#Rokinon/Samyang 135mm discussion
1 messages · Page 8 of 1
I'm one of you guys. x)
What's a dovetail
I need to whoop your ass
The metal plate that mounts dovetail rings or a optical tube onto a mounthead
What's a dovetail ring
Like an attachment rail?
You mean tube/OTA rings?
Yee thems
Basically yeah
Dan my boy from another server don't worry lol
yup
Are there any flatteners/reducers for the roki 135? (silly question I know)
I'm nitpicking, but if there's a way to fix this glare I'm all ears.
You could try to clone stamp it out of existence in PI
Would closing up the aperture help? That was shot on F4. 60" iso200
closing the aperture kind of defeats the purpose of the roki imo
even f4, id try shooting af f2.8
could be caused by internal reflections, easiest source to test will be the dew shield
They are flares from the stars themselfs so it wouldn't help.
Yes, they are much better than mine.
Let’s go brand new Lamborghini the cop via
First non cursed squid nebula I’ve seen
what about jimmys
Haven’t seen it
Why is it normally cursed?
squid is basiclly painted in, in most images
found it #247347265226801153 message
Should I get it
Yes
Very excited to do it this summer, likely will be my main project
I'm very excited for the dragon in Sadr
Tried it over the summer with my lenhance, kinda mixed results ngl
Looks good
I'm gonna do a big mosaic of it
another lil guy from the roki
First light with my rokinon 50mm (yes I'm an impostor)/224mc, only 1 hour under the smoke of the chemney and quick process in ps only but I'm pretty happy
i love this little crop using @lone tendon 's composition
Nice
the resolution is just a bit dead cuz 50x crop
Shot through cheminey smoke and I had to deal with strange strong patterns on most of the frames so it's by no means a great shot but the idea is there
couldn't you just move 10 feet
Just wanted to push exposure time to the limits.
Stock Canon T6 (1300d)
Roki 135 (duh)
Ioptron Skyguider Pro
ZWO 120mm cam & 30mm guidescope
13 x 300s lights
12 x 300s darks
iso 100
6 day moon
Looking good!
I highly recommend you get a whole lot more data, and you really don't need darks either
NGC 7822 (the question mark nebula) is such a nice fit for this lens! I know the processing I've done is bad, but the starless version shows better the extent of the nebula. 60mins with the Samyang 135mm @f/2 and an unmodified Olympus E-PL5. Bortle 3-4 sky.
Oh I will. I wasn't even intending to take any photos that night and just wanted to set up my guide camera. Got the thing up so fast I had an hour to kill.
roki :))))
What stop do you guys use? I've been using f/4
Is this some sort of upgraded version?
I mean at that f ratio it's basically a small telescope, right?
(I calculated that the minimum aperture for that f ratio is 75mm)
Oh my god I watched some lens reviews say that the image quality is insane.
When I get a full frame camera I'm definetly buying this
yeah it has auto focus, I think they make it for Sony only
meaning it is useless
af is not needed for ap and an extra like 2 mm of aperture is not gonna help
autofocus is not useless for AP as long as it’s used with AP software
most camera lenses dont support af control from pcs
im pretty sure some canon cameras and lenses actually support AF though
yeah, the sigma 135mm would probably be better than that upgraded roki too
yeah I guess sony AF is finicky with AP software
canon works well though
There is a NINA plugin for canon AF
https://github.com/rennmaus-coder/Camera-Lens-AF
Yeah ik thats what im talking about
yeah theres a nina plugin with using a canon dslr + af lens
praying jesus that someone would stock some astromechanics controllers 🙏
the lens focus motors are super accurate and fast for a vcurve
I love 2!!!
I heard 2 can be hard to focus
And that stars bloat more on 2
Is that true?
You take stars and nebulosity separately?
What size / brand of filters fit the 135? Regular camera filters, like diffusion.
77mm on the rokinon website
Buy 135mm F2.0 Full Frame Telephoto at Rokinon Lenses! The Rokinon 135mm F2.0 ED UMC Lens is a manual focus telephoto prime lens useful for portraiture and most telephoto applications. Its fast f/2.0 maximum aperture is effective in low light and enables shallow depth of field control. With a rounded 9-blade diaphragm, shallow depth of field ima...
Lists it at 600 so idk
Guys is this measurement right?
I'd have to check myself after unpacking things, but there's also stls of the mask available online already
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2168672
This is what I printed and used for a while
This is a completely rewritten version of my Bahtinov mask (originally by Ryoko / brentb) which I had modified for the great Samyang 135mm F/2 lens some time ago. I implemented a pretty narrow pattern (0.8mm) for a large diffraction pattern.
See the three focus screenshots for the working principle:
Left: intrafocal, Middle: focal, Right: extraf...
Thats for the lens hood right?
Yup
Printing! 
Rock'n On 135 gone mono.
I am sure
3.6 bin1
That's probably fine, we can always down/upsample. There's a group of us with rokis who work on big collaborative projects (our next one should be out soon!) If you're interested in joining, lmk and I can send you the link
its fine, i mean, people shoot on DSLR with fatter pixels so...
Yeah, my only concern is how well it will it will combine with other data (our images are based around the 533/571). Nothing wrong with big pixels at all.
Once again just lmk, I'm sure we can make it work
my original plan was a for a dual 135/IMX571 OSC since I have a pair. (ignore the 585 dust covers) one with Ha/OIII the other Sii/Hb. But just havent had the time or the skies to dink with it.
you can do the math on resample fwiw
and match the resolutions
Mhm, I'm assuming downsampling would work. My only concern is that it could decrease the overall sharpness but I doubt it would be significant if that happened at all.
Most our targets are big and faint. Not very sharp. If he Bin2d it would be ok enough. Bin 1 should be slightly sharper.
this would be sick
does anyone have a backspacing plan for a 44/44.5mm backfocus + mono setup (roki 135 + 1600mm)? @civic mirage perhaps
Depends on the cam. I figured one out for touptek 571
i might need some m54 shims though. Gotta get the aliexpress set
These are amazing got lens backfocus shimming
They sell a set of 9 in T2, m48 or m54
Well, I archived it once before but I cant really remember the setup…
For the smaller housing zwo cams with the removable 11mm t2 piece there is a setup
And the bigger cams have a different one
#1059854397301063740 message
How do you blow out the core at 135mm enough to warrant hdr?
F/2 120s gain 220
Show linear
I don't have any access ti my subs, I'm imaging right now
This has both of my stacks
Can’t you just turn off autostretch in nina
Your normal subs
Don't have access to them right now sorryz
Ight
Will ping you to a screenshot
Show hdr then maybe
Debayering?
How long are hdr subs
Yeah just linear rgb
Bet
I doubt you need to hdr given your settings. Bright stars might be blown but I don’t think galaxy is
I concur with lmc. You're probably using an intense stretch to bring out the ifn, thus clipping the galaxies
Probably yeah
Best way to avoid this is with masks or an hdr script
Rockingflyer said it was tricky too
I think this is with no processes in GHS
Spcc (maybe?) Dbe and starnet were used though

Nooooo
Can someone tell me it this look ready? Will I have focus problems?
How about Backfocus?
What's your lens's mount?
I didn't had enough backfocus with my Sony E rokinon but simply putting an UV/IR cut (which is nice to have for these lenses anyway) fixed it
What did you adapt it with?
A 3d printed adapter
Works pretty well for a cheap pla thing
But I'll print another one that has an M42 thread, right now the filter is floating around between the ccamera and the lens 
Schrödinger's filter
40 minutes of Heart and Soul Nebula with the 135mm Samyang with an unmodified Olympus E-PL5. Even the Maffei galaxies are visible to the left of the Heart Nebula. Edited with DSS and SIRIL with starnet++.
Info? This is amazing
🔭 Rokinon 135mm
📷 ASI294MC-Pro
🔴/🔵 Antlia ALP-T Ha/Oiii Duoband
⏱️ 3.8h
you 10000000% should get some bb data on this. this is some really deep ha data
if the #cloudocalypse ever ends...
fair point lmao
I might get a break in it tomorrow 
Aside from that, next week so far looms promising
Comet Pons-Brooks yesterday with the Samyang. 16.5 minutes in total from a Bortle 4 location.
Is this full fov of the 135mm or cropped?
How big sensor?
It is a M4/3 censor. I have the celestial coordinates grid to get a better idea of the size of the comet and its size.
Yeah i was planning to use a 300mm lens and 1” sensor so i might need to swap the optic
135 or 200mm i guess
With that focal length you will get a nice view of the coma and brightest portion of the tail.
Still a nice frame
Look how it looks with a framing close to your set up #1160693147521777715 message
Yeah ill do some measuring as i assemble my OTA tonight
Faster 200mm f2.8 lens is tempting
Sup fellas I got me a pretty cheap idas nbz but it comes with a rasa di filter holder. Now that does work with the roki but to take broadband data I always have to diasassemble the entire image train and readjust backfocus and thats a pain in the bum.
I was wondering if any of you knew a way to remount the idas nbz (diameter: 49 mm, thickness: 2,5mm) into a standard mount so I can use it in a filter drawer with a uv/ir cut?
I couldnt find a mount that holds 49mm filters as of yet, but I thought that y'all know better
Isn't idas nbz a 2" filter?
I have this, got it rather cheap used
It mentions that the filter drawer has M42 connections.
Just curious, for how much did you get it? I'm thinking of buying one as well but can't pay the full price
I think I got it for 300+ €. It was unused so I think that was a decent deal
Yes it does, maybe read my first message again
Can't you use the filter drawer without a filter in it?
You can't change filters?
I'd have to have a camera with an inbuilt uv/ir cut filter and would have to tape the gap and readjust back focus by about 1mm
If i remember right. The filter glass in this wont fit a 2” filter cell frame
if you buy a blank cell to make it 2”
Thinl they are using the 50 - 52mm filter stock for these or something
Yeah the TS ones definitely don't fit
And the 49mm will fit? I'll take another look
Do you need a nbz in particular? I have one ill part ways with
im swapping from osc to mono.
i got the f2 and slower version
Also an nbz or?
yeah
Shot you a pm
i think now they make a UHS version for like f1.4 lenses and a nbz EX for other OTA’s
Lads is there any narrowband target that is more or less bright we can image around this time of the year in northern skies?
heart & soul and maybe elephants trunk
depends what time are you imaging. Cygnus area is rising past midnight to decent height
Yeah northern targets are in a light dome but I might give em a shot
alpha camelopardalis if north enough
Jellyfish Nebula for a few hours after sunset
Thanks for the suggestions
Also I would like to direct your attention to this
https://discord.com/channels/794642864218439681/1222596367705444442
Roki users get a discount 😀
guys I'm planning on getting a roki 135 and the nikon z50 with an adapter, will the adapter cause problems? I'm in need of serious help plz

a simple adapter like this should work right? 
Any recommendations for an adapter to hook up my astrocam? It uses M48 not M42
If your lens has a canon mount I'd recommend this https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-samyang-lens-to-m48-adapter.html
If not, then a 3d printed version from thinkable creations https://www.etsy.com/de/listing/1550779704/m42-adapter-fur-color-astronomie-kameras?click_key=a67d5267cbd7722ebd0c1e45c19627d0f4089786%3A1550779704&click_sum=8c10393f&ref=shop_home_active_6&pro=1&sts=1
Or you get a fitting adapter according to your lens mount, from ZWO for example
o.pò
Any way to attach this without needing to take the canon mount off the lens?
As I said, search zwo canon eos adapters on google, you'll find a lot
Some have an integrated filter drawer
Thank you 🫡
just got my samyang
here are some images i took with it
moon the milkyway core is 2 sec exposures
and the leo triplet is 16 minutes at b6
👀
I’m excited for summerrrr
weird seasons
and basically tis already Rho season
yeah has been for a while
but nows when you can start getting full night runs on it
(in 'straya)
Southern Hemisphere is cheating
turn the earth upside down
our galaxy selection is dogshit tho
Yeah, kind of
tf u mean
which
milkyway ??
and if u mean centaurus A, its not visible to the naked eye unless you have EXCEPTIONAL vision and are in a bortle 1
oh wait im a dumbass
magellanics oops
these things?
i revoke my previous statements mb
i guess they're dwarf galaxies but thats besides the point
😅
47 tuc is indeed a cool glob
damn southerners with their several easy naked eye globs
omega cen
i meant to reply to @chilly ingot btw
oh ye that big ol thing
omega cen is kinda elliptical lookin so its easy to distinguish
i might shoot tonight if weather good
and if im not aurora chasing still
nvm the wsa enlil updated and doesnt look like anythings coming this way
G3 moment 
4am iirc
sadly no
i slept thru :(
#turntheworldupsidedown
you need space night vision 💀 exceptional eyrs won't do it
Don't you have sculptor?
Love that galaxy
Not naked eye though of course
It’s been clear nonstop lately!
Im planning to goto Pyramid Tuesday night (new moon)
first finished image with 135 f2 || @chilly ingot ||
I am unfortunately ill right now, otherwise I would’ve been up there for the past week with my aunt
Well hopefully you feel better soon. If you do, reach out at we can meet up for a shoot. Friday and Saturday looking decent cloud/seeing wise but have a touch of moon.
I’m almost done with my 100 hour SVX first light
Hell yeah. ping me when you share the final
Should get to finishing the data acquisition this week. I’m gonna use my 1on1 with Ryan for the processing I think
Now I know why I've been clouded out for a month, that fella is stealing our clear skies
Tbh idc during galaxy season as long as we get cs in summer
Zamm
Partners in crime
He’s like 20 minutes north of me
So much green honestly hurts my eyes
yeah the seeing has been trash lately
I can’t really say I ever remember having good seeing here ngl
Lots of hours watching saturn look ringless through my dob
And Jupiter looking like a brown ball with no details 
Why's the seeing so trash?
Oh wow. Guess it's time to feast
I mean adjust my backfocus for another few hours
Finally got around to it and mounted the EAF.
Roki deployed out at the dark site.
initial pass on roki data
Feeling better? Putting together another run out to Pyramid tonight. Might be able to catch aurora as well!

I’m going to Oakland in a few hours 😞 I’m not even be able to image for this weekends clear nights. Even though they’re the first forecasted good seeing since I’ve had my SVX
RIP
Other than a growing moon, we got a nice lineup forecast
I’m seriously so upset
It’s for my parents’ engagement party which is cool in concept but in reality I’m just going to be in the house alone all weekend 😭
Have not had a night of good seeing with my SVX yet. HFR the first night I got it was in the high 2s, HFR lately has been in the high 3s. Last night it jumped around from 2.8-3.9 with round focused stars 
I actually had one night where it was low 2s, and the FWHM for that night was all in the 1s
thats gotta be frustrating, to have your crown jewel ota, and decent conditions...and still not be able to get in a session.
To go do some shit I don’t wanna do 😭 yea I’m bummed. I can’t bring up the idea of staying home though it’ll just cause issues
It just went off
Could you see with your naked eyes?
If you say yes I’m
I’m already so angry that I’m not home
100%
I am bawling
Are you in Reno or at pyramid
That makes me less sad
Might hit pyramid tomorrow if it’s clear
Was out there tonight... Wwaaay to busy. 1000s of people.
Impossible to image with all of the passing headlamps and tail lights.
I returned home
Were there lights going on at least?
No
Damn
Last night was the night
If this is the thinkables mount, what are your eaf settings?
step size, default 50. really about the only thing I set was to 'reverse'. No problems with the routine.
Okay
What’s the default measurement (hyperbolic, trendlines, parabolic)
Oh yeah, it's all coming together
*Fixed the back focus after Lux pointed it out
don't trust the 3d printed rings btw
mine broke
I was lucky to catch it
I think i printed the same model with 80% fill, mine was a remix of this model
I have these exact same rings. They will never break. The lens will break before they do.
I do however have a metal dovetail
can you tell me how you attached them, also send me the files for the prints?
I got a aluminium block and milled down angles on the edges. Drilled and tapped a hole for the bolts to go in to.
Nice
Model is the open Astro tracker ring set. Somewhere online.
o
What stop do all of you use? Will f2 bloat my stars?
Don't use cheap PLA to hold your $100's of equipment
3d printed parts are really strong idk how it managed to break
I use 2. A little more bloat than tighter F ratios but it’s certainly manageable. I like the speed.
very, f2.8 will work
If the stuff is tuned, then yes. But also I had a CF filament that would bond to anything but to itself, so sometimes you just get some crappy stuff
I thoroughly beat the shit out of all of my 3d printed parts before using them
They have all survived
makes sense
Love this area with the Rock'n On 135
Is this part of a bigger project?
nope, just picked an area to run on.
Ah nice. What were you imaging?
just wanted to capture a vast swath of Ha
Punchy and crunchy. Need more than 4hr
The Chinese l-extreme the sv220
Quite some Oiii already, even the soal bubble is kinda visible
Optolong is Chinese as well
I hope I'll be able to get data on Westerhout 63 this summer, also already visible on your image but I think you have pretty good skies no?
This one is more Chinese
They probably got a kid to make mine
My Backyard is a B4-B5
Nice. How much integration time do you aim at?
Ah and is that an IMX571?
Widefield cygnys so cool with narrowband
Mine is unusually higher than the average American since I high-ball Chinese sellers on their online markets
Yeah
I'm gonna try north america with a stock dslr today, hopeso i get good data
b2 and sround 3 hours
Does anyone have a weird greenish cast with the Samyang 135mm or is it just me?
Especially with photometric color calibration in SIRIL
Why would it be the lens causing that?
Does the glass appear to be green or something?
It isn't the camera, as when another lens or telescope are used the colors are OK.
Likely OSC things. There might be slight CA affecting photometric CC.
moar data, better balance
How much are you at?
~9 hour
How much do you want in total?
Not sure, Ill probably double it this week (~18h) and see what it looks likes.
this is just fast stacking in DSS, and real simple workflow. Im sure Im leaving lots on the table here.
The OIII is really picking up now ~12h
Ooh
I liked it better with this balance of h alpha to oiii
What kind of exposure times am I looking at for North America nebula in a Bortle 4?
1 hour in total will suffice for a decent image
at f6.3 and a non modified camera i was able to pick up allot at 1 hour
As much as possible, I aim for ~15-30 hours as a baseline where im happy. Bortle 3.
well. at f2.8 and narrowband couple hours makes an image but it kinda sucks
would need to multiply that few times
bro whoever reacted to my message i said DECENT not great holy crap
like 1 hour at f2 wont give you a terrible image for gods sake
very much depends lol
well anywhere but a city
depends on the object as well, if houre going for dust like the stuff around iris then 1h is just not gonna be good
north american nebula...
wont be terrible but still noisy
hence "decent"
(credits to Luke Aren) 27 minutes at f2.2 with the roki no calibration frames bortal 2
i would call that a decent image
Do you know if it was taken with a modified cam?
it has to be
that much ha
how are u guys running it at f2.2 and f2.4? i can only use it at f2 and f2.8 or higher
the aperture ring clicks into place between the f2.8 and f2 location, guessing thats where f2.2 or f2.4 is located
Step down rings
Not using the aperture ring
Which ZWO cameras do you guys recommend with this lens?
@hazy copper uses 533mc i think and hes an absolute champ with it
Thank you!
however 533mc is a very small square sensor, so it probably doesnt use all the image circle
also the square aspect puts some people off
but that also means you can use it wide open at f/2 and have tight stars throughout the frame
but you'd best ask him, because i use the lens with a dslr
The sensor size sucks, but it is nice having good stars
depends on your budget
Can get a touptek 571 if your roki is nice.
I have a question lads.
https://astrob.in/maaf07/0/ This is an image of the molecular clud around lambda ori
40 mins of int with a roki, 2600mc pro and an l-extreme
This is 5-6 hours in winter with a 533, idas nbz and roki as well. I know the stars and colours etc are trash but it was a test shot. But how is it that I have those dark spots everywhere and so little signal compared to him?
I have over 5 times more int (I also accidentally deleted half of my data hut that wouldn't have helped too much I think)
Also, on my phone it looks a lot more saturated than on my laptop so sorry about that
dark spots could be your background extraction.
his image is also lower contrast
Well I didn't get it much better and neither the graxpert AI. Also I suspect I had my filter in with the wrong side facing fordwards
I've heard conflicting things wether that affects the signal or not
Having an image full of nebula makes the extraction and model generation pretty much impossible.
Ah I see
Does anyone use a Skyguider pro with their roki? How long of subs can yout ake? I don't want to have to bust out the EQ-G every time I want to do widefield.
I've ran the Rock'n On 135 on the swsa2i. 3m subs no problem.
Looks very similar to the SGP
indeed
Could probably handle this just fine then
Manual target finding is terrible.
I mean @civic mirage made 5 min exposures with a small apo so you should be fine
Good way to get used to the sky + if you get a proper fine adjustment dec plate for sgp it's much less aggravating to center targets (I suffered with the original dec swivel plate).
Also makes you appreciate finally getting goto much, much more.
Yea your good with the sgp
My payload was slightly above it's capacity 
Still ran like a champ
That is true. However I hated getting up at 1 am to do a meridian flip or find a new target.
Oh definitely, that was my no. 1 issue.
At times I let it go through the night if the target was low to the east or a little before zenith to the west. I got it shut down early enough before it ran into the tripod. But risky of course.
Unfortunately SGP doesn't have setting circles
Has anyone here used 3d printed diffraction spike masks?
facts
to mute spikes in newtonian imagry? Yup. Used em on my 8" Worked pretty.
Actually to emulate spikes on the roki
Hows your Cygnus Image coming along btw?
you can just put like 2 pieces of fishing line or whatever string in a cross shape in front of the lens and itll work
It probably will yeah, but having something like a bahtinov mask that you can just put on it is easier and more consistent I'd say. I have access to a 3d printer, just was curious if others tried it before
people definitely have, just not sure how many do it with the roki, i know a person here who 3d printed a spike mask for a larger frac, lemme link some of the images
#1205890009526181919 message
Took a break. I've pulled about 40 hours total. Needs to be sifted through with subframe selector. I think the last processing was at 100x300s of selected frames.
U need more o3, i know that because i made the same mistake
Is this osc, well that would explain the horrendous noise
So this is only about 8 hours? Keen to see the final image
You can mask those out?!
I was referring to a physical 3D printed mask you put in front of a refractor to get Newtonian spikes
Oh, I thought you meant it in this way for some reason
8lb black braid tied w/ clinch knots
You can get 100yd/m of 8lb braid for like 10 bucks
what targets can I shoot with a stock mirrorless and the roki apart from the standard ones?
this is a video i took from the roki at b9
at f2
"If your roki is nice" is this phrase talking about like their quality control? I'm a little confused
yup, most will be ok, the biggest issue is mounting it without tilt issues and the correct backfocus.
i can get to b4
Then ur in for a great time with a roki i think
the video was shot at b9
what targets tho
i did rho and bodes
Try stuff around cygnus
Or stuff near milkyway core
Idk where ur from so it depends
If u shot bodes prob europe or usa?
I'd say it's a bit better now, stars are shit and denoised af but it was more of a test shot
way better
@open swift nerd this dude
Haha thanks but I haven't posted a single image in deep space pics, only WIPs
Well you need you a red name
I’m gonna harass Nick
You seem to do that a lot xD
I wish I gave my roki back and got a new one
Are you using normal narrowband filters or highspeed ones?
I think the high speed ones would be baader to use than normal narrowband
They sure would be but is this a wordplay?
Just a little
Actually how would f/2 narrowband filters compare to normal narrowband filters?
I’m guessing it’s just what you need, like I need normal narrowband filters since my roki is so shit
Narrower does not mean better
This is a follow on to my longer video comparing various bandwidths for narrowband filters and is based on my testing of Astronomik MaxFR filters in this video https://youtu.be/rtFX92dZE_w
Thanks to AstroGabe for posting his code that I used
https://github.com/gshau/fast_optics_with_narrowband/blob/master/bandpass...
It's pretty evident especially with tight bandpasses
Never really been studying about band passes
What? 🤔
Like how the f/2 filters work
Oh they have a special coating
The bandpass is just slightly shifted forwards right ?
I’ve just been looking for some to cop, but my first attempt at veil was a reality check
I might just get some cheap 1.25” mono filters with a 533 if I ever do decide to go mono
That's how I understood yeah
That's why it only works on the specified aperture ratios
On the roki?
L
I'm just gonna leave this here, sums it all up pretty much
Don’t know from where but yeah
Well if I'd go mono on the roki I'd prolly get either pretty wide filters or save up for highspeed ones
At least for Oiii
Mono roki is absolutely sick but idk if the highspeed filters for that would be warranted. Maybe if you get a fast main scope
I could get a Quattro but I’m tired man
I ain’t ever wasting my time doing allat collimation
it really isnt that bad
I’d mess it up more than it was
collimation is very easy with bobs knobs
i sound like an ad wtf
probs isnt but im stupid
i might get a newt one day but it would cost a lot coz id need a new mount too
im happy with my swsa gti and rc51 for now
GTi is a solid mount
I bet it would do a 5" Newt alright tho
maybe , id love to get a quattro 150P ngl such a sick scope
I used to run an 200PDS, was one of my all time favorite OTA tbh
yeah they're great scopes but i am LOVING my rc51 atm
For sure. My little Sharpstar 61 gets most of my attention these days.
haha yeah . my RC51 is my baby , used to have ZS61 but wasnt a fan tbh althought i only ran it unguided and BB so idk how it could of done
I had a ZS61 and kept the Sharpstar over it.
Still run a ZS81 though! It was my fist OTA, not sure I could part with it
zs61 are alright but when i got guiding and filter i was already on RC51 so i didnt use zs61
yeah bonding haha
Id thought about an RC51, but the Sharpstar is pretty good for me, and comes in at ~270mm f/4.4 with reducer.
oh nice , yeah if the sharpstar is good defo stick with that
About the only thing I "want" would be a 12" f/4 newt as an upgrade to my 10" f/5
12'' at F/4 is amazing ngl
I run my 10" at f/3.75 and its been great but Id love a 305mm primary lol
Oh nice fast little thing
"little"
Muting spikes on a newt is diabolical 
They're great
Woah that's bright
Ah nice sure looks very convincing
Question for you rokinon experts. If I get a lens for a cannon DSLR, would I be able to upgrade to ZWO ASI2600 MC later on?
yup
Thank you!
has anyone tried elephants trunk with the roki on unmodified cam?
that won't be good, go for broadband objects if youre unmodified
or better yet get modified or astrocam
i wanna try cygnus
what i was thinking is that I could maybe apply hubble pallete to my osc images
and spend like 2 to 3 hours at f2.2 or 2.8
with the roki
Doesn’t work that way. You need 3 channels of narrowband.
ou
just keep it osc, hubble p is 🤮
broadband bestband
Or sell S3 filter 
i hate hubble palette except for a select few targets with very distinct Sii emissions
then it looks nice
and hot take, foraxx sucks
I used to really like foraxx, but now it's just meh. If done really well and on certain targets it can be neat.
what's foraxx?
it's a palette that's basically looks like dark orange and blue
speaking of Foraxx palette... WIP, still need more data to control the Oiii splotchiness
That's sick as hell
ou
alright fine, it OCCASIONALLY looks good
maybe ive just seen too many absolutely done-in foraxx images
Yea it has the ability to look great
Last year's Crescent Nebula in foraxx inspired pallet
I agree it can only look good in certain regions, just like SHO. I think it fits really well here
HOO pretty much always looks good though
how do you achieve such pallete? is it possible in ps??
yes
howso
you do narrowband?
@civic mirage inspired, lol, not a proper process, just the OHH combo
Dayum, that's actually insane looking.
guessing a mosaic? how many panels?
🐉
3 panels, up to 2h20m each
(5nm dualband filter)
sic
Rho from B1
anyone have tips for settings in Nina for the EAF with the Roki/Samyang 135?
what camera and mount? also exposure time?
AM5, Imx571, 100x120s
What kind of integration time am I looking at for Rho Oph in a bortle 4
21.5 hours here. I would say it’s workable at 15.
Heck probably workable at 10 if you have a clean sky.
Most of this data was shot at 60-90 degrees altitude
Thing only rises to 22 degrees here
They I would say 20 hours with a dark horizon
What cam?
thats beautiful
is that the same set i processed?
You pinged me instead of LMC 🙂
oh shit mb
yeah dw about it
i just cant rmb the integration of the one i processed
533mc
That's delightful, only thing id do is watch that darkest area of the dust. Looks slightly clipped. But you may not be finished with it idk lmao.
I guess I need to mask that then. It’s unavoidable if you want the real background to be acceptable brightness.
This was a half edit too.
Well, finished edit but I wasn’t happy with it.
Yea I feel like the contrast will still be good, that area is darker than the background anyway.
you could try applying an stf to a preview of the dark part and then applying that stf to the whole image to preserve it
hey, if anyone else has shot the rho opphuchi with roki on a apsc sensor, lmk, I wanna try merging other people's data with mine to see how it turns out
why not f2.2?
It’s not noticeable in sharpness gain, noticeable in snr drop.
shot it full frame, but my signal is very clean, with good contrast from bortle 2. detail is good too here's a crop
I only have 20 minutes of data on rho, I'm waiting a little further into the season for it to get higher where I am
This is what I had so far, full frame at f/4 in bortle 4 sky
Do you guys have any recommendations for a IR cut (ha pass) filter?
Was kinda bummed. Go out of state to B1 skies for star party with one of the main goals to run on Rho for a few hours...and I get high clouds.
Image still turned out decent... But I know was sub optimal
the hell is mpeg
mustyahh picture eg
Woah epic, why is crescent pure blue though
He likes the color blue
Think it's just lost in translation at this image scale and resolution. Make no mistake, there is plenty of O3 signal in the region, but when we crop in, we see a more familer distribution.
does anyone know of a bahtinov mask for this that works down to f/4? The one I use works fine at f/2.8 but the middle spike disappears at f/4
If you focus at f2 or 2.8 the lens should still be in focus when you click it down
Or just take a longer exposure or find a brighter star for that f4
Oh interesting I didn't think focus would hold the same
Looks cool
its has been that since the film days. Focus wide open, stop down for the picture
but astro stuff usually needs some special attenion or double checking
thinking that you are focusing precicely at infinity and dont need to be somewhere in the middle of some other distance's depth of field
Focus will actually be better
Than if you baht’ed at f/4
Don't get too many clear nights so I experimented with adding data from an 85% moon session with a previous no moon session. GraXpert totally cannot handle the moon gradient and leaves a weird artifact. The result is interesting, the galaxies in the image look a lot better with the extra data but a lot of fainter stars are drowned out making the overall result worse
@hazy copper u use roki at f2 right?
does it just bloat the stars or the nebula too?
coz if it's just thr stars then some blurx should do it right, it's good at f2 for max light gathering
if stars are bloated then so will everything in the frame, the lens doesnt choose what is gonna have aberrations
its obviously more visually apparent in stars, since they are just points of light
ou
ahh
okay
Its a trade off. You really can't know if it's the best option for you until you test your lens. I image at f2 as well and it works great for me
mine works too but the stars are weird shaped
i never tried at f2.2
ill try if that fixes the the dtars
f2.8 is sharp
You can always retake stars separately as well
Interesting comparison. Rho from B1 dark site (GSSP) ~3h away (100x120s) vs Rho from B2 dark site (PYRAMID) ~45min away (80x120s). B1 Rho nekid sensor, B2 Rho additional UV/IR. Cant say for sure if both were shot at same f/ratio. I feel B2 was shot faster, just due to ca in the stars.
I would also note, B1 did have high thin cloud obstruction
Pyramid has a better dbe
First testing on Andromeda from up North in Michigan at around Bortle 2.5
~42 minutes total integration so far
Bloated stars kill.
aside from the obvious, this would be a much better composition if u used the same dbe points, or better yet MSGR. on the left one the antares region is VERY oversubtracted. right looks fair bit better, but if it's shot faster that makes sense
Untracked Orion nebula
-sony a3500
-samyang cine T2.2 135mm about 2600subs at 1.3 sec exposure
old photo that I tried to process couple of time and this Is my best attempt yet
Very clean
thx
quite similar to mine
you should try this it helps a lot but if you go to far it starts getting weird
lightroom
interesting. havent used that denoiser
seems to really like faking stars
It's not the ideal way to denoise, but if that's all that's available then it can be useful. I would apply it VERY lightly tho to preserve as much detail as possible.
K. Sokolovsky discovered on 29 July a nova in Vulpecula, V615 VULPECULAE, using a 135-mm-f.l. f/2.0 telephoto lens in the course of the "New Milky Way" (NMW) survey.
The nova has a magnitude of 10.
More info here: http://www.cbat.eps.harvard.edu/iau/cbet/005400/CBET005423.txt
Leica R 180mm f3.4 APO wide open
zero CA. Superachromat lens
costs the same used as a roki brand new though
Wtf
What did you image with it ?
a little bit of veil
How good did it come out
@civic mirage this is from the first 5min sub
noisy and low signal. i dont have super dark skies and nights are still short in the north
What sensor
just a 533 
dayumn
dont like how this turned out
1.5hrs in nautical dark + civil dark using a 4nm dual narrowband
yep. my last years veil pic was with a the z61 at f4.8 and used same filter
half the speed, double the signal
@civic mirage now im wondering if i should try widefield narrowband cygnus area using a 50mm lens
Would be neat
something like this
Ooo ye
@civic mirage this lens still impresses me. It has no fluorite since its expands/contracts with temps too much.
This sucker kept focus all night
German gigachad made his own glass mix
Joining the gang in a few days 
Did u stop down
I was looking at results from my boy @thorny jetty and this lens seems absolutely terrible wide open
No its wide open
This is Leica lottery. Not a roki
Mono sub
Well his images look absolute cheeks with coma chromatic aberration and everything
This vintage lens costs same used as a brand new roki
What the
Wait so that's not a roki?
No he said its a leica something go further back in the conversation to see its name
Don’t crack it wide open if your shit sucks
Oh well I didn't read and i thought it was a roki because yk this is the thread specifically for rokis
Ikr, surprised me too at first
No worries imo mate 
any target suggestions for winter, dslr not modified amd apsc
except the usual orion n stuff
Ifn in general is a good option for unmoded cameras
why roki + unmodded
why not mod it
You can use it for daytime no problem.
Autofocus works fine if you can get the sensor at the right level
my camera is too expensive for me, and I dont want to risk modding it
thats the problem
any other targets?
Pleiades
Also I just realised that this forum was created on my birthday
will do that
I use mine all the time during the day it it works fine
can i get sugestions on what to shoot with my rokinon if i live near Brasov?
Cygnus région or pléiades
3.5 hours on Andromeda so far, definitely want more data on this
getting the color balancing anywhere near happy on this is acting very hard
now with 5.5 hours
thx for the sugestion
No problem, happy you shot what i suggested !
Im shooting polaris ifn tonight (no need for a tracker if i shoot 20s with ballhead)
Allows me to do a quick session with short time to set up and leave
Very noice
great target, I did it befor with this lens. I suggest you get at least 2.5 hours
Only could get about 1hr
No problem, GraXpert does wonders
Why would you want to use F4 instead of F2? I’m curious as to why you’d want to step down from F2
Idk what you are answering to, but when its at f/2, all the defaults of the lens are revealed
what do you mean by "all the defaults of the lens are revealed"
I mean coma and CA may appear depending on the quality of the lens
So based on that, I would rarely want to use f2?
The rokinon 135 has low aberration even at f2
Prople mostly shoot with it at f/2.8
Coma is another thing tho
this is a corner of one of my images. The elongates shape is from the tracker
If thats from the tracker shouldnt it be elongated on the whole image ?
Unless you are shooting polaris cause it rotates if im not forgetting anything
Guided?
it is
no
Depends on your copy i guess
I’ll be getting my rokinon today so I’ll be testing it tonight, well see how it goes! Thank you guys for the info!
some people also use narrowband filters where you cant shoot at a fast ratio bc youll get band sshift unless you buy a high speed filter but are sometimes more expensive than the traditional filter, hence people stop down the lens
Ah I see, thank you so much! I noticed how some pictures are shot at f2.8 and higher and wondered why. I wanted to be ready for my first night so this has been very helpful.
f/5.6 narrowband with the roki is amazing
I just use narrowband at f2.8, same as broadband cuz if I go below that it's just all noise
Be careful tho, at high speeds most narrowband filters suffer from bandshift
You might have better snr by stopping down a little
À least on Oiii
ive tried all the way down to F5 and its just more noise then signal its painful
The bandshift impact depends on your filters bandwidth so ig 2.8 might actually be the best
6 nm?
Think it’s either 5 or 7 can’t remember
First try with my Samyang 135mm + Sony A7III as I'm waiting for my 294MM Pro to arrive. Just about 2 hours of exposure. Very excited to shoot with Bin1 47mpx mode. Till now I had 533Mc pro which is definitely not good choice for this lens so I didn't even try.
My friend made me a custom M48 adapter to that lens. I removed whole Sony E mount back and replaced it with that adapter which is much shorter than original e-mount. According to my calculations I should be able to fit filter wheel there.
(tape is just for locking the aperture 😄 )
It might be that your filters are already a bit preshifted
Idk
Some people had issues with that
I wonder how you can make a dovetail bar for the thinkables mount
I don’t like the plastic one
First light with the rokinon
F2.8
25S 82 minutes total
Guided
I did have issues at high exposures, I had to bring it down to 25 second exposures. Around 60 second exposures were pretty much just white, is that too long for the lens?
no, its due to the light pollution
I took 1.5 min exposures which were dark in a low light pollution site
Ok great! I took it out again tonight and have it pointing up at C20, currently taking 60s exposures and it seems to be good!
cool
what's you're setup?
-Sky watcher star adventurer GTI
-Rebel t7 - going to be getting a full spectrum t3i soon
-ZWO ASI120mm + apertura guider
oh very nice
I have a similar setup, with a unmodified camera and the roki
how are the subs turning our for the NaN?
guessing youre in a pretty light polluted area to be getting blown out in only 60s
yeah
NaN?
LOL. Good so far! I’m in bortle 4 actually so I normally get good subs at 60s
is c20 visible in single subs?
Nope, I’m about to get 2 hours worth of data though so we’ll see how it turns out. I’ve been using Deneb to make sure I’m in the right area
interesting, im in b4 as well, ive shot pleiades into the light pollution dome and got away with like 2min subs at f2.4
oh nice, you should use nina for imagong then
it'll platesolve and get to your target
😳 maybe the camera? The lens seems to be fine, no issues with the subs or anything. I guess I’ll find out tonight whether long exposures with an unmodified dslr is a good idea or not.
I’ve been using APT, haven’t really looked into NINA. I’ve been messing with dithering in APT, haven’t even looked into plate solving yet
oo
I prefer nina coz i dont guide, and i can dither without guiding in nina
I went over my data from last night, the 60 second exposures are fine. They are white in the camera preview, but theyre fine when you open with Siril or other astrophotography software. Link for subs if you want to take a look: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C7JHN0TfQOQ8QfjryB4PBRRNjEONfLEf/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O32hnuYfWYUGUQDJTPg2SozOJ70eEP5x/view?usp=sharing
I've just ordered my rokinon 135 
hope you win the roki lottery 
anyone imaged the triangulum with the roki? is it worth it ?
I've seen some do it and I'd say it's worth it
Yep, finger crossed! There's a 2weeks free return for any reason anyways
2weeks of cloud coverage 
yes u can
my sensor was absolutely knocked off course and autofocus works fine
it literally moves the motor
until it focuses
I do daytime with my camera all the time after modding
sure I do have to fix the red tint in post processing
only because I'm not bothered to fix the white balance
I usually shoot at f/2.8 sometimes f/4 sometimes f/2.0. Here is a collection of various targets with various camera/filters. Band shifting hasn't seem to been an issue even at f/2.0
what bortel scale are you shooting from
What are those, around the stars, like a halo of gas?
Just Halo
Bortle 4
These are amazing!! I’m assuming you’re using a ZWO camera?
These are using dedicated astro cameras, Ive used DSLR in the past but dedicated cams performance is much better and easier to use filters.
DSLR and 585MC
I’ve been debating if I should get a full spectrum t3i or a dedicated Astro camera. I do like the Astro camera picture more.
I think just for ease of introducing filters alone, makes the case for dedicated astro cam. The 585 makes a compelling argument with its cost/performance ratio.
I might end up getting it, might go for the pro to help with the hot temperatures in the desert
Ive paired it with many pro models from the 294 to the 071 to 2600 and the 585 non pro. All produced good results. I have yet to see a comprehensive compare between the 585 pro and non pro. I'd like to see that tho!
well even with sony starvis sensors. when they are warm, the noise is quite big
cooling is so good honestly
I did get the rokinon for canon DSLR, would that still work the 585?
canon EF mount, yes. Most adaptable for astro use
Does noise matter that much when you swamp it with signal?
Still would like to see the comprehensive compare between the 585 pro and non pro
this camera is at +17.5C and only 60s exposure (imx533). It has tens of times more thermal noise than a cooled camera doing a 5min exposure
Alright! I’ll be getting the pro in a few weeks then! Thanks for the information you guys!!
the dark current graph tells the rest of the story. every 5C it goes up by ten times
but the data still stacks fine. with signal there is a presentable image for sure
processing takes care of the rest. just depends how picky a person is.
Yeah... All fine and dandy on paper and single exposures don't tell a whole story
but cooling for sure is a god sent for long exposure narrowband
i myself is battling to get good signal from a more polluted area. i take all the gains
found a sub with same camera doing +6.5C. Same scope, same sub length. Alot less noise.
left +17.5C, Right +6.5C

Still single subs which don't do much for me 🤷. Far from a comprehensive comparison. And I'm all for cooled cams. I'm just particularly interested in the 585 pro vs non pro.
i found extra noise really problematic when resolving fainter stuff.
fast lens, high fullwell, lowest noise possible. Let there be dust
Well be proud of your discovery sure. But I'm still just looking for the 585 pro vs non pro comparison.
well go and find it then, its all in the spec sheet to calculate thermal noise for a comparison.
the imx sensor are like everything else when they are warm. really noisy
i need all nighter targets for this sundayy, with the samyang and unmodified cam
orion
except orion and andromeda please :C
M33
Heart and Soul is rising pretty early. Nice wide FoV could be nice.
Tested dithering last night, 120 second exposures, around 3 hours total, new dithering settings.
I noticed this weird cloud over the picture before stretching (after background extraction in autostretch). I have on M31 and M45, is this normal? I messed with the background extraction settings but nothing changed it. I originally placed the red boxes in the background but after so many tries I just generated them
Literally the only reason to not get cooling is budget limitations.
so they tell us...🐑
you can adjust the samples it generates with left and right click, just gotta make sure none of the samples are on stars or the target itself
The difference in dark current between cooled and non-cooled cmos sensors are not gonna be very far off from each other, except maybe early cmos chips.
If your not budget limited, it makes sense to get the most out of which ever sensor your going with.
I did try that but it was still the same. Not really sure why but I don’t think it changes the results, especially if I add more data to it. I went back and re-processed it.
can change smoothing amount
no
Using player one graphs. Doing a 300s exposure with a IMX585 at -5C or +20C has a absolute massive difference
1.137e of total noise per pixel over 300s at -5C OR 36e at +20c 
you can take darks, dither and stuff. but with the randomness of thermal noise you can only mitigate it
why even have it in the first place
best feature in a camera. Cooling
Ah I kind of said that wrong, I meant the difference between various recent cmos chip's performance when cooled isn't gonna be very different. A 585 is gonna benefit from cooling around the same as a 533 or 571.
There all the same architecture in a sense... Temp is going to have very similar effects to all of them. It's mostly dependent on how good the cooling is.
But yea I totally agree
i usually just check what temp i need to hit for narrowband
cooling too much does almost nothing after a point
just drains my battery alot
with 533 and 571 cooling to -10c ur good for almost anything around 5 - 10min subs. good for 5min subs at -5c
But at warmer ambient temps i can run the cooler at higher power since the battery lasts longer. 
@civic mirage cuiv has two videos on this. One with 294's where the uncooled just didnt resolve the faint stuff. Second vid is going over camera specs and he does all the math around astrocam graphs.
I'm the winter I kinda wanna try -20 c lmao
I'm wondering if my 1600mm doing 10 min subs would see a considerable benefit.
dam lol
I thought it was a wilder diff
Like 5c on the 533/571 equaling the dark current from 1600mm at -20c
I think it was near positive 5c , but possibly -5c
actually ur right. there was a extra zero in the 571 graph 😂
Bruh I've ordered a Sony A roki and I got a Sony E
Of course its a bad copy...
At f2.8 on a 585 sensor it's already bad and it doesnt get better at f3.5 or more
I'll send it back i guess
Have you ruled out tilt/backfocus?
Actually those stars look really bloated
I'll agree
Backfocus is good to around 0.5mm and i'm not sure there's no tilt at all but it looks consistent across my setups (directly mounted to the sony body or to an adapter to the uranus c) so I'll check again but I think it's just a bad copy
Tbf my process is atrocious on this one (5 mins of exposure through some clouds so not easy lol)
Shouldn't Backfocus be accurate to at max 0,1 mm?
Yes I will try again with a more precise adjustement
Tho it shouldn't be too bad for the sony camera
And it is
Am I gonna want to track with an EQ mount for the comet, or just take untracked photos with a regular tripod
TRACK
Shot some untracked for fun, hate the small star trails
Do I need to guide or just track siderially with a decent polar alignment?
Since you wanna do relatively short exposures, tracking should suffice but guiding doesnt harm
20-30s exposures at 135mm
Won't that burn you the comet out
What exposure time should I be using at 135mm


