This will vary depending on the exact specification of your scope and equipment but I'll provide my measurements. For me, it boiled down to a distance of 205mm between the focal plane and the secondary mirror along the optical axis, aka 245mm distance between the primary mirror and secondary. Take note however that this is in my specific case where I'm working with an Orion Starblast tube and the Sharpstar 0.95x Coma Corrector where I'm trying to get the focal plane as close to the secondary mirror as possible without the coma corrector protruding into the tube. Also, because of this 205mm distance which is far greater than stock, to maintain field illumination, I found that a roughly 60mm secondary mirror provides good field illumination across an APS-C sized sensor (albeit I'm using a 1 inch sensor and a 62.5mm secondary in actuality).
#Small Newt Owners
1 messages · Page 3 of 1
Really?!? This is mine with only 12 minutes of exposure
holy
Maybe im overprocessing? I dont have PI so I use siril
depends on light pollution, and the scope aswell
@olive moat would an imx571 sensor be able to capture more than the Uranus-C? Or would there be vignetting?
Wow which newt
i was watching one of astro biscuits vids and he cuts his tube down what is the purpose of doing that
decreasing the focal lenght, so it would fit his luggage
I'll assume you meant to tag me and yes, and quite substantially. The imx571 is an APS-C sized sensor and is much larger than the imx585. There will be vignetting but given the modifications i suggested (i'm also assuming we're talking about our starblasts), it's as good as you can get in terms of optimal field illumination.
not only the focal lenght, the lenght of the tube itself
i got a 200p dob and was thinking taking the ota off it and putting it on a mount with a dslr but then it prob wont focus
is there a way to make it focus e.g cutting down the scope?
try if it focuses first
Thats not how that works
Cutting the tube does not decrease focal length
Cutting the tube pushes the focal point further out the focuser. If the mirrors are a certain focal length, they will be that focal length
move them closer to each other and the fl decreased
alr, im dumb
The focal length is the distance between the mirror and the focal point, where things come into focus. Cutting the tube does not change this, the focal point is just moved
If the secondary is brought closer to the primary, the focal point is just moved further out the focuser
The focal length is unchanged
The primary mirror curvature is the one which changes it?
Yep, now it does
You know how some newts need the primary mirror to be raised a bit to reach focus with DSLRs?
Raising the mirror just pushes that focal point out far enough for a DSLR to reach
But isn't the mirror shaped to a fixed focal legnth?
It is shaped to a fixed focal lenght, read the stuff above
Oh yeah I didn't see that sorry
Anyway to see how bad it is? Astronomy.tools?
can't think of any off the top of my head. The newtonian telescope designer from bbastrodesigns can sorta give a visualization but it just provides a graph of magnitude loss as you move further off axis. This designe is what i used to find the optimal secondary size as it also provides a graph that shows total field illumination loss
Going to make a revised version of this soon
Then I'll do a rebuild of my 100mm reflector
wow
@deep fog It won't come to focus with my sharpstar coma corrector so I'm going to have to push the mirror forwards. Might mean a larger secondary is needed which is troubling for such a small scope
I'd like to avoid widening the stock focuser hole in the OTA bc I don't really want the CC to obstruct any of the light path
thats either a VERY small newt or a VERY big focuser🤣
@patent spoke How much does the OTA weigh? (with rings)
Damn, but so is these small newts. Only if there was a good low profile CC, that would make everything so much easier
This might have been discussed before, but can a am5 handle a 8 inch f/4 newt?
yes
Can the tc40+ pe200 handle that?
Just purchased an AM3 second hand which means I can begin using my little reflectors properly. My 4"/100mm reflector is going to the wayside for now. I've got my 4.5" 'imaging' starblast ready
I think I'll need to push up the primary mirror a little ways since my Sharpstar coma corrector sticks into the light path
Secondary big enough?
Should be
the imaging version of the starblast shipped with a large secondary
Some falloff with my 533 but it's fine
@deep fog added a filter drawer to my imaging train. So flange distance (12.5) + filter drawer (21mm) + CCA (12.5) + 12mm = 58mm back focus. I think I have that right.
yea that sounds right. what's CCA btw?
The manual rotator. I forgot what it stands for. Might be CAA
oh interesting
Camera Angle Adjuster.
I’m sure you could just rotate it in the focuser but it’s just smooth and locks really nicely.
oh thats nice
Just got down 2.5hrs with the Starblast on the AM3. First time since beginning the project two years ago that it’s had a proper chance
Tiny newt
what kinda guiding were you gettin with it btw
Last night I saw as low as 0.35 and up to 0.7 but typically was in 0.4-0.5 total RMS
Yea it’s pretty nice to work with
i needa switch to harmonic, my cgem struggles stay below 1 which would technically be fine for my pixel scale of 1.4 but often jumps enough in either dec or ra to cause minor trailing
It’s pretty good, my SA-GTi definitely wasn’t up to the task. I have a pretty busted AZ-GTi which I’m planning to convert the RA/AZ axis to a harmonic drive
oh that'd be sick
Umi17 here. budget version of the AM5 (sub 1" RMS )
damn, i really need to get on it. definitely needs to be my next upgrade
then again, i haven't imaged with the rig in a while
constant night cloud coverage for months here in socal
If you jump onto the discord. I think there’s a sale for their new model.
oh wow yea, that's a lot more umi17 models than when I last was around
Smol newt
Hello Hadley
Speaking of small newts, i need to reprint the the body for the 76mm parabolic cube newt
DAMN that's a small newt
Hmmm I have the answer to the Starblast setup with an imx571 sensor….will you have vignetting? Yes. 😂
I have the image train pretty much optimized in back focal distance. Filter drawer is next to the camera. I think the cultprit is the secondary. I’m using a 60mm right now I think. May need to try the 63.
I am using the 47mm secondary that came with the imaging version of the starblast and I definitely need a slightly larger one
I'm still trying to figure things out for the calibration frames. The quick uranus-c is able to pull off fast exposures for the biases. I'm not sure what the imx571 can do. It couldn't do .4ms. What's a good bias speed?
Also I'm new to cooled cameras - it seems to not always hit the target temp. Like it forgot it needed to keep going or something. And then I turn it off and on and it goes the opposite direction.
Take 1s biases
this might be a sharpcap issue rather than the camera. I am able to take .4s exp with nina but sharpcap has half exposed and half black
oh damn i didn't know you got an imx571, which manufacturer?
Just got it. Touptek
sick
yea, at f4 with the sharpstar, which just covers up to aps-c, you're gonna have to be very careful on your collimation and distances
Do you think I need to try to adjust the back focus to fix the coma or vignetting?
well if the path is clear, i.e. you're not using small filters or somthing, there isn't much you can do about vignetting. If your coma seems off in eveness, then it's collimation, if it's off but even around the field, then its back focus. So imo, don't worry about vignetting too much, spend the early part of a night collimating the scope as best as possible, then start adjusting backfocus
Yeah I collimate before every session. However I think the plastic parts have fatigue and so any slewing changes the collimation ever so slightly.
I might have to make a new spider.
That last one looks like James Webb refraction spikes
Can you send pic of the nest you used?
Nest?
What scope you have?
Does it have 3 bars holding the secondary mirror? Or 4 bars?
#1081706121468854324 message
Yeah I got a newt with 3 (forgot the name ) the things that hold the secondary
It’s the orion skyscanner 100mm
Is it the table top one?
yup
Does the focuser have enough travel to focus a astro Cam?
Maybe an astro cam but not a dslr also note that u can only collimate the secondary
Alright thanks
About 5.5 hours with a 130pds and a stock d5300. Still not great in taking flats but feel like it's pretty good. Should I go on to about 10/15 hours?
Saturn with my 4 inch Heritage 100p and a sony a6100 in prime focus. Stack of 95. Not much but I'm proud.
4" newt my beloved
A little over 4hrs on M101. I just threw this into photoshop then siril to clean it up. I haven't stacked or processed data in nearly two years so I'll probably have someone else process it once I get more time on it
4.5"
and the performance looks pretty good
I chopped off 50mm from the back of the tube yesterday. I’ll push up the primary more than it has been before but the secondary I have should still be fine with flats
yes
@pliant vapor
Sorry idk why I haven't pinged you here yet but here's a group of ppl using small newts
This is very cool, thank you!
Small newt supremacy
It should be, tho I'll note that if the ratio gets too off, as in the ratio of the distance between the mirrors and the size of the secondary, field evenness will go away, i.e. visible vignetting, but you'll start getting total illumination loss
I'd rather have vignetting if it can be corrected
I had vignetting already does that mean I have room to push it up?
Or maybe my secondary is too small idek
533 small 16mm diag sensor
@patent spoke What coma corector you are using on yours mini newton ?
Sharpstar 0.95x with a 2" crayford. 3D printed a flange to hold it on
47mm diagonal from factory
Vignetting is just caused by the inability of specific parts of the sensor to see the whole primary mirror. If you move the primary up, so the mirrors becomes closer together, and thus the sensor moves farther away from the secondary, then vignetting will start to go away but this occurs become the zone of vignetting is becoming smaller, as in it is closing in on the center of the sensor. Essentialy, the center is becoming dimmer, not that the outer parts are becoming brighter. If we want the outer parts to become brighter, you basically need to increase the size of the secondary, or push the sensor closer to the secondary and thus the mirrors farther apart from each other.
Interesting very helpful
My plan would be a used dual speed crayford
I want to minimize secondary size and light path protrusion from the focuser
I’m not sure I fully understand how to use a newt calculator
As in the parameters it really gives you
If you want to know the numbers simply, a secondary of size of roughly 58mm provides the best total field illumination for an aps-c sized sensor. This provided our specific newtonians and adjusting them optimally. Though if I set it to be optimal for the 533, then a 54-56mm secondary works better
https://www.bbastrodesigns.com/NewtDesigner.html#diagonal This is what i use btw
Design a Newtonian telescope.
set the telescope parameters, easy enough
then set the focal plane to diagonal distance to 205mm, this is about as close as you can get with our starblast setups
then set to max field damater to the sensor size
set acceptable magnitude loss to 1, this is just for the graphs really
then input several diagonal sizes to see how they stack up
should look something like this
the important graph is the right one since that tell you the impact on illumination loss accross the entire field
if you care about vignetting though, then the left graph is more useful as it shows how hard the falloff will be
and it lines up as expected, if we continue to increase the secondary size, then vignetting will start to go away, i.e. it moves farther and farther away from the center, but peak illumination starts to drop because the increased secondary size is starting to block more and more of the primary mirror
that's why there is an optimal point of secondary size where we trade field evenness for greater field illumination (or less field illumination loss)
At 60mm I’m getting vignetting and bad coma with my setup on the apps-c
I’ll have to look into the back focus and check my work again
Is this 205 value so that the draw tube doesn’t enter the tube at all?
I figure it should be fine to go into the tube so long as it doesn’t intrude into the 114mm mirror path
yea, so it doesn't protrude at all, the main reason i don't go all the way down to the 114mm mirror path is that light coming in off axis, specificaly from the direction of the draw tube, will be obstructed by the draw tube
vignetting sounds normal, but that coma needs fixin, but you got that
I’m wondering if the coma was always there but with the 585 sensor being so small, it just never showed up.
very possible, going from the 585 to the 571 is a big jump
and considering you/re on a fast f4 system, you're gonna need to be very exact on your alignments to get everything right
Yeah I need to do some adjustments. I’m off somewhere.
No, I am waiting for a coma corector. Also I want to design for it a electronic focuser.
Loose focuser
****ing ups destroyed everything man, I waited two months for the mirror and accessories to arrive to fix the bottom and secondary, and I just found out that this is loose
And I requested refund two months ago, never heard from them, do not ever ship your telescope with ups
sorry for the rant, but I still manage to get the scope to work, and here is the first light
I just got Tiangong with my 4 inch. I can't believe it. I will post it later.
I didn't know I could get it with a small reflector
Wow that's great
Is a 6inch dob consider a small newt?
probably not

It’s a thin boi
but is it big
5" and below I'd say
Such a cute lil newt
Hes a bigger boy now he's growing but still smol
Is a 130/650 considered a small newt?
2222
Make sure ur not clipping anything there it looks like ur getting close to clipping
Also maybe try and fix that core it's like pure white
Blurx on that would look awesome tho
Here is a lighter processing
Hm are you limited by your atmospheric seeing?
5 inches or below (130mm is 5 inches) so ye
Perfect
Hes growing more (still smol)
WIP of dumbbell
Orion spaceprobe 130st
Yess smol scope done
Awesomeness
Is an 8" newt considered to be smol?
no
They are pretty big actually. Very good for beginners who just want to get a good look at stuff
I have a pretty small one
The cat makes it more effective
Nice jwst sticker
Just got a very smol newt
F9 76mm
I'm after the smallest newt of all for a portable visual project. 50mm f/4 
Goodluck 
you may have to make it yourself
unless a company sells it
damn
Can anyone recomend me a dew band for my 130pds? I just cant find any
just isn't sold in the US
O
ditherr
I hardly know her 
Dont got a guide camera
Also that’s not waking noise I just make the background look weird while trying fix some stuff
Simple moon picture while I wait for a good night
I have the SWSA I can’t dither unless I have guiding because I can’t connect the mount to my computer
damn that sucks
Isn't it called Sarblue in the US?
That's the Mak, the 50mm newt isn't sold under a brand with that blue casing. It is sold by Celestron under a different colorway but it's like $40 with $30 shipping lol
Ah ok. $70 is high for that
Yea I'm not looking to spend that much for a 50mm spherical reflector
If I could get one for pretty cheap that'd be nice
Look on ebay fb etc
Been rough. Can't really find one in the US
Not on any site used
Oh dayum
gonna have to move the mirror up on the 76mm, can't reach focus even with a barlow 
(im just gonna see how it does for planetary)
what mout?
whats that like fuzz thing on the right
Planetary nebula
It's tiny. I think it's smaller than ring nebula
Ring nebula field with same scope, but with my 224mc.
Actually, it's pretty much the same size. Maybe a bit smaller
All Fov 
AVX
Woops I meant mount
Ah ok
Imaging the ring nebula rn with the 224MC, this lil cam is nice
Yes, it should turn out very well. I plan to take more photos with it until the end of the year. Due to the smaller pixel size, it ends up capturing more details of the smaller nebulae... Unfortunately, it's the camera I use for guiding in PHD, so I'll have to do short exposures/lucky imaging
I did this one with a 290mm. The antennas of the Trifid Nebula slug appeared. It's something quite difficult to capture with a 4-inch Newtonian
Hubble image
does 6" count as small

5" and smaller I believe
can we have Large Newt Owners 
That's Planetary Imaging
Then make one
It’s called Big Newtonian Talk it’s already a forum
I'd say I am in that club
Not necessarily
kinda ded
what focuser is that
if thats a 2 inch focuser holy shi thats big
a tiny one, def 1.25"
yeah i would hope
or that scope is like astronomically big
also that focuser is way too small for that scope
1.25" unfortunately
I am 5'10 and a half and it's up to my chest
Thicc boi
Moon from last night
114/900 + sv905c
Diy 114 newt 7 minutes b9
Ignore those artifacts its a friends dslr I had to use cuz mine ran out of battery
Just 7 minutes,wow! Gotta try and image it myself when I build my 114
Got two clear nights in a row with my modded starblast setup. I can't leave it out all night because of my wack imaging location
But I got a few hours on the crescent nebula.
I really need to work out a better power solution soon though
It's all I had at the time and I just kept it since it worked so well. I'm using it to prevent light leaks that I was getting
I should replace it at some point to help with cooling, but the mirror is so small it might not matter much
Its not pretty (weird artifacts), but heres a shot at lucky imaging with the 5 inch and 224MC. First image is 3 hours of 5 sec subs, 65% stacked. Second is 10% out of 3 hours worth of 1 sec subs, so the second image is only about 30 mins.
I just need to work on my processing with this data, its not easy
Here is my work with the asi224mc
This is my work with the 224, but i used a 12” dob lol
The image is untracked
300ms
Can someone help me with my stars
I cleaned the mirror and collimated and now my stars look bad
focus
these look normal wdym
Normally they look better like smaller and sharper
And unfocused they were round and not oval
That looks perfectly normal to me
I'm receiving my chesire piece today. Do you guys have good instructions on how to use it properly? I have the feeling my secondary is not properly alligned. I'm getting a weird gradiënt on almost all my exposures
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804705743100.html I want to do a 130mm f/4 build with this so bad
But I'd need a doner scope and chop the tube like I did my 114
Found a Gsyker 130eq scope that sucks bc of its spherical optics but the rest of the OTA looks good
No
5 and below

Ahaha, I was looking at that too a while ago, once I have the funds Im definitely gonna try a project like that x)
Thinking of getting a second hand 130pds, since it would already have decent parts, and just chopping the tube down a bit
After I got my chesire yesterday I thought I noticed some tilt problem from the focusser on my 130pds. Fixed it (I think), checked the collimation with a laser and yesterday evening I did a star collimation. I have a baader mpcc mk3 coma corrector. Stars in the corners look like crap though. Do anyone know what this could be?
^stars in the bottom right corner
Full single 4 min sub from a d5300
These are printscreens from remote desktop so the gradient Is more present
I’ve been having a hard time finding a used 130PDS that isn’t marked up a bunch because of upgrades
Colimation probably
Damn not bad
Better than what i can get with my 6 inch quattro on a eqm35 unguided
@fierce python By closely looking at the two of them, I have reason to believe the Gsyker 130 is exactly the same as the 130PDS except the mirror is spherical and the focuser is 1.25" apparently. The paint job looks the same, along with the tube rings. Resisting the urge to drive 45 minutes to buy this thing
Tbh the only reason I want a 130pds is that its popular, and has a decent 2" focuser, so I feel like its the better option to get a decent focuser on a second hand scope....Im just interested in that tbh 😆
I looked up the gsyker 130, and it indeed looks almost identical, just the focuser and optics being different it seems
Though for a 1.25" focuser, it doesnt look bad at all
It looks like the focuser plate should accept a sky-watcher 2" focuser and thus, this thing https://www.ebay.com/itm/145729234867
I'd really rather not buy a 130PDS just to chuck the primary and chop down the tube so this looks like my best and smoothest option for an f/4 build
Ahhhhh, I see, that indeed makes the choice much easier if you can just replace it easily
https://www.teleskop-express.de/en/telescope-accessories-5/focusers-adapters-motorfocus-296/focuser-telescope-attachment-297/ts-optics-adapter-to-skywatcher-newtonian-telescopes-for-the-rap2del-focuser-15805 this too if I want to keep a more conventional flange-type focuser that I already have but this isn't sold in the US
Yeah it does, I would only do that to a 130pds if I could easily change between f/4 and f/5 somehow, or if I find one second hand with a broken primary or smth
If you wanted to change to F/4 you'd have to put the mirror on some really tall stilts
I don't yet know how much I'll need to cut off the tube though
If I knew that existed a while ago I would have definitely got that 😆 That was 3 years ago though when I still used my newt
Yeah, or having a dedicated mirror cell for both, with different distances....but then there is also the secondary mirror issue x)
Swapping the secondary mirror or the whole vane itself isn’t too hard but having to tweak it every time might get annoying. Still it might be worth it to have a sorta modular f/4-f/5 imaging system
Yeah its just annoying to re collimate all the time.
Indeed, could be interesting. I feel like it would have even more potentiel for people who wanna go between smth like f/4 and f/6-8 to be able to switch between dso and planetary or galaxies or smth
It would definitely need a quick swap system for the secondary though 😆
I think I have a decent idea for that but the spider vane would have to be decently beefy
Well, a lot of recent dso scopes have very beefy milled aluminium spider vanes, so I guess thats not that bad, but I think thick vanes are more annoying for planetary
Dunno if the best system is one where the entire spider is removable, or if only the mirror should be removed
Entire spider seems like it would be easier to keep good collimation, but its more costly
I'm not sure if this is necessarily a good idea, but the secondary could be held on by a large ring magnet that's centered onto the (collimation plate?) of the secondary holder. The part that's attached to the secondary mirror with the magnet would be keyed to the other part that's attached to the vane
That wouldnt be a bad design I think, as the magnets would just need to hold it in place, the precision would come from the keys? (dunno if thats how its said 😅)
Only issue could be sudden connection of the magnets, but I think making that manageable wouldnt be too hard
I think it might be possible to develop
Gskyer 130 secured. Unfortunately it is a weird triple vane model that I can’t find too much evidence of existing but I’ll probably swap it out anyway
I’d like to redo my trivane to make it more sturdy. But it’s plastic.
If there is anyone here that has a 130PDS and is willing to help me out with a couple of measurements please let me know
Here’s what the tri-vane looks like. The outer lip is molded in with the vane which isn’t ideal but there are four mounting holes which I might be able to string a 4-vane through. If not, i may deal with my tri-vane look for a bit
Yeah that’s my Starblast. I think I need to do some modeling to redo it. Make a mask to drill the holes and recycle another 114’s vanes
Considering doing the same for this 130
There are a ton of power seekers on marketplace; maybe find some junk pieces. lol
There's a 130SLT on CN for $50... I could pull the vane from that and the mirror and use it as f/5 for a little while until I'm ready to chop the tube and go for f/4
Lol if I had waited a couple of hours to just get the SLT I'd be good with that alone and just modify that OTA SMH
I know there are some companies selling upgraded 4 vane spiders for 130mm scopes, that might be an option. Would be a bit expensive though
Why are focusers so goddamn expensive
All I want is a decently accurate tube that moves up and down!
Not that hard to make and not charge 40000000000000000000000000 dollars for
Fr though. Like 200 bucks just for a focuser 
For a tube that moves
for a tube that moves precisely is more the issue, and the reason its expensive. That and the fact that the amount made isn't huge, so prices are higher
lol how would the diffraction spikes look on that
interesting
Basically like JWST, 6 spikes
I have a 130pds so maybe I can help you out
The base of the focuser has a flange that might look like this. It doesn't need to have the tab at the bottom, but I'd wondering what the diameter of that is
From what I can tell it looks sturdier than the stock 4-vane
When I'm back home I'll take a look for you
Thanks I appreciate it
Hey man, my caliper is not big enough🥲 looks like it's 100mm but I'm not entirely sure
No problem, that basically answers my question, I appreciate it!
Your welcome!
Looks like the focuser plate that came with this telescope definitely won't be large enough for a 130PDS focuser RIP
I think I can sell it for a decent price at least, it's a pretty nice 1.25" crayford
I have a 130pds
Printed spider + front lip. This OTA does not have holes for a secondary mirror holder yet. I thought that was going to be a huge problem for me, but it seems like F/4 scope have their mirror holders closer to the focuser than f/5 scopes so I have a blank slate to work with.
Eventually the vane/holder will be separated from the front lip but this should work for planning purposes.
Focuser baseplate is complete
Nice!
It’s so cool we have 3D printers
Some plastic piece with Astro in it’s name could be sold for 20 bucks
But we can 3D print it for few cents lol
Seriously lol it's such a privilege to just be able to synthesize whatever we need within reason
I would like to experiment with more demanding filaments. PLA and PETG have been good but I have an enclosed printer!
I know right, like it’s so cool it literally opened me a whole new world
Once I have a garage or some kind of workshop, I wanna get one of those desktop SLS printers. By the time I have a space for one, they'll probably come down in price with more competition
Even tho I’m an Ender 3 user I still love tinkering and stuff
Yeah I heard they’re getting cheaper and cheaper
I used an ender 3 regularly from 2018 up to earlier this year. Great printer overall but mine was getting pretty tired and I wanted something new
That’s understandable
I’m planning on doing lots of upgrades to my printer
New board,cooling fans and stuff
I did a few. I have the first run of ender 3's so I upgraded the board, build plate, and installed a probe leveler. since mine was an early run, I got one with the junk XT60 connectors. At one point I found it charred and melted so I replaced it immediately. Very scary stuff
I would like to get a resin printer too since I wanna do stuff with custom digital watches
I wanted to get a resin printer first because I was keen on scale modelling that time but as I realised that resin printers won’t be quite enjoyable to use without a proper workshop space,so I chose Ender 3 and now I print mirror holders and stuff dirt cheap
Yea resin printers are a chore from what I can tell
Another advantage that with FDM printers printing big parts like primary mirror holder is a lot more cost effective that with resin
Ye,you have to cure the resin after printing and all that,I don’t really have the conditions in my apartment where I can safely (for printer and for me) place all this stuff
someday
I’m planning on having some kind of workspace garage when I grow up lol
Would be pretty useful if I’ll still be keen on diy,I think I will lol
So yeah,someday…
Whaaaaa
2x barlow imporoves that much?
No way
I am gonna use it next time for sure
For a scope yeah but for other things no but if its a 6 inch refractor than thats a different story
He already had a high focal lenght and also he has a small sensor
no bro 5 inch and below newt is small
Bro 6 inches is on the small end of the scale considering the smallest newtonians are only 3 inches and the biggest are over 8 meters
nah 6 is midrange
think about how many people actually have scopes over 16 inches
majority have around 6
but 6inches is huge
I see more 8 and 10 than 6 inches
I also have 900mm fl and small sensor (Logitech webcam c270 old one)
astro with a webcam
Anyone doing star collimation on a regular basis?
Looks close to me but wondering why the vanes look a bit off
this looks odd
Tilt maybe?
Maybe ur spider vanes arent tightened up for the tube
I cant do star collimation cause every time i touch the collimation screw the stars move 97754336743° off the frame
you havent tried star collimating a 10" with 1000mm fl and an imx715 sensor
I have an asi585 with a 6inch and 600mm focal lenght
not that bad
@deep fog I'm doing another small telescope build, this time a 130 F/4. The secondary mirror stalk is longer than one that's typically on an F/4 so I'm probably gonna run into some bending issues. Did you ever figure out your flexing problem?
Tbh not entirely but then again, ive been so busy lately and with the bad weather, i actually havent imaged in months
I should be more busy with important university stuff but I can't help it lol
And I'm working on a digital watch project smh
Lol yea uni is getting in a way for me too. In my final year so im focusing pretty much all of my energy on getting a job as soon as im out. Still doing a little bit of stuff astro related but theyre mainly programming projects. Rn im making a C library to interface with SER files similar to the CFITSIO library which interfaces with fits files.
Kinda wanna get started on embedded stuff tho so i might buy some pis and microcontrollers soon
And maybe soldering stuff
I have several electronics projects I've been wanting to do
but I am not a programmer so it's always pretty tough for me to get started
The watch project comes first, then a solar energy harvesting project, then after that combine the two somehow
Mmmmm ok ok
I love my gadgets but everything I want doesn't exist
https://www.reddit.com/r/cyberDeck/comments/1f2z18k/windows_11_phone_palmtop_wip/ Recently completed my dream pocket laptop thing though
that was nice
It me 😎
Now I need a Casio DBX-100 calculator watch that's also a smartwatch and that'll probably kill me
Actually sick projects
Then I'll have my retro inspired palmtop and retro inspired smartwatch
Then someone pls hire me
Lol, just bring those into interview
EZ hire
sURely
Been considering making a portfolio site but I am catastrophically lazy about that
Oh trust me same
Im CS but i hate front end
My website consists of one html doc and a single javascript file
With a single javascript function
Literally even using a website builder, I haven't gotten very far bc I'm too lazy to compile pictures and write up information about everything. I would definitely like to do that because every employer sees that everyone has gone to school and taken the same kinds of courses
But I need to do it
I am also in my final year but I still need to do an internship
Same, at this point tho, im just swinging for whatever tf, internship, part-time, full-time, i do not care, i just needa get IN
Sorta tricky for me since I'm working full time supporting myself as an IT guy but I then have to leave my job to do an internship then either hope it continues on or that I quickly find an engineering job after that wraps bc I don't wanna do sys admin stuff anymore lol
Oof, yea thats definitwly a bit of a situation
Hopefully u can find something that transfers after internship
Yezzir same to you
And maybe after all that, we can do a full return to astro
Ive been looking into small, long F-ratio scopes for visual
Seen a guy make an F12 4.5" lol
damn
I’m getting a light leak in Starblast. I started using an imx571 sensor which is a huge burden on the GSO 2” focuser. (Even with the focuser tube only extending out about 1.25 cm.) Also I’m getting coma on the edges. I’m unsure whether to move in or out. Unsure how to workflow that to test.
Also I’m thinking of moving my focuser position to be facing “down” like how I see a lot of Newtonian astrographs. Might help with flexture? (Or is that a center of gravity thing)
This is a cropped basic Siril processed picture so the coma and vignetting aren’t showing.
All said… I’m unsure what I can do next. Or is this the end of the line for the Starblast astrograph project?
I believe the focuser facing down is just to help with balancing. I have seen some flexture in either case when I had my DSLR
Still awesome pick with the starblast
I was recommended to use Baader steel track, might be able to handle it better
to prevent lightleak, you wrap a garbage bag at the end of the tube, that might help, or wrap one around focuser too
as for coma if its not too heavy just blurx it
@patent spoke Tf they made one. https://agenaastro.com/gso-4-5in-f12-classical-cassegrain-reflector-ota.html
Classical cassegrain telescope with 4.5” aperture and focal ratio of f/12, ideal for visual observation and imaging of the Moon, planets, double stars, planetary nebulae, and other compact celestial objects
Fully and rigorously tested on site for cosmetics, mechanical operation, and optical performance by a master optician to ensure excellent ov...
4.5" F/4
I kinda love this though
it doesn't look real
a 4.5 inch f/12...
interesting
heyyyyy, this was supposed to be our thing
they're on a 1.25in focuser tho so we still gottem on being able to use a CC
wait
GSO made one
I put all that work in and now…. They have a retail version.
I'm working on a 130mm f/4 now so I hope that doesn't come along for a while
I hope it does anyways, sorry to say XD
But I think it will take at least a few years if they are thinking of it
Took me over two years to finish my 4.5" then a month later TS-Optics comes out with one. Too expensive for me though
Yeahhh, kinda funny, almost as if some people from ts are in this server looking at us 😶
I would definitely go for a 5" version though, I think it would be much better.
And I am hesitating to get that 4.5" anyways, I think a 533 would work with it....
Honestly, it really depends on that 1.25inch CC performance. It looks like its the same as the equivalent 2in version just scaled down, and i havent heard great things about the 2in from GSO. In total, with the length of the 1.25in cc and the backspacing, ur saving abt 80mm-ish on the spacing from the secondary compared to our custom 2in designs. You can get away with a much smaller secondary that way which appears to be the case with that imaging 4.5in at just 41mm secondary. The CC is rated for 23mm diag optimal which is m4/3 sized sensors so i think we'll just need to wait and see some results from these two pieces together to get a good measure on performance. Otherwise our custom starblasts might still have the edge.
I’m still getting coma on my Sharpstar with the imx571 sensor.
I thought I had my spacing correct.
Yeah, its too bad they decided to make it that way, it looses a bit of potentiel. But Im guessing they wanted to make it as cheap as possible so it would sell better.
I think custom starblasts will always have the edge anyways, since people make them to their own specifications, depending on their sensor.
If I get that scope it would mainly just be because it looks kinda funny, and Im curious about it 😅
wish I could help you more on this. I'm sure you already know at this point but you're definitely working close to the limits. The sharpstar's rating just covers up to aps-c optimaly and on a fast f4 system, let alone a very small and custom system, there's alot to deal with here. I'll say that the last image you sent there appears to be something going on as even the stars at the center look a bit wonky. Unsure if that's a focusing issue, a guiding issue, or a straight optical issue. Looks like focus to me? but you have all the images so you're judgement is likely better than mine.
Yea, i legit thought they got us on this until I noticed that it used a 1.25in focuser, looks identical to the 2in ones in the picture.
I don’t have a way to get good focus. I just look at the HFR and try to make it around 2 or as low as possible.
no mask or auto focuser or anything?
I have a mask but I didn’t see it doing any better? It’s so fine.
It does indeed, the tube is so small its hard to have a good reference x)
I was planning on making an autofocuser. But since I changed the camera I’m not noticing more problems in the system. Namely the pesky light leak.
Light leak caused by the camera? :/
same on the focuser. I was debating buying one for a while but I'm in a systems programming class currently and we have to make some hardware project and program it so this seems like the perfect opportunity to make my own autofocuser. Will fulfill the final project for the class and it'll end up being useful to me, and maybe others if I make it well enough. Already orders some parts and they're coming in today. If everything works out on the test boards and fitting, I'll probably go ahead and get soldering equipment and design and print an enclosure for everything.
maybe leverage with onstep?
I bought a small driver from PULU or whatever... and in theory it should be stepped small enough
wdym by leverage with onstep? And is the driver you're talking about the DRV8834?
Tmc2209 driver. Actually I got the bracket for the stepper from pololu
nice
nicee!
A bit jealous but I guess that also means you will be the one testing the quality of those mirrors XD
Which I expect to be about the same as skywatcher type mirrors tbh
We shall seeeeeee
I need a larger secondary though
My small big newt
Small in apperture, but long
I changed the secondary mirror. The original was 27mm and I put a 35mm one. There were missing spikes on the edges of the image.
nah
what aperture?
114mm
nice
Just realized I have not imaged at all with the star blast since the major secondary assembly overhaul and i'll reach 1 year on Nov 10 since even going out. Damn.
I finished my starblast earlier this year and haven’t produced an image with it, now I’m working on another scope
I do have 3 nights of data just haven’t stacked it
Collimation 
I use a CS mount lens on my guide camera along with this app that simulates an Ocal. A friend made it so we wouldn't have to pay 1400 (reais) for a simple ocal here in Brazil.
This is a great idea, was hoping someone would make that
130 F/4 has arrived. It has a scuffed plastic film over it but underneath it looks fine
incredible
Congratulations!
Will you build the OTA yourself?
I have a 130 f/5 OTA that's pretty similar to a 130PDS. I just need to chop it down to size
oh i see,good luck!
Where did you get the mirror btw?
Wait, I was just browsing Ali-express to look for it and look that this.https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805569758470.html?algo_pvid=59abcd08-ef5a-49ef-8e76-8ee5d1b650e8&algo_exp_id=59abcd08-ef5a-49ef-8e76-8ee5d1b650e8-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!482.92!403.98!!!3370.00!2819.14!%402101d00017279039747321005e8d57!12000034242146036!sea!US!0!ABX&curPageLogUid=KzNgtI32RC23&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A
a 150mm f/3 ?
tf
They should include Ronchi tests. It's hard to know the quality of this mirror
I'm thinking of building a 150mm f/4. An ATM who lives nearby can produce mirrors with a lambda/12 accuracy at a reasonable price. He has even made one with a lambda/20+, but at that level, the cost starts to increase significantly.
Sky-Watcher and GSO mirrors generally have a surface accuracy ranging from lambda1/8 to lambda1/10. So, a lambda1/12 mirror would indeed offer slightly better
I found it in the description.1/10 It's a pretty good mirror, it's worth the risk
i mean maybe, but why tho is my question. Like why produce this. I understand there is a market for ATM people but how many will embark on a F3 newt project. Not many CCs even correct down to F3 properly or effectively if they do. Then again, I"d be willing to accept that if manufacturing tech has advanced enough that making these isn't too much of a problem, then I can understand.
(forgot to mention making an f3 newt would not be easy)
If I’m not mistaken, the Sharpstar corrector does work for f/3. But it's indeed a challenging project. I would have the courage to do an f/4. An f/3 must be much more susceptible to any twisting in the secondary spider, OTA, or focuser. It has to be a pretty robust project.
Yea, the corrector does go down to F3, at least by Sharpstar's word. I've just never seen anyone use this corrector (let alone any other correctors really) on very fast F3 newtonians, so it's more of a can it really do it. And same on the project side. I've already built up my F4 Starblast along with many others here and it definitely brought some challenges but nothing that would stop me from doing it again. A 150mm F3 tho? That's gonna be quite challenging.
Does there even exist any F3 newtonians at this size? I know some exist at large scales like upwards of 14" and there's there's the Sharpstars but those are hyperbolic mirrors.
Epsilons...
Are those parabolic?
Probably they are also hyperbolic. Now I really don’t remember a known f3 parabolic
Ayo what lol
mainly because of the corrector configuration
Also 130 f/4 was bought from eBay but it’s also sold on aliexpress. Same manufacturers as the other mirrors that have a triangular central dot thing
From what is seems. Parabolic mirrors need at least a 3-element correcter with a significant amount of spacing for correct configuration, with most being around the 70mm in length mark. With a hyperbolic mirror on the other hand, they appear to only need a 2-element corrector and they're very close together, practically sandwiched, and Sharpstar even shows it with the diagrams. My guess is that its easier to develop a hyperbolic newtonian with a 2-element corrector then develop a parabolic newtonians where the user needs to go find a CC which would even work that fast. The backspacing requirements of the 2-element corrector also means the entire imaging train can be much closer to the tube and they can minimize secondary size, which is already quite large on these hyperbolic newts. I can't imagine how large of a secondary you'll need for a F3 parabolic newt and the backspacing requirements of that thing with currect CCs.
Looks decent, and delivery was rather fast no?
Ahhh, you got it from ebay interesting
I guess I’m at a crossroads after spending a week in B1 with the Starblast. I’m getting some image tilt most likely in the image train/focuser. collimation seems off everytime I move to a new target. The light leak is there but fortunately I don’t think it hurt too much in B1 skies. I’m currently using a GSO focuser. Someone suggested I switch to the Baader rail one and I also a cyck that looked quite affordable. I’m wondering if it’s worth it to drop more money. Or start in earnest on a new Newtonian astrograph build out. Maybe a bit larger.
Is 130pds small
If any of you are selling small newt for ap please contact me
I recently bought a celestron 130EQ as an upgrade to my celestron 70 travel scope and I just use my Sony 6400 and a lens projection adapter but I do want to get a star tracker mount soon! Any suggestions for a good one?
I’m eyeing the CYCK focuser for the Starblast (and maybe future builds). It seems like an inexpensive yet feature rich focuser. It may solve my issues for sensor tilt, light leakage, and most importantly, the ability to add an EAF. My current GSO doesn’t quite work for that without with some heavy tinkering. Has anyone had any experience with it?
I don't have any experience with it but Cuiv chose it for his quattro https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=7YEmYG6SJPw
My Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/cuivlazygeek
Focuser: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DeCRP0v
Amazon affiliate: https://amzn.to/3hTB5Ne
Agena affiliate: https://bit.ly/3Om0hNG
High Point Scientific affiliate: https://bit.ly/3lReu8R
All-Star Telescope affiliate: http://bit.ly/3SCgVbV
Astroshop.eu Affiliate: http://tinyurl.com/2vafkax8
Dw...
Yeah I saw that and another guy’s install. Seems really promising. Wondering what kind of tooling I’ll need to make it fit in the bracket.
Might be a little heavy for it?
Orion observer is like 5 pounds and my camera is like 2
And even if it doesn't work I can just get a small refractor
I thought the SWSA wasn't any good for anything beyond a standard DSLR setup.
Apparently they can hold up to 11 pounds but if it can't then I'll just go ahead and get a small refractor
Short focal length, so it shouldn't have problems
I had to modify mine entirely to get decent guiding. I added more than 20 bearings
He’s talking about putting his on an SWSA.
Going to try out the CYCK. Had to 3d print a new mounting bracket. The sides have to extend out because the spider is in the way.
Pretty nice it supports rotator and also got the combo with an EAF
Been a while but, first functioning prototype of my autofocuser, very much a mvp sorta deal. Its able to communicate with software through ascom and has a driver installer, all of which again is extremely minimum in terms of implementation. The whole mounting and build of the thing was semi rushed, especially with the wires sticking out but it's enough for now. Will hopefully field test it tonight.
Hooray
Can confirm, the autofocuser worked, it successfully pulled of the autofocusing routine in NINA after a couple of settings tweaks
Nice. I’m happy to report my CYCK + auto focuser also works.
sick
Though I my corner stars aren’t too much better.
op rip
I think it might be the coma corrector since it’s also vignetting but should support aps-c sensor.
you still using that sharpstar?
Yeah
mmm ok. then yea it might just be the CC
i knew their claim of aps-c was a bit of a stretch but i don't plan on moving to that size any time soon which is why i got it
Gotcha. What’s the next step up? Nexus?
lol nexus would be insane on a starblast but that would be even worse to manage purely from a management stand point. The quality is likely there but dealing with a 0.75x reduction at f4 is insane
your next step up would probably be a 4-element corrector instead of a 3 like the sharpstar. Most common upgrade would probably be something like the sky-watcher quattro
Yeah but I’d still have coma issues no?
I mean maybe not? You'll very likely have better correction towards the outer field with something like the quattro as it's arguably a better corrector than the sharpstar. And at the very least it would help eliminate the possibility of it being a CC quality issue.

Hey, do any of you use secondary mirror dew heaters? I want to send my scope to a remote observatory, but I'd rather not have a lengthy dew shield increasing the swing diameter
i'm using a carbonstar 150 6" newt, this was my first run with it last night
Which mount should I get for 130pds
Heq5 or eq6r pro
Dont get the eqm35 pro bcs of large backlash
Any budget alternative
Whats ur budget
Get the eq5 or exos-2 and do an onstep mod since onstep is not really expensive it will just take time
It's not a newt but with my current 50mm 700fl telescope diy on a tripod
Nice, you will get surprised with the 130PDS
A few of my images with the 130ODS
I like it
I don't know how I got this much details
Really good
I like the colours and process on the orion
Idk, maybe try taking a video instead of a still and stack and sharopen the video
I can get sharper and better but thats the most i can get out of my asi224mc
Or should I save and get the JUWEI-14 from AliExpress
As i could only buy telescope and cam via my uncle in uk
He cannot bring the mount as it's heavy
Oh i saw it on youtube, its good with guiding but without guiding it wont be as good
So is it better than buying and onsteping eq5
Onstep the eq5
Ok
I haven't seen much reviews on JUWEI-14
It's like an am3
I have an doubt
If i mod a dslr
Can I use it normal with a clip in ir cut filter
I dont know much about dslr
Seen some reviews on the 17 version of this, interested to see where this series of mounts go
I come in here every once in a while and see these dope mini newt rigs you guys are building but no completed images with them

I've been eagerly waiting to see the potential of these mini newts, as I gave up on the shit one I had early on.
I've seen some subs from sym but that's it 
LOL, real and true. For me its just been a prio thing, been too occupied with school and now trying to get a job since ill be graduating soon. But Ill see if i can get an image out this december now that my rig is now fully automated.
I looked back and saw a short Integration you send of some small galaxies, quite nice honestly.
I keep forgetting how well those starblasts can perform
The potential feels there but i'll have to see. The last real image I took with the starblast before a lot of major modifications regarding the secondary assembly was this one of m33 over a literal year ago.
Yea and with mono it could be an even better performer
i really wanna move to mono, you still using the 1600?
I am
Saw one on CN for 450 USD 
Nutty value
I will say, the 294mm has a bit better specs.
And can be used in bin 1 48mp mode
And it's very close in price
exactly, i've been seeing a bit more than usual pop up on CN in that 400-500 range which is crazy, some even inlcude lrgb filters for that price. Found someone presumably within 2h of me selling on for 400.
Dayum
im guessing it still serves you well considering you still go it?
Oh yes, I'll be sticking with it for a while longer. My mount is the weak point rn as I've upgraded to a triplet frac. The cam is technically limiting my frac but under dark skies it has a ton of potential.
The main issue I have with it, is that I can't get it flats to calibrate out 100% correctly. It's always got some sort of under correction around the corners. Overcorrection actually happens with B filter. But all that said, it's likely my cheap ass ZWO filters lol.
Well the images look incredible, especially the horse head, its so clean. The 1600 may very well be my next cam since it can still very well produce great images as you've demonstrated.
I feel you on the mount point though. My current mount which is the CGEM very much under performs, even on the light but still somewhat heavy starblast rig. It sits around 1.0 - 1.5 rms depending on where i'm pointed in the sky which given my setup with the 585, puts it right on my pixel scale of 1.4.
@patent spoke Hows that little harmonic star tracker going btw?
Not bad so far from a concept phase, I started as the person doing the housing design but a teammate took over. It's currently modeled for vixen interfaces but we're switching to acra swiss soon
oooo very nice. By the looks of it it seems like you're going for a modular design? Both the RA and DEC axis look identical in terms on construction. Perhaps something that can switch between being 2 simple star trackers to 1 fully functioning goto mount?
Yea that's the idea!
Saves on design time for us and it means someone can start with a single axis then build the second one, or separate them to create two trackers
I originally envisioned that each axis would have an identical onstep control system but one could be switched to "secondary" mode which would bypass all the onstep stuff and provide a direct line from the motor of DEC to the controll on RA
Instead we're just going with an external control box
makes sense, simplifies design and cheapens overall cost. haven't seen anything like this in the space yet so hopefully everything works out. If the final build provides good performance along with a simple and relatively cheap construction, this could really take off
Each axis is around the size of a soda can and when broken down it'll just just about anywhere. We are hoping for 6kg just to outclass the regular star trackers but we're not sure how it'll perform mechanically yet. The structural analsys and gearbox ratings seems to agree with our figure though
Alr alr, well keep us posted on any devs cuz i think people will like this
Gladly. If it goes well the designs will probably be published for free
I want money but I’d rather people just make it if they want it
Sick
@patent spoke i really wanna build one
How much can it cost
Not too sure yet since our pricing is based off of approved vendors via the university, but I know it can be made much cheaper by an individual. I think somewhere between $500-600 for the full 2-axis system is our current projection
If we don't do some process plan for its manufacture in the project, I will do it independently
I have always wanted something like this to be available to people on a budget so I really hope it works
Yep same, I have one tomorrow lol
Me too
WHAT
man
I already have a 76mm parabolic but this is cool. Way too expensive for me though
oh yeaaaa, i forgot you had that 76
The cube scope might be used in our presentation for the mount just to act as a payload
lol nice
Hi to everyone, this is the first vide of a series about my DIY harmonic mount, here In this video, I cover:
✅ The redesigned, all-in-one enclosure
✅ How OnStep makes DIY mounts powerful and accessible
✅ The pros & cons of the V2 design (with real test results!)
✅ A detailed breakdown of the build process and costs
Link to pcbway:
https://...
@patent spoke
Wow that's a nice design
Definitely cheaper than what we have planned since we want to use the really tiny pancake units
I bet the newt has a good personality
It's already done so we have an outline
It's cheaper
We just need a wedge
It's 400bucks
My wallet will be happier
After we I get the setup ready I am thinking of getting gravitational lensing with a lot of exposure time and lucky imaging
Anybody wanna join
It's gonna be hard
I really love the idea of this thing turning into 2 separate trackers, this project is amazing!
What scope do u have?
130pds it's not gonna have details but if we can get something it's really good
No details you say?
Orion Trapezium
🔭 Telescope: Toya 114/900mm, EQ3 modified with OnStep
📷 : Sv905c
⚙️ Subframes of 0.5 seconds, Gain 300. About 2000
📍 : São Paulo City, Bortle 9
This reminded me of my pic with a similar scope (114/ 900)
Taken with a webcam untracked 5mins tentegraation time
Nice
Why’s that so sharp!?
@past kite bro which cam do you use
Asi224mc
Nice
I am thinking of getting the svbony sv205 or 305
I have dslr
But it's damaged
Gota repair it
Lucky image...
Go for the 305. The 205 has very small pixels due to its 8MP, and the light sensitivity is terrible.
Ok
Soon to have sbig 8300m
Thx
Nice
yeah i don't understand how you do that lol
wish I could do lucky imaging
would kill my dslr though
@patent spoke realized i never asked but, what r u studying? Ill tell u im comp sci hence by background in mainly programming
MechE
Ah ok, makes sense makes sense
I am still in school
Guys I am thinking of floking the inside after I get the scope it already has mirror mask should I 3d print a secondary
Or keep it original
You mean a secondary holder?
also what scope?
I wouldn't recommend 3d printing a new one, the original one should be just fine. A plastic one would be more prone to flexing and eventually even breaking due to creep (this depends on the material used of course, but its quite common on some materials), which could be catastrophic with a secondary mirror holder.
Flocking the inside of the tube is a good idea though, helps with those scopes
Or should I get cnc one
Why do you want to replace it?
YouTubers say it stays colimated for longer
Is that true
I actually like the spikes from the og one
Like the original one flexes more
I mean, yeah, depends what you use aswell. I guess they are meaning a spider/secondary mirror holder
But you have a 130pds
the spider on that will remain collimated much easier than bigger scopes, I dont think it is worth it to change it, your collimation should stay good for long enough
In any case I reccomend doing a star check every night when you use a newt
Ahh ok
I had a 150P, and even with the bigger spider the collimation stayed fine for a while
Which colimation tool is the best
Your secondary mirror is also smaller so there is much less forces involved anyways
True
Cheshire imo, gets it 95% of the way there, then you attach your imaging train, and do star collimation for the last 5%
Now you are confusing me....you sent 5 messages saying different things
Cheshire gets your secondary mirror in the right place, and the primary mostly good, then you do a star collimation to get the primary good. Ill send a link for the star collimation
I meant I know how to use cheshire
But I don't know star collimation
I looked it up.on youtube
I got it
Ok
The 130 PDS has a kit with a CNC secondary support. I would go for it. 3D doesn't give me much confidence in the secondary collimation.
It's more expensive than the scope
I would need it bcs my secondary holders are not parallel to eachother making my stars less sharp
Which cam i better for 130pds 294mc uncooled for 250 or 5d mk 2 for the same
Guys what do you say
If those are the two options, then i'd argue 294mc purely from the camera stand point. Newer sensor and much easier to work with than the bulky body and full frame sensor of the 5d mark 2.
would give you an easier time on the 130pds too.
Get a dedicated astro cam to get the most sharpness out of ur scope, my friend uses the 585 cooled with his 150PDS and works perfectly fine
My brother told he will give his 5d mk2
@past kite
Will it work in daylight after modification of I put the right wavelength ir cut filter
Probably wont
There are specific filter made by some astronomy filter producers for this
I know
not an eq6r pro for a 130 pds😭
gives room for upgrades
y did you react to your own comment lol
cuz i can

Trust me, it gonna do good
it needs an eq8 at least smh
Nice, im using the eqm35 pro, the best result with guiding i had was 0.28 total rms
I also used a EQ5 Pro goto, had pretty similar results I guess
Single 60 sec sub with grax, blurx and noisex
Was testing out my new player one ares c pro😃
Only the color looks off when I stack in pix. Im getting the normal pink/red when I stack in dss
Why is the color different in pix?
I have no clue 🥲
Huh, try researching a bit to find out, but good news. My SBIG STF 8300M came today
Cant wait for clear skies
Yeah tried finding out what it is. But got pix like a month ago so still figuring everything out
what's up with ur details
Never heard of that camera haha . Looks promising though
What are u referring to?
well your details are a little blurry considering your circumstances
Is that so? Thought it was pretty good for a single shot haha. Was kind of cloudy so maybe that caused some blurry ness
I suppose yes perhaps all the denoising aswell because it is a single sub
do you have a coma corrector on? I like your stars
Yes, baadr mpcc III. In the raw files there is a small tilt but the stacking and blurx fixes that
tilt as in sensor tilt?
Nah I think it's in the focuser. Not sure
My future rig is 130pds 5dmk2 eq5 onstep and guiding rig
Ye its a 13 year old mono camera but its still good
Cool! Why buy this camera and not a newer model?
I saw one for 500 with lrgb and ha
@past kite
Nahh, actually my friend gave it to me for free with lrgb and h alpha filters
Is it from ebay? I think i saw that one
Currently working on my 76mm F11 project for visual lol
Yes i think so
Nice
I think that is what most everyone here agreed on
o ok
It's pretty small so yea
i dont have a tracking mount yet
so
my images are not going to be the best
ill have to do loads of short exposures or something
Yea id get tracking asap
im trying 🙏
It will be a pain otherwise
(i dont have a job yet)
Rip
whats a good cheap mount that can move more than 9kg of weight
by cheap i mean
like
£300 to £500
Or eq3 with onstep kit upgrade, which similar to what I have now.
second hand eqm 35, or eq-5pro
i have the eq3 mount
or eq3 indeed
Oh dam, yea grab an onstep kit
okii
What scope are you planning on using though?
SPECIFICATIONS Automatic nightscape tracking platform: Motorized tracking platform perfect for capturing incredible detail of the Milky Way, eclipses and other astronomical objects. Automatically locates and tracks objects for you. Tracking Rates Sidereal, Solar and Lunar. Double motor drive provides regulated sidereal
i already have the scope
the weight isnt the main concern, focal length, or rather the resolution of the scope can change the choice
Yes but which
When my mount was properly tuned, with this kit I was guiding consistently around 0.7 total rms.
With bad seeing you may see 1"
Sky-Watcher Explorer 150P
:/
That will struggle a bit, its quite a big scope, even for an eq-5
Since you already have the eq3, this is by far the best value.
nice
I might work, but you might have a lot of struggles
May need an extra counterweight
True, best value, and to start off it can be good...I would reccomend getting a smaller scope though
That newt has a ton of potential
And he will be eventually be moving to a bigger mount anyway
seems well balanced
ill figure something out
The newt has potential yes, just that the mount will slowly die with that kind of payload...I know because I had both an eq3-2, and a eq-5 pro, both were struggling with a 150P
Different electronics and steppers tho tbf
yea
Yes, but I mean the mount itself, the counterweight bar was getting slightly bent over the 2 years I had it, and the worm wheels were showing signs of wear
Just saying...its my opinion, do with it what you want :)
I had bad experiences with those mounts and such a big payload, and most people who had the same also said it was overloaded, with an eq-5
2 years
Yeah, when you have enough weight, and when you have crap metals like skywatcher uses, it bends
im probably only going to be using it like a year and a bit
Thats fine, just warning you
okii
thx for the warning
tbf
i may actually just use it until it doesn't work anymore
for the tomfoolery
is onstep better than synscan
(im a wee bit braindead)
Yep, mostly because it's wayy cheaper.
Performance wise they may be similar but I'm not sure.
okii :3
It’s also better. The motors are stronger, quieter, and there are no gears to transfer the movement from the motors to the worm gear—just pulleys. Plus, you can use a 400-step motor, which will provide even greater precision
I'm building a DIY Onstep for my Exos 2. It will have a built-in eletronic focuser in its code
That's dope
pretty sure it is better since its belt driven, basically a free rowan belt mod
Yea the belt driven aspect of onstep is definitely better
I think my worm gear has some grit or something left from old lubricant.
And backlash changes drastically from summer to winter temps.
Will be glad to get rid of this LXD75, the onstep was great but the mount gotta go.
yeah that is a good point, my eq-5 changes drastically between winter and summer aswell x)
I got a old ioptron ieq 30 pro recently, Im hoping the electronics work well still and I can make it work without the hand controller, otherwise I might try to somehow make it be onstep
Should I get it
Of dslr
I've tried to take photos of orion
wish me luck 😭
I can't wait to get tracking
ong
this is final image :3
What software do you use?
