#Planetary Imaging
1 messages · Page 35 of 1
Well I don't actually need it right now cuz there's no current planets
And get IR and UV in your colour data?
its insanley good on moon
Well yeah
yeah? i do it all the time
Yeah it’s ruining your data man.
works fine
It’s a terrible idea to shoot colour without a UV/IR Cut.
Suit yourself.
Something I never recommend is to use the IR and UV cut filter in deep sky
Not sure what could be more important than a UV/IR Cut personally.
ir pass
685nm
c:
I rather recommend use IR/UV cut for planetary
my seeing is shit
sometimes 4 arc/sec 😭
sad
yeah 😦
ofc
Visible vs IR
When I was a kid I remember that great spot was 2 times Earth size
its the size of earth now
yeah
what sensor
Sad for jupiter
224
cool
so sad that i lost this data. crazy seeing (not ir)
my best color data ever
Where I live there's usually calm winds, both high and low altitudes
So bodies look good and don't blur too much
This is one of my best
Well, I realized it's not totally good
It has strong blur
It's not my best
Lemme see for any I got from the eclipse
This one is from partial phase
This one is from total phase
cool
I ran out of storage just after taking that video
And cleaning would take very long
So the best I got after that was with my phone
And not quite good
Still, I got my best of the moon using my phone
where are you based?
roughly
This was the one I took using my phone
My home is still good for some of deep sky since I live in bortle 6, so although it's not the best, still good for some
I meant state/country
Gotcha. Yeah, seeing is quite good there, or so I've heard.
The bad thing is astronomy in Florida summer
Too cloudy
I was lucky yesterday to have a very clear and calm night
But astronomy in Florida during winter is just peak
You have planets
Not too cold, usually 5-15 degree Celsius
Like
Using a UV/IR Cut would’ve helped the visible data a whole deal… unfair comparison. And also on the moon it’s a different story, imaging it in IR makes more sense because there’s barely any colour anyway. Unless you’re going for a specific vibe.
That's my summer nights. Comfortable.
Where tf u live to have such low temperature in summer
Wait
Maybe you live in south hemisphere
Cuz when summer in north there's winter in south
UK.
Yeah, though winter isn't so enjoyable given for planetary you have to stand outside with the scope... 
I can handle it
Frequently -5c or so here.
color data for color and ir for detail 
Yeah, imo 15c/60f is the optimal night temp.
tom. do you get night? like during summer?
What color is the moon (SERIOUS DEBATE)
Works alright. But still doesn’t make sense not to have a UV/IR cut.
Multi colored
Nope.
No astrodark if that's what you mean
the Sun does set however.
Same:/ no astrodark for 4 months straight here..
Yeah
If you wanna call me in a short way just use "Astro21" and I know it's me
or just @main flume 
what month?
September
Equinox enjoyer
cool
Fun fact: Saturn, my favorite planet, got a birthday gift for me, its opposition for 2025
also Tom. is there a good way to image mercury during day with manual dob?
Saturn opposition is overrated 
Manual will be some task. It's hard enough with goto
how is it hard with goto?
Never 100% accurate goto. You still struggle to find it. Tracking at least means you can keep it for long enough to image it. Manually, you'll only have it in the fov for seconds, then it's gone. Another 30 mins trying to find it lol
I once saw Jupiter in daylight
Well im not manual manual. Just not goto. (I have a eq platform)
Yeah it's possible. Mars, Venus, Mercury and Jupiter are all doable. Saturn too, but you kinda have to cheat and track it from night time through sunrise.
I woke up early and saw Jupiter, just after sunrise, and I decided to capture it and track using my old tracker (which no longer works) and I was able to take a picture of it when atmospheric scattering was storng enough to be considered daylight
I've been trying to capture ISS since january. Any tips?
How bright would i want the backround sky if im trying to find mercury at day?
crazy
This is the second day and still no luck, doesn't help I don't have goto 😭
But I just got some decent Venus data I think
Better seeing this morning, some awesome uv detail
I'm curious though, is that line a stacking artifact or some sort of cloud formation?
its still there after trying multiple ap sizes and configurations
What is better imx585 or imx715?
585
how is that even a questiom
this morn
Is that titan?
yup
what do you guys use to find transit times for saturn
thx
ir/uv
what specific filters did you use for this and how did you combine the data?
W47 + Astronomik IR block for UV, ZWO 850nm pass for IR. Since I use an OSC I stacked a mono image with the UV filter using only the blue channel. For the IR I just don't debayer, so I am left with 2 mono images.
Then in gimp I create a 50% blend of UV and IR. Then I compose an RGB image with IR for red, IR/UV 50% blend for green, and UV for blue. Then I balance the colors and I'm basically done.
thank you
do you think I could do the same thing with a 685nm IR pass?
Totally, IR usually doesn't show much detail, you could even just image in visual.
it does pass the higher wavelengths but Tom said it would give me more SNR than an 850
so UV is mostly what gives that cloud detail?
Depends on the camera, my asi462 is very good in IR
The orange you see in my image is UV
alright thanks for the info. I've always wanted to do some NB planetary and I'm finally getting around to figuring out what I need lol
Sometimes in IR you get some faint cloud wisps, but really it's more useful for the sharpness of the disk itself
In the image I did this morning, I barely got any IR detail, and it still looks good
well I'm gonna get an IR filter anyway for other things so I may as well try with that XD
Yeah I also have a 685, it can be used for a lot of things so definitely worth it, much improved seeing usually.
im curious, why does it have a darker dot in the center? Is it caused by the scope's central obstruction or something? or is there an edge rind artefact
I think both because of sharpening and that Titan has an atmosphere
hm yea probably
Details on titan is mad
That's diffraction rings pretty sure.
well
Thats tom
/edge rind
u sure?
yup, fairly certain
seen it before. Titan is similar in size angularly to Europa, plus I'm using IR here which has less resolving power.
IR has less resolving power?
Yes, if you were in space.
IR experiences better seeing, but it also has intrinsically less resolve. It's a trade-off.
Under excellent seeing, the green or blue channel should be sharpest.
610LP, OSC Mars.
can see it's sharper in VIS due to great seeing.
Ah that's good to know thanks
#1385356425072742430 message
@somber stratus Great example of what I mean by IR being sharper 99% of the time
Oh I know. Was just stating that IR does indeed have less resolving power. Whether or not it's sharper than VIS depends entirely on seeing. I made a better comparison a few days ago #1019937457095065731 message.
Yeah ik. But most cases. Ir will be sharper
big shadow
minimum angular resolution = wavelength/diameter of aperture.
This is an approximate equation but pretty handy
If wavelngth is longer, minimum resolution is larger, so u can resolve less finer details
dy you guys know how to make the tiels match in this mosaic?
it looks like the upper tiles were captured a bit before astrodark so that might be tough
yeah it was at sunset. I tried color replacing (setting background color to a different one) but nothing changes.
Don't image during an active sunset?
Ik, it was about to set behind a tree
I actually did something similar when i first started out. This looks much better for the shifting colors (three gradients) compared to mine which somehow had multiple squares showing different shades.
this is kinda cool like this
i wanna use an ir pass but my current barlow doesnt have a thread
uggg
reprocessed
You have to adjust their exposures so that match before you merge them
How to do so?
How did you merge them
Just use any photo editing app and adjust the exposure
Put it on the cam?
is it something like this?
i dont have a dedicated planetary camera yet
okay nvm i found the thread
most people use the threaded 1.25" filters.
is this good for my old horrid barlow?
no idea
8" btw
Seen better, but could easily be seeing, hence the 'no idea'
yeah. i could send a clip of the live view. and u tell me
Also mono IR doesn't help diagnose barlow issues. With OSC you might be able to see CA if it has any
it wasnt ir.
just had to make it mono cuz shit colors
it has Alot of CA
Then it's a shite barlow :)
@somber stratus live view:
do you think colimation was off?
Hard to tell. Can't be terribly far off. Barlow is bad.
true. balrlow is absolute sh-
wait. i might have a perfect example of the diffrence between them
Okay.. lets say there is a differnce... (same seeing focal and everything)
crazy..
Not using a UV/IR cut is making this worse.
What am I even looking at.
ina
new barlow vs old
Right.
Anyway it's at least partly causing the ugly colours.
real 🙂
thats why i made in mono?
.
... Converting bad colour data to mono isn't gonna improve a thing.
Your picture is still gonna be bad, just in mono.
this aint bad tho
You need to understand that a UV/IR cut doesn't only improve the colours, it also makes the data sharper... if you're trying to image visible light without blocking UV and IR you won't be able to get good sharpness because UV and IR aren't in focus like the visible light is.
It's ruining your data.
yeah ik. just dont got one
Okay but you can't keep saying that your seeing is so bad that you can never do visible light imaging, if you're always trying to image visible light without the essential UV/IR cut filter...
true
True given the barlow used, but usually they are in focus with any reasonably good setup, it's just the wider bandpass leads to worse seeing and dispersion.
yeah.
need an uv/ir cut before the end of summer lol
It’s like the cheapest filter you can get.
Fair point.
ir pass?
@livid sierra what uv ir pass?
i have alot of svbony filters. i like em
Pretty much any brand should be fine for filters, even the cheap ones.
yeah
I think I’ve heard of Svbony filters using plastic instead of glass.
Their website says glass substrate.
Looks like I’ve been proven wrong then.
But yeah even cheap UV/IR cut filters should be good.
kk
btw i have the Sv220 and the Sv183. both work great (sv220 is my most expensive filter)
btw Sv220 = 7nm Duoband
Sv183= 685nm ir-pass
how was the "false color" added to your image? https://app.astrobin.com/u/tw__astro?i=hgmh0t#gallery
i use a svbony uvir cut it works great
Palette is in the image description
oh alr
svbony is honestly goated
real
Gimp
Hello everyone
How can I post a picture here ?
This is a picture of crater posidonius made with my good old 6 inch F/8 newton Tal 150p8 :
And this one of the famous trio
And this one of another famous trio
Really sharp. But its overshapend
Its a matter of taste
Sure but its a slight problem when there are overexposed parts..
Mine
Kinda bad but yh
Crazy
Wat do you think about this ? Also oversharpened ?
Weird compression ?
I have done my best. Today I saw a picture made of this region with a Takahasi mewlon 210. I cannot help it, but my picture showed definitely more details.
Yeah thats really sharp for an 6"
What program for stacking?
Looks like autostakkrt
Autostakkert + Registax6 wavelets + Fitswork4 wavelets Rauschfilter
do yall think a mono 462 sensor is good for venus clouds and other stuff
im thinking of buying a good guidecam which will double as a planetary mono cam
bro are you flying above the moon or something
the perspective really looks like that lmao
lol
I'd say so.
Venus UV/IR this morning
it looks
very oddly blurred
i dont know why so this isnt really advice it just seem a bit off
Feels like there's a direction to the blur.
The one thing that could cause it on the processing side is a bad alignment anchor in AutoStakkert.
oh ill redo it
I think I found one, touptek gpm 462m, it’s just 90$
It is good for these goals, right?
Walking noise ... 
that aint' walking noise, perhaps it's missalignement or simply bad seeing
jet stream seeing can sometimes produce this effect
Oh I know. I've done walking noise.
I mostly do planetary so I'm being funny about the walking noise.
Seeing can be good and directional at the same time
though it rarely does a strong directional bluring like yours
What did u stack in?
Autostakkert
Dang
AutoStakkert is great. I've used others like RegiStax and AstroSurface but nothing else has been better in my experience.
yea thats what im saying
hmmm alright
deff colimation
it was perfect the night before
What could make this better
You could use higher magnification then take a mosaic image to increase the resolution
also moon compositions are nice too
like a star background, and dark side of the moon showing
take more images and stack them.
3 percent
dude with this collimation i just did i can barley focus
what is happening 💀
huh
The weight of the cam bending the parts?
Rotate the tube to a different posn (if on an eq mount) and see if the problem has any changes, i didnt have such issues as i use a webcam, it bearly has any weight but when using something like a dslr, it starts to become a real problem
I would expect that to depend on equipment vs. camera. I doubt that if someone sets a DSLR on a CDK1000 there would be any issue. Do the same on a "Captain Flexy's Scopes 'R Us" made out of plastic and there might be a slight problem.
its a super light player 1 camera on a c11
like how perfect does perfect collimation have to be
Don't think there's a simple answer to that.
It'll be more sensitive to miscollimation and easier to tell when the defocused star appears as small as possible without being in focus.
I defocus just enough to see the bright spot in the center.
yeah
even on the most basic optical setups
theres alot of nuance to that
i would guess that your collimation is actually way off in some way
I also think there's a subtle heat plume to the left.
Could've been a factor blurring the Moon image if it was present then.
Can I please get an answer to my question. My concern is that even though 462mono has a crazy qe in ir, Venus clouds are mostly UV, so idk how it would perform
I currently have an imx664 color, I understand that a mono sensor will be better for Venus clouds
I mean i've done some pretty decent imaging with my asi462mc color with a w47 filter, so that should work even better in mono.
Should work with deep uv filters too
Which 664 cam do you have? ZWO/ASI or playerone or something else?
I think the 664's cams AR glass lets in more UV than usual so might make a smaller impact going mono. Eg zwo chart of 664c vs 462m:
I have a player one
Playerone 664 has a similar AR window: Unfortunately does not show the QE below 400nm....
Dang that’s not good
So, are you saying that going mono in my situation won’t be as beneficial?
Could get some cheap diffraction grating and try to measure the sensitivity for your current camera
I think a 462 mono graph is a lot better here
In pre 400nm
Yup it is, just not sure what UV wavelength range you would want to target?
I probably won’t be able to afford a dedicated Venus clouds filter right away
I was thinking of an ir cut + w47 combo
Oh WR47 doesn't even get down to 360nm not mention 300nm so that whole thing with the AR window is not relevant:
From here: https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/703114-venus-imaging-various-tests-of-uv-violet-blue-filters/
Dang it I guess my wallet will be constantly drained for the next few years
Thank you for explaining everything, I’m glad I got an answer
I will probably still get a 462 mono as a guide cam, it’s only 88$
Mono is a necessity for UV imaging. Unlike IR, OSC cameras don't have bayer matrix transparency in UV, so you'll be using 1/4 of the pixels (B only) and at low qe.
462 is a good option.
I think you are right on the 462mono being the best option currently, and for that price definetly. Toupteks 662 mono seems to have a worse QE at 400nm and it is twice the price. Unless the 664 mono comes out or you remove the AR window of a 662 mono or something?
Uranus-M is what i'll be using from now on, but the 462 was my UV workhorse for the last 2 years
Dang that’s a good point yea
I’m settling on a 462 mono thank you guys
Yes I saw it has proven itself great
I will have a 16” dob by the end of the year that’s the plan 
Ah yes, it is much clearer with both charts for the same sensor side by side:
Colour filters do ruin the sensitivity by quite a lot.
I’m not sure how accurate that 585M graph by QHY is.
How it looks perfect
Not on its own, only when you place it between a Barlow and cam/eyepiece.
It will change the magnification factor of the Barlow.
It will basically be a spacer right?
Well can you place it between the Barlow and the scope rather than Barlow and the cam
So that it wouldn’t change the magnification
Cuz I feel like calculating perfect sampling will be a pain
Likely won’t be able to reach focus that way when using a Newtonian.
Simple matter of taking a picture and measuring the pixel scale.
Dang, but if I’m using something like a mak cass? Will it have any negative effect on image quality
No experience with Maks but going off of SCTs you’re more likely to reach focus with that than with a Newtonian. (Talking about ADC between Barlow and scope instead of between Barlow and cam.)
it shouldnt be possible to not be able to reach focus
Cuz with my mak I’m already quite over sampled
well
maks are slow as hell
expect as much
Yeah so just use a 2x Barlow and put the ADC before the Barlow.
I’ve heard of people do it with SCTs.
Saturn on the 6th (IRRGB)
Does ADC improve the sharpness of the image aside of removing fringing? There is an RGB align tool in Registax so why invest into an adc?
Yes it improves sharpness, even for mono data. There’s still dispersion within each channel, so you’ll have vertical blurring caused by dispersion of (for instance) 400nm and 450nm light not lining up perfectly in the B channel.
Last image answers your second question about RGB align.
What is ADC? I forgot
So whats the differnce between ADC and Coma Corrector?
I mean coma corrector is for Chromatic Abberations but
Both fix problems with the atmosphere
No?
How is coma a problem with the atmosphere.
Its caused by the atmosphere?
It’s literally called “Atmospheric Dispersion Corrector” and “Coma Corrector”
Look up what a coma corrector is.
Thats why there is more coma the lower the space latitude
I know what a coma corrector is
But like what does an ADC do? (Yes i did google)
Google harder.
no you do not
Says it in the name. Dispersion corrector
It removes chromatic abberations when objects are low in the sky?
thats what an adc does
Now what does a coma corrector do?

Correct, it corrects comatic abberations
Thats what I said?
not chromatic
Comatic
what do comets have?
Tails?
exactly, and the tail of a comet is called its coma
so
When your stars look like comets
And they have tails
Thats what a coma corrector fixes
TIL it's named after cometary comas.
tbh they might just have the same etymology idk if one is exactly derived from the other
@sour cradle but the only planet with a tail is mercury?
well
Only planet yeah but some moons have tails too
I still say that makes it a former comet

What? Wouldnt u wanna image that tho?
And why would it make ur planetary images sharper?
100% agree
You would
But without coma corrector
All planets look like they have a tail
its a part of the general blurring
I dont see a tail
CCs aren't used in planetary generally since you're only focused on the centre field. Some barlows are coma correcting but it's not a necessity. ADC is almost always useful however.
Its there
Though small for most planetary due to the angular size of planets
yup
Could u show me where it is in the image?
When some of Jupiter's moons are at high elongation, coma is noticable.
Yeah well I do notise illongated jupiter moons sometimes
Could easily be mistaken for collimation error though. Usually need two moons, either side to tell for certain that it's coma.
I have a good image on my computer
Thay has like 3 moons
And one of them are illongated
Look at this i made c:
Best date/time to image (planetary) in Örnsköldsvik.
Moon: 10/10 (03.00)
Mercury: 8/28 (05.00)
Venus: 08/29 (04.25)
Mars: 07/28 (17.20)
Jupiter: 12/03 (02.40)
Saturn: 12/13 (17.50)
Uranus: 11/30 (22.50)
Neptune: 12/02 (19.00)
ISS: 09/03 (03.30)
(This Year)
Great
Why is it when I use a Barlow on Saturn I get a ghost affect on the right side but not the left
To an extent it's normal. Diffraction ringing on the sunward limb (edge rind), but blurred due to seeing. Could also be slight collimation error or barlow optical issue but hard to tell
e.g
Only get it on the sharper limbs where there's a big brightness differential. Note also the NPR and ice cap causes a slight intensity increase.
all jokes aside. crazy mars photo
Interesting, thank you for answering.
I’ll test the adc with my mak on Saturn in September, I’ll just need to fix my pinched optics problem…
I think loosening my primary mirror tightening screws a bit will help, I don’t see any other solution here. Will slightly loosening them affect the collimation?
Mars is gonna be even crazier in 2033 being 22 arcseconds in diameter I can’t wait
Crazy
mars in 2033 vs now.. (my fov)
slight difference..
2033 vs latest closeup.
december 2025 vs 2033 (same zoom level btw..)
this is this morning
after collimating to the best i could
with a barlow
all my stacks had it
2035 is closer
it is?
crazy
Can you image Cheshire Cat galaxy cluster, it would come out very nice imo
Hey @somber stratus you see what I’m talking about though in that pic
^^^
And this is no Barlow
That’s no Barlow
Me Vs Nasa
Coma is an optical aberration caused by the optics, not by the atmosphere
WHA
Coma is due to shape parabolic mirrors so at the edge stars are not pin point but more like comet looking its more noticeable in lower f ratio
Are the colors whack
Which framing is the most optimal?
maximum barlow power = ~7 times pixel size in um(2.9 for uranus-c) divided by focal ratio of your scope.
I would guess closer to 2x? do remember that each box is a 4k image, not the tiny thing you see on the monitor
basically the x of the barlow that you could use and still get benefit from. Past that in theory you will not be able to get any more detail even if you make the planet bigger in the image.
I currently only have an achromatic 3x barlow, will that suffice for now or is it vital go near there
Right, since it stretches the light
what scope
so 1.7x with the formula. Is there any way to unscrew the barlow lens from it's tube? Could screw it onto the camera directly for less magnification(barlow power increases with more distance you have between it and the camera and vice versa).
basically you want nearly half of the 3x barlow you have. You would also need nice seeing to take advantage of the maximum so you could try not using the barlow or using a 1.5x effective barlow.
I don't think achro vs apo matters too much as long as it's decent.
just as planned,
So after 1.7x barlows become redundant?
could get a some cheap decent 2x one(omni 2x perhaps?) then unscrew the lens cell to get a ~1.5x barlow.
so you lose detail rather than gain?
In your case yes, you will make the planet bigger but not get any more details.
So in theory same level of details if you down sample it but it will be noiser as you have less light per pixel.
so cropping the image would work better?
No clue how good that is, I would try the omni 2x as I did hear some good things when it was compared. Very cheap on aliexpress.
For planetary you basically have to, the planets won't be bigger than ~300x300 pixels at your aperture anyway. You can use ROI(region of intrest) to record from a small crop of your sensor and get ~100+fps.
m oke
do you have any reference images to what i should expect?
Probably best not to look at any to not ruin your initial expectations: will take some time and luck(with seeing) to get the most out of your setup.
This is with pretty bad seeing, and my 8" dob + dslr, but this is roughly the similar size that jupiter will be in your images, maybe a bit bigger.
Could get a lot more details than that with your equipment.
This is my only jupiter image so thats fine haha
Do need to collimate properly, let the scope cool down enough, focus and then get lucky with the seeing. But after that you could get great images.
Did get the red spot which is nice, definetly could get way more details once you know what you are doing.
130PDS with a DSLR
Oh nice, with a DSLR? Those are a pain(but can be usable), uranus would be much easier.
Uranus-C is just for the sensor.
In theory, once I have the cam, it would be an ATR585M
Id also get CH4, IR Pass and UV filters
Ah doubling for DSO usage as well? Mono does make processing planets more complicated afaik. If you want RGB that is.
Aye but as far as I have heard it gives a lot better results
Not sure if that is true to that extent for the 585 sensor, eg Tom did get a lot of very good results with the colour 585(alongside a mono462 occasionally).
Would also complicate the barlow power thing if you put the filter wheel between the lens and the sensor. Would give you more magnification.
But if you are using it for DSO as well, probably worth it.
Didnt tom use a Uranus-M?
I think only recently
Aye
kinda offtopic but do you think the cassegrain would be nice for Galaxies and small DSO?
Maybe get a reducer? Would be a bit oversampled so would want really good tracking, and would want to do longer exposures due to slow focal ratio.
Not too experienced at high fl imaging through, so not sure.
Only for anything other than visible light.
For RGB he uses a Uranus-C with UV/IR cut filter.
Someone recommended a field flattner, some do reduce focally as well, would that work?
nvm theyre shitting expensive
i may or may not lack guiding
i do have a HEQ5 tho
Would 10 videos at 2 minutes each be to much to derotate for Saturn
Why would it be?
I did 20 at 2 min for Jupiter
~30 minutes is a good total, so 20 is fine. Anything over that becomes more of a pain to process.
I'm going to have to speed-learn my ADC and use it properly in conjunction with my UV/IR cut filter and try another Jupiter derotation. First one I did was no filter/no ADC. Came out beautifully though.
Oh dang ok
shot this
this morning
working on processing
trying to find sweet spots
I wouldn't use 20m of data for a composite like that
but that's me
also where raw vid 👀
yea i did 8
bruh i had auto center planet on
and when the iss came in frame
it locked on it
captured like 3 frames
then froze my computer
i got so lucky
to even get this image
here is the best raw frame i got
if i didnt have auto center on i would have had like 20 ish frames i could have stacked for a better iss but its ok
@somber stratus I get multiple ISS passes tonight and wanted to try it out. I can make my mount az (if that helps at all) but I unfortunately do not have a finder scope. Focal lenght is also quite high (C8). Do you think I have any chance of getting it in frame? If so, what software should I use for tracking?
You don't have enough time to test a sat tracking software ahead of tonight, too many potential problems to solve. You're better to go with hand-guiding. You need a red-dot finder at the very least.
Any suggestions for a decent-but-cheap one? Luckily passes are common so I'm not really missing anything
I'm also curious about this. Is it a capsule docking?
Anything will do. Most use a Telrad but they're expensive for a red-dot.
Inaccurate orbit data most likely. MS 30 has already docked.
Alright thank you
How can i improve my saturn image?
dont use your phone
Youre video stacking it right?
Wd check my pics with a phone, perfectly good
Ofc discord compressed it hardly
Also i just realised i got to restack it
Uranus C
You do any dso with it?
Lol ok
Since i was looking forward to buy the uranus c for planetary purposes but dso too, and everyone was saying to buy the cooled version
Oh great
It definitely gets well above ambient temp during planetary, but the short exposures mean cooling is ~useless anyway. For long exposure DSO, cooling gives some noise reduction.
Dark current is (i think) proportional to exposure time and exponentially dependent on temperature
Shot noise dominates for bright targets. Couple that with short exposures and cooled cameras become useless for planetary where both are true.
Long exposure DSO where the target is dim, aka low photon flux here is the only case where you'll see much benefit.
My first ever lunar stacking attempt. Seeing was atrocious, 35m/s jet stream according to some websites
Yeahhhh
And honestly if you can get something out of your phone, so far you've been able to get more from your phone than what I have from mine so win
if u have a webcam then u can use that, it give much better results
how old is your phone? if your phone is ancient, then u will have a fixed focus camera at the back with which if u remove its lens, it will become astromodded and will perfome great
I have like old dslr
What are the recommended settings for it? I use 2x barlow will be enough?
u will have to attach it to your scope to see if it gets focused
Umm recording only 1920 x 1080 25 fps
its fine (my webcams 1270x 720 at 7.5fps
)
Damn
yes, 2x barlow will work as longs as its in your magnification limit
900mm/ 80mm
Yesss
thats also very good, 2x barlow should work, scine the magnification will be high, its a bit difficult to reach your target manually so id recommend looking at moon first then move up from there
gtg
I see alright thanks
Ill do it tonight if its clear
Yummy
Last thing, do u have all the adapters to attach it to the scope?
It requires smth like t-ring adapter, i am not sure since i dont have a dslr
Do you use any tracker to record this?
Yesss, i have
T ring yea i have, ive tried it also, idk but the target is too dim, have to crank my shutter speed to 1/25 and iso 1600, will that work?
Oh yeah what another tips for capturing planet? I see alot of people using their device to control the camera in order to crop the images?, how to do it
U sure in focus?
Try it
Make sure planet in target isnt dim or else it will cause stacking atrifacts
this is my attempt with dslr
Thats mars?
saturn
Oh, thats definately shutter speed and focus, also try to use iso or gain rather than shutter spees
iso 1600 2x barlow and 1/25 shutter
Oh
is it too low?
Remove the 2x then try
should i crank the iso to 6400?
Try the shutter speed , if it improves, change the iso
Aww man
Have u tried moon? Since it dosent have brightness peoblem, its easy to know if we can reach fpcus
i have no problem with jupiter, it looks great tbh
Oh nice
yeah i use moon for the focus
Great
and i cross checked also with my camera zoom
Hmm
idk i think its my telescope?
Can u show the jupe img
it looks fine, what barlow are u using?
2x barlow
which company?
Not bad now
the one given with the scope?
yeah this is stacked saturn
in which format?
raw format
take video plz
wow
Im sorry but thats awful
also i need your single frame
it is
thats soo wired heres mine without barlow
this is my single frame
yeah
what camera?
mainly cause of small size of my sensor
Logitech C270 webcam
have u tried without barlow?
yess
results?
You know i havent shot saturn in a while, i have been inspired to go shoot saturn today cause i cannot let that be the only saturn image i see today lmao
wrong channel dude, its not Roast My Image lol
it might still be better, the barlow could be doing more harm than good
also, have you tried wavelets already on this?
i havent like sharpened it
its just the result of the stacked image
i cannot found the video
try some sharpening, it could get a lot better with a little bit
trust me it looks worse
lmao
the stacked?
lots of noise
i am staring to think its a iso thing
try to use shutter speed instead of iso
yeah, a lot
you mean higher shutter?
i on an avg take 5k imgs and choose inly abt 500
nono sry, ex 10ms to 100ms
alright 1/100 seems good
also what degree do you guys shoot?
zenith is the best
can your cam shoot videos in raw format?
i use pipp for all the alignments and cropping and stuff
nothing as i m untracked
nono
ok ok
it def should give good imgs
mine 80mm
but a frac
and its refractor
yeah, no obstruction,
np, clear skies
clear skies also
i did some research just now, webcam is smaller sensor which you can send more data and it has true crop, which it acts like zoom but without affecting the resolution? mine dslr it has very big chunk of empty space(black), and it cannot do like ROI(not every DSLR), astro cam had ROI, it effect my image as well, now i kind of get it why webcam had nice detail, it has smaller sensor, it sent data faster since it has already cropped also?, my dslr cannot do true crop. well the only option is i shoot with raw format, since it has bigger dimension and it captures the detail also, i wouldnt mind if i crank my iso, is dark frame for planetary really work? lemme know
its a 2011 forum, ik its kinda not relevant like now
but hey atleast it answer my question also haha
have you not been shooting raw already?
i shot raw already
but yeah my ss way too low, my pic is blurry
cannot burst
What DSLR do you have? There can be a way to get 1:1 video from some(basically proper crop). Will be compressed but so be it. https://web.archive.org/web/20240518093620/https://www.astropix.com/html/equipment/canon_one_to_one_pixel_resolution.html
1:1 Pixel Resolution in Canon DSLRs for Planetary Photography
then technically, cropping on your dslr wouldn’t improve detail
Just acquisition speed
because my dslr doesnt have true crop thats why
i have canon 1300d
well my cam isnt on that list
I think it will still work, try downloading EOS camera movie record and shooting at 5x liveview mode. Then compare planet size in a frame vs a raw image. If they are identical diameter in pixels(or pretty close) it will work.
I used my 600D with a dob like that and did get pretty nice results.
yes i already did, it did not work apperantly
when i connected my dslr to my pc via usb, it says error, cam not supported
backyard eos, i havent try it yet, but it has free trial, idk it will work or no
Aw that sucks, backyard EOS trial should work, but my FPS with it was pretty low.
That's just digital zoom
Look who's back!
yooooo
first Jupiter of the season?
i wonder how much it changed
Not expecting much based on my last image two months ago.
Similar large scale structure.
Ain’t no way bruh
I got clear skies, and I use the software for moon right now
Nice
u tried rgb align yet?
not yet this is stacked and just sharpened a bit
Ok
Thank you
Tif files?
Not my best but Saturn yesterday from the ISS shot
Damnnnn
However you do it
So good
Thx not my best seeing was decent
Ok
So rare to see iss transit
Well
The iss transits over every part of the surface generally once a day ish
as long as you are within the latitude of the iss
i got satelite passing saturn, but sadly i didnt record it long and i dont realize it also haha
can you see it with naked eye?
idk is iss bright enough?
Mostly yes
Not during day transits or at midnight ofc
i see
clear outside and other apps will show you when visible transits happen
my best saturn image so far,
ik it lacks of detail, not showing any bands etc
rings are awful
but yeah i kinda glad i made this haha
Hows this framing?
Pretty good
Yea pretty good
This is the fov I'll have, quite tight
Hopefully I can find saturn without a finder scope lol
This evening's snap. 30-frame stack w/ the 16".
jeeze
Insane work (as always).
How would yall rate this?
@livid sierra @somber stratus I am trying to use 2 camera (one for guide scope) and I remember Duif mentioning limiting FPS of the guide cam to like 10 fps to balance USB traffic.
Although I have both camera connected and am able to see through the live view, I am unable to cap the FPS to 10 on my guide cam. The FPS option in firecapture is "disabled". Is there a way to enable this feature?
For reference I am using an ASI178mc as the guide cam.
I think Duif originally got that from me iirc. I use sharpcap for the guide cam view which can cap fps, and also for the reticule overlay which you can align on a star before the pass.
e.g last night
Apollo-Max running 65ms (to reduce trailing) and capped at 8fps.
main cam running via FC on the right
Ahhh ok, I'll give it a shot with SC for the guide cam. However, I am still curious about doing the same thing using FC (limiting FPS like in SC), do you know of any way to enable this feature?
Not sure, I'd have to dig a little. I do know lowering USB traffic works (but don't do this if you're using a USB hub)
Oh man, I'm excited to get this working. Trying to use the finderscope with a reticle is such a pain in the neck
Yeah, I am using a hub since my laptop only has 1 USB port. I did try playing with USB traffic setting but that had a minimal affect
Oh, wait I guess I didn't see the checkmark next to FPS. Maybe that'll do it! I was doing my testing outside during the day and laptop screen was barely visible lol
Yeah that’s it. But what I meant before is that the guidecam will be running at ~10FPS regardless of setting a limit because you’ll be running it at around 100ms anyway. I’ve imaged a handful of classified satellites for which you’d need even longer exposures for them to even be visible in the guidecam. I don’t find trailing to be a problem because the satellite should be a nice dot anyway if you’re not manually slewing around. Once you get it in the main cam view you’ll only really need the guidecam in the case that you lose it in the main cam. @heavy mirage
And I use FC for both the main cam as well as the guidecam. You can do that by duplicating the main folder of FC, and opening the new duplicated FC as a secondary instance next to the main FC. I have it on my desktop as “Firecapture - Guidecam”.
Really, 100ms? I feel like that would make the sky super bright with a 40mm guide scope , but I'll try it out.
What is the benefit of having a duplicate FC folder? There is an option in the FC settings to allow multiple FC instances to run simultaneously
It works but using a duplicated FC is safer against crashes. What finderscope do you use? I use my 9x50 as the guidecam.
Found my 3x Barlow @dark cargo
100ms works perfectly. As seen in the video I’ve shared before. https://discord.com/channels/794642864218439681/1374846311219855381
Ah I gotcha, then it probably is a safe bet to make a duplicate folder.
I am using the SV165 40mm. I was tired of the adjustment screws on the 9x50 that came with the scope and I felt like 9x50 was a bit too high magnification
What’s the focal length on that? The SW 9x50 should be about 180mm, so focal ratio is about f/3.6.
This one is F4
spider
Ah should be around the same exposure then. But just test around a little. ISS is very bright so can’t miss it too easily.
Yeah definitely, I'll mess around with it. I guess the other annoying part about the 9x50 was the weight lol
I’ll admit the adjustment screws on the SW finderscope are a bit wonky.
But the finder does the job as a guidescope for me so far.
I would love to use it as an e-finder permanently, also for planetary work. May be able to get my hands on an ASI120MM Mini, but still not completely sure if it’s worth it.
Yeah, it is kinda wonky having 2 cables connected lol
That, and the money could be invested in other things.
Would love a proper UV filter finally for example.
Astromania 1.25-Inch Specialized Planetary Imaging Filter Set.This set of three imaging filters includes the most vital filters for optimizing monochrome planetary portraits. Includes an ultraviolet (UV) filter, infrared (IR) filter, and methane (CH4) filter.Methane (CH4) filter boosts contrast a...
All three filters for $86?
Yeah, does seem kinda cheap lol but the brand seems ok
Anyways, I'm going to head out for now. Thank you for all your help!
Much cheaper than most brands yes. Would love to hear your thoughts on them once you have them.
I’m also somewhat interested in a tighter CH4 filter.
Will be heading out now too. You’re welcome btw.
@heavy mirage for what it's worth I purchased a 3x Barlow from Astromania, it was decent. So if their filters are built the same way/standards for overall quality, they'll be decent. Just won't be the $500 Baader type. 🙂
Yes. They’re pretty good for their price, but you get what you paid for.
I know this doesnt count as planetary but look at what my asi 662 captured last night
Star Trails, pretty cool
they look promising
Ive been wanting to buy a set for testing but i havent gotten to it yet
rate my saturn
10/me
@dark cargo How viable is imaging Saturn in this brightness with my setup?
This is about the minimum height i would require saturn to be
Looks like 18 degrees alt which is pretty low, but could get results with good seeing.
For the light you will have worse contrast, what altitude is the sun at that time?
roughly -10
I only ever did visual of the planets when it was still bright: saturn was significantly harder to see than Jupiter due to it's lower brightness
Hmm probably fine? Astrodark is -18 so you are approximately only 30 minutes from that.
What would you guess is the maximum
I would be more concerned about the seeing than the brightness, which you do need to get pretty lucky to get something decent at that altitude. But I never really imaged in these conditions, only brighter planets like mercury or venus.
If you want to try now, then do so but I would probably be abit patient for best results. Ideally >25-30 degrees altitude.
well im certain i can get a result that is better than uh, this
trying never hurt nobody
Oh definetly, give it a go!
I give a try on saturn, well kinda happy with the result haha
Prob my sharpest image on saturn
Any feedback to improve?
I got venus also
@somber stratus
Hi, I don’t wanna be a bother but you are the only guy I know with a 16inch dob
I got an offer for a 16“ Meade Lightbridge dob for 1.2k, but I am very unsure:
How do you use your dob so effectively?
What accessories do you use?
What are the cost of those accessories?
And how worth it is it really?
Does it have tracking? Will be hard to take full advantage of the aperture without it. Lightbridges did not come with a goto system. Someone would've had to add it on.
Nope, thats the thingn
HDR, Mineral, Buck moon
Clean
