#Rokinon/Samyang 135mm discussion
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yeah, orion mosaics are so sick
If I go aps c route this looks like the way
This guy did it in 9 panes, just 2.5 hours a lane
B3
I feel like a 2x2 mosaic on orion would be sick
what is this mosaic planner btw? 
Sky guide for iOS
needs a sub 
Itās a worthy one though I will say
aside from some very normal - looking tilt that should be easy enough to shim out, I think I finally got a good copy!
this is not wide open because didn't want to waste a rare clear night during the arizona monsoon season but is at f2.8
I am happy with these stars. No idea what they look like on an aps-c FOV but even with the 533's small pixels they look good enough for me to enjoy using it which is all I need
slightest bit of coma at the corners (this is top right) but probably nothing I couldn't buff out shooting at f4 for stars on narrowband projects
this doesn't bother me too much though even at 2.8 tbh
you did it 
have you given it a name already? a good copy roki is a family member now
im gonna try my 135 with 533 too i guess
I'm so so so stoked
This one looks so good
it was sold for a bit cheaper than I think it would have otherwise because it has a dust mote in the lens assembly somewhere that is visible when you look down the tube
but I couldn't even see it in the uncalibrated subs let alone after calibrating and stacking with flats
so I think I got it for a steal on top of it
Well done
will have to see how it performs wide open at f/2 but if this is what it's doing with the 533 tiny pixels at 2.8 I bet I could do fine with nonstellar structures at f2 with it, they'd still be sharp enough (at least enough for blurxterminator to tame)
so far my canon 200 looks like garbage
Maybe i need to tinker with backlash settings so the eaf works better
shapes are ok. Red fringing is a total apocalypse
i did starx and killed all star colour off 
⦠should have gone with Askar ACL200
processed this 5min single sub
didnt get much else with the gap in the clouds

now that i've finally settled on one of these and am not giving up on the samyang dream I just ordered that mod to remove the bayonet and have a screw in mount
hopefully this irons out most of the remaining tilt
Who here got the bayonet adapter thing from FLO in the UK? How does it change back focus?
Measure 44ish mm from the shoulder of it, or count itās thickness?
I did, it states in the comments of the product that it doesn't contribute to Backfocus
Oh cool so basically just measure from its shoulder
I have one
Yeah, the base of the thread basically
Okay so I think I have this rightā
6.5 for the recess in the camera
11 for the tilt plate
6 mm spacer
21 for the filter drawer
= 44.5, which is about 0.1mm short of what it āshouldā be given a 1.85mm filter adding 0.61 additional back focus need
I think this seems right
(This would be without the bayonet and bayonet Zwo drawer)
that 0.1mm difference could make or break having good stars at f2 but stopped down it should be fine
I have been mostly out of cowardice shooting f2.8 but I also have a 5mm ring and a bunch of 3d print spacer shims at 0.6,0.4,0.3,and 0.2mm so I bet I could cobble something together to make 1.1
If I were that 0.1mm off but threw away my stars at f2 would the nonstellar be noticeably impacted by the backfocus discrepancy?
Say I knowingly shot at f2 but starxterminator the stars out and reshoot them anyway at f4 and combine them with pixel math ā is my nebula going to suffer considerably?
nebula suffers just as much as the stars
though it is less noticeable without zooming
Nice guide cam
lol?
That's a 533mc, very much an imaging camera
but i thought 
i mean some people do use it for guiding lmao
Those people scare me
some day. my 6 inch newtonian is becoming a guide scope
sometimes they have like 16" scopes and so they pair a 533 with like a redcat to get good guiding for that scope
That's fair but at 16" I usually see an Orion 80, and bigger sensor like 4/3
thats true
Im probably going to use a dslr for guiding 
did you use the tilt adjustment plate on the cam?
533 does not have one. The 2600 does
zwo sells a t2 tilt plate for planetary cams, 1600, 533 etc that have the 11m t2 in the front
yeah I think I'm pretty happy now with this camera! This is at F2. just what looks like a little back focus to work out, but not too much
some fringing at F2, not sure if y'all would say to use it and just reshoot stars or always stop down to 2.8
2.8 has the fringing too but less so
I know I'm a pinch too far in and need to shim out the tiniest bit for back focus but it looks reasonably uniform to me, at least for this lens
added back a 0.1mm shim to the train and will see how that impacts backfocus
also have a 0.2mm one so can go 0.1-0.2-0.3 to see what plays best
Yeah not enough backfocus. You can try ur luck and add the shim after filter drawer and hope the tilt was in cam and not in lens
i am pretty sure it's in the camera
if its tilted. Add after tilter against cam
But u probably gonna redo all this with the m48 adapter? 
i mean if i dial it all in and it's just good I'll just keep that in my war chest in case my alignment degrades
i mean, this seems to be in the realm of close to good enough to me, like they aren't offensive with my 533
the nonstellar will look good, and seems in the realm of stuff blurxterminator can help with
and then I can shoot stars at f5.6
i was testing with aps-c so my 533 could be great
i should image with that if i get the chance
my 533 atm in this warmer weather is a dark currect factory
yeah during the heat wave in Phoenix I couldn't cool it lower than +5c
doing long subs is not really a great thing atm for me
glad I bought this thing in the summer when i'm currently struggling to land a project I can really sink into between clouds, heat, and bad sight lines
getting my gear dialed in before fall
I will say, that tilter thing is extremely tedious but I had weird fear that it wasn't going to work
and it does
also I really hate windows and my remote PC is a pain in the butt but it's very nice to have ACCESS to an option that can do this kind of advanced analysis with NINA
will be glad to pivot back to my asiair when it's over but this is really helpful vs doing it with astap
yeah
its kinda problematic to solve OTA problems with asiair
no real tools for it. can only annotate average star size
yep, it's great once you're dialed in
and its also random set from sub to sub
i got my cursed ngc7000 subs to stack
something wrong with my pix wbpp
i used siril
testing out step down rings -- is this normal for them?
I was under the impression that they'd simply dim things not cause this heavy vignetting
separately, the cine copy (remember I'm currently sitting on two of them) might be actually really good?
stopped down, astap seems to like these ones
just not sure what to do about that vignetting , if that just flats out then all good but wasn't expecting it
What size ring is it?
46mm
So f2.9
But itās a cone of rings, not just a clean 67->46
Not sure if itās better to get one that just takes it down in one step
(Does such a thing exist)
this was roughly f2.8 with the blades
Isnt the filter size 77
But ye the lens sits abit deep from the filter threads. I noticed something similar from quick balcony test subs. Im going to image with one of my lenses next and see
77mm is so common size they actually sell kits that only have from 77 down and no need to put em together
yeah thatās normal, mine looks the same, flats calibrate it out
Do you have a link to the 77 to 52 step down ring you found on aliexpress?
Then in that case the cine is looking really really good
At f2 Iām really only seeing a little bit of coma in the top left
(T2.2)
I will give the regular one one more try but I ran into issues not being able to get it to focus with the required back focus spacing even with my half mod to the hard stop at infinity (i shifted it to the right 1.5 screws rather than removing it, going to try it removed as well)
Would obviously prefer stopped blades but if this cine looks this good as is and was able to focus with room to spare with no modding it seems pretty robust
Nah i got a dewshield from there. 77-52 is everywhere
Singles are not that bad. Also if you put a set-up ring after it back to 77 it you can leave the rings on and the stock lens cap fits again
yeah that's why I want one of those hoods
also I assum edoing all the stepping down as close to the objective lens as possible prob helps vignetting a bit even if they correct out with flats
I put a 72-52 ring to my canon 200 and a 52-72. The stepupās inner diameter was close to 50mm and im almost dead on the money at f4
Ill test it next when its clear. Roki or canon with the alu dewshield
and single size ring
@mystic loom #1146132625573019710 message scroll down. Upper or lower better?
lower
Having some problems with monitor colour profiles so it was a challenge. New windows install quirks to go over
i'm on a mac which are just good on colors, I really like the second
better depth of the dark areas
i need to go download the asus profiles and add them to drivers
Or settings.. and pix
The nice thing also with getting to figure out all this tilt is it's clear that it's all in my camera thankfully
both these lenses are showing mostly tilt corrected fields
the rest is back focus
refractors are not that bad to deal with
even then it's obvi much more forgiving
i sometimes adjust the focuser is it lays flat to the tube
i never touched the train in that way and have been imaging with it since february with great results
slower optics are more forgiving
yep, stars on it look fine
oh come to think of it i can always just remove the tilt plate entirely and use the 11mm spacer if it introduces some goofy effects on the refractor
so long as I keep the screw settings the same, should be fine
but ideally will just keep it on
mark it
right, to make sure I seat the turns around to the same tension etc
Fwiw, this is the one I grabbed cause its matte so wouldn't cause more reflections like I had from the stack of rings I had before
77mm Lens to 58mm Camera Lens Adapter,77mm to 58mm Filter Step-Down Ring Adapter Ring,Compatible All 58mm Filter Accessory https://a.co/d/iPdGPoJ
just flatted out the sub at t/2.2, never mind the moonlight, i was shooting uv/ir to test last night
but I think this one looks very good
I think I'm going to shoot NA nebula tonight wide open with my L enhance
can get f4 stars another night
but I just tested, the stars produced by F2 are tight enough as is that they reduce with blurxterminator and remove cleanly with starxterminator
that's really all you need, long as they're clean enough to lift out
then I can reshoot them slower
and that prob means I'm in the realm of what blurx can generally do to the nonstellar features with it's PSF tightening of "minor optical issues" as it claims
so blurx'ing my f2 prob will just tighten the slight imperfections at f2
I think I have a winner
just need to lean in hard on @uneven compass for advice on how to deal with a fussy cine
damn
you got urself a takahashi rokinon right now
i just stretch the stars manually and screen them on
virtually zero CA
was that a long sub?
goddamn it man. looks clean
either at zenith or vaguely near sadr, I forget
I guess I could plate solve and find out
irony is this is the first copy i doubted before buying the other one that claimed to have even better optics
lol maybe I keep them both and tune the other as close as I can and do roki binoculars
will see if i can get its back spacing figured out
if not will just resell it, will be easier than the cine to sell
2x roki at f/2. complete a project overnight
lol it'd be insane
it literally would
talking my wife out of the deep concern that would come from me buying a second 533, lol
so now I need to decide if I'm going to replace my l enhance with an idas nbz to further optimize this setup or buy a corrector for my sct with the proceeds of selling an ipad mini (my job gave me some gift cards for something but I've tapped amazon out of what I need from them, so needed to liquidate those gift cards, and apple stuff is basically currency, lol)
do i perfect this setup or start working on my galaxy rig for spring...
@uneven compass you just use an l enhance and are happy with it it seems
it's the filter I already have and has treated me well enough on my frac
but curious
i tryed this 4nm with my refractor and its a game changer for bortle8
shame it wont work with f2 or 2.8
3.6 is supposedly allright
yeah that's my thought - especially if I have one capable of f2.2, wonder if I should specialize with a highspeed idas nbz
i got the non uhs one. its good for f2 to 4 or something
i think the new version states it has no cap on how slow of a scope and f2 is fastest
i could use it with my f4.8 refractor then
i used mine with a 4.8 frac. works just fine
could feasibly sell off my l enhance
i got that for my lenses yeah
the 4nm is for newt and refractor. plannin on stopping down the 200mm to use that in it too
id need to try again since i got a gradient from the tilted up roki
i'm going to shoot weather permitting tonight with my lenh regardless so that can be worst conditions checking anyway
but everything just dbe's out though
yeah
true
eh, screw it I'll get the nbz, who knows what I can sell to get the sct corrector closer to galaxy season
that's so far away
yeah. half a year
ha, all that's in stock is the UHS, maybe just get that and optimize
just posted a want ad on CN classifieds, will see if I get a bite for the slow version
Even your slow version is decent
you mean my l enhance?
ahhh! you know what this shot is? just remembered - crescent nebula
you can see it in the middle
it was close to zenith and had a lot of stars
that bright star is prob sadr
It almost seems like@the slow NBZ is discontinuedāstarizona has it listed that way too
Wonder if I get the alp-t
The new NBZEX filter from IDAS is a dual-band nebula filter with O-III and H-alpha passbands - with an improved passband arrangement, the filter supports all lenses and telescopes from f/1.8 to f/10 and slower.
its renamed
f1.8 to f10
looks like the highspeed antlia is pretty cool
for a high bortle area
My back yard is prob b7 at zenith looking through the light dome of mesa and Tempe in b8 to the south so definitely bright
so interesting, a handful of stores seem to have the nbzex in europe but none in the states as far as I'm seeing
not really worth 46 eur shipping to US
It works fine... better bandpass would be better but it's hard to get one better than the lenhance that works well at f2
The only other one is the aplt high speed, and it apparently has halo issues
astro hutech imports them to the US but its not listed atm
other thing i'm kind of debating is getting the askar d2 which passes oiii / sii and keeping my l enhance
i'd probably stop down to something like f 3+ but if I were working on a shot with opportunity to get sii I could always do so
I know you have to shoot forever to get sii on osc but could be fun
we'll see how tonight goes on l-enhance
@mystic loom how did you dial in backfocus on your roki?
I think the sum of adjustments made on the tilt plate plus a 0.1mm shim
It probably could use another 0.1mm but that was how much it took to make the non cine one I had lose the ability to reach focus even with the hard stop moved and I have absolutely no idea how to do the surgery on the cine versions since all the YouTube videos are for the normal ones so I am going to leave it be for tonight lol
Not going to just start pulling screws Willy nilly on a $380 toy
Will see after tonight! Curious how it performs in a real world setup, with stacking and all
Will probably shoot Sadr region at 2.2
I wish I could remember where I got these super thin shims, maybe they came with the asi
going to give the idas uhs a try, they are in stock at starizona and they're only a town away and are pretty reasonable about returns
ha, clouds came in but I got a couple shots in with the l enhance at 2.2, wow it does not like to take stars at this aperture and sub duration
they look like christmas lights
looking forward to seeing how the nbz uhs does compared to this
I never keep dual narrowband stars but these are comically bad (maybe being too hard on them, they seem to at least remove clean-ish enough with starxterminator)
welp, PI telling me I do need to continue to fuss about my backfocus, lol
starxterminator leaving scars
in my top left corner
ok, progress
a bit of scarring and one halo I could have fixed before going further but switching bX to only sharpen nonstellar but not sharpen stars (since I'm throwing them out anyway) helped them lift out more cleanly
also my l-enhance met its match with the Blue Supermoon, the gradient was brutal, lol
its not blue btw. just a another full moon
It's supposedlty marginally brighter than normal. I believe the next one is likely to be 2037.
I know just calling it by what the normals are
"you don't understand, two full moons in one month is nothing to celebrate"
I think this was just my first time being so brazen as to just go whole hog shooting with the filter but like wide the hell open and not the entire opposite part of the sky
got the gradient out but oof
Single 5 minute sub. The new mount appears to be preforming excellently
nice, that moon is washing that out so much lol
yeah i was super happy with how mine turned out
wednesday ill start collecting on veil again and then it'll be done
Nice!
I think I'm just gonna do one night on North America, then get ha on gecko
After that I'll focus entirely on heart and soul and our secret project near taurus:)
š
NGC 1333 by any chance?
The secret proj that is
Mmm
Full moon data moment
Also got some heart and soul, but that is far from ready to stack
Found the regular speed nbz
For relatively cheap too! In case any of you were looking for it
$239 at telescopes.net
Really good price
kk took one for the team and modded my cine, figured out which screws are safe to pull to expose the hard stop
when I saw that the NBZ is 2.5mm vs my l-enhance's 1.85mm, I didn't want to mess around, I figure will need the extra distance
it's actually easier to do than the regular since you don't have to pull that rubber grip all out of shape
pick em up! https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804928315438.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.3b1318022VL5A3&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa mine already shipped
excited though about getting a cheaper version of the nbz, this can entirely replace my l enhance
since will work with my refractor
will maybe get the askar d2 that grabs oiii and sii
WIP until star data
5 hours under a full moon
Some color noise and jpeg compression artifacts, but aside from that I'm very happy
Whatād you do on color balance? Howād you bring out that magenta? I have controlled out the green but my l enhance data still quite red across the board
I have one pixelmath trick Iāve used but curious what other folks are using here
i been tinkering with the green channel in lighthroom or in pix.
i try stuff like this
i just pull put back instead of scnr. idk what is the correct method
in lightroom you can also tinker some with the hue and saturation of red green or blue
Lots of messing with colors in curves
I brought down the reds a good bit, and then brought up the blues
I think I increased the greens a little as well
Aside from that I just boosted saturation
I find l-enhance data looks nicer once I copy green channel to blue because green is often stronger and cleaner. This gives the HOO look.
Then as Dadillo said you can further mess with curves, add blue to highlights, etc.
Yeah someone gave me a formula in the main photography chat for this when I was working on veil that really helped get it out of that orange and green palette everyone gets from the Optolong filters
Did some blending of green into blue
@mystic loom botched up a rig last night to image the moon. Found out that if i remove the thumbscrew off the filter draver's slider. a redcat ring fits perfectly to the zwo eos filter drawer 
good bye filter swaps but i was doing lunar with a 100-400 sigma zoomie and 533mc
400mm just about fit the moon fully into a 1080p ROI video
Hot damn my NBZ arrives today and I have what appears to be 5 days in a row of clear skies
Going to tinker backfocus tonight finally with that 2.5mm filter and then go to absolute town
Clouds and rain I canāt suggest a fix for but lol when itās clear you shoot
I dragged my telescope out in Feb when I had Covid
How did you do this?
step down with a single size ring and then stepup back to 77. screw on a alu 77mm dewshield
First a 77-52 step down ring screwed into the lens
Then immediately next a 52 back to 77 step UP
Then a 77mm lens hood off Amazon
Also threaded
did you measure the inner diameter of the stepup ring? it should be like 50 - 50.5mm?
It came with a cover that is much sturdier than the one that comes with the lens
Oh maybe youāre right yeah itās prob less
So Iām closer to 2.7 if 50mm aperture
Which will work great
ill measure mine quick brb
49.2mm
makes sense. its 0.75 thread + some wall thickness
times 2
So just shy of 2.8
A very nice place to shoot at
For a copy that is just a bit short of great at f2.2 (might even be great at 2.2 and I just havenāt ironed out back focus fully yet)
Really hope the 2.5mm filter doesnāt blow out my infinity focus
this is like the pax roki setup lmao
Pax?
yeah like the ultimate roki setup
Lol yes
So long as I can infinity focus lol
Worst case itās stuck with an l enhance which still isnāt a tragedy
NBZ with my Roki 135
So excited to try it tonight
Clear skies!
it should! to be honest its not a huge concern for me just yet desert air and all
oh yeah. cheater
Lol
Itās actually humid today at 40% relative humidity
Positively muggy for here
Will see how it is in the winter though, dry but can freeze overnight if just barely
i like the foraxx pallate but it stretches the oiii too much and since our oiii snr is low it makes it look grainy
What's the bandpass on the nbz?
I'm intrigued
I think itās in the 20s?
Optolong believes the design of the L-eNhance filter is a technical innovation among filters. It effectively isolates the H-Alpha (10nm band width), H-Beta, and Oxygen III (24nm band width)
Little wider on red and much narrower on blue
Will be interested to see itās halo performance tonight
Figure even if itās wider at red the tighter at blue will really help during all those moon nights
Agreed for sure
And I definitely am getting halos similar to yours with the lenh on the Cygnus areas like that bright star at NA neb and Sadr
Will be good tests
Very interested in seeing how it goes, for sure something to consider
yeah i have a ton of halos on my sadr
like 4-5
imagine if iād gotten an l extreme
Idk why, the sadr region is just awful for halos
Does the lextreme have worse halos?
supposedly
Just about to go out... hoping to get everything set up in under 30 minutes
L extreme has horrific halos
this was the difference in the noice in forraxx vs natural
Great contrast but horrible halos even on slow optics
yeah
Try doing the normal pallate, and bring down the reds and increase the blues in curves
ima start shooting at 3.8 from. is on
Obviously correcting the black point as you go
It makes this really nice magenta color
Where is that @shell wasp ? What frame is that
cause my stars are an absolute mess
in that dark region in sadr
Butterfly right next to sadr
anyone here use the L ultimate?
like to the left of the star
Wow itās quite cool
It's not great with the roki unfortunately
Send me the coords
Can't really image faster than f4
it is, there are some really nice regions
Maybe Iāll try it out this week
It's literally on sadr
damn, not even f3.5?
iām not at my pc but itās literally right to the left of sadr
Oh thatās sadr centered
thatās what i use with my alp t
Got it
Like, if you slew to sadr it will be perfectly centered
Just used to seeing crescent in the corner on the sadr frame
Yeah I think I need to shoot that
another comparison, i like the color in the foraxx but itās too noisy
but thereās some really cool regions
iām getting on my pc right now
this is sick
so is all of this
@uneven compass like so?
maybe a bit more
Tone down the blues in the background a bit
I honestly kinda like it-
Even if this isn't a great target for it
Ready to image after 20 minutes 
Just gotta wait for it to get darker and for my camera to cool
Yeah - also a bit yellow in general for my taste. But Iām not smart enough to come up with a better dynamic palette that makes HOO less boring š
Yeah I like doing this too! Worked well for veil
Western Veil shows how good the NBZ is at not getting halos
(Though veil above was redcat 51 not Roki)
Ha is clean af
Looks great!
That veil is so great and man Iām sold on sadr
Whatās your integration there (and bortle)?
8 hours b4
Oh congrats on nerd upgrade
wow a role i am so cool
Lol
Ahhhh I hope this isnāt premature but I appear to be able to form a v curve on autofocus with the NBZ
I might be able to use this filter! With a large back focus shim in, likely more than I need
Corners arent amazing. i cleaned out my cam sensor and screwed it back on too tight i think.
Easy. I just do polar align and slewing to target with uv/ir cut or something. Put in NBZ and run autofocus
The main reason to have EAF is these narrowband filters actually
Bathinov masks start to demand too long exposures but autofocus is still a breeze
alright, I can definitely get into focus with this NBZ so it's a keeper
at least the slow version that comes in a couple days (going to shoot with the fast version tonight all the same)
a complication I'm realizing is that I can't find a UV/IR filter that has the same thickness as the NBZ -- it seems weird that IDAS doesn't have one simple UV IR filter that just is of same thickness as their others - 2.5mm
they sell a goofy sounding one that also does some kind of Ha boosting... not sure if i'd want this
the issue is that my svbony uv/ir filter is 1.85
so some big backfocus differences
optolong makes one that is 2.0mm thick
that's still a half a mm off from this filter
hoping to not have to go out and astap every time I switch filters
well the optolong is like 0.66 and svbony 0.616
yeah shimming differently and moving on is the option, but
maybe I'm missing some key pieces, but when I shim differently each time I have to adjust rotation, which means undoing the EAF
i can see why people give up on all this and buy a mono camera with a set of filters from the same brand, ha
Yeah so removing a 0.2 shim for broadband stars only. Once per project
if u use the svbony
yeah makes sense
Thread pitch is 0.75mm so its like a quarter turn hmm
i can actually get perfect backfocus with my 2600mc if i go shoot broadband at a darksite
since the stock window is uv/ir
shame my extension from m48 to filter drawer is 6mm instead of 5.5mm so i slotted in the optolong to increase backfocus. it went over abit
so annoying they skimped on the window on the 533, not being uv ir
makes stuff like this complicated
I suppose once I dial it in it's dialed in more or less, and I can just take notes and use the right shims for each project / phase
I have the NBZ basically perfect:
close as I'm going to get I think
looking at my subs now and the starlayer from the stack
it all ironed out with blurx correct pass only
for normal projects, won't matter too much since i'll shoot stars at like f5 and that will hide a fair amount of problems
being 0.16 over
but will want to get broadband dialed in before I go to a dark site
this night is going to be not much by means of getting actual shooting done
still configuring stuff
i rotated the ota during shooting and all subs have tilt in the bottom
the NBZ is so much tighter I'm considering bumping up to 10 minute exposures
sure if you can cool low enough
this is a 7 min exposure on NA nebula
still a fair amount to the left, I might be able to bump that further
trying 10
if that's too high will land at like 8
and then tonight will probably bail on cygnus for the remainder of the night as i'm only just getting started and it's going to set below some trees before I get any integration worth being excited about
will probably shoot california nebula for rest of the night
its just this
at -5c you can do 5min subs till noise creeps in over normal read noise. you want to cool more for 10min subs i think
oh i hadn't thought of this at all
this part is above my head
i'm cooling at -5 tonight
I can't cool much here (this is the downside of the desert in the summer!)
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check this timestamp
well actually you are going from 1.5e of read noise at 100gain to 1.6e with 10min subs
-5c
well read noise + thermal noise
as in total
still pretty damn low so might aswell go 10mins
Looks like thermal noise at -5c / 5mins and -10c/10mins is the same
this is so damn marginal though
i should check how bad it is at +20c š
With 60s subs +15c the thermal noise is already triple compared to -5c and 5min sub. Cooling is officially insane
at least as far as histogram goes, 10 mins looks right
will see in the AM
heading to bed!
Th elens
Flawless night last night 
I'm guessing 5+ hours on gecko and another 3 on heart and soul
This was 7 hours of gecko from b4
The ha needs a lot more data
The lenhance is struggling with halos as well
Whereād you go for your B4?
Charlotte obsy
Near Lancaster
Gayle H Riggsbee observatory is the official name
Neat! Thatās about 1h from my childhood home⦠never knew it existed.
Definitely get the NBZ
Let me go grab my sub of NA neb
Which we both know that one star blows up under the l enhance on
300s at f/2.75ish, NBZ
no halos
NBZ even tamed Alnitak for me.
yeah I'm in love with this filter
it's $239 right now at telescopes.net
also I found a solution for the annoyance of switching things around all the time because of those different shims
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1266065139/hyperpod-135-lens-mounting-system-for
this EAF solution uses a geared wheel rather than a belt
so long as the backlash isn't so bad that I can't focus, this one I should be able to easily open and close the ring on it without having to loosen the belt and retighten everything with allen wrenches in the middle of the night
Only downside is the NBZ is psychologically preventing me from going full mono because I canāt afford the equivalent mono filters along with the rest of the setup 
Or maybe thatās goodā¦
lol
I need to tell myself the back the f off of mono for a couple years
not letting myself blow up my inventory that dramatically
i also don't see the point of doing it unless I also bought a much bigger fov camera than the 533 and I'm not quiiiiiiiite ready to spend the 2200 or whatever it costs to buy the 2600
i could technically liquidate a lot of unused gear to do it but there's a delicate balance with significant others about the raw cost of whatever is coming in you have to spread out over time
a conspicuous flow of $20 3d print parts? sure
gotta wait a few years for another 2k purchase after getting my AM5 mount lol
Yeah so many ways to spend money. I am perpetually debating 533mm mono setup vs upgrading my 183mc pro to an IMX571 color of some kind (maybe risingcam) vs updating my mount from a cem26 to an am5ā¦
honestly? get the am5
the elimination of all annoyance
no balancing
pick it up with one hand
the passthrough electricity
i'm a father of a toddler and honestly it's the reason I'm able to do this hobby
fussy mounts are such a time suck
Yeah āmount firstā is what people always say to me :). CEM26 isnāt too bad either though - mount head is only 10lb. It just has the counterweight and balance to deal with.
Whole setup together is about 30lb including tripod.
I just unlock the RA and carry the whole thing outside when Iām using the Rokinon
Has an ipolar too
i have grown to dislike the 533 abit
Square sensor issue?
what is the point of having asp-c sensors pixel size in a a tiny sensor. the detail isnt there without bigger scopes. but then the field of view vanishes
Yeah I will probably go imx571
The 585mc TEC cooled is out now too for tiny pixels and no amp glow
Sorta a 183mc successor
Tiiiiiiny sensor though
yeah the risingcam 585 with hdr mode. honestly way better OSC for small scopes than 533
Wish it was just a smidge bigger.
looks nice, definitely need more data for this target though
i like the framing
its pmuch same sized images than 533 but finer sampling
Sorta
I think I'm mostly good in terms of broadband data... definitely need more narrowband
yeah
I assumed so! It's about an hour from where I live
it looks pretty similar to bobson's
Then again you grew up like 15 minutes away from me lol
That's what I'm going for
I just need a lot more ha
im gonna begin shooting veil again on wednesday, then ill probably start on our projects
yeah
I do need to get stars for stuff tho
I'll probably just spend a night getting stars for all 3
i mean for rgb stars you only need like 15 mins stacked right?
true
what filters did you use on this btw? is it RGB Ha combination using jimmy math?
Now that I do meridian flips, my f2 stars are unusable
The image above is pure broadband
I'm working on getting narrowband with my lenhance
Retaking stars isn't a big deal tho
I'd like 15 or so hours of ha
Yeah lol
but im gonna try stopping down to like f4 to get rgb stars so hopefully that'll help
and i guess that's just from tilt?
idk
Mhm just roki being roki
you think stopping down will help?
BlurX to the rescue 
Gotcha⦠but if you have blurx you can use f/2 and get a buttload more light in less time 
true but also the details in the nebulae arent as sharp as f2.8
and i mean f2.8 is still crazy fast, there's not going to be much difference between them. I do close to 10hr minimum projects anyways so it's not like i'm not getting a crap ton of signal
Just calculated it to be sure - f2 is twice as fast as f2.8
yes
I suppose depends on what youāre shooting! Iām trying for Iris⦠need all the signal I can get
someone needs to do a sharpness in nebulae comparison between f2 and f2.8
i think ryderdavid did one
Also would be interesting to throw blurx in there to see how accurate it is
F2 blurX vs f2.8 w/o
Just use f4 stars lol
That way you get the best of both worlds
Only thing you really miss is maybe some sharpness in the target itself
but say you shoot nebulosity at f2.8 and stars at f4, wouldnt that be the best of both worlds?
Perhaps

looks beautiful, those halos though 

Yeah lol
I have no clue why they're so bad on this target
I can probably process out the worst ones
healing tool in gimp works lol
you can get the touptek version for $1300 š
I have to stay asiair cult to keep my blood pressure down, I canāt put up with windows as an operating system unless Iām being paid for it at work, lol
20 frames at 10 mins
no darks yet, taking them today inside
you think that's just gradient or did my flats slightly not work vs the vignetting?
i think that looks just like gradient
but checking in
not perfect stars but pretty good
probably totally blurx-able

looks like normal gradient to me
i think deepsnr would work really well on that noise
still a gradient from top left to bottom right
Woops wrong reply to wrong message, but yeah DBE second pass or think this was an issue with sampling the first time? How often do you guys do multiple DBE passes
i usually do 2
Was going to say any difference between deepsnr and noisexterminator
I already own noisex
Deepsnr is free and only works on drizzled images
Some people say it's arguable better sometimes, but noisex is more consistent
Iāll have to try it out
That actually had a very subtle pass of noisex on it already
Itās quite noisey on account of the 10 min subs and no darks
If the darks take out the noise enough to come back to my normal 5 mins at 0c or -5c level I might start shooting at 10 mins
probably looks the same
from 1.5e to 1.6e of noise idk if you have that keen eye š
How aggressive would you all get about trying to fight out the last of these backfocus tails ? Mathematically, Iām a little short I think (0.03mm short) , I could shim and get to 0.07 past mathematically where my back focus should be
i have that same issue
This was the astap
gonna try just stopping down
Trying to get a sense for if Iām chasing a white whale at this point
so thats backfocus and not tilt?
Tilt is nearly nothing
huh
The triangle view shows that Iām basically a perfect triangle
yeah
Octagon here shows 4% tilt
A little to the right but Iām not going to fuss with the tilter, for fear of messing up what I have
right
so adjusting backfocus is basically just adding or subtracting very small distances?
like cant i just stop down seperately to take my stars?
You can
My worry is I want my nonstellar as sharp as it can be
I donāt want to get too deep in my project before I find out I could have gotten nonstellar even sharper
I can always take f4 stars
i see
So yeah all idk if you think my nonstellar is good enough given the stars I have in those corners
Like am I at subjectively diminishing returns chasing it more
im just going with what i got lol, i donāt have experience with adjusting back focus or anything so i honestly couldnāt tell you
My lenses produce CA anyway 
Ill try āperfectā backfocus atleast once. Think i have a minor tilt to deal with though
Stronger will to image targets over tinkering. Maybe next full moon
I think Iām close enough that I can bail on my minipc and do it with asiair and copying subs over to my Mac to peek at quick, less temperamental. Will try out one more shim to see how it looks
After that not wasting more time missing out on sadr
sadr was very awesome to image
I think the the corners or sides are not as important as the middle if you frame the target where it should be, middle 
Ha yes
But stuff I seem to be interested in is so big it even fills up the shot at 135mm
think you will be fine too if you mosaic with like 20% overlap. can sleep well
WIP but god this area is cool
starless, before anything downstream of that
this is going to be fun, going to get at least two more days of it
@shell wasp what did you do for gradient removal on this one how can you even with this much structure around
actually ABE did a pretty good job evening it out, lol
i mainly did a dbe on the left and just in between the dust as best as i can
kinda these areas
are you enjoying the filter?
i know man
its totally worth it for fast optics
and the "slow" one is a 2in1. goes straight into the refractor too
Iām going to keep the slow version which I believe still works up to f2
i think there is no astro sharp lens sub f2
the crazy fast 85mm lenses probably need stopping down to 2 or 2.8
Yeah and honestly 2.8 is still lightning fast
Noodling around with just uv/ir cut at f/2 - this is about 36 mins of data
Bortle 7, last night
EAF really helps at f/2
Think Iām gonna keep trying to broadband it for a while just to see what happens, maybe break out the NBZ to add Ha later
And maybe use the NBZ stars as a luminance mask for the RGB stars to tighten them up
broadband looks really nice on that region
so the faster your scope is the more likely it is to have halos š¤
That's amazing for bottle 7! Same as my skies, how did you do that in this moon under b7?
whatās your rig btw?
Man bold move with half moon still up!
Just used the Rokinon wide open with 15 second subs!
Roki 135 in a redcat ring, 183mc pro, cem26
Yeah definitely some nasty gradients
Wowsers 15 sec subs. That must have been one heck of a stack jobš
Nice work though, how much data are you going to shoot for?
Depends on the weather! Maybe about 3-4h. I need to figure out how to get Nina to loop through panels of mosaics (maybe 30 minutes per panel at a time) so my exposures are similarā¦
Yeah I was wondering how to do that. Seems like you would have to manually add them or do all of each panel sequentially?
Yeah. Iād have to use my brain. Lame. Ugh.
I really paid the price not doing something like this with my veil mosaic earlier this summer. Shot 4 panels over 14 days, each time the same order. First one of the night had such a brighter background than last at near zenith
was able to tame it with some extremely aggressive and time consuming masking
my thought is set up a plan with different orders of the shoot each night so at least each night a different goes first and last etc
Smart!!
Got 45 mins of m31 same night after Cygnus went behind the treesā¦. And the moon came up moreā¦
Hmmm, there's a setting to normalize the BG when you combine mosaic panels. What program you using?
Pixinsight, I used the PhotometricMosaic approach, it worked much better than the older mosaic method
But at the end of the day, capture approach matters most
It made the problem be workable rather than impossible
I'm considering just getting this https://agenaastro.com/idas-night-glow-supression-filter-2-mounted-ngs1-m48.html to have a parfocal filter that also does UV/IR for 'broadband' so I can quickly switch in and out filters in the drawer and use the same back focus
this is parfocal with the NBZ -- normally don't really believe in a "light pollution filter" but going to be a pain to rotate everything all the time i want to grab bb stars
how critical do you belive the rgb stars are in terms of backfocus if you stopdown for sharpness
i dont know how much you can stopdown from the front though
I mean I can always override the 52mm ring on the front by just going lower than it at the back I assume
could go all the way down to 5.6 and see if they're clean
wanna know the perfect solution? š
for just stars, I guess that's a good point
i know im evil
"just buy a 2600"
i completely sunken you to a deep psycosis now
its a damn hassle though. need to microwave the dessidant tablets and stuff
when opening the completely dry and sealed bit where the sensor lies
ohhhhh I see what you're saying
uhhh i would not want to do it unless i 100% needed to
no not going to mod my 533
yeah
i dont know why it ships full spectrum when the IR sensitivity is not amazing
goddamn it
now i kinda want 2mm and 2.5mm clear filters
since my cam is uv/ir cut
i shot myself in the foot instead
i also thought about making a custom filter from a empty filter cell
but idk, placing 2x sheets of glass ontop of each other creates this funny effect i forgot the name off
need to be air spaced
@mystic loom what should i image today
im abit ill so im still contemplating to try allsky PA from my south facing balcony or lug some imaging gear to a field
idk if i should try 135, 200, 288 or 518mm with the 533mc
so far i dont see any clear weekends so im not going to a darksite. this already sucks to go to sleep at 2-3am and work next day
i'm still working on my sadr region and california nebula projects
i have a plan that does sadr until around 230-3am when it's too low and then switches to CA nebula until astro dawn around 430am
I think I have all the data I need for gecko
Hoping to get star data for 4 or so projects tmr
North america just needs stars, and heart and soul needs roughly double the integration it has now
I think this is fine
Neat - whereās gecko at?
First draft of broadband 2 panel mosaic around Sadr. Will likely redo it like 15 times. This is with about 30 mins per panel. Remind me never to do a mosaic againā¦
It's not really visible in the ha lol
This is rgb
It's the bright dust in the center
Ah! I see it!
looks awesome
decided to just get that 2.5mm light pollution filter from IDAS
you have sunken deep
LP filters are kind of silly but at the same time I really don't want to fight with rotating everything every time I just want to shoot stars
lol
well I am selling my l enhance
and was going to get an sii sensitive filter but i care less about that right now vs just not having to fuss with my rig every time I switch to broadband
@mystic loom i wasted time trying to bring out too faint stuff from my m27 data.
its just 1hr
and maybe the stars work at 5.6 but maybe they don't and side benefit is now I have fewer subs to contend with in broadband since the exposures will be longer
it brings the noise up when i try bring out the sides
processing something like a galaxy can get kind of crazy with the integrations I need doing it from B7
(this is my rationalizing tone)
id just skip buying a overpriced useless filter tbh
stop down and go for it. its not about 0.2mm when you are alot slower
i was a whole 1mm off with my f4.8 frac and didnt notice
guys can i ask a question plz , my friend has a roki lens , heās so new to the hobby and this is his first image
looks like some stacking issues for one -- like those images are from all over the place in the sky, and then some bad tilt
might be easier to see with a single subexposure, no stacking
is the friend tracked (using a star tracker)?
its not tilt. just straight up trailing
or a tracked mount?
yeah that was going to be my next q
how long were the exposures
30s
i'd say probably double check the polar alignment
if it's star tracked probs something got bumped
yeah , the stuff across the screen tho is weird , the white. bright boxes
30s wouldn't produce trails like that unless you're way out of alignment
Mabye because the camera moved idk
No the alignment was perfect
yeah I'm thinking maybe your ball mount or something slipped
The subs were absolutely crisp
I don't know much about how those work
Yeah
a dslr and a rokinon are a heavy pair
Iād say like I tipped the mount a little bit and that sub ruined it in thr stack
might want to look into getting one of the rings that fit these and mounting it firm to a dovetail bar
Like it could of been literally a single sub
Wym
so what are you using to mount the cam to the tracker
oh nvm you have an astrodymium or one of the clones
Yeah
yeah I'm stumped to be honest
Would you say it was a single sub that ruined it
not sure
he was at f16 , maybe that might of ruined it
how many frames
you can use blink in pixinsight to basically create a gif of all your frames (Process > All > Blink) and that'll let you see if any stand out as way out of line with the rest
f16? 
also yeah if you're shooting at f16 and that's as good as you can do with your copy I'd get a new one
It was my first time and the ring system was covering the f thing
live and learn
Trust me there isnāt
(not even saying that mean, I can't imagine shooting through a drinking straw)
Ngl itās been so clear all day but cloudy at night
oh cool
@mystic loom but would the f 16 have messed it up would you say
so i'd try f.28 or f3-whatever (the stop between 2.8 and 4) just to cut your lens a little slack and remove optics from the variables
Yeah thanks mate
no, f16 would just make your shots uselessly slow (would take you weeks to get a shot done) but stars are bright and if anything the slower you shoot the better your stars should look
Weeks š š
kind of tells me it's ABSOLUTELY not optics
Gahahaha donāt ask why I was on f16 š
what where you trying to image btw
Na nebula
just redo your shoot at f4 or lower
Rate my kitten out if ten š
yeah you're going to want to just throw all those away anyway
When I did it was just a white screen
lower your ISO?
Didnāt really work
I'm less experienced in DSLRs i jumped to astro cam farily quickly
what is your light pollution situation?
5
That's a straight 10
yeah no something else is up then
My nannies is 1 and I love shooting there
lower your ISO way down
W
K Iāll do that
30 second exposure shouldn't produce white
Then it was the iso
unless you're shooting at a streetlight
my backyard is B7 at Zenith and many of the things I shoot rise through a B8-B9 dome, and i'm using 60 second exposures on a more sensitive camera and get normal subs at f.28
Yeah also what mount do you have
mm yeah i get a white sub at 1min at b8
mount wouldn't factor into how bright things get
what is going on with all your cameras lol
it was the old dslr
my astrocam barely bumps the histogram. only stars get clipped
maybe my UV/IR filter missed a quality control check and is actually an L-Ultimate that got mis sorted
got it so it's a dslr thing
should go over the DSLR setup with some nebula photos video
yeah I'm going to be much less helpful with dslr shooting
too high ISO will make it eat all the well capacity and you get a white sub
I got a crappy one off ebay that had horrific banding and when I realized I was moving to arizona I wanted a cooled camera for summer and got rid of my T3
I have a really good cannon 90D š *howwwww is this happening š *
what was the iso setting then
Uh Iād say it was either 3200 or 800
I think 3200
Also does anyone know of a software like pix where you can see your subs but free
It looks very much like your cam move A LOT. Seems that most of the sub exposures are on the bottom half. Did you look through your subs to see if any of them were off position?
thatās not my can , let me @velvet lark
You can start with win photo viewer. But it's not ideal.
Y whatās wrong with it
Well mine likes to stretch images automatically because its made for regular photos. The OG win photo viewer is hella better. But I believe its not available on win 11.
need the raw codec from windows app store too
Well I sold my l enhance successfully today so even if itās a dumb move itās at least budget neutral lol
I got a new image with the rokinon
Guys is this normal for my Roki so it reaches focus when itās all the way to the right and then it locks and the stars look to be in focus but I donāt know for certain if they are
Like I just hope I didnāt get a bad copy yk
If anyone with a Roki knows it thatās normal please tell me
you might be bumping up on the infinity focus hard stop
going to post a video that explains it
watch the whole thing before doing anything it talks about and only do if you feel comfortable doing this!
What exactly is "Infinity Focus" and what are the potential problems with a hard stop for infinity on a lens? This video also addresses how to modify a Rokinon 135mm f/2 camera lens if you are having trouble reaching infinity focus on the stars.
Screwdriver set: https://amzn.to/2YfTTjc
Magnetic Project Mat: https://amzn.to/3wk7ZwQ
Camera Modif...
Idk I think Iād be too scared to do it could I just send you a picture of some stars with the Roki (tracked) and you might know if I need to do it
the issue is that you're going to have multiple variables that come into play here, but largely the best way to tell is if you're running with an autofocuser and your parabola curve of star sizes flatlines, it means it's likely hitting the stop before its reached the minimum, this is how I discovered the issue on my lens (and fixed it)
but upload a tracked image of 30 seconds at what you think is focused (use a bahtinov mask if you don't have an autofocus)
oh please stretch it and save to png
Whatās that again and if itās like a processing thing idk how to do it yet someoneās else processās my images
But also when Iām looking at my subs when shooting the stars look sooo good
Like thereās no way they could be out of focus
Like when it goes fully to the right thatās when it seems to be in focus
Like Iāve never felt like from looking at my subs *oh god thatās out of focus yk like it always looked really good but I was just worried about it focusing at the very end of the rotation
what software do you use to process
like I said, I can't really tell without a stretched image
it's a good idea to just jump out and give a shot at learning siril for yourself too, you'll be able to troubleshoot things better if you're doing some of that rather than depending on someone else - here's a video on how to stretch in Siril
Welcome to bite sized series! Here's beginners astrophotography tutorial on how to do background extraction in SIRIL
š Support the Channel šŖ
š¤ Become a member https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRxDxlGtGTlUf6b3qeU0y1g/join
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#astrophotography #astro #siril
watch that and try to stretch your image, then save it as png not jpg and i'm happy to take a peek!
@velvet lark Just open histogram transformation in the dropdown menu and let it do an autostretch
Uh I will tmrw atm when i try to do it thr pictures look al cubic and glitchy because it says my camera is in use and itās getting late where I am from so Iāll do it tmrw
Foraxx or natural palette better?
i think natural looks better, could use some sharpening too imo
Tks! I like your avatar icon thingy!
I also need more data - itās only 30 mins per panel
how many panels?
are these stars out of focus
Because @mystic loom thatās the max focus I can get
Hey honestly itās hard to see without a stretched clean image ā it could be anything without seeing it that way
I think I see some astigmatism but itās hard to tell
That might not be a focus thing itself and might just be a quirk in the optics of your lens you can get around by stopping down a bit
Check this tutorial out about stretching a capture #1059854397301063740 message
Welcome to bite sized series! Here's beginners astrophotography tutorial on how to do background extraction in SIRIL
š Support the Channel šŖ
š¤ Become a member https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRxDxlGtGTlUf6b3qeU0y1g/join
šBuy gear via this link: https://bit.ly/3trCb8O
#astrophotography #astro #siril
Yeah Iāll do that
Also I donāt know but is andromada trailed
Like thatās my first and my most recent image
Or is it just digicam control because this happened last time and when I stacked it it was centred
stacking will align it
You certain because Iām scared
Itās like an hours footage
Iāll cry if itās gone
š
What are they
just stack it and see
Ok
