#DSLR Astrophotography
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Nice! what did you shoot? and what bortle are you normally?
i thought you was like B5-6
B5 is dark?..
For some XD
Is it actual b5 or is it one of those secret b5ās that are actually b2ās but light pollution map hasnāt updated as only recently the entire city near by you burnt down and all light sources within a 100km radius exploded
Nah honestly B5 compared to B7 is huge! i live at B5, but went to a place that was B7, could barely see any stars ngl
compared to what im used to
I usually live at b5 and Iām at b7 now
Even with the moon out I could see quite a bit of stars
Maybe even the slightest of mw or the Magellanic Clouds
Maybe you just got the god tier eyesight XD
I could see I believe the tiniest bit of smc and lmc
I could see 47 tucanae the bright cluster
I can see the mw faintly at home if seeing is good, but at B7 there is literally no way lol you sure it wasnt B2 called B7? XD
Iāve been to b2, I flashed a torch in my eyes for 10s and instantly looked and saw the entire mw arch in full details brighter then some clouds at b5
I could see lots of small nebulae just with my eyes without dark adaption
Damn, never been below B4, mainly because its a 8hour drive to B2 but still XD man thatd be sick, but if you saw mw in B7 then that aint B7 XD
B2 is like living in a dream
high b7
Itās like constantly seeing a mw panorama with your eyes in mono
B5 I could see the milky way for the first time
Thatās what Iām at now with the moon up in b7
even with the moon
How much percanteage
I have seen the mw before in b5
Same
B5 mw is not comparable to b2 mw
Yeah definitely
Iāve been to most bortles now the difference Is quite astounding
How much do you see
i saw so many extra stars compared to b7 I struggled to recognition constellations
Any mw?
if I looked straight at the milky way it did look like a streak but averted vision began to show some kind of structure
most structure is visible in cygnus
It takes a min for me to see the mw
I donāt instantly see it in b5 sadly
The more I looked, the more that was visible
But after a bit I can see the mw core and some southern mw like near carina
Dark adaption is essential
Oh yeah milky way core is invisible from my spot in the northern hemisphere
Orion is brighter
Yeah but Orion you donāt got as much
I can see Orion naked eye, you can prob see it naked eye in b9
orion also doesnt rise much here
eh well it kinda does
the belt only gets to 40 degrees though
yeah, thats true
Nah Cygnus is anticlimactic
Itās basically just Vela and really faint milky way
Sagittarius is better
you can see so many DSOs
like eagle, swan, m24, some clusters, lagoon, trifid and co
Yeah they are all cool i liked shooting all of them
They are all easy fun for the whole family targets too great for stock if you want a nebulae visible but then you realise that there is a crap ton of invisible ha that makes you go insane for a while thinking about temptations in buying an astro cam.
but its a way different experience seeing them with the naked eye
Yep def
Iāve seen the core so brightly before itās very beautiful
In b5 itās visible but like still a lil dim
go to a b3 sky or less. i can be so happy to be partially living in one (the night sky there is one of the most beautiful things i know)
Iāve been to b2 before and the mw core looked super bright and I could see all the nebula
life in the city just sucks...
The map shows I'm in bortle 5 but either my eyesight is ass or it's actually bortle 6.
apparently looking at a bright light for even a short time ruins dark adaption but i found thats not the case from my experience
it took staring at bright lights for longer periods to lose dark adaption
Wdym?
DSLR gang gen chat
Use spot stars on photopills
Hi, I can't decide between these two old camera lenses.
The first one is a Pentacon 135mm 2.8 .
The other one is a Carl Zeiss Sonnar 135mm 3.5 .
I'm wondering which one is better for astrophotography, and which one has less Cromatic Aberration
I would imagine Zeiss glass would be better, but I'm not too familiar with vintage glass as far as which lenses are the sharpest.
Could go either way. One thing about vintage lenses is that the current condition can vary widely even between examples of the same make and model.
so hard to say without testing them
Is it day for you rn?
Oh wow, it was 10 pm for me
M33 2h30
Canon EOS 50D with Quattro 150p
severely undersampled because pixel scale sucks on the 50D - its 4.69 micrometers on an aps-c sensor
Gotta buy a proper astro camera soon
Wow Iām glad people still use this
Try the 5.2 um pixels on my 450D lol
Would 2x drizzle when stacking improve anything in this image?
My internet is crap atm so I couldnt load the whole image but it looks like your better sampled than me and drizzling my data doesn't improve anything enough to be worth it.
So your fine most likely
First astro photo M31 with abt 30min and no calibration frames
Just finished my two panel mosaic on the Heart and Soul. Both sets of data have been absolute surprises as far as quality.
https://discord.com/channels/794642864218439681/1164022265709604887
Wow thats beautiful and so clean, whats your pixel scale in that image? its very sharp
Thank you! That image is around 3.8 arcs/p andy 450D has 5.2 um pixels.
That is 3.8 arcs/pixel?
Maybe closer to 4.3, which iirc is what stellarium/telescopius states.
Around 4 regardless
I think it's closer to 3.8 with the 1x flattener.
Bortle 8,London,Nikon D780, 8h20m cose of Bortle.. Sigma 150-600mm Sport no Astro stuff
Looks like dew. Try lens heater. Use background extraction before any other steps. Do you use lens hood? You can make it from carton box or some very cheap on Aliexpress. Also take darks and flats ~25.

andromeda dust details with my canon eos 7d mk ii
Oh dam
Thought I was a bortle 5 for so long, then I realized I don't see anything more than most people can in B6.
Thats even more sad
I'm still glad I'm in the middle of the spectrum and not in the heart of a city.
Yeah, also depends in which direction you're shooting, with a (maybe) different Bortle.
Yii South I have a massive light dome from an airport.
Oof, you can literally forget to shoot MW core without narrowband filters
@noble dagger 5.5hrs of broadband using my T5
Stock cam btw
This is HaRGB
The broadband is more impressive because yea the massive light dome. But it's feasible because stuff is so bright there.
The Broadband?
But what do you mean with more impressive? I think the one with Ha looks better
Broadband one looks cooler
I think heās saying itās more impressive considering the circumstances
Yes exactly, it's more impressive considering the conditions we were discussing
Is your image untracked?
No he was using a Ioptron SGP, but he was using a stock DSLR which cut out some Ha, and wasnt using narrowband filters while in B6
not dew the problem is hes not using calibs, thats a very common lens vignetting issue
why do orion never look good
Waa?
I try so hard but my Orion no look good
Process my Orion
How much integration time?
2h
I got a better process just by doing Orion cropped
Looks cleaner
Looks about as expected for that much time from like b5 or so
What bortle are you in?
B5
Yeah I mean it looks good for that amount of time then, could use a bit of star color but you shouldnt expect to get much dust around Orionās nebula
Can you try my data ?
It would mean a lot š„ŗš«š«
Yeah I can have a go at it tomorrow. Getting kind of late for me.
Alright thanks, Iāll try and remember to process it 
Yay š„³
I got some dust I think around Orion
May be able to process it after work today, I'll see.
Itās been like 14 hours at work you on the grind
Nah I was setting up my rig right after work, ended up being clear.
can you procidisn now ā?
š„ŗ
Rip I don't have Photoshop on my second PC
Tomorrow tho
I may be able to take a stab at it
Didnāt you get apod once
Nah lol
Win š
Iām gonna try and work on it tonight once I get home since I canāt get starnet on my school computer 
I do have siril tho and did some stretching and got the colors to look good
You could of prob gotten an Astro cam for the same price š„ŗ
Nah Iām gonna mod all of them, sell them, then maybe buy an astrocam
Iām on the Astro grind
my guy is going for the big money
Yessir
Iāll buy one off you
How much you selling them for
Alright sick
Between $150-175, Iāll determine it once I actually get them hands on and find what condition they are in
Iāll probably have them all done modification by the end of November though
Wait idk if you can ship to Australia
If you can let me know when you finish them and Iāll see if I got the money
Btw your data actually looks pretty good
Iām just trying to get the background to look decent since thereās a bunch of weird splotches
Still looks pretty decent though
Lots of detail in both for wide field
You even got some of Barnardās ring in here
Hey guys, I was doing some research on some DSLR models for astrophotography. I liked the Fujifilm cameras because they have low noise, but apparently there is no Ascom driver for them, so I wouldn't be able to control them using NINA. Then I saw that there are some cheaper Sony models that have partial control via Nina, such as the a5000, a5100, a6000. But the website says it doesn't support liveview; How would it work for Nina? Could anyone who has any of these models here in the group show me? Can i see the previous frame coming out directly on the Nina screen or is that not possible on these older models?}
I'll probably buy an Asi294. But before I get one, I'm want to get a cheaper Sony camera to do some experiments
I donāt have any of those cameras, but your correct about NINA showing you the last frame taken as your camera should send all the photos it takes directly to it
@tepid root https://drive.google.com/file/d/109sqaYd_he8-Ib1qPDV7EKrRIu1synOX/view?usp=drive_link not my best work by any means, but I just tried to get as much data as i could out of it. Will probably reprocess and try to remove the gradient earlier on and work on the stars more
heres the unstretched one https://drive.google.com/file/d/16JiG8pliCQUzHG4EMI_iBghdCKdLwAmy/view?usp=sharing
Woah is that the same data?
This is my older data lol I tried it
Final process
Ah ok, I was afraid my processing skills severely lacked 
The one I sent now was from almost a year ago the one you did was from like a few weeks ago. The old one I did had more data.
You can try the old one if you want but itās hard to process
My new one the only issue was walking noise and banding
I found the gradients to be a bit of a problem too, there's a weird dark spot between orion's nebula and the center star in his belt. Wasn't sure how to get rid of that.
I want me a blue puppy
I can pick up a Canon 450D for ā¬50, thinking about doing a full spectrum mod on it. Currently working with a unmodded Nikon D5300. You guys think the cannon is worth the price and will deliver more nebulosity?
Posted this in general chat but maybe more for in here
450d modified is very capable. Your 5300 is way better tho.
The D5300 has a Sony IMX sensor I believe so instantly better than Canons in house architecture.
But again for ā¬50 it's crazy for the price.
I've been using the 450d for years now.
I modified it last year.
Been going strong
Just finished some heart data with it.
Hmm yes I thought so, maybe just for fun and practicing on modifying. Too scared to do it on my beloved 5300 yet
But in terms of pixels and sharpness I have no clue on what's better haha
@hoary cradle Yii I'm finishing up processing and I'll upload it afterwards
D5300 is much higher res at 24mp iirc
Smaller pixels will get finer detail
Of course considering your optics can hold up
Looking forward to it!
130 pds and a baadr mpcc mark III
I think the eq-5 pro im using is holding it back a bit. Only can go as far as 3 minute subs
These are my best images so far with it
Both cropped though
Also bidding for a 3200, broken glass on the lcd but therefore also ā¬50. This one has 24mp I believe
Yeah SVbony guiding haha, had the cheap sv105 camera from when I started imaging and bought a sv165 to use it with
Works ok..
Thanks!
Any noticeable backlash on the EQ5?
Just a little on the Dec, I think I was quite lucky with my eq-5
Hmm, I would imagine thats limiting you to the 3" subs you stated before?
Yes could be, don't have a lot of experience and haven't really got the chance to Investigate it further. Also just ran a calibration once on phd2 and haven't touched it since.
Also using the 3 point polar alignment in NINA because I don't have a view on Polaris from the location I'm imaging. There are too many causes that could cause it
Not really, the screws were a bit loose last time I used it but it has not changed position on the tube
I'm not confident about it because when I did the calibration I didn't read about it properly and had no clue what I was doing.
Yea if the cam changes rotation at all the calibration won't perform optimally as far as I know.
Ah I see, will do a new calibration next time then
Yea try that, and it would be worth it to look into adjusting the backlash on Dec. Lots of guides online I believe.
Yes definitely will do that too, lot of time for it now with the current weather
Btw did you do a full spectrum mod and cooling as well?
Curious about how much cooling will affect the noise
Just Ha, I'd recommend just Ha mod as it's the easiest plus there's not much point on doing full spectrum unless you want to do infrared daytime photography.
Also yea cooling makes a huge diff. Peltier coolers that can cool sensors 20-40° C below ambient reduce noise a hell of a lot. But it is rather complex and in depth to make a peltier cool for DSLRs, atleast for me.
So I've skipped that and just make sure to get good darks and a lot of them.
Haven't had any issues with walking noise if my darks are proper.
The easiest yeah? I thought for full spectrum you just need to remove the glass. What makes Ha easier?
For cooling I have easy access to a 3d printer so maybe I can try something out when I have the chance haha. But taking darks are easier for sure
No, full spectrum requires you to replace the filters with new custom glass
Which is like $70
Yii this too
Oh didn't know that, but you also have to place new glass for Ha too right?
Nah Ha you just have to remove one filter and leave the other in
Oh ok thanks for the info!
Also cooling should be fairly easy to achieve, you could probably cad something up that just slots and screws in in place of the LCD screen since once you get the LCD out thereās just a hole in the back of the camera for you
That paired with a low voltage fan, a plug to power it and a step down you should be good to go
Yeah but maybe some kind of dust filter is nice though
Peltier is much more in depth of course
If you want simple fan cooling than yea that's actually not too bad
Well then cad some holes into the plate, and also a cover for those holes when your not using it
Yeah true
Don't know if a simple fan is enough for cooling
Not regulated and will likely only bring it close to ambient which is still useful.
Yep also true
For the price and time making it may be worth it.
Well I don't even have the dslr yet so we'll see, I think I'll go for the d3200. It's on auction and still the highest bidder. Asking price is only ā¬50 but my highest bid is 25 now
So let's hope for the best
My brother is a engineer with lots of experience in small electronics so that makes it a lot easier for me haha
Yes definitely, peltier cooling needs an enclosed space though right?
@twin pawn looked you up and added you on IG man, great images
Yup, many people make a styrofoam shroud for the cam
Seems to be a lot of pre assembled thermoelectric coolers online for 30-40 USD, for general use of course but I'm guessing some could be attached surprisingly easily.
Ah yes I see, also a lot of them are 12v. Makes it pretty easy
Indeed
This is an adapter to screw 1.25" filter or reducer to Clip on Canon DLSR Camera
You must print it with superior quality, I used 0.1mm layer height
You will not get good thread with 0.1 layer height
Thanks, Enjoy!
Print Settings
Printer:
ANET AT4
Rafts:
Yes
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.1mm
Infill:
15%
Does anyone know if there is any adapter or 3D project of this type for Sony cameras? A5000, a6000...
As far as I know, Sony can only be modified as full spectrum. So I would have to use an IR-UVCUT filter and eventually I would like to use a CLS.
Did you already get one of the Sony mirrorless aps-c cams?
Unless your using it for daytime as well I would rather get an imx 533 or at the very least a Canon cam with more filter support.
I'm going to buy a 294. But I need a mirrorless too... Canon can't do it, because its sensor is too far back. It probably wouldn't focus on my telescope
Wanted to share this. With 1d mark II and Samyang 85mm 1.4 manual
I finally got a pretty nice photo after a while 
modified?
also acquisition please
Yup, also acquisition is 4 hours I think
That reminds me I have to take a photo of my 7 canon XSIs later because itās just absurd
I thought I was bad with 2 xs and 1 xsi š
Veil 2h new data, 1h old data
VoilĆ
XSi army
canon gang
š Iām not the only one addicted at least
Hey what lens FL did you use?
I'd like to image it (I have a 200mm) but I cannot seem to find it
Does it show a small line like andromeda does/
I didn't use a lens, I used a 130mm Vixen and my DSLR
Sorry, I should have been more specific about my image
Ohh that's very cool! What's a vixen?
No problem at all!
Btw can you share your data, i'd like to try it out a bit
oh no haha the fl is 600mm so its F/4.5
Ohhh haha okay, cuz I was wondering how you got that with a 130. Do you think its possible with a 200?
My lens is 200mm is it possible or nah?
how wide is the lens?
Also how did you find it?? I cannot find it!
yeye
Is it possible with a 200?
Do you know your Focal ratio?
For the 200?
yes
ITs F 2.8
what kind of camera?
Its a canon EOS 6d Mark II
one sec
KK
the red box is your camera and lens FOV on M33
so you can very much capture it, just not as magnified as my image
Ahh cool. Can you crop it?
its (in my opinion) an easy target
Would that work? I captured andromeda with an 85, cropped it, and it turned out really nice
I mean once you have a fully stacked image and crop it during processing
(I want to reget andromeda with my 200mm lens)
Alr. But how do you find it
I spent so long looking
In the sky?
Yeah well I live in a bortle 7 lol
do you have a mount that can track
No, not enough money yet
Yeah
So if you can get an approximation on where its located, you can take a few test images to see if its in view
I had to do this before I got my mount
What does it look like? Do you recoomend an ISO?
also, here is the tiff : )
Thanks!
What does it look like through a 200 (single frame unprocessed straight outta the camera)
Do you see like a small core thing like you do with M31?
M33_YE š
Love the name
ye lmao
And i am unsure, M33 isnt as bright as Andromeda
and the core of M33 is bright but not nearly as much
Yeah, so how can I know if I got it or not
Should I like get a frame, run it through the Astrobot
see if it sees it?
And just continue from there?
That could work!
I havent used the bot much tho haha
I should also say, the data for M33 is only 30 mins (it got cloudy after) but im gonna get a few hours worth tonight
Cool!
Thanks
@fleet latch Def not the best but heres my go
How do you like it?
Thats pretty good! PixInsight?
no one can show you that. you have to do that on your own
Re Edit of 3h B9 veil, lots more Ha
Canon 50D unmodded, Quattro 150P, no filter
Kinda miss using noisex trial lol, have to use PS camera raw denoise which is not very good
Hi guys, any thoughts on the Nikon d7000? Seen a great deal again on the market place with 3 Batteries, and a Tokina 12-24 F4 lens for ā¬100
Ah @languid haven you're shooting with a d7000 right?
Yes I have a d7000 although I recentely upgraded to a d750
100 bucks is a great deal
What is the shutter count?
Yes that is pritty good
I thought expected life is like 150000
and the d7000 had a build in intervalomiter so thats good
I also have a d5300 but I want to try out a astro mod on a other camera
Are you tracked?
Probably will use it with NINA but that's good to know though
Yes
The d7000 maxes on 30s exposures and you need a very expensive cable to go over
Like 80 bucks but you can also make a diy cable
But it is sdk supported right?
Ah will look into this, thanks for the heads-up
That's insane haha
Yes its mad
D750 is full frame right?
I assume you made one yourself?
no I was kinda just chilling with with 30s becouse when I started guiding I wanted to go over 30s ofc, but I did not buy or make one of those cables becouse I was planning on buying another camera (the d750) and that one can go over 30s
but you can go over 30s with an external intervalomiter on the d7000
Ah yes I see. After some reading I indeed see there is a serial cable (dsusb?) for shooting with over 30 subs. Just haven't found how to make it or where to buy it exactly. And it probably doesn't work with NINA so maybe BYN is a option
So a bit of trouble but maybe worth it. Again ā¬100 is a steal with the Tokina 12-24 included
yes def
but if you aren't guided its no problem becouse you can just buy an intervalomiter
Yes but I shoot guided. Going for it anyway, fun to hobby around with it and otherwise I'll sell it I guess
I can't imagine there isn't a Chinese company who doesn't sell these cables right
idk I could't find them lol
they are very specific
yes you can resell it and make like 80-100 bucks
Haha nah indeed
Intervalometer it is then
I think there is a good trade in there to make some extra bucks, also bought a d3200 with a broken outer glass screen for ā¬35
Bought the glass for ā¬5 haha
Hahahahaha lol
dsusb should communicate with nina
look at shoestring astronomy for the cable
Sadly they are damm expensive
Yeah for the price it's not really worth it for me. Bought the camera for less. But thanks for the link
joining
does anyone know of astro imaging programs that can use a dslr? I have yet to find one that will detect my t3i
thanks
NINA doesn't pick up my camera, its connected but it doesn't show in the tab for selecting a camera
It wont show up in there no matter the camera lol there should be a option "ASCOM DSLR drivers" or something along those lines
do I have to download that?
ah
Then NINA can register the ASCOM drivers and control the cam
it says I can't run it on my pc even after I say run anyway
click "code" then "download ZIP"
should I extract it?
nevermind
it worked
thank you very much
All good! Happy imaging!
actually I thought it was working but NINA seems to crash every time I try to run the camera
sorry to bother you again
Dont apologies! when you extracted the files did you open the drivers to set it to Canon and what ISO etc? if not you can also do this in NINA by pressing the gears icon near connect
oh I see I didn't do that
I'm Canadian apologising in my blood lol! I am trying to do it in NINA but no matter what I do ascom returns an error saying camera is not connected but I have it connected and my computer sees it, any ideas?
XD what cable are you using? possibility it isnt a data transfer cable so no data can be transmitted or received, if its one that came with the camera its likely not that, what settings did you select in the ASCOM DSLR driver part?
not sure where I got the cable from but I have used it before with my computer to get a bigger live view with EOS utility so I think it is a data transfer cable, I tried both canonsdk and backyard eos, I didn't change the port(that might be the issue in which case I have no clue how to find what the actual port is) I set it to save photos to a folder on my computer and my iso is 800 camera log level is error and ascom trace is still ticked on, Max ADU Overide is not checked, use esternal shutter is not checked and enable binning is not checked
Ahh ok likely not the cable then, when you opened up the ASCOM thing did it ask you what camera? like Nikon F, Canon D and stuff like that?
no I don't think so
Hmm, did you open that menu in NINA?
yes and I found in ascom
oh wait it did
like it says select the type of camera you have
etc
Yeah did you select the right type?
talking about this right?
Uhh possibly, click Properties, what does it say then?
then its the menu
K cool this is the menu, at the top is that the correct thing for your camera? and make sure to set your ISO so its default is whatever you set it as, if the connection method (the top option) isnt correct, then it cant communicate to your camera at all
do you know what method the t3i uses?
ill try looking it up
Quick google says AF/AE so if theres a option of those two or anything close, try those
it only gives me these options
Could try the BackyardEOS option as BackyardEOS was working for you, so maybe using that method of connection could work here
If not i have no idea honestly
What error did it give this time?
actually it is still camera not connected but it gave a different window, before it was just saying camera not connected and that was it
Yeah thats definitely a odd error, pretty strange, im sorry but i genuinely dont know what to suggestš if you click on the "scan for devices" option on NINA does it auto put it on something? ill try looking for some cloudy night threads about it aswell, see if anything comes up
ok well thanks for the help so far
I gotta go have supper but I will go and try and find more later
it auto puts it on the v3 simulator
I think I found one of the issues but now I am getting this, I tried redownloading ascom but that didn't help, not sure what it means though
what is the driverhelper?
2 hours of M33 with a Canon 1100D and a 5 inch vixen
ok im getting somewhere I kind of disregarded that and did the connect thing again and my cameras shutter just went/ the mirror lifted up or down( my camera made a noise) now I am getting this error any help?
Ok so the camera shutter thing is good, thats what you want to happen, no idea what the errors are, but you could always press "continue" and see what happens
yeah
Considering it gives the continue option, the error isnt drastic (thats my assumption anyway)
so
nice
This is the older ascom dslr driver guy named FearL0rd took over the project and has brought it up to date so I downloaded the new one but know its giving me the comm port is in use error anytime I try to do anything. One question whats a comm port?
Sorry was getting tea lol a com port for my understanding is the com port is the thing thats connected to the laptop by a specific "port" based on what youve plugged in and what it is (like how 99% of times if you plug in a mount itll be COM 3) so supposedly the com port that your cam is trying to use is busy, or something else is trying to use the cam/com port
could that be eos utility that is open is trying to use the cam ?
so the prot is busy
If its open theres a good chance yeah
ok
I cant have DigicamControl and NINA open at once otherwise my camera throws a strop at me
LETS GOOOO

so now I have a question that is probably a lot easier how do you set up nina to take multiple pictures ? This is my first time using it so now I gotta learn it
Haha definitely easier thats for sure! in the "imaging" option on the left, after your on that menu on the right it should have a place you can set your exposure length, and id just turn on "loop" and "save", otherways would be to use Sequencer but ive never used that either XD
Cool, Thank you so much now I just gotta wait for a day when the clouds part!
clear skies!
Haha np! goodluck and clearskies!
untracked orion
My best most recent images using my Nikon D3500 full spectrum
astromodded my T3i last night by removing the LPF1 filter, one of the scariest things I've done holy
Completely lost track of the sensor screw positions so I had to guess and rely on luck to get me proper infinity focus and tilt but somehow I managed to get everything in with proper infinity focus and minimal tilt
Autofocus doesn't work anymore because my backfocus isn't proper haha but oh well, it's for astro anyway
Fantastic, what scope?
Thanks! Skywatcher Quattro 150p for all the nebulae, and Celestron C8 for the galaxy! i know how you feel with that modification, its absolutely terrifying 
The Quattro 150P almost seems too good to be true! At the price, you get 500+mm and f/3.45! How has it been doing you with your Nikon DSLR? I may pick one up one day.
Haha its unbelievable for the price! its been amazing so far! ofc its got its downfalls for being cheap, but if im honest its nothing offputting enough for me, i love it, but for example the spider has got some rotation in it and arent perfectly straight so the star spikes arent perfect (very fixable though) and its got mirror clips that appear on stars (just needs a mirror mask) one thing ill say for me is that with the DSLR the coma corrector actually sticks out into the tube a little bit, so thats slightly annoying but its no different to having the mirror clips tbh, its only a little sticking out, and last but not least it does get internal reflections quite easily, flocking would be a great consideration for it! but they are all fairly easy fixes, and for a 6" F4 newt with a CC/Reducer to F3.45 with very minimal coma at APS-C, i couldnt recommend it more if your looking at cheap but good performing newts!
it'd be a dream to capture carina, if only i lived in the south
i'm 15 i can't go there lmao
Ask ya parents
i wish lmao
Travelling that distance for some people is sometimes not an option at all due to costs mostly. My parents visit Florida in the summer only once a year, and that's the most they can in good conscience afford.
My parents cant afford to travel at all
Furthest i go for a vacation is Kentucky, only 1 state away
is this roki135?
Ye
Tried doing HDR orion. Didnāt really go well but itās still a ok image ig
Only 2 hours of data
Why not? Itās easy if you put the work into it
i live in a bortle 8 and have to travel with my dad to a bortle 5. That in itself is 100km round trip
and my dad works so we can't afford to stay out very late
You should try narrowband
People get really good images even in bortle 9
brother i am NOT trynna buy a whole setup lmao
my setup should speak for itself
how broke i am
You donāt need a whole setup for narrowband
Whats your setup rn?
camera and lens, tracker
Thatās a good setup
Yeah 2h from B8 would be good, and if you got a Dual narrowband filter thatd make it even better
Lenhance is great
i'll look into it
Duo band are not like the mono SHO pictures
Plus whats the point of travelling 100km to image a nebula that you couldve from home with a dual NB filter
i know i assumed you were talking about that tho when you first said it
No no, narrowband like that is to much for even me lol
i'd still probably go to b5 even with the l enhance
yea that requires a whole setup. duoband is different
nah you should use it at home and shoot galaxies/broadband targets under your limited time at B5
ur right never thought about that
Yea, just look for the l-enhance at a good price it shouldnāt be that much
Itās definitely better than a 100km drive
looking at £116 for 1.25" £149 for 2" and £175 for EOS clip in from FLO
Used you may be able to get it for cheaper
yup
can confirm
I live in a b8-9 zone and it works well for me
I was just messing around with old data because my mount is broken. I cropped into the core of orion and stretched a bit
The photo it came from
51 minutes M42 - Bortle 9 Quattro 150 with stock 50D
50 minutes M45 - Same conditions and equipment
Breath taking
This on a DSLR? Also with lenhance?
Got this on a d5300 with 1/1.5 hours now
Thinking about a dual band but don't know if I can get my tracking good enough for longer exposures
Yea with a dlsr. No filter, this was a while ago
What mount do you have?
Ah I see, cool diffraction spikes btw
SW eq5 pro goto
So with a lot of work it could track good enough I guess. But I'll have to tear the whole mount apart first
You could definitely do duo band, just get guiding and you should be fine with it
Duo band doesnāt take as much as narrow band. I think of it as a light pollution filter but thinner
I have tracking but the longest exposure I was able to get is 180 seconds. Get to balance the equipment and polar alignment good but still it's having a hard time
180 secs is more than enough duo band does not take a lot
L enhance or l ultimate, I donāt really do duo band so fact check one of those (note that the l enhance is broader than the ultimate but it cost less
I heard people getting good results with the sv220 duo band filter to
What scope and camera would you be using?
Dual band filters are narrowband filters, just with 2 wavelengths instead of one lol
light pollution filters are bad
duoband are not
Im using a 130pds and a Nikon d5300 right now. Also have a sv305 pro for guiding and some planetary mainly
I'll look into this one. I'm into budgetty things haha
Assuming the D5300 isnt modified id go with a Lenhance rather than the SV220 or L ultimate
No it's not modded, lenhance is less narrow?
Yeah the L enhance is 10nm while the SV220 is 5nm and Ultimate 3nm, having that wideness is useful for a non modded DSLR as they already lack sensitivity due to the built in filters
Ah I see! Thanks a lot
Np!
I didnāt suggest a light pollution filter
M33 Reprocess - Stock 50D
M81 group. 25 minutes of data.
Untracked, Canon 600d, Samyang 85mm f1.4, stacked and processed with siril
85mm is the problem here, the object looks too small. By gathering more photos, will i get a far better picture, since not a lot of details can be captured by just a few pixels?
yes
That is how that works 
Guys, is m81 brighter than m33?
I guess m81 "appeared brighter" because it is closer to Polaris, which allowed me to use a slower shutter speed, but whatever, here is 28 min of untracked m33
I will go somewhere really dark this summer over night, because my backyard is quite lit up, the horizon is like really bright and stars are hard to see because of light pollution
Oh damn, thanks
Yeah, I am using an 85mm F1.4 doing the andromeda, and even though its so small but all that data lets me crop it and still get insane details
I am thinking of modifying my canon eos 2000d (removing the filter)
And using a dual narrowband from a city with a 130pds
Is this a good idea?
Great idea! i modded my D3500 awhile ago, and it really helps with nebulae, adding a dualband made it even better too
Even from a light polluted city?
Absolutely
My first shot at the horsehead
I didn't take enough darks and therefore have a noise problem
I think there was also dust on my sensor?
Sure looks like it
Just take some flats
Also a lot of that noise is walking noise so it canāt be removed without longer integration or less harsh processing
But most of that noise seems to be color noise so you could do color noise reduction to help get the background a bit more uniform
Will try this tomorrow
I did take flats but I think not enough,
Then you probably want to invest in a sensor cleaning kit
Dither or die
m45 133 pictures 800iso , 2,5 sec shutter time, 200mm f/4, stacked with sequator and processed with siril and gimp. after i went in i realised the stars had trails:(
Why sequator?
why not?
?
It's the worst stacker of all time.
You deepskystacker or siril
Avoid sequator at all costs
okay thanks ima try dss
Is this image stretched?
yea
hi i have a full specturm dslr and i was wondering what filter would compliment the pictures
im using a ts photoline 80ed with a canon eos2000d
If you're using a dedicated scope, you can probably use normal threaded filters. The best one is probably the l-ultimate, but an apl-t or l-extreme are good options as well
Would it be better to get a filter for the front of my camera lens, or get a filter drawer?
This is not for narrowband, just for a diffusion filter for soft colorful stars
im thinking about getting a deditcated astro cam in the future but and i was wanted to know which filter would be good for the dslr and one i can possibly use with the astro cam
nerd level images 
real
13hrs of iris nebula 115 * 7 minutes at ISO 1600, unmdified Canon 6D on a F4 SW Quattro 8 on EQ-6R, editd with siril, denoised. Got some reall nasty green glow due to solar activity, but managed to salvage the image anyway
How do i connect a 2 inch filter to my canon dslr
My telescope is a 130pds
If you're going to be using different filters throughout the night, probably use a filter wheel
Just one filter for the moment
Can't get proper spacing with a fw and a dslr
Do you have a coma corrector for the newt?
If so it should have 2" filter threads on the bottom... If you don't have a CC then any 2" nose piece that slides into the focuser should have 2" filter threads as well.
Can i 3d print it?@twin pawn
A 2" nose piece could be 3d printed for casual imaging use but can cause issues simply due to the fact that it's less rigid than metal and the needed thread pitch is likely too fine for fdm printing.
Resin printing is likely too brittle but not quite sure I don't have too much experience with resin.
i wouldnt trust plastic to hold hundreds of dollars worth of equipment
I have bad experience with that 
Iām never using printed parts again for screws or a base to anything
Luckily i noticed it and caught the cam and ball head
What's the name of The thread that goes to the camera ring?
t ring
How do you guys take proper darks with a dslr since the temperature changes?
You donāt
I just take 15 at the beginning of my shoot and 15 at the end
then just hope it kinda averages out
Does it work?@fading osprey
As long as you have darks that are no less than around 3° at the beginning of the sequence and no more than around 3° at the end of the sequence you'll see an improvement, especially if your dealing with walking noise or amp glow.
+/- 3° of your average light frame temp
Just a good rule of thumb.
If you have a several dark frames throughout the session that actually match some of the light frame temps than your set.
Do the fan modifications work?
Yeah i guess, i live in a very hot climate (70-75 degree nights) so itās hard to tell
I am thinking of putting a fan and a peltier cooler on my dslr
E
that would be pretty simple, the back LCD unscrews normally and you could measure it out and print an adapter
Sorry for replying to an old post but it seems no one knows this: Canon DSLRs (at least the older ones) have a temp sensor inside - NINA and APT can read it and you might be able to read it in windows file explorer. I just took a bunch of darks outside over an entire rainy night (under roof of a balcony and noted down the tempature for each dark - you can most likely get the same temp. another tactic is stick it in the fridge or freezer. Another thing is that darks colder than the lights will correct less but will still work while darks hotter will start to remove data
I might try the fridge thing
It sounds cool
be cautions of condensation though, can get annoying
Image taken with Sony a6000 350mm f/6.3 lens with iOptron skyguider pro(aligned with phone compass, polaris ain't visible from here). Total of abt 1hr of integration
what happened to the alignment the stars are destroyed
Sequator stacking artefacts
I don't know if he used sequator, but these artifacts happened in my photos when I used sequator instead of pixinsight
Carina Nebula
18x1.3s(i think)
8000iso
f6.3
Im gonna need much more frames next timd
Yep i know, gotta take more frames next time
Better than my first carina tho, it was a single frame from before i learned stack8kg
what focal length is this?
@brazen crystal 85mm, cropped also
should I go for the nikon d7500 or z50 for astrophotography and general photography? for the z50 I'll need an adapter and the dumb ones are bad, with both i plan to use the roki 135
perfect, im untracked as well and have been wondering for a while if this target is possible
how long was each individual exposure?
D7500 seems solid, has a IMX 321 from what I've gathered online.
Z50 is likely a newer sensor but yea a good adapter can be quite a bit.
Although you should be able to find a non AF Nikon Z to F adapter for way under 100.
whatever u do dont go for the d3400, ik that wasn't one of ur choices but it doesn't have a remote shutter release port
make sure whatever camera you buy does
adapters are chaotic, cheap ones can only take full manual lenses because you can't even co trol aperture of standard lenses and they get many focus and tilt problems
native mounting is the best
Hi, sorry for late reply, one sub is 2.5 seconds
thanks
I just purchased the nikon z50, it should work with ascom dslr driver right?
should work in theory, i would check the driver compatability
well ascom uses digi drivers or smthn which has nikon z50 in the list but not on github, ill try connecting to nina directly
Itās only 2 hours and I forgot to check collimation, so the stars look bad. Iām still proud of it I think
The stars look great imo
Mmm, stars arenāt triangle š
My phone wouldnt let me zoom in the image, nowni see it š
hes got the stars sponsored by doritos
Bruh šš
I got my collimation fix now, all my data has triangles and I donāt wanna redo it so Iām switching targets
other than that good image though
alr, gl
Thanks, probably gonna do m51
First 2 hour on m51
im assuimg ur tracked right
Yea
Stars might have trailed a bit because of winds
what tracker do u use? i want one but i dont wanna go broke in the process
I use the star adventure 2i, thatās probably the cheapest good tracker there is
What scope
Orion spaceprobe 130st
Yea
Nice was thinking about buying one!
But not anymore Iāll stick to only a camera no scope
I wouldnāt recommend it tho if you wanna do photography with it, because itās made for visual
Yea I know
mod canon 6d
like once you notice it, you cant get your eyes off it
What are the best targets/category of targets for a stock dslr?
anything oiii
galaxies
dust
All i have is clouds so all I have is old data to process
I didnāt notice that I almost got some of the background dust in the image till I processed it better now.
This is just the stacked lights, edited, but no callibration, also in b9
Stacking it with dbf right now
Much better than my last ones
579x1/1.3s
10000iso
b9
f6.3
I imagine how the image wouldve been if the lights were taken at b5 or lower
Why the mustard yellow?
But calibration frames removed it so maybe it was the light pollution
Just use the hue slider in lightroom or whatever you use, then turn down vibrance and the color u are changing the hue ofās saturation down to blend the color nicer
Also those colors probably arenāt accurate bc my phone screen is tinted rn
Hi
People are working with Nina here?
I'm always using a trusty Nikon d5300. Always works and never had any problems. Yesterday I wasn't able to connect to Nina with the error of 'unable to adjust shutter times'. I was in manual and everything setting was ok. I was able to connect to digital cam control as well..
Maybe is the cord your using?
Wel I doubt it because digi cam control is working fine with live view etc
Canon EF 75-300mm f4.0-5.6 III Anybody know anything about that lens? Is it any good?
Using a USB dongle?
I had issues with mine and then I connected my 2000D directly with mu computer and no issues since
Its pretty awful
i own it, it varies from bad to terrible, i think if you point it somewhere high the internal elements get moved slightly and the stars become terrible
are you using the right Iso for your camera?
Ik, but changing the iso could improve the noise to signal ratio
the issue is the lack of signal thats it
changing the iso only reduces the read noise slightly.
theres also some star trailing in the first image
the intended focus of the images was "oh in the 1st image the stars are normal, but in the 2nd they are triangles"
The second image could be out of focus
nope
could it be caused by a glare?
You using a newt?
If so your collimation is far out, or possibly pinched optics
no just the cannon 75-300mm
Still a good chance for pinched optics then
#1034767907495874572 message
Iād imagine if that was the case itād appear regardless of direction, but also knowing those lenses, they probably would do that XD
either that or its a temp thing
Yeah whichād be pinched optics, nothing a dew heater wouldnāt fix
i think what im gonna do is just not use it and use the tpo ultrawide 180mm, which doesnt do that
and gets more light input
i may be stupid
have you tried stopping down your lens
bad, get a prime
Practice on Arcturus, a red giant star. Before processing the beehive cluster.
Oh that does look bad, I was considering a cheapish lens I could buy for landscape/ normal (animals etc) photography
I usually use a photoline 80ed for astrophotography which is my way to go. I have a 150/750 ts optics newt but I hardly use it although I love the spikes of the stars it producesā¦..
Beehive cluster on the 24th.
Unmodified Dslr, Untracked
~3 minutes total exposure, Iso 800, Calibrated
3.2 sec single exposure time
Bortle 4-5
any tips for improving this next time?
(Besides get more data, lol)
what lens?
Stock
do you know what mm it is?
no
what camera is it?
yeah that isnt enough focal length (i think)
I'm gonna get it hooked up to an 4.5" newt soon. Just waiting for clear skies to test it
the cannon EF to nikon F introduced some aberrations. It's my second astro pic
Noice
Noice
Canon 550d
Tamron 70-300 lens
Very nice
Thank you! but I really donāt like the āovalā stars in the photo
No itās great still
I have heard about a solution to such stars
I donāt remember it tho
blurx 
Hello
Hi
does anybody know what is causing this problem on the top?
okay looks like it was a bad flat frame
seem like my flat, bias and darkflat were bad
That also happens in the photos, the picture gets lighter from top to bottom, idk why my flats are bad
Did you run background extraction?
It would atleast somewhat reduce it
any dslr recommendations
Gets a lot more worse
Damn
Might just be dust etc on the optics bc left the scope out for 3 days, capped it though during the day
.......
Pollen š
Eos 2000d/ rebel t7 I use that, cheap and produces good pics
Buy one of my astromodded 450ds
(They honestly work well as long as you donāt have 70f nights)
Just make sure the pixel size fits ur scope well if u do consider buying one
My first image with my Canon 450D, also just wanted to ask if there is any way to stack RAW images from my camera?
Iām pretty sure you can drop cr2s into deep sky stacker and go from there, or use sequator which is what i used to do when i shot without Asiair, but it kinda sucks
Alright sounds good Iāll have to check DSS tomorrow thank you
Why does the camera have a black border/ vingetting on top?
Looks like it's the shutter speed 1/4000 might be a bit too short. 1/2500 works out well
C/2021 S3 comet at 85mm (obviously cropped in)
They're the same picture
Got a diffraction spike filter
Also found a 40yr old 300mm lens, which goes to f4.5
Much better than the f6.3 i had
@regal edge has one
Look in the middle, a faint tail appears and disappears
4 hours on Sadr butterfly nebula
Canon EOS 4000D modded
Took 11mins of horsehead at 8000iso today, will take more 11 mins in the next few days
Until i get 1 hour
Why at 8000iso?!?
Way to much, your just gonna show a bunch of noise
Bortle 9
I can deal with the noise in post
Plus if i went with lower iso, i would need more exposures, and by the time i was done today orion was almost gone
Some buildings block it
Even with that i couldnt get anything damn
If anyone is able to get anything out of it
Ill try horsehead again when im not in bortle 9
all stock setup, including the lens. stock t3i and stock 75-300mm
and yall say this lens is terrible
stock d3300 and a 70-200mm lens I accidentally dropped
this depends on the camera
higher iso gives less noise, but at the cost of dynamic range
hoe much exposure time
thats very good
just over 4 hours
thats very nice
yeah, Iām pretty happy with how it turned out, although I should probably start looking for a new lens or getting it repaired since the decentering on this is almost unbearable now
haha
true
but the image is amazing
u should buy a new lens if you ask me
a prime one with higher aperture
getting more data in less time would be easy then
also repaired lenses have problems in the future too, factory onrs are sweet
Yeah, Iām looking at the Nikon 300mm f4 one right now, Iāve seen people say it does really well
no
dont go for
nikkor lenses
they are very costly
look into third party ones
Vintage lenses are pretty affordable
And theyāre built like tanks
i use the samyang 135
I would have got one but I just prefer longer focal lengths
this was a 32 min exposure at bortle 4
Good copies for it are just stunning with how well they perform
this was a 10 sec exposure on bodes
yup
at f2
the stars look very bad
but when u shift to f2.8
its amazing
Yeah, it saves an insane amount of time dropping down to even f2.8
Have you ever sh0oted using it?
Tested it yesterday on horsehead, light pollution ruined it but the stars came out nice
Got this shot of sirius with it tho
Note that this is unstacked and edited
send a photo of the lens, and a raw file please
ill do it in a few hours
Iāll try it out when I get the time
Lower iso isn't always better
I know that but 8000?
Yeah I agree it's a bit much
not through discord
Oh dang okay and one thing I donāt like about my image is the crescent reflection you can see by the moon
oh i didnt even notice until you brought it up lol
What lens and settings did you use for that?
I shouldāve stayed silent
@btc.777lol as @fading osprey said the 450d is solid for the money, especially when modified.
All with a modified 450d and small frac
Duoband filter under bortle 6 skies
All around 4hrs integration
Core is blown out, but Iāll get to fixing that a bit later. Stock d3300 w/ Nikon 300mm f4 IF ED ~ 3.5 hours integration
stock dslr untracked
Will it be safe to connect my camera with the samywang 135 to this?
it's a head from theyripod i use
it fits nicely on the dovetail plate
I'm just concerned bout the weight of samyang 135
Stock canon 550d
Tamron 70-300
Should be fine as long as it's secure
Kinda like a makeshift riser block lol
it wasn't safe
started bending when I put the roki on lmao
Ahh yea nvm
I'll stick with camera mounted on dovetail abd secured with velcrow
Does anyone have or know anyone that has the Canon EOS 4000D dslr? If so what mini usb cord can be used to connect my camera to my windows computer (preferably on Amazon)? Mines recently broke
Nikon D3300 and 300mm f/5.6 zoom lens
Would like some feedback on this. First time doing some milky way shooting. Editing was a pain in the *** and the lens had some flare from the neighbors camping next to us. Had the 'luck a car drove by in the middle of the night and exposed the trees for a moment. Also lens fogged up after 30 shots or so and of course I don't have a heater
was this tracked?
Yes, it tracked with a āhomemadeā tracker
what is that
i have a full german equatorial goto mount
but id like some tskr and go mount too
for mysamyang
135
just trust me, it works and works very well
I know why you are surprised, this tracker is made only in Russia and only by one person
Modded?
Stock d5300. About 7 hours
It's cool, does he sell globally?
I don't know, but it's unlikely
I see, curious about the spring system you mentioned though
It works like an alarm clock, you wind the spring and it transfers energy to the rotation mechanism and with the help of āsomethingā it synchronizes the rotation with the speed of the rotation of the earth
that denoise tool is funky
8 hour Iris nebula with canon EOS 4000d
I have a canon 90D with a EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III USM lens. this is my first attempt at shooting the moon. I think in came out ok let me know what you think?
the first one in unedited jpeg strait from the Camera. the other is the raw edited in Digital Photo Professional 4.
