#Phone Astrophotography
1 messages Β· Page 18 of 1
How small the scope
102mm
Me too, it's literally bucketlist for me
That's messed up
To the naked eye, they are gigantic. And you can see them well. Think about how the moon practically looks like a star in a cellphone lens; now compare that with the LMC, which remains relatively large even through a cellphone lens... They are immense
The LMC occupies 10 degrees of the sky; by comparison, the moon occupies only 0.5 degrees. The LMC takes up the area that 20 moons would... Gigantic
No wonder it's the large magellanic cloud
Might go to a b5 this summer
and it's only magnitude 0.9....
or 0.13 which is what wikipedia says
such a bright massive object
what I'm just saying it's green so it looks like a kiwi
I got that
how is that messed up.
it's a harmless little joke
how is that even close to anything messed up
it is literally a kiwi
Sometimes, the chromatic aberration in my images looks like eric cartman from south park lol
What
can relate π #1020657687291252797 message
failed north american nebula attempt
it was a completely experimental version
π
If you stretch the image really far you can see it starting to appear at the bottom of the image.
Looks like it was cropped out of the FOV a bit
Oh wow
What edits did you do?
Ill try a longer exposure time tonight
I just brightened the image and stretched the histogram, a lot π
Unexpectedly good conditions on a trip.
B4 location but nothing but an iPhone and phone stand.
Attempt at shooting the North America nebula:
iPhone15, 6 seconds x200, ISO 4000. Stacked and edited on the same phone
Crop of North America nebula
It was just a 3 min video tracked and then I stacked all the frames together
I don't have tracking unfortunately
You can still get good Jupiter data, you just gotta record for 3 mins and keep Jupiter in frame
i want to get into astrophotography and ive got no idea where to start is there anyone i can talk to for advice/recomendations?
This is a single 6 second exposure I took back in February (handheld)
How big of an aperture does your setup have for that to be only six seconds?? That's nuts for six seconds
#π€-ask-a-nerd or ask in #π¬-general-chat , I recommend looking into a telescope, specifically telescopes called dobsonians. If you need any help when it comes to phone AP you can ask here
Bortle?
bro this is 25sec integration in b4
how did u get that in 6 goddamn sec
I rested my 40 lb 10" newtonian on my leg to take this
It was like 10 sec exposure
That was 2 years ago
Or no
Last year
sorry handheld???
Probably rotating the Mount axis by hand to follow along a bit..
I did that a lot in 2021 when I didn't have OnStep
π
I'm just waiting for Orion to return bc it's one of my favorite objects to shoot, like I have 0 clue what to shoot when it's gone
12"
4.5
Yes, I took that with a 12" Dobsonian telescope, 32mm eyepiece and a Google Pixel 6
bortle 4.5 and 12 inch aperture and this result with 6 seconds handheld?
im jealous
Milky Way from B4. iPhone15 4s x600, ISO 3000
(Excuse the shameful amount of walking noise)
My best milky way (it's extremely faint bc of the moon but it's barely visible to the right of it)
Whats that bubble thing
I think moon glare
Oh alr
Reflection of the moon on my lens
Why are all my pro mode pictures coming out soo bright like this?
Iβm doing 30s exposure and 800 iso
Anyone with a Samsung know what to do?
normal
that's normal when you go to process it'll be fine
also use deepskycamera
i tried using that its alot more confusing compared to the ios app
it's not confusing whar
idk its worse than astroshader by alot imo
i was trying to only take 1 image but it keeps taking 100+
The DSC update is kinda annoying it's hard to tell which tab does what because it doesn't have text that says anymore it's just an image
go here and set it to 1
ig but the icons are fine imo
Yeah I just dunno which icons do certain things lol
are you using the astrophoto mode in the expert raw app?
i dont have that mode on the S20Fe
bortle 6-7
Wow that's really good
I should try the milky way one day, sadly it's too low for me
looks good, discord compression kinda screws it over a bit lol
not really
the original image is not much better
i need to get something to stop doing phone tho
i will get a cheap widefield setup in the future
i have no idea when "in the future" is though
after i get a better mount for my scope but idk when that is too
do you just use a tripod and point your phone up at the sky with DSC or something?
exactly that
well i use the pro mode in the normal camera app first to find my object
then i do that
when will google add pro mode to pixel phones cri
pixel phones dont have pro mode??
nope
i think they added it for the pixel 7 pro, the 8, and the 9, but 6 doesnt have it which is what i have
dunno
Samsung Galaxy S23 βοΈ
What telescope?
SVBONY SV503 102ED with the 0.8x reducer
and i was using a dual narrowband filter
You stacked?
yes
I dont remember the length of the subs or how many i stacked though
it probably wasnt much more than an hour or so on both
What software you used to stack?
i think these were stacked in DSS
Ok, very good pictures btw
thanks 
tracked?
.
Nice details M33 also there @lean magnet
Southern hemisphere perks
Yes
Skywatcher EQM-35 Pro
what happened to the focus slider on deep sky cam? i cant find it anymore ;(
no m110 tho π
i just set it to infinity in settings and it works fine
they moved it to settings?
It's this button if you have it on manual
but i just leave mine on infinity in settings i dont use the focus slider
how much int time on the first one if you know?
White balence
How do you stack with phone? Do you import your lights to the computer and stack it in program like DSS or do you stack on mobile? And how?
Dss
What do I set it at and from where
U can on iphone i think and on registax 6
Registax will be better if u do rgb align and rgb balence
I took them on Samsung
All the raw images came out pink
Oh
Import to pc or laptop
Open registax 6
Open images
Rgb align and balence
Done
Dope thanks
wait registax free right?
yes
and for phone stacking registax better then dss?
for planetary?
then yes
oh well for planetary I use autostakkert
yea thats better
good
I've wanted to learn how to stack dso for so long
got like 7 raw pics of m27 just to try
to learn
but I have to watch some more yt tutorials
get 30
7 won't make a difference?
remember: the stacking process is the averaging of pixels. adding more data is better
well I'll have 2 consecutive clear nights
also deepskycamwra is such a pita to use
but it's the only way to have raw
unless there are some other apps
if youre on ios, use astroshader
android
The Pleiades from 10 minutes ago through my dob. 
clean stars
Surprisingly
Normally the phone camera introduces some kind of field warp or astigmatism but these were pinpoint.
ik

Hello
Fellow pixel peeper here
You stars are ever so slightly trailed
Not noticeable without zoom
bro just had to ruin it
No, just milky way
Quick lil sub
it does
Thats sick
anyone know of any good phone mount 3d models i can 3d print
thx
Np bro
Yeah the new one defo brings out more contrast if thats the right word idk π
yh contrast and saturation
Ye
core is less overblown, colors are less dull π
andromeda galaxy (not proud of this)
better than mine, i stacked 400 subs together and got a smudge lfmao
fyi this is a single sub of it
heres my single 1 sec exposure of andromeda
stacking my andromeda again lets see how it turns out lol
ok
i got this this time
r e d
hmm
red
red
i dont know why its so red but its red
infact there is apparently no green or blue values whatsoever
it is only red
well, ig the data can go to trash, more storage
and a lil more defenitiion
u use iphone?
Huh, I'd say there isn't a more appropriate time to share my most recent capture of Andromeda! Considering everyone's posting their andromeda pics atm, I'll share mine too
dont forget to tell int time its very important to me
This is my most recent capture of M31, taken using my iPhone 12, shot through my Orion StarBlast 114mm dob, imaged and stacked via AstroShader.
Integration time is nearly 12 minutes, at 32,000 ISO.
unfortunately M110 got cut off the final image, hope to do a wider field eventually.
M32 just made it in frame, though.
only 12 minutes and you got the spirals to show? what bortle??
Ok so, I live in a Bortle 8.
However.
The night I took this image was by far one of the clearest, stillest, and darkest nights I have ever experienced where I live, genuinely I could've sworn I could see the arm of the MilkyWay with just the naked eye. I had never seen anything like it.
Idk what happened in my area for the night sky to be as clear and beautiful as it was that night, but there was just so much more visible, it had to be equivalent to a Bortle 5 ~ 6.
Usually, the light pollution is bad enough that you only really see the couple dozen brightest stars with just the naked eye.
That other night, there were thousands.
maybe someone drove into a power line or something and caused a power outage in the direction of andromeda which resulted in less light pollution
literally only plausible explanation i can come up with lol
That could definitely be it, my school recently suffered a huge power outage, enough that they had to do an online day. Idk if they leave the outside floodlights on at night when nobody's there, but if they do, and those were off because there was no power, that might've been it.
i just did 40 mins of andromeda data in a b6 (atleast thats what light pollution map says) and its stacking now, so hopefully it'll actually show something
ah okay nice
I would sure think so, considering I got as much as I did in a probably worse bortle with less integration time
its also the first thing ive shot in like 6 months and it was in the direction of dowtown so there was hella light pollution, but we'll see
Ah ok
i aligned with like 8 stars nearby andromeda so it'd track the best i could possibly get it to
but it still moved around a bit
well, good luck with the imaging and eventual processing!
i have no clue how to process ive always got Prizmo to do my processing lol
Oh lol
mainly because they own some really expensive processing programs that i cant get my hands on
iPhone or Samsung?
who we asking here
no walking noise stacking on astroshader? how
my data is bad
yes
im blaming there being no stars on doing 1000 ISO
because i forgot to change it as i was originally shooting ngc40
just change to max iso
should i try a reshoot on andromeda tn or should i go with what i was planning to shoot tonight which is dumbbell neb
re shoot
yes sir!
hopefully my mount doesnt die because i dont have any spare batteries
my goal this year is to finally get a good galaxy image
because i feel like with how my images come out i could get a really good one
no walking noise stacking on astroshader? how
also reason my data is normally good is because i normally get about 30 gigs of data in 40 minutes
So the original raw file extracted from AstroShader had some noise to it, although I wouldn't really call it walking noise, maybe a tiny just barely noticeable amount of it.
The processing I did afterwards did get rid a lot of the noise though.
ooh ok
crazy
turned out well
Thats sounds like it turned into more like a bortle 3-4
I live in a 6.5 and your description is nowhere close to what i see
yeah, thousands of stars??
seeing the arm of the milkyway?
that is not a bortle 5-6
Ok well, perhaps not thousands. But far more than I could usually see, either way.
still
seeing the arm of the milkyway
ive been to bortle 5 never seen it
few months ago i thought I was in b5
now on my images i saw b6-7 but it's probably b7+
β¦I might be wrong here but have you tried playing with your focus. Iβm thinking this as Andromeda is visible as a blur and the background glow of the sky is bright - so you would definitely expect to see stars in the FOV, whatever your ISO was
last nights data wasnt as bad, although it wont stack because its not detecting stars unless i put the star threshold up to like 1000
b6 according to light pollution map but its prob more like b7 because thats data from 2015
cant even stack because it only detects 2-9 stars in each sub
Another Milky Way shot dragged into mediocrity by walking noiseβ¦
iPhone15, 5s x250, ISO 4000
Yeah there aren't a lot of stars around andromeda
sadge, ill be shooting lagoon neb later tn and hopefully bodes galaxy by next week
I was able to get some really good stacks with lagoon since there are so many stars
It's def a good target for untracked
ill be doing it tracked, but yeah i bet with all the stars stacking is really easy even shooting untracked
if i do andromeda again im gonna get a reducer so i can hopefully get more stars in the image
Mine looks similar just with noise
This is the first time I've been able to capture real diffraction spikes on a star, this was taken last Thursday when the night was unprecedentedly clear and dark.
Prior to this I had never seen real diffraction spikes on a star just looking at I through the eyepiece, and they certainly look even more impressive after about a minute of exposure, as is seen in this image.
Star shown is Vega, btw.
lagoon neb stacked finished with flats added finally, will update on how good the processing is lol
I experienced this when I first saw sirius, I've only ever seen them on sirius, alpha centauri and canopus since mine are pretty dim because my scope's spider only has one thingy (this also makes it so it's only two spikes instead of 3 or 4)
Oh nice, it's cool seeing the different patterns that different spider designs make
I swear I had a pic of Sirius can't find it
This is alpha cen
Back when I used my 56mm monocular to do AP, it would produce two pointed diffraction spikes, which is interesting considering it doesn't have a secondary mirror spider at all
since it's technically a refractor
I think it happens when a lens isn't properly cleaned like to the sides instead of in circles
Ah. That would definitely explain it then, I always wiped the lens off in circles lmao
guess that wasn't a good idea then
Yes they do. The spikes look very very thin but bright. Somewhat like this but thinner and tons zoomed out (this images was taken thru phone)
Wait this is more like how I see
Found this on google
It is interesting, how the three legged spider produces six pointed diffraction spikes, rather than three pointed
Its the same way the one arm spider makes two spikes, just add that 2 more times
Each leg of the spider produces a diffraction line perpendicular to it
perpendicular?
so like that? lol
the yellow lines on the spider represent the diffraction lines (scattered light)
same for the 3 legged
Mine has 3 legs. I think itβs the most beautiful spike type
Now thats a true twinkle star none of that crappy small round circles we see

Does anyone have any tips for deep space phone astrophotography? I can take pictures of planets easily, but my deep space pictures show no nebulosity in things like the Orion nebula.
are you taking subs or tryna do single image, also what equipment do u have
Mines the first
You have to take long exposure imagery to do things like nebulae. Image stacking is also highly recommended. So if you have an iPhone, there's an app called AstroShader that works very well for this. If you have a computer, you can use any free software like DeepSkyStacker to stack your photos.
Equatorial tracking mounts are not absolutely necessary, but they can greatly simplify the process and make it easier in the long run, especially if you don't plan on tending to your mount the whole night of imaging.
You need more exposure time. Both for each sub and the total integration; Here I take 55-second subs and still stack more than 200 subs usually.
do u think ii should use atroshaders auto stack, get a 3 min stack of 500ms exposures, then nudge to the left take another 3min stack and then a lil more for like dithering? and finally stack all the stacks?
what phone
How do you automate dithering when using your phone?
I do manually... Only in deepskycamera pro will automate dithering
Have you ever wanted to use a high quality lens from a traditional camera on your smartphone? If the lens has become the bottleneck of smartphone photography there could be a solution that allows photo enthusiasts to expand their creative possibilities!
My future plans include:
π§ creating a detailed step-by-step guide for modifying your own dev...
Sorry, but I don't like the new pfp
Like, is that a mugshotπ
Vega and Epsilon Lyrae - Backyard Phoenix, AZ - S22 Ultra on a tripod
Ok I'm gonna try figure it out somehow
Is there any way to take long exposure images without a tracking mount?
Stack
Yes, actually. Basically, you just take shorter exposure images, like 0.5 ~ 1 second, five seconds if you're really pushing it and/or your magnification isn't enough for trailing to be extreme after a few seconds.
Take lots of shorter exposure images, the equivalent of or more than the integration time that you'd use with a tracking mount. Basically, if your setup doesn't have auto tracking, but you can manually track the object across the sky and are willing to monitor your setup for a while, instead of taking a single five minute exposure, take 300 one second exposures. It's the same amount of integration time, and once you stack all the images using something like DeepSkyStacker, you'll get roughly the same results as a tracked five minute exposure.
literally just delphinus
Yeah
Andromeda galaxy:
iPhone13 + SVBony guide scope + AZ GTi mount
Captured in AstroShader: 10s x 105, ISO 6000
Edits in AstroShader and iOS photos
Ring nebula s23ultra skywatcher 150/750 bortle 6
What software did you use to edit that pic?
Photoshop
Yummers (single frame)
Final image looking real good
difference between a normal and 1 minute photo
Nice what bortle are you
5 or 6
is there a way to use a phone with a SW Gti for Mw?
Yes you can definitely print a phone mount
how would you set the mount up for it?
unfortunately i cant print a mount and dont have any access to a printer here
Never got to it before I gave my phone mount to my friend but I used to screw one part of it into my Newtonianβs tube rings (where you would attach a second dovetail bar) and then put my phone in there
The screw matched it perfectly
Best image I've been able to take of the moon. Heavily edited.
Cold
Just use a dovetail with a 1/4 screw to attach a ballhead... It's easy to adapt. I use it this way here
Gotcha
Just realized I never shared the image I took of M57 some time ago.
about 5 ~ 6 minutes of integration time, iPhone 12, 114/500 Orion StarBlast dob. Diffraction spikes were added in post, individual exposures were 250ms I think.
Cold
Picture i took off the moon few days ago
This is tonights full moon, unfortunatly cant wake up for the eclipse tonight. But was able to capture this.
Kinda proccesed weird tho
Is there any fix for this type of noise ?
dithering
that's kind of a pain to do manually though
wtf is going on here?
Dither
whats wrong with the mount
Nothing Dithering is what you have to do to stop walking noise
Every few frames you have to shift the position
As others say dithering is the main fix.
Although this would be resolved in the app if you could shoot a dark frame to be incorporated into the live stacking
Ik but why the mount left and right and lef and right and left and right
Itβs dithering
Does it really move that much?
It's a time lapse, moves way slower than it looks like it is
Ik
But i thought it just changes the position ever so slightly
Yeah, watched an tutorial and I think I'll try it next time
how to i get pointy stars with my phone
You mean sharp focus or diffraction spikes?
difraction spikes
For diffraction spikes I like to scratch my lens aggressively in a star shape so it brings out the diffraction spikes more (don't do this it's a joke)
Why do people prefer star spikes ? I've seen people artificially add them , what's the point lol
It looks cool
idk why you want that but since a phone lens is really small string should work
I usually take low grit sandpaper to my mirrors
I find exacto knives to be much more precise
Everyone has been looking for this
aaaa
cccc
(I have an 8 min video I plan on stacking)
they look pretty, and add some character to the image if that's what you're trying to go for.
Most if not all space telescopes end up having naturally occurring diffraction spikes in their images too, so perhaps telescopes like Hubble, Chandra, and even James Webb may have popularized them.
wdym
Are you using just a phone or a lense/telescope?
Telescope 70/700
for taking pictures with a phone what iso and exposure is reccomended for each frame?
5 sec and 6400 iso?
Depends upon target and environment
My first EVER astrophoto with a celestron powershitter 76/700 and iphone 8
It was out of focus lol
well my skies are honestly kinda bad
My newest photo that i have on my phone i have newer on my laptop and better
That was a dslr tho
What bortle level?
π¦«
Damn
Its bad tbh
U also have the same powershitter
Nah
Powershitter army
I did in feb

Nice
But u know what i mean
No
Ye my first telescope
Powershitter 76
Nice brk
I only kept mine for like a month or 2
Now i get these images in just 9 months
Very noisy
But still good
What is that
Light pollution level
Something like this
Yes!
Scroll a bit more
Then you'll see the Bortle level
Mine is class 5
Hey that's not bad
powershitter is now my new favorite slang insult for the Celestron bird jones scopes
Found it on google
this one uses stellarium's light pollution slider so its pretty close
i used to have a really good one but i cant find it
Im using a 60/700, i used paper and copper wires to make a sort of lense-cap type thing
Going to school rn
Will send a picture when i come back
For phone you can bump up the iso and you can use online calculators to find the exposure time
Depends of your scope's aperture and focal length
Okay thiy one is correct
that image shows really long exposures for b1 - b6 and just drops the exposure at b7,8, and 9
ahh
Despite the smoke from the wildfires, I think I'll be able to test the upgrades on the telescope. I hope the larger secondary mirror has solved the issue of missing spike on the edge of the eyepiece
Digizooming with a r60s on the front of the s22 to shoot this again.
Saturn with galaxy 23S in class 5 bortel scale, I decided to go for a raw image, raw unprocessed no exposer nor played with image quality and hand held this is the result
I'm proud of it since like I said this is as raw as it can get, u can see the sphere of Saturn, the rings are a kinda, there blurry
Saturn 9-19-2024 McKinney TX
Lightroom fun
How far did you need to zoom in?
Saturn
When you have clouds but make the most of the lunar glare lol
If you look closely you can see a star π€£π€£ I hate UK weather
Just took this using my open window as a tripod π
With the new eyepiece and cooled phone? 
@exotic merlin
It goes in front of the scope
dont worry about the bendy wires
they get stretched and straight when put in front of the scope
i used some hard chartpaper for the main ring and copper wires for the wires
heres heres a guide if you want other spike patterns
90x
Tysm!!
most welcome ! : )
The Moon with my phone and the moon with my telescope + phone
moon with phone and moon with binocs + phone (using the eclipse pics bc those are the only ones I've used both on)
@tough nest Celestron Astro master 130 + LG Velvet 5G phone
How long was the video? And also hand tracking?
@tough nest single axis RA motor tracking and 7 minutes raw video taken from Motion cam app
@tough nest I was stoked it came out that good too. 1/13 sec exposure time, iso 100. 3 mm focal length eyepeice (6 mm + 2 x barlow) = 217 x magnification. And I'm in bortle 5!
@tough nest 5498 raw dng, preprocessed in PIPP, 30% best frames stacked in AS!4, and post processed in Siril. I did a very small touch of sharpening in Darktable.
So how many frames in total.
?
(were stacked)
since PIPP duplicated frames when it produced the SER file, a total of 9621 frames, 30% of those were used, a total of 2886 frames stacked.
Can you think of any reason why my motioncam app just doesn't work?
It says like: "there was an error something something" whenever I try to hit record
@tough nest have you set your app to store your videos to your internal storage?
@tough nest send screenshot
Nvm
Suddenly started workingπ
I've messed around with it for hours before what the heck!
What phone adapter do you have?
@tough nest Celestron brand phone adapter
So do you just crop out the circle around the around the eyepiece?
Or like that "vignette"
This is what I mean
Ew
Whyd it send like that
Likethis for example
You know what I mean
@tough nest if you take long exposure, like for galaxies and nebulae, you'll want to crop out the circle, yes. When capturing planets you wont see the circle for two reasons 1) because the object is small and will be cropped out of the dark space later when processing and 2) because exposure time is a fraction of a second, eye peice dark space blends in with the darkness of space
Oh makes sense, thank you so much tho
But after getting my new eyepiece, it's going to be raining for the whole week
@tough nest ha ha yep. Clouds and wind make me grumpy when i want to gaze the stars π€¬π«οΈπ¬οΈ
@tough nest also, I use DeepSkyCamera Free for galaxies and nebulae, which my setup is not optimized for. Need field flattener and or coma corrector since the Astro master 130 has spherical mirror π¦
I think it's the same for the heritage 130p
Can't you just take flats?
That might sound stupid
I don't really know what flats, darks, etc do
@tough nest next time I shoot orion nebulae I should use 20 mm eye piece and take multiple 3 second exposures, as recommended by a friend who had a similar set up
@tough nest as for flats dark and lights, your lights are your images. Your darks and flats are taken in very specific ways and are used as calibration frames. Darks for instance you take with camera in complete darkness (no light getting to the sensor). This is so you only capture the noise your camera produces when taking photos. Flats are taken only allowing light in the sensor such that the histogram is peaked in the middle. One way is to put a white shirt over the aperture of the scope and taking frames with the exact focus and camera setting you took when you captured your target, but do so early in the morning or late in the evening to get the historgram right. Others have used artificial light produced by a monitor, bulb, or ipad to get the right amount light. The purpose for doing this is to capture the out of focus artifacts in your image due to dirty optics and thermal noise produced by some cameras.
@tough nest another term for using calibrated frames is called NUC (nonuniformity correction) typically a term associated with midwave infrared cameras but can also be done with color cameras
My r60s has a 30mm Kellner, should be fun this evening
why are you clowns pinging each other in your messages
@potent gorge ??
@zealous scaffold ??
@potent gorge hi, how are you?
@zealous scaffold I'm doing amazing wbu?
@zealous scaffold did I tell you my milkyway image came first place for my unis Astrophotography comp?
@potent gorge im doing good, other than the fact that my google pixel 9 pro fold was delayed by 2 days, so now i dont get it today but get it on monday instead ;(
@potent gorge you did not tell me thatt!! congrats!! im assuming "unis" is university?
@zealous scaffold yep! So I believe I've won a $1000 bintel gift card. Awaiting to receive it and if my omega nebula image won anything
@potent gorge what is bintel?
@zealous scaffold the binocular and telescope store in Sydney
@potent gorge oooh thats sweet, get me a ap modified dslr while your there!
@potent gorge anyways i gotta get back to playing surf, have a fantastic phenomenal supercalifragilisticexpialidocious day! :)
@zealous scaffold cya
@autumn prairie im excited to see what you post π
just did a test run and my phone attachment doesn't work with the eye piece. π
Tried to shoot Arcturus to align everything for Vega in a bit, I'm west coast.
I don't know if it's better to shoot Orion neb like that or with 25mm piece
Do you have an opinion?
@tough nest I dont have a 25mm eye piece. I have a 6mm, 10mm, and 20mm and a 2x barlow. I could get a 25mm eye piece but i just havent yet. i'll make that judgement based on the results from the 20mm.
Which one do yall think is better? The one with Color or the one more brownish
Left looks way more natural
Ye i thought so too
π lmk when you get a chance to shoot it
The color is accurate right?
Something is a little off if you look at it really close but not rlly
That sucks lol
Looks amazing thanks!!
I looked out the window a couple of hours ago, the stars were not shimmering with different colors, and the sky was in a small haze, it was decided to go to the planets. In general seeing was just amazing, the eye could clearly see the stripes and GRS, I looked at 200x magnification . The Moon was in the smallest details, it felt like in orbit. Mars was already possible to see, you could see the disk and some detail, but still small.
I took this photo with IPhone XS using AstroShader program, all processing was done only on the phone without using PC. Eyepiece projection through 6mm 66Β°, 2x omni + tube from another Barlow, SW 130PDS, SW Eq3-2 OnStep.
I like it
Good work
really really good Jupiter for phone
crop the frame so its centered though :)
Thanks!
Probably the best Jupiter I've seen on a phone
nice which one u think has more detail
2
@timid wedge the one to the right
β
Left has better detail but star trailing
yh
i find it funny how all the saturn imgs for the next year or so will look like a circle with a line in the middle
idk y it's just funky
Yeah
Goofy planet
But cool planet
Probably my favorite planet
Is there any effective way to get rid of atmospheric distortion while using a phone? I'm assuming there is a filter, but I haven't really dabbled in filters yet, don't have the money
I don't mean a phone filter lol, I meant a telescope filter
Uhhhhhhhh
You'd have to have good weather for thst
I live in the UK atmosphere is mid sometimes it's best to have low humidity and no to less cloud cover
Atmosphere is a natural thing and you'll have to check weather when is best for stargazing
Quick phone edit
New phone
Is that MaxVelocity I see?
yep, max velocity and im also in ryan hall's server
going to be testing the astrophotography mode when it gets dark out
Sky full of smoke and with the moon. I could only manage a timelapse, and even that went somewhat wrong because the tripod was a bit loose and the framing shifted during it 
Xiaomi 12, 25s iso 400
Contryside of SΓ£o Paulo, Brazil. B3~ with moon
Quattro bumper has processed it for me
And hereβs mine
good thing I was able to get some semi-decent data last year #1020657687291252797 message
Ayy thats me
Congrats
Same phone?
Oh on the screen on discord hahah
Mb brain dumb
Lmao its alr
Nah not the same phone
j
k
ive never shot widefield of the sky, any recommendations??
cygnus
Orion Molecular Cloud Complex is a pretty easy and neat target
I aimed straight up and shot cygnus although my data was noisy so I am going to reshoot tonight
This is what I got, second image is just autostretch
Let's try capturing a comet in SΓ£o Paulo today π
It's very bright, so I think even from here, which is Bortle 9, I should be able to capture some details of its tail.
A photo a friend took with a 60mm Sharpstar and an S23. Too bad it's appearing at 5 a.m. with the sun rising. I'll have to try to capture it around 5 a.m. just before sunrise
Thats still rlly cool
I might be able of getting it this weekend
But it won't be with a phone so no post here, don't wanna wake up my parents by moving the scope
Go to Atacama π£οΈ
π―
clouds 
aimed straight up and shot Ursa Minor?
dayum how north up do you live
The comet was supposed to be here. The Goto is aligned and hit the right position, but since the sky is full of smoke, I won't be able to capture anything from here
Moon 
Do ppl take calibration frames for phone mw?
I always take calibration frames. Currently, I don't take a new photo without Darks.
Itβs already dawn. Iβll try the comet again tomorrow. The telescope is well aligned, so I think I wonβt even move it from the place.
probably dont take flats tho right?
I'd take everything just in case
But they're probably not even necessary
thats airdroid right?
how did you get it so well in sync?
Stellarium is connected to the mount's Wi-Fi, and AirDroid is just showing the screen of the phone that's attached to the telescope's eyepiece. If I move the telescope using the hand control, the position in Stellarium will change, and consequently, the framing on the phone will also change
Stellarium pulls the coordinates of where the telescope is from the mount systen when i do the GoTo align. From then on, it will always be synchronized (unless there's significant backlash in the mount)
holy b7
I didn't know my phone alone can do this
m13 is there
andromeda here
I don't know what options I pressed in pro mode of my redmi note 12 mobile, this is my first astro photograph π
never would have guessed u used a redmi note 12
Did you perform stacking or is this a single sub?
Single sub, I don't know how to do stacking and any staking software even though I have a laptop π₯²
Woah that's amazing why is it red tho
Reprocessing the Carina. I was already thinking the processing I did in March was bad.
i boosted sat on the right one to try and make mw pop more
How about the highlights instead
i did star removal and star recomp then boosted highlights
on this img
yummy Sagittarius
Shot with realme narzo 50 pro
You look like freakin' Michael Phelpsπ
Has anyone tried airdroid?
Lmao yeah, my upper part seems elongated
Lucas uses it
I cant get it to mirror properly
The stream is kinda laggy with almost a 3 second delay
@iron bear someone needs help
ah ok it just looked really bright for a filter so i wasnt sure lmfao
Yea my telescope isint collimated well so i cant focus it the best
did u turn down exposure it seems a little overexposed
ahh that makes sense lol
only reason i didnt think there was a filter is because its over exposed
Yea
thats why i was a little worried lmfao
Sunspots
I didn't use a filter π¬
Ye 100%
damn dude that sucks i hope the suns ok
I hope so
Every telescope does that
It's normal
every scope does
I dont own a filter and i have several solar images
Well i had scopes that didint
Thanks to my damn f/12 powerseeker
Why get more apps when dss gets the job done
And you need to get on pc to process anyways
stacking on phone doesnt seem reliable and seems like it'd be extremely slow, i feel like its just better to stack on a laptop or pc
They were probably for normal viewing like a spotting scope, those are designed so it inverts the image so it looks normal, in astronomy it's not necessary and since it's cheaper they just don't include it
Carina Nebula
- Reprocessing
πData:
π Toya 114/900, Eq3 Mod withOnStep. 18mm 65Β° UFF Eyepiece. No filters
π· Phone, Xiaomi 12 (Imx 766). 136x55s iso 400: 2 hours of total integration
β Munhoz, Brazil. B4~
@lucasgoncalves_js
Full res: https://www.astrobin.com/jcu4y8/
nice!
#1160693147521777715 they've put everything in there that their using
oh ok
That isnβt with my phone tho
ooh
ah thats mb i didnt know that lol
Those ones in #1160693147521777715 was it my dslr
that was the reason I asked
I wanted to know ab this image in particular
cuz I am a dedicated phone ap
man if i didnt have school in the morning i would def shoot it
tmr morning the mag here is -0.01
daaayum
How does the sun get dimmer at sunrise/sunset? It's the same amount of light, like when the sun is obscured by a partial eclipse it'll still damage your eyes to look at it
I feel like that's a risky thing to do, what you're doing
i know if its extremely foggy or hazey you can shoot it through the fog and haze without solar filter because its not as bright, but still extremely risky and i would only do it with phone
BROTHER WHAT
That is insane
Bro flew out in space and took a picture directly infront of the nebula
Some single subs from the night I made this Carina that I sent above
1x20s ISO 400-800
Reflection of the Milky Way in the 18" mirror. I just mirrored the photo
Yes, I use it to control my phone remotely when it's on the telescope
.
Awesome
Cuase I was debating between getting a regular telescope vs the seestar
Do u use a dob?
Mine is a 114/900 equatorial with onstep
The light has to travel through more atmosphere and so less photons actually make it through
You know how people watch sunsets? Thats cause its dimmer
And i would never point my scope at it if i cant look at the sun without squinting my eyes
10000% get an 8" dobsonian. You'll be able to clearly see saturns rings and Jupiter's gas clouds
And Many other things
saturns rings not so much because of the tilt but yeah you'll technically be able to see them really well when they are actually visible from the top again
Yeah that's true. An 8" dob would still be an excellent choice tho
big warning: once you get a scope your gonna be wanting to get more stuff to add onto it, it will set you back thousands of dollars lol
but its worth it
i recommend starting with something cheap and small (not a hobby killer) and if you really like it you should start investing in stuff thats better, because theres some people that enter ap as a hobby and end up buying like a $2000 scope, not enjoying it, then being down $2000 lol
which is quite rare tbh but its a lot of problem solving and its really fun
emphasis on the "not a hobby killer" part
I bought a $250 telescope off amazon and its caused me nothing but trouble from a wobby tripod to poor optics and a plastic focuser
get a solid and well rated dob or eq mounted newtonian from a reputable brand like Orion (fly highποΈ ) and Celestron
But you still need to squint your eyes to look at a sunset or sunrise though? Like it's still too bright to look at it for extended periods of time without getting those green/purple after images in your vision
Assuming it was an orion observer?
Idk man if it works, it works
With Redmi 10 
Nah it was some Chinese resale brand 114/500
From what im seeing even worse quality from the orion observer since it had an alt/az mount
and they replaced what very few metal parts there were with more cheap plastic
What's your latitude? +70? π
this is the most I get
wait is it possible to combine these into one image?
the images won't send
Maybe Astropixelprocessor can align then
Deneb
My first time trying an EQ platform!
Specs:
- Bresser f/6 8" Dob
- 30mm eyepiece
Stacked 42x6-second exposures
Stacked in 
Has anyone done astrophotography with the s24 ultra? Anyone able to share some pictures?
I'm sure it's very capable, pretty sure it has a better camera than my phone
Is this that comet thing? Sorry don't remember the name.... Is it still visible?
Benefits of lat 25-26
If my s20Fe can produce nice results Iβm sure that ultra is a lot better
You just need to find the right settings
yea but what's your summer tempsπ¨
Haha I was waiting for that
i suffer past 20c
The hottest temp I've ever gotten is prob 35c
It was 25-28c at night when I took those pics from the dessert (itβs considered good weather for summer)
Oh youβd love it here then
The desert goes through a complete personality change in winter tho
Itβs 5c at night and under 20c at day
Thatβs cold af for us lol
Humidity is super low so it hits harder
But the seeing is amazing during winter there
I suddenly want to go to your desert
I have never gotten excellent seeing once and my normal seeing is below average-poor
Are you from the states?
ik i didnt dither and bla bla bla but damn this is nice for phone and 2 months of experience on milky way pics
very nice
thx
what phone?
iphone 14pro
and where u stacked?
astroshader
15x30sec exposurres
oh nice
in bortle 2
very nice image overall, got some sweet nebula in there but kinda noisy
shot in summer when i went to crete
nice place
first time ever geetting so far away from the athens glow
this hits close to home
I remember going to like a B4/3 place and I wasn't able to photograph anything
it was around 37-38C at night like wtf
Just took my first Jupiter pics
(Not the best but im proud)
Toom this in bortle 4
Took it with my skywatcher 76/900 Eq2
Dude awesome work
This is actually pretty decent for your first try
I managed to stack my first astro photograph using the deep sky stacker software, how do I share it with someone for post processing?
you usually just send the master file that it created
you could share it here, i'll see if I can process it for you
Yes but it is in fits or tiff type file and I can't see it in my file manager unless I open it using dee sky stacker
It is in the light folder but I am live under the rock I don't know much about my laptop
just send the tiff file here
Here
Did you got that?
30 pictures of 10 seconds exposure or 5 minutes and its my first time of phone astro photograph
I have binoculars but I don't have a phone adapter and stand
try to find a more open area and get that focus dialed in next time
it's more in focus with the buildings than the sky
Yes I will do that next time but I had set manual focus to maximum
yea you usually wanna set it below that max
try to use digital zoom while you're manually focusing to get the focus as good as you can then you zoom back out
I didn't understand much
but I will try to get it in focus from next time
@wild flame 
jjust enough resolution to camture the baby solar system
That small star near two big stars?
:-))
just between the two large bright stars is a small (albeit blurred) dot. This dot is a proplyd, or if you want the whole name, an ionised proto-planetary disk. This isnβt necessary a solar system, rather itβs a star surrounded by a large disk of gas and dust.
Though, over time itβs theorised that the gas and debris is able to collect into regions through gravitational pulls from more dense areas and form bodies such as planets.
Thereβs actually a couple in Orion, which can be resolved with a decent telescope and proper imaging, but because of how small they are you often need very good seeing and PA to actually resolve them in nicer detail
No idea if this helps but this was a 10 second 800 iso shot lying on my car roof in a bortle 3 area
Let me know when you finish processing.
That's really cool, but still little bit blurry
How to fix it
?
Well, it underwent a lot of change. The actual pic was straight up mid
u toaSTED it a bit
Ig yeah
to be honest, there isnt much I can process out of this
other than a bit of a change in contrast, it would look the same
theres simply too little data to form anything out of this, especially with the blurry focus and lack of interesting tarrgets in that portion of the sky
If you really want a target that doesnt require too much data to look interesting, shoot the constellation of Orion or if you have a 3x or greater camera on your phone, go for the Andromeda galaxy
it also doesnt help that you were shooting between a few lit up buildings
Why did you just randomly post a pic of the moon here?
Reallyike the depth in the black spots, and also the craters are pretty good for a phone
Still really cool regardless : ) I actually took photos of them with my dslr and newt the other day, could resolve 2 nicely
I am fine with that because it's my first time
so yea, just brighten the image you have and that'll be all you can do
I don't have any software that's the problem.
I mean you kinda need to get at least basic editing and stacking software to get any good images
GIMP and Siril are both good free editing software you can get started with
@wild flame beacuse of you, organic chemistry is troubling me : (
should i rename to aromatic hydrocarbon?
I have deeps sky stacker software and siril software downloaded in my laptop. Can I edit stacked images in Siril software like you said?
yes
Do I need to stack images in Siril software first or I will be able edit already stacked images?
stack in siril first and process it there
this is my first ever processed astro photograph. π
I don't know how to send it in photo format

How does someone make that shiny thing around the moon
Convert a copy of it to a PNG and resend it
^
I just put it into gimp and export as png
I don't have gimp, I have deep sky stacker and Siril only
You should get gimp
very useful
How? Do I just put gimp free download? Because I am broke and I am student so I don't have money
You think Siril, gimp and deep sky stacker are the trio for astrophotography?
Personally I use siril, graxpert, deepskydetail, gimp, and starnet
All free btw
For stacking I think deep sky stacker is simple and fast, and siril is best for post processing
I use siril for my stacking
It does what I need fine and I've heard bad things about dss
My monkey brain can't use Siril properly for stacking 
all praise siril
it's just a 1 button script
And I WAS TRYING TO DO STACKING MANUALLY WITHOUT LOOKING AT TUTORIALS!!!
Oh and astrosurface for planetary stacking and processing and registax for planet sharpening

these for dsos tho
starnet not always needed but the rest I use on every image
Starnet is just to stop your stars from overpowering your image, if your stars are fine no need to use it
at least read the siril documentation
ideally, starnet is something you should be using all the time since its far better to work on a starless image and then later recombine your stars
you get a ton more control
On all My phone widefields I absolutely need starnet but on my dso images they seem fine without it
theres no criteria for what needs starnet and what doesnt.

