#Planetary Imaging
1 messages Ā· Page 25 of 1
AS! did that to me before, though. I just reinstalled it yesterday because I redid my entire computer. Maybe if I restart the program? š¤·
Is this the same data? Just converted to tif
Asking because I see one of the files is named _conv at the end
In both images
Exact same data. the _conv is an AS! sharpened version for preview purposes.
Trying something w/ ser
Tried w/ ser, it gave me an image. Maybe first time use is blank?
Huh. Now it's working.
Windows did give me an error the first time I started the app. "Windows has blocked this, do you really want to open it?" Maybe after I said "yes" I needed to close it and open again for Windows to believe what I wanted to do.
is it possible to shoot jupiter or saturn with a 450/114 scope?
It's possible
But definitely need to Barlow up to get some resolution, though it will be small still
Oh okay, I thought that reduces resolution
I got a 2x barlow
It increases resolution
oh wow
Barlow increases the focal length by the amount indicated. My 1000mm F/L OTA w/ 3x Barlow is 3000mm f/l. This increases apparent size and resolution of image that you're viewing.
However, increased f/l can lead to dimmer image, so more gain is needed w/ Barlow than compared to w/o.
Do you know if firecapture can also do this?
When using pipp Iāve always exported it as an avi file and autostakkert can read it even when itās still in video form
Huh okay Iāll have to check that off but also Iāve been told that if I record up to around 6 minutes AS3! Will derotate it for me
AS! does not derotate the actual rotation of the planet, that's what WinJupos is for
If you're talking about field derotation, AS! can do that but it's a bit finnicky and not really necessary so easier to just record short enough videos so field rotation isn't an issue
I got it going today. This might make my life easier. Or if I don't have the "winjupos file naming" box checked I might be stooged until next planetary season after I'm sure that it is checked.
Hopefully it works out for you and I think Iām in the same boat as I didnāt know that there was a winjupos setting in firecapture until now so I may just have to wait until next planetary season as I donāt think Iāll have time to try your method
It technically does align the surface features
Technically yeah
Itās analogous to seeing variations. Just an offset in the x-y plane
That the APs account for
What webcam u use?
I ball web cam face to face c8
Can i have a pic of ur webcam
Woah howās that thing taking pics that good
I don't know lol
I randomly found it
impressive for a damn webcam lmao
Nice
Is a Zwo adc + a 585mc a good combo for planetary with a 12ā dob
Found them second hand at just 440 euros total
And I could negociate to 400
Should I take the deal?
yes
$400? Thats not far of the new price of a 585mc
Sound like a good deal to me, it would cost me 600 and something if I were to buy them new
No
400 is for both
A 585mc and an adc
ohh with the dispersion corrector
Yea
Yeah take that
And a ir uv cut
nice deal
I will
planetary gnna be killer
Yea, just gotta save up some money for an Eq platform
And my setup will be complete
nice man!
so apparently 8" / 10" GSO dobs are out of stock in my local store, there's only 10" / 12" / (and so on) Skywatcher Flextube. It said GSO dobs will restock in next 3 months.
And then we have Lunar occultation of Saturn on 25th July. I'm afraid I'll missed it.
Should I buy 10" SW Flextube
or should I wait for 3 months to buy GSO 8" dobs?
Iād say a 10ā
I'd argue the SW dobs are better tbh
lighter, more portable too
optically sound

wait I think Ima go with SW 8"
Go w/ larger. If you're doing planetary aperture is king. Which is why I'm kicking myself for selling my house for an 8" instead of a 16".
@somber stratus aren't GSO really decent quality though?
yeah there's good, just SW aren't bad
Fair
Yea I heard the mirror quality are better with GSO?
I think I have the recording from my friend
what aperture
I mean I'm hitting diffraction limit on occasion with my SW 16" so they're probably similar
just looks like great seeing tbh
would need an image from an astrocam to tell how close he might be to diffraction limit
But yeah, I think both models are fairly optically sound.
lmao I'll visit him one day. To test with my cam
Where is he based?
These are raw video from the SW 16". I assume the smaller models have similar optical quality given you collimate well.
Obviously seeing remains the key factor
we both live in Malaysia
ah ok explains the seeing
man i really gotta collimate the dob
That is incredible for raw video, would you say this quality is accurate to what you'd see in the eyepiece, albeit zoomed out?
Yeah, just zoomed out as you say.
You guys should give me your seeing conditions
I mean, as much as I don't care for the clouds right now, I don't really want to send them to a fellow astrophotographer.
How can you tell that youāve hit your diffraction limit?
math prolly
@somber stratus I've been wondering.
since SW flextube is collapsible, will the focal length decrease if I don't extend the tube?
Ok I don't think it work
i think it wouldnt focus, or you just discovered how to get f0.1 telescopes
Physics stuff
also yeah focal poi t is far away stuff like that
Yeah I remembered, it's parabolic mirror so the focal length is fixed
What causes these (I think diffraction rings on Jupiter moons) and also how do I make them as cyclical as possible?
The ring is called the Gibbs phenomenon
https://skyinspector.co.uk/mars-edge-artefact/ this article goes in depth about it
Ringing being asymmetric is collimation related
Not sure if you already do but you can try placing an AP on each moon in AS3. Also, stacking only the best frames helps as well.
How long can I shoot Jupiter for if I derotate it?
Technically forever, but I think 15-20 mins works well. During opposition you can probably get away with more because the phase/terminator isn't as prominent.
Edit: probably not forever, maybe 10 hours, basically one full rotation since the features change dramatically even in that span of time
You'd be shooting like 90 second videos in series for 20 mins or whatever
Usually I shoot it for as long as I can, then just derotate the frames that are within 10 minutes of each
What is Damien Peaches method? Can you send a link (assuming it's free)
its on his patreon
with a new winjupos update, it allows better blending of map sections quite far apart rotationwise
but ngl i wouldnt need it for now
I came across something similar myself and Ken mentioned it was basically the DP method. Itās along the lines of derotate two ~10m images to the same reference time then mask the limbs so one contributes to one limb and the other to the other limb
And the centre disk has twice the data
50/50 blend
Neat, though sounds somewhat painful lol
Is it worth getting filters
Yes. UVIR generally work. IR pass filters for Venus and interesting effect on other planets. Other filters for other planetary work. Not sure about the whole list.
Normal camera use? Like DSLR? And when you say webcam, do you mean astro cams? Just trying to get on same page.
Okay.
Speaking as an owner of an ASI585. I've used it so far with a UVIR cut filter. I noticed that there is a difference at least on screen when using that filter. I'd have to look and see if it has one built in.
I haven't tried the IR Pass filter that I have yet; same for the #38A filter, simply because by the time that I bought them planetary season was over. I bought both of those for imaging Venus to try to get clouds. I expect the recommendation would not have come unless they were worth it.
ASI585 does not have one built in
@limber reef so I checked back on my discussion w/ Tom. Notes:
IR Pass 850 or 685. 850 for Venus, 685 for general use and Venus. IR Pass 685 also helps imaging Jupiter, Saturn, Mars under poor seeing and lunar stuff. Planetary #47 filter or #38A w/ UVIR for Venus ..
How do you know which filter you're getting? You look up the filter you want and buy. I bought mine from Agena Astro. I bought an IR 685 a 38A for my purposes. I already have a UVIR so if I want I can use both 38A and UVIR to image Venus. But if you're doing planetary, similar to me, you might get the same ones I did.
If you're asking about size then 1.25" is pretty standard size.
Guys, whatās better when imaging planets, higher gain and lower exposure or higher exposure and lower gain?
lower exposure, higher gain, up to a limit
Venus you can just splash out on a UV filter. Gets the ultimate contrast but it's a bit more expensive.
685 can be a 610/642/720/742 too. Not too specific for general use.
Yes
Do you slightly up the exposure and lower the gain during very good seeing conditions? I mean seeing must be perfect conditions to take take full advantage of that so I'm not sure if it's really worth it.
Meh at that point tracking accuracy also hurts you so I just leave the settings the same
The gain in SNR is so marginal
He tiltin
With the 12ā?
thats trippy:D
Saturns going to become pretty interesting soon
Yep, first planetary image with the 12
Garbage seeing but still hype
Yea, you have one of the first images of Saturn this season
7908 likes, 252 comments. āHoje Saturno recebeu a visita de um objeto luminoso de brilho muito intrigante. 99% das vezes que observamos Saturno com muita ampliação no telescópio, nos deparamos com um planeta solitĆ”rio. Sempre pairando sobre um campo de visĆ£o vazio e escuro... No mĆ”ximo conseguimos notar algum vestĆgio de brilho proveniente das l...
His seeing is nice
He got some great details
Yeah southern hemi is already having it reach like 40° by dawn
i thought the rule of thumb was like a minute for 6 hours of rotation or something
so like jupiter thats like 2 mins
Depends on the angular size but at opposition probably like 3 minutes
Thatās some good seeing for 25°-30° altitude
I was gonna say that looks like Mars lol
But damn that does look like nice seeing
Whatās with your optics?
Time to fix optics 
When Tom touches a telescope, it instantly becomes diffraction limited
Lucca fly him down to Brazil to heal it

What diffraction limited means?
Basically maximum resolution that the scope can possibly do.
If the mirror and seeing is perfect, the waves of light interfering with each other will limit how much resolution you can get, otherwise you'd be able to use as much magnification as you wanted to with any aperture.
https://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diffraction
Diffraction is a physics concept which occurs when waves bend around small obstacles, or spread out after they pass through small openings. Diffraction occurs with all waves, including sound waves, water waves, and electromagnetic waves such as light that the eye can see. Diffraction also occurs with as electrons.
See also dawes limit
So I need to collimate my scope perfectly and have perfect seeing?
After that I can zoom in how much I want
Nope, that would be true if diffraction did not exist. Since it does: physics limits the resolution by how big your aperture is.
Ohhh
Rough limit for resolution with a scope for planetary is where each pixel is 1/3-1/4th the length of the dawes limit of the scope. You can figure out the barlow you'd need with your camera using this formula: 5(or 7 as the max) times pixel size in um divided by focal ratio
You do need good seeing to use this through, so there is nothing wrong with using less barlow in worse seeing.
Ok, thanks for the info
I don't know, I don't take photos anymore because of this.
Bruh, this is going to be a fortune, will it be ready before Saturn's occultation by the Moon?
This happens visually too
Do you have a pic of a star?
No
This image was when I received the telescope, everything seemed normal
Here

If I remember correctly, I pointed it at the sun without a filter to test if it would burn wood, could this be the cause?
November
It seems normal
yep it says on my small reflector scopes manual that doing that can cause internal heat biuldup and can cause damage to the optical elements
ā ļø
Did it burn the wood tho
Yes
It shouldnāt, I did that many times with mine and itās fine
I made an adjustment here in the mirror cell, I'll wait for the night to test it.
No unless the sunlight hit the secondary
If it was just the primary out of the cell before you mounted it, not a problem at all.
If it hit the secondary is there a problem, on my old scope it was just fine, I was doing sun projections on paper often and the optical were good.
depends on the aperture
6ā
the light cone is more focused when it hits the secondary so it can get warmish
It was a bird jones tho
also the focuser assembly if you're not pointed perfectly at the Sun
Generally it's a stupid idea though. Refractors are fine if they're like tiny 3" things
yup
Ok, so solar filter it is, no projection
Does anyone here have a file for an extension tube to put in between my camera and barlow. I can 3d print it
So, do you need a new primary or new secondary?
I'm debating on cleaning my mirrors on the 10" dob. I've had it for at least 3 years now and feel like optical quality has not been as good as when I first got the scope. I don't know if cleaning the mirrors will do any good for planetary. The mirrors probably need to be extra dirty to have an effect
I've made this one that can generate any length of a 1.25" extension tube, just need to install openscad and change the spacing value to what ever you want.
can confirm that extension works great
I still think it's funny that using this on my 72ED solved my mixed focus issue, see #1232205779109679215
https://a.co/d/7uPmpV5
Gosky Deluxe Telescope Camera Adapter Kit for Canon EOS /Rebel DSLR Fits ALL Canon EOS SLR / DSLR Models Included in this kit: a variable eyepiece projection adapter , a bayonet ring to fit Canon DSLRs, a universal M42 to 1.25" T adapter. The bayonet ring combines Canon DSLRs with the variable ey...
It's still good to do so and it's quite simple
Yeah I watched a couple videos a while back and bought distilled water and lint free towels but haven't really got to cleaning them
Truth be known I don't even take the primary out.
I just use cotton buds soaked in distilled water, and wipe radially to push the dirt towards the edge of the mirror. I then just use a powerful hairdyer (on cool mode) to push the remaining drops off the primary. Prevents them drying again. @heavy mirage
Looks crystal clear afterwards. No mirror removal required.
I'd definitely clean it around now though, as pollen is known to decompose the mirror coating if it sits there. Spring is the worst time for this.
Yeah that makes sense, I just don't want stuff stuck at the edge of the mirror so I'll probably just end up taking it out for cleaning.
How often do you clean the mirrors? And how much of a difference does it make for image quality for planetary? @somber stratus
With school and and all I'll probably end up cleaning them towards the end of spring. Haven't really had any time nor good weather to do astro for a while
It doesnāt get stuck at the edge of the mirror.
I clean every 3Mo maybe, and minimal difference, itās just the mirror coating and preventing decay thatās important.
Alr thanks
I would've thought you could shoot it for longer than Jupiter since it rotates slower
Yeah you can do it longer than Jupiter
For Jupiter I donāt do longer than 90s normally
Iāve seen Jupiter blur at 3 minutes, especially during a transit or something itāll be more noticeable
Unless your aperture is less than 5ā then you can go for 3 minutes
Oh, mirrors are different from lenses?
The coatings I mean
Fracs coating are super fragile for cleanings
Not sure. I donāt think itās an issue on lenses
I presume everything on the optics is "no touchy"
Cleaning will inevitably cause damage
Unavoidable
But how much damage until it becomes noticeable is the real question
Yeah, absolutely for cleaning. I said that regarding the pollen decomposition. Not sure if itās dependent on mirror coating or glass. Itās acid basically.
I guess this begets the question. At some point, do we replace the mirror or the OTA? Or just cross fingers and hope that our fifth-great-grandchildren will be answering that and not us?
You can pay to get mirrors recoated.
Worth it to do that vs. new OTA?
But even if it ālooksā bad, youāve likely only lost a fraction of the light collection by area. Youād have to lose 20% of the coating to make a real difference, which basically never happens.
Depends on how good your optics are.
And if you want to keep them
There are days on which my equip would see that and say "Oh, a challenge it is then." š
I was disappointed to see the optics in my current OTA were only rated "mediocre" by telescopicwatch.
Where can I get something rated high? Or does that exist with a Newt?
Each serial number will be different so you canāt really say such a thing. You just gotta test each mirror
I think I solved the problem with my telescope
For some reason, I'm not getting focus with my ADC, with or without barlow the focus stays inside the focuser
TƩtis and shadow
Some lunars from this morning
Saturn and Mars this morning
Really nice
You can see Tethys in the Saturn image
And itās shadow which is cool
Thanks, guys
I cleaned the primary mirror of my telescope
Itās a 12ā one
I did it with just water and a cloth
Here is the before and after
Is it ok if I cleaned it with normal water, I couldnāt find any distilled water?
yeah, you'll probably find dried water still shows up as the minerals deposit. It won't damage the mirror though
99% of the time itās ok. Depends how hard your water is.
yeah salt is the only thing
but it's far better than leaving pollen etc to decompose
No, I dried the mirror with a nice cloth for glass and I donāt see any dried water on it rn
Also, I'd try to avoid wiping with a cloth. Can damage the coating if you're not careful.
probably fine though
I use an air blower to get rid of the large drops
Sandpaper is perfect for removing stubborn dirt.
lmao
Yea I tried that, works perfectly
40 grit. Rub as hard as you can.
I did that and my telescope does not show an image no more
Now Iām cleaning the inside, it has some dust that can fall on the mirror
that will rarely be an issue
it's dust floating through the OTA that's the problem
unless you throw the OTA around, the stuff on the side won't move.
I will just to make sure
sure
Everything is done, but first I have to check the collimation with you also, Iām my opinion the collimation is perfect but I need a second opinion XD
the inner circle seems a little off center
but im not the planetary goat so take my opinion with a grain of salt
microwave (plz dont)
I always clean with normal water, but always dry with toilet paper and a hairdryer
I think a cloth is good, right?
chainsaw
Tried that last week, my views are better now
If it's a microfiber cloth I don't think it's a problem.
Not centeralized in the eyepiece hole or in the reflection?
Yes
Just bought an OCAL electronic collimator from Hercules because I was not getting perfectly round stars on one of the edges of my Orion 8" f3.9 telescope even with a Skywatcher Aplanatic F4 coma corrector. Can be purchased here (affiliate link): https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDqOEhj
Recommended Equipment and Affiliate links:
Agena Astro: ht...
@ruby tartan, the secondary seems pretty aligned rn, but I canāt get the reflection centered
This part
That doesn't have to be centered perfect
Your scope just has an offset
Would a microfiber cloth work good for cleaning a telescope mirror? The same ones that you use to clean camera lenses
no
distilled water and cotton balls
only
I'd say no
I just hate the idea of wiping the primary with a dry cloth
wet cotton balls as Zegery says
yeah it hurts to think about
Ah ok, good to know! Thank you both!
Somo hubble files from 1994
looks like a basic Tom image
I know I'm just saying Tom gets those images now with his equipment which are way smaller and cheaper.
This shows the technological evolution
Exactly not trying to disprove you any way, as you mentioned its crazy that in 30 years we went from needing space telescopes to get that detail down to a dob and planetary cam. Just think of another 30 years where people may be able to match JWST
Might be prohibitively expensive for the average guy, but the equip will be available.
Whatās up with those dark brown spots at the South Pole?
I think the next major advancement will have to be consumer adaptive optics.
impact
Guys, when imaging planetary nebulae with lucky imaging untracked, should I use fire capture or sharpcap?
Sharpcap stretch ability is handy.
Livestacking feature is pretty neat too. But I don't think it is as effective as manually stacking the subs
In terms of sharpness and stuff
By manually I mean using dss or whatever
Shoemaker levy impacts?
Really nice processing
The marks are crazy
Iāve fantasised about something like that happening again on Jupiter so much lmao
I've fantasised about something like that happening again on Earth so much haha š
š¤Isn't that what you are using now?
Whatās that?
mirror wiggles to neutralize atmo seeing
Many scientific observatories have mirrors that can deform to decrease the effect of the atmosphere on the image, so more details basically.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adaptive_optics
There are some consumer products that tilt the mirror, but that is not quite the same, just keeps the object in the same place afaik.
Adaptive optics (AO) is a technique of precisely deforming a mirror in order to compensate for light distortion. It is used in astronomical telescopes and laser communication systems to remove the effects of atmospheric distortion, in microscopy, optical fabrication and in retinal imaging systems to reduce optical aberrations. Adaptive optics wo...
Can you buy such a mirror yet?
https://hartsci.com/product/#product-1 huh apparently this exists, but I have no idea how it actually works. Does mention deforming the mirror in the AO+ brochure? Considering it has no stated price that is not going to be affordable by anyone short of a multimillionare.
HartSCI offers products in adaptive optics and imaging, including ClearStar Adaptive Optics, ClearStar Fiber Feed, and Fiber Feed Unit.
It will take a long time for this technology to hit the market in an affordable form
A decade at least in my opinion
You can already buy deformable mirrors and shack-hartmann sensors on Thorlabs, the deformable mirror alone costs 20k⬠š
First sun pic, really not great but hey it's first time
I tried with my deep sky ha filter as I saw some people using it and getting a bit more contrast on the cells but it just made the image too noisy for me
dang that's actually a pretty cool image even for the first time
Guys help me I need clear skies
getting ready for the season
I need that
All I need now is some free time
Yeah same thatās why Iām waiting for summer since end of course exams are near
Good morning, here is Saturn
If it's your land, why don't you make a path and a concrete area?
concrete is worse for seeing, so I'd probably leave it tbh
maybe have raised platform for each of the legs to get it off the grass/mud
I got three square concrete paving stone type slabs and put them where mount legs go
It's not my land, it's a field right next to my backyard
I used this
But maybe I'll use some wood blocks for now
To keep the platform legs off the ground too
I have the exact same
three porcelain slabs
yep works like a charm

You shall suffer
Yeah I have a flash flood warning for my area now 
This morning's Saturn, first light from Neptune-C-II
Saturn in IR685 did not yield, seeing wasĀ veryĀ weak
Mars this morning
Mercury
I have never tried mercury, usually so close to sun. Looks awesome though
Okay, just how big is your OTA again? That's a bit of detail.
On a side note, I'd need tracking to get Mercury. No way am I hovering that close to the sun w/o help.
GSO 12"
š
I recommend waiting for a good opportunity when its as far as possible, and preferably at sunset
If you do it at sunset and you just place your scope in a shaded area, which guarantees the sun will not touch it
Sunrise is riskier because the sun is coming into view
Yeah I had Person here at Finland who melted the secondary baffle tube in his mak when doing goto to mercury :p
Being in shade is definitely the best policy
At least he did not have the camera in yet
lol
Still feel more comfy in shade though. It ended up being fixable though, plastic cone of right fimension and some glue
Now at age of 3d printing it would have been even easier
tbh you should keep the side of the OTA in the shade anyway if you're doing daytime planetary
reduces tube currents massively
What telescope do you have??
Hey @somber stratus and @main flume , sorry to bother
I'm making a conference on space for my class's goodbye party and I'd love to use some your sun footage (with proper credits), is that ok?
Sure
Thanks!
Here it would be 7 am already
GSO 12" f5
Does anyone here connect to there goto dob with a phone?
I have tried using the phnoe but the app was pretty buggy, and would either crash or lose connection. I do use the synscan app on my laptop and it works great.
I view it as an alternate in case something goes wrong with the actual remote
I might try that as itās broken on all my iOS devices cause of the updateā¦.
sick man
Thanks
Guys, what setting do you recommend for close up lunar imaging? I have a 12ā dob imaging at 3750fl
With an imx224
3.75um pixels
Max res 1300 900
Just exposure it properly
Any tips for doing that?XD
I would say expose at 5ms ish, maybe higher depending on seeing, and adjust gain from there
At that point I just eyeball it
Bright but not clipped
Yeah I always eyeball my settings
For the moon itās like always different too
Different phases are brighter
at least <10ms, if not 5ms to freeze the seeing. Gain is whatever is needed thereafter
Ok, sounds good, what about Saturnās exposure? Where should I be with that?
I use like 10-12ms on saturn, itās kinda dim tbh
Compared to Jupiter, Venus mars etc
yeah 10ms again like willaf said
I hope that this morning Iāll get my first Saturn image this season
certainly no more than 15ms in my experience
And the first ever Saturn image with my new 12ā
Ok, Iāll try about 10
I hope noise wonāt ruing the image
if you're running exposure-limited fps, the SNR is roughly the same when you stack it out
I expect Iāll get my first decent chances in super late May/early June, itāll actually rise over the 30° treeline then
Iām super hyped actually Iām itching to use the 12 for something fun
At exactly 5pm Saturn will be at about 16° alt
I.e 2000 x 10ms is roughly the same as 1000 x 20ms noise wise. Total exposure time is the same.
technically the 10ms will be worse but it's so marginal
ya just gotta make sure the camera is recording all of the time, and you're not limited by the fps rate of the camera.
Btw, should I be worried by the rotation of the planet?
Up to 2 mins is fine for now. Maybe go down to 1 minute if seeing is good/later in the year. I run 1-min SERs
A bunch of them of course.
I think 2 mins will do for me, seeing is often not that good here, so I need some data to get a good chance at a decent image
Should I bother with gamma or leave the factory settings
?
Do you mean field rotation or physical rotation of the globe
The rotation of Saturn around its axis
Itās rotation speed is similar to Jupiter, but given its smaller angular size you should be able to get away with like 4 minutes before any THEORETICAL smearing would happen
And thatās only if any features would be visible
Itās possible but Iām not sure how active the dynamic storms are rn
But tbh, if the seeing isnāt amazing you might as well record for longer just to have more clean frames to stack with
Pretty sure you can split your videos if they're too long
I forgot how to do it without compression
You can split videos in pipp, just make sure debayer is off and use .ser as output
That said, I recommend using .ser for all planetary stuff
or you could just run 1 min vids and not bother splitting 
if you derotate, it's the same SNR
Does anyone have a video on how to use the ZWO ADC. Im going for my first Saturn and Mars this weekend and as you know theyāre pretty low to the horizon
webcam doing fine
I had no plans to capture this morning, but spending the night playing helldivers made me change my mind
A little Mars
IR685 version
Youāre working with a 12ā dob right?
Yeah
Right on, do you think if I pair my 8ā, with an ADC, 2x Barlow and 585mc that I can get some good footage of Saturn and Mars? Or would I need more FL for Mars
If your seeing allows it, you should get some legal registration on Saturn, Mars is another story, it's still very small
When imaging the moon, should I record in RGB or luminance(L)?
just in green?

Ok
Saturn
really nice!
a wider view
wow thatās brilliant
Is that a single frame?
Judging by the line artefacts at the top & bottom, it's likely a stack
Was thinking single frame w/ ADC and filter, and under 10/10 seeing conditions.
Stack under 4/10 seeing
getting good data yay
Light b̶u̶c̶k̶e̶t̶ barrel
without that stroller for scale i wouldnt have known its that big
How does this secondary mirror alignment look?
I personally think it has to go left a little bit but itās tough because it looks like itās too high but also too low
try to get a picture where you see the focuser tube edge well, then you can draw some circles in photo editor and actually measure
you only need to do that bit once so might as well do it thoroughly
I donāt have a photo editor unfortunately that I can do it with quick but is this any better?
Just have to adjust primary now I believe, but just want to get it ready as I can get: ISS, Lunar, Saturn, Mars, Neptune, and possibly mercury tonight
Just if anyone can confirm that it looks centre then Iāll move onto the primary which should be easier given the circle outline is there
Windows gave me a looong update just before I started imaging Saturn
This is not fair XD
what went wrong here?
Life...
Probably stacking error
Hmm wil check again then. Thanks
Haha having the same problem but it's vertical lines nowš„²
Try using bigger or fewer alignment points. My moon images look like a checkerboard if I use too small or too many APs
Try drawing your own APs
Use astrosurface to stack? My images have them too but on a wayyy lower magnitude
ill try that next too, now using manual bigger alignment points. dont know about astrosurface yet
Whatās your camera chain look like? (I.e what Barlow do you use + if you use an ADC). Also how were you able to get such sharp shots of Mars and Saturn m, just tried last night and Saturn came out blurry even after stacking and Mars was so small and shaky that I couldnāt make out any surface detail
My current setup is a PO Neptune C II + barlow 3x celestron x-cel, I normally use ADC too
And for the details, I'm using a 12" and a place that generally has good seeing all the time
How do you get it to focus when you have the ADC in? I tried last night and wasnāt able to dial in the focus but I only tried once.
Maybe having my 8ā makes a large difference vs your 12ā but my seeing was also pretty bad especially because of the low horizon imaging
So, I could do it, but for some reason, I can't do it anymore
Well if seeing is bad no device will help you and focusing will be hard
You can try to back off image scale with less barlow or such if possible
Oh I meant like I couldnāt get Saturn to focus down into a point, and I will have to try it again without the Barlow like you mentioned to try and focus it
If you use barlow put it before adc
And if it seems that you lack out travel in focuser could be as simple as needing extension tube
Most adc like long focal ratio so usually with newton, barlow is good
Most*
Have you tried debayering in PIPP before stacking?
Jupiter officially past solar conjunction :>
It wanted to be a crt screen.
Canāt wait to see this years Jupiters cloud belts, hopefully itās different
The time has come
Does anyone have tips on how to stack lunar videos that are untracked and donāt show the whole disk of the Moon? When Iāve tried using PIPP before where I selected a certain region to stabilize and track and then my output video usually freaks out and doesnāt look great
Use astrosurface (if u can)
For pipp stabilisation, make sure to place the AFB over a high contrast region like a crater with shadows so the software can identify it. I also recommend using ROI in pipp so you get a cropped output video without black bars which can ruin the stack
Hey I did but I guess I selected the wrong pattern. Tried again and that was probably the problem
I had this issue and I believe I just put it into autostakkert.
Use higher AP size numbers and select multi-size ap. Maybe will work
Thanks for the tip but it probably was the debayering pattern. Searched for the right one and it was grbg instead of gbrg
Pretty cool results too, only 6 frames for this mosaic made with a 130 pds, 2x focal extender and a svbony 305 pro
Saturn 2021-2024
insane
Whatās the quality standard for UV/IR cut filters? Prices vary from Ā£20-40, id like to save money but not risk degrading image quality
Not from Amazon, not from Svbony, you're set.
i have the zwo one itās quite good
I have the svbony one, is it bad?
@thin aspen @sharp ridge I say not from Svbony because I've purchased 5 products from Svbony and had 6 disappointing experiences with them. "Steve, how can you have 6 disappointing experiences w/ 5 products?" They were that bad. For me, anyway.
Def going to agree with this though. I feel like I lucked out on it.
Ye that makes sense, I think I would be put off too
Got Saturn AGIAN with my phone but with my 9mm eye piece and a 3x barlow(I know only 2x is recommended but it the only one I got)
Hereās uncroped
Get a 2x
Buy the celestron omni 2x Barlow for like Ā£30 i got mine for Ā£7 cuz somebody didnāt know what it was
mars is a lot smaller than i expected
this is with a 8inch newt (1000mm fl), 2x barlow and 10mm lens
iāve never seen mars during opposition before. Does it big enough so that you can visually see the icy poles/other surface details?
Yeah
On my 5" without a barlow I could see ice caps and the darker surface features
I mean it is 5 arcsec across atm
@tawny cave Keep in mind that @coarse aspen regularly gets about 20/10 seeing so ...
At low magnification that seeing wouldnt really matter
I didn't think that one would be able to see the polar caps on a 5" OTA though. Not denying it, just being funny about you having a seeing advantage with a bit more frequency than ... well, me for example.
lol
i have a 16inch dob so this should be enough once opposition comes around
Old saturn data, 2022 with a 8"
What was the effective focal length?
What 5ā does to a mf
Whatās a 5? If your talking about a Barlow lens u was meant useing one
The apparent size
f/20
You got that from an 8"?
WTAF am I doing wrong.
Dude. My best so far with my 8" is this ... what am I doing wrong. The color is meh.
Just try my data
From this image
What camera
585
What camera?
Could also just be better collimation, better mirrors, better camera settings, ect
and filters
qhy 462c
What kind of barlow?
like the brand?
Celestron X-Cel
ah
Well, I have no experience with this. But astrotom said that he uses cheaper Barlow lenses because they have less glasses in them. and don't dim the object as much
I think atleast
checking
lol
I was recommended to get the higher quality glass; something about better output on the image.
But once I figured out processing I got the best Jupiter images I've taken with the Celestron. I had an Astromania that wasn't a slouch, either. But Celestron was 2x the price of Astromania.
Sigh. "Get pricey optics, the more lenses correct the image and have less color separation" Now "Get cheap optics, they have less lenses to dim the image."
š
Ig it depends more on what you need it for
Here's a single shot of Jupiter taken with the Celestron. I don't think it suffered from the lenses.
Yea. But he said that Saturn especially is very dark in UV with expensive optics
Nice shot though
Not sure who's going to cry first, me or my wallet.
My best shot/s of Jupiter are out of focus. So I need to get myself a collimation laser or cap. Idk
I'll go with that than. For now at least
I did get a laser. But it was the wrong kind š
Eep.
quick reprocess
This was taken late November 2023
Some images with the 8"
It's GOT to be the camera at this point. GOT to be the camera
What equipment did you use?
Derotated.
Looks pretty similar in detail to me
His image is bigger than mine.
GSO 8", qhy 462C
QHY's QHY5III462C camera has a stellar reputation especially in the realm of planetary imaging with some improvements seen from the previous versions. Having a Sony IMX462 STARVIS CMOS sensor and 135 FPS FF high speed, low noise (0.7e-), 95% high Quantum Efficiency in Red and Near IR. UV/IR cut and IR850 filters comes with this unit. It can be u...
you only care about dimming for dim objects like neptune and uranus
I think Tom was referring to imaging in UV, I remember asking about it. In UV the surface brightness is so low that, yes probably using cheaper barlows will help with surface brightness. I think this is because good barlows are designed to remove/correct the UV/IR to get a more ācolour corrected imageā therefore removing the UV you want when shooting at that wavelength. You have one of the best barlows so I wouldnāt worry getting a different one.
More likely seeing
Brazil has great seeing most of the time
Yes was referring to UV. Single elements are better as per transmission. That being said I have used this ācheapā barlow for ISS imaging and it gave me the best result yet, so itās not that bad.
You might lose the equivalent of 0.1ā seeing to the poorer optics
This was cheap 2x & ADC
Which eyepiece should i use for planetary
If you have a low budget, a 6mm goldline
I have one and it's good
You can also add a barlow to it or to another eyepiece
I like my hyperion 5mm.
The 8-24mm hyperion zoom is the one i find using the most, however.
6mm goldline (sometimes called a redline) by any brand
usually you'll see svbony ones around
What budget zoom eyepiece do you recommend me? Because the hyperion one is as expensive as my current telescope
šš»
you use an adc?
Yes
Should be helping with the color fringe
That's not fringe as much as not the right colour.
I just got my second IOTD
large
Eh, definitely seeing some red and blue in the rings
Especially in the front portion
Color of the planet itself seems correct to me
But yeah if you get that adc adjusted correctly it should really help even in good seeing
Which Neptune version do you think is the best? I heard the newest one might be the best for planetary out there
@somber stratus Titan can be resolved, but no detail is present similar to how Venus is in visible light. Would it be possible to use UV like you would for Venus to get detail on Titan, or is it just way too small and dim?
Not sure there is detail in UV? possibly. Would have to look into it.
I know CH4 has details but that's too long a wavelength and you lose res
Blue has the best chance in terms of resolve.
UV has shite seeing/transmission etc so meh
Ah ok
I knew Venus has some UV, I didn't know if Titan was like that
Ok so UV only detects hazes & high atmosphere. The false colour (surface) detail you see from Cassini are using 727/889nm CH4 narrowband
<$100, buy a goldline 6mm
I have one š
Is there a specific reason why you would want a zoom eyepiece?
they all are a bit narrow on the wide end :/ even the baader
if only the fov behaved in opposite way
I have a 25mm and a 6mm, so I wanted some middle mower eyepiece
Also I have hard from Damond Scotting that it feels cool
And a 2.5x barlow
2.5x & 25mm gives equivalent of 10mm without a barlow
I had the baader zoom but I sold it, compared to 27mm panoptic the wide end was like looking through drinking straw
I think if you want ultra simple travel / grab and go setup then it makes sense
cause you wont need to carry many eyepieces but it is at cost of fov and i do not get why you would want high ep fl with small fov
smallest magnification is what you most often use anyway
Getting a barlow is more worth it tbh. I've tried similar magnification on Planets with and without a barlow, and the short fl eyepieces are almost always worse than the longer 25mm with my 4.5x barlow/ADC imaging train.
Maybe that's just a crap quality 6mm/10mm I have though...
... i just realized what subforun this is on... if planetary is only thing you want it for ignore everyting i said lol
fov wont matter then
image quality itself was good
those zoom eyepieces are great for lunar though
*with visual at least
entire moon in fov, then you can zoom in.
phone astro with the one i have sucks though
yeah I would think that operating the zoom would be pretty much impossible with the clamp on
I trough it was ask a nerd forum
Wow guys, thank you for the advices
Then my next question, what middle powered eyepiece should I buy for around 100$
Yes
I didn't think about that
I have heard gold lines are good.
So maybe the 15mm?
The celestron x-cel 18mm works quite nice for planets paired with a 3x and ADC on the 10" around 300x (5400mm / 18mm), but I am thinking of getting a 12mm-15mm for some closer views.
It also works great for viewing galaxies and nebula
Any recommendations for a 12mm eyepiece? I was thinking an x-cel or omni but I can stretch my budget a bit
I got an x-cel 2.3mm and it is š©
I assume that's with the 16"?
12mm seems like ideal for planetary, do you think it's worth going for a 9mm?
As a user of an 8mm, i much prefer my 17.
Both are the big multi element saxon eyepieces.
But I have a 150/750 mm dob flextube from sw
Ok, so high magnitude eyepiece is bad, but eyepiece with barlow lense is good
Sounds like it may be good to stick to a magnification no more than twice the mirror size in mm. But yeah a nice barlow and adc would be ideal. With a 3x/ADC and 12mm you'll be at around 280x, with 15mm 225x.
Extend it by a few mm, or use as is.
Oh I see
So the 18 mm x-cel is good?
As a mid power eyepiece?
I like my hyperion mark iv zoom.
my 17mm saxon is also good, cant speak for the xcel but i imagine its ok.
More precised?
The tubes
Baader hyperion?
Yup
Kinda expensive for me
Welcome to Astronomy and Astrophotography.
photography in general tbh
š§
There is no way someone imaged this
"Maxar Technologies Inc. is a space technology company headquartered in Westminster, Colorado, United States, specializing in manufacturing communication, Earth observation, radar, and on-orbit servicing satellites, satellite products, and related services."
Ah yes cheating by taking the photo from space, by a satellite that is probably designed to take photos of the earth?
First time out with my 400P since January.
I need a 400mm aperture.
Even better, 610mm
Ah, now it makes sense
Honestly I want to know what aperture and F/ratio needed to get that from a GBOTA.
a satellite
Orion XT8 dob, ZWO 585mc using fire capture, and a quick stack in ASI Studio and a slight touch up on my phone
Is the pic with the black backgroud taken during daytime?
Moon thru 114/900 scope and webcam (yes the colours are true)
Some craters + The Kangaroo Mountains (4th image)
Taken with a dobson heritage 150mm
Ah yes, a fellow southern ontarian dealing with garbage tier seeing. I understand
Haha I just realized that I replied to a message from friggin FEBRUARY
Oh I know, literally any day that can be clear just has terrible seeing lol, and all good no worries
How do I know when my seeing is goood and bad?
Itās mostly just judgment, if you were to look at the Moon or even just stars you can kind of see if the air is shaky or not
Promising results with the 400P this morning.
@thick heron
No eyepieces. Only lenses I use are barlows to magnify the image.
Oh did u use a camera
Yea most ppl either use astrocameras or dslrs
I gotta use my phone for now
I might try and find a rlly cheap svbony camera and just use that for now cuz my phone makes it impossible to take pics properly
If your budget is super super tight you could find something on aliexpress
Itās only cuz im gonna be getting a job soon and Iām gonna save for a Uranus c
Nice good for you
a cheap touptek imx290
Never heard of them lol
I need to get a camera
But ima wait and just skip straight to a good one instead of buying 2 then buying a good one
Itāll end up cheaper aswell
Nice.
I'm at a point right now where I would trade in my SkyView Pro setup, the EvoStar 72ED, near all the eyepieces I have, for an EQ6R-Pro and 16" Newt.
Not gonna work, 16" is way too heavy for a eq6
Then the appropriate mount
At that point probably a pier
Heh, EQ6R capacity != ā
How do you think he got an image?
eye screenshot
just get a dob
fun with planets
I'm looking to increase size of aperture
16" dob
And I want GoTo
they make goto dobs
Otherwise I can't find the ice giants
you just can't do long exposure DSO with them because of field rotation
accurate enough for planets
Daguerreotype, of course.
Phone?
The seeing must have been phenomenal
Single stack from this morning
I've had clouds and bad seeing for a while š¦
Me too
Me too and I live in Arizona
ššš
That open band below the southern band has expanded š
Guys whatās the best camera for planetary form these 3, all of them are around at the same price sh
Neptune c II imx 464
Zwo 585mc
Zwo 462mc
585, larger sensor and newer tech than the other two. No idea how the other two are a similar price through. Could also try to find a 664 cam, smaller sensor and cheaper than the 585/uranus but same technology afaik.
I found a 585 and a Neptune c II at the exact same price
Which one should I choose?
585, it's the same sensor as the uranus-c. How much is the c II? must be pretty overpriced to cost as much as the 585
Iām from Romania so the 585 is 500euros new and 300sh
The Neptune C II is 400 new and 300sh
Overpriced but thereās nothing I can do about it since my parents donāt want to buy stuff online via card
@dark cargo
Damn ok that is pricy. Try looking for a asi664 or neptune 664, might be a bit more reasonable price to performance wise. But the 585 is practically the best sensor you can have for planetary and does have decentish fov for untracked DSO.
The 664 is 100 euros more than the 585sh
i see, that makes perfect sense. Worse sensor for more money
no it's a direct downgrade to the 585. Pretty sure its same specs but just a smaller sensor. I think it's more expensive because player one cams are overpriced in europe. or just because the camera for it is newer.
664 is cheaper no?
on player one anyway
New itās cheaper, but I found a 585mc sh thatās 100 euros cheaper than a new 664mc
I think Iāll go with the 585
I need a bit more fov since Iām untracked
And itās cheaper
i would like to know what sort of settings (expsure/gain) i should use to capture mars and saturn, i have a heritage 130p dob with a touptek imx290 (untracked)
i've never done planetary before so id appreciate any help
I use that. The Player One equivalent is the Uranus-C
Personally I'd use the P1 just to not be in the ZWO garden.
If seeing is bad use lowest exposure possible then increase the gain until the histogram is around 80% full.
I think my seeing isnāt too bad, also what does a 80% full histogram look like
How much integration time would I need to bring out any detail?
Any recommended telescope for planetary imaging?
Biggest dob you can afford, after you sell your kidneys.
goto ideally.
._. Really?
I quite like my skywatcher 14" goto. But its a bit of a pain to move. Manageable though.
Could go for one of the hubble optics dobs. They are lighter.
The skywatcher 20" goto is surprisingly lightweight too.
Base is 45kg and the tube is 30.
its the same weight as the 14"
Any cheaper telescope?
how cheap
Biggest aperture like f11?
thats focal ratio. Doesnt matter a heap for the scopes native ratio.
I see
Alright thanks tho
i run my scope (native F/4.6) at F/21.
hey lmc do you know what exposure/gain id need to do for untracked planetary?
5-20ms exposure, depending on seeing.
Adjust gain to suit.
seeing isnt too bad
you'll get a feel for it. 20ms is better for signal, but seeing blurs more.
gain is the confusing one for me
You'll catch glimpses of detail through the seeing. At some point you wont if you raise exposure too much.
adjust so nothing is clipped. Aim for the peak to be at like 50-70%
oh alright, and do i need loads of integration time to get any details?
like 3 mins of total recording is about the limit.
depends on the object
derotation is a good idea
mars and saturn is what i plan on
is that a piece of equipment or something in processing?
Saturn is pretty featureless. 3 mins technically, 5 mins is ok.
Mars is 3-4 mins i think.
processing
gotcha
alright thanks alot, cant wait to shoot em
the 20" are great, I've used one and its super light for its size
I need to buy one. When i have a house big enough for it.
I've used a skywtcher 20" but the manual type
not the goto since the person that has it only uses it for visual astronomy
its a shame that he doesnt do planetary yet
I might convince him XD
What a waste. Still, must be great for visual.
its super good
he aslo has a GREAT set of TeleVue eyepices
the televue ethos are some realy high quality eyepices
but expensive as
Eyepieces are the one thing i am not sure i need quality for. I have a few 2" eyepieces. Hyperion 5mm and zoom and a 8mm and 17mm Saxon.
They are enough for me.
I refuse to look through an expensive one in case i buy it.
Do you do visual?
Occasionally
You should invest in a Televue, totally worth it
Should i do video or photo when stacking
Video for planetary and moon
Dso?
Dso images
are you tracked?
check pinned msg in #š¤-ask-a-nerd
Does this advice also apply to mirrorless cameras? I've been stacking photos from my a6100 (attached to my telescope) of the Moon and I feel they come out better cause I'm using the full sensor that way.
I donāt know if it applies to those cameras, Iām sure someone else can answer that
Take a vid using the mirrorless and compare it to stacking the photos. I suspect the primary difference may be in size b/c of the use of full sensor. Either way you're stacking images, the real difference is how they're obtained.
I will try it next time. Tricky thing is that 1080p 60fps and 4k 30fps video crops and I can't get the full disc of the Moon. But i will try.
Not even the 1080 60fps captures full disc? (presumably at full zoom)
I have a DSLR - Canon T7/2000D. Can capture full disk w/ kit lens when using video mode but the video mode might be different, and probably a different sensor/size.
Is there any tips when imaging Saturn to bring out more surface colour? I find when I record Saturn I just get the standard yellow-ish colour of it and thatās about it. For context I use (8ā dob, 585mc, uv/ir cut, and have used 2x and 3x Xcel). Is it something to do with gain or exposure when capturing?
All of my Saturn shots have had their surface colour brought out in post.
For example, I started with the left, ended with the right.
I had to do RGB balance/alignment, adjust gain and saturation.
An adc would help
That one was with the ADC
I think it was out of tune, the color fringing and whatnot
I just ordered my adc and the learning curve is gonna be rough probably
š
I also just recently learned something in post-processing that's been helping so we'll see.
My best Jupiter so far was taken with OUT the ADC because I was going on a clear night and good seeing while Jupiter was high up so wasn't imaging through as much atmosphere. I didn't use the ADC b/c on a couple of previous nights/attempts I lost over an hour of possible imaging time because the ADC wouldn't focus.
@hasty hull first thing you have to do with your ADC is figure out whether itās a righty or a lefty, most likely a righty but itās really simple to figure out. And then see how the horizon is angled through your eyepiece, I recommend making a marking on your focuser aligned to the horizon and then you can always just align the ADC to that marking
https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/525563-for-users-of-the-new-zwo-adc-important/ how to figure out if itās a righty or a lefty
Some of the early ZWO ADCs are lefties, so you probably have a righty but it wonāt hurt to check
Good info there, I was reading after a frustrating night that if the ADC didn't work set up in one way, that I could just rotate it 180° and it would likely work. There was no explanation, just "If you put it in and can't get a good image, put it in rotated so the tab is on the opposite side."
... which I have not had a chance to try since then
I found this thread pretty early on after I first got an ADC
Also this only goes for ZWO ADCs afaik
What do you know, I own a ZWO ADC. š
I would use my ADC but I canāt seem to get anything into focus whenever I plug it into the imaging train
Where in the imaging train are you placing it? It should be focuser ā> Barlow ā> ADC ā> camera
Often putting it between the focuser and Barlow makes it impossible to reach focus
I believe I put the ADC in the Barlow like how you had it but I canāt fully remember Iāll have to retry it whenever I get a clear night
Oh wow thanks, had no idea about this
Guys, should I upgrade my 224 to a 585 or should I buy a ADC first
12ā dob 3750fl with a 2.5x Barlow
1500 native fl
I would personally update my camera to the 585/ Uranus-C
Depends what you feel limited by. FOV and difficulty in tracking? Uranus c.
Or if you often feel the need for an ADC, get that.
TBH my thought is based from the fact that I was using a DSLR before the 585 so the difference was phenomenal - then I collimated my OTA.
Can someone tell me from this video + photo if Iām doing something wrong when imaging Saturn or if Iām having terrible luck with seeing conditions (Canadas finest)
Seeing does look fairly bad, which might be just because its low on the horison.
Why are you stacking 100% of your frames? Should be closer to 15-50%ish, try looking at the green line graph in autostakkert to see how the quality drops off.
Also the stacked image will look garbage until you sharpen it in registax
Oh okay and I donāt think Iām actually stacking 100% of the frames while on Autostakkert. Just to clarify when stacking frames on AS!3 I need to select normalize stack and then choose a percentage? Because Iām just confused about the option right above it saying āFrame percentage to stackā as I have that at 100. (In the image) and when I put the image into registax I find the sharpening doesnāt bring out any detail on the planet, it just kind of makes the blurriness worse and creates artifacts.
yes the 100 in the greenbox is the percentage of frames you stack. The other three boxes on the right just allow you to stack other % of frames at the same time. I usually do 15,25 and 50 But have a look at the green graph. Also i think you'd want to untick normalise stack, pretty sure that just stretches the images so they are a similar brightness.
also also, windows key + shift + s then copy paste into discord to take a screenshot of any area of your screen. How does the green graph look like in AS? I think the issue with registax is that the 100% stack is just garbage, since it includes all the bad frames
š I havenāt been using that this whole time lol, guess Iāll have to go back and reprocess some old data. And I donāt have discord on my laptop that does the processing so if you donāt mind I can take a cropped image of the graph for you.
(Not cropped because I took it while on discord, my bad)
Just did the smaller stacking size and you were right š„², welp Iāll have to reprocess stuff for sure now
Indeed what LMC said, though an ADC will likely improve your images more than a different camera
I can handle 3750 with a res of 640
But Iāll need more fl for more details so Iād also need more fl
Is there a reason to upgrade a 224 to a 585 for the sensor alone?
585 has a larger fov and smaller pixels so youād be closer to good sampling, but ADC would help with atmospheric dispersion which especially during the start of planetary season is useful to have an ADC for. Not sure what latitude youāre at but for me the highest any planet gets is around 60° and I always use an ADC.
I live in Romania
Here Jupiter gets at a max of 66°
Is my 3750fl enough, should I buy a bigger Barlow lens?
Adcs typically increase focal length by a factor of 1.5 so you'd be around 5600mm. It's a good FL but I feel like you can go a bit more with a 12". However if you do not have GoTo, hand tracking at this FL is going to be difficult
So you say that I should buy an ADC and stick with the 224?
Well, it may be worth upgrading your camera soon as well since you can probably use larger fov
Sorry half asleep typing
XD
Yea, Iād love some larger fov
I use 640x400 to get 300fps
But tracking can be difficult
At 1300x900 I only get around 100fps
Yeah, also I don't know if you need 300 fps, typically I shoot below 100 fps for Saturn
Really? I thought the more the better
It's good to find a balance between exposure and gain, really high fps typically means high gain and very noisy raw data
I typically stay within the 10 - 15 ms range for exposure
But it may not matter as the capture time is the same
Hereās my attempt at Saturn from a couple days ago
My first attempt at imagining mars
Yall
When I say Saturn looked good in my telescope 4mm eyepiece. I mean it look incredibly similar to this, but live


