#DSLR Astrophotography
1 messages · Page 4 of 1
it shouldnt change at all
All these were taken with a stock canon t3i
I would check any altitude bolts and azimuth bolts to make sure that it they aren’t slipping over the night, grass shouldn’t make too big a difference, make sure the surface is levelled though
guys is it possible to take good picture of the milky way with canon camera and tripod?
Unmodded dslr w cheap tripod, untracked. Exposure 10 minutes total. w calibration frames. 10s subs
kit lens 15-55mm
iso 1600
100% its absolutely doable! But make sure to re-center your camera enough times to avoid getting the wacky coma i got in the top right😂
oh ok thanks!
no worries!
3hours intergratioj
and this is 38mins
Holy you say if i stack images together i can capture this like that?
Dark frames and bias frams?
Depending on the lens a cheap lens can still look horrible
I have a 15-55mm
that was shot with a cheap lens.
i do bias and flats. i dont bother with darks.
Oh ok 👌
What lens u can have a somewhat cheap lens that relatively good
U should do dark if ur camera is old and have hot pixels darks is a necessity for my camera
hot pixels doesnt matter. what you mainly need darks for is amp glow
hot pixels can be removed with rejection algorithms with effective dithering
I’ve haven’t really seen dark frames do a lot besides get rid of hot pixels but ok
main thing they are for is removing ampglow
hot pixels can already be removed in the stacking phase so it doesnt matter too much
I agrée, although I do find when you have less than an hour worth of lights it’s good for removing hot pixels if you want to Prevew your work
you should be dithering regardless and use pixel rejection
too True, I get forgetful sometimes 😂
Modded my dslr now it may be cooked
What’s wrong with it
When I close the sd card slot cover it turns the camera off
The switch inside is misregistering
Or something
Orion is back in the southern hemisphere, cant wait to take thousends of untracked exposures of it again 😭
it is?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!??!??lesgooo
Atleast at 24° south it is, probably even higher in the sky at more northern latitudes
Hey guys currently looking of buying a DSLR camera but don't know what specs should I look out for and are the older models still good for ap and daytime photography. And what is better DSLR or mirrorless. I think I can buy a second hand to save some money but still don't know which model is good enough
I have a 2010 Nikon D5300, pretty good camera all around, not sure if its the best for ap but its great
Took this with it
That picture is amazing thanks for the info and do you know what specs should I look up for?
Id say a good sensor, but any mid range dslr can do the job just fine
Its mosty about getting a good lens, one with big aperture
I have a 200mm f4.5 lens, works quite well
Though lenses can be quite expensive these days
Thanks mate
Np 🙌
I got the same camera, what bortle? Any advice you could give?
I was told Sigma 150-600 HSM is not usable for Astro.. What a rubbish.. This is fixed version 2h from Bortle 3.. Nikon D780
But Bortle 3 is good tho
I am at between bortle 6 and 7 can I expect any result with DSLR camera?
if you're taking about milkyway widefield yes
I also have that bortle and i did some milkyway widefield with just a phone
I think my result was decent
no don't lol
if you have a dslr use it and not the phone
i only do phone bc I don't have a dslr
No I am thinking of buying DSLR but at the time I have only small Bresser 70/700 telescope and my phone
And I want to buy unmodified DSLR so that way I can use it for daytime also
To justify the money
You did short exposure and stacked them or how?
I want to try it
ig you could do some phone widefield while thinking about it
I do 8s exposures
and yea stacked ofc
Ok thanks mate!
I live at Bortle 8 at London - 300mm to 700mm you can catch Orion, Andromeda in 2h - some Galaxies too. This is the same Sigma 600mm Nikon D780 test on Bodies and Cigar Galaxy, about 2h.
Check Siril, Gimp and starnet++ these are amazing tools free - a lot of tootorials on youtube
That picture is amazing
Thx however it was just traker test 😉 Never belive something is impossible I was told Galaxies are no no from Big Town. The trick is to have good histogram at 1/3th and good tracking mount or traker and Siril with Background extraction will do magic - it will remove a lot of light polutttion
Yea nothing is impossible if you are willing to put on the work. I don't have star tracker tho which should I get? And can I do anything without a star tracker?
Without Star traker - yes you can - check the rule 500/zoom this is max time exposure you can go without the traker. So 100mm zoom will give you 500/100 zoom= 5seconds without much trailing. If you take 100-200photos 5sec each you will see Andromeda even Orion Nebula - - you can do Milky Way too
That's good news thanks
yeah its decent, a tracker is quite important though (and a decent lens)
lemme dig out something i did untracked
40m exposure
Is that spiral arm galaxy at the bottom?
(eos 90d 180mm lens)
yeah, there alao a faint comet to the left of the galaxy (gray smear)
Oh yea I saw it
Nicko Carver from Nebula Astro took very faint Nebula around North Star no tracker at all check this out https://youtu.be/iuMZG-SyDCU?feature=shared
Join me as I show you every step of capturing the Orion nebula with normal photography gear. The video will show planning, capture, and processing with DeepSkyStacker and Photoshop. Example files for this video and other resources on my website here: https://www.nebulaphotos.com/resources/orion-no-tracker/
If you don't use Photoshop, watch the ...
It's amazing
This is Grate way to test and learn things - and the lack of the tracker makes all process more simple. Good thing is lack of the tracker will force you to understand things to get results.
All of - ok most of Astro photos are black from the camera so it takes a bit to steach it out 😉
I’m bortle 5, best advice for any dlsr is get it modded
Will do, thanks
Oh
My first planetary animation ever!
Focal Length 900mm
Aperture 114mm
Canon 600d
Untracked
Seeing 4/10
Collimation 6/10
Around 50 min before battery run out
Nice
hello. so i have an unmodded canon 200D, with a 55-250mm f4-5.6 EFS kit lens that i use in tandem with an ioptron skyguider pro. i recently got a 120USD amazon gift card from my work place. i can bump it up to 200 by putting in something out of my own pocket. what would you guys recommend i invest in next.
for reference i recently shot this (north american nebula) from a bortle 8-9. It's about 51 mins integration at 45s subs, no dither. i am planning a trip to a dark sky location once the monsoons clear where i live.
i would also appreciate feedback and advice on the above shot
Some images of the northern lights I got with a stock canon t3i and a 18-55 kit lens
moon with Canon 600D and 900mm Scope
U should do image stacking to get it sharper and get rid of the noise
@spark pollen i stacked 70% of 79 raw frames
Couldn't get more because of clouds
Unpopular opinion but I enjoy noise in AP 
U need more than that like 1k is a good amount
Yeah, but there were clouds that covered the moon shortly after, was going for more honestly
A 1000 images? I know nothing about planetary/moon AP
As many as possible the better
Damn, so what are you using, like 30 GBs of storage per session?
Around that I don’t usually take image of the moon and planets because of my equipment I only have a 60mm refractor
I like the melancholic/nostalgic effect it gives, something I cannot explain really
That's the most unpopular opinion I've ever seen ever
That's not unpopular that's unseen
yea you wanna play with my data
somebody who can help me to fix my cam?
Hello,i want to buy a canon eos 100d, i will need an adaptor?Can someone tell me some important things about astrophotography with a DSLR?
Yes you will need a canon t ring which you can buy for around £10 if you go unbranded and £30 ish if you go branded
Well depends if your using a telescope or just the dslr with a lens
nah
mod that
as a person who did astro with an unmodded camera for a year
mod it
as a person with an unmodded camera, mod it
As a ducc with an unmodded camera, mod it
as a thin non german terrestrial bovine, mod your cam
As a person who has had a unmodded cam and modded it, mod it
As a camera who had an unmodded person, mod it
Modded: “an act or instance of modifying something, especially a vehicle or mechanical part” 
Says lower down about computer hardware parts too, didn’t bother adding it XD
As a telescope with no tracker mod it
Can someone tell me some things about settings for astrophotography?I want to use it at a telescope.
Dam, well modified sounds better 
True 
Modded is really essential for astrophotography, most of the dust in nebulae are red, a very deep red, now the issue lies because DSLRs have a built in filter that actually cuts out that red, so you won’t really get any of that red, which is quite important
Can I habe it modded afterwards?
You can mod a camera anytime but you cant revert it unless you buy external filters
So you would no longer be able to do daytime photography
@weary flicker
Cant I just change light balance when the camera is modded?
For daylight photography
You need the IR cut filter
You can process the image to make it look normal
But it's not gonna be fun when you take like 80 pics during a trip
Just use a custom white balance but the downside is that you would need to take a picture of white reference for each lighting setting (correct me if im wrong nerds)
You should
IR cut filters aren't that expensive I think
I got mine for £7
Svbony aswell
Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! £17.25 | SVBONY 1.25''/2''/36mm Filter UV/IR Cut Telescope Optics Infra Red Filter for Astronomy Accessories
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwQvTm1 @weary flicker
Its £7.50 rn
Oh nice lol even better
i heard cheap uv ir cuts have some serious issues like no coating and stuff
Not rlly
Definetly is
Its good enough for most people i know
Well if it works, but i hav heard the opposite too
Seems that ngc is rlly smol, u sure ur that zoomed in?:D also wouldnt it be way too dim for such a short exp time xd
u h m
Windows key + prt scr to screenshot
I took it on the night
dont even need that, you can just press the prtscr button
I wasnt planning on imaging thos
So why would i for one photo that i was only mainly showing one person?
Windows + shift + s gang
And plus i had no wifi in my garden cuz of my old wifi chip in my laptop
And plus again it was like 30 mins till sunrise and i had no data so i was rushing
What I need to connect my dslr at my telescope?
An T-ring.
Ermmmmm do you mean a t-ring
Captured this last night. About 10 minutes untracked with calibration frames. Does anyone know what that weird spot to the left is? I’m thinking my calibration frames might have caused it?
That's Earth's umbra and penumbra. Nah but try to stack it without calibration frames to see if it still there.
lol, good idea! Thank you!
Haha 350 second exposure with D5300, minor adjustment on phone editor. Got my AM3 in the mail and wanted to test tracking
This was my first time trying to stack an image with my dslr, definitely think need to try longer exposures next time
Do you have a tracking mount or are you shooting untracked?
You should try doing background extraction in it
Could you also share the raw file, please? I kinda wanna give it a try
Haha sure I can share it when in at home. I think I made some more that evening. Didn't bother background extraction on the single file yet
haha pretty good for a single exposure
here is the raw file
Heavily edited though and used topaz for denoising
Dont use topaz 😕
Yeah do however you can, its just about it creating false details sometimes
Can somebody process some jupiter data for me?
Hard target for a stock dslr, 11 hours in and not sure if I'm getting more
Looks good, any filters ? What fl ?
650mm, broadband light pollution filter
Very cool
Thank you! Not sure if it's worth it to add about 10 more hours. Idk if I'm getting more red haha
Wanna upload the current stack, I would love to give it a go
I'm resetting my PC today so it can take a while but I can dm you when its possible again
Sounds good
Do you have pix?
Yes
Nice, I don't haha
Nice
What lens
50mm f/1.8 stm
Works really well for normal photography but at night coma kicks in
Makes ypur andromeda even better cause its a short focal length
Na
Though I like the detail I got from only 3min I rather would have had a higher fl
Thats what I mean, 3min with a 50mm, and still got some detail
Whatever 🤷🏻♂️
my second attempt at andromeda galaxy!
Few questions:
What was the gear you used?
What was your exposure time per subexposure and what was total integration time?
Same questions for @brisk shale
I used a nikon d5200 and a sigma 150-600 also tracked.
30 sec subs at f5.6
Total integration time was around 50min
Do i need to put that in every post?
Lol no need for that. Im just starting out so just seeing what equipment people use for their imagea. What was your mount?
oh okay. i used a swsa gti
Understood. Thanks very much for the info
no problem!
I used the canon 800d modified and Samyang 135mm f2 with swsa2i
25sec f2.8
Total 1h 10m
I used pixinsight for the first time so the colours are not that great but it still look good
12h with a stock d750
Filterless?
yess no filters or anything
How
bortle 4 I guess
Damn, nice image tho
thankyou!
how did you get that pink in your photo?
Integration time
Processing
Thanks for the insight
What mount did you use?
SWSA GTI
Guys what do you think about an canon 1100d?
Not rlly worth it imo when u can get a 450d its only gonna increase ur sensor by a little bit and for the price not worth it but get other opinions
@karmic belfry i don't gonna buy it new
So i can't find any camera
Unless this one
I mean used
What scope
What?
What telescope u using
200/1200 dobson
Alr one sec
K
?
Deep sky
I wonder why dude
What nebula is that?
NGC7000 North American Nebula
A 650d is better?
One sec
Not rlly
A bit or ?
One sec to search more
Its 1000 euro💀
550d?
So 400 euro ish
Still abt the same as 450d
If ur on a budget get a 1100d
Cuz it had video
Has*
5d?
One sec
5d better?
Mkii?
Buy a Canon EOS 6D. Recently got one myself. Very fat pixels, full frame and 20,3MP. You can get one for under 350€ with lens and batteries included
Its very expensive
This only 3min integration of Andromeda with a 50mm
In my country a used one is 1000$
18mins at 70mm
Where do you live?
Romania
Doesn't matter
There is mkII of the 6D too
But it's bit more expensive 
Just because it's mkII it doesn't mean it's better
Its a problem if its says "body"?
The Body of a camera is just the camera without a lens
This is a body
And its good?
what?
Oh ok
Nothing
As you have a really low budget you may also consider the Canon eos 600Da
'a' stands for astromoddifictated
But if you want to use it for daylight photography you have a put a filter on it and have to adjust white balance
Because you also have to buy a lens, which is normally quite expensive you rather should choose a low budget camera
I want to put it into the eyepiece
only for astrophotography?
Yeah
Not for anything else?
Then a canon eos 600Da will probablybe sufficient
But you need a adapter for camera in order to attach it the scope
yap
Idk i can use it if i want to photograph a sunset or milkyway?
And how much its a lens
200$ ... increasing
ok
Secondhand cheaper
PRETTY MUCH
yap
Look for them
Ebay
or mpb
Depends on what you want to do
There are zoom lenses
Widefield
So if i get a canon eos 600da its ok?
Prime lenses
Ig
Better inform yourself of others too
The eos 600Da is basically the camera everyone recommends for beginners with low budget
i have a canon 2000d is it also ok
It's ok'ish
Any camera will work. Some will be better.
Do not ask which one will be better, it is out of your budget ( and mine too )
Awesome! Do you have any other pictures with this setup?
sadly not, this is like the first picture I have taken in over a year
When you modified it, did you add any Ha filter?
I sent mine to modify and I was watching your images, wondering if you just removed the UV/IR cut
I'm asking because I've seen some other astromodification service and they claim to add a Ha sensible filter
They should only take the UV/IR cut filter, if they just added a HA one it would be impossible to do broadband.
I’ve never heard of modification websites doing that tho
Unless you got HA mod and a actual HA filter mixed up
Yeah that's what happened. Yours just got the UV/IR filter removed?
Yep
Awesome, thanks
No problem
Ima do full spec then see if i can get some glass to put infront so its not naked
m31 3.5 hours exposure time, 390 30 sec subs, iso 160, f5.6. any tips to make this better?
Then it’s not full spec if u have glass over it the dust protection filter is pretty much just glass
I dont think i will cuz its not worth breaking my cam
Yeah I’d just leave the dust protection filter on all it does is make the stars a little less sharp pretty much unnoticeable
U gotta look really hard to see a difference
U should it makes a huge difference
Stock dslr can’t see the ha wavelength pretty much at all so it will help with every nebula and galaxy
Theres 2 filters inside the DSLR, the LPF-1 and LPF-2, you just want to remove the LPF-2 as that is the one that blocks out Ha, you can remove both to do a full spectrum mod, and do what i did (leave the sensor bare) or get a glass protection layer, itll help unbelievably with nebulae, wont change galaxies themselves though as they do not contain much Ha
stop down lens
Why?
sharper
To what Aperture?
also run some graxpert on it
Already did
Okay
Its not The image I posted I did it after I posted it here and didn’t bother to post again
I did 1.5 hours in b9 with the moon out, with a lens at f5.6, while I couldn't see polaris and has less noise
what
that's not the image?
why would u post smth and not post the actual image
I can send the latest image
I did some tweaks to it
guys look at my 5 picosecond integration on ring nebula, not actually the image u see but I wasn't bothered to actually post it
integration.
I don't mean like why is there noise I mean like why is there so much
Isn’t 3.5 hours good?
should be alright for a decent picture of andromeda
I mean urs is good
I like the colors and all
just oddly noisy
Yea idk why
i have a filter but im so confused how you attach it to the camera because if i attach it to the camera i cant put the camera onto the telescope
Wym
@timid flint
Show the scope your using @timid flint
Since you have what looks like a 2" mounted filter, it's gonna have to thread onto the scopes focuser if it does actually have threads.
thats the thing
the filter doesnt stick out enough to catch on the threads so it just doesnt hold in the focuser
1 sec
this good ?
as in the filter sticking out is too shot to catch onto the threads
so i have to use the camera without the filter with this adapter. Adapter screws on t ring then gets threaded into the focuser and tighten in the two screws
the the filter cant screw onto that adapter
so i think i need another adapter so the filter screws on to it but also the camera but i dont know which one
idk if u get it
It looks like your only option is a clip in filter that slots in directly into the camera body. Unfortunately iirc its Nikon and there's little to no clip in filters for Nikon aps-c.
Which Nikon do you have?
d3500
Ahh yea
Also, I will say that using a filter when doing untracked astro is hardly worth it.
I assume that was a Dobsonian scope?
Or was it on a motorized eq mount?
i dont think so i am very sure that there is a adapter for it
but i just dont know what it is
cuz why would there be two thread things on each side of the filter
It's for a coma corrector, field flattener, or even a filter wheel.
They usually accept 2" filters such as the one you use
Your focuser likely doesn't accept 2" filters natively.
would something like a M42 Male To M48 Male Adapter not work
You have to find out what the specific threads are for the end of your focuser.
Or that adapter you have
I guess thats what you were referring too
Not the focuser
im trying out new stuff with a 1200 fl tube with a dogdy focuser that just doesnt wanna fit the filter in and im trying to make it work
i was refering to the filter its got two sets of threads one where you connect it to the t ring and another on the other side where im like 90% sure you can sure an adapter to it so you can put it in the focuser and lock it in
The filter shouldn't be holding the cam in the focuser. It's not design to take that type of stress.
Is your t ring an M42?
Astromania 2" T-2 Focal Camera Adapter Ⅱ for SLR Cameras - Simply Attach Your Camera to The Telescope https://a.co/d/7NSAZDV
This 2" camera adapter allows you to quickly attach your SLR camera to any telescope with a 2" focuser. Your camera is then securely attached to the telescope and ready for your nocturnal photo sessions.A T-2 thread permits virtually any camera to be attached and subsequently connected to the tel...
This right here threads onto your t ring (assuming it's M42) and allows you to thread on that 2" filter.
Also
One big thing you need to ensure, is if you can even reach focus with your DSLR.
Most newtonian scopes don't have the amount of back focus DSLRs need. I couldn't reach focus using my Nikon d7200 and 8" Newtonian.
thats a very simple problem to solve tho
already done it too so isnt a problem
go to your local hardware store buy like a 10 pack of (i think) m5 bolts roughly 50mm long and push the primary mirror up
makes the focus point go out of the focuser and able to reach the sensor
this is my t ring
annoying thing is that this ships from america to uk so i think i gotta pay extra also it takes about 12 days to ship
hopefully ill be able to find another one like that but from the uk
feel like its the same thing might be mistaken though
Yea should be the same thing
Cygnus loop, taken with a D5300 and an EvoStar 72ED mounted on a EQM35-Pro. Bortal 5 location, 7hrs of light-frames (2min subs)
Some recent pics
Altair Jupiter jupiter processed different and the moon
I have better images of the moon just not on my phone
M31 before and after Dithering using Rebel T7 kit and skywatcher star adventurer gti
Amazing shot! A few questions:
What bortle zone were you in?
What was the exposure time for each subexposure?
What was total exposure time?
What lens/telescope did you use?
Thanks in advance!
Bortle 4
First night of auto guiding and dithering so I did 60 second exposures
Total of about 50 minutes
Rebel t7 with the EF 75-300mm f/4-
5.6 III -it was included in the kit I purchased from Best Buy.
Thanks for the info!
Early shot at M45.
Rebel t7 ISO 1600
60S total 2.5 hours guided with the Sky-Watcher star adventurer gti
Still using the kit lens that comes with the rebel t7
Don't close it 
sd card wouldn't even be read
Yeah, I was joking, don't take me seriously. Sorry.
had some glue on it because I tried to glue it down because the clip broke
lol ur good I was just explaining what happened
Yeah, sounds pretty interesting. Good thing you were able to fix it.
120s exposures, 3 hours total.
46min m45 with 1min subs and no flats, homemade tracking system, canon 2000d (unmodded), cheap 70-300mm lense
Canon Rebel T7i (Modified) Sky-watcher 150pds 3hours 25 sec sub
Milk
made a mosaic containing 6 panels of about 1 hour each. not getting the panels to look the same sadly
stock nikon d5300 with a 130 pds on a am3
lots of wind so no detail
Still sick tho bro!
27 images, 2 sec each. Canon 500D with 18-400mm lens. Focal length set at 200mm
ty
No problem bro keep ur the sick work
bump since it died lol
is a dslr better than a cheap planetary cam?
by cheap i mean like >150 dollar
player one sells mars c cheaper than that
I have the same question lol
i do already have a uranus c and it's obviously better than a dslr, but thats staying in my main setup
so no im not raising the budget to get the imx585
I just want another cheap cam for another setup
It's great Dan!! Whats the settings and equipment?
6 hours from a bortle 8 and unmodded dslr
any recommendations on what i can do to improve (other than getting myself some dark skies ofc). i currently use an unmodded aps-c dslr, with a 55-250mm f4-5.6 kit lens, and an ioptron skyguider pro. i am thinking of investing in one of the following: a. filters, b. better lens, c. modified camera
It's great, still need more integration due to high bortle sky 🫡
i am not sure how much more detail i can gather, because this was 3 hours lol, feel like i am close to hitting some sort of barrier with my location and equipment
I think give someone your data to edit and see if it's improving, if it does
Practice on processing
If doesn't improve then upgrade equipment
Also make sure you are doing capturing perfectly with no mistakes
It's cloud dude
If it's nebulosity, then maybe give data to someone else to process
i am actually getting much better at capturing i feel. my balancing has gotten to a point where i dont really see any tracking errors. i am thinking of bumping my subs up to 60s from 30s. dont know how much that would help though
i will be happy to share my data. its supposed to be done in #1021002743080558642 yeah?
What's the focal length? Maybe try to go with lower fl..
Yeah I will try and some other people will also edit it
Share like your Google folder link but make sure it's only allowed to JUST SEE THE DATA not edit or anything.
yeah i just posted it with my stacked file.
focal length??
which focal length did you shoot at??
bruh
ISO 400
for real? tbh my images come out worse at 55mm from bortle 8. like the light gradients are impossible to deal with. also i am pretty much limited to either 55mm or 250mm on my zoom lens because anything in between is going to be impossible to replicate on subsequent nights and i am afraid of it being knocked down to some other focal length when i am taking flats for example
not like 50mm thats too wide, go for 135 or like max 150
any reason why higher focal lengths are worse under light pollution?
its worse in general
in 1 year of doing this i have only tried 55mm and 250mm, nothing in between, so i am not sure of the advantages of 135mm for example
even our lens are not good
due to our lens quality
if we have a astrograph we can go for higher focal length but we are already behind in comparism of lens quality
ngl you tried your best, the data is also good but the light pollution is making soo much noise
i am happy that you didnt got upset and left the data to only 3 hours
🫂
i am editing your data rn, its good like really good but the noise is too hard to cancel
yeah i get it. i mean you do raise an interesting point, i can't really visualise it in my head though. tell you what, i will try doing like an hour on pleiades tonight at a lower focal length around 135mm or so before i get more data on the horse. i have done pleiades before at 250mm so i will be able to compare them.
haha thanks man, i mean an year ago i was doing untracked without an intervelometer so this is really not that much hard work in comparision 😅
yeah thats great i am planning to start untracked this vacation
thanks, yeah i know i personally do it like really slow and do a bunch of noise reduction layers in photoshop
any tips from you will be great as you have done that
like gears and all, i have budget of 500us dollar
i have nothing beside a phone and tripod(cheap 20dollar)
i think because you are doing those layers thing the details are washing out
bro honestly, the BIGGEST difference maker is always a star tracker honestly. i mean my stuff from before getting a star tracker and after getting a star tracker is like a day and night difference. i think ioptron are doing like a christmas sale right now and the skyguider pro is like 300ish bucks. i honestly dont think the camera and lens matters that much in the beginning. i am using my sister's old dslr which she never used and just had lying around at home.
since you will be starting from scratch, i would recommend you get the best deal possible on a star tracker, and then compromise on the camera and lens with whatever you have got left.
though i am sure more experienced people on here could have better advice for you
yeah lol, tbh i usually edit with the mindset of "i need to get this on print and get my mum to hang it up in her room". so removing noise is a big deal for me. basically, i go for looks >> details
thanks for the advice but as i dont have any other equipments i dont think i can get everything under 500 bucks
so i will start as untracked and when i save some money i will buy a star tracker
i know star tracker are lot helpfull but no choice
isn't there anything on the second hand market you could go for?
soo...
i am going for canon t3i 200 dollar used(max), 75-300mm lens(100 dollar max), tripod used: 70 dollar, intervalometer like 30-40 bucks, dew heater 25 bucks
this will come under 500 dollar
so no chance for star tracker
i mean fair enough, i dont really know much about camera and lens prices seeing as i never bought my own. didn't think it would be that expensive. from what i have heard the t3i is quite good for beginners though right? also make sure you get the 75-300mm EF lens. idk if they have a EF-S variant of it, so just make sure you get the EF one, otherwise you wont be able to play around with filters in the future. that's the problem i have lol
ohh thanks for the help
i guess that's pretty solid advice - futureproof your present buys
heres the result
the walking noise is too much to handle lol
but i think its better than that version
😆
you fried the flame nebula and thats why it was looking bad
i mean yeah fairs lol. the flame does look better in this one. the one thing we can definitely conclude from this though, is that i really need me some dark skies xd
i am in bortle 5 skie
yeah
let me show you my try on orion constellation
yours is way better than mine
that's pretty good. i visited bortle 5 a couple months ago. it makes a massive difference lol
woah that's really good man i think i can even see the barnard's loop a bit
and rosette to the left i think
its really good. all from your phone?
nice man, really cool
1 min subs, 281 lights (around 4.5 hours) under Bortle 4 skies, Canon Rebel Xsi (H alpha mod) with 55 - 250 mm kits lens set at 135 mm
Like 5 hours on the horse head and flame nebula Astrotech 60ed, skywatcher gti, modded cannon t3i and a uv/ir cut filter
55-250 lens or 75-300 lens?I mean which one should I go for ? And the image is amazing 😋
It’s 55 - 250 mm, it came with a rebel t6i but that camera belongs to my sister. I bought my rebel Xsi second hand with no lens. And thank you!
533?
I think they're referencing a sensor type. Aka they got a deep sky camera
Ohh nice
mid
very nice
how to achieve this kinda pic tho like dark out there
and theres only the galaxy in there
my background kind of like this
what a mess
Star removal program
You can use one for free with Siril
star removal doesn't fix blotches
yessir
maybe ill photoshop
using mask tool
did some fix...
kind of hell to fix
idk with this
thoughts?
Nvm still sucks with those noise and gradients
Ill just add more integration time
How much was this image?
Yeah i did the flat also
I have a as new Nikon D200 but after reading many articles I realise I need to upgrade it. I don't have a lot of budget and reading articles like this https://www.markshelley.co.uk/Astronomy/camera_summary.html#SonyA7SII_A7III_A7RIIII
I am not sure what the hell to buy. I can get a D300 which has live view for not a lot of money <£100 and possibly a Sony A7S for under £300.
My main interest is in taking shots of Orion and other DSO
hey i use a CANON 450D and all my images look...soft, there is no sharp detail in there is that a resolution problem? i use it on 750mm fl telescope, the camera has a 5.1um pixels and a APS-C sensor if that matters. here the issue is mostly visible in the nebulocity in andromeda, in my opinion it's lacking detail for some reason
thats probably just noise and suboptimal processing
how much exposure was that?
60x30s i think
but it's on all my images this is the most recent one, i have a 4h exposure on NGC 4406 and it looks the same
tracked, unguided
i have guiding now but weather doesn't let me take anything decent with it
that's why im asking if it's the camera, i bought it for 50$ so i know ill have to replace it but i just wonder if thet's the problem
my guess is either poor seeing, poor processing, limits of the scope or the camera being from 2008
probably poor processing or cam badness
scope is a 150/750 so i think it's fine
seing is the thing i still can't figure out how to mesure
and the camera is introducing a lot of noise according to internet
and about procesing i don't even know what could make it blury
I used the 450D for almost 2 years
It's very old now but has plenty of potential for a 50 USD cam
What you want to focus on is dithering, since you have a guiding system. This will eliminate the walking noise present in your images, which is quite difficult to reduce as your eye notices it instantly.
Here you can see the noise is "traveling" horizontally. This is due to the frame slowly drifting left or right during the night as your images are being taken.
would you say it's worth buying?
or is there smth else better for really cheap too
What cam do you use now?
uranus c but that's for my main setup, planning to buy another really cheap dslr to do some widefield while my main images
the ease of use stuff like flip out display doesn't matter since ill use it with a pc
I mean it's solid for the price, also fairly easy to modify. It honestly should be modified to get the most out of it.
Would you be using it with camera lenses?
Such as a 50mm prime or more ultra wide angle?
But to more clearly answer your question, the image is soft because of the extreme noise. You need more integration time, and as I explained above, dithering. Also, do you take dark frames at the end of each session?
Taking darks that are temp matched within at least +- 3° will also heavily reduce thermal noise and any amp glow.
Yes
Probably pentax takumar 200mm f/4
Would smth like a t2 be worth the extra price?
i take all the calibration frames, but like you said i probably need more integration time
Probably not
To buy a 450d and astromod it? Or to stick with my 5d mark iii and just use it (I'm way too scared to astromod the 5d mark iii and there doesn't seem to be a massive amount of info online about doing it)
Can get a 450d for like 60 euro on mpb right now
U could just Astromod the 5d so u don’t have to spend any more money
Is it something I could do on my own? Or should I try get a camera repair shop to do it
astromods r easy
U just need some small screwdrivers and a razor blade
I’d also recommend a screw organizer
Yeah there's just no guide on doing it to the 5d mark iii itself it seems. If there was I'd definitely do it. Especially if it was reversible
see you guys later
the only used one got sold a few hours ago
i literally just asked the guy but didnt get there in time
There was only 1 used one on all the internet? That's a big rip.
looked for ages
Dam
even on those websites straight out of myspace days
Brand new Player One 533 is a hundred cheaper
I have an ASIAIR
Ahhh 💀
Asiair moment
My fist astro image. 127mm Triplet with 17 year old Nikon d700. It has some weird banding going on which I have seen a few people comment on.
I want to ask something, when shooting stars pic, is it ok to change the temperature or keep the same temperature? When you do like alot of session astrophotography
Cuz i shoot the stars with auto settings, sometimes it goes purple, or green
Your background is clipped, you raised the black point a little too much. About the banding, there's a banding reduction tool in siril but, for me in most cases, doesn't work on my data properly
Are you referring to white balance or sensor temperature?
White balance
Idk with mine with this
I leave it on daylight
Is it clipped?
Whitebalence isn't used for astro
Looks fine
Keep it on daylight
Is it going to disturb the stacking process?
Not nessesarily disturb...more just keeps your data consistent
Alright
Thanks
Will look out for not pushing th BP too far. Thought it looked okay but thanks for advice.
has anyone attempted the seagull with a stock dslr?
I'll attempt it on the 25th
Will get atleast 7 hours
there's no moon
quick question, if I'm in bortle 5-6, will I need to invest in an LP filter or will I be alr using no filter?
lp filter cuts out mostly the sodium spectrum, and it can help a lot if you mostly have sodium street lights in your area(the orange-yeallowish ones) but if you live in a place where there is a lot of modern lighting it's not gonna help
you'll be alr without a lp filter, but a lp will help
I'd say it's better than nothing, but it's also not a dramatic difference. I'd get something like a dual narrowband or UHC with that cash for nebulae
Hey I was wondering what the best beginner-friendly dslr is, I also want one that will take nice pictures if I acquire more experience throughout the year
Is the canon t7i or t5i a good one?
Good
The T5i (700D in the uk) was my first DSLR, it still hold a special place in my heart and I've still got it knocking about the house.
Could u show me some pictures u were able to obtain with that camera if possible?
I must say, I never used it for astro, mostly for normal photography but I know people astromod them
Oh ok sounds good
Oh wow
Dunsfold 2019 with the 70-200mm f2.8 mk1
That’s cool
Canon 100mm macro
Canon 50mm f1.8
Also the 100mm macro
I should stop as these aren't exactly astro photos as per the channel name
im a complete beginner and im stunned what you can do with just a dslr an tripod
and u can also combine it with a dob
same gear
how long is the total exposure on this one?
3 hours.
huh
3 hours.
how long whre ur subs?
damn
Raw subs only were 108gb
wel did u wait 2 days for dss then ?
Stacked In pixinsight. Had to stack each night Individually
If I wanted to stack it all together at once, it would've taken up 3tb
crazy but i like it 😂
Yea it was a mad project
how is this nebula called?
Tarantula nebula in the LMC (Milkyway's larger satellite galaxy)
No that's the Carina Nebula
It is my #1 target for when I visit Australia
Ideally if I can take my 8" RC with me, it's a great target for using all 1624 mm of focal length
Nice
should I do lucky imaging with my mirrorless camera? by lucky imaging i mean 5 to 10 sec exposures, if yes should I use the electronic shutter?
5 second subs is not lucky imaging
on sorry, I wrongly termed it then
but will many 5 sec images work for whirlpool? as its a bright target
should be ok
ive got an unmodded apsc mirrorless, 180mm lens, and a swsa 2i
any target recommendations for the upcoming new moon? preferably without any super bright stars since my lens has bad coma. also lat 35
What's this image?
statue of liberty nebula
Flaming star nebula
13h21min
im supprised there isn't much more to see than on the previus 8h image
Canon 450D (no IR cut filter)
SW150/750
8,2h with roki 135 and unmodded canon 2000d
png
Is my a6400 good enough for astro?
Should be
even though I have an astro cam rn I reprocessed some stock dslr data from last summer
Dang, what DSLR? It did a good job with the red
Nikon d750
how much exposure?
12h, 90s subs at iso 3600
how did you chose the ISO?
i don't understand it, is that the amount of noise in Y and iso in X? if that's the case should i just always use 1600?
Yea keep it at 1600
if i took 13h40min on IC 405 at ISO 400 can i start adding the rest of the data at ISO 1600?
Yea ofc
From now on you want to keep shooting at 1600
alright, thanku
Itching my head

You should drop the asiair and get a minipc with a 220mm
Why is badunkie a protostar
im going in reverse progress, i already have an astrocam but ill be joining you guys
My brother
I too have a 2000D
Imagine using a DSLR
Lmao, man... The pain...
Discord making you wait to speed through all the messages to after clicking on that is the most infuriating thing.
Curious, where did you get this graph data?
Id love to know what iso to shoot at for my camera
Thanks!
np
B
Unmodded dslr with 150/750
1h on Dumbbell nebula
wait people still use dslrs??
big oof
(im sorry i feel you guys, dslrs can be pretty good and are tough to use)

dslr on cdk1000
Andromeda Galaxy 1 hour and 30 minutes, untracked
Canon 1300D
Tamron Lens 70-300mm
Shoot at 135 mm f4.5
Shutter 2s, iso 1600
2300+ frames stacked
Untracked is crazy
Carina image when
Dude I've no storage to stack, last time I stack my PC got blue screen 😂😂😂
Nahh I gotta upgrade soon
youll need to stCK in baches then
Get an external hardrive
I guarantee my pc has less storage and ram
And I couldn't even transfer that many even if I wanted 💀
Fr
eastern and western veil nebula untracked 1 hour
Upgraded from my 114mm spherical to a 6" f/5 parabolic . It's been a little over a month and this is what I've gotten so far :3
6 hours eastern and western veil nebula
I couldn't make the nebula pop out, kinda sad
Untracked btw
tracker wen
6hrs untracked is mad commitment
interested in seeing the carina project tho
👀
Lmaooo
Sadly I do not have one : (
get
Yeah collected like 7 nights
your poor shutter...
Andromeda galaxy
Untracked
4k images stacked
2 hours and 30 minutes exposure
Tamron lens 70-300mm
135mm lens f4.5
Canon 1300D
4k, insane dedication
4k images is crazy
nice job
sir this is #1034767907495874572 not #1337566901496320101
youre gonna have a field day there
Nah I know him so it's fine
bro got kicked
Thank you thoo
i wonder is that blue from oiii or reflection? most lagoon photos i see are all red
I used a duo band filter
So oxygen
Probably the cleanest oxygen channel I've gotten in any of my photos
Kinda looking a bit magenta ish
thats some nice colour in the star trails
yeah
i like that too
at first it was bad
it looked like that
but i changed some settings in siril
and it looks better
is this the new one or the old one?
if its the old one then the new one is a big improvement
how come the old one has waves going through it
looks like a moire pattern
thanks
i removed the green noise and stretched it a bit
and added some more saturation
yeah really improved the image
for a dob theyre great
the orion photo might need a colour calibration
and a background extraction
otherwise its ood
what dob do you have?
solid 10" skywatcher
have you seen the skywatcher goto upgrades?
theres also onstep
bit more diy but alot cheaper
also for the price of the 10" dob you could kinda create a full rig
what is this
*upgrade kit
its an opensource astronomy control software
like synscan
its used to turn non goto mounts into goto mounts
but i need to make rotors myself
you just buy motors and connect to the control box
something like NEMA 17s
but yeah its more diy
they have kits as well but idk if those will work with dobs
if you havent worked with this kind of stuff then the skywatcher is more plug and play
but onstep will cost probably sub 500$
heres someone who did it
yeah if you havent done this stuff before then its a risk
but its not harder to control it?
damn
like NINA and asiair
the photos is nice
nice



