#Planetary Imaging
1 messages · Page 27 of 1
Over engineered lmao
Ye
Maybe for huuuge mirrors but otherwise I don't see the point
What is better as a plixel size for planetary imaging: 2.9um or 2um?
same equipment?
It’s slowly evolved over time
The 2023 one was a different scope
They all used the same dslr. Up until 7/30/2024
Wich is when I changed to a planatary camera
Other then 2023 they all use the same scope tho
I think it depends on your fl
I imagine smaller pixels are better as you would need a smaller fl to be properly sampled? Don’t quote me on it tho.
Really depends on your focal ratio. Pixel size isn't actually import by itself, you need proper sampling which take into account both pixel size and focal length
You can change your barlow's power anyways so I would focus more on the other caracteristics of the camera (read noise, sensitivity, ddr3 buffer?/speed)
Lucky image
Saturn from 19/08
114/900mm newtonian + sv905c with Celestron omni 2x
That’s crazy with that aperture
Can even see cassini's division which is pretty impressive due to the current tilt of the rings.
Saturn with Titan on August 17
From my 8 inch dob with my phone to the eyepiece. Didn't use my dedicated cam cause lazy.
I challenged myself to capture Titan passing in front of Saturn this night, and I accomplished it. 
What do you guys think of the playerone Mars-C II for planetary?
Been looking for an upgrade from my zwo asi120mc-s
I like the smaller pixel size and lower read noise
Smaller pixel size so I can use a 2x Barlow and get the same or better resolution as my asi120mc-s with a 3x Barlow
I'd just save up for the uranus c. It's cooled (without the optional cooling unit) and it'll last you longer as your main
does it really help noise that much?
It depends on the ambient temperature
But it also has a higher resolution than the Mars c II
And the sensor is double the size so better for dso if you're looking into that
nah mostly planertary, id be doing stuff mostly in NYC so deep sky is kinda limited lol
Ah
I might DIY a motorized mount for my small 70mm celestron refractor scope to try some stuff though, would I physically be able to do that with a mars c ii?
the uranus c is out of my budget unfortunetly
Yea, the Mars c can take long exposures
ok
I was also looking at the neptune C II?
its more zoomed out with the same pixel size which is nice, I usually have the problem of being too zoomed in on my orion xt8
Yea that one's better
I have the Neptune-c ii, i hand track ~6200mm at the moment and it’s pretty difficult but doable once you get used to it. I am starting to build an equatorial platform though which will make life 100000% easier if I do it right
I cannot fathom how you all hand track images
But it's probably because I don't have the knobs on my slow motion controls
No pain no gain 
Slow motion controls sound really nice, wish dobs had that sorta thing
I hand track at 3600mm on my asi120mc-s so I have experience with that lol
They do. How steady are your hands.
Saturn 450mm focal legnth no barlow
😔
It's so small in my fov I almost mistook the picture for a dark frame
Because most of its black and it's just this tiny little thing
My fov
neptune
Io and its shadow transiting Jupiter! Best 20% of 20k frames, stacked and processed using Astrosurface and PS.
Is my scope collimated?
Idk if it’s out of collimation or the secondary just has an offset
Looks about right to me
Looks about right except maybe for a slight offset of secondary relative to the focuser maybe? Nothing major really
To precisely collimate the primary, star test is necessary in my experience tho
How do I do that
Point at a star and unfocus the scope so u can see the pattern
Star needs to be in the middle
y didnt u ping me?
(that message was sent like 3 months before i joined the server
)
this one isn't as bright as the other, so the colors look more pronounced, and the Cassini division is subtly more visible in this one too I think
just my personal opinion though
you go with what you think looks best!
imo rings are better in 2nd but saturn is better in 1st
@low tendon
Thats old
The OG crew
why does my fire capture look wrong
how do I get that nice look if you know what I mean
3600 gain 
Apart from turning off gamma, the autoalign, cropping, and auto re-centering features are very useful
Also. What camera are you using, is it really only 300x300?
Looks like dummycam
It’s the dummy cam, not my settings
I reinstalled the software and wanted to configure it
GIVE THIS MAN NERD
Fr
That's what I am saying brk
He is pumping out some insane images
bro i started planatary like last month I ain’t that good😭
It's still really good bro
Eh, I disagree. Those are not bad shots in the least. And I think your OTA is better collimated than mine was when I started planetary with my 8" and DSLR.
I just use a diy eyepiece to collimate
Don't need anything fancy. Just a collimation eyepiece/ cheshire cap. Look through the little hole and make sure that you've got a good donut, boom.
Is saturn at opposition today?
Untracked?
yeah
What’s ur setup
Nice
If I collect a 3min+ video on Saturn untracked do I need to derotate?
probs
For 3 min no
At how much data should you do it then?
60s I’d say
Derotating comes in play when you’re integrating multiple videos of say 2 minutes
You create stacks of every video and then take the stacks through WinJupos to create a derotated stack
Ohhhh, my bad, I thought he was talking about how long a single capture should be
Oh I wish my single capture could be that long lol
i get like 3 minuts per vid
I get like 10-20sec and it goes out of frame and I have to pause and recenter
I get like 7 seconds, but I get like 10k frames per single capture
Takes a few minutes
Iirc my camera isn’t very fast with the fps
Should I decrease my ROI to get better fps?
If you can, yes
What camera do you use?
Touptek imx290
I don’t remember the model name off the top of my head
Ah yeah looks like a usb 2 camera
You have my condolences
Small roi will boost fps but being untracked makes that not super helpful
Maybe you could enable the roi as it passes through and then disable to re center? Idk
How bad is that?
I used one for a bit, had a 23fps cap at max resolution
I assume yours is similar
Yeah wayyy faster
Definitely worth the investment if you have the extra money
My Neptune-c ii can do about 90 fps at max resolution
How much was it?
I think I paid like 200 bucks for it? Was on sale
I’ve thought about a new camera but I’m worried I won’t reach focus or something, cuz my current cam is like sitting really far out
And that’s with an extendor
What scope do you use?
Heritage 130p it’s a helical focuser
Ah yeah the sale is still going looks like https://player-one-astronomy.com/product/neptune-c-ii-usb3-0-color-camera-imx464/
I would assume it’s similar but I’m not sure what to check
Also I would make sure your laptop has usb-3 support before buying anything
Is that cam good for dso aswell?
Well you could get some of the brighter ones and small planetary nebulae
You’re still untracked after all
I don’t see any blue in my ports
Aw mann
Big rip
For making an existing USB2 to USB3? I don't think you can force the port to move faster than its design. That trail goes all the way to the CPU
Unless you're talking adapter for USB-C to USB-A
Yeah you right idk what I was thinking here
Man why tf is reaching focus with the Barlow so hard
Was bored and put together all I have experienced regarding seeing conditions and how to best 'predict' when they might be good. Just a draft so might have mistakes.
Tom, I love you for this piece of info, it helped a ton
Thank you so much for this!
Never thought I would get a geography lesson 10 at night. Very interesting stuff that all makes sense now. Tysm.
More like a meteorology lesson tbh but np
True true that’s the better word mb
Is the core of the jetstream the central part of the “stream”?
Also never knew how detrimental wind is.
yeah, the highest wind speeds
I also suppose the more east u are on the uk with a Westerly wind the worst the seeing cause of terrain messing with the wind direction in the lower atmosphere?
Sure, western coasts (i.e where the laminar flow arrives first) will have better seeing, ignoring other factors.
But the UK is quite flat in places, so there are still some areas (namely the SE near Dover) that might be mostly unaffected by a straight westerly.
But yeah, you're right.
One of the reasons Barbados has such good seeing is due to the trade winds in the lower atmosphere. The eastern coast of the island permanently experiences a laminar flow from the ocean.
So basicly I’m screwed
I’ve on the east cost. Directly where that jet stream blasts
24/7
I think where the jet stream core is the better due to faster winds?
And Australia has a ton of desert in the middle so maybe that doesn’t affect the wind direction as much?
Also, with the Windy (very useful and interesting website thanks) Soundings graph, if there are fast wind speeds at altitudes where the temperature gradient is close to vertical, would that not degrade the seeing as the mixing off air will all be the same temp?
like here for instance
To an extent, but you’ve also got some wind shear from 5-9km
Zwo 585mc or Zwo 678mc for planetary imaging and also for some deep sky imaging
I have a 12” Dobson with a 2.5x barlow
The 585mc has 2.9um pixels
The 678 has 2um pixels
Nice
why is there this pattern in on the moon when i zoom in lots
Debayer? Idk
Looks lay debayer
Do I need to do something in pipp for it?
yes
Clean
I need me a 16"
whats a really good budget planetary cam?
i currently have a touptek imx290 and im thinking about an upgrade
i dont have a usb 3 port on my laptop, is that fine?
If you use a small enough ROI you should still have enough bandwidth for higher framerate.
Eg LMC could get 132fps with a 680x480 roi on a similar cam using a usb2 port: #🤓-ask-a-nerd message
ah ok so at least it would work well enough
there is no way to convert a usb 2 to 3 right?
Untracked roi is cursed
I'll be tracked soon
Firecapture has a feature to move the ROI with the planet that should make untracked easier, if you get stuck with it for some reason.
https://skyinspector.co.uk/firecapture-features-explainer/#ROI_Position4
If you have some thunderbold port you could get usb 3(but I have no idea what laptop would only have usb 2 and thunderbolt).
There might be some wacky way to get a PCIE port from a wifi adaptor then plug a usb 3 expansion board into it, but it depends on your laptop and how much tinkering you want to do.
my laptop isnt even that old but unfortunately it doesn't have usb 3 but has a usb c port
that should be usb 3 at least?
What model?
all your ports are USB 3 or better, https://support.hp.com/us-en/product/product-specs/hp-envy-laptop-pc-14-eb1000/model/2100800519?sku=5B9R6EA
USB has a very VERY confusing and duplicate naming scheme SuperSpeed is USB3.
Find full product specifications and compatibility information for your HP ENVY Laptop 14-eb1003nx (5B9R6EA)
oh great lol
im so used to desktops that i thought if it wasnt blue it wasnt usb 3
Does this boost fps? From what I understand it just records the box but keeps the full frame size. Immensely helpful for lowering file size but in my experience it maintained my camera’s max resolution fps
Oh wait you aren’t talking about the cutout feature oops
It has the frame rate of whatever ROI you are using.
I make the ROI as big as possible without compromising frame rate and use cutout to limit file size.
@glad nexus you get the zenith iss pass tonight?
Saturn's ring spokes and moons timelapse
When recording Jupiter should I have my gain or exposure higher or do I have the right brightness in the video?
Go off the histogram (I personally like to shoot at 60-70% histogram), but also do not overexpose/underexpose. This will take some attempts to work out but typically you want to have a minmal exposure (maybe 10-15ms for Jupiter) and then work the gain out from there to get your histogram at the needed level)
Does that go for Saturn aswell? The 10-15ms bit
Yes, but this is all very heavily dependent on focal length and seeing as well
And aperture for that matter
If you have perfect seeing you may be able to go up to 20ms even, but I think 15ms is good enough for Saturn in my case
If I’m imaging the moon is there an amount of frames I should go for or just shoot a 10 ish min video?
i think if you are doing full disk 1000 frames should be enough as brightness is high
Alright 👍
Terrible seeing from last night, tonight might be better
(ganymede is at the bottom)
Hey guys, this month marks my first year with Astro. Mostly DSO, lunar, and solar. However I’d like to try some planetary tonight with clear sky’s. Any tips? I can use my skywatcher 150 mak, 2x and 4x televue Powermates, and Uranus C.
First of all don't underestimate the importance of cooling, let the scope outside some time before imaging. Collimate using an eyecap then check the collimation with a star test (highest mag possible, defocus a TINY bit and watch for the circles that appear. They should be concentric, if they're not it's quite easy to collimate, just adjust the primary so that the star moves in the direction where there's an offset (might be one way or another, just try it out). If you're lucky (but it's probably not likely with a 6") you might see the airy rings when you focus, it's a good guide for perfect collimation altho you can have really good results without using it. I don't think the 4x barlow is adapter for your mak, 2x will give you a more appropriate sampling
For the exposure I'm usually at 10 ms for jupiter and 20ms for saturn but that depends on the seeing (perfect seeing=longer exposure), just dont go too low otherwise it will get quite noisy. Set the gain quite high while still letting a good marging before clipping
I'm not an expert but this should help a bit!
Thanks! I do leave the scopes in the garage outside so that should be good. My only worry is actually finding Jupiter. The go-to is always a bit off using NINA
I'm not a goto user so can't help with that 😆
How do you find it by hand? I’d get so frustrated lol
I get frustrated that's pretty much it lol
lol
Maybe I’ll put the 350mm scope on first to make sure I’m in view and then switch the scope on the mount
That’s what I’ve been doing for lunar
I feel that 
It’s even more painful from b8
I feel that. I’m in nyc.
I typically start with a wide view eyepiece to find it, then slap a barlow on, center it there, and then pop the camera in.
epic
But I don't have my equipment
not epic
Just saw this I was at work ☹️
Zenithstar 61 and 4x Powermate
Local astronomy club in the city had a big open Moon Party. A kind man let me stick my camera into his 10inch dob. This is the raw image.
I kinda wanna buy a large dob now, even though I know it would be a pain to transport. Maybe in some years.
Nice, what’s the camera?
Well, how about a Truss / Flex tube?
Yeah that could work. I would have to modify it a little bit to do solar tho.
i would be doing this rn if i had less focal length
I'm warming up. I hope to image Saturn in a little bit.
Last in a sequence of normal color. Next I'll do with IR Pass
i have a bad focal length
too much to find dsos with what i currently have and to do full lunar (i dont like doing surface details), and not enough to do planets
150/750 with imx585
... for planetary, is fine, though you'll want a Barlow lens to help
Right now I'm working with Evie, she has 420mm f/l. Rio has 1000mm and I'll be bringing her out after this.
Evie = SkyWatcher EvoStar 72ED. Rio = Orion 203/1000
Lunar can be a challenge at that f/l. Most it'll capture is half the moon.
At least with the 585.
i was thinking of buying a cheap 5x 3 element barlow, but im not sure
some are saying the barlow is the good choice, some are saying a smaller mak with more focal length with a weaker barlow is better
The cheap ones aren't worth it. I bought my 5x from Orion before they went out of business. I have a Celestron X-Cel LX 3x and it works fine. YOu might benefit from the same.
as of right now the only barlow i have is a really cheap svbony 2x
so something like this isnt good? https://www.astroshop.eu/barlow-lenses/bresser-barlow-lens-5x-1-25-/p,59429
its a 3 element 5x, just like the other ones i was looking at
and around the same price, a tiny bit more actually
this is the one i have right now https://www.svbony.com/HD-MC-1-25-Inch-All-Metal-2X-Barlow/
I'd trust astroshop to give you something worthwhile. Amazon sells "5x" for about $20-$50 ... they're NOT 5x. I paid $150 for mine, and the only other one at the time was a Televue for a bit more.
im not buying from like random companies ive never heard of tho
What I don't get is how they're getting you a 5x for that price. Like I said though, I would trust them since they're an astro shop. Bresser I think is a known brand.
Then again my 5x is a 4 element.
i dont notice any chromatic abberation when using this
this is what i was able to do with it tho
Not bad TBH
how long should i leave my scope out
id want a lot better though
as of right now, i have zero plans of spending the money on getting more than 6 inches of aperture
so if the newt is better than a smaller but slower mak, its going to be all i have for planets
so i do need to buy a barlow because im not really happy with that
First and second time ever doing sat tracking. Planned to catch Tiangong but also got a surprise appearance from the ACS3 solar sail.
@rugged knoll Understandable.
If more aperture is out of the question, the Newt will be the better deal. The mak has a larger obstruction for the secondary so it collects less light than a same-size Newt.
A 3x Barlow would introduce more focal length; that said, a 2x is not going to be bad. I wonder if you're being too heavy with the processing. I've seen @steep apex get better images of Jupiter than I was getting, with a smaller OTA than I have. I think that part of it was the camera (I was using a DSLR at the time), and part of it was the processing. Once I got the 585 I had to learn how to process the data that it gave me.
I already own the newt, I was thinking of either getting a barlow with more power than the 2x I have right now
or if I should get a smaller mak with more fl than the newt, but it seems a more powerful barlow is the better option
and yeah i suck at processing both dsos and planets
Like how a 585 forced you to learn to process better, once i get a stronger barlow that actually let's me see smaller details I'll have to learn better processing to get them
but also a important thing
I never get good seeing
By never I mean not once have i gotten excellent, above average is extremely rare, average is rare, and below average is what i almost always have
But I won't spend that much on whatever I do end up buying to fix this since I want to buy a eqm35 soon
Its a bit late but for as long as possible
Okay
no the sun can potentially damage the optics and cause heat fluctuations that can damage the camera sensor
i will only leave my scope uncovered until around 7 am
I normally setup in the night so i assumed everyone did 😭
I put mine back in the garage and under a cover after I'm done.
"Time for bed, Rio." Back into the box and a blanket on top
rio is the newt right?
8” f/5?
Do you have a talking rabbit aswell?
Yep
Not yet 😆
that’s exactly what i have and i’ve gotten decent images of planets and dsos
i’d suggest the gso 2.5x barlow for the planets it’s good on a budget
don't I need more than 2.5x tho
Do u guys focus throughout imaging session or just hope the focus remains?
As seeing plays with my mind if I’m in focus or not
Is this in direct sunlight or using a newt as a solar scope?
Yeah I adjust every few minutes tbh
i mean you could but 2.5x worked very well for me, it's totally up to you
im pretty sure a very high mag, cheap barlow will mess up the quality of your images so be careful
i just dont think 0.5x more magnification will get me what i want
i mean its cheap yeah but its a 3 element barlow from a trusted company
ah do you already have a 2x barlow?
yes
oh nice, hope it works out
oh yea then definitely don't get a 2.5x lmao that's my bad for not reading
its really cheap though, its the cheapest barlow svbony sells
i prob wont use it anymore after i get a 3 element tho
Barlow power is not fixed, you can extend a 2x barlow to 3x or more if you just place the camera or eyepiece further away from the barlow lens.
Just need some extension tube eg an empty barlow tube.
yea ik, i didnt see any 3 element barlows with less than 5x tho which is why im looking at thise
Just get the 2x or 3x X-Cel. Can't go wrong with that
it's double the price
Is there anything in your world that isn't solved with an extension tube? 😆
"Can't focus" => Extension tube (solved it, just so you know)
"More Barlow?" => Extension tube (legit ...)
"Table too short" => Extension tubes
"CW can't go far enough down" => you guessed it ...
Yes, anything software related can be solved with pipp.
If you have both you can solve anything
I've just discovered that I can run ser and avi files through AutoStakkert without having to run them through PIPP to remove the individual frames.
Yes, but you will also not be looking for upgrades every other month. So I think you'll be saving money in the long run
Also, guys, anyone who might have some insight, I'm kinda peeved.
#🤓-ask-a-nerd message
what's wrong with the 5x 3 element?
It's not a 5x 4 element
The celestron x-cels are also 3 elements
Either do @livid sierra suggestions of finding the ideal orientation based on the angle of your secondary. Or just rotate ADC so the bubble level is level. Start with the levers at the starting position, then slightly adjust both levers, one in one direction and vice versa but keep adjustments proportional. I typically never have to go above the third setting on my adc but that depends on the altitude of the planet you're shooting. For example Saturn gets near 40 degrees for me and I have both levers at the second setting.
I've done the level bubble -> lever adjustment thing and all I got was lost focus or color spread.
For me, it works best when levers are adjusted in opposite direction by the same amount
You either adjust too much, or too little. Or your adjustment isn't proportional
It is also possible that your focal length is way too high
Right, that's what I do. Seems like no matter what I do or how I plug it in, the ADC is like "F you"
Try using it for visual first, tinker with it until you think it's at the right position
F14.8 after the Barlow is in.
ADC also acts as spacer so your FL will be about x1.5 more
Also, do barlow -> ADC -> camera
Barlow first
Yep, that's what I did. Barlow > ADC > camera
1.5x more? Seems a bit much. My 3x looks near 4x with the ADC in. I mean, I have exactly one good image that was taken using the ADC.
Well. I guess all I can do is try again.
Meanwhile.
Is this overdone?
With my setup, native FL is 1200mm, with 3x 3600mm. Adding the ADC gets it to about 5400mm
Yes
Looks way too corrected. Fringing will be minimal if it is done correctly
Are you levers like vertical or something
You mean too much RGB correction?
Looks like your ADC correction is way too much. Even after the stacking rgb alignment is minimal
Here, check these out if you're interested. There is a zip file with my stacks the only rgb alignment was done during stacking AS!4. #1284285451632377978 message
Oh! No, I took the ADC out of my imaging train after losing an hour and a half of imaging time because of it. I'm about ready to yeet it somewhere. That's just AstroSurface White balance/RGB align.
To me, it looks like your image is either out of focus or just overcorrected either during imaging or in post
😕
Maybe try practicing the ADC with a bright star 30 - 50 degrees altitude. You should be able to get the star to have minimal fringing. Also, do you use a UV/IR cut filter when imaging in RGB @white prawn
I don't. Well I think the 585 has something on it, because the image is awfully red when I'm working with it. But none of my own filters. I fight enough w/ focus as it is. If I can't get a 16" OTA I might get myself a better focuser. The one I have just slams back down under the load of Barlow/ADC/Camera and even Barlow/Camera
The PO Uranus-C doesn't have an IR cut filter AFAIK. It has a clear AR glass. I'm not sure if your brand does but if it is awfully red then you definitely want to use an UV/IR cut filter. Such as this: https://www.highpointscientific.com/optolong-uv-ir-cut-astronomy-filter-1-25inch-mounted-uvir-125?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=OTL-UVIR-125&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20618277309&utm_content=&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrp-3BhDgARIsAEWJ6Sy-ctbjxI316aWGD2vt6bcTLIzCNoSYPVzDVWO10zV3onbWzFaLNuYaAuFOEALw_wcB.
As for your focuser, you should be able to tighten it with an Allen key or Philips at the bottom of the focuser
The Optolong 1. The increased resolution of 25" Cut Filter, which blocks Ultraviolet (300nm - 400nm) and Infrared (700nm - 1100nm) transmissions, keeping only visible light to have it pass through the filter, therefore, the image sharpness is enhanced. The Schott glass surface has been coated with ion-assisted deposition and is resistant to scra...
I can tighten it to hold the focus - just obtaining it is a pain in the arrears. I have to help it up if I need to focus in that direction.
I do have a UVIR filter, one of the first things I got. I'm using a ZWO ASI585 (my PFP). Wish I would have bought the Uranus-C but I was impatient getting an astro cam at the time.
The Uranus-C wasn't in stock and I would have had to wait at least a couple of more weeks.
Eh well.
I focus during my captures
little in-out just to check
i just noticed svbony sells 3 element 3x barlows for the same price as the 5x ones i was looking at, so the 3x is better right?
I was talking about tightening the focuser itself. Not the focuser locking screw.
It becomes tighter and isn't as loose when focusing
Oh
@somber stratus when It comes to Saturn moon occultation how would you shoot that
Wouldn’t the moon blur
That's what I wanna know
I’m trying to shoot it tonight
I might just make a hdr
I wanna try aswell
You live in the right area?
Yeah
Nice
Oh yeah wow
I might just try and do a video of it hiding
I’ll have to do it when it’s leaving
Oh shoot I just looked at stellarium and i was wrong 🫠
It's not going to be visible
I totally thought it was bruh
Oof
Basicly only southern hemisphere
Use the filter.. I think people have said before to use the filter for imaging, even when using an ADC. Also, check if your ADC is a lefty or a righty (if you have the ZWO one). It’s probably a righty but can’t hurt to check https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/578410-newbie-question-how-the-heck-do-i-use-the-zwo-adc/, read the message from John Boudreau.
I’d send you the forum post where we discussed the orientation of the ADC in the focuser but I’m realising now that the forum posts absolutely suck when it comes to looking for a specific post
Imaging rn, here is how my adc is set up although duifs approach may be best if you have time to figure it out.
And here is the Allen key screw for tightness of.the focuser (the one below the thumbscew for locking focuser)
Thank you. I admit I feel a little foolish to not know that; one of my tripods has something very similar on the gear that holds the legs at height and I've had to tighten them before. Not sure why I didn't think to look underneath and see if that was the issue.
I feel like having the UVIR on would make it harder for me to see if I have the ADC set right. Am I wrong?
Use the ADC tool in FC
Last time you said you didn’t use the UVIR cut I thought you meant just when adjusting the ADC
There’s no reason not to use the UVIR cut when imaging if you have it
And yeah like I said just use the ADC tool in FC. Skyinspector.co.uk has two articles about the ADC
No worries! I hope you get it sorted out
My new image of Saturn
7 images derotated
850 frames each
Ok seeing but with some bad moments
Niceee
I aint tried saturn yet
Only jupiter
I hope to go out this weekend and do saturn Jupiter and mars
I tried that once ... no dice. I got software up and the camera in and no matter what I did there was no change. I'm like, wtf. I've seen great screenshots of what the ADC tool is supposed to look like and how it's supposed to work but it never did that for me. All it ever did was show me the image and not really change anything.
I just don't think a 5x is worth it. It's too much power
I guess I technically shoot with 4.5x but that is with an ADC. I think just a 5x (no adc) will have so much fringing
What scope are you working with ?
Reason I was going to buy a 5x was because I didn't see any 3x 3 element barlows for cheap, but now that I saw svbony has one for the same price as the 5x I'll prob get that instead
virtuoso gti 150p dob, 150/750
The mount is SO bad, might as well be untracked
dw i will buy a eqm35 someday
Are you buying a barlow for imaging or for viewing
both
Okay, and what camera will you be using?
uranus c
Okay well in that case, your f ratio should be no more than 5-7x the pixel size of the camera for best sampling. You have an f/5 scope at native focal length, and with a 5x barlow you'll be at f/25 which is quite oversampled. Ideally, you want to be at between f/15 and f/21 with the Uranus-C unless you're dealing with literally perfect seeing. I don't think a 5x is worth it
Yea average seeing is rare for me, above average is very rare, and I've never gotten "excellent" seeing
It's almost always below average
A 3x would get you at f/15 which is a very good starting point. And in the future, you may invest in a adc to reduce fringing due to atmospheric dispersion, with the adc and 3x your f ratio would be about f/22.5. If you're saying you have bad seeing I would definitely stick with a 3x or even 2x (plus ADC)
I have a 2x rn
really cheap one tho
how much does a adc cost? never really looked at them
it's about the same price as an x-cel barlow/eyepiece
not that bad ig
I mean if you live near equator where planets basically rise vertically. It may not be needed
after I get a eqm35 and a lower fl refractor for widefield I probably won't be buying anything for a while
so I can get those things like the adc and a better focuser
rn 100% the worst thing I have is the horrible dob mount
I need one
Especially that you have a bad mount, a 5x will be a pain to deal with, every little breeze will make you lose the planet in the fov and probably cause more frustration for yuo
I'll be with this mount for a bit longer
Few months
Less than 6 months def
But I want to at least be able to do planetary while I can't do dsos, so yea I'll get the 3x
I think that's a good choice for the meantime
I really can't say. You can try it out for a bit and return it if you don't like it
Alr
Ig I'll do saturn with it since I don't want to wait until 2 for jupiter
Should be very easy to do better than what I have rn
fringing will still be an issue due to the altitude of the planets, which is why I recommend an ADC as well but it can be quite difficult to learn how to use correctly.
Adc will probably be after eqm35
and a new laptop or mini pc since the thing I am using to control my mount rn...
Ima to go sleep rn, ill prob buy the Barlow in a few days since rn I just have a bunch of clouds for a while
The barlow/adc stuff will help improve your images, but there is also a lot to learn about the camera such as finding a good balance between exposure and gain. I think for your setup with just the 2x barlow your image looks about how I would expect
What I mean is that your image looks good
I think my jupiter is a lot better
i dont
When I got the Uranus c i wanted to do better details with it
not a line as the ring of saturn
I don't think it's good but I think its better than the saturn
for exposure and gain i just adjust stuff until i have 200+ fps and it looks like a planet
In my opinion. You really don't need more than 100fps for both Jupiter and Saturn.
But anyways, just keep messing around with it and improvement will come
How decent of an image can you get out of a 5inch dob Or is it completely dependent on the seeing?
@summer field has some excellent photos that were taken with a 5 inch
Does having an adc change the focus distance or anything?
Do you need to tinker with it or just plop it in?
Yes, there is definitely some tinkering involved
Thinking of getting the ZWO one
Mostly adjusting orientation and messing with the corrections via levers but it is pretty straightforward
You can find some videos on YouTube
Does it mess with the color of stuff and requiring some filter?
Yea I’ll have a look
No, just a good old uv/ir cut filter
Dope
Neptune through some light pollution.
Caught the Moon occulting Neptune about an hour and a half ago. 80 frames stacked, which is 80 more than I was expecting to stack. 
Raw footage with some intense gain and gamma adjustments in SER Player.
Oh that’s cool
Is an adc essential for planetary and lunar even if your seeing is decent?
The adc helps focus different wavelengths of light at one point. So even if seeing is perfect the atmosphere will still disperse the light, and it gets worse the lower the planet is in the sky as light has to pass through more atmosphere. So basically, unless you're lucky and planets reach upwards of 70 degrees the adc is basically always useful
However, it is probably not necessary for mono, UV and IR imaging
Gotcha, looks like I’ll be adding it to my setup soon
Can anyone give me insight on why AutoStakkert clips/crops the edge of the moon? I was imgaging last night and kept the moon along the center of the view, and AS4 decided to put it right at the edge of the window and cut off part of it instead.
wait don’t you have a 6 inch dob? will the eqm35 be strong enough for it?
it only weighs 4kg, im planning on actually putting more than just the dob on it since the eqm35 can carry more
it's light bc flextube
i see, if you’re gonna do more dso imaging then a beefier mount is usually recommended but if it’s just planetary you should be fine
why do i need a beefier Mount
isn't 60% of the mount capacity reccomended for imaging
ill be under that by a decent amount
10kg capacity
Im only 40%
I will be doing dsos more than planets but if my scope is only 4kg I don't see how a eqm35 wouldn't be enough
I don't plan on buying a heavier scope in the future for dsos too
Can u give a screenshot, I might know the problem
tbh maybe just try astrosurface instead, i had so many issues with autostakkert until i switched to astrosurface
Try using surface stacking mode?
I use that for pre-processing before bringing it to Gimp, I haven't tried to stack with it.
i use it for everything since it had everything i need, autostakkert almost always would do something wrong when stacking but astrosurface has been fine so far
I know I kept it away from the edges on this run
try use surface image stabilization instead of planet
It works much better for the moon
Now what? 
Same q ... now what? 
Ye,
Analyze, place ap's and stack
Also, based on histogram your moon is overexposed
Well it shifted the image a bit but it didn't knock it out of the screen so I'll take a win.
I think you can shift+drag to adjust it
Cost of imaging during lunar eclipse and trying to get more moon than what should have been visible with the shadow going.
Or, in other words, whoops.
I might be able to fix it in post by adjusting exposure and I'll probably lose more moon for it but oh well. I'll figure it out.
F
This makes me incredibly upset. I don't know when the next partial lunar eclipse will be in my area so this really sucks.
I'm sure it'll be fine, its not too clipped but still best to avoid it
Obviously best to avoid. Don't like that it happened and fudged up an image
Saturn from last night with my new RC
I didn't use a barlow and I had a low framerate on my camera
can probably do better
White balance is/was off too
collimation is bad as well
Buy a reducer and ur good to go for DSOs...150/750 is not too big for DSOs with the right equipment...after all...size doesn't matter...
And 585 is probably a good start for imaging DSOs
@near quiver @mossy juniper
No, I don't have an LEO OTA ....
I think my el-cheapo lens might get a name. That and my DSLR picked up the partial lunar eclipse nuances better than Evie and my 585
Saturn looked so good tonight. I got some decent moon data aswell
I wanted you to know I just checked the settings on that image. Gain was set to 0 and exposure was 5.733ms. I couldn't get further down I don't think.
I wonder if I would get better results trying to do my lunar shots with a solar filter?
What focal length were you shooting at? Also, couldn't you just lower the exposure a bit?
I think even 0.5ms will be fine for moon
Was using my 72ED, so 420mm
I would say try lowering exposure more
Normally I'm not trying to capture lunar eclipse, heh.
Solar I go down to 0.032ms ... as low as it goes.
So. Solar filter for lunar imaging?
Oh! I tried dropping a "moon" filter in while I was doing this ... it's best used for visual because when I dropped it onto the imaging train it caused a lot of distortion that isn't visible to the naked eye but really, quite visible to the 585.
I think, same reason as you mentioned, having that additional filter will only cause distortion. I'm not sure if it's necessary
The solar filter doesn't add distortion. Lunar did. Great for visual, junk for photography.
Basically decrease exp next time. Okay, thanks!
The only cheap reducers I saw were 0.5x and I was told not to buy those
Naaaah don't...indeed reducers are not very cheap...but maybe if ur already committed to thr hobby...u have an eq mount...a big ass telescope and an imaging camera...it would be a bit awkward cheaping out on a part that u will definitely need in the future and it will certainly come very handy to u...if DSOs is your aim with ap...
Unless u could just buy a Barlow just like another guy said and go for planetary ap
Should be good as 7 x 1.45um is 10.45 which is roughly your focal ratio. Might even be slightly oversampled with those small pixels
Next March is a full lunar eclipse baby no worries
with planetary you try to have each pixel be a certain sampling(with the 7x formula thing mentioned above), both those sensors have the same resolution so at the same sampling they will have the same field of view.
Of course you do need more barlow to get to the same sampling with the larger pixels of the 585 compared to the 715.
And you do get more fov with no barlow which would be useful for conjunctions? but planets will be small in frame then.
Ngl when I had a dslr I stacked barlows and it worked quite well. However I would try extend the Barlow first.
Seems like my eclipse images can't be stacked well. I've tried Autostakkert 3 and 4.
Hey all, I want to improve the landing page of https://eise.app a bit, by adding a stacked+processed planetary image. I don't have good data myself, so could someone provide data for a nice stack or stack yourself using eise? I will also mention your name and link to your astrobin or insta etc. I will put it on the right of the page (see screenshot).
Easy (planetary) Image Stacker Engine, made to work in your browser. Turn your blurry videos of planets into sharp images. Perfect for beginners in Astrophotography. Using Planetary System Stacker under the hood.
I'm using the same scope for dso and planets, rn I have a goto dob that barely works but I'll be switching to a eqm35 soon, and i have a uranus c non pro, so I kinda have the cheapest setup for what I want
yeah it more than ok to kick off in astrophotography...although your camera is pretty decent for DSOs too...the lack of active cooling means that it wont perform as well as more expensive cameras with active cooling...but again that doenst mean that it wont server u well with DSOs...u could if u want...mod your uranus c and put a cooler on its back...a dude on this server called Lucas Goncalves he is an absolute legend he put a cooler on his phone and he takes some insane out of this world DSO images with his phone and a cheap Brazilian 114/900 newtonian...he is the hope for all of us dudes with cheaper setups...
but at the end its all up to u...whether ur more interested into DSOs or planetary
Yeah I will add cooling later
noice
More interested in dsos which is why I'm just getting a cheap 3 element barlow for planets
Rn the issue is my Mount is horrible so I can't find objects and my fov is too small for starhopping
plzzz dont cheap out on the barlow...but i guess 3 element should be enough...but plz dont cheap out on anything...in general...ik its very frustrating but i had made the mistake of buying a cheap barlow from Temu and it was pretty bad...chromatic abberation was AWFUL...and thats super important for ap
my current extremely cheap 2x has very hard to notice ca
truth is that eq35 is indeed not a great match for a 150 aperture telescope...especially for very close range videos just like u do in planetary ap
?? fr?
how?
why isn't it good
so...have u heard of the arcseconds?
I was told get the heq5 but that's out of my budget and even the eqm35 is overkill
4kg scope
?
did u tell them what u actually want?
yes
eq5 is minimum for your current situation...
u can ask others too...i think they will agree
Whats da topic
when i wanted to buy a 200 aperture CARBON FIBER scope everyone told me eq6 is minimum...which means for 150 eq5 is minimum
This

If u want the cheapest
Then don't buy
My personal advice
i have to agree with him...
And buy a good one
dont worry im broke too 😭
But I don't see what's wrong with the eqm35
Isn't it 11kg capacity
With a 4kg scope
dont look at it like that..
when ur scope is 4kg...u want to get a mount with at least 14kg weight
I was told not to go over half the capacity for dso but I'm not over half at all
what
for crystal clear images
and good arcseconds
thats what u need for planetary
its mandatory
at such a high mag
i don't expect to get good planets that's why I'm not spending much on the barlow
also its more suitable for DSO longer exposures and longer capture period
..
i never get good seeing, like ever
yeah great example
do u live in B9 area?
planets isn't the main focus
no
then seeing is great
?
unless...u have lots of clouds
what does bortle have to do with the atmosphere
most peoples' concern is light pollution
nothing I can do about that
I can't go to a lower bortle area
I'm in bortle 7 and that's all I get
its good enough
Same situation
Yes but what does bortle have to do with that
Let me explain
bortle is about the light pollution
not the atmosphere
let him cook
yes I know
you said if I'm not in bortle 9 then seeing is great
how does that make sense
its the atmosphere not the light pollution
Alright
That is what I'm saying
You replied with "no"
didnt consider the atmosphere because thats rarely a problem for me forgive me
And then he said "then seeing is great"
Yes
which doesn't make sense
because bortle and atmosphere is different
Basically what I'm saying is I don't want to spend much on planets since it's not my main interest
I care more about dso
yes but how much does a reducer worth getting cost
Oh
prices range around 200 euros
alr yeah im getting a new mount first thrn
maybe u can find a cheaper one...150-160
i still don't see what's wrong with a eqm35
it holds up to 11 kg of weight
and?
firstly...that doenst only include the tube
it also includes the other partds
AND
which is less than 1kg
u need some headroom for ideal arcseconds which are going to play a BIG role in your results
I just checked eqm35 and eq5, both are 10kg capacity
firsly...eqm35 and eq5 is just the TYPE of the mount...each mount has different properties
there are multiple types of mounts
i mean...skywatcher makes eq5 mounts...
the pro means it includes tracking
bresser makes eq5 mounts
ioptron makes eq35
and each one of those has different properties
usually comes at a higher cost which for me its not worth it...just buy an on step goto
usually it comes much cheaper
what's the difference bc i don't see multiple eqm35s or smth
these are mounts made by different companies...each one of them has its advantages and disadvantages
they are half the price of a eq5 pro
and eq5 pro is half the price of eq6 pro
thats how it goes...unfortunately...
mounts arent cheap...
ik its frustrating
but thats how things are...
u may change a telescope
but generally
u keep the mount for longer
its maybe even more important than the telescope
itself
I have no plan on upgrading past whatever mount I buy
u cant cheap out on the mount
I knos
Know
and I'm not
but what im not gonna do is buy a eq6 pro for a 4kg scope
lol yeah ok...we can agree on that
look dude...u can probably buy a new good eq5 mount for maybe 600 euros...650...maybe less...maybe more...i include the onstep goto too
but if u want...u can try out with the eqm35 first and then decide
maybe im completely wrong and upgrading to an eq5 wont do much even if it improves your arcseconds
idk the conditions ur imaging in
i dont know your processing skills
u can try with the eqm35 and if u are pleased with the results then keep it
but just for u to know...eq5 would probably be the ideal way to go...
from what i know
a eq5 is the same price and same capacity
how do i know the weight capacity of onstep
You get the appropriate model for you mount; it will support what the mount supports.
yea that makes sense idk why I thought it'd be less
What?
Very nice seeing a little bit ago between clouds.
Looks brilliant
With good seeing like this I’m thinking I should go past 10ms exposure to something higher to increase SNR?
do you guys ever use the drizzle function?
Nope
Nah
If you are using a big dslr then maybe but otherwise nuh uh
"between clouds"
If I image between clouds, I image soup.
Heck, if I don't have clouds I can't get that clear.
try astrosurface, i had those issues with autostakkert all the time and with astrosurface i dont have any issues
I had to tweak some settings but yeah, astrosurface nailed it. Thanks!
question for planerary use of dslrs: The max video resolution of my Canon is 1080x1920. The photo resolution is much higher though, so I guess that when filming a video only one every few pixels is recording. Is there a way, maybe using magic lantern, to have all the pixels in centre registering, sacrificing fov?
What is the use of that?
1.5x, 2x or 3x resolution
So whats its drawback?
you are not creating new data. the blurrines will remain the same
nvm fixed it
So a 2x drizzle will make a 2x2 patch of black into 4x4?
Yes basically
What I was trying to say is that it won't increase sharpness. Just resolution
it does improve resolution which can help for undersampled systems but it also introduces noise and artefacts
I use 1.5x since i'm undersampled when the seeing is good, but ideally you shouldn't have to use it
is this mercury?
No it's Uranus
I've seen it before and I can tell you it's not
It looks like a black and white image of Uranus though, like you can see the white cap
Like this (ignore Neptune on the right lol)
ARE THOSE YOUR IMAGES???, because those are great.
Oh absolutely not, those are Hubble images lol
You have great confidence in me, my 4.5 inch dobsonian, and my phone lol
Haha, for some reason I did not realise that was hubble.
Sorry that was lame 
Ye it is, it's just me being a silly little boy
such a silly little guy
finally something good with my dslr!
considering I'm using a 4.5" and a dslr I'm pretty satisfied
To the ones who take images of planets with a phone
Which app do you use to capture the videos?
Dude!! That's nice work for a DSLR!
ProCam x
This is my first image of Saturn. It turned out worse than I would have expected considering the seeing was perfect. Anyone have any tips on how to improve?
Don't expect a lot from the camera on a phone. That may be close to as good as what you can get with a camera phone.
Yooooooooo
Considering I did this without a barlow and with a narrowband filter, I would say this didnt turn out too bad 
what the heck do you even have to be able to do that? 
Can you do a movie crop with EOSmovieRec?
Getting sharper with Saturn. Still trying for the cassini division though.
114mm, dslr, 3x barlow, 20%/8000 stacked. Regular seeing
From the 15th btw
working on a mosaic of the moon from a few nights ago 
That's what I did
Minor unthreading incident this morning.
oh my
For lunar I just manually draw them. Like 20 big boxes
What do you draw them on
Just the craters?
I'm pretty sure ap size is just how big the boxes are in pixels. So you pick a higher ap for a higher resolution or bigger target
Then click "Place AP grid" after you select a reference frame. Then stack at the target percentage and drizzle if you need
i usually just selected any random ap size, wasnt sure what their purpose was
Is there any particular tutorial or workflow that anybody has followed for making moon mosaics that works well?
- process individual frames, stack, sharpen.
- put them into Microsoft ICE
3)done
From last week
Ethereal look
Microsoft Ice?
Yes
Gear?
photo of saturn with my phone and celestron starsense explorer dx
Hope there won't be too much clouds
ye it is very good and easy to use, literally drop all the images in a the software and it will align them for u.
oh no what have i done 💀
Holy moon 
it's yellow for some reason, probably an incorrect WB in camera firmware, or Sharpcap
just do AutoWB in Ps or Astrosurface
I will when i get there
I don't remember where Ina Crater is but I think it could have been resolved with this scope.
Took me a bit of digging but I found MS ICE 
well, here's my supermoon mosaic from the 20th taken by my 6" Ritchey Chretien, no barlow.
Really good details 👌
Use RGB Balance in registax
Jupiter timelapse from the 21st, sorry about the flickering
Meanwhile mine
Rough
honestly not bad considering your setup
If that was taken with what I think it was
how do yall do planetary timelapses?
Essentially just shoot 1-2 minute videos continuously for some time. It can be done by shooting like every 5 mins but with varying seeing conditions it's best to just shoot the whole time
Step 1: Take a series of images
Step 2: Process those images
Step 3: Follow steps in your preferred program to put the images back together in a single gif. Note that my experience with PIPP made gifs is that no matter what you do, the quality of the output is noticeably subpar compared to what gets fed into the gif-making function.
To be fair, I have experience with how I did mine. I wouldn't know how to work with editing a video the same way that one would work with an image, to get a decent result. Since @heavy mirage suggested it, I presume it can be done, I just do not have experience on the matter.
I guess I should have been a bit more detailed. I meant that you would shoot those 1-2 minute videos, then do the processing like stacking, wavelets and color adjustments. Then put the processed stacks into PIPP or Davinci Resolve and you have a time-lapse. So basically what you said
I need to revisit a Derotation/Rotation image that I did. I feel like it came out worse when I tried to do the white/RGB balance after I derotated vs. before.
Is this old or new?
old
Next year it should be great

i guess this pic is from april but not sure
it cant be
Like, imo the best angle
Hard disagree
i mean it means we get moon tranists
yoo
what scope did you use?
My now beloved RC6 
Saturn wasn't as good because I still had issues with it being too dim, but I'd say it's pretty good still
Nice
woahh niceee
this makes me wanna buy one even more in the future
what fl
1377 mm native, with 2x Barlow it was 2754.
I want a 3x Barlow to get even better results, though.
ah alright
well i only wanted the "barlowed" fl anyways
what exposure time per frame for both?
Was around 30 ms
captured this yesterday 1 hour and 3 min jupiter rotation
By about how much should I space my camera from the barlow to make it go from 3x to 4xish? I don't know the focal lenght of the barlow but an order of magnitude would be good so I can order the extension tubes
Hmmm if you measure distance from lens to sensor, then the effective focal length of an image taken at that distance I think you could figure out the barlows focal length. And then figure out the exact distance needed for any barlow power you want. https://www.astropix.com/html/astrophotography/astrophotography-calculators.html#eflbp
If its a popular barlow someone might have already measured it, I'll try this method to measure my 3x xcel to see if it actually works.
Calculators for Astrophotography
but as a pure guess, maybe 25mm of extra spacing?
Thanks! I forgot about this site, its great
Do you know from where the "barlow to sensor" distance is measured?
(the first lens of the barlow, the last one, the middle...)
I assume from roughly the middle, should be accurate enough.
jupiter this morning
why doesn't it align?
Did you stack it in auttostakkert?
Your capture may have a time where the planet is outside the fov, if you remove these bad frames (via PIPP or something) it should stack fine
Maybe you're using too small AP size as well if the above isn't the case
That always annoyed me ... I mean, isn't the program supposed to remove those?
Unfortunately nothing is perfect
But will it actually look like that given Jupiter is slightly oblate, which that simulation doesn’t show?
I guess we'll find out tonight
SkySafari
Ohh that could be why
Yep
better prossesed
it's not getting out of frame, but it's moving quite a bit. I've read that this could affect the result. Is this true?
As long as autostakkert is able to track it and keep it in center pf frame it should be fine
Make sure you are on planetary mode
I think i'm oversampling a bit
I agree, wouldn’t hurt to try a bit wider sampling
svbony sv213 is good right?
i dont have it myself however from what i can tell it should be good
That looks really good so far though, the details are crazy
I have 2 questions.
-
How in the world do you get that type of clarity before processing? What equip?
-
Why do I even bother?
I used a 254/1200mm GoTo Dob and Uranus-C cam. The perfect seeing conditions, good collimation and high altitude of the planet make the shot possible
Also, in that video I was shooting with X-Cel 3x,.2x and ADC. I guess that makes the focal length around 13000mm. However, this is way overkill with my setup, but I just wanted to see what would happen
Use diff planetary software. I got tiered of using autostakkert not stacking properply so i switched to astrosurface
Is it free?
Yes
Tycho. Crop from a mosaic of 30 panels of the entire moon
I made some adjustments to brightness and contrast
114/900mm Newt + Sv905c. 2x celestron omni barlow
Is it too bad if my max focal lenght is F10 (2μ pixels) and my scope is F12?
Where did you figure out the max focal ratio from?
The formula I use would give a 1.16x barlow(so F14) with that setup:
max barlow = 7 times pixel size in um divided by focal ratio
Isn't the limit the px size x 5?
7 is roughly the maximum afaik.
Ideally each pixel sees a distance that is 1/4th of the scopes dawes limit, eg ~0.15" for an 200mm aperture scope with a dawes limit of ~0.6"
5 is fine too, you won't always get good enough seeing for the maximum anyway
That's really helpful, thank you
just got this of jupiter and a few of its moons
I can have over 7x barlow damn
just cus u can dosnt mean u should
like 1000 reasons thats a bad idea
my 3x barlow is pushing it
sampling wise
im quite oversampled
@tiny topaz working pretty well. Not perfect but it’s staying in frame for over a minute rather than the 10s we get normally untracked
Extremely freeing
Dang I’ll really have to look into doing that now, thank you! Also is this Firecapture? If so how do you have a cutout grid around the planet, while also seeing the whole sensor? I usually select the recenter ROI option and it’s such a pain to use but what you are using looks a lot easier to manage
Yep firecapture! The cutout feature is insanely helpful. It’s the scissor icon looking thing
pretty eh results from my imaging session this morning. Im very annoyed by the edge artifact its especially apparent on mars. Does this mean i have to collimate my telescope?
Oh okay I’ll have to try that out next time, thanks!
Yeah looks like colli is out
yup, you said it
Are you imaging with a phone?, you may want to turn the exposure down.
Good luck w/ that. I tried to photo Jupiter w/ my phone ... wouldn't dial exposure down for love or money.
May or may not have played a role in my purchase of a planetary cam. Even after having a DSLR.
You may need a 3rd party app. A dedicated cam would be really good though.
Yep! I do have the dedicated cam. Couldn't w/ cell phone, was okay w/ DSLR, wanted better, so got the dedicated.
how did you calculate that, if you dont mind me asking? Would it be windspeed, temp and something else?
I think he's talking about sampling?
Seeing. Although apparently predictions ar very inaccurate
My bad. Didn’t mean to put that there
150/750 newt
2x barlow
above average seeing conditions
IMX585 sensor (uranus c)
processing: astrosurface, winjupos
Dang man that's insane
It's a huge improvement from my last jupiter image (exact same setup, only difference is seeing conditions)
Yeah that's a huge improvement. Seeing is sooooo important for planetary and it's so annoying
fr it's just luck based😭
"lucky imaging"
fr seeing is so anoying
Seeing is brutal here in Canada, this is with better seeing
bro that's insane
How do you get yours to not look sharp while still having detaip
I think Mine has a bit more detail but that's bc I did a stronger sharpen and yours looks better bc of that
I just got back from a planetary session and I took 20x1 minute videos 💀
The more the marrier ig
Winjupos
Dark rings.
You just reminded me that I have a Saturn image to process. Looks nothing like that.
that's incredible
Does anyone know why planet following setting from firecapture doesnt work?
I even set the treshold to max and still nothing
not even in the cutting setting works
Are you using 16 bit mode?
Think we need a bit more context.
Screenshot of FC failing to track would help tremendously.
I think whether the cutout tracks or not is in the settings.
ill do that in like 20 min, I have to go outside to my telescope
It looks like your histogram is around half, which is not going to detect anything to track if the threshold is at 71%.
I've only seen cutout and autoalign break when 16-bit mode is enabled, which we can't see since it's off-screen to the top left.
Should I use 16 bit?
Still doesn’t work
Max threshold will ignore every pixel.
I would leave it automatic enabled and continue troubleshooting from there.
That’s what I did, it still won’t work
This is everything I would check:
16 Bit is disabled, found on the main window.
Automatically compute threshold value is enabled in the AutoAlign page in the settings window.
Let the CutOut box track the planet is enabled, found by clicking the carat next to the cut-out icon on the main window.
Make sure AutoAlign is set to Planet for the profile you are using, found in the Profiles page in the settings window.