#Rokinon/Samyang 135mm discussion
1 messages · Page 9 of 1
What stop should I shoot at?
Also how do you keep track of what stop you're on when it's in the tube rings?
I don't know but 20-30 seems too long. Someone else should answer, never had cs when comet was out
If you really can't see it, I'd just click down to 2.0 and count manually
Is every tick the next stop? like 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6 etc
No, there's half stops
So from F2, it's 2 ticks to F2.8, then 2 ticks to F4?
Yeah
Thanks!
Yw
Anyone else get weird gradients while processing with PI?
My other telescopes don't do this. Is this just a quirk of the lens? If so what kind of calibration frame do I need for this?
I had something similar but using Siril and DSS. I tested by stacking in both and both came out like that. However, I was able to kind of hide it when stretching in siril.
Flat frames are the solution. Image is perfect now.
what should I shoot, I live in Brasov
Anyone here use the 2600mc pro with the rokinon?
Ofc
Awesome! What filters would you recommend (or anyone else) with that set up?
UV/IR cut Filter depends on how well corrected your copy is but ideally astronomik L3 or Baader UV/IR cut. DNB Filter IDAS NBZ (cheaper) and Antlia ALP-T highspeed
I prefer the IDAS though
I use same filters as with any other lens/ota. Depending on target. 2600MC-Pro has built in uv/ir cut filter, so I typically run a nakid sensor for broadband targets and whatever narrowband filter for emission targets. I have good results with the Antlia ALP-T 5nm Duoband Ha/OIII and the IDAS NBZ filter.
Thank you guys! I’m assuming you guys use a filter drawer with this set up?
Yessir. Or filter wheel for mono 💪
Zwo makes an EOS adapter with built in filter drawer.
Thank you guys so much! My setup is about to get a huge upgrade!
Any other rings or adapters I need to get to add everything to the rokinon? With the filter drawer
Rock'n On 135 with 2600MC-Pro (no filter). 💪
Woah, I really did not have any expectations for this setup
Bhatanov mask is really helpful for focusing, a 3d printed ring system for mounting is useful
Got both of those already! Perfect!
Nice. Should be gtg
Great! I’ll keep you guys updated once I receive everything. I appreciate the help and recommendations!!!
Stars (usually) get pretty abberated wide open at f/2. Stopping down to 2.8 to 4.0 yield decent results for many people.
I’ve been testing f4 with my dslr, got better images than f2.8
Am I looking at the right IDAS NBZ filter here? https://agenaastro.com/idas-nbz-ii-high-speed-imaging-filter-2-inch-mounted-m48.html
ye looks like its the new version. really good quality filters
no halo's and will work even wide open with the roki
and yes the ZWO filter drawer for canon lenses is the best
If you are in a really really lightpolluted area, the Antlia alp-t highspeed is better.
Awesome, thank you!
Is the filter drawer enough to reach back focus with the 2600 mc? I thought I’d need more spacers but then I saw Scotia use the filter drawer https://youtu.be/o5yBMHYUF1U?si=fhJgZeFqIDPi8Mh7
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Hey folks! Join me today as share my thoughts and experiences with one of the best astrophotography lenses ever made, the Samyang 135mm F2!
I'll take you through my journey with this lens, the reasons that I love it and how I'm curr...
It's enough. Backspace is 44mm. 2600MC-Pro flange to sensor is 17.5, EOS filter drawer is 26.5mm. This is exactly 44mm.
If you use a smaller camera (294,533 etc) with a flange to sensor distance of 6.5mm then you'll add an additional 11mm spacer.
Okay this is a good place to talk about camera and lens
Alright perfect! Thank you!!! New camera is on the way!
What filter did you decide for?
Good choice
How can you tell if you have a bad copy of the rokinon?
im starting to think mine might be faulty with these rings and vignetting even after calibration frames, what do you guys think?
reflections from the dew shield could cause those rings iirc
or just bad flats
How could I rule out flats? Other than taking good flats, it seems like I can’t take good flats lol
did you have any dew on the optics when taking flats?
you could also just stack without flats and see if the ring is still there
That’s the one I have on.
probably not dew then ig
welp, im just gonna take a guess and say its reflections from the dew shield then, you can stick some matte fabric type of stuff in there or just paint it with some matte paint so it doesnt reflect
I’ll give it a shot and put some fabric in there. Thank you
did you take bias frames to calibrate the flats?
Yes, I have tried dark flats and regular biases. I am definitely getting different results with different flats. But it’s either a smaller ring or a bigger ring
What do you guys think? 48 180S guided, asi2600MC PRO - I feel like it should be better https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BXtmuAnSzpKtVqc6GH7zcI7tEOiVrVMS/view?usp=sharing
Share your raw stack
I'll take a peek when I am home
Thank you!!!!
So yeah...there is signal in there. But its a bit beat up. I feel like maybe needs better flats, needs better data culling (choose only the best frames). There is aberration, but it can be (mostly) corrected.
you have some blotchy area which can be maybe hi clouds passing through the frame and diminishing the stack
Oh wow! That still does not look as bad as my process, what software are you using?
I am going to restart the whole process, get new data and new calibration frames. Hopefully that will fix all my issues. I’m starting to think I might’ve changed something between my lights and calibration frames.
and I guess depending on bortle zone, this looks like it can be about what to be expected without a narrowband filter
I just ran it in Pixinsight
It has to be clouds, I went through my Orion Nebula data last night and saw a whole bunch of subs had clouds in them. I’m in bortle 4 but these were taken during a full moon
So it’s closer to a bortle 6-7. Wait for new moon. You will cook.
It’s just standard light pollution gradients
The moon doesn’t come up until about 11-12 midnight tonight, and it gets dark at 6. I should have really good pictures in the morning
Clouds aren’t helping though, what does your rejection high map look like, assuming you stacked in wbpp? Or did you use siril?
a few years ago I ran the 2600 and rokinon on elephants trunk with about double the data (150 x 180s) the colors and dark nebula etc...kinda seems to fit in with your data profile
so id say your right on track
That is amazing!!!!
just keep on doing what your doing, get that experience in, understand your data and what your asking from it and keep running your processing to get experience in that area
Thank you!! I am super excited to test tonight, definitely need to pay more attention to calibration frames. That definitely messed with me, but I think I’ll have it down tonight
How do you correct it?
but stepping down can improve this
blurxterminator
I’ve been shooting at 2.8 I think it is? I might go down to 4 tonight
f/4 is usually pretty good
I’ll do that and I’ll try to find a good target to hopefully test after collecting an hour or so of data
find a target and stay on it if you can. an hr is ok...but I mean, more data is always better
lots of cool area to point at
m45 (Pleiades) looks great at 135, you got the north star ifn, you have the wolf cave region
Hmmm, I’ll probably just be patient and finish off in the morning. I could do about 4 hours of m45 and then switch to m42 maybe
all broadband, so no filters needed there
Perfect! Do you mess with the offset? I have it at 50 and I have no idea if I should change it or not
I run with the asiair, so we dont have those settings to mess with lol. and I use default gain
Dark Shark and friends with the 135...but this was a multi night project, ~20hr. But is cool cause its northernly, so can pretty much work on it year round.
The details! That’s incredible!! Where do you have your collection? lol
I have a few images over on AB
Love the variety of colors!
New data looks great! Calibration seems to have done its job https://drive.google.com/file/d/16kqEBO8KkyKJDUvt1psVIA9Bm2jleX5y/view?usp=sharing
Might’ve over processed it, but got the calibration frames working!!
looks much better, yeah
That was well over 5 hours total. It was really exciting to process it
good deal, looks like you are well on your way now
Thanks to all the help I got from you and others! Now I’ve got cloudy night for the next 7 nights 😩
nice, but it's a bit undersaturated
Better than over saturated
About 2 hours worth!
Coming along nicely now. Good job.
yes finally got one
Yay
Why does my Roki do this? This is not tilt or trailing. tilt inspection was very minor and this happened no matter what exposure time I used.
also what might be causing this shadow?
NVM, found out that's all caused by using f/2 instead of 2.8
If you want to stop down just use step down rings, will heavily reduce the diffraction spikes.
Is the black shadow a known artifact of this lens at f/2 or is that something in my imaging train?
I've seen that on other roki's yea
I believe it's common
Lenses in general have similar diffraction spikes
Some Takahashis have it as well
i have it too
I had subarcsecond guiding here.
i think edge ones have some coma at f/2
but i dont have any subs or anything non-blurxed on my phone
I'll have to try 2.8 some time for a comparison.
You can also try 2,4
How do you do that?
The click between 2,0 and 2,8
Ah, I feel dumb! Forgot there was a tick between 2 and 2.8!
You're not the first ;)
there is also 2.2
On the cine version
it doesn't work that we'll, 2.8 gets you the sharpest stars
does anyone have a model for lens collar for samyang? i want to 3d print em
https://makerworld.com/en/models/950575
This one's also pretty cool
A Ring System for the 135mm Samyang, i tested it now for more than a Year and i am pretty happy with it.There is a BOM below, if u have any questions feel free to contact me. Item to be created:Samyang 135mm RingsQty to create:1 COMPONENTDESCRIPTIONBASE QTYCOST PER UNITHeat Inserts M6 L=10mm W=8mmInsert into the Bottom of the Rings2€0,33Heat ...
Currently
how do you attach a dew heater?
Love my iEXOS-100 💪. And just a 3d printed dovetail
won't the dovetail break?
coz when I tried using a plastic one I heard cracking sounds
the screw was pushing into it
Hasn't yet in over a year
the dovetail is included in this?
also where do you put a dew heater? coz the part where its supposed to go is not accesable due to the rings right
Enough room for the strap
Don't think so
The strap? Around the dew shield
oh ok thanks
can you send me a photo of your dovetail and where ypu got it from?
I think our rigs might be related
Cable management is proving to be real annoying on my rokinon rig. my dew strips have 6 feet of wire even though my powerbox is like 2 inches away.
Looking good. What camera and filters are you pairing?
2600MM Pro with Astronomik Filters
Dope. I'm not sure what camera yet myself...either 294MM-Pro or 1600MM-Pro. Both are petty similar.
I‘ve previously used the Rokinon with my 1600MM, and the combo doesn’t disappoint.
I'm sure either will deliver. Just need some clear skies. Astro Drought continues into 2025. 😭
Feel ya, had a grand total of 11 clear nights across 2024
Get a Ares M or something. IMX533 is a much nicer sensor, if i had to pick between your options it might be the 1600m
The 294 is a pain in the ass to work with.
The 1600 is just old and not very sensitive but the calibration issues arent as bad.
Why get when I Ready have.
I run 3 294s without issue.
The 294 is a downgrade from a 533.
Laughs in 47MP.
🎇
Should I get an autofocuser if I'm using OSC and not changing filters?
ya
I’ve been using a bahtinov mask and haven’t had any issues even though I keep it out for 6-8 hours a night. I found someone local to 3d print the mask for $20
I got a mask for mine. You say yours stays focused for 8 hours?
Yes, I check focus throughout the night but as long as I have the dew heater on “medium” I’m all good. Temperature drops down to 35 for me so it messes with the focus if I don’t have the dew heater on medium.
If I don’t mess with it, I usually don’t have to correct the focus for a few nights actually. But I still check with the mask at the beginning of each session.
So as long as you got a dew heater you don't really need to refocus?
Also I'm using an IMX571 camera. Big sensor. Needs and m48 for no vignetting, but the ZWO to canon filter drawer is only in m42. Is there a way to get an M48 version so I don't need flats for vignetting?
Yes at least from my experience and my set up
I have the same sensor (ASI2600mc pro) and I use flats and dark flats. I have a darks library and I use them even though I don’t need to. But you do need to use flats. I use a white shirt, point it to the light fixture in a room, and use Nina flat wizard.
I struggled to get the flats right for the exact sensor. Here’s bad flats after background extraction and good flats after background extraction
I have a way to take flats, I just wouldn't have to if there was an m48 for the canon adapter.
Is your rokinon for a canon?
yeah
But here's the thing, I do regular photography too, so sometimes that lens comes out of the rig if I need to use it as an actual 135mm lens.
So I'm not taking the back off.
This is how I have mine I use the filter drawer from Zwo and it was actually recommended by someone else here and it’s perfectly fine. I reach back focus with and without the filter in the filter drawer.
Enter the realm of seamless astrophotography with the ZWO Filter Drawer for EOS Lens—a compact powerhouse designed to elevate your celestial imaging game. This ingeniously crafted accessory integrates effortlessly with your EOS lens setup, offering a gateway to unparalleled versatility and precision.
Crafted for convenience and efficiency, th...
You can take the lens off within 30 seconds
Can't really do that 😦
The 294mm is def better than the 1600mm
I got exactly this, I just need one that has an m48 to begin with instead of an m42 that I have to step up to m48
Or I could just buy a flat panel and stop whining about vignettes and imaging circles.
I've always done sky flats. No problem.
don't u have it tho?
1600mm is dope cause you can get it for ~400$ on the used market, takes 1.25" filters. So cost to performance ratio is off the charts.
This
@slow tinsel But if you can find a 294mm for 600 I'd likely take it over a 1600mm.
If I hadn't bought the 1600mm yet
And was just starting to use mono
I have seen the 294mm for ~600 but its rare. It is regularly found in the 800-850 zone. It can still use 1.25" filter with a touch of vignetting (corrected with flats). I just cant get into the fov of the 533 (personal pref) so I dont follow its 2nd hand pricing, but a quick glance shows it being all over the place with ~800 seeming to fall in the middle. 294 is one of my favorite sensors, but Id still say the 1600mm is the bang for buck champion.
I've personally really grown fond of the square format but yeah it's too small
I wish there were some sensors of the newest generation that filled the gap between 533 and 571. This way we only have the older generation sensors
A new MFT sensor with Starvis II would be an instant buy for me.
This is what I've been saying, imagine something in between the 294's bin2 and bin1 resolution and backlit - no microlensing - and well depth matching the latest sensors... Would be neat to see that.
Itll never happen though, because Sony.
Will it fit on the Rokinon? Moravian G3-11000C Edition.
Color CCD? 
Haha
Can‘t really find a full frame sensor with equally big pixels in the same price class
so you kinda have to compromice
Ahh thought C was color possibly
Larger pixels do best with high focal lengths
Are you actually gonna use it with the Roki? 💀
No, that was just a joke. I‘ll put it onto a 10“ RC.
I got a big ol' SBIG 8300m that I seriously considered putting on my roki.
Only thing that stopped me was the canon ef adapter being ~$270
Just out of curiosity I think I‘m gonna put it on there at least once, even though it‘ll get pretty much square stars
what r ur eaf settings
Backfocus 100, step size 20
will try next clear night, thank you!
orion area has MGC data, do u own pixinsight?
no sadly, what is mgc?
multiscale gradient correction
ur data has badly corrected background, if u had pixinsight, mgc would be able to fix it
oo
yeah ia gree
all of my images have random splotches of colors aswell in the background
shouldi share the data ans someone could do it?
i guess so, is your data good tho?
i would get the image finished in terms of acquisition before asking processing favour
I won't be able to add more data anytime soon
so I might aswell process and finish it up
First 11 minutes on Orion last night with the roki. It's so cold out here in MI it's been hard to get data
Is this with a DSLR?
yup
You captured a good amount of Hydrogen up by the horsehead for a DSLR
Up to 33 minutes of data now and fixed my guiding + dithering setup
guys asi 585 mc pro with rokinon should be a good combination?
yeah, I‘d say so.
A minicam8 would probably be a better choice. Very budget-friendly mono option and same sensor
Will I be able to attach the roki to it?
Yes
With the fitting adapters
It might be tricky though. The minicam8 will consume ~31mm of back space leaving only 13mm left to play with until you reach 44mm. The minicam8 uses a a C to m48 adapter and I don't know how many mm that is. You may also need to remove the original bayonet from the Rokinon and install an m48 direct thread bayonet because even the zwo short EOS adapter is 17.5mm.
Yeah you'll need to replace the bayonet. It's not too expensive though
Lightweight Mono Rock'n On 135 is all set up and gtg.
qhy sells short ef bayonets for filterwheel fits
Although I have a dark "filter" in place, Wondering if I don't want to swap it out for ir pass.
Still 10mm and just visually, the C to m48 looks much more than 3mm.
All set.
Just a handful of subs, 1h 9m total exposure time. The swsa2i has happy with 180s exposures.
man that's soo good, what camera? i might buy a cam and I don't hav emuch hopes for the mono coz its hard to setup with roki and risky, I might opt for a standard cam from zwo
which one you got?
1600mm and svbony 5nm SHO. Easy as anything else to setup actually. Short EOS adapter and EFW.
Capable sensor. I have a color non cooled. I don't use it much but I don't have anything against it
I went with the the 1600 because they are so cheap used and I was putting together a kit as low cost as possible lol.
1600 is def capable as mazzif said, mine is still going strong.
what are some cool galaxies i can shoot with thw roki and an apsc chip now? i have done pinwheel, bodes, markarians, leo
m31, M33, M101, LMC, Leo Triplet, (M51 maybe)
remembering why I like the Rokin'On 135...
18 minutes of Ha
yeahh, I think i should get the qhy minicam 8 and figure out how to put a roki on it
all 2nd hand, this kit cost me about the same as the minicam8, but ill have the flexibility to change sensor
except for the filters, bought those new, but super affordable
almost 4h of Ha data
sheesh that's insane
iw the coma cluster worth it with the roki and apsc chip?
Im also on a 1600 and i wont upgrade until we get a suitable replacement for it. the 249 is trash
Both are 4hr Ha. One is star aligned and croped down to match the other. One is Chroma 3nm Ha, Other is Astrodon 5nm Ha. One is 1600mm Other is 294mm. Apparently, one is 'trash' lmao
The only camera that is trash is the one you pay too much for.
wow that's alot of details
but but. The 100s cheapest ever
Picked up a GTi for the Rock'n On for cheap. It will be a permanent widefield kit now.
Are you discarding the iexos?
Oh no way. My Sharpstar 61 and z81 ride on that regularly.
In fact, just didn't want to dismount from the iEXOS just to run the Rokinon
Wow isn't the z81 too big for it to handle?
Nope
The sturdy tripod definitely helps
My buddy abuses his pretty bad
And here are my current Roki Ha WIPs because why not. Need a ton more int on ALL of them
Yeah I was just saying I want to run the Rokinon more. Gonna this year
Diabolical
Such a neat focal length
Very delicious
Larger sensor would be nice xD
Thanks, the only one I hope to finish this spring is the Orion one though...
Also you are considerably less busy during galaxy season
I have considerably better weather 😁
I'm sure 😀
Maybe not. I dunno. Summer is better weather but shorter nights
Maybe only 3 or 4 hr of imagaging time
A night
Gonna run the noot on some galaxies mazzif?
Yeah cant really beat winter nights but sitting outside with a t-shirt is pretty neat (except fot the mosquitos)
That's... Rough ash.
Or the 151PHQ
Would be dope for Leo trio or marks chain
If only my seeing stays like this or somewhere close 
Would love to go after this guy
does that work well?
no way that's a roki
If it was cropped out a bit more then there's a fairly bright star that would have spikes. But otherwise yeah M1 doesn't produce many diffraction spikes for me either
that looks hella clean! would love to have a go at the data when you‘re finished.
Yeah sure! I'll send it to your grandchildren when it's finished
Send it directly to my great-grandchildren man, I know the weather in germany.
Haha. I might finish the Orion project before the white nights but the other ones probably in Autumn
No way that's insane
I've seen people criticising it even while being under its payload capacity
Is that the bigger version?
No
yeah, i was hesistant at buying it first coz onine people dont like this mount, but when i saw people on this server abusing it i got it instantly. 
there are direct, C to nikon F mount adapters available, can use that too right?
32mm tho
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not sure...youll have to do your own research. I dont use F mount lenses
but the minicam8 consumes ~31mm alone
quick search shows me Nikon F mount DSLRs is 46.5 mm. So subtract the 31mm of the MC8, leaves 15.5mm to make up with spacers and adapters
okay thx
for a little more flexabillity, Touptek offering up a combo mono 585 deal
https://www.touptekastro.com/products/atr585m?variant=49714669224248
I'd probably immediately sell the cam and get a 533
Even though the extra resolution and NIR sensitivity are nice
damn thanks, thats so good
i might just get that, and 3d print an adapter to connect roki with it
why tho?
i really think thats a good deal to get into mono isnt it?
with the qhy minicam 8, the adapters are weird and teh filters cant be upgraded later
Yeah it is. One reason is that it's upgradeable and the price difference between a 585 and 533 isn't that big
FOr how much do you think the cam sells?
At least 500€. I got my 533 mono new for 620€ incl. shipping so not that great of a difference. But the 585 is a perfectly capable sensor as well so everyone's personal choice
Just some test Ha data with the 1600mm riding on the GTi pulling 300s unguided. Performance was pretty poor but it cleaned up OK.
Seeing was 💩 last night. Very windy. I ran the Rokinon kit anyway till the clouds rolled in. Got about 4 hours of data total on SH2-273 (Cone Nebula/Christmas Tree region). If you pixel peep, also poor data. But its w/e.
Gonna move the Rokinon kit from the GTi to the iEXOS for superior performance.
This is the way
33 minute exposures. Made 3 of them. Each used a different f stop (2.0, 2.8, 4.0). Stacked
really good stuff
use msgr if you can though
contrast around m42 is ass
It's ass data 🤷
Was more an exercise for me to look at star shapes in f/2, 2.8 and 4. It's only 3 frames. Conditions were not really good for much more than testing.
wtf thats 3 frames??
u should do new nebula surveying
Well yeah, but they are 33 minute frames
dang wtf thats a pretty important bit of info
Prolly why I said it 1st
🤷
#1059854397301063740 message
Just dinking with framing. Single 10m exposure.
Juicy
I'm finding the 1600mm to be a pretty effective match with the Rock'n On 135
get it modded
I can't, thats my only camera atm
I'm saving up for a power tank so I can get to birtle 1 locations
all of these shot on my astromodded 6d
oh, did u have it done somewhere
or do you use any external filters?
I have the nikon z50 and it's very tough to modify thode mirrorless ones
yeah lifepixel
okay
nope no filters at all
ngl i think astromod helps with regular photography too, since it increases broadband SNR by around 0.5x
and it barely affects ur light curve, nudges the cameras red-side high level transmission just a few ten nm so it covers 656
should i cast a lead weight to put in place for my guider i dont even use?
I'm going to try using this vintage Access SQ 200mm lens with a Canon EOS adapter and try manual mode with a tracking mount to capture the Orion Nebula.
Has anyone tried using an old lens on a DSLR?
vic is awesome
the 2 sunset ones are shot at cape schanck, the rest are actually new zealand!
yeah i reckognized cape schanck
8 h WIP. Shot at low altitudes and through Ramstein Airbase's light dome (thanks Americans for polluting my skies
) so could've been way better
crazy ahh Ha
btw can u see the military flight practices from where u live? or too far
See them? I can nearly taste them
thats kinda cool tho
id love the photography
Fighter jets I see relatively seldomly but mostly Hercules
Nice F35 though
My grandparents were at the flight show disaster, fortunately not where the planes crashed
you mean avalon? or a different accident
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Running chicken is my newest one, great lens other than the fact that sometimes you get bad copies
I have to stop mine down to F4 to get decent performance, even then I get fringing and coma
roki does great on orion but the other ones look better here 🙂
What camera did you use? Any filters?
No filters and a ha modded Canon 70d
bortle 4
Nice! Awesome picture!!
Thanks
Prolly the first roki with a caa installed onto it
one shall ask why and I may answer with lazy
Why not wanderer astro rotator?
asiair useability (we wont talk about the uranus c)
Definitely but its just a little simpler for the go. The main setup uses NINA of course 😉
Fair
Hello All, I see here are a lot of experienced people a special with usage of Rokinon 135mm/f2 lens. Can you give me some open feedback about photos I attached, it was taken with mentioned Rokinon lens and total exposure time is 3h aperture at f2.0.
What do you think about star shapes, tracking accuracy and processing? 🙏
Rly good star shapes for a roki! You got very lucky, theres some star trailing so you might wanna lower ur exposure time
Id do anything to switch rokis
Hm, I think my star shapes affected by camera - accuracy of tracking, but I will not be able to improve it without going to real external star tracker. I'm using just tripod, Pentax K1-I and Rok135mmf2.0. Stars are tracked by camera it self, function called Astrotracer Type3. Camera take initial exposure, will analyse star trails in that image and then for all next exposures it will rotate,move to sides sensor to compensate the trailing. My standard exposure with it 30 sec and 12 shots. Maybe can reduce to 20 seconds.
Btw why you just do not sell your bad copy and buy other. You can buy new from few different webs and chose 1 best from few and next return to shop...
dont rly want to, my roki is very much usable js saying it cant compare to your one lol
Some of the shots
But i used a VERY tiny sensor so most bad star shapes are cropped off
Looks similar, but I use full frame and I crop ~ 20% because of field rotation. I'm too lazy to compensate for sky rotation. And what you use for tracking stars?
Btw very nice fotos.
You have better post processing.
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a tiny Star adventurer 2i, def worth getting a better mount tho
I thought to buy a Benro Polaris star tracker instead Pentax Astrotracer, should get better accuracy and following the target, so no need to reframe and auto go-to function is nice update. But not sure if this upgrade worse the costs...
Benro is not even a actual EQ mount, its alt az which is worse than EQ at tracking, and its much more expensive than the 2i.
I would get the 2i or the GTi
Looks good, also Rokinon 135mm but at f 3.5 or something like that quit strong spikes?
Seem like decent exposure time not much noise, but not aggressively stretched.
At f2.8
Now i use at F4 bc 2.8 has some horrible stars and big blue halos that i had to remove
Maybe you can try to use GraXpert it has deconvolution.
I use cosmic clarity bc graxpert rly like to hallucinate stars and artifacts
What do you guys think? About an hours worth of data of M16 and its surroundings at bottle 4, ZWO 2600 pro with Baader Neodymium filter. Not sure if I went crazy with the saturation
Theres some wierd gradienys
But yeah noise is to be expected for only 1hr
10hr bortle 7, ASI585MC Pro
The gradient is from sunrising, used pretty much all of the data for processing tests
Are there any ways to attach a canon EF rokinon 135 to an SBIG 8300m with the filter wheel?
SBIG themselves have an adapter but it's super expensive. If anyone else has an SBIG camera & SBIG filter wheel I'd love to learn how you got around that.
guys opinion on the imx 585 sensor with the roki?
Best combo ever
i love itt
could you share me some of your images?
I think ima get that then, I'm thinking if getting the touptek mono which comes with the filter wheel and filters
also unguided how many second exposures can you take?
On a crappy mount 5min
But thts with perfect Pa
Mona samyang is a beast j rly want jt
Single sub at f2 no filter bortle 7
I have the iexos
ok ima save up for the mono then
heres one mono image
A gallery on AstroBin.
this guy is insane with the roki
oh damnn yeahh
rn im saving up for a better mount and soon mono
I have some Highspeed baader f/2 SHO filters to sell if anyone is interested (EU)
would do some imaging at like f/4 for the stars, especially when imaging with the imx585
I use it at F4, the horsehead was F2, to test the snr I could grt
Once I get my dualband filters i might shoot F2.8-3.2
might need your filters in a year or so lol
did you go full f/2.0 with the mono narrowband filters?
I dont think he used those on his roki im not sure
Ive seen some people get almost perfect roki copies and they can use it at F2 with almost no abberations
thats what I got at f/2.0 with the imx585
some CA but pretty solid overall
damn
Is this blurxed?
I think so, yes
but I usually work only with correcting, so no sharpening
same
thats crazy
I fixed the tilt in F4
didn‘t know it was that much of a lottery
But the F2 CA is too much for me
Yeah
If they're still there, then sure (if you're from the EU)
F/2,4-2,8
im not
F2 was neither great nor terrible since I used it with a 533 but I stuck with f/2,4 for fainter stuff
Can I see some of your images?
Here's some Ha
And here
This is the only image I managed to finish. Around 3 h. It's just a crop
Been a while since I've seen an image from you now that I think about it
Still rockin the 135?
Yeah unfortunately I couldn't do much astro the last few months, even though the weather was fantastic
Heavy-heartedly sold it and put together this bad boy
Just testing it out for the first time. I seem to have some tilt but the unaffected corners seem to have pretty sharp stars. Testing the 7 nm Antlia Oiii filter on Polaris rn
My main concern is the mount. It's more than able to carry it but I'm far from having it dialed in
nice!
Thanks. Looking forward to some more pixinsight tutorials 😄
Maybe this week heh 
why are you so good at ap your astrobin profile is godly
Yeah ive seen some
But thank you, lots of patience and learning was involved 
What filters do you guys use with your rokinon? I currently use idas nbz filter and the baader moon and skyglow filter. Trying to figure out what other filters I should add to my setup.
Im planning to get the alp t ha oiii and sii hb
And gonna sell those once im ready to move onto mono
I had the Sii hb, never used it. Sii is just faint.
Uv ir cut, and a haoiii dualband.
Hmm the nbz is like a 10-12nm dualband. +1 for just a uv/ir cut. Its better than the baader with a astrocam.
the broadband filters cut too much for the sensitive cameras for my taste. Unless you know all the lighting is sodium
It says in his Insta description that he's located in the Sonoran desert which makes the LP filters even more useless. Just stick to a simple uvir cut and your NBZ in my opionion
Yep
Uvir 24/7 unless moon is over like 50%
I use the baader moonglow filter during full moon nights, it makes a huge difference. I’ve been using the NBZ filter for the last few weeks and really taking advantage of moonless nights.
Thank you all!
You use the NBZ during moonless nights? I think the most reasonable way to go about it would be to use the NBZ during moon and moonless if you have to and a uvir cut during moonless nights. Also, if you desperately need broadband during Moon then use the moonfilter, even though these aren't ideal
I got the NBZ filter about a month back, and I had my RHO project going on already. It didn’t make sense to use the NBZ filter for that project, but I was curious, so I tested it with RHO anyway. Since then, I’ve been imaging Hii regions, and the NBZ filter has been quite helpful. It’s a new moon here, so I have all the dark skies. But I’m going to go over all the objects without the NBZ filter and see how that turns out.
Yes the NBZ is great for what it does (I had two of them). During moon you can use it for Ha and discard the Oiii channel and during little to no moon you can use both
Has anyone here paired the rokinon with the 585 sensor?
@hazy copper did that quite masterfully
Awesome! Thank you!!!!!
Me
I love the FOV
Oh nice! How long have you been using this set up for?
Start of 2025 i got into AP
But i had a dob and used it for a long time before i got this
The dark nebula parts left middle are really good
thank ❤️
uh
its the opposite of clear
no shot thats with a roki
Why wouldn't it be?
sharing to phone lol
newest one
HaRGB?
Would you guys recommend an sv220 for the samy at f2.8 (Am not paying for those preshifted ones they expensive)
HaOiiiRGB
Ha blend looks pretty good. I failed with that
what filter ?
ALP-T 5nm highspeed
ty, it was quite hard to get it right
You want to stop down to F4.
Also looking at your gear, I hope you are getting an astrocam?
Yea I am
yo whats the best roki model for most convenient backfocus? not one of the mirrorless ones i assume
looks like canon ef has the most but it sucks caus i have a sony e 😢
nikon has a good deal rn tho
Canon, then screw mount mod it.
The Nikon can probably be modded too. I really should look into to it myself. But the adapter doesn’t exist.
Id get as Canon EF and a EF to E mount adapter. Who know's if you go astrocam later and then you are not stuck with a mirrorless mount roki.
For a decently tight fitting EF - E adapter, maybe K&F pro model with the orange band, it has a tighter tolerance
Fotodiox pro if they make one, the more expensive models are really tight fit
Mirrorless cameras aren't only revolutionary because of their compact size; they're even more versatile for mounting lenses than their full-sized counterparts! Foodoir offers strong support for mirrorless camera platforms with hundreds of options for mounting both modern and vintage lenses. Our a...
yea this has a arca swiss foot
yeah sorry i meant to say i want to use with with my 533mc rn
but the adapter is a good idea if i want to use it with my sony camera
ZWO filter drawer it is then 
get the canon ef one and do what oakley said your svbony filter drawer work just fine
hey so im using an apsc sensor with the samyang, with the nina direct guider, how many pixels should I dither?
I do 12px ( apsc sized sensor )
i do 15
Dayum looks awesome
f3 has its benefits
WIsh I was in F3 🙁 I am F5.6 at 140mm
The framing is SOOOO nice
Hey guys I am looking to connect my samyang to an ATR585C. Does anyone have experience with the Touptek ef to m42 adapter. Do you have any other recommendations
is this unmodified?
emission looks so weak for allat dust
looks nice tho
asi585mc pro
light pollution
Thats interesting, I never thought about this - given you are imaging in full broadband without any filter, shouldn't light pollution affect reflection (dust) and emission nebulas in the same way?
Yes, this is how the region looks, i didnt use any masking so the brightness levels are pretty realistic
im trying to buy a roki right now i found a hella good used deal
waiting for the guy to send me star samples
What's a Hella good deal look like?
400 USD for the roki, astrodymium ring kit w eaf mount and rails, and zwo filter drawer for canon mount
all stuff i would need to get anyways
solid
i also found a killer deal on an msm nomad for widefield stuff but the ad is old and the guy isnt responding 😭
yo, the guy sent me a sample photo. is this good performance for wide open on a 533 sensor?
Is this blurxed?
@nocturne pagoda@hazy copper @grave marten
no
It's a very very good copy if you ask me
congrats on tp for your tarantula, its so so good
This is miles better than my samyang 😞
ty
good news for me i guess lol
any other questions i should ask the guy before i go thru?
that was a narrowband sub tell him to show u a broadband sub bc narrowband often hides some problems
he only used it once thats his only shot lol
ask for the fits and not a screen shot
yeah it was a raw tiff and i put in in pix to examine
the pic itself is kinda dookie and has a lot of artifcats lol
what kind of problems?
Fringing, my roki has this problem but it is fixable by using an uv it cut filter that cuts off more blue, like the Astronomik L3 is a good choice
that doesnt affect reflection neb?
It affects all stars
Blue stars the most
I might have an example
bit like this (very bad fringing)
I shoot my broadband at f4 to avoid most of the fringing
and there are processing methods to kinda remove them
does blurx help at all
even with using the L3 filt?
I dont have it, i plan to buy it
My uv cut filter cuts at 400nm while the l3 cuts at 450nm which should get rig of like 80% of the fronge for me
but alot of ppl dont even get fringe so i think i js got unlucky
Hampered by cloud, but still took the shot
i was doing sports photography with my roki today
i'm a human autofocuser its crazy
im just crazy good at nailing focus on my roki for sports where the subjects are characteristically moving very fast
i think i had like a 1-3% loss rate due to bad focus which is better than my autofocus lenses are sometimes
Nice, did you photograph a chess tournament?
is this 585? fire framing
yea ty
doing this tho
2 panels of narrowabnd so far
only 1 hour per panel
Man I forget how cropped a 585 is
the aperture ring feels pretty clacky and cheap is tht normal
nope. soccer game
i'm blown away by how good my focus was that day
Is there a 135 for Nikon f?
i believe there is
using the roki at b1 tn!
GET A TRACKER FIRST
also, any roki users use high speed filters like the idas nbz or optologn L para? need recommendations
I use the alpt highspeed duoband but its wayy too expensive
good thing it doesnt halo at all
i mean its only 100 more than the nbz and the L para, which are already 300. also fwhm of 5nm is half of the others which makes it tempting
Used the nbz, I liked it
Make sure to get the 2mm thick version though
they have different thicknesses?
what difference does it make
actually they have a 36mm version that is the same price as the nbz and para, but its unmounted which idk what that means tbh
With uncounted filters you don’t have the cage of the filter which can be screwed in
It’s useful for filter wheels
this guy is trying to sell me a filter with this much haloing
There's the original with 2,5mm and a new one (NBZ II) with 2mm. This is a way more common thickness and allows you to use a uvir cut filter that also has 2mm. This way your backfocus shouldn't change all that much. Of course production tolerances exist and the Roki is very sensitive to change of backfocus
😭
Yes, I have one
I envy you lucky bastards with good copies of the roki 
wdym 😭
wdym 😭
i got my lemon samyang fixed under warranty 
My warranty ended a few weeks ago
Plus I bought it from mpb
What else would i mean 😭
ive been searching and searching for a used highspeed dnb filter... ill just buy one new
idaz nbz ii seems good
I don't use hi speed, just regular. But I also use a step down ring. results are excellent though
yeah i could try my sv220 but id be throwing away a lot of signal in the f2-f3 area
left is a 120s sub at f3.2 and right is at f2
At some point someone sent like a cheap circle EL panel from AliExpress do you guys have the link. Am looking to make a cheap motorised flat panel at some point for the samy
poor stars :(
You have a 533? I wouldn’t. Sell it and get a minicam 8 or Touptek 585 mono bundle.
im waiting a year to save from my college job to get a mono imx571 and good filters
for now i think a highspeed dnb is a relatively cheap investment to have for a year, then i could resell it for little loss
many times when i shoot a target i feel constrained by the fov of the 533, so i dont think i would be happy with the 585. im young and have lots of time to get into astro so might as well stick to the 533mc until i can splurge on an apsc mono system, no rush
also... i have asiair 😅
Fair
Although I wouldn’t say fov is an issue. You can do a 1x2 mosaic and still improve your image quality significantly.
indeed but the tradeoff is time
Nah time taken is still less due to the increased efficiency of mono
even by 2x? difference in QE is just like 10% or so right
The bayer matrix cuts out like 75% of blue and red signal. And 50% of green.
So it’s approximately 3-4x as efficient. Plus your colours will be much better with mono.
but this is compensated by osc capturing everything at once right?
eg, 4 hours on osc is like 1 hour on red, 1 on blue, and 2 on green, so doing that same split on mono should be equivalent (ignoring QE and other stuff, just talking about bayer matrix)
Kinda. But why would you want 2 hours green? The bigger problem is when doing narrowband.
yes very true
now im really considering the 585 bundle and selling my asiair for a stellavita or smth lol
I wouldn’t say I regret my 533 and dualband filter purchase because I got it for 50% off and the 585 wasn’t really a thing at the time. If I bought it now it would be a waste of money.
Glad I never bought an asiair though
yeah i didnt know the 585 bundle was a thing
Ha is OP
is the roki focus sensitive to temperature
bouta have my first night w it so should i set the autofocus to every 2c or something
from my experience its not that sensitive
https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-samyang-lens-to-m48-adapter.html
is this a good solution to tilt in my lens? @hazy copper whatchu think
it replaces the bayonet itself
its pretty bad 😭
the bayonet causes this tilt?
I have some tilt or aberration issue on one side of my image perhaps this is the reason
yeah its a known issue apparently
the reviews on this items say its good for fixing tilt, sucks the shipping doubled the price lol
Yes it is. But not hugely better than a tuned up bayonet.
Just a nice flat shim. Aluminium foil
There are also 3d prints for the bayonet replacement m48 thread adapter if you 3d print
ill try some testing tonight and if i can get a flat field ill return the m48 bayonet replacement
i dont trust my unis PLA
I made my own. It certainly gets rid of basically all tilt.
I wouldn’t trust anything tbh. Screws are too small and the lens is pretty heavy. Plus even a few microns of warping is noticeable as you know
Here’s the one I made
I mean its all in a caddy, so its not like anything is just hanging off it.
Just a 1.25 to 2” adapter with some minor changes on the lathe and holes drilled.
I would personally get one from jlccnc before I used a printed one.
oh sick, did foil not do it for ya lol
do you mean more back focus? why less
how did you secure it to the bayonet?
It just sat there
good ol friction
So I can eventually fit a rotator in, and filter wheel.
Yeah the idea is it barely compresses.
how did you go about making it urself? the m48 replacement i linked earlier says it also has a backfocus of 44mm, not any more than normal
This adapter. Turned the 2” part down and the inside out a lil.
Turned the mating faces flat
oh nice
Drilled and countersunk holes to match the screw layout
ive gotta try something like that, im machine shop certified at my uni but i havent been in a while so i kinda forgot stuff 😅
This is Nikon specific though. The canon is slightly different but should still work.
It was super easy to make. All the important stuff was already made
It is m42 not m48 but it doesn’t matter at all.
i wonder why the tape didnt work? it should be the right thickness
What’s up with that bunching up at 2 o’clock?
i think that was after i tookit off and put it on a bunch of times to try and see what was up
The lens itself could be slightly tilted but I wouldn’t imagine the tape would be smooth. The difference thicknesses will compress differently.
i hope not, the sample images from the guy who i bought it from looked very good, and it was packaged well
btw does this mean that the top left corner of the sensor is farther from the OTA than the other corners?
or other way
ill try tape and foil again, but the ef adapter is already pretty tough to get on so i wonder if its even that
as in theres a lot of friction to twist it on in the first place
Judging by your corners I’d say too close.
tried my best but it got a little wrinkled 😓
foil didnt help :(
Rip, maybe it’s the camera
btw what do the numbers on the tiltanalysis mean? i get lower with the foil/tape
Means it’s better focused
oh foil helps with that i guess
maybe i need a couple spacers
def not the camera, i rotated it and the coma is still on the same corner on the sky
not same camera corner
after an hour of putting tape in various places im finally getting better results LOL
I'm thinking of doing this aswell, considering 55mm baxkfocus didn't focus on the redcat I assume it won't for roki aswell
just gonna accept the shitty field until the m48 adapter comes
you got that file?
This adapter requires removing the whole back of the lens. Everything behind the aperture ring needs to be disassembled. There is a metal ring that attaches to all different mounts and this adapter attaches to the same ring.Printing with layer height 0.1mm should suffice for a good M48 thread. I printed with PC+CF. and got good result. PETG may ...
im also getting the flange replaced bc why not, jlc has good coupons right now
https://www.cloudynights.com/forums/topic/969814-my-attempt-at-strengthening-the-mounting-flange-of-rokinon-1352-canon-ef/
I took the back off and I accidentally lifted the aperature ring
the aperature click ball is gone
fell in there
nah its fine I think i got a replacement somewhere
whats jlc?
I was thinking of converting my sony e mount into canon
do you know where i can find canon bayonets?
custom manufacturing company
even a printable model too
ohh cool
shipping is a lil expensive plus there are customs tax so it kinda sucks now compared to what the guy in the forum got
also do you know what the backfocus is beyond the point where all models are the same?
wdym?
the part above the aperature ring
where you attatch this
oh ok 49.9
my cost for the jlc cnc metal flange LOL
It's a creative way to get around tax.
damn kinda cheap
after the discount yea
i can only find files for adapters that replace the entire back, not just the bayonet. do u have it?
FLO emailed me after i order this and told me i was gonna get wrecked by tariffs lol, so ill probably cancel and find another solution
i found a petg-cf version on etsy which i doubt would get tariffed
Yeah it's weird. Wonder if they got taken down for infringement or something. Last time I seen them was a couple if not more years ago. I have one of the machined metal ones somewhere . I don't use it because I still use the lens on my dslr. If I can find it I'll let you know.
could only find this very basic drawing from the etsy listing, i might try to make it myself in the unis machine shop
If you guys find a solution to this please share cause am getting a cooled cam to use with my samy and currently with my DSLR I get lots of tilt
i just went ahead with the purchase from flo for the m48 adapter
tariffs can eat my ahh
blurx will be my savior until this adapter and tilt plate ship
Some Rock'n On 135 data with fat 1600mm pixels
goodness
1600mm pixels phat? 
Also, I will soon be putting together a similar rig with my 1600mm. What's your imaging train look like?
I assume I just need the Canon EF to M42 for the 1.25/31mm EFW's from ZWO?
compared to the 2.3 of the 294mm yeah, 3.8 is kinda fat.
I tried 3 and they were all lemons
😭
wdym
What I mean is the three of them had some corners that were really bad. Bloated and very deformed stars. In two of the units they were opposite corners so it was not tilt. The third one had more like a tilt pattern on it so I could maybe have tried to save it, but I decided to send them back to Amazon
Stick another CC behind it, just to be sure
yes i was thinking of adding a reducer and a 3x barlow
more glass = better because a triplet is better than a doublet

is this amt of blue haloing normal wide open w uv ir vut?
If its OSC and a mediocre copy I'd imagine so.
its a pain to deal with so i guess ill just stop up to 2.4 or 2.8 for broadband lol
The qc of this lens is crap. If you get a good copy it is a damn great lens, but it is a gamble
That’s shockingly bad, what FL do they plate solve too?
Direction of most unfocused corner to the other most unfocused corner seem quite similar between the two, this might be tilt that could possibly be fixed.
tonight i discovered that neither my eaf nor my camera cooler works in -10c weather

Like 14 F, man I would expect my shit to work at 14 F ngl.
Lmao I just looked and it's 14 F right this minute.
Everything is working as it should.
the fan was making very funky noises and vibrations and the EAF was lagging out horribly, i would press it once and it would spin all the way to one end
the camera is only rated down to -5c
maybe partly, but not fully. In the first image the panels that are best focussed are the bottom center, center and upper right, on the second image bottom left, left, center, and upper center are ok. In that second one, also the upper left and bottom right show the typical pattern of being to close the lens to the sensor and therefore 'overcorrecting'. That cannot be tilt in my opinion, for tilt you would expect to have opposite effects, elongated radially in one, elongated circularly in the opposite direction.
They were just horrid copies. I even got a third one and tested it daily with two different cameras and it was pretty bad on the corners, so I didn't even bother and also went back. So three lemons.
This is pique my interest, 3 lemons is one hell of a run of bad luck. They all plate solved correctly?
What do you mean with plate solved. This was a few years ago and I was not really plate solving back then.
I see alot of the time the bayonets are an issue I'm in the process of converting mine to use a shorter and new bayonet
my Sony e mount one has a pretty iffy design that looks like it's quite susceptible to tilt and the results definitely show it
I've said on a few occasions that after all these considerations...something like the fma135 or fma180 pro makes more sense. You get standard mounting solutions, standard filter solutions. Unless you get the lottery and hit the F/2 jackpot.
got a pretty bad copy but with some blurxterminator and processing its still very usable
fair
never knew qc was THIS bad
thought it was like 1/10 are bad but now it seems 1/10 are the good models people are considering when talking about its quality
still awesome details
can't you do some processing on those stars to kill the blue?
are you using a uv/ir cut also?
I've owned several without a single issue. Additionally I own the 14, 50 and 85mm variants without issue
tried, its very possiblr
yes but i found that you need a uv ir cut / L filter that cuts out more blue to remove the fringing
the Antlia L filter is great for that
how does this affect reflection nebula?
wont affect it
Helps in my book
i need one then lol
do you mean astronomik?
do you use the L3 filter?
or L2 or smth
L3 should also work
no Antlia
the luminance filters are the same as uv ir cut filters
is that image with the antlia L?
thats with a crappy zwo uv ir cut filter
it doesnt cut much blue which is why you see the fringing
ohhh ok nice i was worried it would still be that bad with the antlia l
my copy gets crazy fringing it kind of ruins my broadband data lol, thanks for the rec

just to be sure this is the correct filter? https://starizona.com/products/copy-of-antlia-v-series-l-filter-2
yeah should work good
my one cuts the uv at 400nm which is not enough for my roki
the antlia cuts at almost 450nm
i get ts 💔
looks more like 430 ish from the graph
still good
bet bet
is there a way to estimate the wavelength of light with photometry in pix or something? would be nice to see
maybe i can just take the hex code and match it
idk
im getting pretty close to 450nm, but this is very unscientific and also probably depends on how well the spcc did lol
did some other random spots and got around 400-450
omw to buy a slit mask 
if the L3 takes care of most of it then the antlia L probably takes it even further
first clear night in a while to test the tilt, turns out the m48 thread adapter did not fix anything, but fortunately i also bought a tilt plate for the 533. but then unfortunately, i could not get the backfocus or tilt to work out after 2 hours so i gave up
📈📉📈📉
Rokinon with a 2600mc pro. On a AM3 mount with asiair and all the fixings. Got about 25-30hrs. It's amazing the dust that shows up
damn got any crops?
Crops?
No, sorry I don't.
interesting background color
Anyone know why A rokinon 135 with step down rings might have an X diffraction spike?
I'm using step down rings to avoid big diffraction spikes, but that seems to produce inverted spikes.
Could it be the threads on the inside of the innermost ring?
i gt those i think its some kind of obstruction in the tube
The weird thing is they only appeared after I bought step down rings.
~1hr raw live stacked data with Rokinon and 2600MC. No post.
1hr of narrowband on vela
how about 20
40
20 narrowband 20 broadband
@nocturne pagoda fancy ass case 💀
felt and magnetic
i also got an everyday astronaut sticker for some reason??
lol
just a better uv ir cut since i get blue haloes with the roki with the cheap zwo uvir
Does it have a tighter UV cut off than your previous filter?
up to 12hrs of narrowband
damnnnnnn
i spent 8 hours last night and 5 hours just now trying to fix the tilt problems with my lens
literally just fiddling with the tilt plate in the cold
im gonna buy a new one thru amazon and if its better then ill return the old one because holy balls this is cooked
also the zwo tilt plate is so ASS because you have to unscrew the whole camera off to change the tilt and put it back on and replug in everything
ridiculous that they made it the same exact diameter as the camera 😭 every other tilt plate sticks out so u can adjust it, huge oversight tbh
How would a canon 600d paired with one of these generally work out?
its a stock 600d so i question whether I'd need any UV-IR cut filter or some LP filter
anything I should consider before investing in this lense?
a stock camera already cuts off uv and ir. Broadband lightpollution filters is not something id recommend ever
it just cuts off signal around the sodium lights bandpass so the images you get are less bright
Can exposre for longer in areas with alot of those oldschool streetlights. It still cuts signal out though
best filters are in ur car to go to a darksite
I live in a relatively low light polluted area anyway
Nice, it only makes sense to shoot broadband in low lightpollution. When you think a filter is needed for that, the area is not suitable for the target anyway 😄
i mean dolphin head potentially
ig i could look into potentially astro modding my camera n the near future
Yes a duoband filter for emission nebulae is good
You'd want a modified cam for that yea
Better off getting a new camera atp.
that's true
I might see what I can achieve with stock for now
mmm
These colours are tickling my brain
WOW thats a steal
12hrs NB 6hrs RGB


