#Phone Astrophotography
1 messages Ā· Page 14 of 1
newest one, apparently the camera gets better
still maintains 50 MP but takes better images
just be aware that google pixel phones have Laser Detect Auto Focus so you'll have to put electrical tape of the laser on the camera
it can be very annoying
you use deep sky camera right?
I do
yep
is there no manual focus
theres a focus bar and if you put it to the highest you can then adjust focus on your scope and it'll help perfectly focus
is that the slider on the left
slider on the right
left is exposure slider although i havent noticed it do much
i think its just there to show you what different exposures will look like
I think it's just for preview
yeah
I'll try focusing in deep sky next time instead of my phone camera
you are so full of useful information
i honestly just learn as i go and problem solve for the most part lol, ive been told im really smart but i honestly dont know how i am lmfao, i just kinda go with the flow, experiment, and get good results from trial and error
Ive been told that before too but it's literally just because I'll hyperfocus on a subject š
ADHD moment
I'm very very new to astrophotography. I took my 3rd set of images last night
im super new aswell i started in december
idk if i have ADHD but i honestly feel that, i get into something i like then i just go ham on researching and looking into it and learning every ounce of information i can
neurodivergence in general tends to have some form of hyperfocus. I'm getting diagnosed for ADHD in like 2 days lol
what setup do you have ?
Just a celestron nexstar 6se and a google pixel 6 pro with a 3d printed phone holder for a microscope
look with filter
that's what big media wants you to do /joking
Thatās great what phone
im so annoyed i have been outside for like an hour and a half and am yet to find a galaxy lol
yeah happens with me a lot too
found bodes, had to do visual to see it then put on my phone
and surveillance mode activated š
theres a car thats driven by like 3 times so i gotta keep an eye out lol
i also had to grab a power bank and plug in my phone while its shooting because it was at 10%
oh
idk if the power bank is fulled charged so im praying
your phone would be boiling
it was charging my phone at the start just gotta last another 16 mins
nah its a nice temp outside and theres storng winds
oh cool
its a power bank made for charging phones too
yeah its not hard to point at it, its normally off by a little though
and i also have to find it through a phone camera and center it in the frame, its impossible to see through the phone camera without taking over 4 sec exposures
yesss
but i can see it decently visually so i had to settle on doing that, then mounting my phone again
b9?
b6
lucky
im on the edge of a city too
so 4 sec in b6 means 16 sec in b8 ?
idk maybe lol
the gradient ouch
yeah it doesnt help that the inner city is to the north and bodes is also to the north
similar here airport is at east
theres an air force base and a factory to the east, inner city to the north, a house in the way of the western sky. basically south is the only real good direction
my neighbors pulled up and shined their brights right in the direction of my telescope, i can already tell you im gonna have a few bad frames
oh no
also dont wanna say anything but they opened their trunk and it really looked like they were carrying a body or something lol
oh f they probably got scared thinking you were capturing them the whole time lol
yeah my neighbors are kinda sketchy, there will be random cars that pull up to their house every night from like 12 am - 4am
and they stay for like 1-5 mins then leave
reasons why i have a camera to watch my telescope lol
hah lol
and fake bb guns
what
i have bb guns for safety incase someone started walking towards my house while my scopes out there
in the neighbor's eyes you would be sketchy lol
i dont put them on display unless their tryna come up onto my porch lol
1 more minute till my shots are done
i might go for another 250
bad news
phone died
good news
it still took 169/250 images
damn a racoon just ran by outside
Redmi note 7
My mount sure is bipolar
hi friends
i have a question
i shoot untracked and ive realised that a number of my lights are partially out of frame. would i use mosaic to stack?
or is my data cooked
i did a run through on standard and the edges are really blurry like its just filling in the blanks
i wasnt tracking very well

assuming your latitude is close to mine, you are in the perfect position for summer targets (except the whole B6 thing but whatever) as a good chunk of them are towards the south in Scorpius, Ophiuchus, Sagittarius and other neighbouring constellations
since thats where the milky way core is
5x200s bortle 4
I always like Milky way photos and trying to look for all the DSO's (ie. star clusters and nebulae) and stuff in the pic
I can only spot the Scorpio constellation
me too
itās a shame how bad the walking noise is though
I can see scorpius, the sagittarius teapot, Ophiuchus, Scutum, and Aquila up in the top left
This is tracked right?
Whatās your WB? Btw do you have pixel binning on and that alignment function
WB is 4015K no pixel binning, light alignment function
Thanks
I recently shot mw again but it was no where near as visible as my first attempt
Ig the seeing wasnāt good
happy to help
so far I can tell M4, C76, M6, M7, M8, M20, M23, and M24
yes I could also find those ones
there is also m16 (eagle nebula) and m17 (swan nebula)
and M25, M22, and M28
pretty cool
oh wow the globular clusters are way brighter than I thought
prob the most underrated type of DSO imo. I only rly see M3, M13 and C80 pics
i wanna shoot clusters but my astro cams fov is so small it looks mid
can I see one?
I havenāt got any yet
š
I plan on getting a cluster in the Scorpio constellation
I was focusing on Orion before it went away š„²
If ur doing open clusters I highly recommend M6 and M7.
For globular clusters I recommend M3, M13, M92, M10 and C80
Are those all visible from the Northern Hemisphere?
all Messier objects are visible from the northern hemisphere (at least from the latitude of Paris)
Objects to the east of me are very hard to shoot
Cuz the city is behind me and the light dome is massive there
then that unfortunatley excludes M3, M13 and M92
Rip
but you can do M22, M28 and M19 instead; they're towards the south
also M11
nearly forgot
Iāll check on the app and see which of the ones you mentioned are doable for me
aight
actually nvm M3 can still be seen but only in the morning when its on the west
there's also this map for Messier objects so you can find whatever suits you
heres one for Caldwell objects
lesgo! all the ones you mentioned are visible for me
i hope my star hopping isnt as bad as its been recently
C80 looks insane
Ah nvm canāt shoot c80 it stays near horizon the whole time
the Moon a few days ago
It was super clear and they came outa nowhere
Was meant to do 300 exposures but I was able to only shoot for a minute

āļø
The moon and the Orion Nebula taken form a Bortle 3, taken last year.
Scope: Bresser Messier 8" f/6 Dob
Eyepiece: 30mm (not sure about this, forgot to post these when I captured them)
Camera: Redmi K20 Pro w/ DeepSkyCamera
Processing:
Orion Nebula: Siril
Moon: PIPP, AS!3, Registax
Moon looks great
Would using these settings be better than doing 5s @smoky scaffold
Whoops I cropped out the exposure time, it said 1.3 seconds iirc
Did you post processed it or its original pic?
how do you figure out the pixels trailing
I just left that as the default value for DSS
Iām not sure what the value would be for astroshader
cool, also if you're willing to find clusters outside of morning/late night time. You should also try getting Parasepe/Beehive cluster (M44). Though I'll admit finding it can be pretty hard cause its located in a dim constllation (Cancer), its still a really bright and popular cluster. Prob just below the Pleiades (M45) and the Double Cluster (C14) in terms of popularity (from what I've seen anyway)
plus its stays west nowadays so no city lights to bother you either
M44 is gonna be near the moon so idk if itās a good target to shoot
true, but you can still do it in May; its only by June when it will get harder to shoot
Welp today and tmr are cloudy so Iām gonna have to kill time another way
I did manage to spot one of the clusters near scorpions tail with binoculars
Prob M7
processed
SW 130PDS, SW eq3-2 OnStep, 6mm 66° eyepiece
Yea that was the one, Iām still not familiar with all the object numbers lol
No clue if this looks good on anything but phone lol
Single frame I have like 15k frames of it to stack later
Bortle?
And what phone?
Did you use deep sky camera?
B7, Redmi note 7. I use GCam
Taken on realme 8i, that blur is a date water mark, it looked ugly and I also can't remove it nowš„²
Here unblured
Damn looks fine, good processingš
š«”
Nice
Make sure to show stacked
Yessir will do
I will send full processed version soon
Do you have any tips in how to fix blur on the middle of the moon?
I can't seem to get it right
Do you have perfect focus? Most times that's what causes blur
I have, and I have taken many photos on different focus to compare but it just doesn't seem to fix
Most times not having perfect focus causes blur, wanted to reiterate to avoid confusion
No prob
Could have something to do with your eyepiece, phone camera, or lens
Hmm might have to check it
Try cleaning them, maybe there's a bit of condensation on the middle of your lens or something
Thanks for the tip, will tell if it fixed the issue
Wait
Maybe processing has a problem with it
Do you have any images unprocessed?
I rotated the image in processing
Looks like it could be caused by exposure, your moon is very bright and that's causing it to be fuzzy
Try lowering exposure in camera app before taking pics or videos
Lemme try
Moon filters also help if you have any
Oh damn that's sick
I gotta upgrade, I've been on the pixel 6 since it came out
Is this just done with the AP mode?
Yeah, was like a 5 min exposure I think
AP mode is 4 min long exposures that are live stacked (although they might've changed it on the pixel 7 to be 5 mins) I can never get good AP mode images because I don't have a tripod for my phone so I have to prop it up against a piece of wood or something
Wasn't aware AP mode could take in enough light to see galaxies
What bortle did you shoot in?
It was bortle 3
Also 2000m up
Yeah let me pull up a different pic that has Andromeda and triangulum
Ohh okay yeah that makes more sense
I live in Kansas, more access to sky but lower elevation as a downside
I'm only at 366m rn and I'm in the second story of a building
Yeah but as soon as you zoom on these pics they just emediatly down grade like crazy
Yeah that's because they only shoot at a certain resolution
Major downside of phone ap
Ooh yeah that's nice
I live next to an airport and an air force base so I'd prob have like 6 planes fly through
That is sick
Haven't really been able to get any somewhat decent close ups but I got this last night
I desperately need a barlow lens
I feel like this should be illegal
Amazing looking moon
should look better stacked and processed :)
Canāt wait 
M13.
SW130PDS, EQ3-2 terrans OnStep, 6mm 66° eyepiece, Redmi Note 7. 139x10s, 70 darks.
Looks like a bunch of dropped XP points in mc
Nah 'cause you can die with hundreds of levels but you'll only get like ten levels back lol
True
Eta Carinae Nebula: pointed my scope a bit off centre for this one (untracked) D: will try again next clear skies
Bortle: 8-9
Phone: Oppo Reno Z
Scope: 8" Dobsonian
Exposure: 20~ minutes
is that a cluster?
eta carinae nebula :)
ahhh gotcha
sorry i shouldve added that
your good lol
i wasnt sure because it looks like a cluster but also nebulosity lol
yeeah
i spent 3 nights capturing it and didnt realise until it was processed that i had my scope pointed just left of my target

through the eyepiece you can only see stars
i was gonna get more int time on bodes nebula but it was cloudy tonight and now its raining and thundering with a chance of tornadoes
is this a live view or stacked?
b6
or is bodes hard to capture
bodes is pretty bright tbh
well i wish you luck
it just took me forever to find
and great patience if youre untracked
yuo cant see it through a phone camera at all, you have to find it visually
oh god that must suck
yeah i spent like 2 hours searching for it
i do tracked btw so
the first hour and a half was me redoing my alignment because i just assumed it was off and thats why i couldnt find it
but it was right the whole time i just needed to look through the eyepiece with my eye
thankfully lol, i cant imagine manually tracking something you cant see
i was trying to shoot 250 frames but my phone died at 179 so rip
and i was shooting late at night so i had to keep an eye on my scope because theres some sketchy people in my neighborhood lol
Which scope is dat?
some kind of celestron sct
ik, but which one?
I dunno
Put a Celestron powerseeker as a bait scope
Looks like rasa
6SE
Rasa's have the cameras on the front not the back and they are pretty large
Plus 2 rails on top and bottom
Then might be an edge hd
He said its a 6SE
real
itās not by any bright stars whatsoever
Yeah the one downside of it lol
I like whirlpool because I at least have a constellation to go off of
yes same
Oh yeah sorry
The Leo Triplet is also easy to find if you know your star hopping
That big boy has no place on that deck
Put him on some grass
I feel like grass would be less stable/flat than a wood deck
Alright
Now
If you walk on a wooden deck what does it do? It shakes
If you walk on grass? It absorbs most of the shaking
Grass is the best place to put a scope
Ok then just don't walk on the deck while the scope is imaging
I'd argue a solid block of flat concrete fixed to the ground would be better than grass
Nope
Especially with a wind hood or some means of blocking wind
The heat will rise off the concrete and ruin your images
Donāt forget concrete keeps heat well
idk
grass is the best choice
unless you are set up in like your front yard
in front of a street
iād personally not risk it
my deck is an elevated surface, none of the sky would be visible if i put it down on the grass
also increased risk of setting my scope down right ontop of dog dookie
oh and i have motion lights in my backyard so its a huge image ruiner
Tracked?
no
i dont know why it isnt trailed
just dont look at the corners
Crazy
good or bad crazy š
thank yoou
im trying again this week
pointing the telescope at the right spot this time
My two most recent achievements. I want to get a planetary nebula and also to try shooting a galaxy with great success
the best thing the northern hemisphere doesnt have
I believe in southern hemisphere supremacy šš¹
Fr we have most of the cool stuff
Big and Little DipperšØ
*Ursa Major and minor
came with the telescope, and came with the telescope lol
25mm for both images
ok those are the first two things I would upgrade
real
50s iso 400. Xiaomi 12
50s iso 400. Galaxy s23
Another interesting comparison for those who want to buy a cell phone with astrophotography in mind, the Xiaomi 12 in my tests captures 20% more light than the s23 in the same exposure time and generates much fewer hotpixels
same place X-Y in the image. Both in the equatorial mount, so ignore the foreground details. Because with active tracking, it ends up blurring. I only did to test on the stars (that was on the ones that appeared as it was very cloudy)..
In general, read noise is very similar. Only the sensor heating and light capture changes
Single shot gang
very dim core
to get better images esp for galaxies your gonna have to stack
South Hemisphere also got a better angle to the milky way, the brightest globular clusters in the sky, and the MC's
At least the northern hemisphere can see andromeda for longer, down here its only visible for less than three months
yeah but andromeda is mid
Eh, imo that's neutralised by the LMC and SMC
I find LMC and SMC itself kinda boring, never really liked irregular galaxies
Its atleast visible to the naked eye
You did not just say that
Tbh i agree with him, people are glazing andromeda way to much
Yo
its cool but doesn't live up to the hype
Iām checking some satellite galaxies in the northern hemisphere. Iād love to see them
Anything other than the Milkyway is just mid
you mean in the milky way?
how can you not love sombrero? It has the best name
i was just giving MW some love
The surfboard galaxy !!!!
nah the antennae galaxies (C60 and C61) go hard
they sound cool, dont think i've ever seen em before
look it up they're honestly one of my favorite DSO's
Has anyone ever done a tier list of where each phone company ranks for AP?
Hey is this good raw image? I tried to reduce exposure, gonna start stacking (first time stacking)
Or should I take another session?
I'm new to stacking so asking for help
itās such a cool heart shape
exposure wise, yeah it looks good, its quite fuzzy though, was it cloudy out? windy? did you have perfect focus?
Oh yeah it's totally a mineral moon
I believe it's Xiaomi, yeah they have absurdly good cameras
I think a variant of the Xiaomi 12 actually has lens attachments for the camera
which is insane for a phone
The Orion Nebula and Running Man Nebula!!!
Milky way
I have telescope with 900mm and i want to photograph orion nebula 1s seems oke actually, but its a little trailing
Is it ok?
what eyepeice are you using?
also can you send the image?
20mm
I think they mean the image you end up taking
This Milky Way image is really awesome btw!
Thank you
prolly a best of half a second, but you get some fainter detail with this
I... tried it
Turn out like this
Cant see any ._.
Maxed out my iso but yeah still
The core wouldnt pop out
Well yeah im considering to make an onstep goto for my mount
Its celestron 80eq
Anyway i live in bortle 5
Any target suggestions for early june? Im on phone and 700mm focal length. And another scope of 150mm.
Im looking for brighter than mag +6 and my bortle is 5 northern hemisphere latitude 22N
Please ping me if you can help, thanks!
@shy snow m13 or one of the other bright globular clusters?
So no solution with this one?
sure its in the frame?
Yeahh
I saw most of the globs are far south, and theres some blockage in my south
Andromeda, saturn, Mars, venus, maybe jupiter, m81 and m82, Hercules cluster, markarains chain, coma cluster, and any nebulas that are available.
Coma cluster?
What's that?
Look it up on stellarium. It is amazing
Might consider it, thanks!
Sure thing
M10, M12, M13, M15, M3, M71, C25, C42, and C47 are still avalable
nvm u said brighter than mag. 6
For open clusters, there are tons of options but most are towards the south. However, despite that there is still M39, C13, Brocchi's cluster (Cr 399), Twedledee and Twedledum, Summer Beehive (Cr 349) etc.
For Globular clusters, see message above
For Nebulae, your only option rly is the Lagoon Nebula (M8), maybe also North American Nebula (C20) or Trifid nebula (M20)
For galaxies, your only options are Bode's (M81), Andromeda (M31) and Triangulum (M33)
For planets, you can view Saturn and Mars pretty easily in the morning
@kindred zephyr it was quit polluted that day since I live near main highway you can guess.
Mineral moon?
I dont really wanna go for planets cause i can do them from my light polluted home
Thanks for the suggestions tho
Any star tracker user here?
Maybe it wasn't meant to be one but you can see some mineralness
No mineral?
doing processing for the first time, Here's mercury
I could jump from a plane and land on your image and be unscathed itās so soft
Widefield milky way
- Xiaomi 12. 30x18s ISO 800
- bortle 4, Contryside of SĆ£o Paulo, Brazil.
Btw are these the settings for astroshader or just regular phone camera app
Oh I see
That mineral
No It wasn't meant to be mineral moon
I think it's rather a image distortion
tried processing Saturn
saturns visible rn?
nah, I used an old vid from November last year
No that's kinda supposed to happen when you stack the moon, I think it looks really cool
I assume you mean the nebulae, or Rho Ophiuchi, or both. The phone that took this is the Xiaomi 12, which has an absolutely insane camera for a phone, by far one of the best models for phone night photography, and astrophotography too. It also helps that Lucas lives in a low bortle area, so less light pollution to hinder the ability to resolve fainter areas.
With a good enough phone and long enough of an integration time, yes! The nebula itself is bright as far as nebulae go, and it's pretty easy to spot as well as there's a globular cluster in the same area that's easy to pick out. I've never photographed it myself, but I hope to someday.
Alright thanks
For the information
You're gonna wanna go with bright nebulae. Like the Orion nebula or star clusters like the beehive cluster.
But yes, you can.
I'd recommend using a star tracker or a tripod for your phone. Since you need to take long exposure pictures
But that isn't stacked lol
I tried stacking and many errors happened
So I gotta take another session
And get more shots of moon
This time I would rather take a video
Than images
Bruh
Weird then, it could be really cool if you did stack tho
It would be crazy lookin
G
Looking
I tried but it was all fuzzy
I would try again
With another fresh shots
This was first time so I didn't knew some conditions were there
For stacking in auto stackert
In stacker
I only make a reasonable amount of frames... The color comes naturally as there is a signal after stacking
I actually live in SĆ£o Paulo, bortle 9. But I go to the countryside a lot. I have a house in the countryside, so at least once a month I can go and do astrophotography
From b9, I usually just do dso. Widefield is impossible
Nss lindo dms, q horas eram qnd vc tirou?
Ultima vez q eu fui no interior a mw só aparecia de dia
Ohhhh ok, that's nice though that you can go somewhere atleast once a month where the bortle is low
Yep
Here in SĆ£o Paulo town, night sky looks like daylight
š
any body know wht the pink thing is? it only appears when i start shooting
does your phone use like a proximity sensor?
or a low light sensor
some phone cameras will have it it's like a little red dot next to it when it's in use
if it does the easy solution is putting some electrical tape over it
and if it's a low light sensor their may be a setting to turn it off?
otherwise I'm not sure
I am assuming the black dot is probably one of those
probably the bottom left :)
in a dark room (without flash) take a few photos and see if it lights up
sometimes it's not visible to the human eye so even just putting tape over it and testing it
it says itās a LiDAR scanner
yeah I'd say thats the cause
is this the first time shooting with this phone ?
or is this the first time its happened ?
nope not at all
this is the first time itās started happening
oh that's random
maybe a setting has been turned on ? or it's gone into autofocus/dark image mode
either way if you can't find a setting to turn it off then electric tape should do the trick
if it's what's causing the pink streak in your photos
iād assume so
it starts as a pink dot but it turns into the streak from the stacking
Flare
but I canāt see it in the live view at all
itās also there no matter where i aim the telescope
You can take a picture of your phone in the dark and see where the light is coming from
I only get glare like that from street lights.
i am in my backyard away from street lights
im pretty convinced its not from any external light
51s vs 30s exposure
Fairly certain this the iPhone LiDAR IR lights, as The Rat says.
Itās very sensitive to the exact phone vs eyepiece positioning, different eyepieces etc, and whether the lidar sensor is actually active.
I see it very occasionally too
it is i The Rat
could also be you havent seen it before because you had the camera centred differently last time
my centring is different for every eyepiece
you can also test this by taking pictures with the phone pressed against a mirror or other reflective object
in a dark room preferably
yep that revealed it
if I cover it with electrical tape will that effect taking normal photos?
non astro photos
so with my phone i had to put electrical tape over the LDAF (Laser Detect Auto Focus) which shoots a small laser at an object and gets the best focus for that object, really all its affected for me is causing normal images to be blurry, but normally if you just hold your phone at whatever your taking a picture of for about a second it'll focus in on it without the laser
and theres always manually focusing, so
id check if your phone has a setting to turn off the laser first so you dont have to risk sticky adhesive getting on your camera when applying the tape
unfortunately there isnāt a way to turn off the sensor for iphones
yeah so tape is a good choice then, i know you can also buy a phone case that has a cover for it but their probably hard to find
ive also heard of people 3d printing a cover for it aswell if you wanted to go down that route
i'll stick with tape, easiest option
Are they binary or just over laping
Cause if binary thats alot of distance between them
Mizar and Alcor in Ursa major
it actually is a binary then
Hmm so they have very large orbits
a quick google search says it takes 750,000 years
For what
A orbit around each other
?
yes
just reprocessed my orion data from 2 months ago
Its actually a quadruple star system
crazy
here is the jpg
right
Mizar is a quadruple system I believe, while Alcor is singular, I could be wrong though
I actually just recently took a photo of them
not good by any means but it's ok I guess
Nice diffraction spikes
Dayum thats good
Thanks
Omega Centauri
Single 55s iso 400 sub. Xiaomi 12 + 114mm F8 Newtonian
Phone lens reflection š
I will remove it in processing
There was a lot of light around. It ended up lighting up the eyepiece
Before I covered the light bulbs it looked like this
Thats my reminder to make a shielding for my eyepiece
What causes this exactly?
See those houses in the background? They put very bright lights. The light is entering the gap between the adapter and the eyepiece illuminating the eyepiece Lens... I will no longer set up my setup in front of the house when I am in the country. It's much darker at the back of the house, but my view of the south at the back is very limited.
The sky in this place was bortle 2 in 2020 when I started. Today is already 4
It's a condominium, so new houses are being built very quickly. And they all fill the yard with light
I already solved the problem. I used a "flocking" material, the same material I used to make my telescope darker inside.
The sombrero I had sent above
The view from the eyepiece definitely makes it even cooler
+0.5 bortle scale per year : (
New interface
Pretty easy to understand, will adapt fast : )
Can you send a pic?
Ooooo
Yesss they added long exposure support for my phone (moto g13) š
Ooo
Nice
phone?
Ye
nice
good job on rings
Thanks, well yeah not reallt that detail tho
Kind of a bad time to do Saturn
The rings are nice and flat
Hmm yeahh
Maybe next 2 years?
Cuz next year its a straight line, so we cant see it?
Yup
Kinda looks fun to photograph
Nice little event
Haha
Iāve got a new baby coming next week for planetary
So Iāll try and do some Saturn shots
Btw what fl where u at?
Focal length
900 mm
No 20 mm eyepiece
Ah that explains it Iād recommend getting a higher power eyepiece
Even a cheap 9mm would be fine
I can see saturn clearly with barlow lens, but its really hard to locate the planet
I see
I have 4mm
Eyepiece, but i rarely use it, im very lazy to locate it manually lmao
This is what I got with a 9mm
Wow
Itās a pretty crap shot compared to my newer ones
The ring tho
But thatās my latest Saturn
Havenāt been bother to shoot it since
I canāt post pretty much any others cus there with my camera
This is Jupiter
Not bad
Not great
Damnnn
Yeah, my eyepiece only shows white thhing when i see jupiter
I can see the 3 dots but yeah
Maybe i saw it on the day time
I got this with 10mm and 2x Barlow
It may be harder to keep stuff in frame but it's definitely worth it
900mm FL, cropped a bit
Yeah I had pretty crappy seeing
New live view is insanely bright (b9)
is live view still laggy in the update
Live view will always be laggy
Low fps in exchange for more brightness
yeah i know but ive noticed deepskycamera is laggier than other deep sky apps
ill notice it takes like 3 sec for the image to update most of the time
might just be using 3 second exposures for lower noise
Pink Moon April 2024
im still confused why they call it a pink moon
i heard pink moon and got excited to photograph a moon that was colored pink, i was solemnely disappointed
looks amazing though
The pink flowers of late spring bloom during this time
The Full Moons aren't named because of how they appear, but because of their effect in the enviorment. Its called the Pink Moon cause that's usually when pink flowers begin to bloom in North America
Its the same with a Blue Moon; its not actually blue, but it was considered so rare it was compared to the Moon turning blue as a metaphor to state the absurdity of something
Maybe its called blue cause blue is a rare colour among vegetation in nature
Except for blood moon during a lunar eclipse lol
true
also If you rly wanna photograph a pink/red moon, you can do that just after the Moon rises or just before it sets
Just dont correct the colour in post
quality isn't great, but you get my point
My first time processing an image 
130mm newtonian untracked
10x3s
||Forgot dark frame š||
(taken using iphone12pm)
darkframes arent useful with phones xd
really?
ye
bias frames
lowest exp time and same iso as lights
also dont let light reach the sensor ofc xd
darks only for thermal noise mostly but that doesnt work with phone cams:D
temp changes too much
Even with my scope?
scope doesnt matter
just the cam:D
scopes and lenses are just for focussing light on the camera, nothing more
I'm sure I've read somewhere about temp in scope š
for newtonians, ye
cuz the inside of the tube needs to cool down to ambient temps so less wobble
but nothing to do with callibration frames:D
when you word it like that it makes me feel almost ashamed for spending $1000 on a scope lmfao
actually i do wonder what production cost to build a telescope adds up to
I suppose newt's are really cheap to make
Refractors need special precisely shaped glass
No wonder they're expensive
Darks is useful on phone, they subtract hot pixels
Can someone explain the PROPER way to take darks, flats, and bias frames for phone? And whats a good exposure time?
Ok
Darks are same exposure time as lights. Bias are the shortest possible exposure and the same ISO. You also have to make sure no light reaches the camera
For flats, just fotograph a white surface, we usually put a white cloth on top of the camera and point it at the bright sky or a whiite screen
Is flats for phone different
Like a different method and stuff
I made the shielding
Nice
No, they work the same
Thanks
Bruh that reminds me of when I saw the golden gate bridge for the first time and I literally cried because it wasn't made out of goldš
(I was four)
What is better?
Low iso long exposure
Or high iso moderate exposure
Cause I found that high iso has too much noise and causes problems in stacking
(Talking about DSO)
Moderate ISO and higher exposure, but untill a limit
for me the limit is 4 seconds untill the startrails become visible
If youre tracked, moderate iso and long exposure
Untracked, high iso low exposure
yeah 2 seconds at like 1000+ iso is the best i found (before i stopped doing phone astro cause it sucks)
Facts
Got this image with my iPhone 12 and my grandpops old 60mm telescope. Not great, but also the best image of the moon I've taken thus far, so I guess it's alright
Nice
My iso maxes out at 814
Um doing umtracked and i found that high iso dont stack well for me
M64 Black Eye Galaxy
1000x1s 10k iso
used my last clear night for the week on this, Iām pretty happy with the data
How the hell did you manage to find it i sadly cant
It covers up the gap between the phone camera and eyepiece
So i prevents glares on the phone lens and eyepiece
Im gonna use it today shooting arcturus hopefully
hold on @smoky scaffold , what telescope do you have?
orion starblast ii 4.5 eq
the bright star on the left
Aight
I'd say to put your scope on stellarium (telescopius if you don't have plus) and use the stars near the object to properly center it
I could also see it in the live view if I looked hard enough (good seeing + at zenith)
im in b6
it is in a hard spot to star hop to though
Ik so i will have to find it on luck just like i found sombrero
I can show you my path for star hopping if you want tho
thatās how I found the general area
I also found it while I was on my way to M53. I couldn't see anything but I could tell it was there since surrounding stars matched up. Its been a while but here's roughly the star-hopping journey I did
hereās the path I used to find it, pretty much identical to abaās
but I think this one will only work if you live in a low bortle where you can see alpha comae berenices
if not (which I couldnāt) just use arcturus
https://youtu.be/6-_58mSGz1Q?si=uPxxo1nI7og6s3Fk
thereās also this website called astrohopper which makes finding things MUCH faster
Mount your smartphone on your telescope and launch #AstroHopper. Congratulations, you have one of the most revolutionary aiming devices ever devised for amateur astronomy. AstroHopper is a phone webpage "app" that turns any #smartphone into a precision telescope #finderscope device. It's given away at no charge by the developer... and it works r...
I personally donāt use it unless itās a last resort because my camera is on my phone, and I donāt have something to attach my phone to the telescope
also astrohopper obviously wonāt work if you have a small scope
astrohopper works on a small(ish) scope
Deepskycamera to get the data and pixinsight to stack and process
Why? The only problem it may throw it out of balance, other that that it works on by 60/400 refractor, 102/660 refactor and my SCT C8
yes you're right, i should've probably said it would be harder, not that it wouldn't work
appreciate it, are you using the app for all of your shots?
Can you find carina nebula?
no
34min from b7-8
what phone?
SW130PDS, eq3-2 OnStep, Redmi note 7, SW let 28mm. 99x21s(34min), ISO 600.
Pretty nice
A single good sub (cropped)
I used my DIY diffraction spike generator
My scopes f/12
So i dont expect much
He likes the look ig
I also kinda wish my newt had visible spikes, they make stars more star looking
yeah makes sense
But I know they can become a problem
I've only been able of seeing them on Sirius
They're probably visible on canopus too
Yes, if I have the strength and the weather, I will continue the photo session, another 1 hour of time will change a lot
But my eyepiece is a little bit trashy, you can see these star trails on the photo
M51 Whirlpool galaxy
400x2s 11k iso
iPhone 15 Pro
low bortle 4
shout out to discord compression as always!
C/2021 S3 panstarrs
42 minutes of stacking, 19x 132 frames siril and photoshop
old image, i remember using 3x barlows, single handheld image, iphone 8 plus 130/650mm
This night I saw an incredible meteor, I have never seen anything like it in my life. This photo was shared in our Belarusian chat, but I saw meteor with my own eyes!!
Crazy
The sky and grass became very bright, I didnāt understand at first what happened, it was very beautiful
Most likely, a meteorite could fall from this meteor
M27 with IPhone XS, 20x30s(10min)
How long did it last
What app did you use if i may ask?
About 5 seconds
Astroshader
Is it free?
Yeah
Alright thanks
Nice!
I reckon with a bit of background extraction and adjusting black point you might get it to really pop
woow, iso and white balance? also how do i know the focus is right? i have a hard time getting it with astroshader
bahtinov mask
WB was 3800, iso 3500
Max details from 34min
Without PC for processing, only phone
With tracker?
Thats bright
How did you stack them?
Only DSS
I would like something like AstroShader on Android
Theres a similar one called deep sky camera
You can choose number of frames, iso, exposure and focus settings, flats, darks and those
Theres an upcoming pro version also that will include live stacking and other features
This one
Yes, but without auto stack
Ill try astroshader
When theres a clear night ofc
Cause its raining like everyday here lol
The way I normally do it (without a Bahtinov mask)
Set focus in the middle.
Set the exposure to 0.1s ISO to 4000.
Aim at some bright stars and pinch to zoom in.
Manually focus as best you can with the scope.
Use the - and + focus buttons to make smaller changes.
appreciate you
how do i choose the right WB?
I just joined this server, here are my decent photos from the past month
whatās that last one? im thinking crab nebula
great images btw these are really good for a phone
I tend to go with what looks right, usually ~4500.
Light pollution changes seem to have the biggest impact for me.
yes
Shooting Caldwell 4
M27. SW130PDS, eq3-2 OnStep, Redmi note 7, SW let 28mm. 136Ń 32s(1h 12min), ISO 500. Bortle 7-8. Second attempt
Does anyone here stack AstroShader photos with calibration frames? If so, what is your process?
you could do darks by just pausing, and the resuming with the lens cap on for the last few subs
itās what I do but im not sure if it actually works
Unfortunately this wonāt work. You would need to shoot the darks separately and combine them in something like DSS.
AstroShader wonāt know they are dark frames that need to be subtracted from the stack. It would just average them like the light frames.
The closest thing in AstroShader is the background removal which removes some of the effects of dark noise.
I have OFFICIALLY graduated from college with my associates degree. Iāll be headed off in August for astronomy/astrophysics!!
just finished flocking my newt!
šļø what is flocking
Was gonna say that
lining the inside of a newt with flocking paper to improve contrast
flocking paper is darker than what itās usually made of
Does anybody have a 3d printer here?
Ik thats kinda a weird question, but I saw some that are not that expensive. I honestly thought they were like 3 grand or smth
#šØ-3d-printer-factory
ā¦someone in there may be able to help
It says no access?
sucks to have a phone that doesnt support raw files, and has its camera 2 API blocked by samsung
referring to samsung a54
It's an opt in channel
Oh
saudi gigachad?
hi yes 
markarians chain? 600x2s
I might have missed it but I canāt tell which galaxies are which
I definitely got something
went to a bortle 4 and snapped this beauty with an Iphone 14
That's crazy
Thatās amazing, what kind of settings did u use
19s of exposure and iso 600 i take like 132 frames, stack them together and i got 42 minutes exposure of milky way.
Proccesing with siril and photoshop as the finishing
astroshader right?
i used AstroShader
Great night, M57, M13 and M92, with my Samsung a52s and my 6"dob flextube
Wow Iām thinking off buying the heritage 150p, would you recommend it? Do you have anymore pictures??
i have the 130p and wish i had saved up a lil bit more for that goto version, i didnt know i'd end up wanting to do dso. ;c
Ahh š do you have any result pictures with 130p?? Iām also figuring about that one. Either 130 or 150
the best i have is just the moon, i tried shooting orion from b8 and it didnt go so well
Yes, I can tell you that the telescope is great, I have it for almost a year and I love that it's portable
These are just the best ones
Ask me anything about it and I will answer
Is this stacked?
This Jupiter one is stacked (my first stack)
I couldn't really see anything
Photo pleeeease
What telescope do you have?
I really want to buy a Eq mount so I can get bigger exposures
Wat dis?
Same here
Well that's sad
Orion observer 114mm
Fr
Are you sure you got the right spot?
Yeah
Wait, doesn't it have a Eq mount?
Yep
It doesn't help very much though
I find it to be a pain in the butt
I would much rather have a tracking alt az
6
I only shoot in raw if I will stack the images, which is never, I use the pro mode on my phone camera
Same
Better than my 7
You have a better tele though
Oh, so you were going to stack the images?
Do you have the tracking version of the 150p?
Nope
I was but then I realized that they were all in different positions so it wouldn't make too much sense to try
Sad
If I had a tracking mount I would def go for atleast 30 sec exposures
Just for more detail
Yes
Do like 5 of those and then stack them
But for that you need a good Eq mount
IMO, you should only stack the planets or the moon by taking a video, which doesn't work on DSOs, because they are too dark to see in a video
You go to your telescope, take a 15s video on Jupiter, go to PIPP, then to ASIStudio, then to ASIVideoStacking and there you have a nice photo of Jupiter
I usually take like 5 minute videos of planets for extra detail
Pipp is very smart about getting good frames
And auttostakkert is amazing too
But for DSOs you have to take lots of RAW shots and then stack them, combined with dark frames and all that, which is much more complicated. That's why I only stack planets and only take photos of DSO, not in raw mode, but in Gpeg
I find ASIStudio easier to use
Dso absolutely requires a tracking mount tho
Yes
Well kinda
It's a big telescope
Definitely something I am going to save up for
All untracked?
just shoot in raw anyway
shooting in jpeg ruins the image
Yes
Idk, you can see more in jpeg
Yeah but jpeg compresses the image and cuts hidden details that'd be brought out in post processing.
That's why also, if you've noticed, .raw files are much larger. There's more data hidden in them
True
I only shoot in jpeg if I'm testing stuff
It's totally fine if you want to change your scope for a bigger one, but you're underestimating yours, I took all these with my 114/900 which is pretty much same as your but longer fl
All these were in b9 with my phone, I'm untracked (the Orion one sucks and I can't reprocess it because I don't have the data anymore)
Awesome pics btw
Something like a x3 barlow would do you great
Coathanger Cluster
S22 Ultra 10x lens
