#AstroShader: iOS beta testers needed for astrophotography app š±š
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So, a star
or Jupiter or Venus, or the Trapezium in Orion's core
I like using the Trapezium to gauge atmospheric conditions, basically if I can visually separate the four brightest stars in the cluster, it's good seeing.
This is the Milky Way from B6 captured with iPhone 13. 10s exposure and 43 pic, ISO 1600 (ISO was to high a 1000 would be better)
Oooh
That looks great
What was the white balance and alignment functio?
Idk I think k is doesnāt matter. I use 4700
@remote widget Did you set your alignment function to anything?
I keep getting star trails even will short exposures does anyone know why?
I also set the alignment function to strong and still getting results like this
Maybe the tripod is not stable
I donāt fully understand ISO so how come you choose a low ISO when the slider goes up to like 32000
I usually use like 5000+ and am wondering if Iād be better off with a lower number
nothing wrong with the alignment that I can see
focus could be better though
Experiment
With 1000 and 10000
See if it looks better higher or lower
I didnāt work again! Idk why, it was 1s and 1000pic and ISO 32000 and no Horse head at all visible
Same with Plejades
whatd you find out
the horsehead is super dim, its a dark nebula
v1.0.28 just released
This has a small update... Camera white balance is now automatic by default.
If you want to set this manually this can still be done under "Advanced settings"
Hello when is stacking individual frames get added
?
Some time in the few months for sure.
I just need to build a few other things first to make it work
Iāve had this app for a while now, and itās good.
Some things you might need to improve on is the alignment function, because sometimes it doesnāt really align well but most of the time itās good. Maybe also add the ability to increase the maximum amount of exposures. Other than that, this is a very good app!
Thanks for the feedback.
Just wanting to clarify one thing⦠Is this the regular alignment that isnāt working? Or using the realignment/reposition?
So Everything is working for me. I donāt have a tracker
Since i donāt have a tracker i got to realign to get more exp time, but if you donāt align perfectly then the stars wont stack well and youāll have like trails, long ones
The alignment function where you can choose between light medium and strong before you take a picture
But it mostly works itās not a big issue
OK great thanks.
Yes - sometimes it fails. Usually itās when the ISO is high and the setup is using a higher magnification
Ah yes - this sounds like the realignment problems specifically.
Iām going to work on this in the next few weeksā¦
Ah, so realignments are more prone to failing when the iso is too high?
Itās not the ISO specifically but that often it worsens SNR, making alignment harder, usually in combo with a dimmer target.
Especially on older devices.
Whats pixel binning?
Ohhhh ok
It down-samples the image by adding 4 pixels into 1.
Use this for very dim targets.
can u give me an estimate how dim an object has to be to be used? like should i use it when imaging smth surface mag 8+
y not use it always
Mag 8 is bright, 14+ is like more dim
Itās hard to be that precise as it depends on the magnification and the iPhone model/camera.
You can turn it on and off to test as the preview will also be binned
ah always wonder what this setting did
1-2 weeks ago
Bortle 6-7 skies
Thatās very nice!
Idk what again happen I get a very bad picture. It was 10s and 260pic ISO 4600. it was 46min total in b6
Nice shot of Orion and the Pleiades!
Do you have the original?
This looks editedā¦
Also could be worth trying lowering exposure to 2 or 4s.
Generally itās easier to correct if itās a little under exposed vs very over exposed - if this is an issue
I have the original and 30 darks
So this was the original
This was the best edit I could do. BG extraction, black point, levels adjustment, sharpness
I think the light pollution / haze is the main challenge
It might be worth experimenting with lower exposure times and higher ISO. This can be helpful in this specific scenario - due to the way the exposure extension works
Also Iām not sure how much the darks would help if the issue is mainly light pollution
Thx for helping
This is my newest pic right now
1x1000 and ISO 32000
ima go to b4 next week ans ima try to do some wide field
Very nice! I live in a B8/9 but going to a B5 soon to try to get a similar picture
The next release will have a detail editing tool (a bit like wavelets) that might help pull some more stars out for this image
Hi! Any help on this would be great. Iāll show you both pictures. The first one (the better one) is a 30 second exposure picture just using my phone camera app and the noisy one is the the EXACT same exposure and setup in every way taken like 10 minutes apart. I just donāt understand why the one on AstroShader is so much more noisy with almost the same ISO as well. Even after I stacked 750 5 second exposure pics of Bodes galaxy last week using AS it didnāt turn out too good with lots of random noise. But I can get a much higher quality single exposure using my phone camera app. These 2 pics are of Whirlpool
Hey did you take this picture? And if you did what settings did you use?
From bortle 9
It was my pic
10x 260 iso 4600 b6
Oh that is very weird⦠Sorry about that.
That picture looks like a single exposure - and not at all like a stacked one.
Iām not 100% sure whatās happening here. Would you mind DMing / or I can DM - to try and debug?
Thank you!
What was your white balance and alignment function?
Sorry for being a little specific
White balance is off and alignment was light
Ok thanks
Still need an android version š deepskycam doesn't do as well as my default camera app
I DMd you for whenever you are ready š
Comet A/3 Tsuchinshan Atlas against the back drop of the Milky Way November 1st 2024
Taken with Iphone 14 pro in bortle 3 skies
Target for tonight:
Jupiter (looking to capture the Great Red Spot in color)
M81 and M82
*Iāll be experimenting with pixel binning as well to see if it provides better images. Along with this, Iāll try my best to make images less grainy.
Good luck!!!
Only DSO I managed to capture was the cigar galaxy. Star trails were especially bad tonight.
I'm working on an editing tool similat to wavelets. It might be interesting for your jupiter image:
Beta link here: https://testflight.apple.com/join/bZm6rqT1
My attempt to new edit tool
Some great colours there love it
Verdict: I managed to capture the Cigar Galaxy, Bode's galaxy was unsucessful as star trails were very prominent. Tried pixel binning for the first time and I saw the image just became brighter. Slight increase in quality of image. Overall the image of jupiter really impressed me so i'm satisfied!
plz when android
Was the trailing due to the app not stacking properly, or tracking issues, or both š
Tracking issues lol
Iāll attempt to get it more accurate next time
for bortle 7 what would be a good iso
It really depends on the device and telescope.
I would test with single exposures then adjust
iphone 13, no telescope
also im testing it rn and the number of exposures is 15 and the exposure time is 7 seconds but when i choose raw as my format it says itll take 105 photos
why is that?
im trying to process in siril after so i have the photos but when i do tiff or heif its only 15 photos compared to 105
Test yourself
Make sure to dither bro
whats that mean
Move the camera a bit left or right Avery exposure
sorry guys im very new to photography in general, i dont even know what iso stands for š
If y donāt there will be an annoying noise pattern that looks like lines
I get it, I was a beginner too 2 years ago
Just gotta learn
There should be a warning that comes up to explain this.
The reason is that under the hood your iPhone has a limit of 1s exposures. In AstroShader I combine photos to stack up to higher exposure levels. However this is done on RGB images.
If you choose RAW you get completely unedited data, so in your case 7 RAWs (x15 = 105)
so the number of exposures should be 1?
if i wanted astroshader to stack its own + i practice stacking and processing in siril later
Why?
so it doesnt take 105 photos?
7s exposures (so under the hood 7 exposures) x 15 AstroShader exposures = 105
You wonāt end up with 105 photos it will stack them
but if i set it to raw photos wouldnt i have 105 photos to send to siril?
Sorry - yes to clarify op_nickās point - this is only if you save all the subs in RAW
and astroshader cant stack if its raw?
No u will have 1 unless u specifically request to save all 105 photos
It can
AstroShader live stacks every time you shoot.
So will give you a final stacked image whether you choose to save all the subs or not
gotcha
Appreciate that isnāt super clear!
yeah sorry
i only ask because i def dont have storage on my phone for 105 photos
so that means i shouldnt save individual exposures?
or is there another solution where i can do my processing on siril
Ye
If you want to process them in siril you would need to save them to your phone first then transfer them
but that would be all 105 raw photos, right?
What happens when u donāt dither
I think u are confusing him
U donāt need to save all individual frames
Just donāt
maybe im schizo
dont bother processing in siril after? just let astroshader do all the work?
Ye just transfer the photo with google drive to yo pc
Ofc process in Siril
if astroshader processes the photos, how would i process in siril
are the individual photos still available
U can just not process them there and even if u decide to process them there just transfer the processed photo to pic I donāt see the issue
Not if u donāt click the button for it in the settings
before starting to capture
Exactly
but that saves 105 photos
Press off if u donāt want the individuals frames to be saved
if i dont click that option and i click off, then what happens
Individual frames wonāt be saved
and i cant process in siril?
yes
but astroshader would process them?
you need to save the frames to process them in siril
if astroshader is processing them for you its not gonna be good
Why???
does astroshader save the stacked file unprocessed
Ofc yeah
then you dont need to
Bruh
Tiff yes idk abt heif tho
@robust pawn he is wrong u just need to save the unprocessed stack with tiff or raw format (either is fine) and then transfer to yo pc
raw will be a lot better but non raw can work
hold on lemme check something
if i set the exposure time to 7 seconds and the number of exposures to 7, the raw image option gives me 49 images while tiff/heif gives me 7
oh alr
U can set longer
always use raw when you can
I think u could easily do 15 sec
at a phones fov you can do 15s yes
Someone on CN did some tests - thereās not a huge difference so long as the alignment works
Remember to dither
i mean the processing not stacking
i dont dither and dont get walking noise š„
still dither tho
guys im so sorry for being so stupid
youre not stupid youre learning
Ah sorry - yeah the editing tools a going to be a bit limited - fair point
Youāre learning bro h aināt stupid
Not at all!
Everyone on here once took their first images
I was wayyy stupider than u when I first started
Learnt how to stack 2 years into this hobby lmaooo
if i set 15 second exposures and the number is 10 (for example), and i pick raw, itll save me 70 photos
so what happens next
do i have to slowly move my camera between the 10 exposures?
is astroshader gonna stack them after?
How u save 70 if u only take 10 and again y do u wanna save them
to do some processing in siril after
so then dont save as raw?
Donāt save individual exposures
Save the stack
I raw or tiff
And the transfer to pc
There will pop up a message asking u how u wanna save yo stack when u finish imaging
oh alright
i just tested it and i dont have an option to save as raw
only png, heif, jpeg, or tiff
Save tiff
Ye
Ye
Now that your done shift yo phone slightly to left or right to dither
And repeat
Too cloudy, Iām must testing in my room
Would I do one exposure for 15 seconds, save that stack, and then shift slightly?
I think u could do like a stack of 2-3 of them and then save and shift
And by slightly i mean like a few pixels
So this and then shift?
Or have the number of exposures be 1, take 3, and then shift?
Set timer to 3 sec so yo phone doesnāt shake by yo hand pressing the button to stast taking pics
Make sure to post your results here when u get the opportunity to shoot, cant wait to see what u get
Cloudy tonight, might get a good window tomorrow
I can really get good photos of the Orion Nebula just from my phone camera?
Yeah
Damn alright
With enough exposure time you can even get the horsehead nebula but have low expectations bc this is your first atempt
Yeah Iām going for Orion first
Thank you all for your help, hopefully the weather lets me take a crack at it tomorrow
Look how hideous my first Orion was
I bet u will do a better job
we will see
i first have to see if i can get in a good position to see it because my backyard is surrounded by really tall trees
Is it normal for the stacks to come out really bright or is that just long exposed clouds
I took some practice shots and the result was super bright but I think thatās the clouds unless you have any other ideas
Can you send me the stack so I can see?
If you have clouds itās normal but if not lower your iso
I didnāt save it
If it was clouds it would be obvious
Hereās a screenshot I took
I edited it to show you what I mean
But instead itās evenly bright across the entire screen
With mars and the two other stars on the top
Thatās clouds
If no clouds than itās gonna be fine
Play around with the iso to find the optimal iso level
Does it automatically set?
ISO is affects the brightness of a photo.
The downside is the appearance of increased noise.
AstroShader does not set this automatically.
If you change the ISO you will see the preview brightness change, just like with a DSLR camera
no (im the same dude u were talking to before but now im from my pc account)
higher iso means brighter photo but more noise
Gotcha
In other words, ISO also affects the cameraās sensitivity to light I believe.
@lyric river @bold sleet got some stuff for you
im hoping if you guys can help me with this i can try again thursday with 0 cloud coverage all day
dunno whats going on here
the actual photos were normal iphone exposures and the tifs are from astroshader
shorten those exposures
unless astroshader didn't stack correctly
Nah my tracking just kinda sucks lol
Will do
Yeah that definitely helped out, thank you š
What telescope do you use?
M45
10 500ms exposures
v1.0.29 Just released
This contains the new details sliders - in the editing tools
Please let me know any feedback on this.
I'll give you a report on it next time I go imaging!
First photo with my 20x70s
I think any astrophotographer should know what target this is lol
you tell me buddy
M1 Crab Nebula, 1s, 900pic, ISO 32000, I only let AstroSahder stack 30pic and than, I save the image and I did it 30 times and Stack the Images on my Mac with Lynkeos.
M42 for sure. Nice first photo!
you need to foccus corectly
@robust pawn pls tag me fromm this account next time, this is what i use 90% of the time
Oh alright
slide this until stars appear as small as possible
How do
Oh yeah
I got this of the beehive cluster yesterday
nice, try stacking nevt time
Horrible quality tho
But
First images I got of something I couldnāt see with my naked eye
great!
my first pic was this shit
of orion nebula
u know how to stack with astroshadder right?
You can at least tell thats orion
Nope
Got this photo of the Orion Nebula without AstroShader
nice
slide this
this is how much pics its gonna stack
it will take as many pics as you want, combine into 1 and then give u the 1 stacked piic
ye but it automatically aligns
If I get a mount Iām gonna buy a camera
Kk
Right but if the object is flying across the screen and I donāt have a tracker then what
With AstroShader you donāt need one š
Well unless it completely disappears from the field of view
Is there time in between exposures to slightly move my phone or are they all back to back
Unfortunately not - this will cause issues.
Then how would that work
You use the realign function, take a few dozen images, then stop the imaging and realign so your target doesn't go out of frame
Whereās realign
screenshot from AstroShader
When you set that on, it lets you do a reposition interval that tells the app how many photos you want it to take before it lets you realign
Oh so Iād take like 5 exposures and then it would let me move the camera?
What happens after I take all the exposures I need?
yep! But since the night sky moves relatively slowly, you could do a few dozen as opposed to just five per interval.
It stops imaging and stacks all the photos
then you can edit and/or save it like normal
This was 3 individual 10 second exposures and it moved quite a bit though
Oh so the pause with the reposition interval is all under one stack ?
Generally with AstroShader, I find it better to do lots of short sub exposures as opposed to a couple long sub exposures
Yes
You're just realigning the target with your stacked frames
How many seconds and whatās a good iso
It has to be close though
Generally, the more integration time the better. That tends to be true with pretty much any AstroPhotography target. But I always do 1-second sub exposures, and how ever many of them I'm willing to do.
Oh wow that short
So with my Flame & HorseHead image I did nearly a thousand, with my Orion Nebula image I did about 500, and with my Ring Nebula image I did 300.
All one second sub exposures
Can I see the Orion photo
You can see all three
Equipment is the same for all three; Orion StarBlast dob, iPhone 12.
Ohā¦
I donāt have a telescope
Iām as raw as possible
Tripod I found in my attic and an iPhone 13 I duct tape to the tripod
Yes and a monocular
You can use that as a makeshift telescope if you're crafty enough
Taking pictures is so hard though
Oh a monocular would be better
Took so many tries
Do you have an adaptor mount you could use?
Like a phone adaptor that allows you to attach it to an eyepiece or the end of a bino/monocular
nope
Ah ok
i put the monocular on the tripod and held up my phone for a 3 second exposure
you could definitely buy one, they generally aren't expensive
im in the process of buying a dslr and a swsa gti mount
I know Celestron distributes a lot of them, but they aren't good tbh
the one I had broke within a couple weeks of total usage
I currently use an Apexel Phone Adaptor, it's shaped like a rectangle and works fantastic
It was like only $30.00
gotcha
It appears I have suddenly become bad at astrophotography
Umm
I usually extend background extraction to max
Brightness to mid
And strech image 0
Eh all I needed was just to spend a few minutes outside

Wich one should I get? I need a good eyepiece
Oh! I actually have that one on the right, it's a really nice budget widefield eyepiece.
It's the AstroMania equivalent of it, I'm sure it's practically the exact same thing though
not a lot, astroshader can deal with it
I should really invest in a focal reducer, I wanna capture something like that flame and horsehead in one frame š
What exposure time and iso did you use to do this brother? These pics are amazing
I canāt believe the entire time I used AstroShader it had an alignment function lol
I never even knew this
I was still able to take this though I guess lol
Yeah the alignment feature is very important for a good image if youre using astroshaderr
Damn Iām such an idiot lol
I canāt wait to get back out there & try it out now
Luckily here itās clear skies. Only reason Iām not setting up to go out is because I slept funny on my neck and hurt it lol
Oh dam ik the feeling
I used one second sub exposures, the amount varies between targets though. For the Flame & HorseHead, it was about 950 total sub exposures. For the Orion Nebula, it was about 500. For the Ring Nebula, I used about 300.
M 51
100s (with pause an reposition)
Images AstroShader
Processing AstroShader (didnt have the time for siril yet)
any tips welcome especially for this bright ringā¦
The ring can be caused by not correctly aligning the phone to the eyepiece
The dark spot in the center can also be caused by the camera not being close enough to the first element in the eyepiece
Atleast that's what happens with mine, all I do is shift it closer and the dark spot disappears.
When re positioning do I need to take into a punt the 3 sec pause????
I've also wondered this, I always time my repositions with the three second delay rather than starting the imaging right at perfect alignment, but I don't truly know if that's beneficial at all lol
Good questionā¦
At higher magnifications it will matter more.
The problem without the delay is that after you hit ācontinueā there will be vibrations that need to stop before imaging begins, so itās a bit of a balance.
Iām going to start work to improve this at some point soon. Iāll post here when itās in beta and live
Yeah Iām imaging at abt 50 times magnification
Ok thx
I wouldn't do more than 20x magnification with AstroShader tbh
I can do stuff wayyyy above that
Yeah it's possible, but most targets you'll see that require more than 50 power aren't really worth it tbh
Anything smaller than the Ring Nebula and it's a little more effort than what it's worth
mostly due to dimness
iPhone 13, 20s, 10pic = 3,3min total exposure, ISO 8200, b4 sky
Slightly nudge the scope to the side. Make it random. Do it every few subs, abt 2-5.
just did myy final stint with phone and dob ap before getting tracked and using my astrocam, also got m51 and m106 data, ill process when i can
Good! You can see the most of the Galaxy. How much exposure?
about an hour of integration, m101 is dim af
Did you also did it with 1s and ISO 32000
10000iso and 1 sec ye
That Creazy that this galaxy can appear so good! it sb is mag 15 I think and this with only 1 sec subs
sb?
Surface brightness
i think its 14.6
Yes u right I watch it right know
How much magnification u use?
around 40-50
How many exposure u did before realign
I using 25x and I do 20 exposures and realign
newer process
Any suggestions you got for me? Im going to b4 in two days and im still pretty new to astroshader
dont use repotitioning tool unless you shooting something really bright or u wanna lose your sanity
just set exposures to smth that when its done thhe object is comfertably in the fov
Wait wdym
i did smth like 60times 1sec exposures and didnt repotition
and did that many times
and stacked in siril
Ooh
I can do like 200
1 sec
And it will drift from one side to the other of the eyepiece
Depends on the targets location
leave quiite a bit of space
m51 sneakpeak
newer process with blurx, 45 min cuz 50 out of my 95 1min stackks were rejected by siril
not bad for phone
Now that is fire
Yk i wont have much time during shooting or after it to stack
Im pretty busy with school
So i wanted to ask how much better is stacking on siril then livestacking and repositioning
its quick, like 10mins at most
i still use astroshader live stacking, just not repotitioning
Oooooh
So you take lots of 1 min already stacked by astroshader pucs and then stack them in siril
i do 60 second live stacks
yes
Yea very smart
Havent toughy about it
I mean i wont spend more then 30 mins on one target, since i got 2 hours of b4
(Dad got work and clouds are near)
sneak peak of my 25min m106
b4
Oh ok
Me love
i love astroshader
Im exited to test your idea tonight
Ofc it wont be as good as yours
But i want to get some data this galaxy season
Haha wow!!
tryna reprocess it but y is it blueš
thx for the app
At least its brighter
@worn lantern just to make sure this is m101 right?
yeah
And you said its very dim
surface magnitude is mag 14.6
Oh wow
Idek if its worth trying to photograph it
Nice colors
left or right
Left for galaxy right for background
now?/
Right
really? isnt left brighter with saame bg?
finally i processed all my data
Beautiful
how i feel rn
Oh yea forgot you can draw too
insane how magical stacking iis
these are the 1min live stacks
You get so good images, my images looks like nothing much
can i see
Bodes Galaxy 16 Minutes, not much Spiral arms visible
not bad
my best m81 m82 is this 5min one
Yes itās look much better more details
only slightly
I couldnāt even got Horse head in 16min
Really good honestly
I donāt know man, I recently buy a new Eyepiece may its get better results
in grax
Oh alr
Wanna take a look at my data?
yes sugarplum
I will maybe get tomorrow a clear sky, I might try m51 to
Good luck
Good luck!
first time seein u here, are u gonna do some phone astro with astroshader??
I capture m51, it was almost 20min total exposure, 1s and ISO 10000. I think is good. Idk why stars are like comets. Maybe coma or I was not good Fokus.
Really nice
I had the same problem with the stars but corrected with pix
can i see some pics
Sure bud gimme a sec
One is b5 one is b9, I think itās quite easy to tell which is which 
(The blue one is b9)
U can see the winter Milky Way on the b5
It took me a while to realize that the background extraction feature really brings out the details, I didnāt use it at first so I didnāt know I got the winter Milky Way
Canāt wait to try this with the summer Milky Way from b2
@worn lantern
niceee
same setup, same conditions, same target 9 months apart
Thanks
Holy crap
Thatās fricking insane
Like holy shit
My first deep sky object with my new telescope
M13
I canāt get it to focus
Wdym
Itās out of focus
Yes ik but wdym how clusters look through a 10 inch
I worded it wrong
I messed around with lightroom classic with a photo I took from AstroShader and I'm very impressed with how well it turned out.
Looks very good but you could maybe tint it to green more
Yeah I was thinking about that after i processed it but it's okay
Woah
Amazing
AstroSahder can capture Moon! 0,5s 50pic ISO 5000, 50x Zoom
So this past week whenever I try to take a few exposures (around 50-200) the objects in the eyepiece and while itās shooting stays very still. But, when the final image loads in, the stars all all over the place, and I think thereās a problem with how the alignment function works because even with 10 exposures the stars are all over the place but they actually appear very still. Please send help on how to fix this.
Ah ok - Iāll take a look.
Although I havenāt changed anything related to the alignment function recently.
Do you have an example of one of the subs that werenāt getting aligned?
Unfortunately I do not, but I will try again tomorrow
š Thank you!
No problem!
Do you think there may be an option in the future to select certain photos and align them and put them together? I think itād be cool to shoot an object in hydrogen alpha and then shoot it again in O-3, save those mobile images, and then put those together in the same app
Unless thatās just not how it works lol
How many exposures were in that image?
was it just really long exposures and only a few subs?
Also thereās lots of walking noise lol
this is why monochrome camaras exist
Weāre in the AstroShader forumā¦? 
Oh and hereās the picture that I took last night of the misalignment I was talking about
to do it in astroshader?
good lukc getting a mono phone camara
You need to crob Zoom in the moon
Thanks for sharing š
99% sure this is due to an existing issue with the alignment where above a threshold in movement it wonāt work.
I have plans to fix thisā¦
For now you may find using the āstrongā alignment function helps this (bottom of the settings page)
i finnd medium alignment works best
@bold sleet if I do a long exposure with out a Eq mount will the App automatically stack and correct the Field Rotation?
Yes it will align for rotational differences.
Although for very long exposures the lens distortion in combo with field rotation will elongate stars around the edge of the FOV
Right now I canāt capture anything because from Germany we have the sun set at 9:30pm an it get full dark night at 11pm and I have to go Work and need sleep
This was just my last picture š
Jupiter disappearing behind the sun
@bold sleet Can you maybe change the ISO slider? Because I canāt get the Same ISO again after change it ones.
What do you mean sorry?
So like the exposure slider. You canāt make example 1.05s or 2,36s. I want like it give me a option iso 5000 and not like iso 5003. only even numbers
M104 Sombrero. Donāt remember how many exposures or how long. But about 3 minutes of data total
Would a volume shutter be possible? I have a remote shutter that just emulates a volume button, and it would be nice if i could use it!
What gear? Also what phone did you use?
Meade 2080 8ā SCT
32mm Plƶssl
Phone mounted with NexGO
iPhone 14
Since iPhone only goes up to 1s exposure max and longer exposures are just 1s stacked to simulate longer exposures, whatās the point in choosing exposure length + # of exposures if itās all just 1s stacked up. Or is there still importance in choosing a good exposure length with these iPhones even though itās 1s stacked?
Wait what
@bold sleet I worded it weird probably. Like how would 100 x 10s exposures on Astroshader differ from 200 x 5s exposures if at the end of the day itās just a bunch of stacked up 1s exposures?
Bro what? The IPhones does more than 1s exposure, it not stacked. If you do 100 x 10s with AstroShader the phone will do for each pic a 10s exposure and stack with the other 100pics
Oh ok, I thought that iPhones could only do true exposures of 1s and simulate longer exposures by stacking. Thanks!
The newest iPhones on the Normal Camera App they do 3 x 10s and stack. My IPhone 13 dose not have it, that why I have star trails with normal camera app
Ah ok, good to know. I remember taking photos with my 13 three years ago and I was getting a good amount of star trails. Hopefully when I shoot on Friday with my 15 Iāll do much better.
Itās my first time in 3 years trying again so letās hope it goes well haha
Good luck if you are in low light pollution, you will get Good results
My light pollution is bad, Iām in bortle 5 š
b5 is not bad
most of this server is probably above that
True but Iām on iPhone so Iām extra screwed lol
Iām in Bortle 8-9 š
Nah I can capture blinking and Saturn nebula comfortably at 0.615 degrees fov
Saturn nebula is colored weirdly cause I wanted to boost contrast in my ap log
with no extra optics i mean
Ohh
Well thatās what AstroShader is for lol (only for IOS sadly)
Default camera app sucks ass
This is what I can get in bortle 6 skies (graxpert denoising by hugo_astr)
Bodes and Cigar Galaxy Live view! 1s and ISO 32000 b6
AstroSahder vs Siril Processing
Ah I see. I need to make it round the numbers.
For higher ISOs the system never seems to land on the exact number chosen. So I think only allowing values like 1000, 1100, 12000 is more helpful and reflects reality
Good question!
Firstly yes - under the hood itās limited to 1s.
I combine the images in a different way depending on whether itās a longer exposure.
E.g. 100 x 10s vs 200 x 5s. For dimmer targets this can help push the data into the range where it can be visualised.
So for longer exposures beyond 1s itās more of an additive process than averaging.
There are some other (very long) threads discussing the details of this but Iāll spare everyone here š
Gotcha. Thank you! So whenever choosing my exposure length, I should just stick to whatever length I would choose based of rule of 500 and whatever I would use on an actual hypothetical DSLR?
Also, when 1s exposures are combined to achieve longer exposure lengths, are they aligned and stacked with stars, or just directly added to each other, or some other way? And Iām assuming the stacking of individual exposure are done with alignment and traditional stacking on typical stack software, right?
Only 1s!? This is bad there are so much nebulas that we couldnāt see
Yeah itās unfortunate š Iām pretty sure some phones like Xiaomi are able to go for much longer so they can do some good shots
Do you know if there is any settings to fix this or is it just unfixable? I have been using Strong alignment function
The alignment function is not the greatest
Instead i would just take the exposures and live stacks and stack the separate pics in siril
So instead of realigning you stack on siril for example 6 images each 100 sec of live stacked exp
Alr thanks!
No problem
You could trying upping the iso and exposure time if you can. Thereās not a lot of alignment points in that image
Yes, mostly.
I would just go for the longest exposure you can get away with, without trailing
Thanks for the advice! I tried it and it worked!
forgot abt this pic completely lol
I get similar walking noise on AstroShader š¢š¢š¢
Not that bad itās deepend on Phone, ISO and Sky quality and processing
i got walking noise too
Ok you guys have much walking noise
I See wich IPhone?
iPhone 15 Pro
Oh not bad but the results
I have a walking noise with my 12 Pro max
I think we should try Darks and flats
This would help a lot
I took 15 minutes of dark for 50 minutes of light and still didnāt help a tiny bit, I may need more
Is this nice for a b8/9?
This Guy Using AstroShader and combination with a night vision.
that's pretty neat
I could only dream of shots like that..
@bold sleet
I would love this too!
(Sorry been away for a bit)
This is technically possible, and easy. However Apple state you cannot use the hardware buttons for things they are not meant for and might kick you off the App Store if you do.
Iām not sure what the real risk is so for now have left it out
might be fine if you use the 10sec delay before it starts taking exposures
No worries!
Considering Apple uses the volume button as a shutter button in their own camera app, I canāt imagine them arguing that a shutter feature is beyond the intended function of the button, surely. Other third party apps use it too, like blackmagic camera.
Would you be able to reach out to dev support and ask directly?
Thatās what Iām doing currently
Haha, I know it sounds crazy but this is the section from the App Store review guidelines:
ā2.5.9 Apps that alter or disable the functions of standard switches, such as the Volume Up/Down and Ring/Silent switches, or other native user interface elements or behaviors will be rejectedā¦ā
Very much a do as they say and not as they do, situation
You can ignore this and actually implement it. But there was quite a famous example where Camera+ was completely pulled from the AppStore for doing this
For volume shutter? Thats crazy considering apples own app does it š Wild stuff
I know š¤¦āāļø
Sombreo galaxy with iphone 14 pro max with aplication astroshader. I used 100x30ā
Eastern Veil nebula ā too noisy but is there nebula. Astroshader ā iphone 14 pro max , 100x15ā
I used iphone 14 pro max . Astroshader. Around 100-200x10-20ā
What scope are you using?
I am using sky watcher 10ā goto dobson
254/1200
We both really gotta learn how to dither š
Dithering is only for eq mount and dedicated cameras or dslr not for astrophotography with phone
woah insane
not a single true word was spoken in that sentence
š
Bro donāt think I donāt see the walking noise in your enhanced image š„
looks like you took a transparent image of the whirlpool galaxy and put it over a schrunched-up blanket
ngl some of my image look the same too but Iāll learn how to dither properly, I recommend you do too
I know there is walking noise. But i only speak dithering is not possible to do with alt azimuth you must after exposure little move right and left to do
again not true at all
dithering is always possible and necessary to get a good image
you even dither when doing untracked
can i ask what dithering is i heard it only possible with guilding and eq mount
dithering is literally just making small random movements
has nothing to do with guiding or the mount type
yeah when i use live stacking this is not possble to do and is not practicle
because i do live stacking and manualy click exposure and do movements is not practically
hard is very capture galaxy or nebula and do dithering is almost impossible
You can always just click āpause and repositionā, just nudge the phone a tiny tiny bit, then stack again. AstroShader has an auto stacking and aligning feature right?
Yes but the feature is not ideal
I just do 1x60 and then Save Image as TIFF. Reposition on my self again.
Doing that again until have enough images. Send images to Deepsky Stacker and Stack, Processing
And Is not much Noisy. Good Image
M57, 22min Total 1x1329 ISO 32000. Stacked in Deepsky Stacker, Progress in Siril.
Condition bad: it was nearly full moon in Bortle 6
Some how there is not much walking noise
I tried capture with iphone 14 pro max and telescope M13 cluster. I used 120x15". I used live stacking Astroshader. And i processed it.
Caldwell 38 ā Needle Galaxy
Today i captured with iphone and telescope needle galaxy. Subs: 200x12". I used astroshader. And then processed it
Ok this is so good for phone ap
Did you use pix?
Thx
I used photoshop for this image, cosmic clarity
i dont have blurxterminator
Please dont use topaz
Why?
Another Image with the milkyway using AstroShader and edited in Lightroom classic. It's very noisy because if I put in too much of a foreground and long exposures and a lot of photos to be stacked, there's a lot of star trailing.
Ah yes - if thereās too much foreground, the alignment gets confused and doesnāt know whether to align the foreground or sky.
I have a (very optimistic and distant) plan to add some magic process that just handles foreground and masks the image and aligns the foreground and sky separately. Kind of mimicking the way people normally do foreground in Photoshop, but would be automatic
5x7sec exposure. I was surprised how much data (stars) came out of it last night in a B9
Milky Way + mini moto is an awesome combo
This was my Bortel 9 Image from Last year in Istanbul
Andromeda?!
Yes there is andromeda galaxy
Very jice for b9
Ignoring the multiple rainbows
28 mins of andromeda, hellish night but at least got something
Very good
Thanks man
Wow, crazy that you got andromeda in that
Yes itās surprising. This was only 7min data
Absolutely beautiful!
very impressed with how that turned out
Milky Way galaxy From Bortel 6.
iPhone 13, AstroSahder, 10x120 iso 1000
š hydrogen alpha filter on my night vision. 20x 1s iso 175 . Gain was lowered on the night vision. First try with AstroShader
That's really cool actually
Very cool!
Thereās a (very detailed thread) on CN about night vision and AstroShader. Most of it is over my head š
But this is the first NV widefield shot Iāve seen
Oh hmm I swear Iāve seen some wide fields with AstroShader
Iāll have to check out more from ppl
NV widefield, sorry.
Iāve seen a lot of regular widefield and NV deepsky, but not NV widefield. Although probably just that I havenāt seen them
Ohh okay
Guys i need some settings so i dont get star trails
Im sick of them
Wonāt waste another clear night doing this mistake
Iphone 15 pro
And sobson heritage 150 mm untracked
And ill show you some short images
2-3 minutes of m13 and m57
How much magnification?
You have 30x that ok
Right smt like that
Ok ill higher the iso
Wich Bortle Are u?
That was b3
Cool Are you again there?
I will when the moon becomes less brighter
So around 20 th july
I stack the images with Deepsky stacker
Same
Not that bad
Yea its pretty good
2 things that i think make the images worse are the eyepiece i use and the phine mount
You tell me if im wrong
I guess ill always have this problem with phone ap
We would need a star tracker and a coma corrector
This was a image from Lucas. It shows it definitely possible do phone ap
Right so star tracker is pretty expensive from what i know
But idk anything ab coma correctors
Yes
For my 114/500 Telescope a coma corrector cost 350ā¬
I think also with a 150/750
Oh dam
Atp i shiuld js buy an astro cam
But its so much easier and comfortable with the phone
But Same problem Coma
Oh so i need to buy a coma corrector for the astrocam too
Also you got a link?
Oh 150⬠thats not bad
Yes found a cheap one
Now i gotta find one in my country maybe
No
Astrocam is SO much easier than phone ap
I can guarantee you that
It's still way easier
Even if you have a bulky shitbox of a laptop, which i did when i got my astrocam
Not only is it a lot easier but astrocam gives 100x better results
Yes
Also i haven't heard great things about that coma correctlr
Get an astrocam first, then tracking then a new scopr
Then all the non essential parts like a coma corrector and guiding
Alright thanks
Now i had this convo loads of times with lots of members and i have no answer
I did guiding before new scope, you can NOT guide with the heritage don't do what i did
What camera
Heard lots of things about uranus c and neptune c
But also a popular answer was the 678 mc
A planetary cam capable of doing dso imaging
@opal terrace
All of them are planetary cams capable of dso imaging
Even uranus c is technically a planetary cam just bc it doesn't have tec cooling
Right
678mc is worse than the Uranus c
Uranus c is 315eur tho
What is acs?
A waste of money
Alright
It's for solar, it barely helps for deep sky and planets
It can't cool below ambient
Ok so its 360ā¬
uranus c
Neptune c II is 200ā¬
Ok not that expensive
And its 180g so not heavy at all
So its the neptune c II the right camero for my scope?
Ik there are better ones but tbh i dont want something expensive not bc i dont have money, but bc i wont use it as usual as some other ppl, kind of a waste of money
I'd do uranus c if you can
Will there ever be a feature to import frames and stack and process them after they are taken?
Wdym
like a feature you can stack and process images after they are taken because right now you can only live stack or process one image you cant stack multiple subs that were already taken
Ooh
Ik the developer is working on the feature to save the frames separately to stack normally
This was done a few months ago.
ā¦If you mean just saving the subs, to export and stack using DSS, etc
Possibly a few people have asked for this.
This biggest challenge is probably a design issue around how to let people select 100ās images on a phone.
Iāve just finished a very long project to refresh the alignment algorithm that is required to make this work.
So maybe a little closer now
Ahh okay by the way your live aligning feature is incredible it extends my exposure time from 1 second max to 60 seconds untracked
@bold sleet is it possible that you can make the live view visual Streched? So itās easier to find dark deepspace Objekts in live View. This would be a great new feature.
Oooh this is an interesting idea.
Not sure quite how to make it work - maybe x4, or x8 binning
ima do a 10hr+ milky way project with astroshader
Good luck I guess
thanks
Iām really interested to see the results when youāre done
Is it possible to do multiple pictures so i can image stack
Yes - if you go to settings then scroll and look for āSave individual exposuresā.
I would choose RAW unless you have a good reason to go for anything else
Is there any way that I could make it align to the stars and not the foreground so that it doesnāt produce star trails?
You need to Crob Zoom so that the app can Fokus more on stars, and make sure there are many stars visible in the live view.
From New York you should lower the ISO or exposure.
Thank you
i shot this in b7 last year
What settings
Iām on iPhone 13
Thatās insane
I don't use astroshader i don't have an iPhone, i wss just showing you can do it pretty easily on phone
Yes
Iāve tried using AstroShader and it didnāt work too well
Best thing I got was the beehive cluster, I couldnāt see it with my eyes
I made a gif out of it lemme find it
Also higher hp the exposure time
Iām new to photography itself too
And lower the isp
Oh makes sense
I donāt remember the settings I used
So what i use is around 8 focus on astroshader, you can ofc play woth it to find the exact lne
Iām b7, am I still 8 focus
Focus doesnt change with bortle
Oh right right
Lmfao
It also didnāt help that I couldnāt see it either
First and only dso Iāve ever photographed I couldnāt see
https://youtu.be/3hDp6HdqTuY?si=onTiZnO9jzf2GPQm this is how i learnt how to use it
Are you passionate about astrophotography but frustrated with the limitations of your iPhoneās default camera? AstroShader is here to take your night photography to the next level!
šø Key Features:
⨠Advanced long-exposure controls for stunning star photos
š AI-enhanced noise reduction for crisp low-light shots
š Real-time adjustmen...
Thanks
Remember, practice makes perfect
Anyone else from B9 btw?
.5s x 50 exposures (25s total)
during Nautical Twilight (morning)
Looks like the alignment was a bit off here.
Could have been the app, but also if it was windy.
Might worth trying longer exposures, if you can get away with it 1-5s. The signal-to-noise improvement will help the alignment.
(Iāll be releasing a big overhaul of the alignment soon which will also help a lot, hopefully)
Oh I was holding the phone with my hands thatās why it was probably off a bit. tomorrow Iām gonna try a different strategy
And the ā2ā moons thing was I think from the window glare or a phone problem
Ah ok.
Yes, handheld and through a window will really be cranking up the difficulty level š
Yep, will be trying a different region of space this night outside and with a stabilized holder
Can someon stack my andromeda images?
I manage to do 2h and 5m on andromeda with my 12 Pro Max 65mm Kamera in Bortel 9
Donāt worry itās only 13 images to stack
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1iNWQEWSvmnIM31HlgxDBMjYW5iWoW5QN
200s total time from Deneb-Altair region of space
So tomorrow im going to b3 again
Last time i did i shot m16 and did 1 hour of it, and i want to add more data tmrw, but last time i saved the subs in png
And this time ill save in tiff, do you guys think i can still add the tiff data on the png data to have around 2-3 h of m16?
Maybe it will work, or just convert PNG to TIFF
How?
I am doing it with PIPP the planetary software. Just add the images in and start a Process with TIFF and you get a folder where all the images are now in tiff
Is there anyway to add a option to capture in 12/24/48mp images (if the phone has a 48mp camera like the 15 and 16) because i know apple limits their night mode pictures to 12mp because of binning but is there anyways to bypass that? And capture 24 or 48mp images and just capture more frames? That would be really helpful (btw really off topic but REALLY GREAT IN-APP ALIGNMENT it saved me alot and got my single sub length from 1 sec to 60 sec because im untracked)
On night time Photography it always 12mp, because 48mp canāt get Sharp Stars and edges.
I think that is also with AstroShader
It also the same with Samsung, Even 200mp going to reduce to 12,5mp
Interesting idea.
Iāll explore this a bit but I have a feeling it will be tricky as Apple donāt really support it that well
Yeah i figures just thought i would ask since low resolution has been a factor for me with phone AP and thought that would change when i upgraded to a iphone 15 but noš but also since it is using 12mp instead of 48mp does that mean that the frames are already binned 1:4?
Why wouldnāt it get sharp star edges?
Yes itās 1:4 binning
Yes - if the sensor is 48mp it will be binned.
Iām not sure how his happens though⦠addition vs averaging
Another consideration with 48mp is memory, GPU and CPU resources. As everything would be 4x. Although I think it would be just about OK on those devices
Yo I started my project, I did 100sec subs (I put my phone on the eq6r for tracking) and set iso to 600 and this happened, the center is way too bright, do I lessen the iso
@bold sleet do I reduce iso to 400 and possibly lower exposure time?
Donāt do 100s subs
Do if you like 60s or just 30s
The 10 hour project has started
What Bortle is this being shot in?
Ooh not sure what happened here.
Yeah Iād maybe test with a lower iso. Although looks like you nailed in the follow-up message
Iāve stacked 1.5hours in total and it looks only slightly better than the single 5min stack, Iām starting to get a lil worried
Bortle 4.5
I did 400 iso 60 sec subs and even after 1.5 itās so noisy
Looks like a single sub
It might be a stacking issue idk
Thatās weird - how does it compare to a single sub?
If it looks the same maybe itās just something with the stacking.
ā¦vs if the single subs are really really noisy then something might have gone wrong
Ok itās quite better than a single 5min stack but the subs are really noisy
A 5minute stack shouldnāt look like that
Should i do even shorter exposures than a minute
Iām lost on how my 5min stacks are so noisy
Do u have any suggestions? @bold sleet
Look how noisy a 5minute stack is
It looks like a 30sec sub
My brother in christ you're litterally inside
Bro stfu have you ever even used this app
Weird - does stacking make them less noisy?
Like is it the stacking or the subs that are causing the issue?
Yeah I would try this first - in case thereās something funky going on
Are u talking abt the AstroShader stacking or the siril stacking?
I might be losing my cameras dynamic range by overexposing
Iāll experiment a bit with exposure times and how many subs I live stack in AstroShader
@bold sleet ?
Good point - both really.
As it will help pin down the issue.
If an AstroShader single sub is the same as the stack - thereās an issue in the app.
If one of the stacks you feed into Siril looks the same as the stack of stacks - the issue is here.
Yeah. Other than double checking the stacking - the first thing I would try is reducing the exposure time
siril stacking does make it less noisy
Yeah ima do 30 seconds instead
Could be worth trying 30s and 5s subs but same total exposure time and comparing. Before doing a longer imaging run
Ok
I captured Milkyway last night but the conditions was very bad. First image to noisy second image to much light pulution B4-5
On my iphone XR it keeps crashing when i try to take 3 exposures of 1.5 seconds by example.
yeah woulda done cygnus but my tripod couldn't tilt up high enough w my phone on the back of my nv monocular
very surprising results in a good way
Iāll look into this.
I have an X I can test withā¦
Itās been a while since it used it, but my camera stabilizer is broken. Could be that⦠lmk if u need anything from me
Do you mean the optical image stabilisation for the iPhone camera?
Or an external stand you use?
I know the image stabilisation has caused issues but in later models not XRs
Now I got a Good image. There is way more details as I aspected before
iPhone 13, 10sx120 ISO 1300 Bortel 4-5
@lyric river what exposures do you take
The internal due to vibration of my motorcycle
I took 60second 400iso exposures but switched to 30 sec
When will it come on Android
September 31st
180, 10 second photos stacked of the Milky Way using strong alignment in AstroShader

