#Planetary Imaging
1 messages · Page 29 of 1
Though I will say for Venus, your scope is surely capable of capturing good cloud detail with uv filters. Worth pursuing if you can get one
@somber stratus since I'm buying an imx178 for guiding (and that's mono too) do you think it would make sense to shoot luminance only on planets? Just because if I were to shoot colors I would be really limited in the amount of time I can image with each filter. I would get a very sharp mono image tho, there's pros and cons. What do you suggest?
Luminance is not a good filter for planetary imaging. It is more sensitive to seeing conditions than individual RGB filters and you don't get a color image.
So I should shoot RGB only? How much time per filter? If it's needed I would be shooting with a C8 with a 2.25x Barlow. The camera could be a 533 or a 178 I have both
Also, wouldn't the time needed to swap filters be an issue?
They are indeed quite pricey though. How would IR pass filter do instead?
IR pass works, but you’re less likely to catch cloud structure in IR. Most of the cloud detail is in UV/NUV
Sometimes it’s visible in VIS
A W47 with a UV/IR Cut that passes around 380nm, like the Player One, can be used to image in NUV
Much cheaper than an actual UV filter, but of course there is less contrast in NUV. Also keep in mind, to really properly image in UV you need a mono cam. For NUV, an OSC cam can technically be used. But getting an actual UV filter without having a mono cam is a waste of money
I'm sure that someone will correct me here. Planetary though is usually done in RGB only, most of us use UV/IR cut filter only unless they're doing something special/neat (Methane/IR Pass/etc). IR pass is good for lum; however, since rotation is a thing and can be quite evident on some planets (ahem - Jupiter) the focus is on RGB to get detail. IR can give some enhancement but it's usually a single bit out of a few images.
Or if @livid sierra is contradicting me then listen to him. 🤷
tl;dr my thought is focus on RGB, but filters can get good data, I haven't finessed using more than UV/IR but I imagine the way planetary is done time between filter swaps wouldn't be too much of an issue anyway in spite of planetary rotation.
I would also eliminate CAs shooting RGB right?
My main question is how much time I should image with each filter. My guess is like 40 seconds at most but I've no idea
Are you imaging by long exposure photo or video? Planetary is done by taking a short video with exposure set as short as possible (I set my exp at about 9ms and gain to compensate). Vid for about 1.5 min. So a couple of vids with UV/IR cut, then one with another filter (all I have rn is IR Pass)
I've actually been thinking about that to work a IRPass filter in a Jupiter imaging session. I usually do 10 vids at a time.
Bro
Ha! Nono, I meant with UVIR, w/o other special filter. Good gravy, that Saturn image was enough shudder
Sounds promising. I’ll check out the W47 as I don’t have a mono cam with me
I'll shoot video. Isn't an UV/IR cut just a luminance filter? The one I have literally only allows visible light trough so that's it?
It’s essentially the same. But if you’re going to image in mono with an L filter then you’re gonna need an ADC just like you would with an OSC cam, or the image will look blurry due to atmospheric dispersion
The ADC would still benefit even when imaging through RGB filters
But if you don’t mind having no colour in your image, then just image through an R, G or B filter instead of L, because there’ll be less atmospheric dispersion through individual filters
R will have the best seeing, B will have the best resolution but needs good seeing. But they will look very different from each other obviously
If you are using a mono camera, you'll need to use the filters individually. The time it takes to swap the filters between videos will not be an issue since it shouldn't be more than maybe a minute or two; less if you have a drawer. Keep in mind when I say that I am thinking that if I were doing mono and using filters, I'd shoot one video with one filter, change filter, then shoot another, then do it again.
I have a filter wheel
But how much video time should I get per filter?
I'lll honestly say I'm not sure
Cause people told me 3 minutes with osc is barely okay, if that's the case tho I'm forced to do less than a minute per filter
50 seconds assuming I can switch filters in 10
I image for 1.5 min with my 585 in OSC, and that's not an issue. It does make sense that filters would require less time. Tom has done some absolutely fantastic stuff to the point that we think he's just deleted the atmosphere over his house. He will take a couple of minutes between images to defrost his mirror if he has to, and his derotated images are incredible.
tl;dr don't worry about the inconsequential amount of time it takes to swap filters.
I'm guessing winjupos is the way to go then
I guess I'm gonna try a lot of different things
Like 30 seconds per filter, one minute per filter, then 2, and so on
Also my camera does 60fps at native resolution so with the correct ROI it's gonna be very fast
So I can get away with less video time
My best image came from me doing 20 individual images, doing a quick preliminary process, then sending them through WinJUPOS.
This is how it came out
Only 20 images? I'm no expert but I'm pretty certain thousands of frames are gonna outperform 20 single images every single time
He means 20 stacks..
He said individual images so I thought he meant individual exposures.
I took a shortcut, and got lost in translation. Sorry. Duif is right, I did mean 20 individual stacks. Each stack was processed out of a 2 minute video. I think the only thing I really could have done different is a little more denoise maybe.
What do you use for stacking? There's a bit of a "halo" artifact around Jupiter that I associate with WinJupos doing its thing, is that what you used?
@summer pebble this is what I got out of just one of the stacks.
I use autostakkert for each capture and then winjupos for each stack
I’m not entirely sure where the artifact arises from
Huh. I use SharpCap to capture, AutoStakkert to stack. From there, AstroSurface. For me, WinJUPOS is for when I'm derotating.
Ah, perhaps I was too unclear. My process is firecapture to capture, autostakkert to stack, registax for wavelets, and then i use winjupos for derotation.
Garbage everything on my and the atmospheres part, however I managed to get this pretty interesting moon arrangement at around 10:15pm AEDT today:
Callisto up top, Ganymede on the right and Io transiting Jupiter below both
Lucky arrangement, nice
Does anyone know what my fl will be after I’ll add an omegon Adc? I currently have a native fl of 1500mm and a 2.5x Barlow
How much will it increase
It’s kind of a gamble
It depends on the specific Barlow and additional backfocus of the ADC
But probably I’d count on the ADC making the Barlow magnification ~3.5-4x
@livid sierra . With my C8 and the imx178 what power Barlow should I get? Also, what Barlow brand to you suggest? I'd probably go for TeleVue cause they everything they make is good but I don't know.
For good sampling you want the focal ratio to be at 5-7x the pixel size, so that’s f/12-f/16. Because the C8 is at f/10 you would need a 1.5x Barlow, but those aren’t as common as 2x or 3x Barlows
So you could stay at f/10 and be a tad undersampled, or look for a 1.5x Barlow, or just get a 2x and be a little oversampled
And yeah Televue is good, or Celestron X-Cel Barlows have a good reputation too and are a little cheaper
Good to know, I actually have a 1.3x Barlow so I could use that
I also have a 2.25x one and I could use it for the imx533. With that the ratio is 6
What are the timeframes of the stacks and what time did you use for reference timeframe
Move the image window and send another screenshot
Cool
Very nice mate
hewo
snazzy
Anyone have tips for photographing ... or maybe processing ... Jupiter's moons?
I may or may not have taken a few images without Jupiter but involving Callisto; then Io, Europa, and Ganymede.
Is this raw with no editing? I took a video but I cannot figure out how to process it
autostakkert
My problem is that pipp gets confused by the moon and mars and doesn’t know what to stabilize and my video is a .mov cuz I don’t have an Astro camera
just dont use pipp???
Is there an app to transfer the video to an avi
not that i know of
You can just use PIPP without any of the processing features, just load the video in and set the output to avi
Thank you
My first attempt at an HDR moon
Not that sharp since I have a cheap lens
I use GIMP
Is it good?
Or mid
good
Yay
Yea its on my laptop
Stacked best 150 frames of 600
Jupiter along with Io and Ganymede
I may or may not have forgotten to use my uv/ir cut filter...
yummy
Nice
Jupiter Jammin
Mine don't rotate like that, how'd you do that? Did you reposition or just imaging for a while?
With a little sacrifice
Jammin' 'til the jam is through
We're jammin'
To think that jammin' was a thing of the past
We're jammin'
And I hope this jam is gonna last
No bullet can stop us now
We neither beg nor we won't bow
Neither can be bought nor sold
(jamming by bob Marley)
Oh I simply put 10 two-minute captures (after processing them) through pipp and used the gif output option
Think he means the field rotation, looks like you were imaging as it reached zenith
Alt-az moment
ah, in that case 100%
i am without an eq mount unfortunately
Aha
This should make for interesting imaging if I ever get my Nexstar up and running.
Oooohh
second time for me ever doin planetary, heres the data if anyone wants to play with it and also heroic frog's process of my data
I'll play
WOAHH Great process!! personnally id sharpen a lill less
Yeah, I used the settings that I work with on Rio (my 8") to work with the image from your 6".
Nice work. When can we get your seeing conditions?
sacrifice a powerseeker
Gips on getting bettef?
Lower your exposure(not too much or ringing artifacts may appear)
Barlow up
Get more frames and choose best 100-2000 frames depending on your camera noise
For jupiter, a stack must not exceed 2mins (realtime) it smudges the surface detalis
Hm I took a look at damian peach's pickering scale and it looks like i never got more than a 4/10 since I got my 10" and my average seeing is around 2/10...
Last bit may depend on camera; with my DSLR I was doing 3m and it didn't appear to smudge but that probably had to do with the level of detail it was able to capture.
Nonetheless, all correct.
I’ve had about two nights of like 7/10 seeing this season, been rough going for us
And those were only small portions of nights as well
Hope we all have better luck this coming season
Does anyone know how to download Registax or have a download link? The download link on their website doesn't seem to work, I don't think its something with my computer but it is entirely possible
Use astrosurface, or wavesharp I think it’s called. New thing from registax developers
Going to recommend astrosurface. I used registax, then moved to Astrosurface, my processing started coming out better partly from what I learned and partly from using a program that was easier for me.
I have tried WaveSharp and .... um. I found it to be more of a WTFI instead of a UI and couldn't get anything out of it.
Thanks!
yo, i shot jupi again, this time with a lil better seeing, could u pls process it the same way u did the other jupi stack?
(the image is unprocessed)
i gave it a go
def could do bettet
Great process but y is there a wing around Jupiter
My attempt, very fast so it sucks
No sharpening?
Tiny amount, I'm still lerning how registax works
Like the colors
Every time I sharpen it looks too aggressive to me
I tweaked calcuphers process a bit
The clouds have been tormenting me for days now and i had a desire for processing images so i tried my best on this one
Why do your colors suck so much
Do you even do an rgb balance?
I clicked on it when stacking in autostacker
Yeah, you need to hit autobalance after that
This is the result after rgb balance only, there's nothing else applied
Colors are already way better
you need to do an rgb align as well
Use small scale wavelets
Guys I still don't have a reducer so I cannot do DSO but I can do planetary, my question is: since my guide cam is gonna be the one I'll use to image, how do i track planets with nina?
Cause I'd like to automate the rig to create a timelapse
And if I don't polar align perfectly I might lose the planet, my fov is pretty tight
@livid sierra @somber stratus is this even remotely okay for planetary? My sensor is very very tiny so even tho it's not an apo I don't think CA is gonna be a big issue (imx178) https://www.astroshop.it/lenti-di-barlow/baader-lente-di-barlow-2-25x-1-3x-q-1-25-/p,33612
Is that saturn?

yes, yes it is
I've looked into getting it before and I don't think its the best option. Omni 2x seems to be better even through its much cheaper?
This is one of the only barlow comparison documents that I could find: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1K3wkihKAZt_NoFcEkadG1_R0EAKzj3dG/view
i was told svbony ones are better than the omni
the apo ones, not the ultra cheap ones
Those are GSO rebrands I think?
whatever they are they are very cheap for their quality if it's really that good
yeah the celestron 2x omni is perfectly acceptable in my experience
I adjusted my settings this time.
Woah thanks you so much man
I could basically drop the Barlow then, I have 2.4um pixels and at 4500mm I would be oversampled. I can use the 1.3x Barlow, that should perform better
This is my jupiter with my phone and telescope
Does it look good?
Telescope 80mm with 900mm focal length and use 10mm eyepiece
@somber stratus I need some help for planetary, I'm gonna try for the first time today. My Barlow is not that good but I can make it 2.25x or 1.3x by unscrewing one glass element. I have two cameras, one is the main camera with 3.76um and the other is the guide camera with 2.4um. What combination of camera/Barlow should I use? The 2.25x with the 3.76 would be a pretty good sampling but I'm worried the Barlow is not sharp enough, is using the 2.4um pixels with the 1.3x Barlow better to make the quality of the Barlow less important?
I think he explained once that Barlow quality doesn’t actually impact the image quality at all as I believe seeing is generally the overweighing limiting factor. I think good barlows are inly noticeably better when there is good-excellent seeing. Could be wrong though.
Your seeing will be biggest limiter. Personally I’d use the camera with smaller pixels as that can capture greater detail. Unless your Barlow is absolute plastic junk it likely won’t make an overall difference on the image.
I'll send link to the barlow
It’s not one that I personally would get but the important thing is that the lenses are glass. Should be fine to use with 2.4um pixel camera
At either magnification
So you think that with 2.4um pixels and at 4500mm I'm fine? Seeing is really gonna limit but yeah
At native resolution...
This might be too much magnification
I can always unscrew the extra glass element and use it at 1.3x if i see seeing is limiting too much
Worst that can happen is that you look at it and say, “well that didn’t work out”
Yeah that's what i like about planetary, it's easier to try multiple things out
So i don't need an apo barlow?
It probably depends on how big your sensor is
Even non-apo barlows correcto for cromatic aberration but near the center it's usally fine
imx585?
yes
Very very small
i want to get a new barlow to get 3000mm
😨
cause my current is only 2x
1500mm
and it's a cheap svbony
4x barlows need to be more expensive i think
but if it really doesn't matter then ill probably get that cheap 5x svbony one
Because at higher power the fact they are cheap becomes quite evident, this is my understanding at least
so what would you reccomend?
It depends on your budget
If you only care about performance Powermates are probably the way to go
i have absolute shit seeing always
so it doesn't need to be that good
If you have bad seeing there's no point in a 5x imo
I'd go AT MOST for a 3x
For Barlow lenses, I've used the kit Celestron 2x, the Astromania 3x, Svbony 2x, and I switched my Astromania 3x for a Celestron X-Cel 3x. I can speak well for all of them.
also I do have an Orion 5x Barlow lens and that was most handy for imaging with my DSLR.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ArROohpJeEBCHt3LEfprNbgkvKOwTb5y/view?usp=sharing can u pls process one last thing for me, this is a jupi stack with red spot and better seeing
Definitely not needed with a planetary cam
Won't be immediate but I'm having fun with those. Prob tonight.
If u can pls try to process it exactly like this
Appreciate it
@terse night picking a camera pixel size doesn’t depend only on focal length but rather focal ratio as a whole
@terse night what @livid sierra said and there's some formulae behind it. I mentioned smaller pixels for detail based on my setup, and I did presume similar setup or something for which the smaller pixel would be appropriate.
4x is optimal for me
and since i don't see any cheap 4x i wanted to go for 5z
5x
If 4x is optimal, then 3x will serve you well enough. If you get 3x plus ADC and learn how to use the ADC then that's near 4x.
Speaking as a guy for whom 4x is optimal as well, and am using 3x. I need to pick up skills with the ADC.
Speaking from experience, 5x is too much.
Yeah my native focal ratio is 10 so that would be 13 or 22.5
The 13 focal ratio would probably do well with the 2.9µm camera. My 585 has that pixel size and my ideal f/ ratio is 14 I think (what brings my best Barlow to 4x). So yours is similar. Not sure what the 22.5 would be best at though.
Best option is probably f/13 with your 2.4um pixel camera
f/22 is pretty oversampled for 2.4um and undersampled for 3.76um
f/13 should do pretty good with 2.4um
What are the cameras in question? I’m guessing imx224 for the 3.76um one?
And again, focal length alone is pretty irrelevant when it comes to sampling, you need the focal ratio to make any useful statements about it. An image with your scope at 2600mm f/13 with the 2.4um will look quite the same as 3800mm f/19 with the 3.76um for example
imx178 for the 2.4um and imx533 for the 3.76um
So if I wanted to image with my 533 what Barlow works best? I'm guessing a 3x?
I feel good seeing that your statement agrees with mine, thank you. I have no understanding on the formulae involved but I remember the specific numbers of my setup and they were close.
If you want to use the 533 you should use a 2x to be at f/20, that’s a little over 5x pixel size, or a 2.6x for f/26, that’s 7x pixel size, good sampling for blue light
But combining a 2x with a spacer like an ADC could also get you at f/26 if they go together
Depends on the specific Barlow and the length of the ADC
5x pixel size is good sampling for red light, but undersampled for blue light
Could you suggest me a good 2x Barlow and a good ADC?
Should I go for something in the middle or straight up get 2 barlows?
Why 2 barlows?
Celestron X-Cel barlows are good and any ADC would do the job. ZWO is good, as is omegon. Omegon is a little bit taller than ZWO
I use an X-Cel myself, they’re relatively cheap for their quality
I think the 2x X-Cel with the ZWO ADC would result in something between 3-3.5x
Two different barlows for two different colours, seems overkill to me
No
5x or 7x are both good, but most people aim for 7x so they are perfectly sampled for blue light in case excellent seeing comes along
It doesn’t really matter that red is oversampled then
Oh okay
Just aim for something 5-7x
With the 2.25x and the 533 I'm at 6x
Cause I'm at f/22.5
True
If I place the Barlow before the filter wheel I'm also slightly further from the camera so that results in more magnification (?)
But I thought you would rather want to image at 1.3x so you would only have to use one barlow element
Yeah because I'm worried about the quality of this Barlow
Correct, the filter wheel acts as a spacer
It’s your decision then
I guess I'm just gonna try a lot of things out
Should be clear almost all time tonight
Well thanks for all the help @livid sierra
My $0.02 to this is that your Barlow should not be an issue in either event. Use the 1.3x with the 2.9µm camera, have fun.
Of course, don't take that to mean that I would discourage you from trying stuff out. I've done it and you're on track to try a few more things than what I've considered. 🤷 🙂
what software u use to proceess?
AstroSurface.
Followed by Gimp for final touch-ups
ok
Is astrosurface better than the pipp, autostakkert, and registax processing
I still use AutoStakkert for stacking. Since my videos are avi or ser I skip PIPP altogether. Both AutoStakkert and AstroSurface can handle frames from avi/ser files.
@tiny topaz ⬆️
But if you hypothetically take 5 1min videos how do you get the 5 images together to stack all of the frames? Or do you stack all of them separately and then derotate?
Stack separately and derotate
That arena is where I believe AutoStakkert might be preferred for stacking, even among AstroSurface fans, because AutoStakkert actually centers the planet
AstroSurface stacks based on where the video started.
im thinking of going to sleep soon so will u process my jupi tmrw or like in a bit?
sry for being impatient lol
I've been working this entire time ... will be later tonight. Not for the next couple of hours at least. If you sleep, you sleep and likely wake up with the processed Jupi.
Don't worry, I'm looking forward to working with it. 🙂
ohhh u live in america, i live inn europe and here its 1am so night for u will prob be in like 5 hours, ima go sleep gn
Ah, okay. Well gn.
i think you could bump up the contrast aand the sharpening a lil bit, heres your process after i tweaked it a bit
but bc i tweaked it with my phone its a lil compressed and also sharpening with my phone isnt as good as with a software so if u could do that i would appreceate so much
do you think 3minutes of video messed with my shhot cause of the rotation?
i de rotated it and it looks a lil sharper now
3 minutes didn't seem to be too long for my DSLR; however I'm pretty consistently doing 1.5 min now and I may at some point see how 1.5 looks on the DSLR if I get a night of good seeing.
Believe it or not, I had a hard time with that because it didn't need a lot of adjustment. 😆 I'm soo used to working with seeing conditions that aren't ideal, or average, that I have to adjust wavelets a bit more than what I did here. So when I did the usual adjustments it was a LOT and I had to adjust
thede rotation helped a lil
my seeing was really goodd when i took it
did u try processing it the exact same way as this??
Haven't yet. Might not get to it for a few hrs. Lucky me works Saturdays 🙂
I did see what you did so I was going to try doing that. I think I can adjust contrast pretty easily on my end, I didn't delete the files I created as I was working with it so all I have to do is go in and touch up one of the edited and export to png again.
thx again for all the proccessing
I think this looks a bit better now.
This one seemed a little brighter and I was a little hesitant to apply too much contrast because I didn't want to lose shape or stuff but I went back to where I stopped before taking it into Gimp, applied more contrast, got it more on target.
WOWOWOWOWO
can u sharpen iit a tiny bit more?
I tried to! 😆
also last request, can i have the file so it isnt compressed?
The tif that I was working with you mean?
ye
is this a screenshot?
Nope! That's the png. If you click it, then click open in new tab, it'll load the png
You should be able to download
Oversaturated and cooked imo, also bit too purple
Too much contrast
Easier on the eyes
@low tendon If you sharpen too much it gets too contrasty, and applying contrast on top of that makes it worse
@white prawn Did you use the curves in Astrosurface?
This looks like what I had it at, when I first called it good.
No, I actually took it out of Astrosurface after I finished wavelets and the initial gain/contrast adjustment. I finalize curves in Gimp
Yeah looked similar, still a tad too purple but sharpening looked more subtle
I see
I barely use any contrast adjustments on my image, just a tiny bit
I'll try playing with curves in AstroSurface at another point/ another of my images. I'm starting to become more aware of its functionality.
So far the thing that I don't like is that when I pull an SER in for stacking, the planet can't be centered; it stays right where it was on the first frame.
As far as contrast - I think Tom gave me a hint about adjusting gain/contrast just a small amount to enhance curvature and get rid of flat disk and make it stand out from the background. And yahoo it works.
I was just wondering if that was what you used. I would stay away from the curves feature in AS tbh, it always does too much in my opinion
And also don't use Astrosurface for stacking, I tested the difference between AS!4 and Astrosurface a few days ago, and the Astrosurface stack was noticeably softer, less detail
Okay, that saves me the trouble, thank you.
It did help me get a usable Mars image though.
Regardless, if you use the cutout box feature in Firecapture you wouldn't have to worry about the planet not being centred in every frame of the video
I use SharpCap and it sounds like I'll have to do a quick learn of FC. If I can get my Nexstar setup maybe I can use that to remotely image planets instead of standing outside and adjusting the OTA.
I mean 4" vs 8" but the 4" is computerized.
Sharpcap is so far behind Firecapture in terms of planetary imaging, it's better for DSO. And sure, if you can find a way to control the Nexstar mount from your pc inside
The 8" will always perform better than the 4" though, tracked or not
Yeah, I know that. She won't replace Rio, not by a long shot. I do want to see what can be done and get my hands on doing something remotely. Especially since I'm still in "below zero" season. Celestron 130 SLT for $80. For that, I figure:
- Familiarize myself with a form of computerized setup
- Familiarize myself with software that works better, especially w/ computerized setup (doesn't FC follow if you tell it to?)
- Ability to remote into the computer from a warm location when the weather is double-digit negatives
- Okay, let's see what 130mm can do (knowing full well that Rio is a more capable OTA)
I especially wouldn't mind the ability to control from inside since last time I went outside I had to spend some time at end of session defrosting my feet. After they were in wool socks and 40 below boots.
i dont think i ever will bc of strong air currents 😭
i tried de-orbiting my jupi, put my coordinates, time in which the pics where shot and outlined my frame correctly , but itt just stackkedd it without de-orbiting, can someone help me out?
it just shmeered jupiter
Derotate after sharpening
My understanding is that we do a little bit of sharpening, not a lot, before the derotate, then fully sharpen after the derotate. Basically sharpen enough for the program to see what's what.
I do it the other way around
Derotating is done to denoise by adding more data, so you sharpen beforehand, then derotate to reduce the noise
Possibly some very subtle additional sharpening afterwards
Idk where you get that from
Was my understanding from Nick
Nick didn’t sharpen at all before derotating
When I was talking to him about it he said to sharpen at least a little, enough so that the program could see the features, then fully sharpen after derotating.
If best results is to sharpen/process like its an individual image before sending it to derotate, I'll do that from now on when derotating.
Yeah best is to derotate after sharpening
The tif Nick shared earlier had limb artefacts which I suspect are caused by sharpening too little before deroating
The program doesn't "see" anything. It's purely map computation and stacking based on the outline frame you provide it.
Apparent contrast is irrelevant. What is needed is a sharp limb so that you can align the frame well.
So basically process enough to get a sharp limb
Jupiter image taken with my phone and Orion StarBlast, I'm happy with it considering it's my first planetary image
Super cool!
Niceley done
Does anyone know why my stacked photo looks like this?, I used autostakkert and PIPP.
what the...
This has happened to me before, and using larger alignment boxes in autostakkert seems to fix the issue, I don’t know if that’s the best solution though
You don’t need a lot of alignment squares. I use auto-place and a size that sets between 10-15 alignment points. Then I set a few points off the smallest size at areas of interest
I use 1 AP in jupiter (drawn manually ) and it works
Do you guys do noise reduction before or after derotating?
Damn
Using spacers between the Barlow and camera makes a huge difference
My newest image in kinda bad seeing conditions
Single stack
1000 frames
12” dob, imx224
Idk what the fl is now
And this is using the same rig but with less fl, seeing was abut the same
That looks like deroation issue
The one derotation I did so far: I did white balance and enough wavelets to define the edges, then ran it through derotation. Finalized wavelets and noise reduction after derotation.
It’s a single stack
I didn’t derotare
@dark cargo do you know how to calculate the fl after adding spacers to my Barlow?
Could be useful to see if I have good sampling
Try
best option is to figure out the sampling via the planets size in the image, you can use this calculator. Just get the planets apparent diameter at the time from stellarium.
https://www.astropix.com/html/astrophotography/astrophotography-calculators.html#effosi
There is another calculator on here to figure out focal length from the spacing but you need to know your barlows focal length, which is usually not stated and I don't quite know how to figure it out.
Well I guess you could use the fl from the first calc then measure the distance from barlow to sensor and get it that way?
Calculators for Astrophotography
Hey guys just wondering what this reddish dot on my Jupiter image is. I was recording Jupiter on January 30th, 8:20PM EST. I hope its a jupiter impact, but I need to verify with others if they were capturing if they also have it in their image as well. I tried two different stacking softwares and it appears in both of them. The seeing was abysmal, so bad that you cant even make it out in the live video. It only appears after stacking and sharpening using wavelets. I have done minimal processing because I dont want to introduce artifacts into the data. This has been sharpening in astrosurface using the wavelets function, and its been colour balanced. If you guys dont know if this is an impact or not where would I go to figure this out? ALSO, I completely forgot to point it out but Its the reddish dot on the lower equatorial belt on the Western side of the disc.
One or two?
One. More contrast of colors, doesn't look ill.
One is a bit too blue for me
Maybe point out the spot you’re referring to? I see one little red spot and it just seems like a tiny disturbance in Jupiter’s atmosphere. An impact typically appears as a bright white flash, not red
I made a post about it in the planetary gallery
An impact would also only appear for a very short time, say maybe a second or two
its more detailed there
Yeah not an impact
At least I highly highly doubt it
Just seems like typical cloud disturbance that is all over Jupiter
just a little more red then?
It is not even a weird amount of red tbh
I saw the post
compared to its surroundings its noticable
The first image shows the scars left by Shoemaker Levy
Jupiter got bombarded with many fragments of an asteroid back then
yes I am aware of what the other image is, I was just comparing them for the colour.
Well they don’t look similar imo and yeah again it doesn’t look like anything out of the ordinary
In your image
What you could do is look on alpo and see if anyone has imaged Jupiter when it showed the same face
And see if it’s there, but it won’t really make it any clearer if it’s an impact or not
Will just show that you captured the same cloud as someone else did lol
This is my image from last year feb and it seems to also have it.
is this good for a cellphone?
?
😭
Screenshot the image and re send it, that works for me
Hey! I've got thos UV, rgb and IR Venus but I have no idea how to process it cleanily. I can see the cloud but I need to sharpen a lot and it completely blows out the edge of the planet. If anyone is willing to give it a try or give advice, thanks
Hey, does anyone know of any good scopes (for planetary) that can go on the skywatcher gti mount? it has a payload capacity of 11lbs.
I doubt that any decent scopes exist that my mount can handle, I just wanted to see if anyone has any recomendations before I go into credit card debt by buying a new mount.
Usually they don't sell planetary dedicated scopes without a mount, but the 130pds(which should work fine for planets too) is around 9 pounds so would leave ~2 pounds for barlow + camera which might be just enough. The weight is according to FLO, might be able to find a more specific answer somewhere else: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/telescopes-in-stock/skywatcher-explorer-130p-ds-ota.html
Outside of that you could DIY a hadley aka a 114/900 OTA. Would be very cheap and much lighter, but you'd have a worse focuser than the 130pds one.
Ok, thank you so much!
Your best OTA for planetary is really a Newt/Dob. I've also learned that if you're purchasing a Newt in a kit, most of the time you'll be getting a pretty decent OTA that's coupled with a mount that just barely meets the specs to hold what it's holding. Source: bought one. The good news is that those kits are usually inexpensive enough that you can always update the mount.
Unless, like me, you sold your house to get the setup and didn't realize until later that a better mount would have been more appropriate and funds are spoken for to the point that not a lot can be set aside for the mount.
You didn’t actually sell your house right
Do I need filters to capture clouds on Venus, is yes which one?
Well ... there's a story.
Shortly after looking at things through an Amazon econo-scope (Gskyer 70mm) and realizing that I saw Mars one night and all it resolved as was a little red dot, I decided/knew I wanted something more suitable where I could actually see smaller stuff.
Shopped around, stumbled on telescope.com, found the Orion Skyview Pro 8 - 8" Newt on EQ5. About $700. An amount that was not in my back pocket. Wife and I were planning on selling the house soon anyway, so we had a discussion about use of proceeds, and agreed that I'd wait until the house was sold and use a few hundred to get the telescope.
Shortly after, as in "less than a year later" the house was sold and I used some of the money to get the telescope.
Given that I didn't have the funds at the time and it took the sale of the house to get them, I joke that I had to sell my house to buy it.
Now I'm seeing what is being done with a 16" dob and it's stuff that I'd like to be able to do. It wouldn't be practical to lug out the dob, though so I'd also need an observatory setup.
Time to sell the house again I think.
My first ever composition image, the Moon and Venus from last night. Two individual images, both shot with my iPhone 12 and Orion StarBlast dob using a stock 10mm eyepiece.
Stacked the best frames from a two minute video of Venus, and a 20 second video of the moon. Stitched together in post.
Unfortunately there were some trees in the way of the moon, but I couldn't possibly let this moment go to waste.
This is pic I took was taken on the 19th
This one has more black spots
What’s better for planetary?
Celestron c6
Or
Skywatcher skymax 150mm maksutov
both are so close in aperture (like within 3mm close). Maks are pretty much solely for planetary while SCTs can be hybrids. I'd do the C6 just for the flexibility
Worst case if you aren't zoomed in enough (i know everyone hates that term) you can buy a 2x or a 3x magnifier. 4x and above is on the edge of usability at 6 inches
and with the C6 being 200$ cheaper at the same aperture, I don't see a reason why
Ok thank you!
Anyone know how to find the software to track the ISS?
Decided to revisit some old data of Uranus and process it again (top)
Which one is done better?
I think the top one is more color accurate, and it appears to be slightly sharper than the previous process
not bad btw
we need tom 
Yeah
No
Ok
No
Top 👍
Bro sees every darkish spot as an impact 
I’m really new to planetary so idk shit
Well, that's insane for being really new
I only first looked at Uranus through my telescope a few months ago. After being in the hobby for over a year now
literally been in hobby for 4 years and still i havent even found uranus 😭
Guys did I capture an impact perfectly centred above the GRS?
In fairness shoemaker-levy-9 impact scars were dark, but yeah. No
where even is the moon in this image
Mmm very cool awesome sensational double bright and dark impact indeed
No
I want to capture venusian clouds with my mak 127/1500 + neptune 664c and i have some questions
should i use RAW8 or RAW16?
should i use only a W47 filter or W47 + Uv/Ir cut?
Should i use a 2x barlow or should i stay at 1500mm fl for this target
thanks
Raw8 is fine, use the w47 with a UV/IR Cut, but use one that passes at least at little bit into NUV (lower than 400nm), or you'll just be imaging in blue with low transmission
For the Barlow you should do some experimenting yourself, technically in UV the best sampling is with a higher f ratio but due to low transmission that is easier said than done and also your Barlow may have bad UV transmission
I already tried with the barlow but there were some artefacts due to thermal stabilisation so cant really tell
i think ill try without a barlow
im using an svbony uv ir cut
can sm1 process this for me pls :3
Better than nothing
3” refractor Manuel mars
Lucas, could you try that on mine?
Any of the frames from the animation would be fine
it's not that bad for untracked and a phone right? (6" F8 dob, Samsung A53)
I vote not bad at all
Did you process?
not the best process but yeah I did
it's really hard to process phonw images since the quality is so low
the stacked one or the video?
Video
my goodness is this with your 114mm??
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nwGQsCGCtn_VtkctMt4nGbDDmo_pSsnm/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o6B-pzOoL5N519Ht2EWX6H23TuanyjlZ/view?usp=drivesdk
I have 2 videow with different settings if you want to give them a shot, tag me when you get it done
Bet
Hmmm.
Well, I don't know about you, but this is testing my skills.
haha i just got home from the gym, im going to try now
The color channels seem to be identical. No bueno on this end. 😦
haha ill try
@craggy wasp does your specific phone use AI to fill in gaps when recording?
No from what I know
Alright
I'm honestly impressed I got this picture from that low quality video ngl.
I spend 3 hours trying to do it lol
Oh boy I got a treat for you
hm?
jealous from the fact that I managed to get that result?
its really good tbh
1 moment bro
Yes
I’m making it better though
that's good, I suck at procesing tho
I can get it smoothed out. The colors on the other hand are borked ... and I do mean BORKED for me. It doesn't help that the color channels are completely identical.
lol.
the struggles of not having a camera.
shoukdnt be
I'm saving for a good cheap one that can be bought here in Chile tho, I have bad experiences buying outside the country
Yes, well, there's "shouldn't" and then evidently there's me.
Ima finna make you happy
Actually idk if this is much better tbh
its good
This could be just me but im 95% sure there is a tiny sliver of solar eclipse left on the bottom right of jupiter @white prawn
Moon eclipse, and yes definitely.
I mean it’s the same thing
It’s not a lunar eclipse
I may have confused myself.
Anyhow, yes, there is a moon shadow on Jupiter, right on the edge.
I actually noticed that when I started working with the wavelets.
@craggy wasp posted a few
haha yeah, pretty cool
hell yeah ty
this ones my fav tbh
yeah in the original you can see the moon eclipse too
No. That´s @ruby tartan data 
This is as far as I got before the colors defeated me. But hey, I got the wavelets set.
yeah you can see the eclipse there too
I don't know. All the channels set themselves the same. #1019937457095065731 message
very strange
i used pipp, auto, and regi
i havent tried the 2nd video only the first
same, no issues
I haven't tried it with that one
i will too
if yoy're going to do it tag me, I'm playing persona 3 rn lol
Same, same, and AstroSurface. But wouldn't have made the difference since how it pulled the channels.
This is what I can normally do with a single image.
https://discord.com/channels/794642864218439681/1328963604455620711
is that your data?
Yep
8" F5 Newt. (Rio)
I bought that gear for getting into planetary AP before I really knew what I was doing. End result is that I bought a kit that consisted of an EQ5 and 8" telescope
to see how much detail you can get without grain
thats awesome
Do you have the raw stack?
i do 1 min
ill have to stack it again rq
@white prawn 1st is raw, 2nd is raw sharpened in autostakkert
There's ... a lot of blue in your image.
Yeah, that's a bright blue bit. Working on things.
Realistically this one ... is likely over-done. I'm not pulling a lot of detail out when I don't overdo wavelets or sharpening. I know that seeing can do a number on what you can potentially get, and I know that if I asked my 72mm refractor to image Jupiter well, it wouldn't come out anything close to what I can get with my 8". (And I want to try with a 4", go figure)
I'm going to wrap up a little more ... just honestly I couldn't pull much. 🤷
4"?
newt?
Its all good my man! I'm just open to everything
Yep! I bought a Nexstar 130SLT from someone at work who was cleaning up their stuff. Paid $80. Haven't had a single night that I could set it up
oh i see
great
Heh, banking
cool man, wish i had friends that did this
everyone at work thought jupiter was mars
💀
thanks man
💀
i did a process hows it? saturation seems a bit much, rest looks okay...
thx
astro zach can you edit my data pls xD
I’ll try, send raw file
Video of you can, if not just the stack
the video is 17gb big 🙏
nah 1%
How many frames did you do?
3000 ish
1% is way too low
oke
quite bad
@main flume ?
this is the best i could do
Can I have the raw file fresh from stack
Bet
here :3
Thanks
Why is regustax so slow I don’t understand
It’s taking for ever for anything to load
Bruh
The photo is very blue
yip
Do I need an ADC if I'm imagining mono?
And is CA on barlows that a big of deal in that case?
Yes
did you ever finish it?
I won't go as far to say ADC is required for mono but is highly desirable, especially with larger aperture telescopes. The easiest way to adjust them is with a cheap #47 violet filter which passes violet and near-IR light.
No ADC vs ADC with blue filter.
Would anyone care to process my planets excluding mercury?
I have attached these files for those who are curious
tyty i'm sure i'm at the limits of a 6 inch at this point (though neptune could some improvement)
for 6 incher this is incredible good job!!!
seriously craving more aperture now...
same
yeah but now im starting to think its getting more atmosphere dependent
Thru a 114/900 scope and webcam is it good?
we imaged the same region on mars 
man ive improved a lot
righttttt
i think saturn was taken in the best images i could get
condition*
yeah def
Had work, will rn
idk though this crave is killing me
I’ll try it too Kenneth
thanks always nice to have another perspective on the data
whoops
are u barlowed?
nontheless your images look pretty great
That’s I saw
Thanks
Wdym
are you using a Barlow lens
No
I use a 3” refractor with a manual mount
@summer pebble idk how this is with ur data but
maybe too bright
wait
looking pretty good, but you can definitely sharpen that up more
sure but you don't want grain either
ehhh we all have our own philosophy for this
one man's trash is another man's treasure
idk which is better
i am seeing some tiny artifacts here though...
That will happen when you sharpen too much
try this one
its less sharp
ill try ur mars now
edge rind is crazy fyi
one of the many reasons i crave higher aperture...
haha yes
ill show you mine with a 3 inch manuall refractor
thoughts? @left spindle
Great but whats that bubble kind of stuff around mars?
i'll say your processing skills are likely better than mine!
really?
mhm mhm
the edge rind is less obvious in yours compared to mine
it alwaysss irritates me to see that
hmmmmmmm
it is a bit awkward when the rings are on the planet
or differenct exposure just with moons
yep!
didnt even know they were there
ahhh
i was really surprised when i saw mimas was there
distinguishing the atmospheric detail is already good in my book
Is the channel bleed on mono good enough it’s not needed as much?
Because in my head osc with adc and mono should be pretty similar.
This was my collection with my 6” dob, I have a 12” now and still haven’t been able to beat this Jupiter shot 
Had some cracked seeing in ‘23
You’ve got some great shots there btw
Looking awesome
Seems like I have a tiny bit of improvement to go
There is little channel bleed but still slight dispersion within the bandpass of individual filters.
Ok so a osc image with channel alignment and a mono image without adc should be similar i guess?
Only difference being channel bleed?
An OSC channel will be much more affected by dispersion. I've seen double images in blue channels with my old ASI462MC without an ADC since it was still quite sensitive as it crossed into near-IR from red. My ASI290MM images were subtly fuzzy but not unusable.
This was especially strong with Mars where you could still make out surface features visible in red light in both green and blue channels.
okii :3
this is incredible
thanks man
@summer pebble you got 3 moons
neptune
Oh wow, the difference in sharpness is very clear
hey ethan, with a 3.15" Refractor Manuel tracking, 900ml FL, and F/11 be able to see between saturns rings with a 2x barlow and perfect seeing??
Really?? Oh wow I didn’t realize I used a different exposure to get Them
very very faint
….where exactly are they again? I only see 1
top right, and bottom right
nah can't find them
match it with this and maybe i can find them
your edit is much better than mine haha
eh takes a bit of experimenting
whats your focal length?
3000mm after using a 2x barlow
damn thats why
thats neptune correct
My fl with a 2x is 1800
i can see a tiny slightly bigger than star dot
but i cant track haha
is yours manuel?
nah i use a celestron nexstar, so it can track
ahhhh sounds great
big upgrade from my 3" celestron 80AZ
😭
This mf
This is what I call, an inexperienced buy
Good heavens
Best i can get tbh
saturn could be better but thats from like 2 weeks ago
i got my telescope for christmas so
is this real?
Geez did a 3 inch refractor that is amazing
This was the best I could get for a cheap one
Yeah?
Dang haha
As in through the Cassini Gap in the rings? Definitely not at this time with the rings so narrow. They need to be open wide to see it. In 2015 my 3.5" telescope and 1250mm FL could do it around most of the ring.
what u got :3
Damnnn I wish bro
@main flume
Got it
also you never did edit my planetary data
Ik bro sorry
I will
Keep getting busy
I edited it halfway last night and then distracted
is this with a barlow? if so which one
Awesome! Did you use an eq platform or did you do it the harder way?
I'm wondering what you mean by "harder way". Alt-Az? Just tripod? No tripod, mount, hold the OTA himself?
"harder way" as in just the dob mount without any tracking.
TBH I don't know why I didn't consider that.
Though I was trying to be funny with the "hold OTA yourself while imaging" mental picture.
Thanks! These were with a totally manual dob, I have an equatorial platform now for my 12” dob
white circle D:
you got some glow from the uniluminated side too, awesome!
The nightside? That is not possible without a specific filter
Centred on 1010nm
Any glow you see on the nightside will be glare from the dayside and such
wait then why does it show up when you completely blow out the entire image
like you can see the rest of it
Not sure tbh but it won't be the nightside and also that larger circle around the planet raises some questions for me too
Not only the circle shaped noise on the nightside of the planet
Just a artifact from possessing
mf i was joking 😭
Due to. Less then optimal colimation I had some rings. So I cut Venus out and pasted it in a different location in the img
And that large circle was just a clone stamp to remove the junk left behind
I suspected something like that yeah
In case you want to get rid of the noise you can decrease the offset by 1 or a few in Photoshop
i used to have this prob, switched to astrosurface
how do i use it
one sec
ill send screenshots
select the region
after analysis click graph s
field rotation ruinedd the stack
how can i fix it
ye
i see then it will be a real pain to correct it
bruh
and then?
wouldnt i just have lotss of pics?
yeah but you would have lot of small stacked pics
rather than unstacked noisy pic
bruh
isnt there any app that fixes it
trying rotation rn
tbh idk
doest stacking also make a sharper image?/
winjupos could.. but i dont know abt moon
ye
try deepskyrotation
it worked for me
@low tendon
ok
im also untracked so it moves quite a bit
same
still it would work
as it did in mine
ok
wheres that?
cann u pls send a screenshot?
thx
np
does your loading bar get stuck under the word align?
Only once
how long does iit get stuck there?
Forever (i was too impatient so i canceled it)
i thought u said it worked?
Ar u talking abt astrosurface?
Ot worked with thaat
Was talking abt autostakkert
bruh yhh
Worked, if it dosent, check your frames by exporting your frames using pipp
Generally some naughty frame causes this
that video im stacking is a bunch of videos joined with pipp
I see
there like 15 messed up ones
pippdidnt remove them
Oh that couls be it
Oh
For the shacky frames while capturing i pause it and wait for it to stablise then i resume it (in sharpcap)
no it a couple ones that are bugged
like half black
That has to be the issue
ok how do i deal with them
Stack the seprate video files,(without rotation) and check which one causes error
Like gettinf stuck
Put those in pipp and export to tiff, remove the waste
all of them i think, when im ttakingf the video annd the ccapture ends it buffers and the last frame is out of frame
Oh
Then you will have to export to tiff and seprate the issue causiing frame
Or , choose quality estimator based on brightness of frames and then sprate the last frames after ezporting
how do i change that, sry for all the questions im new to planetary
I gtg sryyy ill come back in abt 30mins (mum calling for food)
ok cya
where is options
quality options, under that,( stuff like enable Quality estimator, Reorder frames, ans Total Brightness Algorithm
in pipp
ohhhhh
i caant open the combined vid
hmmmm
wdym?
if data is small, i could handle half of it
iit says error: avi codecot known by astrosurface, use pipp for conversion
oh then convert using pipp
i already used pipp to combine them
put the input in pipp and simply hit start processing
Can u help me?
nvm i solved the problem
NVM I DIDNT
I REMOVED BAD FRAMES BUT PROBLEM STILL HERE, IT GOT STUUCK ANNNALYZING AT 8%
AND I CANT CANCEL IT
SO I HAVE TO CLOSE THE WINDOW AND ALL THE WORK SEPERATING THE BAD FRAMES FROM THE GOOD WILL BE LOST
WTFFFFFFFFFFFFFF
SOMEONE HELP
Have you tried a clean install of Autostakkert
i will tmrw but then ima have to sepparate all bad frames aagain
that took 1 hour
i stacked a 10 sec vid, (25% stack)
this process is terrible tho
heres the data if someone wants to play around with it (it needs rgb align cuz colours aare off)
or rgb misaligning 
There’s PIPP and AS! itself that can do frame sorting by quality Idk why you’re doing it manually?
they like the pain of Manual labour
ineed the actual not the conv one
Some frames are bugged and out of frame but still same sharpness so autostacker doesn’t reject them
And when I set pipp to grade them based on brightness the file could be opened by neither autostacker or Astrosurface and it just says that I need to convert them with pipp eventhough I used pipp to grade them
I’m so confused
same thing happening with OP_Nick(ares c pro and dob ap)
can you give me a piece of the data, wanna try to solve it myself
@livid sierra @low tendon @woeful obsidian @left spindle What do you make of this? Focus, collimation, or seeing? Or "yes" to the above? That's after some heavy wavelet effect.
I'm wondering if I should ask for the original data set somehow but it's a 35 GB video file.
Could either be onion skining or a low number of frames stacked. The best solution us to dering it with wavesharp 2
Onion skining ia when the exposure of the frames you take is low but that ahoulsnt be a problem since u are uaing a planetary cam
yes thats me bruh
just dif accounts
all op nick accs are minne
just did, saame thing
Lol
stuck at8%
That's someone else's data, not mine.
Also I've tried wavesharp, it's trash.
Oh
Why is wavesharp trash?
Try clean install of windows
I've tried it, and it's more U... WTF rather than UI.
Oh
Couldn't get it to do anything
You sharpen
Drag wavelets slider to the right, increase sharpen amount
It’s that simple
I can give it another go. I like AstroSurface though. 🤷
Yeah I don’t see any reason to switch to Wavesharp
Dosent have deringing
Only reason I can see is the derind tool, but literally what it does is blend with the unsharpened stack I’m pretty sure. I can do that much and better myself in PS
I think there may be times that I find it handy. Like I've moved most of my processing to AutoStakkert w/o bothering to use PIPP to extract frames because I'm imaging in ser mode anyway.
Just another tool, basically.
Registax has that as well. I don't know how to do it in Gimp so it works out when I screw up the exposure on my lunar shots.
Honestly not sure what that means lol
am i doing anything wrong? when i turn of stabilatation it doesnt get stuck which leads me to believe its those pesky frames but even when i removed them yesterday it still got stuck at 8%
Install more RAM
Truly wierd
i dont have enough ram? i have 16gigs
Have you tried other datasets with the same cam?
yes only this moon data having issues
When AS is running, just all by itself, how is the CPU and RAM usage? Also, what about the drive that it's on?

wdym the drive its on?
Ssd or hdd
???
Autostakkert on the same drive as the data
Is your cam mono?
What drive is the data on, is it solid state (SSD) or hard drive (HDD), and when it's processing the system may use the drive, how much is the drive being used
SolidStateDrive or HardDiskDrive
no
