#Rokinon/Samyang 135mm discussion
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I wanna make sure I'm right on this, but does ZWO include 12v power for the camera in the box?
I heard they don't, but it amy have been older cameras
Nah
They don't lmao
Tf
Idk where I heard they include the power supply but nvm
they include everything except 12v
I've been sitting here thinking that was one of the improvements...
Why is it so hard to include a power supply that is needed to simply run the cooler that you've already paid for.
Phone manufacturers be like:
Mhm... Smh
yeah for 800 dollars thatās stupid.
only reason id choose one over the other is the usb hub on the back of the cam, p1 has a single usb c iirc and zwo has 2 type a ports
USB C seems kinda dumb really, most astro stuff hasnāt left usb 2.0 so why swap to c
This was the deal when USB c first came to consumer tech
Hopefully it'll be more widely used soon
Well see
All player ones stuff that would connect to the camera is usbc I believe
Filter wheel etc
ah, then its not that bad then. my only complaint then is that usb c is more fragile than the large b connectors. (to be fair I've had both break)
More fragile? I find usb c much more robust. Aside from the sods law of trying to put the usb2/3 in backwards nearly every time as sods law dictates š
I have a question about the samyang 135mm. If the temperature changes during the astro session, do i need to refocus?
Yes, but it's pretty forgiving. I ran sessions through the night where the temp changed 3 or 4 degrees c and didn't refocus and it was fine
Ideally if you have a eaf you would regularly
with usb-c i could have so many more ports in the asiair mini 
also easyer to plug in.
i need to paint a dot to old cables to see the orientation
Will a USB dew heater help?
I used one but only to protect against dew. Not sure what it did re the focus, but like I said it wasn't really an issue. Best thing to do is run a session and see what your focus is like after a couple of hours?
Focus shift at f2 is no joke. There is plenty when the lens is cooling down to ambient
Should hold when the temps are steady
I found that a dew heater makes the lens behave nicer to ambient temp shifts
I always set up in the daylight and it had cooled to ambient by the time I started imaging so I guess I never saw this. As I said 3 or 4 degrees change during a session didn't cause any issues
Whenever its out of focus? You can see for yourself. Totally depends on the temperature changes and your lens. Like I said I never had to during a session throughout the night
i had alot of problems when i take out a room temp lens out of the bag and start to image
with a bathinov mask its a pain. EAF setup is total bliss
Yeah mine has always been out for hours before starting
i wanted to start putting my kit in the balcony to cool before i go out
not needed with eaf
it just does autofocus like twice in the first 30mins
focus before PA, focus after framing target, then temp/hourly autofocus
while watching netflix
zero out of focus subs 
before that i had to delete alot of data 
drift was bad for me
check this out @worthy grove https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/677128422580944907/1135144064367464458/Stacked10_FOV_500.png
this is a sigma 100-400 zoom lens test untracked. round stars 
10x 0.5s subs at 400mm
i loved the finding target at 100mm and then zooming in for framing 
Looks great
Looks promising. Have you done any full sessions with it?
nah, astrodark is slowly coming in august
only did some fooling around from my balcony
mid next week is the comeback of nautical dark
gonna put the dual narrowband in and try some Veil etc with the canon 200
well Iāve had two USB C ports break on me and only one regular b break⦠to be fair the two USB-C were minor and didnāt break on my 1600MM pro that Iām about to send off for repairsš
USB-C is def the future, but it's not 100% ready yet. Almost there tho.
There are crap usb-c and the nice tighter fit ones
I hate the ones where half the connector sticks out and wobbles 
You know with the Roki if you take a picture of a nebula can you kinda crop the image to zoom into it if you get what I mean
yesā¦
Uh
You can crop any picture you like, not specific to the lens used?
No, you would just have less picture, If you mean zooming in further, as long as your resolution can support the zoom then its fine? Its all about the resolution
What res are your images your want to crop?
i mean youd lose resolution obviously
I havenāt used my Roki yet I got it today
Wait so just to get myself clear like my Roki doesnāt zoom so basically align my self with the target which would usually be a nebula and then I take mabye a 10 second exposure and because my lens is so good at collecting light I should see the nebula
Dont worry about zooming, it doesnt matter with this lens. Also yes, youll point your cam and lens in the general location of what you want to shoot, take short test exposures to make sure your target is framed up to your liking and setup your sequence for the night. Depending on your mount try using longer subs like 1 to 2 min sub exposures.
Ok I got you so itās basically a light bucket
and it doesnāt need zoom but what about super faint nebulas and also I want to image the andromeda galaxy and Ik the Roki isnāt for galaxy images but it can do the Andromada but it I did so andromeda would I then need to crop
Yea it collects light very quickly indeed, which is very useful for imaging the faint nebulae your talking about. Depending on your light pollution you may not be able to see faint dark/reflection nebulae (usually the hardest targets in terms of nebulae) in one single frame, but with such a fast lens it will provide better results in faster time than slower optics. As for andromeda, this lens will do just fine, you'll have the possibility to get some quite nice detail on andromeda.
As I asked before what resolution are you imaging at? I would have thought 135mm would be fine for most camera resolutions for the Andromeda galaxy. It's massive
Stick your camera details into the online field of view simulator and you will get a good idea of what it will look like

New registered shipment to my post app
Roki on its way home
Guess i need to add it to my gear shakedowb imaging night on the friday 11th
also these were taken by my Roki 135 f2 do ye think that they are in max focus because idk if my Roki is a bad one
this is a good copy, keep it
You sure?
Take a sub at polaris in the middle if ur untracked
nothing to say if everything trails 
I have a tracker
So will I do a 30 second exposure on Polaris
well looks like the tracker was not on 
Or maybe the polar aligment was off. But take a exposure at polaris, try 10.15,30
Also click it down to 2.8 and do the same sequence
Hi guys! Here my work on North America Nebula taken with Samyang 135mm f2 and my Sony a6000 original from inner city 75% moon, what you think? Is about 4,2 hours 20 second at iso 400, f2.8 stacked with only dark frame in dss and post process in Siril please give me some feedback iām new in this world šāļø ciao from Italy!
A duo narrowband filter would suit that target, especially in a city
Mhm
McKay š
lol
Even if the camera isnāt modified?
It's only 3,1h into a city light dome, also using an unmodded a6000
Impressive!!
Sorry this image looked really neat so I did lil edit on it
, this your image correct?
If you're interested in the filter let me know
Yeah it is, thanks for the edit xD. The tiff is somewhere under 3,1h on NA o sth
copy #2 from amazon, f2 2.8 3.3 and 4
lmk if you think this is more tilt than lens, or if lens?
(I did a bunch of shots at f2 and 2.8 with a tilt spacer in place at T, B, L, R, TR, TL, BR, BL too but sharing first without)
also how do you stay sane hunting for a copy that is good, this is exhausting, lol
looks like my roki
Stack some of those and the bad stars will only get enhanced more bad
Oof
Do you shoot at 2.8 and then get stars from even tighter? Like 5.6? Or does this point focus issue have noticeable effects on nonstellar too?
Getting the sense this is another returnāI have a cine Iām talking to someone about buying, waiting on their raws tomorrow , and trying to decide if I have another go at the Amazon lottery
How many tries have you all made with these before you found your one?
Never got the memo. 6.41um pixel size hid some of it. Sent mine to warranty. Still on its way back 
But yeah i dont like those triangle comet stars
Yes Iām interested, which brand do you suggest? I looked the stc Astro duo narrowband
Would you check your direct messages please?
wondering how its gonna look if you nail the focus in the middle
idk man, feels like roki's are above 50% bad off the shelf 
my canon 200 seems allright with a 58mm stepdown ring
only did untracked subs since mount still on its way. no astro dark, slight signs of trailing
sun sets in the north so doing subs at polaris kinda meh
(plus balcony faces south anyway)
started to get some red fringing on orange stars, that was focus sensitive. went away with perfect focus
thats around f/3.45
wide open and 62mm stepdown ring looked the same. could probably be fine with dual narrowband

yeah this has me starting to think my next roki is going to be an askar fma180
fma cult, lol
Roki is never going to have absolutely perfect stars at f2 tbh
In my opinion it's worth it for the speed though. You can always retake stars
so on a copy with imperfect stars, you won't notice the field issues in your starless integration?
I don't think you should for the most part, though star removal is a pain
Also I do believe there is a sharpness benefit to stopping down
and real world how far in should I expect to have to stop down on before seeing round stars on an "acceptable" unit? If the one I have here is normal for the real world, what is a normal stop to say "this unit is... nominal" for the whole jam
I'd say this is just shy of being a bad copy, but you could keep it
Its not too bad
It is a lot better than my amazon copy
you mean the cine? I just stretched it, here is a sample
this one seems to be a lot better
but not sure if you all agree! I don't know if this is f2 or 2.8 (or about, since it's a cine) but he shot at 2 and 2.8 for me, not higher f stop equivs
oh I see the spikes, so prob 2.8ish
but that seems pretty good?
Diffraction spikes. Is that with a fullframe sensor?
I'm rolling a smaller sensor anyway, so that vignetting wouldn't be as big a deal for me
Sony ILCE-7m4
in the header
sending you two subs
one fullframe 2.8 and one f2 with 533mc
fullframe 5d mk2 broadband
f2 533mc dual narrowband
same lens.
the smaller pixels MURDERS the optics
another from his set of samples
even though the narrowband makes stars tighter
stacked up that heart&sould could not have been saved.
it only increased the weird starts to a point where blurx had no idea what to do
starx left the comet tails in
so IDK, this cine looks like it could be better than mine, at least at an acceptable 2.8
lmk what you all think
here is the few subs stacked
it only amplified the stuff for me

but for my lens, it did not improve with stopping down
i did f4.5 or something marks chain, all the areas affected had probles, just less effect because of slower light gathering
as if i did a faster sub or something
my filter kinda shifts colour when its angled. the corners in focus are different shade 
this looks great though. if you use a smaller sensor like ur 533 it should be mint
i hope
kinda like, ur not using the edges of the light cone at all yea?
exactly
the smaller pixels might show some weirdness, but overall i think it should clean up
or narrowband filter makes small stars not appear and larger ones tighter
also, the whole frame is in focus, so you can do the trick with imaging stars broadband stopped down, swapping a filter in and blasting nebula data much faster
which Im used to doing anyway with my regular refractor, because I hate the color of NB stars
im gonna do that myself. got a extra filter slider to my drawer
so that one looks like it might be a buy?
well actually i got a filter drawer for my newt/frac and just borrowing the slider
yeah id go for it. what do you think @short charm
argh i want to go imaging too 
so hyped up
mount in belgium customs, astrodark in 23rd of this month
2 weeks 

my roki arrived in country now
should get it this week
im actually really curious if the professionals made it a razor sharp imaging weapon
So it probably will be fine for up to 4/3, but aps-c and full frame isn't good here tbqh. The stars really look like seagulls at the edges, but it may be fine closer to center. Unfortunately there's no tracked data, so hard to tell if the stars are trailing vs actual aberrations. I'm assuming that he shot with a full frame?
shot with full frame camera
he took them on a tracker:
"alright let me know if that works.
files 1-5 are f2, the rest are all f2.8.
like i mentioned before, same star in all corners, and focused on the dead center to start the series no refocus in the corners. used the same method on the 30s exposures. unfortunately i think my alignment after the first exposure got a little off i dont think my ballhead was up to task last night. but the slight trails wont affect the stars overall look. a few of the 30s exposure seem to be a little brighter than the others, thats for sure because the star target in those is closer to the horizon and lp and moonlight hit those exposures harder. but exif is exactly the same as the others, no change.
Let me know if you want to get it that way i can box it up and mail it off for you first thing tomorrow! "
i shared the ones that seemed to have far less trails
@short charm i was thinking about this
Jpg compression really hurts the analysis
533 would be jamming with that probably?
That's the one I was looking at, and it's hard to tell on the aberration part at the edges of a guesstimated 4/3 sensor region
I think only fullframe vignets that much
Yeah 533 would be fine prolly, but idk fully yet. CA doesn't seem noticeable, but the star shapes are weird and I wanna know if that's from the blades or actually lens defect

this is how i imagine bortle 1 milky way naked eye
the uploaded version are pngs @short charm
Yeah looking rn, thanks!
thank you!
Hmmmm the star shapes are ok, there's a bit of a backfocus problem it seems, but that's solvable. Some stars do have a bit of purple tint to them btw, but it's not too bad and you can fix it in post. Also maybe just pmcc will do the trick. I'd say that's a decent copy yeah
enough to end the hunt you'd say? It seems like this can just go on forever looking for the perfect one
I suppose one could go absolutely nuts and buy 10 of them at a time but I am not that person
Yeah it's hard cause there are so many variables lol. Also, smaller pixels will definitely hurt a bit, for example I'm not using my copy with the 533, as the quality difference with my 4.7 micron DSLR is insane
I'd say that you can end the hunt here, it is a cine though, so be sure to tape the aperture ring lmao
as long as its basics are in more or less the right place it seems one could shoot stars even at like 5.6 to solve for that, no?
Yeah, I just don't like the spikes from the ring š
I have step down rings
That's why I have the step downstairs on mine
And yeah, you should experiment with those cause I had very good success with those on mine
But yeah, I'd say you'll be happy with it if you grab it
it looks a little wide for that but looks like it should fit under the ring system itself without drama
i have a pulley ring that came with my ring system that might need some tape shimming to fit it but that shouldn't be too dramatic
being an astrophotographer I have 900 feet of gaffers tape just lying around
yeah i guess the cine stuff is fine. just the aperture ring needs tape
thank you for all the digging on this with me!
its fun
also. i get to take notes when someone else points out some 200iq stuff
like @short charm with the stepdown rings having a possibility of being slightly better sharpening effect than internal blades 
i do still wonder if its about the front element not perfectly corrected for the shallow angle light and stepdown rings actually work in that case better 
diffration spikes suck though. reason enough
Nah that's a follow focus gear iirc, but there's several models for that gear to an eaf on tinkercad and other places
That's my thought there too, cause my lens needed to be down to 4 before matching my 58mm stepdown ring iirc
so I'm using this ring for it:
And yes, that's my reason lmao
the placement of that gear seems like it won't get in the way of the belt with the pulley in place
Yeah you can do that still, just may be right to put on that pressure fitted ring
actually today at work i wondered if a stepdown ring and internal blades combined at same setting would give improvements
and yeah I have the pressure ring too
just for sharpness
and i figure if there's a gap I'll just tape to fill it
but my understanding is the rest of the chassis is the same so the holder rings match up the same
Think that's not as helpful, as you may be reducing far too much with that combo
like an astrodymium could be used on cine or regular either way
That's what I think as well, just the smaller ring may get in the way when you have to slide the ring on
Keyword may
i think its the only one that would fit good the cine
the redcat ring most definately wont fit the cine
are the rings coming back to stock though? the guy was on medical leave
found some cool dew heaters 
ts-optics sell a 12v dc dewheaters with a dimmer in the cable. and its like, 50⬠total
goes to a 5.5x2.1 plug. no rca thingys needed
Yeah but I like my PPB controlling it lol
dont need a powerbox atm so i went with the pegasus 2 channel dewheater controller
luckily it's a hinged design so no sliding involved
im only gonna use 2 bands max anyway
I was talking about the ring that has the gt2 teeth on it
Oh, that's good then, didn't know that it's smart like that lol
i think the cine lens that rubber all togerher and it only has the gear for follow focus
I have a similar design I printed, but I'm using a nema14 cause I can connect it with the onstep driver on the oat
And actually that design inspired me to design a similar thing for the redcat lol
dunno if its same diameter. but tape will solve that
Just use some electrical tape and that's it lol
Yeah I assume Iāll be taping it there
my final layer was self adhesive velour and then focuser gear ring
if i had wrong settings and hit the end. it would slide
oh clever way to keep from destroying your lens hah
it does not take much to turn the focuser
also over tightening the gear to it will make it squish
Also our favorite lens manufacturer branches out to make ramen that will hurt both ways
people flocking here "check my blood pressure did i get a good copy"
purchased, may the photo gods be generous
@chilly ingot I think Im gonna finally get some rings for the rokinon and try and start AP again
What pains me though is the fact it's going to now be a slower system
Didn't you sell Roki?
no..
Ah you still have it
I'm not allowed to sell things zegery
Maybe roki today 
Why not some sigma action 
impossible without go-to
Wdym, frame at 100mm then crank it up
Its not that easy

firstly
to move my dec axis I have to untighten and tighten the bolts that hold the camera onto the top of the mount
They're a bit flimsy and its not smooth
Ah i see. SGP things
So if I wanted to do 100mm and zoom into 400, I'd have to get the target dead center at 100mm which is near impossible
not to mention the fact since the lens has a bit of a dark maximum aperture, short test subs show nothing but several stars
I think I would really only feel comfortable with operating it on a goto mount which I can't afford
Have a good day 
Oh I thought that said leaving for work sorry
@short charm roki feels good now when fooling around with dslr's focus peaking
whole frame pops into focus at the same time
need to wait and see with stars though
Woot!
UMi also cleared customs and should be traveling through EU mainland to my door finally 
@mystic loom if my roki is great now. the next common method to get a good copy is sending these to a service center š
... if its good 
wonder how much it will cost to do it out of warranty, ha
but I'm hoping that getting a used one is enough in my case
i got 3year warranty on this
oh nice
and the law says something like, they need to get a opportunity to fix it, As they did
if it fails, then its replaced to a new unit
if its still bad, i get money back
ohh the EU
the faults needs to be the same i guess
but if there are multiple ones with same unit, it should be replaced etc
and the time limit to fix it is 2 weeks
EU things
i'm hopeful that with enough love and care mine will be good enough for me - if it plays too mean with my small pixels on the 533 I'll prob pick up a modded t3i and make it a dedicated unit for super wide shooting. Taking darks again would suck, but could be cool to have a dedicated dark site travel rig for wide shooting
if that still fails, I'll probably sell that and my existing medium FL scope, go hollywood and buy a redcat, lol
i was thinking about getting a really cheap dslr
just to mod it and maybe add some cooling
it's funny how much when I got started I thought 344fl was too wide for me
turns out all I want to do is see all of rho in a single session, lol
takes so long to beat the zoom obsession out of you in this hobby
yeah. its cool to image something inside a nebula and stuff with bigger scopes
but widefield is as awesome too
super widefield for me is troublesome. i cant resolve any dust. so the background goes into a noisy goop
I mean I have a 6" SCT I have been meaning to shape up into a zoomier shooter (it's right on the verge of what is recommended with my AM5 so have been nervous about sinking money into it yet)
i might pack this up and go to a darker place to image widefield at orion or something
but usually its quite cold when its up
isnt it possible to get a reducer for those to gain some speed and its probably still good for galaxies?
i'm not super into planetary nebulae yet so haven't been rushing on it
might get it collimated and ready for galaxy season
yeah they recommend under 1000 fl for FL and that's exactly what mine reduces to with celestron's .63 reducer I have
if its too cold to carry around a 6" f4 newt i might image the galaxies around ursa major with the sigma 100-400 lens. probably too slow
past new year ursa major is like.. straight up for me
but globular clusters, definately going with the zoom lens
dont' want to push the limits of the am5 so soon after getting it, i like pretending it's basically unstoppable and nothing can phase it
don't want to break the myth just yet
have of course also considered in a few years just going insane and getting the hyperstar for it and obviating all this other stuff
but they seem fussy and annoying
yeah. it actually sounds too good to be true
i want a C6 just because of that. having a reducer and then maaaybe getting a hyperstar for it
having to deal with a possible f2 tilt issue. keeps me up at night
they're nice middle of the ground scts, still portable
My friend has the 9.25 and while they're cool it's a LOT of scope if you don't live somewhere dark
i mean all SCTs are portable but still gets to be a lot
i think the big aperture f2 system would be great for what i want to do
like. with this light pollution i need to image 25x more than people in b1-3/4
what is your bortle?
oof
wanting to move 
remembering when i was a kid in a small town
the stars cast a shadow in winter
the place is now b4. i have a feeling it was way darker in the late 90's
like. the 4nm duoband filter that works great with f3.6. i kinda want that for this bortle
this idas is only like 12nm
@chilly ingot let me know how the rokinon is when you test it
i will 
@twilit hound weather is being bad and unstable
@twilit hound @short charm sending some stretched jpgs. i aimed the bright star in each corner.
the whole field might not be amazing with the corner shots, since the balcony glass might be interfering the other side
but the one where its centered should be ok
this is f2.8
with the f2 subs i had bottom left out of focus. i missed critical focus by a hair
with f2.8 i nailed it with the bathinow mask
only 0.8s subs ISO1600 24.2mpix aps-c
f2 raw subs inc
bright star in the bottom left, i focused on that. then bright star on middle = focused on that. all f2 subs, iso is higher
the bayonet fit feels bad and i had a ef - eos-m adapter on. so double tilt. Should improve with the m48 thread's instead of bayonet 
f2.8 raw's
Not going to be able to look tonight but can do a quick glance if you upload pngs instead?
sec. doing the 2.8 and 2.0 middle ones quick
f2 focused middle
f2.8 focused middle
my quick setup is far from ideal on many things. but i guess this is usable with a filter on and solid mounting
@gusty rock analyze and gain +1 blurX favour 
Maybe a tiny bit of backfocus or tilt on left side, but otherwise I'd say it's good at f2!
subs are short tho. but ye it can do f2 with stopped down stars
the backfocus can be my astromod.
goofy question for folks who use the bayonet canon ef drawer and an asi camera : does it end up threading completely upside down if you have no add'l spacers other than the 11mm neck? if I want the drawer to point up , the camera is upside down; if camera is up, filter drawer points down inaccessibly
Thatās just a sgp moment swsa would be easy to do
Mine is maybe few degrees off middle and with other camera its slightly more. But upside down? No
Dead middle sucks actually, hits the guidescope when i want the slide out
Well hopefully the cine I got has just enough need of backfocus spacers that I can orient it differently lol
Small shims do actually clock it quite abit
Yeah my 0.3 shim usually does about 90°
Other options could be getting that bayonet adapter and seeing how my blue fireball drawer Iāve had before getting this setup does
Arenāt these all threaded the same? Am I doing something wrong come to think of it?
Think you got lucky actually
If you shim lets say, 0,5mm if you have a 1.5 filter
The drawer or cam clocks 2/3 turn
and voila, its probably great
0.3 shim for a basic 1mm thick filter is under half a turn
The thread pitch is 0.75mm
I never asked for your opinion
@twilit hound did you look at my roki tests
astap tilt inspector is going wild with it. But i feel like is slightly better maybe
Few things i want to try though
Yeah I think it's definitely better than the old
I would keep it and just shoot with it now, maybe do f2.4 and crop the corners slightly, you'll be doing great
Thoughts? Which would you all say is better?
left
I want to try some longer exposures and more solid mounting
You can always retake stars separately as well
left has better contrast in the dimmer dust
Yo I gotta reprocess mine now dammit, Dadillo and Rust are scaring me
I wasn't incredibly happy with it to begin with.
Left I like
so I'm toying with picking up an old modded dslr as an alternative for just going much wider with a single shot than my 533 might allow and just having it as an add'l alternative
I have the option of the same model with some assurances that it has no tilt, that's still fairly desirable no? Dust is removable by the pros and probably much easier than fixing tilt?
Its alive
Dunno if the cheapy aliexpress dewshield is good that threads on. Heater goes on well now
going to move this buster over to ask a nerd actually
custom lens hood?
its from aliexpress for a few dollaros. threads on to the filter threads
flocked and its aluminium

its 8.42⬠atm including VAT
theres also a longer version, sec
10,53 with VAT 
@twilit hound the william optics Z61 front cap also fits this perfectly.
very interesting
Didnāt ask for my opinion but u talk in a public chat, nice one, I also didnāt ask for ur arrogance :/
I have the cine personally, there is just one big big issue with it
Unless you use stop down rings, you must retake flats every time you change the apature. It's next to impossible to match it up perfectly every time, and even just a tiny miss match in the f ratio between an image and your flats will cause the flats to not properly correct
i have rings, plan on ignoring the dial entirely
amazon, got a set that drops down to 26mm
76mm right?
I don't know the exact diameter lmao
Let me know how those work for you
they fit on the non cine i'm returning starting at 77
Then they'll work
77-72-67------>26
I would really like to 3d print some, but I don't see a model
Tbh I could probably just design one
I got a 77-58 ring, it's very matte, so hopefully will cause less reflections than the generic ones I got before
Haven't tested it out yet
The OAT that is housing my rig is not exactly suited to the insane temps we are having rn
Think ill go with 52mm at first
About f/2.6
Insanity ocd kicking in. Getting a 77 - 52 ring and then kicking it back up with 52 - 77 to use the alu dewshield
I'd try the range first, then decide on a static ring tbqh
Yeah, waiting on a good opportunity to get longer exposures on darker skies
Can see cassiopea now at like 1:30am 
UMi delivery being slooow. Might try the polaris trick with just a tripod
Yeah I'd do that first
Perseid this weekend though
All clouded out š¦
why are so many pixels at 0 value 
What are you using to stack??
That is a beyond wacky noise pattern, if that's even what it is
@twilit hound
ok what kind of calibration psycocis are you on now
can you stack with less and see how it comes out
stack with none, then bias only, bias and flats and then bias, darks, flats
use some hot pixel detect when going light on calibration
you might see what is causing it.
25 lights
20 flats
25 bias
not using darks
I am
Alright
good
darks are a waste of imaging time
Is this good?
25 lights
10 flats
12 bias
i usually stacked with just bias only if i could not have been bothered fixing the flats 
well without flats I get the weird donut gradient
@chilly ingot
I had every setting the same
would you test a another stacking software? 
I'm plagued with this curse that disallows me to have success in anything
It seems that way atleast, lol
dss has been super weird for me since the update that made it fast
with my 533 data. it makes a 3008x3008 frame and the pic is in the top left corner using 1/4 of the frame
basicly shrunken
rest is black
weird
@chilly ingot
i stacked with astap once. felt ok since it lets you stack with just bias and stuff
use it all for now. i think the software is being weird
delete the created masterflat and masterbias so it wont use it again
just dunno how it is subtracting that much off the light frames
That's what gave the cursed result
Then wouldnt using less make sense
hence 25 lights 10 flats 12 bias
just tell me what to do man Idk how to do this stuff anymore
honestly. i would stack again with some other program
Ill try siril
if thats cursed too, then its something about the data.
taking new bias with cap on is not that big of a deal
alright im stacking every file, without removing any, all in siril. you good with that?
press go
eyyy. @twilit hound damn it. the bias has some pure white pixels at the spots that turned out black in the result?
is that a question?
im just wondering why its subtracting pixels down to zero value.
What gain are you using? And what fstop
It kinda looks like that time I accidentally used 20 gain on a f7.5 scope with only 10s exposures
It behaved weird like that
ISO 800, f2.8
not caused by the lens. this is something in the stacking process
Hmm maybe a light leak in the bias?
tape down that viewfinder
if the bias is too bright, it will subtract more hardcore yea
Bias seems to be over correcting
@twilit hound what mode are you using to stack the bias in Dss?
Maybe bias hot pixels are kept while they are removed by sigma clipping
In the lights
Thatās just a guess that Iām not sure if thatās how dss works
i was thinking too its some setting with hot pixels etc 
Yeh and the stock script wants darks or else it fails
astap will stack too
I get that too with my dslr data in siril. Some reason it turns out right
I dont know how to add the calibration files
Are you doing this manually
The auto script needs a home folder in the root directory of the data and then you need folders: lights, flats, biases
Not bias.. biases
probably will fail since there is no darks. Dont like siril training wheels
Idk
my folder is named biases
I've never done this before sorry
when I click on the bias section to add the folder it just opens nothing
I cant hit the button to add it
siril makes no sense to me. its a dumb program. never succeeded doing it manually and probably never will
when astap?
ill have to download it
its just few megabytes
which do I download
Make a new folder. In that new folder, create folders called "lights" "flats" and "biases." Make sure to set the home directory to the new folder (press the home button) and run the "osc preprocessing without darks" script
You might need to download the preprocessing without darks
You don't have pix do you?
that script is not stock isnt it
Nope
I dont have that script
It's on their website somewhere
Ill just try astap. stench recommends it
Just look it up and you'll find it. Super easy to install
What have you been using?
I was thinking that but wasn't sure with all the other options thanks
It redirects me to this @chilly ingot , I'm on the right path right
yes click green thingy
yeah and windows will warn you too to not run a not-signed thing
The files aren't being written in the file explorer
alright, lets just do astap for now
add bias to dark flats in astap. its the same
Ayo chilll 
PIXINSIGHT MASTERRACE
Astap is less intuitive imo
you can add subs and literally press go if you want to
There is no bias tab
SiriL with scripts is fast and more integrated with hella more features. It's getting very close to one stop shop for processing. Not quite yet tho
add them as dark flat
done, everything is added, now what
stack check marked images I assume
dont know if there's anything I need to do before that though
Ngl siriL would have been stacking the images already.
.-.
its not intuitive as a first timer to do the folder structure and set home folder etc
search for custom scripts
when the actual program is not telling that anywhere
It's stacking
Also astap stacks were a lil iffy when I compared them to SiriL. But of course I could have been doing something wrong.
Oh wait did Caphe not have all calibration frames
no.
Ahh ok
I dont shoot darks
Yea the script for preprocessing no darks is hella slow for some reason
me neither. darks are a waste of time 
Idk why but it takes way longer
I cant say the same
It saves my images
From walking noise
If I can match the temp properly
Again that DSLR life lmao
my cam's dark current is less than the readout noise. it cant subtract anything
so it will just do damage
with light pollution noise it just changes the epic noise to a different shape of epic noise
Yea my XSi in 80 deg temps is well... Less than ideal.
Astap is eating my ram alive right now

What cam are you using Caphe?
60d
???
How. I added all of them into the flat dark tab
It failed stacking @chilly ingot
when are you going to burn that computer
does it need to be ran as administator or something
wanna try the siril script
Yes
done
im gonna have to go for a minute anyways
then restart siril. you need to have the new script file in the directory
set home folder to the place where you sorted out the data.
find em and in this view when you see the folders. dont select any of the folders and just press open
then you run the new script in the blue script menu
i gotta get ready soon to go watch the Perseid meteor shower
When does it peak
done done and done, doing this now

its still working
this is extremely slow
it just started star registration
i started about 35 minutes ago
computer keeps freezing
Computer almost crashed
pedal harder
ill try some untracked milkyway with my 50mm lens and dslr while at b4/5 place
2.5s subs, iso1600 or 800.. maybe f4 or 3.5 should be ok 
its only nautical dark though
aiming at deneb for na neb
@chilly ingot It's done, stack is flawless
nothing was wrong with the data afterall, DSS was just being horrific
I dont know what kind of magic Siril did either but the noise straight out of the stacked file is so extremely good
Siril is so much nicer than dss
there's barely any noise
Wbpp is even better lol
what is that
Pix
I'd recommend it for final stacks, not just for testing. It can take >16 hours on large datasets
I think my 25h veil image took ~22 hours in total
Could you run this through BlurX please? I would really appreciate that. if you do do it please set it so that the stars are reduced to single 1x1 pixels, but enough so that the details are very sharp and nice
https://www.swisstransfer.com/d/10b7cf5c-9200-49d1-b08a-111c28e7a689
@chilly ingot
16 bit linear tif, BGE, PMCC, CC, WBC, SCNR, Crop
What target are you working on anyways?
North America nebula
Dslr?
Nice nice
Ill make the colors much better once I'm in photoshop. Right now it looks dull and that is normal
I need to do NaN at some point lmao
The noise is really good. I like Siril stacking now, it's very subtle
I havent denoised yet
Honestly 5 hours would be plenty with duo narrowband and the 533
Easily
Yeah NaN is crazy bright
Only issue here is Ha sensitivity
Ill process it so the blues come out rather than trying to bring the reds back I think
Join the 533mc gang 
It's a stock DSLR thing, Nan usually comes out blue once everything is properly calibrated, whereas the denser regions of Ha still withhold their red colors
My bad the statistics weren't showing what I thought they were gonna show
Was this taken at f2.8?
yeah. f2 is unusable
See 
@twilit hound think i missed abit on target doing untracked on while gazing for meteors
727 subs 2.5s each

I didnt know you were meteor spotting

untracked result better than expected
@twilit hound
@short charm gonna try polaris ifn tonight. the lens is at 44.5mm backfocus atm. dont have the correct m48 - t2 extension for it

or should i just go with the canon 200
maybe i just slap my uv/ir cut in the drawer even though the cam has one stock
@chilly ingot DId you get my ping earlier?
ok found it just now
Wait, your lens isnt an EF or Nikon mount?
ef
its 44mm native but its 0.5 over now. im bringing extra uv/ir cut just incase 
its probably 1mm thick so it it should want 44.3 now so. close enough
@twilit hound my gpu acceleration is not setup atm so this is taking a while
@twilit hound before
after
almost looks like the lens wants a extra mill of backfocus
i made two versions @twilit hound
What filter you using?
can I get one last guidance here? the other lens I was looking at just resent better, tracked shots -- already bought the cine but is this one better after all? This is a nikon non cine. These are 30s shots with a filter on, not sure if that changes the comparison. Are these better or are they not so good that I should go freak out and double buy? No buyers remorse but just trying to make sure I get the best for my ~300-350 out of this effort
the filter used was the "STC multi-spectra filter"
Thoughts on this one?
the f/stops are in the filenames
F2, F28, F4
these are pngs
These are the sellers pics not mine, this is another unit that came available right after I bought the cine, lol
Got to be a clinical term for Rokinon anxiety
idk what is happening. but i think it gets worse as it got slower š
my roki before service would have probably looked "okay'ish" with a big pixel fullframe camera
they are both quite similar. the cine one you bought might get better with the tighter bayonet mounting the filter drawer has. Could tell from that guys sample subs it was drooping
just sliding in a optolong uv/ir cut to extend the backfocus.
looks like the glass in that is 2mm thick
so im basicly 0.16 off
CLOSE ENOUGH
Yeah iirc it is 2mm, so you'll get a .6 add
Did your camera not come with some plastic spacers?
Iirc, there's a .15mm one there
i got it used. no shims in box
You'll need to order some then
i can check if i have really thin ones
got a set of plastic baader ones. think i measured these once
and these are not flat
unless the threads sqeeze em good
one really thin steel one. gotta check what it is. not in its bag
its 0.3mm 
good news is. i can put the 0.3 in with the nbz. then im 0.03 off thats basicly nothing
@chilly ingot Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought when you aren't using a corrector or flattener the Backfocus didn't have to be 100% spot on?
thats so amazing thank you
It's manufactured as an EF mount and its on my Canon camera I don't see how it could be back focus, it should be correct straight from the factory right
We all know samyang workers can drink alchohol while working
the camera lens has its own optical design that is not the same as telescopes yeah. but still has a specified backfocus distance from the mounting flange. it has the same problems as a telescope when the backfocus is not correct
could also say that the rear lens group in the camera lens is the flattener
so ur saying, zwo ships the cameras with these super cool shims? 
Ohhh crap. So Ill get come into focus but it'll look sorta whacky?
And the backfocus is manufacturer-dependant?
camera mount dependant with these dslr lenses
Which do you have again?
Canon EF mount. its 44mm
Ah same
new mirrorless camera lenses are something super short like 19 or 20mm
so they can make giga fast short lenses
atleast i guess
Where do you mount your ir cut filter?
(we use astrocams)
zwo eos filter drawer
i got the telescope version atm sincei replaced the lenses bayonet to M48 threads
hopefully zero tilt 
(so do I)
@short charm oh no. i kinda do need to rotate the camera after a while dont i š
15deg per hour. hmmm. i got no scale markings for that even if i would do it every 10min for a tiny turn
Yeah I have that as well and I believe it works pretty well
@chilly ingot Ya think this is backfocus?
It appears my image isnt debayered 
crisp
new image with my roki
red š
looks cool though
that one does look more realistic but yours would look better to a non-astrophotographer probably cause of the colors
I usually like to do a more realistic process and then a more vibrant edit for that reason
i mean i feel like my process is just too punchy and theres like no background too
it was my first time processing in pix and doing HOO combination so at least I finished it
yeah you could try just doing an inverted curve in the red channel on your current process to get a more neutral color background
definately not enough time on this but yea. not much to do when mount has not arrived yeat
(83mins f2.8)
@short charm one sub is the focus with bathinov mask, second is the sub straight after
what the hell š
V2 
reprocessed my veil, sharper and retained some more detail in the background Ha, also the red and blue look nicer I think
heres the whole PNG
pushed the background Ha a ton but thats my favorite part about this data lol
ok it looks completely red on one of my monitors but has some darker more neutral background areas on my other 
did you break out the channels separately and denoise them separately or all together? Just thinking if you pushed the Ha harder
I think I denoised after recombining them into HOO
decided to use this one instead
The cine I got off cloudynights arrived
Was able to get the EAF belt to work with it with just a lot of gaffers tape
Turns out the surface on the focus ring that doesnāt include that geared part is exactly 1ā wide so can be taped very neatly with 1ā tape
Hope it looks as ok for me in shooting as it did in his test pics
Looks good so far
@uneven compass did you infinity mod your cine? All the tutorials are for the normal oneāyou know which screws to pull?
Mine focused fine out of the box...
@mystic loom is the stop down ring set you bought fitting well?
Yep! Same threading!
A little fussy to seat but once on all good
oh no! it goes on the actual lens "hood" not the dew shield
like not the plastic thing
So you replaced the lens hood with the ring?
Lens hood/dew shield, I never know what to call it 
Haha no in my wisdom I was going to have both on if I use the rings
The one I bought seems to have not come with / the seller lost the original hood, it has a 3d print replacement
Had a monsoon storm tonight so no testing
Not quite sure when I will get out with it, every night weāre getting clouds despite crystal clear daytime
I did this insanity
I got a longer one too
or i can use the stock one i flocked a use the stock lens cap anyway since its stepup to 77
And ofc that hood fits the stock cap too
lol
where did you get this longer one?
are these things standard across brands? is this what I'm looking for?
Yea filter threads are all the same
Same pitch. Just choose diameter that fits
I found a store that sold 2 lenghts
39mm and 78mm long
ohhh these screw on internally on the filter threads rather than on that external bayonet! got it
So basicly i got 77-52 and 52-77 together and then the 77 dewshield. Dunno if its good or do i need to use a longer one
Can always go to stock hood though
But i like that with this i can fit a dew heater better
oh does that step down step up thing give you the ability to mount both the down ring and the dew shield? Having trouble visualizing it but kind of getting the idea
must have threads on both sides
How far can I go with the f? In order to get at least 30 sec subs I was thinking to increase until f5,4 or more what do you think? š thanks š
are your step down rings down there? where do they thread on if the lens hood is threaded onto the lens? I think I might do something similar cause those lens hoods are only a dollar lmao
yeah same I'm really intrigued
also do you have a single 77 -> 48 or whatever f2.8 is, not the graduated rings? Where did you find that?
Hey Folks, would you say that you really need a guiding System and a go to tracker for the Roki 135mm? At the moment I just got the omegon lx3, wonderful for hiking adventures, but can something like this handle the Rokinon?
The swsa or sgp is more then enough u donāt need guiding unless u like really really need higher then 2min exposures but that isnāt really necessary
is this a good copy of a roki lens ? 30s exposures , asking for a friend
Seems ok but hard to tell without full uncompressed resolution
Not a successful sub
Put a 2sec self timer or something if you manually press the shutter button
@hazy copper if you ever get a newt. Buy a 2047 studio focuser from meow. This thing blows my mind
Insane quality
Alright I landed two used rokis to test at my leisure and will sell the less good one
The second one was for a bit cheaper and Iāll admit I didnāt get sample shots of it but the seller on cn classifieds claimed next to no coma or CA at F2 with a full frame
We shall see
At this point just getting two used, testing them both, and selling one is decent peace of mind, lol
Look forward to the clouds letting up!
Almost spat out my morning coffee.
i guess by hoarding roki's you speed up the process of finding the rarest of them all.
If you use the lens with bigger pixels all the way up to older fullframes, alot of the nasty stuff goes away
the small pixel sampling usually murders any hopes of optical quality š
Yeah I don't think I'll be using anything with less than 4.5 micron pixel size on a roki lens tbh, those lenses are really designed with that size in mind
I use the 2.9 micron of the Uranus-c with my roki and it seems fine. I did seem to get a decent copy mind
Mine was ok ish with 3.76 microns, but I could definitely see a tiny bit of CA
I may try again at some point with maybe a better uv/ir cut filter though
I have used both UV/ir and dual NB filters with mine. You will always get a bit of ca though
Not all uv/ir cut filters are the same though, I had some really bad ones at first, and NB filters at that f/2 speed are also not exactly reliable unless you have a wide bandpass or they were preshifted, and idk if I'll do NB on mine tbh š
Yeah. I wonder what is better. 12nm at f2 - 2.8 or 4nm at f3.5 - 4
probably depends heavily on what bortle 
Yup, low bortle you're fine with a wider bandpass, but I'd definitely go 4nm in a b7+
yeah. im gonna stopdown the canon lens to image with 4nm filter i think 
thatās what i do
but 5nm
when i go back to school in the city, iāll test it in high bortle too
then the faster 12nm idas to darker skies. probs more apreture on the canon or roki
but rn im in bortle 4/5 with it
but the dark skies are also great to image the background too so, NB kinda kills it 
mm yeah probably will just uv/ir cut and use dual nb for larger nebulas
.... or the dual nb is actually great for getting smaller stars 
so many options
f2 for faint dust, f/4 for stars 
although the dust is definitely sharper stopped down
My job has a āwellnessā subsidy that lets me basically reimburse 1k of hobby purchases a year so itās not super hurting me to sit on two of them at once , haha
And Iāll be the first to admit a little OCD in this hobby , lol
let me just suggest that to my boss
he will whipout a exel sheet or something and breaking down the annual costs and how much more needs to be sold to cover it 
Lol they basically have me for life because of it - joking, or am I
Other places can give you salary but I get this without being ALLOWED to spend it on something more sensible
Lucky for me the only sport Iām interested in (what this was originally intended for before the nerds asked for things like this) is running
Definitely donāt need 1k in shoes a year
I take that back, but how many bikes can a man own in a car city , and 1k doesnāt get you much once you already own a 1k bike
So Rokinons it is lol
my bikes are way over 1k 
but i dont pay sales margin for em and usually get 17.5 - 15% off from dealer price too. then just VAT on top
@mystic loom when you find the perfecto rokinon
start spending that 1k next year for Canon 200's
or wait a decade and spend it on a canon 400 
theres one used for sale incountry. Would only take 4-5years then 
Hahaha
dont worry, mines probably a red fringing model and stopping it down to 3.5 for 4nm narrowband 
I think the next dumb extravagance will be offsetting the embarrassing cost of switching to mono in a year or two
And automate it
with a flappy flat panel
lum and three channels. Then flats for each one
thank you jesus that modern sensors dont need darks too
I still keep a dark library for my 533
has slightly less dark current than 571
iām jealous of the dragon fly array, they have 48 of them š
casual $600k in lenses
Mine has a similar program, but it's only for subscription stuffs š¦
imagine if one of them has some CA and a another somewhere has slight tilt etc

camera lens owenership facts
no matter if its costs 10k or not
especially if they use full frame cameras 
Canon 200 F2.8 10s sub
Canon 200 F3.22 10s sub (62mm ring)
Canon 200 F3.45 10s sub (58mm ring)
i was only looking at the star size when focusing for each ring 
got a value of 3 for wide open polaris, 2.3 with 62mm ring and like 1.7 for 58mm ring
so that red fringing is a hair out of focus.
L glass goes crazy
what target?
Gecko
that looks really nice, working on veil now and finishing up elephant
and i got all my guiding fixed last night so thatās cool
Sweet!
cool target 
is this mainly broadband?
been looking for a target for the 200mm around this part of the sky
My image was 7 hours of broadband data
Planning on doing some narrowband for it
I'm sure you could find a really nice framing at 200mm, this was taken with a 533mc as well
what bortle?
4.5 or so

Dont have alot of darkness available to get same integration time
i might just try mosaic some milkyway
Booked time at a relative dark site (B3) in January ā Orion neb and Pleiades are obvi targets with the Roki (and rosette) but anything uniquely good to shoot ?
Thinking of doing IFN around m81 and Polaris
Also going to book some b1 time to do rho in June right
January is prime orion time
Let me find what I was planning on doing with the roki and 533 on orion this season
This guy
In the lambda orionis ring near Bellatrix
Lots of ha, and some sweet dark neb thrown in there as well
@mystic loom I'd do the boogeyman if I was you
provided all three nights I'll have are clear, at f2 or 2.8 think I'd have enough time to mosaic the whole orion constellation?
I've also got a canon aps-c modded I could use to do it quicker, but if the stars hold up to it my 533 is obviously preferable
site is bortle 3
m42 and horsehead are obviously bright but I don't know how long you need on the loop or the boogeyman or the thing off near rigel
looks like I could do it in 6 frames with canon at a slightly risky 15% overlap or 9 with 90% and get the thing off Rigel
This is prob a canon job I'm thinking, just don't know the tradeoff here with the higher qe



