
Wow, that looks real good. How much time did you run it? 2550 subs doesnāt say a lot to me⦠(currently waiting until the s30 will be shipped, so no experience with seestar as of yet).
Unless it's mounted in EQ mode it's usually 10s subs and for me it takes 15-20s on average to capture a sub, because it dithers and some get rejected. So that's about 7hrs of subs taken in maybe 11-14 hours of capture time.
10 sec subs, NOT on EQ... NO clue on "time spent.. Multiple nights, ran until the x2 mosaics were completed.. I have the files on Gdrive if anyone wants to play with them? It started as 2800 subs I had to remove trails from to be able to Deep sky stack in the app.. And DSS also removed some leaving 2550.
SO anyone want a (quick) project to edit with more expertise than Newb me?
I was thinking of Printing the Flame and Horse I posted under images. Before doing, so I would like to see what others can do with the data and maybe small print those as well. Anyone with Pixinsight I'd love to take a spin at it and see what that software really can do with that same data!
And best of all, would be someone that could take my original ~4k image and make it a 32k image or whatever to be able to print MY copy on a Larger print of some kind.
I have a RAR of the stacked FIT's files of IC434 mosaic I posted. 1 is original SS stack, 1 was cropped in siril to be able to run AI-denoise on the SS.
Also shared I have a RAR of the 'hand picked' 2696 subs 'removing trails', that the Seestar ended up stacking 2550 stack out of.
I understand there are better images, and better data that I even probably have of both.. But made it to the point, I am truly proud of an image that looks great on my huge TV, and that I have made ~4 months into my scope and want to print it!
Final requests, Add your NAME to the file name with ANY info you did to it
And JPG or PNG picture replies on my Google Drive (its nearly full). And to keep the comparable and easy to print. And the less Cam-wow editing the better! Hopefully you can kinda see my artistic intent in the one I did.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1olC9KvBu6W7vFlI-Sl2kpQp1JHe3syqc?usp=sharing
a seestar for sale on ebay for 340 bucks atm.
If you look in the community part of the seestar app, most people take images like they take fotoās⦠often 10/15 minutes⦠but this guy, 44 hours for example on the fireworks galaxy; https://www.astrobin.com/users/Recretos444/
this guys is with us in the server
I got a seestar that should be arriving today or tomorrow
How much are those stabilizer things that people have to help with leveling the seestar, unless it comes with it already
This one?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EzdQsuY
Yea, aināt that bad Iāll think about getting it but I donāt think itās necessary rn
Seestar is very sensitive to being level and the tripod isnāt easy to level. IMO that gadget is worth getting for the Ā£15 or whatever it costs.
If itās the seestar 50 you should be able level with the mount it comes with. Not very accurate I think, but probably close enough.
My backyard is pretty flat and I wonāt like level it perfectly, I think the green area is good enough to make some good images
its not as hard to level to be fair
but if you do get one of those levelling adapters then its a life saver
I like how when I get my seestar itās cloudy out and supposed to be rainy for the next 2 or 3 days
LITERALLY SAME
got mine in 4 days ago and then the forecast showed 7 days of constant cloud cover
Welp, ig Iāll have to experiment with scenery mode or something
Happens all the time. Here, got a ASI585MC two months ago, havenāt been able to image once in that time. Hopefully those clouds will be gone soon and I can start imaging.
GUYS I FINALLY GOT CLEAR SKIES.
Tested it out with Orion Nebula and Flame Nebula, both turned out really well especially flame considering itās 11 min in a B7 or 8 sky.
M33, first edited s50 image
you have alot of artifacting going on it looks like
if anyone with a seestar s50 has a 3d printer i would highly recommend checking this collection of models out
its pretty much just a bundle of all of the most popular accessories + a carry case for lens attachments
all together all 7 of these pieces in the pic will take ~15 hours to print and it includes a place to store the included solar filter
the model for the dew shield is also included!! it takes about 2 hours iirc
Did I do something wrong when editing it. It was more of a test out so I just did some quick edits on the seestar app and AstroShader
edit your things on a computer
if you have one
Should I fully process it from stacking to finished image, or is the seestar stacking alright
would reccomend stacking through siril
seestars stacking is alright but would definitely do siril
ive had considerably better results from stacking through siril back before i bought pix
How would a mosaic work. Would I have to put each picture together and stack it or does the seestar just have it one picture
certain scripts can help solve this
Join me on Discord: https://discord.gg/QHQQ8uysFh
Buy the Seestar S30 or S50 from ZWO: https://store.seestar.com/NAZMUSNASIR
Get the S30:
Agena Astro: https://agenaastro.com/seestar-s30-all-in-one-smart-telescope-by-zwo.html?rfsn=7382615.2b333e
High Point Scientific: https://www.highpointscientific.com/zwo-seestar-s30-smart-telescope?rfsn=77...
Iāll probably try out the seestar more then get into manual processing
Welcome to the club!
~400 minutes of 10 second exposures of pleiades
is going to 20 or 30 second exposures worth it by any measure? im okay with needing to try several times to get a better image
not like the stars are going anywhere anyways x3
go 10 seconds
if you do 30-20 on an alt-az mount then you do risk star trailing way more than 10s
I redid the Orion Nebula as a mosaic and longer integration. 50 min of integration that took 3 hours for some reason
What bortle you in
4 and 6
dang, Iām in a 7-8 so itās prolly way worse for me
Ik your not supposed to but I feel like I should use the lp filter for capturing galaxies like andromeda or something
just because Iām in a 7-8 sky
The lp filter isnāt great for galaxies, it cuts out a lot of the light you actually want. Best thing is to get a dew shield and try to block out sources of direct light
Also graxpert and siril are both pretty good at getting rid of gradients
Yea I think Iāll have to just see how bad the light pollution is whenever Iām capturing something that requires not using the lp filter. I donāt know how to process on pc or anything rn but using something on pc will prolly help a ton with light pollution.
To process on pc you gotta have it on the s50 export the raw to discord or something download on pc then go crazy
canāt you just connect the seestar to the pc so you have all the files
I mean connect you phone to the S50 export files to discord or something download from discord on PC
Then you god the raw
I mostly use it for colour calibration
Iām just doing it on my phone rn but I plan to learn siril and process there
Yeah
Siril is loafs better then seestar on board dont get me wrong is good but similar is better
In 2006 it was 2 now it 6 so thats not grate
Can anyone sanity check something for me?
I'm seeing really high rejection rates on my S50 lately... like 48 minutes of data from 3 hours of observing on a clear night. It's able to do 'horizontal calibration'. It's solidly mounted to concrete post (with embedded tripod thread - that's out of plumb by 4 degrees... but I was also seeing these rejection rates when tripod-mounted). Standard 10s exposures. Lots of star trail rejections.
Has something changed in semi-recent firmwares that would be causing this, or do you think my unit has just developed a fault?
I had a similar experience the last time i captured something. Took 3 hours or so for 50 mins of data. I suspected it was something with the environment since i live in a B7 sky near Dallas (a big city).
I also heard the seestarās tracking is not that good so maybe thatās the problem
I am in a B6/7 zone... how odd. I don't think it used to be this bad, but maybe i am misremembering... there's been total cloud cover for months on end here lately
even here in B4 i see ~30-50% rejection rate
it goes down to a minimum around 2-3 AM when its the darkest to ~20-30%
if there is even a minor breeze the rejection rate skyrockets even higher to upwards of 60% early in the night
best case scenario that ive found is recording after midnight on level concrete with no wind blowing or up against a wall that blocks the wind
nice to know that its not just me with a frighteningly high rejection rate
Itās very sensitive to being level. Being absolutely level helps a lot (I always aim for 0.1 degrees in the calibration).
You could also check that that level calibration is correct. You can calibrate that calibration on a surface that is perfectly flat.
Even with that my rule of thumb is that you get about 1hr of data for every 2hrs of imaging.
Maybe the seeing was bad that time? These are disturbances in the air, that can come with high level of moisture in the air, or windā¦
does anyone else have a really bad problem with goto innacuracy?
every time i set up i calibrate the compass and get it perfectly level
but then when i use goto its always several degrees off in both axes
is it normal to have to use skyatlas sync to adjust the offset every single time i use the telescope?
its exasperating to have to spent 10 minutes every single night trying to find where its actually looking
Thatās not normal at all. The compass can be quite inaccurate but it should sort itself out after the first plate solve.
You should never need to use sync for normal deep sky imaging.
I have found some success with 20s as I find 10s to be way to noisy
I usually get to 0.1 but even I am throwing out 50%-60% of subs
I get terrible rejection rates with 20s and the stars are noticeably more bloated when stacking.
I would say so I am new at processing so here is like 5 hr on M1 from bortle 8
10s for me in bortle 8 just gave too much noise
I think for my first "Serious" image it turned out Ok
this is mixed 10s and 20s exposure
i figured it out
if anyone else is having this problem, DONT START WITB ANYTHING BUT DEEP SKY OBJECTS
starting with the moon or any planets doesnt work at all without manual adjusting
but a few nights in a row starting with the orion nebula it adjusted all on its own
This is pretty bad cuz itās only 40 min exposure that got interrupted by clouds that randomly spawned in. Couldnāt even complete the mosaic so it just looks like this, but I might try to get the same frame and capture again when I get clear skies and process all the pictures from those nights with my pc for the first time.
Are the default scripts in Siril enough for stacking or is there a better script for stacking seestar images
Thereās a script on the Siril website that is good enough to stack (not process), but if you have the in-development version you can get better results with drizzling.
Drizzling is only in the dev version and the script doesnāt use it, you have to do it manually or write your own.
Wow that is with a seestar?
My M1 photo looks like out of foucs by comparison lol
yes
3x drizzle + blurx + a little bit of graxpert deconvolution
7
not sure about seeing conditions probably average
I guarantee you can probably achieve something similar
ah mine were pretty bad and im new at processing I think I used a 2x drizzle
im assumming 10 second exposures?
yes
I mixed 10s with 20s
10s for me just produced too much noise
I guess I was not in perfect focus? idk
did you do any sharpening
or deconvolution
no not really
I did it in siril
did not do anything dont really know how to use the tool very good yet
I need to try deconvolution on siril
I find even non-AI deconv is worth doing in Siril because it helps reduce the size of the stars, even if the background doesnāt get noticeably sharper
I wanna capture the moon and get horse head again but itās been cloudy and rainy ever since my first attempt on horse head
What do I need to do to get those bright full moon shots with like the glow of the moon, will a 5 min vid be enough or is that not how it works
You need to do some HDR compositing. Stack the frames additively so the moonglow stands out, then do the high-contrast stacking in autostakkert4 and combine the two images.
In this video āBarry Craigā mentions there is a community modding seestars. Does anyone have any idea? (Like replacing the sensor from color to mono maybe, then use filters in the front to do color?)
A descriptive video on how to open up your ZWO SeeStar S50 to gain access to the ALT motor and main controller board.
Hi guys, I've bought a Seestar at the beginning of January, so far I'm liking the ease of use, I've processed these 2 images, nothing too fancy, the iris nebula is 11 hours of integration time, M42 I don't remember, something like 3 hours maybe.
No idea how to make them show in chat tho
they dont show because discord doesnt embed .tif files
convert them to png then they will
ah, didn't know, there you go
very nice
does anyone have any up to date information on jailbreaking a seestar s50 for root SSH access?
all the information i can find is from several years ago and the provided root password of "raspberry" doesnt seem to work anymore
Whirlpool galaxy
Tried my best at processing M106 I got 3 hours of data on it in a bortle 3 sky at my local astronomy park there was some ice crystals and people coming in through the parking lot with their bights on seeped into the image nonetheless I am happy with the result ill shoot this object again when I go back in about a months time
im now realising just how much of a difference that being perfectly level makes
on the same setup and conditions, i went from a 40% to 20% error rate, the only thing i changed was the level being about -1.2 degrees off and tonight i got it to 0.0 degrees off
i was under the assumption plate solving would mean it wouldnt matter as much but that is very clearly not the case
also using the seestar ALP project on PC and it is so amazing
everything is so much more streamlined and efficent that i couldnt see myself ever using the mobile app ever again
doesnt take any complex setup or external hardware it just works
it even has station mode compatibility
i know right
i use it too and its awesome
i love being able to actually see the scopes efficiency in real time
i get that the seestar is supposed to be "idiot proof" so anyone can use it but i wish there was an advanced mode toggle to get access to these settings and statistics
but where close-source corporate firmware fails open-source community projects step in :3
nothing is ever idiot proof
Alt-az is very sensitive to being correctly levelled.
M95. Only 45 minutes this session, Iāll probably need at least 3x that.
Stupidly tried the built in AI denoise. Never again 
Never say never. Hereās 1.5hrs of crab stacked and processed on Seestar. Iāll need to get twice that before trying to stack it properly.
Sun from 2-25-25
Cuivās new video is interesting. An interview with the head of ZWO. EQ mode maybe as soon as next week, a dedicated Seestar EQ wedge/tripod product, new sensors for the S50 and S30 being evaluated, and the S70 is ārealā
M51, just over 2 hours and a half
Wishing well cluster
The ZWO Seestar smart telescope is not usually thought of as a serious astrophotography rig, but Dr. Kai Yung joins us again to show us what it can really do...
i definitely gotta start using the seestar alp at some point
I havenāt really felt the need but Iām glad it exists.
I stacked a multi night exposure of Horsehead and flame (around 2 hours of integration) and the stacking turned out pretty weird idk if itās because it added frames that arenāt good or because something else happened
I might stack it again but remove some bad frames, or just get more exposures because I feel 2 hours is not enough for a B7 sky
Yeah, more exposure needed I think to pull out more of the Ha area around the horse. Was this stacked on the Seestar?
Oh yeah, I see there are some weird artifacts from different panels. Might be worth checking if there were any frames with clouds or some other unusual gradient and strip them out
There was a night with clouds that came through, but I thought I had gotten rid of the frames with the clouds in them. And yes, this was deep sky stacked in the Seestar app.
Alright I re-stacked and edited it in LR mobile (for now) and it looks so much better. I used less frames and somehow the seestar stacked it correctly. Given that I donāt know how to properly stack a mosaic yet in Siril, I might try to get more exposures soon and stack in the seestar app, and then do some editing in Siril or other software.
I tried processing NGC7635 in Pixinsight, but I found out that I definitely need more data (I've 1174x10s right now) and I've no clue how to use the software properly.
Ye I found out the hard way processing thors helmet and it.... well let's say... it crashed my computer trying to denoise itš¤
at what point does diminishing returns make more photos of a deep sky object not worth your time?
ive got 4 hours of data of M1 and im wondering if i would be a waste of time to keep gathering more
ive done drizzling, deconvolution, background extraction, denoising, and GHS but im still not happy with what i have
I would go for like 8 hours thats what I did
did a reprocess of my data may try again some day as I think some of my data is out of focus or has a lot of start trails or smth or maybe I am just not very good at processing
My final image capture of Horsehead Nebula and Flame Nebula. Took multiple nights and got a total of 4 hours of exposure (1400 subs) which was deep sky stacked on the seestar app then edited on lr mobile. I plan on editing it on pc but Iām not gonna be doing it this week because Iām going on vacation.
m3 cluster
Need to get a wedge now. They said theyād release one.
I'm just using the one from my star adventurer 2i
Not greatest wedge but it was free and gets the job done
Update, looking stunning!! š
can you do 60s subs?
Not yet
But simply would just be enabling some software settings
only with external software
but yes it is possible with seestar alp or similar
Might have a play around with alp next week
Looks like their version of a wedge is just a tripod head https://h5.seestar.com/course/159727
is it a wedge they made for the seestar that you can get or do you have to get a random wedge
They said they would be making a wedge but you donāt need to use it. The video just shows what looks like a normal tripod head.
Honestly looks better than most guys who just get like 2 min of exposure and upload it to the seestar community thing
which is 90% of the seestar community
Testing EQ mode on M81 & M82. Pretty nice, but the best bit is that this is 3 hours of data that only took 3.5 hours. Normally Iād expect it to take 5 hours or so.
Yeah
I try to get images like this
Is it just me or are you ever so slightly out of focus
I'm attempting Hubble's V nebula
That last horsehead one got deep fried good image just tone down thet red
I autofocused, but the stars do look a bit more bloated than usual. I did have some light clouds and there may be some wind wobble from my dodgy tripod. Iāll see if it improves when I get round to processing.
if you got a hacksaw and knew where stuff is, could you modify a seestar for visual
No. Despite being a complete waste of money, a lot of the tracking depends on it having a camera.
You would get much better views from an 8ā dobsonian for the same price as the Seestar
Any suggestions for a eq mount or eq adaptor for a seestar s50?
This is what Iām using for the moment. Amazon Basics tripod, 15cm mount plate, 2x 1kg ankle weights tied around the base.
Does it work? Yes. But I wouldnāt recommend buying this setup because the tripod head is plastic and has a bit of wobble and it also has the wrong mounting screw (the plate has a 1/4ā screw in the centre so it can be screwed straight on). I needed to 3d print a 2mm thick washer to allow the Seestar to rotate freely on the plate.
Honestly if the mount plate wasnāt offsetting the centre of gravity I wouldnāt trust the head to hold it.
Yea I wouldnāt trust this tripod
Any other suggestions then? I don't have a seastar yet but I'm hoping to get one soon
Seastar... hehe
but really uhhhhhh
a better tripod
that you trust with the weight
it dpeends really
Does sea star have their own mount? On the app instructions it says something about adding the sea star mount to the tripod, am I missing something?
It looks more like an "adaptor"
No, not yet. They just show what looks like a standard video tripod head. I donāt think thats their solution as I would expect something that shifts the centre of mass on their own tripod.
Itās OK for now, the S50 is within the weight limit and the head feels secure. The problem is that itās a bit wobbly, a wind gust makes the legs vibrate.
Has anyone ever had this before with their s50? I checked the single subs and it's seems to be a stuck pixel. At least I assumed it is stuck cause it's in the same spot for all subs, also dead pixels are just off or black i think?
theres hot pixel removal things in the calibration settings
In pix?
seestar settings
Hmm okay. I'll have a look. Others have also said it is just cold pixels where resetting the seestar may help fix that
So I'm going to try that
Stacked some m81 shots and it isnāt final, I still wanna adjust some stuff and also try out Siril. I feel like it stacked some images with clouds unless itās just cuz of the light pollution
to cloudy to get anythin..
Is there any disadvantages with the s50 now that the sensor is discontinued?
Please @ me
Not really. The 462 has been discontinued (not manufactured by Sony) for many years now but existing stocks of the sensor are still selling. The replacement 662 has a slightly less noise than the 462 but it's not a deal-breaker IMO. Chances are that ZWO will update the S50 with a 662 or some other sensor later this year, or bring out the rumoured 'S50 Pro' (whatever that is), but no idea when that would be.
i need myself to work on getting a new rig at some point, i really wanna move on from the s50
Where are you located, I'll buy yours 
South australia lmao are you sure you want mine?
Damnit!
Hahahah no way
Same here!
Didn't expected another person from SA here
we are everywhere lmao
suburbs
Ahh nice nice
wbt u
Yeah suburbs
I'm still trying to save for a proper rig aswell
Wanna get a Umi17s and an Askar 71f and probably a Quattro 250 in the future
yeah im willing to switch to a canon camera with an eq mount
I got an astro camera and guide cam already
likely a t3i
ooh nice
Not a bad idea but at least find modded
There is a dude on fb marketplace that sells full spectrum cameras
yeah im in the process of finding a modded one
and just saving money
i really want one thats Ha modded
Look for these sorta posts
ohh yeah i'll definitely do that
He has a few on his pages and he is legit
Dm me and I'll send u his name and stuff or link
i'll consider it, rn just focusing on obtaining more money to afford one at the moment
585 sensor. Quadruplet instead of triplet. More storage.
The 585 gives a wider FoV I guess. I donāt know how they managed to solve the problem of field rotation.
it has eq mode now
Yeah, but itās not the default mode. I canāt see how a wider fov will work at all in alt-az mode
But getting it into eq is not that bad
They'll release their own "wedge" or if you have a ball head, you can use that
In terms of alt az with a wider for, not sure tbh. But also I don't have an S30 so idek how the current one performs. I do have an S50 which does good in alt az, but I mainly use it in eq
I mean it still has to work in alt-az mode, regardless of how well it works in eq mode
Yeah for sure. Idk, imma assume that ZWO has it figured out I guess š¤·āāļø
Depending on pricing tho, it would be something nice to pick up
And depending on the quality of it's 48MP sensor, would be a nice camera to use for long exposure, wide field, milky way shots. Without having to get a DSLR, Wide angle lens, tracker and modify it for the Ha signal
Iām interested to see what theyāll do with the S50 Pro. With a larger sensor the field rotation problem would be even worse and I doubt they can add cooling without destroying the battery life.
Maybe theyāll add a field rotator.
Had a good night with the s50
what i'm trying to do is like get a good rig but if i'm too lazy to actually do anything i'll just pull out the Seestar as my Travel rig or if theres not enough time to justify using the main
Do you know if thereāll be a s50 pro?
I've been doing stuff with the Seestar S50 that from what I've heard isn't possible.
That looks incredible!
They confirmed it but said no details until later this year
thanks! I pretty much run it every night. The M33 had only 1.5 hours, but it is too low to keep trying it now, the M86 was just over 8 hours, and the M101 was just over 14 hours worth
Is the Markarianās Chain one a mosaic?
Currently have a nexstar 130slt while I live at home in b3 skies but Iāll be off to uni in a few months and I donāt think having a newt in a city is a wise thing so was thinking of selling it for an s50 I bought scope for Ā£480 so I might get like Ā£350 ish for it.
Do yous reckon itās worth getting an s50 ??
Star adventurer tripod and mount head or telescope underworld wedge you can find that on etsy
Your M101 looks geat better than mine haha
nope, just centered on M86 and moved slightly with the joystick
I have a ton of tricks for processing in APP and Photoshop along with years of experience doign so
I am still a noob at processing but this is what I have with 9.5 hours in bortle 8 sky
here is a sharpened version
back off on noise reduction, select shadows and desaturate and darken them, then use selective sharpening on parts of teh galaxy
bump your vibrance and saturation some too
I am 100% APP and Photoshop, never even tried Siril
I love my s50, but I would hold off until we have a bit more information about the s30 pro
Ooooh, are we thinking it may be better?
I would like to see an S50 pro, or better yet, the S70 they teased last year
simon says the s50 pro is coming
It depends what for. Aperture is always going to win out for detail.
Quad APO š³
So you wouldnāt expect the S30 Pro to take better shots than the S50 for the sort of shots the S50 is good at
Yeah fairs, also I just canāt use my telescope to its ability, I canāt even prime focus without modding and i cba to do that so my roster of pics is tiny and wonāt really get any better š
As long as you don't expect IOTD quality from the Seestar you will be happy with it. I do recommend stacking your own subs, but you should still be okay editing the stacked fits file that is also saved. I do with the S50 had a better sensor and more internal storage though.
you honestly will be hard pressed to beat it for what it does at the price point it is at
maybe maybe. Cooling would be nice tho
1289 10s subs on M44, stacked in APP and finished in Photoshop using the S50
and 1540 10 subs on M13 too
2.5hrs on Crab
Has the s50 ever gone on sale ?
i also have another question, what CAN you use the SeeStar S50 for, like what should i expect to NOT be able to shoot?
would this tripod work to put the s50 into eq mode?
Itās not so good for widefield, the field of view is slightly larger than the sun or moon. You can mosaic for larger targets such as M31 or Rosette but itās not as good as the S30 for that. Itās also no good for planetary, except the sun and moon. In general images donāt have a huge amount of detail and itās very slow; you really need a lot of exposure time to raise detail above the noise floor and processing the data to get good results can be tough.
If you look at astronomy.tools or Stellarium you can enter the field of view details and see how a bunch of targets will look. There are loads of nebulae and clusters that work well with the field of view, but IMO most planetary nebulae and galaxies are slightly too small for the scope.
I don't want it for planet's, just nebula and stuff...
Yes, but a ball head is less than optimal
was on sale for like 450 like couple months ago
Have you tried eq mode yet?
no
don't got a mount for it yet any Suggestions
For like tripod mount for the goobe
r
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C13C4F1B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
This is the head that ZWO are rebranding to sell as their wedge
pretty much anything
Do you think it would be a great time to buy the Seestar S50? I wonder how the price will evolve and how probable it is that there will be improved versions in the near future. I live in the Netherlands by the way.
Thereās a āS50 Proā due out some time later this year but no date or details given
Here is what 850 20s subs get you on NGC 7023, the Iris Nebula, with the Seestar S50.
I would definitely hold off for the improved versions coming, unless you want to stay on the cheaper side
Yes has this been confirmed for this year? I saw the confirmed S30 Pro so it is likely. I wonder what these improved versions will cost.
Okay thank you!
They have said this year, but that could be next month or it could be Christmas. It may also be delayed.
tariffs have thrown timelines out of whack
Really? Where do you find this information?
Yeah probably also for Europe
It was mentioned by a rep on the ZWO official forum, but I canāt find the post now so it may have been removed.
Thinking about it, I believe they said the S50 Pro would be āat a later dateā so thatās not necessarily this year I guess
Also in an interview with Cuiv the Lazy Geek, the ZWO CEO confirmed an update to the S50 was ārealā
Personally, unless you have a need for it soon (like you plan to go on holiday), and with the nights getting shorter, I would hold off getting a S50 until after midsummer, see if they have announced a replacement by then.
Okay thank you for your advice!
we basically got confirmation of the s50 pro and s70 from that interview
That is not the best option, no
Beat option is a Skywatcher/iOptron wedge or a mount head like the Smallrig CH3. The mount head shown by ZWO seems to be a rebadged version of that Smallrig one.
Even my Amazon Basics tripod is better than this
ik its not the best option if you consider actual eq heads
im just saying that its my best option for the price and capability
similar to the zwo one, but not quite the same
ZWO is using a rebranded version of this head https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C13C4F1B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
Anyone have raw data they would be willing to share with me? Just want to see how I can edit photos from s50 on my mobile (I'm trying to convince my wife to let me buy one) hehe
I got some dsts if you give me little bit to get it
How would I edit dsts? Never heard of that file type ....
I currently have Lightroom on mobile, how do you currently edit dst files?
I'd be willing to share some of mine, but I REALLY don't think you want them since they are taken in basically the worst conditions possible
Would love to see what I can do tbh š¤
with your rosette, if you saved your frames, you can go in and delete the frames with the plane trails, and it'd look even better
Yeah but the thing is it was a mosaic so I couldnāt š¦
you can delete individual frams of a mosaic, although it does make the process much more complicated
Wait you can, how?
if you have the seestar set to save individual frames it'll save them just the same as a normal stack, and you'll need to use a mosaic tool to stitch them together
Ok thanks!
I actually use this wedge and I think its pretty alright for the price
it would be super good if you have it on concrete I only have a wooden deck off the ground and a muddy backyard
put it on the deck and a lot of my subs get dropped
put it in the muddy backyard and it sinks into the mud over night and starts to tilt
also those knobs are super hard to get to where the seestar does not move I have to use a hex wrench on those bolts to get them to hold my seestar
M81, 20 hours at bortle 5
i don't use mobile i use Siril and uhhmmmm GraXpert
M8- Lagoon
around.... 3 hours
only so i could get that nicer dust
for the lagoon it's so bright depending on bortle it shouldn't take much
Some objects I was able to capture in the southern hemisphere, hoping to capture some more but might be tough in the bortle that Iām in
Carina Omega and Cent A
Statue of Liberty Nebula
America nebula
I think you doxxed yourself
Nah weāre good, I was visiting a tourist destination when I took these
oh ur chilling then
someone send me your stacked fit of some galaxy taken whith seestar s50 i wanna post process š here are some of my post processes from this
to
this
You could try doing this. I captured it a while back
@buoyant quest
what do you think?
i tried to get rid of the noise and background but it not changed very much, from my experience try to do 1,1x mosaics to prevent this noise and the lines in the image, i always do 1,1 mosaics and dont get those so thats my tip
The color is good. I have one without noise if you want it, I used ai denoise
What software do you use for post processing
I wanted to stack that image in Siril and stuff but got too lazy and didnāt lol
After all the wait⦠It's comingļ¼
Introducing the Seestar TH10 Hydraulic Tripod Head ā the one that was worth waiting for. š
Ready to elevate your Seestar stargazing experience?
Official Launch: May 7, 2025ļ¼
#Astrophotography #seestarS50 #seestarS30 #Seestar #astronomy #astro
182
No idea how much
It looks identical to the Innorel F20, which has since jumped in price
What does it do?
It lets you use the Seestar in EQ mode. But itās just a tripod mount head.
let's gooo
Pretty sure it's the f10
and it's a pretty solid head (I've got it)
is catching a lunar transit of hubble or the ISS feasable with the S50?
iss yes, hubble not sure
You see my picture? S50 ISS transit
OH WOW
that makes me feel a lot better about my chances
this picture is awesome!!! this is easily one of the coolest things ive seen done with this "budget telescope"
Thank you! ~10 months with the scope. Been waiting for this day for awhile. Got the normal video out of scope, and clipped with my phones photo app.. PIPP tore those frames apart, grabbed the 23 frames with the ISS, used Luminar Neo to layer them,
Here is the video clip
framerate definetly isnt a problem, that was something i was worried about
I guess I got lucky on the focus?? Maths = 30fps.. 23 frames 0.78sec
I seen a Plane cross perfectly across it once before.... HANDS DOWN the most AWE moment with the scope EVER... And I wasnt recording... RIP
What's a good target to capture over the summer with a Seestar S50 in NYC?
I'm thinking either crescent nebula or western veil nebula
lagooo duoband
Took this last night 108 minutes worth of imaging
?
lagoon
only goes up to 25 degrees at its peak and my south is obscured
Omega Centauri

I was able to sneak in some imaging between the clouds last night
integration time?
I'm pretty sure it was 2 hours each
Also I gotta say, this looks DAMN GOOD for 18 mins straight out of the camera
I got this last night. It had been a week since the last clear sky and this was still thru a lot of light clouds but glad I got to get back to taking some photos. This was about an hour of 10 second subs for m51
Hey folks how safe is it to override the seestars level calibration? I just took it outside to image the sun and it told me that my tripod wasnāt level when it was and the only way I could get the two bubbles to meet on the Seestar calibration was by having the Seestar tilted. I then wanted to check if I was going crazy and set the Seestar down on a flat table without the tripod under it and it says that the Seestar is angled at 6.3 degrees. Should I just go ahead and recalibrate it or how should I go about this?
Your surface you put it on might not be level
Does it matter if itās on the tripod or not when calibrating? Because this is what my bubble level shows vs what the Seestar says on the same spot
I did also come back from travelling abroad with it so maybe it go messed up on the flights?
But the tripod is not 6.4 degrees off level though
Do the level sensor calibration
Will do
Iāve been using the Seestar S30 smart telescope in the backyard for 6 months now, and in this video, I share the incredible images Iāve captured with it!
SEESTAR S30: https://bit.ly/3YwSRug
IMAGE PROCESSING:
My Guide: https://astrobackyard.sellfy.store/p/0zsyyq/
FOLLOW ME:
Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/realastrobackyard
Instagram: h...
anybody have m51 seestar data they want to provide?
im looking for individual sub exposures
would this work with the s50?
The mount plate has a 1/4 size screw while the Seestar needs a 3/8 screw. It shows a picture that says 1/4 to 3/8 adapter but its with the mount head and not the tripod. So not sure if its just for that or if you can use it for the mounting plate
yes, but pick up a plate with a 3/8th screw, the adapters work loose over the night
where can i find one?
Did a reprocess on my M1 not too long ago its old alt az data that was star traily lmk what u think
Processed in Siril, SAS
Ngc 7331 and stephans quintet
1 month old photo
Total exposure time over 10 hours
Using mosaic mode just rotation (causing noise in corners) but worth cause i captured the stephans wuintet tho
M51 total exposure time over 6 hours
Sombrero galaxy total exposure time over 5 hours + croped image
And reprocesed m63 total exposure time 9 hours (captured during galaxy season)
Can you send me stacked fit of it i will process it i will try to reduce noise and stars and sharpen it in pixinsight
M81 and M82 total exposure time 23 hours
Thanks here ya go good luck
I am still kinda a noob at processing
Okay i will look at it in few hours im going to gym rn
@river vault when did you take the image i need a date for image solver to use spectrometric color calibration
@river vault
i got 2 versions
this is version 1
and this version 2
i cant send fit cause i dont have nitro but if you want fit files i will send here link from wetransfer
2 files sent via WeTransfer, the simplest way to send your files around the world
hope you like them i did not stretch it as your one but i think if you zoom in you can see more details
also the color is GREAT tbh
let me know what you think of it
ZWO actually asked if they could use this image. It was over 40 hours on M8, M20, and M21 using a combination of the S30 and S50 both in EQ mode with 60s exposures from each.
I got around 23 hours on M 27 here is a quick process of the image : D
New update. Apparently 4K mode is a 2x drizzle
hows that work
not the drizzle but like
does it upscale it after you image
like during the stacking part
either uses ai for upscaling or some magic
No itāll drizzle while stacking
3 hours drizzled, looks much better than standard (only in app adjustments made)
When the clouds role in early and thereās been a meridian flip after an hour and my final attempt to image this region came down to 11 mins š«©
Canāt wait to image this with a 533MC pro mosaic š
was looking through my lunar data with the s50 and found this frame, lucky!
final image, any tips and recommendations?
Perhaps a little less sharpening but other than that it looks good
Nice clean Dumbell
3 Hours no processing
I kinda expected to see this after I had left it out (would be due to rejection stacking or some other problems)
North America Nebular Mosaic (NGC 7000) only two nights. 287min Exposure.
Stacked and edited with Siril and Graxpert.
Cygnus wall 4h
Crispy
Can you take a picture of our Milky way with the s50?
No
Telescopes can't image the milky way
Without mosaicing, but I'm not crazy like that at all 
*sane people with telescopes cant image the milky way
Unless you dedicate your entire life to it, the S50 will miserably fail
Doesnāt the s50 have the mosaic feature now?
Yeah but it ain't enough for the milky way
create a gofundme for 200 seestar s50s so the mosaic can be finished faster
Unless you use the Mosaci feature for pannels.....
nto for the whole image just for one pannel
Gotta have a lot of clear skies lol, and dedication
And A Lack of Sanity...
Thatās pretty average for us
6.5 hours of M 16 from bortle 3
nice
@river vault if you want i can process ur image of pillars of creation and apply hubble palete colors and try process it
Sure that would be awesome
Ill stack that tomorrow when I have time in the morning
I use my USB-C to keep my seestar charged all night with a portable battery but I need that cable to also connect my external SSD
I'm considering buying an s50 and going to a dark site in northern Michigan for a weekend next month. Is there anything I should know or buy beforehand?
I've heard a lot about an eq mount , and it looks like my main target (Andromeda) will be passing right above me, but idk what to trust and buy
I'd do a s30 or a dwarf 3
Id recommend a camera tripod like this for a stable EQ mode
Would you mind sending a link for that?
Any works, just search which is available for fastest shipping
Anything specific I should look for in it? Also do I need the leverer thing?
Yes.
apparently it is sold availably in the US so here you go
Would this work with the s30?
They should have a normal camera thread attachement iirc
let me see
Eugh, doesnt look like it is
so something like this https://www.highpointscientific.com/zwo-tripod-and-tripod-head-for-the-seestar-smart-telescope ? Or is this too much
That should work
Anyone use the EQ mode? Is it worth it? Are 30 or 60 second exposures any better than 10 seconds? Hell is there any difference between 6 10 seconds and 1 60 second?
absolutely
longer exposures are always better
Isn't it still the same amount of data?
yes but fewer longer exposures will have less noise than more short exposures
S 30 is better for complete beginners if you are one
S 50 is fine if your willing to cram some knowledge in before you go
Caldwell 4 in Bortle 9 right over a bright highway I tried my best using 30s exposures and 120 gain this is about 19 hours
does the s50 need a dew shield or anything extra if im shooting at ~10 C overnight?
Yeah I would go for one
they keep surrounding light out too
where I am in the winter even with the dew heater it still gets frosted over without one
Iāve always had much better results with a dew shield at any time of year. Keeps the background under control.
At -10 you might need a dew heater but Iāve never seen one on a Seestar
is there a risk of it tipping over in EQ mode with the s50 tripod?
With an old/faulty tripod or user-error, yeah
but if youre absolutely sure its rocksolid and cant tip with some mild shaking then youre good
Does anyone know of a good tripod that could be used with the S50. I have a really cheap one back home but I donāt trust it enough to do eq
going off that, is the stock s50 tripod good enough for eq?
if you have Kai's weight bag and wedge yes
look up dew it all eq mount on etsy to find it its like 30 bucks
Skywatcher star adventurer its like 100 bucks
My Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/cuivlazygeek
My Merch Store: https://cuiv.myspreadshop.com/
What are your thoughts on this??
Get the Seestar S50! https://tinyurl.com/3n62hpzx or https://tinyurl.com/43r5pd6y (ZWO) or https://bit.ly/49mQhLJ (Agena) or https://bit.ly/45k7J1b (HPS) or https://tinyurl.com/2zanj43e (FLO) or https://tinyurl.com/2...
Where can you find it for 100$?
I found the mount but I would have to get the eq base + ball head adapter right?
Yes you would need the latitude EQ base
For EQ mode and I would also recommend vibration suppression pads or like drill some duvets into some wood planks to put under the tripod feet to dampen out vibrations
Also a weight to weigh down the tripod so the weight of the seestar does not tip it over
And a leveler if you want it
Oh yeah one more thing the locking lever you are going to want to replace
And a better shoe and 3/8 adapter
Is all this needed? Like am i gonna get shit results from just the stock tripod and the TH10?
No, if you wanna do eq mode, all you need is to tilt it appropriately, and align the axis to the north or south celestial pole
Iirc
I think the seestar has a built in feature to help you polar align, so you probably don't have to worry about a polar scope, and something like a tripod tilt head (that tells you what the angle is) should be fine
Honestly I havenāt seen a huge difference between EQ mode and AZ mode. A bit disappointing really. You have to be in really dark skies or take a lot of subs to notice a difference.
The main advantages of EQ mode IMO are a lack of field rotation artefacts around the edges of the image and the processing time and storage needed to stack all the subs.
Itās for if you want to go the route of getting skywatcher tripod and latitude EQ base I recommend you upgrade the mounting shoe as itās pretty bad
I somewhat agree I have no idea how people can get away with 60s exposures without like 90% rejection rates. Even 30s exposures have like 25-33% rejection rates when I am imaging close to Polaris and 35%-45% when I am not. I do the polar align many times to make sure I am getting a accurate reading and i am always 0,0 or 0,1 deviation
Yeah. I donāt think the S50ās tracking is good enough for long exposures tbh. Maybe if it could do guiding.
So even in eq mode the tracking is too poor to do 30s subs well?
Tracking and/or the joints are a bit wobbly. I think I have too much wind for it to work here; even on a mild day I lose subs due to wind and losing 30s due to a quick gust is painful.
Even when it worked, I couldnāt see any real difference in quality. This might depend on your local light pollution though.
So for me, I donāt feel itās worth the extra effort.
Is the mount balanced?
yes
Huh
i get eggs with eq mode at 10 seconds
Here is my stacked mosaic of the Carina Nebula from my trip to Australia.
Has anyone done a multi panel mosaic with the Seestar and Siril?
Yes, I found it best to use the naztronomy script. Using the default siril settings gave me really bad tiling artifacts
This is the difference in made (~1 hour of data)
i read that as something very different
Where do I find that script?
You can search him up on YouTube (naztronomy), he recently posted a video about it
Anyone know how to lose less frames? Even at 10 seconds, I'm losing around half. I think I'm aligning decently in eq
This is my final product of the heart nebula. About 4 hours of it running outside just to get 2h 15m of data š
That looks pretty good
Did you run it through graxpert?
I tried using it in Siril but it didnāt seem to do anything. Iāll have to go back and do that because the noise is brutal
Hereās the processed image through Graxpert
If properly aligned in EQ mode itās most likely to be wobble from wind (or ground shake if itās not 100% solid). I found a dew shield also helped because stray light sometimes threw it out.
oh gocha, i was imaging pretty close to the road so that might be why
would you mind sending me the data? I would love to try processing it
What would be the best way of sharing the data?
i usually zip all the frames and upload it to google drive
Okay I can try and do that and share the drive
Though Iāve used mega before too so Iāll have to see how much space I have on my drive first
@sleek knoll Here's the link to the google drive with the data:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1IB1ICf_dWeeTxwHe-par0QglLf866x1b?usp=share_link
Let me know if you have any issues with it
well this is what i get
clearly youre much better at processing than me š
i swear every image i process turns red
I had that same issue when doing my first process. Iām not great at processing, I just watch tutorials and just change some of the values of the stretches and thatās about it
Though I didnāt de-noise this image well enough
yeah i really gotta start watching some more videos
i watched one and thought i was ready
I just watch deep space astro, he has a lot of good tutorials but honestly your process is good
I think i clipped the background a little, ill try again tomorrow
Shot that on my S50. Had to use some ai frame interpolation to smooth it out. S50 only shoots 60fps.
Not a lot of frames for a 1.072 second transit time
around 1400 x 10s
but like half were just of the core
im going to try to get some more data on the outer edges tonight
Iām assuming you used the planning/ scheduling feature on the Seestar?
nah, just different nights
i saw that my first few nights werent getting a lot of signal on the outer edges
ah okay makes sense, I'm currently using the Seestars scheduling feature to shoot the cygnus loop. Hoping if weather is good I can shoot it tomorrow night as well
Just finished two nights of the Cygnus loop with around 5:30h of data hoping to process it tonight
1027 10s exposure with 3 separate mosaics stitched together
Ignore the top left š
Reprocessed this one a bit
Who that's sick
How do you stitch together different mosaics?
Essentially take a couple mosaics with the Seestar, then put the exposures into a lights folder, set the home directory, and lastly use the Siril DSA (Deep Sky Astro) mosaic script. If you go to YouTube search Seestar mosaic tutorial and deep sky Astro has a good one
caldwell 30 quick take
processing this was messy, might go back and shoot a few hours of ha
is that with the lp filter?
no lp
the nebulae had some faint red after spcc so i just cranked the red to max post process xd
owl cluster
a way i found out how to get sharper/smaller stars is using cosmic clarity's stellar sharpening script on the starmask, then setting it as a "screen" above the starless in post editing software and play around with the curves
trying to push details
Should this have this kind of play in it? I'm only able to get 30-40% of my subs because of star trails no matter what I do and I suspect this might be why
And yes I've leveled it, level calibrated, compass calibrated, and prayed to the star fairy. It's barely a month old so if something is bad inside it's getting sent back
Have you tightened the screw down?
What screw? You mean tightening it down onto the tripod? Of course.
I've never gotten like aggressively tight but I've gotten it snug
ya thats normal
i got similar rejection rates before until i bought a wedge for eq
now im getting 70-80% of subs
Do you think it's because it's so light that wind does that?
Btw, what's your favorite brand of hot chocolate?
i think alt az is harder for it to track cause it has to move up/down and left/right a lot compared to a wedge that moves with the sky naturally?
some people had better luck with alt az
idk.....
I used to get closer to 70% doing 10 second exposures. So that slop is normal on it?
I'm using it in Bortel 3.8 skies so it's not like it's a light pollution problem.
normal slop
i would recommend a wedge
I tried mounting it to my EQ mount with a 3d printed 3/8 to vixen adapter. Stupid thing cracked. Gonna have to get an aluminum one or something
re edited my orion but i think i over did it a bit
sculptor galaxy reprocess
too much deconvolution me thinks
had this ugly blotching
hopefully i wake up to something good š
ngc 1055 and m77
this wasnt a serious shoot but im suprised by the detail i got for only 2 1/2 hours
will go back and shoot them seperately
i got like 2 hours last night, then while editing i realized i need a lot more data
so im gonna keep imaging tonight and tomorrow
ooo
Anyone know if theres a better way to combine lp and nonlp frames rather than just stacking them as one?
Like, to improve contrast? I think you can stack it, then use it as luminance frame for pixel math. Siril has pixel math if you don't have anything else. Though you'll definitely need a video, cause I have 0 clue how to use if lol
oversaturated and messed up the background but idc anymore
restacked with 3x drizzle but i cant get it to look how i want
Ok I need a legitimate tripod to use EQ mode with my S50. It just fell out of the saddle of my ST1 steel tripod I use for my mak-cas. Thank God it didn't hurt it.
cosmic keyhole, right is hubble
a little star cloud next to omicron persei a and b
finally an image im actually kinda proud of
only around 3 hours exposure
ill have to wait until monday night for good weather
Thats pretty good for only 3 hours
fr, it took a lot of denoising tho
16 hours of Caldwell 12 in Bortle 9 I plant to double the amount of hours I have in it so far
I am also doing like 30 second exposures with 120 gain in Seestar_alp
Do you find adjusting the gain helps? Iāve not tried alp yet but I always wondered if there was a more optimal setting since the subframes never get saturated by stars.
I do it helps a little bit in squeezing every photon you can out of your exposure but it turns the already noisy seestar data into even more noisy seestar data
not a big problem if you are just sacking intergration like 30+ on targets that is not like Orion or Andromeda or something
Yeah, being an uncooled camera it should benefit because it would swamp out the read noise even if it amplifies the shot noise (I think thatās right?) so long as it doesnāt lose data through clipping.
yeah fr
idk when it will be clear again for me with no moon as mid october-march is quite cloudy where I am
this looks like scnr
Like what?
SCNR, it looks like you used SCNR, so the "Remove Green Noise" button
Probably, why?
Does it drop the quality
Kills data and colour
Whoops
yeahh
It basically destroys your green channel
Itās recommended you donāt use it until you are done stretching
I re did the process on this
