#The AZ GTI Forum
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Nice! A good time to make a purchase too!
note sure what to get. They're all very expensive
I have been thinking about dipping into planetary tbh
If I can get a decent mak and stick it to my rig, I can just choose to have planetary or deep sky nights
Just switching the cameras up
btw, this EXOS2 with onstep is working well. I'm getting .80" reliably all the time
Yeah they are ๐
Nice! I bet it's a lump compared to the az-gti. I do miss the GTi for that reason ๐
yes. I have to remove the weight & camera before I move the mount. It's now a 3 step process rather than 1 ๐
I still have the az-gti though. Not got rid of it. I'll eventually have the choice of 2 setups
Yeah that's a good idea! I wish I had afforded to keep the azgti tbh. Having two setups is really ideal when clouds are tied to the UK skies ๐
So much for clear skies ๐ญ
it's crystal clear now, but in 30mins I'll get blanket cloud
however tommorrow night and sunday night will be clear for me
Clear for me now! Time to setup!
yeh I'm just waiting for a bit more dark
What's your target tonight?
I've gone for something a bit different. Ngc7822
Started imaging now because I'm impatient af ๐ guiding is at a stable 0.50!!
Kinda helps that I'm very close to Polaris ๐ guiding is at 0.38
did you see that Nebula Photos video about Polaris?
I haven't, is it about the IFN around it?
It's a great idea for a remote astro image night. When I go camping next, I will bring my telescope and tripod and give it a go
yeh
Still early days and need to figure out the reason for the halos. But here is 2 hours data on ngc7822 so far
looking good so far
Anyone imaging tonight?
Finally yes, adding some time to the elephant trunk
Not that I couldn't image in the recent days, I had no time
I'm imaging too. Another late one. 3 nights in a row ๐ฎ
Nice! Yeah I missed last night as I was knackered ๐ seems to be a bit of high cloud my way at the moment but guiding is at 0.35 so can't be doing too bad.
I made a big mistake last night. paused the imaging to go refocus the guide camera, then got the guiding working great, then took me an hour to realize I didn't restart the imaging camera ๐ฎ
Just guiding for no reason ๐ oops!
yeh but it was perfect guiding
Ahhh who needs a final image if you guide graphs are perfect!
Yeah I'm seeing some thin high cloud through the guide camera and it's shot up to 1.2 and losing the star. hoping it'll pass
1.2 isn't bad at our focal length
I'm getting some hazy subs though probs don't help that's it not fully dark yet
My target is annoyingly on the Heathrow flight path which may be the cause
I'm on the Gatwick and London City flight path. I get a ton of planes
To be fair I'm quite lucky in Newbury. It's very rare to get anything overhead. Just occasionally a Heathrow one to the north of the skies
I'm not going to go ham on this target though. This will probably be my last night on it and then I'm going to move onto something else
I haven't shot the north America nebula in a long time. I think the last time was when I was using the celetron travel scope and a canon 450d
Might give that a go
that's a nice bright target
my guiding not great tonight. I'm about 1.20" but it's good enough for 1.95 HFR which is about as good as I get, ever
that's on 5min exposures
I'm spoilt with the focuser
How's it going now?
On and off tbh ๐ managed to get about 25 mins in and then the cloud layer came back across the northern part of the sky. I used that opportunity to refocus and I'm back to imaging again. Not sure how much of the data is going to be salvageable to be honest!
Has it been pretty clear for you?
yeh it's clear but not sure seeing is great
guiding isn't great but the subs are ok I think
Yeah I agree on the seeing. it's cleared up a lot for me now though
If I can get at least another 30 mins of data I'll be happy
I just noticed that "multistar" was turned off in PHD2. Not sure when that happened but I've been 1-star guiding for a while
I always had to one star guide when I was using apt to be fair, it was horrendous. But a lot better with multi star!
Do you ever use the warming feature in Nina or do you just gradually creep up the temp of you sensory before bringing it in?
I just shut the pc down tbh
i either pull shut the mini pc off or my sequence ends and it parks and warms my camera
have no clue what it does tho icl
just reduce cooler power?
Wow you guys are brave haha
I usually change the cooling target from -10 to 0 and then switch off ๐
i donโt rlly see the problem with it, the warning feature does the same thing as if i pulled the cable out of my camera
(which i have done)
i donโt actually have a az gti im just here cause why not
Some people have experienced damaged sensors from huge temperature fluctuations.
Anyway.. That's a wrap for me. Total 4 hours on ngc7822 is good enough for me. Time for bed ๐ด
gn, didnโt know about that temp flux, iโll be more careful then.
Not sure whether to gamble on tonight ๐ค
I've had 3 nights in a row @ 3am and it's forecast for spotty cloud tonight, so I'm having a beer
next outing will be back on the az-gti. I want to dial it in before Wales B1
Nice, when do you go out again? Fingers crossed the weather is on your side
Hopefully not!
Well for 4 hours of data, I'm quite happy with that ๐๐ผ
it's looking good!
I couldn't get my Sadr mosaic looking good yet (mosaicing artifacts) but here's pane 3. It's such a pretty area of the sky
Beautiful!
Just come back from the Royal Opera House. Went to see Brian Cox and Daniel Harding: Symphonic Horizons. Was fantastic!
yeh but I've got to get MUCH more data. I stretched that one way too far
I cant wait until full darkness comes in lithuania so i can start imaging!!
I finally sussed how to do mosaic without any major artifacts using Siril (with a bit of help from MS ICE). I'm not too happy with the way I processed this so I shared my data for others to try.
My old 30 min test on the elephant trunk nebual in bortle 3-2. with stock sony a-6000 and roki 135mm f2.8. and az gti what do you think?
nice!
thanks
Dispite it being a bit windy out there, I am getting some clean NGC7000 data!
yeh. I should have removed it from the O3 data before I started. Perhaps I'll start again one day
Nice! I'm trying Iris Nebula. It's going to be BAD from my area but I want something to compare against when I go to Wales (assuming it's not cloudy for a week!)
Yeah would be good to get a comparison
Clouds have just started rolling over for me ๐
Looks like it may be temp though!
grrr I just did an hour without turning the cooling on. I was wondering why I was getting so many hot pixels
Still cloudy for me. Going to use this time to take some fresh Darks
Hopefully it will clear in the next 30 mins
Touptek might finally have fixed HDR mode on my camera ๐ฎ
Awesome! You have been waiting a while for that!
excuse the hot pixels. Did a quick stack of just the 25 min of data whilst I was waiting for clouds. Wow theres a lot of detail in this target!
Clouds have gone! lets go!
it's looking real good
I look at posts like this on Cloudy Nights and it makes me wonder why I bother ๐ฎ https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/932528-pickerings-triangle/#entry13616016
this HDR mode is letting me get 5min exposures on Andromeda with good stats
ignore the HFR history graph. that was for a different target
Nice, would the core not be blow out still?
a little
Be interesting to see a processed version of it. I have always found the core of m31 tedius
I'm knackered, think I will pack up for the night. Got a good 1.5 hours of data
Meh, well perhaps my exposures were a little long. However, it's proven that HDR mode is now working. My flats, darks & biases applied ok which they didn't before, and the stretching went ok. If I'd want to get a LOT more data if I wanted to make a good job of this target but I don't, so I wont. As a test, it's done the job.
I got 2hrs on Iris, one hour I forgot to turn on my cooler so it's noisy as hell. But, I've got just enough to show me that it might not be a complete dead loss from my b6/7 sky and perhaps worth pursuing. I'll discard the duff data and put another 3-4hrs on it and see where I go from there
The other detail is nice though. I think m31 deffo requires some masking and blending when it comes to the core
Yeah I think with enough decent data you could get a good result! Would be interesting to see the comparison hopefully if you get good skies at the end of the month
So Ngc7000 is a very pleasing area of sky! The detail for 1 hour and 15 mins of data is insane
Yeh, it's worth spending some serious time on. I've worked out that I generally need ~10hrs for mine to look good
super guiding tonight!
gonna image elephent trunk nebula with my roki 135 and sony a-6000 tonight
And this is what almost 6hrs gives me. I'd want that same amount again to get rid of more noise
That's a huge difference!
Yes, and I can barely see anything on the live stack. It's not until I get it in Siril that those dust clouds start to come out
I could only get 1 hr 20 min of integration time on elephant trunk nebula, in bortle 2 but its ok im going to get more integration time. i made i quick proceses with siril and gimp and it looks okay for that much integration. im gonna try this night to get more.
i cropped weirdly but its ok
Thee beautiful Andromeda Galaxy.
49 x 120 (1.63 Hour's). 30xFlat's & Dark Flat's.
Stacked with Astap.
โ
72ed
โ
Zwo 585mc
โ
Svbony ir/UV Cut
โ
Phd2
โ
Nina
โ
GraXpert
โ
Siril
โ
Astrosharp
โ
LR
nice, but where's the stars?
Very happy with my 3.5 hour result on ngc7000!
I may move on to giving the Andromeda galaxy ago again this year!
nice work!
Very nice. Love the framing too.
Thanks. I was debating if to keep the stars. My HFR wasn't good so starnett didn't do a perfect job. Maybe I'll add and see what I can do with them.
Can always do the same framing and do some exposures to get stars and star colors then remove the original and add the new stars in after you align the star images to match
I still have the star's. I'll post a reply with the and you can see what you think. ๐
You can do blind dither in nina but the camera has to be connected and in a sequence
and if you use EQMOD or Green Swamp Server you can get NINA to trigger the camera via the snap port. I don't know if you can also do that with Synscan driver
documented here https://nighttime-imaging.eu/docs/master/site/advanced/bulbshutter/ . GSS also support snap but has different commands to EQMOD https://greenswamp.org/?docs=gs-server-overview/snap-tab
By connected I mean in a way that nina can download images
I've never used the sharpcap sequencer but I'd expect it to have the same issue
The way I'd do it is to get an EQMod cable to connect my computer to the az-gti (rather than wifi), then use EQMod ASCOM driver or preferably Green Swamp Server ASCOM driver instead of the Synscan driver. I'd then configure NINA to send the correct command to EQMod or GSS to trigger the camera that's connected to the snap port. I'd also install the Direct Guider in NINA so I can do blind dither after each shot
perfect.
ah thanks. i didnt know that. will do that in future
Nice sub)
na but fr nice detail
ok I'm done with this from my b6/7 area.
that's really good for the bortle level
hmm I say "done" but I never truly am ๐
I made this recently & gave it first light last night. It worked perfectly! It's a MyDewcontrollerPro3
oh that's pretty cool, fully diy?
yes. Wasn't too hard to do either
nice
What it does? Automatic heater with humidity temp sensor or what?
yeh, it has a humidity and temperature sensor for ambient and a temperature sensor for each scope. It then works out the dew point & keeps the scopes 3deg above dew point
runs on an arduino & you can connect to it via bluetooth. You can either run the app or use an ASCOM driver to show stats in NINA
Ok give me a min Iโm starting my computer up
thanks 
Ok Iโm downloading it now, will do blurX do you need anything else while I have it
I have also both starX and noisex
Oh wow I love that
nice, do you have some extarnal bt module? Cant see it. I prefer esp32 modules already with buildin wifi or bt
yeh the bt module is the blue module to the right of the arduino. And yes, there's a variant of this with ESP32. Perhaps I should have used that instead
does anyone happen to have the length of the threaded clutch shaft thingy? ive managed to get a 3x35 cap head in for now but would like something more proper
anyone imaging tonight?
I'm trying an odd target - NGC 6914
never done that one before. It's both an emission and a reflection nebula
that one looks sick, I don't think I can shoot it from b8 tho
I'm debating if I want to keep adding time to M33, it looks great already at 6.5h
I could add some Ha considering how much moon we'll get in a couple of days
it looks great as-is to be honest
This is first night's data. I need to do one more evening on narrowband, then I need to do 1 or 2 more evenings on broadband on a dark night to get that reflection nebula part
Looking good so far
yeh, good progress so far. I think this HDR mode on my Touptek is finally working ok
I had a lot of haze last night due to the winds blowing from north America. It almost looked cloudy. That with the moon made it impossible to get good subs so I bailed and got no imaging done ๐
I may seek out M31 again next, have not shot it with the Uranus C Pro and looking to add some Ha data in it too
yeh, I experienced that too. my subs were disappointing. However, i got so many of them that I got some usable data in the end
For example this is a 10min sub!!
Looking clear tonight. Hoping to take some Ha of M31. what methods do people use to align Ha to RGB?
I think I was out the same night. Really bad conditions. Almost like thin orange haze.
I set up anyway and decided to wait.
I took the opportunity to test some thing's out and stayed up until 02:00.
After some tweaking and care I Got the best guiding I've ever had and shot 60x60 then flat's and dark flats the next day.
Happy with this.
Don't think I'll be adding to it as open clusters isn't something what I'm into.
585mc, 72ed, phd2. Nina and Astap for stacking.
Is it viable to use the az gti with synscan pro app, D3100 and an intervalometer without nina?
I'm stuck with this camera for the foreseeable
wow nice!
with a polar wedge or alt/az?
Cheers
now keep that up all evening, especially at zenith ๐
I'm thinking of setting up and giving the Bubble another go.
Only myself stopping me, tiered.
It's looking good for the seeing tonight.
I learnt long ago, don't let tiredness or apathy cheat you out of a decent sky. You'll regret it when you don't get another for a month
That's true.
I have nothing for the next week.
wedge should be here by the weekend
the wedge will let you get longer exposures but it will be tricky to align without an astro cam & software like NINA
ill need to sell this camera before buying whatever the canon equivalent is for ยฃ100-150 i guess
I'm imaging M31 in Ha tonight. Hoping I will successfully merge it with an RGB image ๐
All setup ams struggling with moon light. Doh
Yeah it's pretty bright tonight! Thankfully I have gone Ha so it shouldn't affect me too much
yeh I'm doing 7nm narrowband so it doesn't affect me much
I think the L-enhance does about 10nm. I'm tempted to through some Oii in my overall image. Let's see if I can succeed with the Ha composition first perhaps ๐
I'm trying a different approach tonight - many 60sec subs instead of my usual 5 or 10min subs. I will get a slightly less SNR overall but much more dithering which will let me do a proper 2x drizzle
I might switch back to my usual approach for the final 2hrs so I can compare the results
Ok.. So because of the moon harsh light I've decided to give the ir720 filter a bash with 300's.
Nothing serious.. Just playing around tonight.
Are you still shooting ngc6914?
yes
it will take me at least one more night because I have to get broadband, and too much moon for that now
And clouds have arrived! 2 hours of data in Ha, I'm happy with that.
I'll be good for another few hours apparently
The emission nebula part is looking good now. I just need to get broadband for those 2 reflection nebulas
Anyone have experience with the ali express star watcher az gti tripod?
which one is it?
it's just a normal skywatcher tripod, it's good
price is good too, 70-ish with shipping is cheaper than locally
How do you get so much blue at m33? I made photometric color calibration at siril and i get colors like this
pixinsight ๐คทโโ๏ธ
my color calibration in siril also sucked
checking it again it's actually very similar
similar to mine? so you stretched blue channel separately?
yeah no, I checked the stack again and the colors were closer to blue
let me grab as screenshot
this is stacked in siril and calibrated with spcc
ok, thx
SPCC in Siril 1.3 dev is a game changer. That'll get the colors bang on. Send me your stacked sub and I'll do it for you
294
One is Graxperted, one isn't https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-mcu-KbSmPde0sr6u4ymdHcSAwn6OSym?usp=sharing
this is ASIFitsView autostretch on the Graxperted one
thx, qick process give me this. I stretched blue and it looks easier to get blue colors out of your version
@modest nebula can you give me link to 1.3? Can't find
1.3 is not released. You have to build it yourself. It's not as tricky as it seems provided you follow this EXACTLY https://siril.readthedocs.io/en/latest/installation/windows.html#building-on-windows-with-msys2
thx
I just wrote a new filter for Siril
sick, is it done with c?
yeh
that green box is an ROI - a feature of Siril I never even knew about
you can make a selection, convert it to an ROI, so filter previews only work in that small area. Once you hit "apply" it will apply to the whole image
nice. I hate c))
it's not the most user-friendly
takes me 10x longer with c
although tbh, some of it is learning to navigate Siril source code
you have to modify like 10 files just to get a dialog box ๐ฎ
Clear skies tonight! Hoping to get some broadband data on M31
@modest nebula Do you have any experience with narrowband spcc? Does it work well with sv220?
yes, works well
what do you put at Green Bandwะฒith? same as Blue?
the dev build is generally ok but is by definition not stable
you could use it for SPCC & then go back to 1.2 for other stuff
Still very early days. Only an hour of RGB data and still figuring out how to put the Ha in ๐
Looking real nice. Btw did you ever get that new scope you were talking about?
Nope.. the Mrs intervened and insisted the money went towards the wedding next year ๐๐คฃ๐ญ
Gosh women can be so unreasonable
My bonus changed this year from quarterly to yearly so I'm going to have a ton of cash in March that I don't know what to do with. I dislike star spikes so I guess it's going to be an overpriced refractor
Buy me and you a telescope ๐
What refractors you been eyeing up? Askar?
yeh mostly
problem is, they all come in around 3x the price of a newt once you get a reducer for it too
I really dislike star spikes though
Yeah is it worth it though ๐ or maybe Schmidt Cass?
When will they start building flatteners in like Redcar does
this is tempting until you realize it's f6 https://www.firstlightoptics.com/askar-telescopes/askar-71f-flat-field-apo-refractor.html and they don't sell a reducer for it yet
We want f as low as possible?
What impact does lower/higher f have
F/6 isn't horrendous though, we are shooting at F/5 with the 50ED. I'm not sure if the mathematical light gathering difference but I don't think you would notice too much
ChatGPT says "This means that the f/6 astrograph requires 1.5625 times the exposure time of the f/4.8 astrograph."
so, f6 would take 50% more time than our Evoguide
Oh wait,who needs math when you have AI ๐
so really, an Askar or similar with reducer comes in around ยฃ1k-ยฃ1.2k
So every 3 f6 photos equals 2 F5 photos?
It's probs not that simple ๐
but I've not spent any money on my MG this year, so perhaps I can justify the extravagance
Yeah that's nuts... You would certainly see image quality difference with a quad though
Well considering our scope is not even meant for main imaging ๐
It means if I want to get 10hrs on a target, I need to get almost 16 instead
The extra 6 hours for decent image quality is probably a reasonable sacrifice
Aren't hight F stop scopes more likley to stay in focus or have I made that up?
I suppose having an auto focuserit wouldnt matter anyway
You would need to remake one though ๐
I'm probably looking at at least a year before I can think about a new scope, meaning I miss next galaxy season again ๐ maybe I'll get lucky ๐ธ
the Onstep controller I bought for the the EQ5 has a focuser built in. I just need to add a stepper motor & a belt drive. That Gemini focuser is only like ยฃ70 anyway as an alternative
Eq wedge is here finally
i have a usb cable for the az gti also now.
i can connect to the mount via synscan app using wifi and cable after downloading the serial drivers.
i can only seem to connect to the mount with nina via wifi
use gss to connect to it with the cable and see if it works better
Will that still allow use with nina?
OK I can connect with the cable using gss
Ahh I got it connected to nina via gs drivers
you're using an azgti right? there are a couple of things to change in gss for it
yea. im going to look for a youtube guide
Cuiv has a full setup guide for the azgti, I followed that for mine when I had it
Perfect. Thank you
I use a swsa gti not the AZ but I have a problem where my RA is pretty stiff so it is hard for me to balance my mount. is it normal for the ra to be stiff or not?
Yes, for azgti at least
Do you have any tips for balancing then?
Loosen up the clutch and see which way it falls to then either push forward or backwards depending on what side is moving
Uh yes but since the dec is so stiff I can move the counter weight like 5-10cm without the mount moving
So its hard for me to properly balance
Is everything tighten down even tight on the tripod, might be some play happening somewhere
Ahh Iโm dumb Iโm thinking the azgti not the star adventurer gti, thatโs a my bad, so there might be a little play in the gears I know mine had that problem and I just balanced it the best I could even if there was slight movement I just went with it anyways and guiding was still vary good
Yes
Ahh oke, usually my guiding is also pretty good (0.7-1.3 arcsec) but yesterday it went crazy
Yeah those numbers was around what I was getting, there might be a video on how to tighten the gears inside I know cuiv did one but for the azgti but I didnโt look for the gti
@bright vale https://youtu.be/_nZr6yJWqOo?si=svKsOPZwMVoc7MDZ
In this video, we'll show you how to quickly adjust the backlash in your Skywatcher Star Adventure GTi telescope to get the best performance possible. backlash is the amount of lateral movement of the telescope tube when you're using it, and it can affect your accuracy and magnification.
By adjusting the backlash, you can get the performance yo...
Thankyou!
Have you heard of the "pencil technique"?. I haven't used it as my guiding is good at sub second guiding.
The technique is basically where you can ballance the Ra of the az-gti on a table while the scope of hanging off. The Ra is balanced with a pen. This way you can adjust the counterweight as good as the az-gti will allow. Hang on I'll try and find a photo.
The Skywatcher Az-GTI is a great little and affordable computerized mount for astrophotography.
But rotation, particularly in the azimuth movement (the RA if you use it in equatorial mode) is often stiff. So stiff that balancing the payload is not possible.
The hard way to fix this is open the mount, tune it, grease it, etc. But for the faint...
Hope this helps. You'll need to find out what axis your setup is NOT performing well in. Always ballance the Dec "camera heavy".
@bright vale have you enabled the encoders?
@livid glacier look into this forum, itโs about your mount
looks nice, but this isn't possible with the swsa gti, sorry
sorry idk what those are
The skywatcher star adventurer wouldn't need any special techniques.
Both axis are free rotating (smooth)
yea the swsa 2 is free rotating but my problem is that the gti's ra is so stiff so its hard to balance right
Yes I understand that.. I have the az-gti for the last 4 years.
I understand your issue. This is why I said abiyt the Pen solution.
What's actually wrong with your ballance
I don't see how I can do the pen solution with the swsa gti
You won't
It's pretty dark here
Just some questions for anyone, Iโm currently using the az gti in eq mode controlling it with an eq mod cable through NINA, Iโm currently trying to see if I can guide does anyone have an idea how I can set up guiding for the az gti?
Yes. It's easy. Use a guidescope on top of your main imaging scope and use a guide camera connected to that.. The use phd2 software and then link that software to nina. Cuiv the lazy geek on YouTube will be a great place to learn hot to get everything talking to each other.
I don't think your far from my location. South East.
So I donโt need a direct connection between the guide camera and the mount with a cable? Thatโs all I really wanted to know tbh
No. That's an st4 connection.. Not recommended. Just use a USB cable to your laptop ๐
Great, Thank you!
Your welcome ๐
Yes I live in Medway. But I'm in Wales at the moment
Oh OK. Close ish lol. I'm Ipswich.
I'm in Hull ๐ฉ
I finally found an stl for the battery cover.
Called 'az gti cup'.
It's so obvious. Why didn't I search for that?
were you the recipient of that free azgti?
I was indeed. Super lucky.
Just accumulating other bits and bobs and I should get to use it in a week or so
I had to sell my 3100d nikon and bought a d600.
Bought the az gti pc cable. Eq wedge and some other odd bits. Thread adapters etc.
Realised my current tripod is nowhere near up to the task so ordered a skywatcher tripod from ali which should be here next week
nice to have you in here. The Az-Gti is great for what it is
Thanks.
Yea I'm sure I'm going to have good fun with it
did you get NINA + GSS set up yet?
Yea I've got it to a point where I can tell it to take the pictures and how long the exposure is.
Very basic sequence.
I haven't had a chance to mess with the other features.
And I need to do some reading up on things like gain and what it means
I don't have a lot of experience with DSLRs, but I bet a lot of people know what gain to run the d600 at
once it's set, you don't change it, you just vary the exposure
I combined my NGC6914 narrowband data that I got from my location with the RGB data that I got from Wales. I'll probably fiddle with this some more over the coming weeks but here's 1st cut
?. What did miss?.
Someone gave away an azgti on astro bargains
clear tonight \o/
trying for a bonkers target - the Garlic Nebula
never heard of that one
It's incredibly faint https://www.astrobin.com/h4rts5/
After an hour, I've barely got a sniff of it
this is after almost 2hrs (starless). Need a LOT more data yet
Had some pretty clear sky tonight and some unexpected free time.
Quickly got everything plugged in and out in the garden.
Had a complete brain fart and got absolutely nothing done ๐
I need to do some reading up on the actual sequence of events.
Like what to set the wedge to.
Polar alignment. Need to work out how to actually do it.
How to then pass that to nina and then what to do from there.
Maybe I should have had a play with just synscan app and alt az first ๐ซ
Been playing with stars this evening. I "think" I've found the settings that I'm happy with using GHS to get my stars better (under control). Thoughts?
Welcome and sounds like your getting there. All takes time.
You'll get there.
I would bother with the Synscan app and the alt-az as when it come to learning nina and the eq mode then it will be confusing for you.
Nina won't work with alt-az very well (if at all).
Stick with it and have fun.
Cuiv the lazy geek has some amazing videos explain step by step.
This groups ia amazing too ๐.
It looks great!
I simplified my process for star mask. I do a simple manual histogram stretch until stars look visible, then I save as TIF and load into "ImagesPlus" (it's free), I use "Special Functions / Star Size" and reduce star sizes by 1 notch on the slider, then save as TIF. Then I load my stretched starless TIF & stars TIF from ImagesPlus into GIMP and combine the layers (with stars as screen merge function). I can then adjust the stretch with levels or curves.
I also stumbled on another improvement strategy for stars...
extract green layer from your RGB & save as a mono image
load your star layer into GIMP in a layer group, place the G layer above it & set the merge function to "luminance". Using G as luminance tightens your stars especially on the blue layer. Of course, this makes more difference if your scope isn't great ๐
good for those of us who have achromatic doublets
๐ค.. Not come across this software.
I think I'm getting green stars in my photo.. Not sure why as I have used the scnr.
In fact, I just took that idea a step further & used my narrowband stars as luminance layer for my RGB stars. It tightens them up a lot ๐
That's what I was thinking.
I'm still looking to buy a 7nm filter.
This will help with my star size.
This winter I'm hoping to order one.
1hr45mins on sh2-114. I reckon this will look great if I can get at least 12hr on it
A bit of a random question but I don't know where else to reach out to people in the US ๐
I have a $10 Amazon gift voucher which I stupidly bought in error. Anyone US people want it for $7.50? ๐
Wait are you getting clear skies?
cloud cover website said it was cloudy. I looked outside & saw stars, so I got a few hours in. I think it was a bit hazy but it was enough to get something
Damn.. lucky! The weather has been terrible the last few days!
Is anyone using a redcat51 with their gti here?
9k messages to help a man with his polar alignment ๐คฃ
Wowโฆ
He needed a lot of help ๐
I downloaded the nina 3 star alignment plug in and think I have the general idea of what to do.
If my lat is 53.7 I need to do 90-53.7 = 36.3 and set my wedge to that?
Set 53
yes, that will get you roughly there
assuming you are using an az-gti with the swsa wedge?
36
I've always set it to my latitude, was I wrong?
when you use the az-gti on a swsa wedge, it ends up 90deg off, so you have to calculate it as 90-<your lattitude>
even if you get it wrong, the TPP polar alignment will make you fix it
oh yeah the azgti is a bit weird on the wedge, I forgot
Perfect. Thanks guys
I'll have a try again tonight if it stays clear
I'll at least try and get some practise with the alignment
So somewhere around there and adjust as directed by nina alignment plug in?
Yes
Thanks. It's starting to make a bit more sense now
Downloaded astap yesterday for the platesolving/alignment
Go to use it now. Forgot to download the star map ๐
every day is a school day ๐
OK I've got it trying to platesolve but it fails with every image
Just a loop of exposure. Solving. Solving failed. Repeat
Are you using NINA?
if so, make sure your telescope details are correct in the equipment tab
Yes using nina
focal length has to be correct
I assume the preview image looks ok? stars are (mostly) in focus?
does NINA identify a lot of stars in the stats box?
perhaps copy/paste some screenshots?
what does the stats box show?
Sorry for the phone pics
ok slightly out of focus but not terrible
check these two are correct in the equipment tab ...
Camera Pixel Size
Go to Options->Equipment->Camera section, the pixel size needs to be entered in micrometers.
Telescope Focal Length
Go to Options->Equipment->Telescope section and set the focal length of your telescope in millimeters. The value has to be the effective focal length considering all correctors and optical elements that could shift the overall focal length
Oh hang on. That stats box
If I take a picture using the imaging tab
It now shows 87 stard
If It takes the picture using the plate solver
In the exact same position
It shows 0
ok take a pic in imaging tab that shows 87 stars
then press the plate solve button. it's 4th icon on the top of the screen
does it solve then?
18-55
ok and what's your current zoom?
ok, and it's a canon 600d?
apparently 600d should be 4.3um pixel size
It son f3.5
if so, put that in the "focal ratio" box
3.5
then go back to imaging tab, press the plate solve button
Thank you for this btw. I really appreciate it
Oh bah gawd it's doing stuff!
I don't have time to do any flats or anything now but it's doing things!
great ๐
it's WAYY off
physically move your mount rather than use the adjusting knobs
The up/down is moving the wedge?
altitude is up/down, so wind the screw in the wedge or adjust the length of the legs to point the scope higher
az is left right, so rotate the mount left
(quite a bit)
once you get the numbers much smaller, quit out of the alignment tool and start again
and, once you get it nailed, mark the positon of the tripod legs on the floor so you can go back to it quickly next time
OK I got it down a tiny bit then it kept failing to download from the camera
Then the camera died
๐
I only have one battery too.
Quite annoyed as it is close to perfect conditions but I've learned a lot tonight so thank you for your time
it's still cloudy & raining here but apparently will be clear by 11
my alignment should take <5mins to get it perfect ๐
Yea haha. I have a 4 month old baby and work tomorrow so I'm not going to make things any more difficult than they already are haha
I WFH so my "office" is 10ft away from my bed
btw, tip for you - get one of those cheap USB powered dew heaters off ebay & wrap it round your lens, otherwise it will dew over & spoil your evening
I'm planning on it.
I'm going to get a cheap intervalometer so I can take the mount and camera away from home with a 12v battery aswell.
I just need to wait a little while as I've bought cables, tripod, wedge and all kinds of other stuff in the past month and my wife is starting to ask how much things cost ๐
I need to lay low for a while before I start spending again
Ah I got the pc cable
That's good to know
Ah no way I missed that on the synscan app. I've just seen it now
I'll have a look on ali express
you can configure NINA to send the commands to trigger the camera
So I could do away with the camera USB into laptop or would I still need that?
Bargain
how would NINA obtain the image if you removed usb?
i used 600d in the past before i killed it. There are two drivers for nina. Canon utility and ascom. And Nina pretty often failed to download the image. Ascom driver worked a bit better as i remember. But anyway it was not stable
It is very inconsistent. I thought it was the cable at first but I tried 3
another few hrs on sh2-114. Stil far from done ๐ฎ
You use the az gti for these?
I'm just in the process of transferring over to another mount, so half this data was on az-gti, the other on my new mount
but, az-gti is very capable. this new one is similar performance at tracking
this new one is bigger, more stable, and can recover from dither quicker
don't tease, what mount
also that is coming along vary good
It's a second hand EXOS-2 mount with a controller kit https://www.terransindustry.com/en-gb/collections/onstep-v4-kit/products/exos2?variant=42227641385153
it's nothing fancy or expensive, but it's a cheap way to get an EQ5 class mount
hey it will let you have more flexibility with telescope weight so its a win no matter what
Yeh exactly. I plan an upgrade in the spring
nice, do you know what your going for yet
nope, but it will be at least a triplet refractor, probably 80 or 90mm. They're so damned expensive though, although this looks like a good budget option (with a reducer) https://www.teleskop-express.de/en/telescopes-4/apochromatic-refractor-55/all-apos-und-eds-223/ts-optics-photoline-80-mm-f-6-fpl53-triplet-apo-2-5-rap-focuser-3881
but, if I'm going to spend that, why not push the boat out and get something better?
looks like a good scope looks and size about my old scope just better glass (thanks svbony...lol), yeah you can ask around and see what more knowledgeable people will recommend with that mount
Just catching up. I took my lable off as it has No relevance to PA. It's a sticker. Nina or any pa software will inform you what to do.
Sure, you'll need a rough attitude ANGLE though.
I'll catch up sonny. Didn't realise that there was soo much.
Thank you. I started making progress and my camera died ๐
Was a very helpful few hours though. Learned a lot
it's the start of a very slippery slope ๐
It was actually nice just sitting out in the dark with a brew tbh
yeh it starts like that
have entered your gps location at GSS? looks like something wrong. When you connect GSS you mount should be at home position - your lens should roughly point at Polaris and counterweight looking down
you can check you mount position at GSS 3d tab. Shoul look like this
clear again tonight \o/
So I've done reasonably close alignment.
Not too concerned with that being perfect. Just wanted it rough so I can get the hang of slewing to targets
When I tell it to go to say andromeda, it will point way off
Could it be due to wrong side of pier selected?
I can't seem to change that
Meh.
Give up for the night
I just had a brief look at gss but wasn't entirely sure what I was looking at tbh
I've put everything away now
At least I've managed to use 3 star alignment accurately
Finally out imaging again!
I couldn't get my hfr lower than 2.7 this evening though, perhaps seeing issues
There is forecast aurora tonight though so that may interfere with our imaging ๐
mine's ~2 or less ๐
mind you, I'm on the narrowband filter tonight
Lowest I've ever got is 2.3
that's why you need a focuser
Yeah I'm shooting M31 so the narrowband filters off!
I know I'm just not capable of making one ๐
So if your mount goes to wrong point check your location at GSS is correct and and enable 3d tab at options and confirm it points to north
Thank you. I'll check when I get another clear night. Hopefully soon
I've got work in the morning ๐ฉ
me too
getting there, but it's such a dim target, needs much more data
That's looking very nice
it's still far too noisy. However, check this out. This is one 10min exposure
like I said, it's so incredibly faint
Looks like another mostly clear night and I have work tomorrow..
Again ๐
When setting the mount up before i turn anything on. Should I have it straight upright and pointing to polaris? Or does the 3 star alignment remove the need for doing that
Also does it matter if my camera is mounted with it this way
Or should it be this way?
Before I turn it on
Also can my camera dovetail be sideways or does it need to run in line with the lens?
Like so?
It changes the direction of its mount
These are probably really dumb questions, ๐
when you connect GSS, gss thinks that your mount is at home position and looking at Pole. So it's better roughly point your mount to north and then connect.
plate solve and sync will update your position if it was not home
You should enable sync at plate solve tab or at options in nina. Don't remember exactly
I think it does not matter. Also sideways should work, but I have not tested it
This is how it's looking now with alignment very close
I don't know how it is supposed to look but it just looks very odd to me
it changes angle while polar alignment
if you aligned you can try go to some target
also there is home button at GSS. It should return mount to home position looking at pole
Thanks. I'll try slew to a target and see how it looks
So I managed to get it slewing properly. Not much time for imaging so just took 15 darks and 15 lights at 10 second exposures and no trails visible.
Should be able to start to learn the imagine side of it now the mount set up is reasonably well practised
hi, i need some major help. i have skymax 127 with az-gti mount, and the skywatcher equatorial wedge thingy. i am having major issues with literally everything.
I am going outside with the telescope, pointing the equatorial wedge north as per an app on my phone. i have it set to my latitude (51). i have the azgti mount set so that the telescope is pointing straight north as well. if i take a picture using nina, astap is unable to solve it. if i slew to vega, i am actually looking at tycho. i am unable to do TPPA because astap cannot solve anything. i have my telescope set correctly to 1500mm focal length and f12.
what am i doing wrong ?
Astap might not be getting enough stars to plate solve
i plate solved it fine online
Try to turn annotations on so you can see the stars it's detecting
Also switch to hocus focus if you haven't already
Are you sure focus is alright?
yes, because i can plate solve the images online fine
Does the statistics tab show an hfr value?
Astap is picky, the online solver not as much
that's the last screenshot i got before i rage quit and went back inside
that was me slewed to vega
i'm obviously doing something wrong with my initial setup
Next time switch to hocus focus and see if it helps, you can also change the star detection options so they're more relaxed and even out of focus stars will be detected
what is hocus focus - is that a nina thing ?
Tbf you're not helping yourself by shooting at 1500mm
Plugin in nina
ok. so why isn't astap solving ?
it solved fine when i had the camera in my sv106 "guide" scope
It still uses astap but the way it detects stars is different
ok, i'll try it again tomorrow then i guess ๐
i just wanna be able to look at stars !
Needs pointier stars, you need to make sure the stats tab shows an hfr value
that's as pointy as i can get them
Then get hocus focus and change the settings a bit, I don't remember exactly what you need to change but it's 1am and my brain is barely working
fair - if you remember tomorrow please tag me
i'm new to all of this, like... really new
i'll get hocus focus installed tomorrow as well.
is my initial "point it vagely north" process correct ?
Yes, the wedge has to be set at 90ยฐ - your latitude but other than that you're good
I had similar issues. Mine was due to fstop and focal length being incorrect in the equipment options.
Do you have stars when you take a picture out of the plate solver?
@livid glacier try biggest base for astap D80, if you not use it . Check pixel size and focal length is correct at nina. Also you can run astap without nina and select your image and play with settings and see what astap says
so astap was able to solve with images captured through my SV106
but seems to completely fail at those captured through my Skymax 127
only thing i changed was the focal length and ratio of the scope
in nina ? i've never had stars highlighted. it shows star COUNT, but never highlights them
I had to download a smaller astap catalogue
Star # would show but plate solve failed everytime
yeah, i dunno what to other than maybe attempt to use another solver
clear tonight \o/
yeah, cba to go outside though ๐
Did you change f and focal length to suit the other scope?
It must be a settings issue if it works with the other scope
yeah. so when i had it on 200 f4 with the SV106 it solved fine. if i have it on 1500mm f12 it doesn't solve on the Skymax 127
would the camera affect the focal length ?
https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi-120mm-mini-usb-20-mono-camera.html i'm using one of these in the back of the scope
i suspect it's the camera then affecting the focal length
maybe it'll be better if i put it in the 90 degree mirror piece, cos it goes in quite far when put into the back of the scope - a lot further than any of my eye pieces
so i bet that's teh issue. i bet using the camera in the back of the scope like that makes the focal length something dumb like 1365.7mm
I may be completely wrong tbh though lol
as long as you set the pixel size correct, it should be ok
hmm, definitely got the pixel size correct
cos, as i said, it solves fine on the guide scope
just not on the main scope with the same camera settings (with scope focal length and ratio adjusted)
i wonder if i should be using the extender that came with it
OK so i had the extender ON it
maybe that was the problem
maybe i will go out later then ๐
you should go out now ๐
i am waiting for chicken burgers
Moon is killing my M31 subs this evening but going for it anyway ๐
Should give me 5 hours of broadband data to go with my 2 hours of Ha data
I'm on NGC7822 tonight
I will continue sh2-114 another time. I'm 9hrs into that one and it need another 9
First process. Need to do better tbh . Putting the Ha on is such a pain ๐
I'm trying to catch up on the comments.. But I believe that your using a very small sensor AR 1280 * 960.. Together with a long focal length will cause major issues. Your star database to Platesolve will have to be the biggest one.
Make sure you have downloaded the correct Platesolve database.
that or buy a different camera ๐
https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi-585mc-usb-3-camera.html would this be a better option for the main scope ?
can you use multiple cameras in NINA ?
Still a very small sensor with small pixels
You can have multiple instances of nina opened
can they both control the scope at the same time ?
what's the best camera to use for the scope do you think ?
wdym?
533 at least, I'm not sure you can use anything bigger
as in, can i guide it from one instance of nina using one camera, then use another instance to capture images ?
guiding is handled by phd2
it's free
not really
damnit ๐ฆ
the 585 would be usable with a smaller telescope but at 1500mm you're asking for trouble
for planets you can use the mak just fine
yeah, but i'd need an expensive camera to take pictures
dunno where to go from here really apart from spending a grand on a camera ๐
I would get a 585 and a small telescope with a short focal length so you can do both dso and planets
something like the evoguide 50 which has been tried and tested here
is the wildcat 51 good ? i like the look of it
you mean the redcat?
yeah
it's one of the best
yeah, but if you can get cooling it's worth it
guiding might be necessary on the azgti
can i guide with the main scope and camera ?
no
ok, so i guess my plan for the 127 is to put the camera back in the guide scope. align it with the main scope
This is my thought as to why it's not platesolving
This is M13 with the 1500mm Mak AND the 1280*960 resolution of his zwo 120mc-s. AND the smallest of the Messier objects M57.. Crazy fov, thus why it's Not platesolving.
This is the same 1500mm Mak and a 585mc sensor
So although a wider fov I believe that the 585mc sensor "should" Platesolve ok with the biggest Astap database.
@livid glacier do you heve photo of your setup?
@livid glacier this is with my Sony apsc sensor (crop sensor, so mirrorless camera) on your Mak : M13
camera is put into the back of the 127
so the 120mm isn't to be used in the back of the scope ?
from last night
very nice ๐
this is the best i can do so far:
but that's not with AZGTI mount
if it's supposed to be guiding it has to go on the guide scope
the 120mm is a guiding scope only then i assume ?
it's intended for guiding but you can use it however you want
This is nice, how much data?
Do you guys reckon I keep getting more data on this?
6hrs
The 120mc-s or the mm (as both have the same resolution and sensor size). It's designed as a guide camera and therefore performs best as one.
Your scope is a Planet scope.. So putting the two together will dauwe issues with Platesolve and tracking (tracking as you'll need to be alot more accurate with pa and leveling of your tripod) basicly what I'm trying to say is that your gear is Not very forgiving with your fov.
Put your zwo 120 on the guidescope and use another camera for the 127mm (Mak). Is the zwo 120mm the only canera you have?
@livid glacier so putting it all together and the advise from everyone on here do you think you'll be able to get it all going?. You'll need all the software ready and all the settings correctly in the software.
no, i understand it wont work, hence asking for camera recs ๐
as i said i'll put the 120mm back in my guidescope, make sure it's lined up to the main scope
then consider getting a camera for the main scope
Lined up, yes but not perfectly. Mine is roughly aligned.. It dont matter it it's not looking at the same area of stars.
yeah, i wanna get it roughly lined up
basically so i can say "go to saturn" and it will
A GOTO command is via the main scope so any instruction from any software will use the main scope and Platesolve from there. Once PLATESOLVED nina will sync the mount to tell the mount where it is (kinda like a 3-star alignment but without the hassle of doing one and therefore more accurate.
The guidescope has nothing to do with the pointing accuracy.
Hope that makes sense ๐.
ok, so how do i do polar alignment without a camera in my main scope ?
this is what i am confused about
if i have a camera in my guide scope, how can i align my main scope ?
i thought the whole point of a guidescope was to guide the main scope to a position
When I first started out I wasn't able to use my Sony and nina (or any other astrophotography software).. But I found a way.
I used my zwo 120mc-s in the guidescope and asked nina to use the guidescope as the main scope. This allowed me to Polar Align my mount and THEN I'd connect my Sony to the main scope and then use an intervaloniter to twke the images.
So to answer your question.. Its always best to use a camera on the main scope to Polar Align but if you can't then just use the guidescope.
Use a distant object like a tower block or a building that far away and just align them the best you can.
The other way is to use the moon to align them both. When I shoot a target like M27 I can see them both on the fov. My guidescope is slightly off but it don't matter.
All the guidescope AND camera is doing is sending small corrections to the mount.. It dont been to be perfect, just near as.
ok, cos i was able to polar align on my guidescope previously
Yes. With a little bit of thinking and fooling nina into thinking it was your MAIN scope.. Yes.
Remebwr 1) level tripod (as best you can)
2) Ballance (canera heavy with the az-gti)
3) pa with your GUIDE CAMERA
BUT
When you buy a main imaging camera you can forget this way of doing it, so don't get to set in your ways ๐.
Make sense?
totally, thanks ๐
i just need to get to a place during the day where i can see about a mile
then i can align both scopes as best i can
It looks like you have the same guidescope as me. The Svbony sv106 and at 240mm f4 it's a great scope, although NOT for imaging. All you'll need to do it use an eyepiece IN YOUR MAK and look at a bright star and then ALIGN your guidescope to that star too using the 6x adjusting thumb screws on the guidescope rings. ๐
Remeber ballance the guide ballance too (if you can slide the guidescope up or down then then will help)
Yes. Or even in the back garden and use a TV aerial? Something that a decent distance.
yeah, SV106 guidescope
i'm having issues actually seeing stars in the eye piece, i think it's either my eyes, or i'm not using the eye piece correctly. i need one with a bigger rubber part i think
using a 25mm eyepiece
find it hard to line my eye up with it, but then i always had that issue at school with microscopes and with binoculars
i need a larger eyepiece i think maybe ?
hence why i wanted to use cameras
@livid glacier will reply soon.. Just have to pop out for a little while.
no rush ๐
@livid glacier I think your refering to the "exit pupil" of any given eyepiece.
The "zoom" if any given eyepiece is referred to the "mm" that the eyepiece says.. I am not knowledgeable with visual astronomy or the specs of eyepieces.
The exit pupil is I believe the diameter of the available angle a viewer can move their eye in relation to the light path.
Let me try and find an example ๐ as I'm not sure myself. If you have had issues with optical equipment previously then you may find a bigger exit pupil better.
I'm sure other people can be of more help in there as I don't understand ALOT of it all with visual but I'm willing to learn too ๐
other annoying thing is wearing glasses
If your using a cheap ep that came with the telescope, chances are that they have a small exit pupil.
I don't recommend cheap ep's fot the Mak OR ANY long focal length telescope
yeah i'm using the ones that came with it
I was going to ask about if you ware glasses. I "think" you'll be better off with an eyepiece with "longer eye relief". I believe this is right.
Not sure where you are located but there are some good brands that are less cost but high quality.
oh that's nice. is that a good one to use with the Skymax127 ?
also, i was thinking of just getting a mirrorless camera for the main scope - would that work ?
32mm is goof with your Mak.. But this is all new to me and you will need to ask these friendly people on here and research yourself.
like could i buy a sony alpha and attach it to the scope ? would that work ?
Yes a mirrorless Sony like mine would would well as you focus by moving the mirror and NOT the focuser.. So back focus should be an issue. I have a friend that had the Mak 127mm and he uses a Canon M50. But you'll need to work out the adapters.
Nina also works with SOME brands of dslr / mirrorless.
nina seems to work with sony's
just a case of working out what attachments i need i guess
Yes. I have a Sony mirrorless a6000 and anothough Sony has never liked sharing thier SDK for use with other software.. There are people who have coded thier own software so we CAN use it with NINA. Canon and Nikon are more common and used with astrophotography software.
Yes, SOME and only some Sony cameras are supported.
Many of the users of my Sony ASCOM driver are N.I.N.A fans, and have more than their share ofโฆ letโs call it funโฆ trying to dial in things like ISO/Gain via the interface that both N.I.N.A and ASCOM expose.
Another feature I miss in N.I.N.A that Iโm always using in APT is live-view.
These things arenโt really N.I.N.Aโs fault, itโs the fact that ...
i shall have a think. that eye piece you linked is 2", which i'd need to get an adaptor for cos out of the box it only supports 1.25" eyepieces
but i have some stuff to do, read, and understand ๐
Yes. I installed this and it works well with a little giggle.
Then I upgraded my gear to the zwo 585mc shortly after.
I thought it was 2". My bad. 1.25 tend to be cheaper but, YES do read up ๐
what main scope are you using ?
cos i am thinking i might get better experience with a Redcat 51
This is with the Sony a6000 on my az and the skywatcher 72ed.
see, that's the kinda thing i want to do
42x60 seconds
When I didn't really know what I was going lol and thus no calibration frames
72ed is the same focal length as the redcat 73 i assume ?
The William Optics 73 is 450mm and my skywatcher is 420mm
Yes the William will be getter quality but ALL DEPENDS on how far you want to take AP. ๐
the Redcats are expensive
maybe i should get a 72ed and give that a go
put the 120mc in my sv106 to guide it, then work out some other camera for the main scope
you have a field flattener on that ?
hmm, i have a canon 450d doing nothing actually...
i totally could use that if i was able to hook it into nina or something. wonder what else i'd need to do that i wonder... ๐ค
Remember the az-gti has a limit of 5kgs for visual but all of my gear is just over the 5kgs and it's running perfect. As I always say : ballance and TLC are KEY with the az-gti.
I don't have a flattener as the zwo 585mc can get away with it. I don't see any or little weird star's at all edges.
looks about right. just need to work out how to hook the 450d up to NINA
that's also a pretty sizable weight. i only have the "stock" one that comes with the skywatcher counterweight kit
This is my most recent M31 with thr zwo 585mc. No flattener & the 72ed
i mean, i have the 450d already, so might as well use it for something ๐
Canon 450 will be good to start off with, as long as it's compatible with NINA. You'll also need to buy the canon to your scope adapter.
Perfect.
apparently it does support it natively
Good news. So that's what you'll ne testing tomorrow. Then you can adjust the settings in nina and test out on a clear night.
Align your guidescope first.
So how about the 450 and the Mak? On M31?
ok, it is ordered ๐
oh i could try that, sec
lol, maybe not
awwww yiss
should i use PHD2 (or whatever it's called) for guiding and nina for image capture ?
And this is why a zwo 120 will not Platesolve.
Perfect.
i really appreciate all your time btw, especially answering dumb questions from me ๐
That's the best way to do it.
No problem, your welcome.
i am in your position when it comes to 3d printing - i answer a lot of the same questions from a lot of new users, so i know what it's like !
it's very interesting to be on "the other side", if that makes sense. AP is something i know absolutely nothing about !
i'll get PHD2 set up tomorrow and work out how to get NINA talking to the 450D (if i can remember where it is). i'll probably buy a dumb battery for it also, then i can plug it into the mains during captures
Yes that makes sense.
When I can't got out I love helping people and still being active in AP.
Phd2 is easy and will set itself up.. Its just a matter of tweaking your setting after you ha e learned how yo get the best out of the guiding gear, all takes time.
Yes, install phd2 and leave everything as default until you get out under the stars.
Then you can tun the guiding assistant inside phd2 and it will make suggestions to help you tweak it all.
Find and connect the 450 to nina and then you can take it from there. Keep up updated and we should use private messaging from now on just to keep the az-gti forum clean.
I'm getting failed plate solving every time again now ๐
If I use 18mm fl f3.5 it works fine. If I use anything else it fails. Maybe settings issue?
@livid glacier let's try and get to the bottom of this. Please send screen shots of your settings and remind us of the gear you use . Thanks
would it be better in a different thread rather than here ?
seems the issue is with plate solving on certain setups more than a prob with the az-gti !
Apologies, I tend to agree though. My bad.. Thought I'd have known better considering our @livid glacier convo the other day
If you change your zoom, you have to change the focal length setting in NINA. Probably best to align at the configured settings then change zoom after you've finished alignment
I doubt az-gti is responsible for your plate solving issues
yeah correct, hence making the other thread to not imply it is ๐
Anyone gambling the skies tonight?
too cloudy here ๐ฆ
I would need to put the camera back in the exact same position after removing and refocusing wouldn't I?
I changed the focal length to 55nm and f4.5 or whatever it was
55mm. Not nm. That's pretty big
you're aligning the mount not the camera
I know but if the mount is aligned by pictures taken with the camera, couldn't the camera not being back in the same position cause issues?
Keep in mind I am quite empty between the ears
So maybe this is a stupid question ๐ตโ๐ซ
no, because the mount is still aligned
perhaps when you do your first go-to, it will adjust position slightly to point the mount at the correct location, but camera orientation won't affect mount alignment
telescopes don't zoom ๐
I mean for the plate solving haha
Id like to be able to set lens to 55mm. Focus. Plate solve
then you have to tell NINA that it's at 55mm rather than 18
provided the settings in the hardware tab match reality, you're good
I tried and it failed constantly.
Maybethe 55mm marker on the lens isn't actually 55mm exactly
Was some good insight for me! Cloudy here now ๐
Was super clear here. Went and had a brew. Showed my face with the wife for a few minutes. Went outside.
Thick cloud
At least you can blame the wife now
Always the way. A few years ago it was winter and crystal clear.. I setup and then waiting for complete darkness.. When u went outside again.. A neighbour decided to have a nice warm bonfire.. The smoke was a killer let alone the light from the flames! ๐ก. ๐
Ordered a dew heater. Dummy battery. From ali so will probably blow my camera up
Some usb breakouts, barrel jack connectors for my cowboyed 2x USB output on the battery cover Work in progress
And a snap cable for when I'm mobile with no laptop I can sequence with synscan app
Oh yes u forgot about the SNAP cable. I used one with my Sony.
GSS will also use the SNAP port on the az-gti (next to the dc input on the az-gti).
NINA supports it too
So I can use the snap and save the pictures onto the camera instead of the laptop in the garage which would then need putting on a USB and taking to my PC in the house?
yeh I guess
Didn't have enough weight on my AZGTI, didn't want to order in another one... so went to CAD and made a thingy to use some old dumbbell weights I had on it. Seems like I nailed it !
nice!
I have ordered filter wheel and gemini EAF. Filter wheel is Touptek 8x1.25 so maybe too heavy for az-gti. Will see. It was on discount, so i decided to try it.
Would be nice to have askar duoband SII+O3 filter to my setup, but it's only 2 inch
High iq move
Nice lil Seestar you got hidden under there
shhhh ๐
looking really solid!
https://www.avalon-instruments.com/products-menu/upas/universal-polar-alignment-system-detail i was wondering if something like this existed last night. turns out it does exist !
Universal Polar Alignment System UPAS Universal Polar Alignment System
Yea, i was gonna make one of my own but it kinda fell through
yeah, that's what i was thinking. couple of stepper motors etc
those are ridiculously expensive and PA isnโt that hard anyway
itโs difficult to do, you have to be very precise
0.9 degree steppers and a large pulley should be relatively accurate
but anyhoo, i managed to get TPPA last night, but then was still off on my slews to targets. then the clouds set in so i had to stop
this is where it slewed to when i told it to go to M31:
which is the same issue i was having previously with the 127, remember ?
where it'd say it was somewhere, but it wasn't. i wonder if the mount is "sagging" ?
Yea, but the rig to hold it and the force needed to rotate tje bolts is quite a bit
itโs probably because your polar alignment isnโt spot on, which isnโt much of a issue. Platesolving will fix it. Itโs a normal thing
yeah, but i was within 38 seconds last TPPA and it still failed to slew correctly
and i couldn't work out how to "correct" the position
Yea itโs normal, happens to a lot of people
thatโs odd, did u plate solve to m31?
it wasn't looking at M31
i TPPA'd, went to home, asked it to slew to M31 and it went there
What did you use to slew the scope
Yea thatโs the problem
u wasnโt platesolving
use framing assistant instead
then click slew and centre
38 arcseconds of error?
i think 00โ00โ38
^
ok, for a sec I thought you meant minute
i couldn't work out how to use Framing Assistant. i never saw a Slew and Centre button when i searched for M31 ๐ฆ
prob doing something wrong
open nina now and iโll show u if u can
different laptop ๐ and it's all downstairs.
ah alr
but i've got clouds for the next week, so not gonna be able to check if it worked for a looong time ๐ฆ
oh, do i have to click Load Image ?
yea lol
AAAAH ok, that'll be it then
from the sky atlas you press send to framing assistant and then slew and center
I just use framing assistant but yea both will work
yeah that also works
not a very intuitive application ๐
It's also good to know that by default you need internet to Load image. So if you go outside without internet you need to download cache to use Framing Assistant offline
I find my targets in Stellarium then tell the framing assistant in NINA to get its target from Stellarium
they're running on different machines too
i have internet access in my garden
i've not yet got to the point where i'll be in the middle of a field
and even then i can just hotspot
I use a small travel router on my tripod. It will connect my gear to my wifi network when I'm at home, and when I'm away, it will put out its own wifi signal for me to connect to
Learn something everyday!
if I had a lathe in my garage I would build one of these myself. That's the one tool I never got around to getting
@livid glacier its not an easy peice of software to get used to and there is lots to setup first BUT when you do then it will become your friend ๐.
When nina does thr flip (maridian) it's wicked.
Youll get there with Platesolve and you'll love it.
In the options menu there is a little place where you can tell nina the parameters for Platesolve. Make sure these are correct
QQ : although I've set this up as to how I feel is best for me.. How you set your up for the az-gti in regards to the tick boxes?
How do you get this view?
๐ค. I didn't realise. Blame the clouds ๐
Your Dec guiding and other setting at 70. Any differents?
And does the encoder help turned on?
What your version?
Mine's 1081
I don't think so because PHD2 will just work it out when it does its calibration
I read somewhere that encoders help precision but I never noticed any difference
oh, this is from me uploading a screenshot of the live view to astrometry online plate solver
i'd like the same kinda view in NINA to be honest, but not sure it's possible
Yeah, same for me. I turned them off as I didn't want ANY conflict between software(s)
Nina won't provide any information on regards to this.
If you want to display info like this you'll need to use a Platesolve site or software.
This is free and useful when I started out.
i think you can do it in Stellarium ?
My bad. Yes, it's a very clean too. Green if I remember right. ๐
Thanks guys I'll check it out of I ever get a clear night
The need for no cloud makes the whole getting practice in thing very difficult ๐ซ
actually, you can also use a planetarium program like hnsky or cartes du ciel to show this info
they connect to your mount using the ascom driver & then show the current position
in realtime. It's cool watching your mount move on the planetarium view
I turned on encoders once on az-gti and mount slewed to the ground, not to the target. Never used again
that's almost certainly not the desired effect
in Nina it never highlights the stars for me when platesolving on the Imaging tab
even though i have the little Star button enabled
You can enable 'annotation' in the options I found
ooh, i shall take a look at that then
As @zy said.. Then restart nina.
I also found this a weird way / glitch
anyone have any insights as to why my tracking seems to be off ? i have my position correct in the mount and nina, i have my altitude set correct. the scope is polar aligned. but when i track a target, it slowly moves to the bottom right of the capture. Notice how it's moved between the shots (about 30 minutes apart).
the mount it set to track, as shown in GSS and in NINA:
@queen thicket Assuming you are not guiding? How sure are you that you are polar aligned? Did you use TPPA?
not guiding, no
used TPPA
talking to Karl as well about this in DM's
this is my TPPA results:
I run tppa like 4 times to make sure the results are even. I slew east first time, west second time, east again and west again.
Yeah a guiding assistant would help determine what's going on. But obv you need a guide cam and scope to do that ๐
Ah nice!
Assuming you checked for cable snags too?
Are you using WiFi or the eqmod cable?
I've recently started to run a PHD2 drift align after TPPA to fine tune it
Yeah I do exactly this! It's really useful
I've never used gss, not sure if there are any settings that need tweaking with regards to tracking rate. But it seems likely to do with polar alignment
bet it's this stuff:
still disappearing ๐
i'm gonna stop and realign i think
yeah, had an error of 8 minutes
Yeah 8 mins is quite a bit. What's the target? I can't work it out ๐
Cocoon Nebula
what would explain the error you think ?
Karl thinks it was due to me capturing at zenith
you're not the only one with problems this evening though. I'm guiding at 0.6" and still I'm getting oval stars
i just reslewed and kicked my sequence off again
It's possible. Maybe do a meridian flip?
Yeah seeing is poor I think. My stars aren't great either and I've got good guiding and spent 30 mins refocusing.
Oval stars or tracking issue?
This is what I also though and mentioned to Rec.
It's passed the maridian and now tracking better.
I got another 2 hours on M31 last night. A few subs will need ditching though I think. It's possible the fog that accumulated this morning was to blame for last night's seeing conditions! I have 7.5 hours of M31 broadband data and 2 hours of M31 Ha data to process this evening!
show us the results then ๐
Tonight!
perhaps you can share the data too? I want to translate Pix continuum subtraction technique to Siril
Background Narrowband and Broadband are often thought of as completely independent fields of astrophotography; generally, for this reason, a target will be imaged in either one or the other, but this is far from the true reality of the situation. Nearly every target in the sky has some component o
I got this last night. I only had about 1hr 45mins of usable data. I normally like to get ~9hrs before I call something done
There are so many different methods it is overwhelming lol. What data did you want? The stacks or individual subs?
I will upload tomorrow
One of many more attempts to come..... I dont think I will get anymore data on it though. Maybe some more Ha.. I dont yet!
