#Planetary Imaging
1 messages · Page 24 of 1
Its oke to have the alignment process in the vid
Pipp will sort these frames out
True but I think before I’ve gotten artifacts because it takes a weird blurry Jupiter but I’ll take note of that for next time
ZWO asi585mc
Or bad seeing or not sharpened enough
kk so a astrocam:D
Do u use sharpcap or firecapture?
U can set the filenames to contain date and time in utc and make these winjupos compatible
With that, u could do multible 2min recordings and get these all derotated
Firecapture as sharpcap isn’t easily available on Mac
kk, its bettee as I heard too anyways
Search on google to make ur files winjupos compatible if u got problems in finding it
Or better, watch a vid
Also about ur artifact problem u mentioned, could be an issue with the exposure being too low maybe, I had that problem a few times
Will google that now, and I’ll create that google drive and I think it was because of my autorecentering aoi on firecapture
I see the time stamp feature now, not sure if I can get that placed onto my last captures but I’ll have to check out winjipos before then
Also the google drive won’t be ready until tomorrow as for some reason it’s taking a long time to transfer the videos over
Would stacking images longer than 3 minutes not also cause motion blur?
Autostakkert can deal with up to 6 minutes on the central disc of the planet.
But the edges look a bit weird
I personally just record in 1 minute segments because then you won't have an issue with field rotation for the most part.
10 videos of 1 minute is the same as 1 video of 10 minutes in terms of SNR
It's the individual exposure times that's important to SNR
If you're into visual then sure, but for serious imaging you need a tracking version yeah
especially with the focal lengths required to maximise a 16".
Is this for all versions of AS?
AS!3 and 4, not sure about 2
My discord is glitching but is there much of a difference if I upgrade from AS3 to 4?
4 is better at most things so I recommend updating yeah
Sounds good! And do you think if I restack my data through as4 it would improve my most recent Jupiter image?
No, It's the same algorithms as far as I'm aware. It's just got much faster processing and an improved surface alignment for lunar/solar close ups.
Oh okay sounds good 👍, and because you’re the goat of planetary, do you have any tips on how to improve my images? I’m currently using an Orion XT8, Celestron 2x X-Cel Barlow and ZWO ASI585MC. I do also have a adc but haven’t gotten around to trying it out yet and I’ve gotten out before Jupiter gets too low
Touch overexposed in the recent image, but otherwise looks decent. Would recommend using the ADC regardless of altitude. Only above 70° is it not really needed.
I've noticed benefit at 60
Even this one is overexposed? Just curious and sounds good I’ll watch some videos on how to properly use it
G channel looks ever so slightly clipped
I just feel that it's overall blurry. Like water pastel
Seeing related most likely. Collimation looks good
I swear, AS4 is drunk
force rggb
How do I fix that?
Was it overexposed during capture?
Also would anyone be willing to look at my data and try stacking it?
I can if it's not a ridiculously big download
I don’t really think so, I used fire capture and exposure was at 2.5 ish and gain was at 300-400 ish so maybe it’s over exposed but it didn’t look too bad
And the data should be a couple gigs like 7-11 ish
Does clipped mean the histogram goes too far off to the right. So in this instance it is the green histogram. So data is lost?
But I can just choose a few videos not all of them if that helps
Yeah, just means some pixels are saturated, i.e 256/256 or 65536/65536 levels for 8-bit/16-bit respectively. >=100% histogram.
Lost data
Do you have the .txt files?
with capture settings
post it here
Yep and just drag them into this chat?
ye
Didn't mean all of them, but it's fine 
Oh whoops lol
Yeah, you're underexposed during capture (which is good). Did you use registax by any chance for sharpening?
yep registax 6
Ok, so you need to normalise at 55%-75% in AS!3/4 upon stacking. As your capture histogram was around 35% from those txt files, Registax auto-stretches them (don't ask me why). For some reason if the brightest pixels are under half saturation (<50%), it auto stretches the tiff and overexposes stuff when you sharpen.
check this
or just use Astrosurface and that fixes it also
I usually go for a normalisation of 65% in AS!4 when I stack
Okay sounds good I'll try 60% on AS3 and then i will download AS!4 and re-try it again
AS!3 will work the same. AS!4 isn't much different
I still say that it's drunk in my recent lunar stacks
sounds good and then is there anything i need to specifically do in registax? except for sharpening and histogram?
I would use longer exposures btw. 35% isn't the brightest image
I aim for around 75% when I'm capturing. Firecapture has a live histogram so you can roughly tune it.
Not really. Sharpen, RGB align (can be done in AS!3 instead), then maybe auto colour balance.
Oh okay I’ll have to take a look at that next time I capture
Thank you for the help
Starting 60% normalize stack with RGB align in AS!3 so let’s see how it turns out
@somber stratus just finished stacking and put it into registax and the image looks slightly better but I feel like the image is a little more blurry so I have to sharpen a little more to bring out some details
The normalisation only changes the brightness. Nothing else
oh okay, here's the stacked image, I know its over sharpened but i feel like without the sharpening you miss out on a lot of good details.
Perfect thank you again
Currently modding a webcam so my friend who's starting out can do some basic planetary
I got it at goodwill for five bucks (the tape is to cover the sensor until i get the 1.25 inch adapter)
When using an adc on a dob where should I set as the null point. In line with the tube?
so left and right movements should be level in the eyepeice
What can a Webcam do as a planetary camera? Is it worth it to buy one cheap and do that?
well it does really well
Any images that you mave have/have taken with one?
but a planetary cam is better since you can do a bit of deepsky with it
Because my cellphone did ok for me, as shown in my pfp, but I wanted know if it'd be worth it to upgrade at a cheaper price
here you go
one sec
@serene laurel heres everything
all taken with a webcam and a 114aperture and 900mm fl scope untracked
Definetly impressive! What Webcam do you recommend?
well i have only ever used a logitech C270webcam
Also, how would I adapt it to my telescopes focuser/eyepeice holder?
i just modified my old phone adapter
ill sho
So it still requires there to be an eyepeice?
Probably a stupid question
But the phone holder part makes sense
well the jupiter at lower magnifications are without eyepiece just the cam
the higher mag ones are with 4mm eyepiece and arlow
Ok, so it becomes like using a dslr camera. Just have to be able to achieve focus. Any issues there?
yes exactly no furthur issues
but i would recommend a higher resolution cam
Makes sense, was it modified at all?
just the small lens removed
Also, would there be any different results trying to it with the lens?
Like a 10mm or 6mm
the object will be dimmer when done with eyepiece
At the moment, I've used a 20mm with a 2x barlow because the 20mm is better, but it worked for my cellphone
not much but it wount focus without lens at 25mm eyepiece
yess it would work
if you have a similar scope
I think I'll try getting a better lens than what I have, then try both options eventually. My phone cam has done well, but this sounds intriguing!
130mm/650 focal length. So f/5
It should be ok id think
oohh idk if it will reach focus
someone must have your scope ataached to a dslr
Probably use something like a barlow if that's the case.
Yeah. Considering that issue happens with DSLRs and newtonians, I've heard barlows can fix it
Even if it's as simple as a 1.5x
ok
But I currently only have a 2x. I do have a 3x too, but it's very poor.
So who knows. Maybe I'll try it
Thanks for your help, it's pretty cool process it sounds like
the 2x is good uality?
its fun
it will be a bit difficult to point to a object first time due to high mag
From my standards, yeah, it provided a clear image that I could focus on. I took this image with the barlow and a 20mm lens
NICE
your phone has done incredibly good
Yeah. From what I was in 2022 (this was taken in November of 23) it was a large improvement
This server was probably the biggest contribution to my improvement. Even still, I want to get a 6mm lens and try it out
But with Jupiter falling out of season, I think I'll move to Saturn next
yess
Which, when is saturn "in season"?
I've never truly gotten a good understanding of seasons. All I know is when they're out of season, imaging isn't the greatest
So when would that be?
i guess june
I asked in #🤓-ask-a-nerd , guess we'll find out eventually.
yess
Saturn's about as far out of season as it possibly can be at the moment. It's reaching solar conjunction tomorrow.
Depending on your latitude, the 24-25 season starts around June '24, peaks in early September '24, and ends in Jan '25.
I recommend downloading Stellarium on PC/laptop. Shows everything you need to know if you have a play.
Currently trying to get a new pc as my current one is old, from the early 2010s, any info about marsM
?
Stellarium has older versions and it's not demanding at all to run. Mars-M (IMX290)?
Decent but becoming outdated. I'd probably go for the Mars-M ii (IMX462) over it.
I bet, but recently my computer has had a big decline in speed and I think is about dead.
That old i5 processor is not handling it
Just a quick feasibility check but how hard is it to convert a normal 12” dob into goto with onstep
Buying from new to building a "project" is a vastly different scenario to comment on. As a person that has a 24" HO dob with a designed and manufactured Onstep goto system that is good to use, and also a person that owns a 16" HO dob that I built a shonky Equatorial platform for to image with. I suggest that you buy a good quality Equatorial platform that is bigger than your scope set up now, this will cover you imaging needs and allow you to upgrade later if you choose.
Whats that black smudge in the center, maybe an eclipse?
I need some help and/or inspiration for the name of my new web based planetary image stacker service/software (in the cloud). It's currently called "Cloud Stacker" internally, but that sounds like you can stack pictures of clouds. Which we actually do not want. We want clear skies.
Any ideas?
Biscuit Planetary Image Stacker? (BPIS)
Planetary Image Cloud Stacker? (PICS)
BiscuitInsight?
BiscuitStakkert?
Ha yeah fair point.
Does that explain everything though? I like the shortness.
It's gonna be open source so we could also make it "our" planetary stacking software. As long as it helps beginners getting started with astrophotography I'm happy
Are you planning to use js to stack on the users machine? Sending multiple GB size files and actually stacking them would get pretty expensive if you wanted to do it server side.
It currently works as follows:
- use ffmpeg.js to convert any list of file or movie to separate PNG's
- Use a web worker in the browser to rank all frames
- Only send the best frames to the server
- Stack on the server
- postprocessing in the client with webworkers and webassembly
I also hope to implement stacking in the client, but that code is "too much" for me to understand now.
Also, I'm pretty new to this myself even. I don't know how many frames people generally use when stacking planet images. Do people stack 2000 images for Jupiter? etc et.
Oh and it's 8bit! Because the internet is 8bit images. I could do all tasks in the background om 16 bit data, and present the results in 8bit, and then in the end you can always download the 16bit processed image. But that's for the future. (and then you upload the 16bit image to astrobin and it's 8bit again, o well...)
A rule of thumb for planetary is as many frames as possible in ~120 seconds. I'm limited to 30fps so I can only do a max of ~4k frames, pretty sure you could do 4 times that with an astrocam. That said the target audience for this will probably use phones and take compressed video anyway, so I have no idea what they'd actually try to stack.
how do you plan to deal with server costs and the like?
Yeah it's aimed at beginners indeed
A cheap server I bought was super fast with small jobs, I would have to do tests IRL. I'm also thinking about running a node as a community thing. Just like SETI@Home, some of us could join as stacker-node to help out stacking.
So if your powerful desktop pc is not doing anything, it could stack 1000 images for a beginner from alicante, spain.
I could use some additional data to test btw. I've tested with recent jupiter and mars data from #1021002743080558642, but if someone has more (heavy) stuff, I would really like to test!
for something aimed at beginners and such using phones i woulda just made it a phone app, might take a bit tho
Just whatever you do, make sure to limit the amount of frames they can submit for the moon. There WILL be people who try to stack their 20 minute 4k videos of the moon while its 50x50 pixels in frame.
I think currently moon and sun won't work anyway. Unless it's not a mozaic. I also think their browser will crash before it even manages to send the data to my server 😄
I could definitely look at that. maybe it already works in the phones browser. Or I just turn it into an app with Cordova etc.
Oh good point btw, maybe I should auto-crop each frame in the client.
While I do think that 3000pixels that are black can be stored very optimal in PNG's, without loosing detail.
i mean if its all black then you could use jpeg or gif even
"oh no, the void is being compressed"
PNG will also be smart about it without adding artefacts, jpeg will make it crappy
hehe
I'm also considering adding dumb features like "Add IO to this stack". So you can fake IO on Mars
i guess if the backround isnt perfectly black then yeah png would work best
It's 3,2,3,2,3,3,3,2,2,3,3,2 here mostly
You'd think mister biscuit would like to promote this thing if it's any good? Or maybe even put his name on it?
Is there someone with some hi-res hi-quality raw image or video data of a planet or so? Looking to stress test the thing!
This isn't exactly high res but if you put these into pipp to output raw avi it will explode the filesize. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1l2rqRG-lVbH5ItGo0Hg81ca2Wb_bukqf?usp=sharing the avi file is ~3 minutes of jupiter where I handtrack the whole thing, so it would be a good stress test for auto crop in the future. videos in folders are intended to be combined in pipp for one output file. All are compressed due to me shooting with a DSLR, at least it saves time uploading/downloading the data.
Which percentage or number of images where in the final stack when you created a stacked and processed result?
and thanks!
I roughly use 15-25% since my seeing is terrible but I do need more data to get the noise low enough. I usually look at the graph in autostakkert to see what % to keep, since at somepoint there is a significant drop in quality of frames.
Yeah picking that significant drop position can also be automated for beginners I think.
I don't have noise reduction implemented yet, but this weirdly cropped saturn is what my tool currently has to offer 🙂
(based on out_154.avi)
Poor Saturn
Yeah I believe an EQ platform is the best way to go
Thanks for your advice
What about a diy eq platform?
I’m very unlikely to get a bigger don than I have now
thats what im thinking, its likely an eclipse
I’m sure I can find something from the better nights I’ve had with the 16”
There is a good chance whatever programming language the server-side stacking algorithm is written in can be ported to the client-side via WebAssembly.
https://github.com/appcypher/awesome-wasm-langs?tab=readme-ov-file#awesome-webassembly-languages-
I doubt you've had anything less than better with that
Yep! At least ffmpeg and the postprocessing is in wasm now.
I don't really suggest that to people because i don't know what kind of DIY skill they have. If you think you can make one have a go at it. It not that hard you just need to have some level of detail when making the Vertical Segments. My 16" HO dob fits on the platform i made for the 10" GSO clone so just make it a little bigger and all will be ok
Damo
I haven’t got any experience with a similar large project involving wood work but I have got some electronic experience. I do have a router, jigsaw and other wood working tools tho and I my father does have a lot of experience with woodwork so he can help with the precision required to manufacture the curve for the Vertical Segments.
Thanks for such detailed advice
Just to confirm the null position for the levers on the adc should be inline with the horizon seen through the eyepiece for me I used a roof of a house as it should be level right?
Correct
My Omegon ADC works like this, but my ZWO one is weirdly 45° offset from horizontal.
You have two ADCs? What do you do, super-correction? 😆
That is weird
Omegon is for Venus as it has higher UV transmission (my old one), and the ZWO has less spacing so it reduces the power of my 3x barlow a little - slightly better optically.
If I want to get a decent image of Venus I'm going to have to spend a few bucks on a filter, aren't I.
Not necessarily.
What scope do you have again
Orion 8"/1000mm
I'm thinking if I want to see clouds or any form of detail. All I've been able to image is a white ball.
What filters have you used previously?
Currently shooting w/o filter - but all I have right now is UVIR cut
Yeah, you won't get much with that. You can either go the route of Violet/Blue filters, or UV.
UV is more expensive, but also delivers the most contrast. It's quite noisy though
What would you suggest?
I'd start with Violet as it's pretty cheap. Stack any Wratten #47 violet filter with an IR cut filter.
Problem is these pass both UV, Violet/blue and IR, hence the IR cut is needed to block the unwanted IR
You can get special IR-only cutting filters as to pass all the UV. Example is one I ordered recently to test out: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004391282565.html
I take it an 80A filter won't fit the bill
Probably not, but the 47 isn't exactly expensive.
£9 here
Or you just bite the bullet and get a UV filter like the Photometric (U)BVRI from Baader.
I've already summoned the clouds by ordering some solar equip
But whatever 9 GBP translates to in USD, prob not bad
its like $12
@somber stratus I know you are really good at processing, can you help me derotate images?
I always seem to get this black and white line (this is ken's data)
What does your outline frame look like?
Wait
& what time difference between images are you trying to derotate?
anything over ~15-20m will start to have artefacting
3 minutes
Ill sharpen it first ig
Yeah sorry for wasting your time but i just realized i have to sharpen it first
Now it doesn't have any artifacts
Yeah, sharpen first should help
allows a more accurate alignment too
If you need any more data to practice, give me a shout and I can give some of mine.
I am putting my adc in front of my camera then 3x Barlow and uv/ir cut. The spacing provided by the adc makes me think I’m oversampling as when I sharpen nothing changes that much or I get artifacts. It was also trash seeing. Should I try reduce the spacing?
What does this derotation mean btw? Does it just make the equator straight from left to right? Or is it to work with the fast rotation/winds of Jupiter to not make it blurry if you have data for a long period?
What derotation does is take multiple images of a planet, that were ostensibly taken over a long stretch of time, and stacking them in a way that the rotation of the planet is counteracted. For example, when I imaged Jupiter over 45 minutes on Dec 6 2023 the GRS moved to the right and Io moved off screen. Stacking the entire set would have blurred the GRS and Io. Derotation finds a center point, and allows the best of all the stacks to be used, to create a clear single final image.
@somber stratus, @dark cargo @high hull Hey guys, you've shown some interest (or at least responded to me 🙂 ) into my PICS project (Planetary Image Cloud Stacker). I have a pre-alfa version ready for a few test-runs if you like. I don't feel like sharing the URL publicly yet, because I'm afraid of the thing breaking. I don't have enough experience with Discord, but can we just have a private thread with the 4 of us in it or something?
You can make a private group chat - I’m not sure about a thread that’s private
Are you okay with being in that? 😄
yeah, if the others are
ye
Still enough work to do for some files :).
@fathom oak that is a good sign
it's supposed to be clear tonight
Let’s go
supposed to be 46% cloud cover at 6pm and 8% cover at 7pm
sunset at 6:30
I haven't gotten a good image in months
same for me
wait if I leave the dust cover off for it to acclimate will my mirror get dirty?
i think not, at night you also have the cover off right?
or are you imaging some black shit
lol
but hope for you birds dont go shit on it
I saw some low flying birds leave shit 15 feet from my setup on neighbors shed

I think they were geese too
they went on a bombing run
LMFAOO yeah. God it was so much too
If that had gotten on optics it woulda been near game over
Disgusting cleanup
They’re practicing, watch out they might start a war
Canadian Geese? They're known AH's.
Reprocessing some files
8"?
Yes
Crazy
Didn't you have a QHY462?
I've sold
Why
does anyone know how to get fine details like this on the suns corona during an eclipse?
most shots i see look like this and the corona doesn't have all those details the other picture has
i know the first picture used HDR techniques, but what made the corona so detailed?
would a long exposure be necessary for those details in the upper corona? or lower exposure
Upper Corona as in near the sun or way out in to space?
way out
in this image for example
You need longer exposures
its pretty insane how much details is present
im gonna take a bunch of different exposure times and hopefully get a good HDR shot
thats a single shot?
Well, stack of like 20
I highly recommend buying sharpcap pro. The sequencer is great.
im probably gonna do that and set up a sequencer so i can enjoy the eclipse
im gonna make it take a bunch of different exposure lengths at the same ISO
taking a video wouldnt be better?
I did that, tried doing something last minute, enjoyed the eclipse for about 20 seconds then realised my sequencer wasn’t going
Shat my pants, then got the last few seconds of eclipse.
no way 😭 did you not practice beforehand?
im scared this happens to me lol
wow this still turned out great
I did, however stellarium lied to me about the timing of baileys beads so I had to switch over sooner than expected.
what should i do to avoid that?
should i just turn on the sequencer when i think its time for baileys beads?
Make sure your frames are saved before starting sequence. That was my issue. buffer was full.
i've never used a sequencer, whats a buffer?
It’s in all capturing, camera makes frames faster than computer can save it
Cooked, 💩
how should i do it to not get this issue on eclipse day

you think that shot is better?
Ofc
Just look on the screen. It will tell you how many frames are buffered
im gonna practice a bunch then
mmh
i wanna do that but filters not big enough
Maybe I don't like it because that's what the instagram astronomers do nowadays
fair
i havent seen many proms closeups
Latest Mercury & Venus section newsletter from the BAA. Has a lot of useful info regarding Venus nightside imaging if anyone is interested.
Is this possible untracked or are exposures too long?
Bit of both
What I would do is I would take 1 second exposures and just stack it
Huh?
Outer corona needs long exposures. Inner shorter.
Oh okay, nice, so I should be able to get some then but how long for outer?
Asking this cuz im selling my mount
Like 1-5” with a few degree fov.
Ah, then I should be fine
Hi all. I'm working on a cloud based planetary image stacking website. It works pretty well already and got some feedback from @somber stratus, in the screenshots I use Mars data from him . I want to move towards the next phase and test with more people. Who is interested? Please DM me and help me break this thing!
I've got a few stacks laying around. Some good, some yikes.
Sent you a PM with the link
I’m interested if you’re still looking for more participants
I'm sure he'd be interested, I've found a few ways to make it go "wut" 😆
yeah would be great to get this thing stable
Pfff, I asked ChatGPT to improve the About text for PICS:
<h2>About PICS - Planetary Image Cloud Stacker</h2>
<p>PICS is the first web-based online planetary image stacking tool available in the solar system.
=>
<h2>About PICS - Your Cloud-Based Planetary Imaging Partner</h2>
<p>PICS stands as the solar system's premier web-based planetary image stacking solution.
i have an celestron c14 and i use the zwo asi 224mc for planetary imaging with 2x barlow.
Is it worth upgrading to a newer/better planetary camera for better results? or should i keep this
Maybe a 585, but 224 isn't terrible
i know but it was my first planetary camera and im ready to upgrade.
and are player one cameras good?
Yeah
Better than ZWO in my opinion.
Many of us here use the Uranus-C
D Peach also uses one from time to time having spoken to him about it.
He said it's on-par with mono R,G,B filter imaging.
i looked at that one
thats pretty cool!
Neptune-C 664 is also good. Same specs as the Uranus-C but smaller sensor
cheaper slightly
i also saw the saturn-m but its way to expensive
gonna check it out. are there some important specs where i have to look out for? besides fps?
FPS is rarely an issue. As long as it's USB3, you can use a suitable ROI to get sufficient fps.
But QE mainly
and maybe full-well, read noise
Neptune 664C VS Uranus-C
Full Well 38.5K e- 47K e-
R. Noise 6.1e~0.67e 6.5-0.7e
Qe peak 91% 91%
Megapixel 4.2MP 8.3MP
i think the uranus-c is alot better right?
comparable
the diffrence is sensor size
full well is sorta useful, but not really. you record in 8 bit.
uranus c has higher resolution. but when both cropping to lets say 640x480. does the uranus c also lose more detail?
the resoloution is the same?
neptune has 2704*1540 and uranus c has 3856×2180
im not the best in understanding this btw
ooh right! gotcha
Yeah I mean 99% of the time. It's useful for some applications when running 16-bit
i.e Uranian rings and Venus NS
but for the majority of applications full well is irrelevant
Deep space is where it really stands out
yup
i went with the uranus-c. thanks guys! now its waiting for new planet season
wait what 
I never shot 8 bit lol
Can you actually get the Uranian rings from an earth-based telescope?
Tom has done it
His question still applies (tom isn't human)
Tom may actually have a telescope in orbit
Yeah, a few of us amateurs have managed it.
Martin Lewis, myself, among others
Should I use it with an uv/ir cut filter?
Yes, the 585 is pretty good at picking up longer wavelengths and since longer wavelengths cannot focus in as small of a point you'd lose some details if you don't block them with the uv-ir cut filter.
Thanks!
has anyone had a problem with registax here not opening some functions like gamma stuck in minimised mode?
why are my images not sending D:
discord issues
I also have this issue. RGB align is stuck for me. I just switched to astrosurface
Do you find astrosurface is better than the traditional pipp-autostakkert-registax method?
I’m too inexperienced with astrosurface to accurately compare. I made the switch last month. I like it though, seems to work well for me
Registax was auto-stretching my data, which I didn’t like. Astrosurface doesn’t
You have to reset the UI in the top left, I can't remember off the top of my head what's its under but that is some general direction
There isn't much dynamic range to capture and the "brightness precision" you loose on single frames is nothing when you stack thousands of them so you better go with the faster fps of 8 bit
What is better
Televue 2x barlow
Or x cel 3x
With a 12” dob
And a ceres c imx224
Televue is probably a bit better optically but it doesnt matter because the X-Cel isnt going to bottleneck you, id go for the X-Cel just for the extra focal length
Is it possible to unscrew or disassemble the x-cel barlows or are they glued together? Was wondering if it would be possible to get the lens cell from one and screw it directly into a camera for less than 2-3x magnification.
I believe it yes. But not sure. I have one but never tried it
3x X-Cel due to sampling
224 has 3.75 micron pixels so you need a decent focal length
Possible? Maybe? Something that falls readily into the realm of "would recommend"? I hesitate.
I once unscrewed my 5x Barlow. Regretted it. Got great images even after but I wonder to this day how much that impacted my image quality.
Yes, it's possible (at least with the 2x)
Would a 5x barlow be better? But I would have to buy an Eq platform to be able to use the scope at such a high fl
I've unscrewed my x-cel and nothing noticeable happpened
I'm just indicating my experience. You can chalk it up to "I'm not comfortable enough to do it."
Lol yea
Anyone gonna try the Venus and Saturn conjunction?
There's decent distance from the sun
when is it?
It's actually now
goddamn it
About 20 arcmins apart
nvm my scope would be too narrow
thats true
haven't done planetary or anything in a while
also its below the horizon for me lol
I wanna try imaging INA
Would it be possible with 130/900 newtonian and ASI224MC
Also its full moon and the seeing is average
No
What res do you need to capture it?
Possible with a 224 and a 12” dob?
I mean there is no harm in trying so imma try
with a 12" and a ceres-c camera
first time imaging the moon with this setup
looks decent
Yes but the thing is it’s not good to attempt to image it during full moon, rather it’s better to image it when the terminator is a bit closer
Plus it would look better
very possible
well
not possible if u dont have barlow
its def possible 8” and up
Possible
But here needs more res
some mercury data, if someone wants to process them
here is what I managed to get
with a 12" dob and ceres-c camera + gso 2.5x barlow + uv ir cut filter
my first time imaging this planet, turned out decent
No i swear my 5 inch scope and my asi224mc work perfect in harmony and the res is perfect. TRUST ME LEMME TRY IMAGING INA
And how do I get more res?
more barlow(and good seeing). Assuming its an F5 scope, you could use a 4x one, as long as the seeing supports it the telescope should be able to deliver it. But using a small sensor will make it harder unless your finder is well aligned.
Ok, what barlow do you recommend?
I have a gso 2.5x
that should work, you can extend it to 4x with some extension tubes. more distance between barlow and sensor = more powerful barlow
I did but I cant reach focus
Ah thats harder. You could try to see if you can unscrew the part with the glass from the barlow tube, might be some way to screw it onto the camera or get an extension tube that can be put between the lens and barlow tube.
Not sure what else you could do other than flip the focuser's 1.25" tube holder thing around. If possible not sure what focuser you have.
These are my extension tubes, the first one works the other one doesn’t
The barlow can be unscrewed like this
Ah I think you could buy something like a 1.25" tube extensions assuming that is a filter thread(~28.5mm diameter). or you could screw it directly into the camera?
No, it can’t be
This is the focuser that I have
@dark cargo I did this, do you think that it will work
I think the extension tube is too thick? but it might since the camera is further away.
I usually use it like this
guys, what is the best way to stack and process your lunar imaging data? Do you have some softwares and some tutorials that could help me?
If untracked, use pipp then autostakkert and then sharpen in registax. If tracked skip pipp
Also is it full disk?
Ngl I just play around with the wavelet sliders until it looks good. Also RGB balance too and sometimes de-ringing is good for moon as it get rid of bright edges on craters.
in autostackert, do you use the normalise stack feature ?
here is an image that I've just processed, any tips ?
I have no idea srry. Images look good though
Maybe a bit more sharpening
How do I stop Autostakkert from making these artifacts?
The histogram isn't even clipped
Try rotating it by 90° when extracting frames
Use bigger ap grids, like 104 works very nice I find
I did
They got worse
Every ap grid size makes artifacts everywhere
Same with dark-sensitivity placing or whatever it's called. I tried lowering it and the edges were still cutting off
Show me a autostakkert screenshot
I deleted them. Why would that matter anyways?
I wanna see
That's not a reason 
I must see
Here's what the edges look like. Sorry that's all I have left :(
i dunno crop it out and pretend it doesn't exist
It’s a lot to crop from a good place imo
send raw?
you dont need a barlow to see Ina for 8” and above
you would need like 4/5 seeing though but its possible
Best I could get. I also said it's all I have left
I got Ina with dslr and native FL recently
Lmfao
Alr
What pixel scale?
Hello guys
Today there will be a iss pass and I wanna image it
I have a 12” dob, imx224 and gso2.5x barlow
Any tips
Barlow or no barlow
What setting should I use
I saw that @somber stratus has some great pics ( sorry for ping )
I think use similar setting to when you are imaging the moon. I would use no Barlow to start if manually tracking
Use a Barlow, what software are you using?
ISS is much brighter than the moon. I'd expose for about 20% of the Moon's brightness imho @cloud copper
hard to give settings without a reference image. You'll just have to guess first time around. I'd go 1-millisec @ 150-200gain with the barlow, and 1-millisec @ 100 gain without.
ish
Ok sounds good
Ima send the results here
But don’t expect much since it’s my first time and the seeing is bad
Like a 1.7/5
Really windy
Processing now
Let’s hope I get some good results
@somber stratus should I export the video in TIFF or Avi
Recorded in ser
you can process in SER
but if you want to upload a video here you need to convert to AVI then to MP4 in Photoshop or another application.
Ok
Nice. Much better than my first attempt.
Focus maybe slightly off, but otherwise good with exposure.
Yea, noticed that the focus was a bit off
I need to buy a bahtinov mask and an optical finder scope
The red dot isn’t as accurate
why bahtinov
hey guys around what magnification would i need to see the bands of jupiter pretty well?
I've started developping a deconvolution app (mainly for fun) and I tried it on some of Ken's data and was quite surprised to see the results with a simple guessed moffat profile
It basically runs real time and I'll soon add an airy disk profile
That's the power of maths ;)
Congrats on red nerd btww!
I'll add support for regularization (probably Tikhonov) so it might be better at preserving snr in low detail areas
Tho this data is too good to need it
math is fun when it does super cool stuff like this
if anyone want to try it
I don't recommend it for now
Also you need arrayfire runtime installed (about 3 gigs), I'll change that in the future
i will be comparing it to blurx immediately
Slow down haha it's only the beginning of the beginning
Tomorrow I'll add all the regularization stuff to reduce star ringing and noise amplification
And next step is an NN to extract psf
Hello nerds, finally made it here ))
This is really interesting, do you have any plans of making it open source eventually?
Oh I thought he stopped doing it
Well I'd 'love to buy my code is just unreadable 
When I'll refractor my 1000s lines files I'll definitely do that
It will be free anyway
if the compiler can read it, so can we(not stating a timeframe through...). I'd say its definetly a good idea, otherwise you could have a similar situation as with PIPP: dead website, no source code so no one can really improve it without a lot of effort.
That's a good idea indeed
I'll clean it up at least a bit and make a git repo
Most of the code is for the ui (I absolutely hate doing uis)
I'll probably try some of the methods they recommend in this article, this results are absolutely crazy
It handles noise, clipped pixels and crazy psfs really well while remaining simple
The deconvolution itself also stays classic Richardson Lucy so it stays really" authentic "
Should I bother to image the iss if its highest point is at 58°?
If it's above 45°, I'd say it's worth it.
man, I'm so sad rn XD
my capture failed in the middel of the capture
hopefully I still got some good data
here is tonights iss
looks ok in my opinion
Im sad that I lost some of the data (
Nice improvements, you got the little sections from the white reflecting panels as well as shapes of the modules
Yea
I bet I’ll get even more details in the weekend
What kind of artefact is this? Got it all over my recent moon mosaic and can’t tell what’s causing it
What are you using to stack?, it may be from the process you are using.
I used AS!3, used pretty large APs to avoid artefacts

Hey @wispy pagoda want to work together?
What’s this?
is the celestron 2x barlow worth it?
My Celestron plain Barlow hasn't given me issues, and if you're getting the LX the 2x or 3x are $100 so go for the 3x unless your needs are strictly 2X
ISS pass over
you can get the xcel for a good price on aliexpress if you dont mind buying from there
To you have any tips/pointers on how to capture it?
Yea
Go for a really slow shutter speed, like 1ms
And the iso like a 100-200
Depending on your setup
Make sure that your focus is perfect
And that your finder scope is very well aligned
Looks like drizzle stuff. And try as4.
As debayer is weird too. It drizzles with the bayer. Which is normally good except when it gets confused
Debayer in pipp
Oh yeah why not!
Wow such a detailed image! Did u use a 24 inch telescope?
Moon non stacked Nikon p950 no telescope
Venus with Nikon p950 no telescope
@somber stratus how do you get such a high fl on your scope by using just a 3x barlow? Does the adc add to the fl ?
adc is a spacer so it increases focal length
with my setup (same camera and im pretty sure ADC, 2x xcel) it adds about 1.55x. so my 2x barlow becomes 3.55x
Yeah ADC acts as a spacer when placed between barlow and camera as LMC says. Pushes me to 4.5x
So my 2.5x barlow will become a 4x?
Cool
So should I buy an x-cell 3x if I have a gso 2.5x? Is it better?
Not necessarily. Depends on native f/ratio and camera pixel size
Works better for my setup, sure. 2.9um pixels with f/4.4 native
Certainly not 3x + ADC, unless you get a different camera with 2.9 micron pixels like me
nevermind, i'm stupid
Was thinking the other way around. Yeah 3x + ADC is good
You need around f/26
so ~5x
Good, thanks
But first I should buy an Eq platform, I bet it’s hard to track the planets manually at f/26
ZWO ADC lets you get ~4.5x, Omegon/Stellalyra ADC gets to 4.8x
for sure
Which one is better ?
Optically they are both fine. I've used both and got very close to diffraction limit
The latter ones get you closer to the 5x, so I'd probably just go for those
cheaper too
You can figure out the focal length you are at by measuring how many pixels across a planet is. just grab its current angular diameter from stellarium or somewhere else. https://www.astropix.com/html/astrophotography/astrophotography-calculators.html#effosi
Calculators for Astrophotography
WinJupos does it nicely once you have an image with the setup. That's how I work out that I'm at specifically 8090mm for instance
Just use the outline frame there
But if you use the X-Cel 3x and either of the ADCs I mentioned, it'll be the same as mine.
4.5x and 4.87x respectively
ZWO / Omegon
6750mm / 7300mm FL
I’ll go for the omegon if it gives me more fl
Does anyone have tips on how to capture the iss with a manual scope?
@somber stratus did you ever image jupiter in methane, and if yes then is it worth getting another filter
i'm thinking about combining it with rgb
I've done plenty of CH4 yeah. https://www.astrobin.com/ts8wtm/
for false colour, RGB isn't all too useful. Other IR passes are the best for that
ok, thanks
then what should i combine it with?
Other IR passes
742+ works, as does RG610
I explain what Lyaphine & I did in the AB post above
Is CH4 plus IR?
Says the palette we used in the description.
Your planetary imaging skills, are Nasa level good
it amazes me every time you post
new ISS image, this one isn't so good, I was kinda out of focus, I was focusing in a hurry because the ISS was visible and I didn't have all of my things optimised(settings, focus, finderscope)
Are you kidding that’s amazing!
Thanks, but could have been better in my opinion
That still brilliant did you hand track
Yea
Nice
I’ve gotten better at hand tracking since my last attempts
Is the Neptune-c II a good camera for planetary?
Found it second hand at a decent price
Yep, one of the goats
Which lenses are best for planetary imaging
You usually don't image with an eyepiece, unless when using a phone in which case any plossl should be fine. but you'd probably still have some things like chromatic abberation from the phone lens.
If using a DSLR or astrocam you'd want a decent barlow.
I don't really know that much about phone planetary, but you'd want to get 1:1 video(1 pixel on sensor = 1 pixel in video aka picture and video should have the planet be a similar diameter in pixels). and you'd want each pixel to see a distance of roughly 1/3rd of the dawes limit of the scope.
Plossl and X-Cel barlows worked pretty good for me
X2 x3 x5???
3x
For planets?
Yeah
Oh alr then i already got one
I used to do planetary phone astrophotography
Surprised you even found one second hand
Usually people keep them
Ig
It’s 1400 lei
And a Uranus c is 2500 if I buy it from a Romanian website
But 1500 lei if I buy it from Player one
I’d just get a new one
Barely 10% more from P1
I’d look into the Neptune 664 also
That’s better than the C-II
But is Uranus c better that Neptune 664?
If you look at the performance of the pixels, no. It’s just a smaller sensor.
Just as good in the majority of cases
Uranus-C just has a little more FoV and passive cooling
If you were to buy a camera now, which one would you choose?
I think the 664. When I got my Uranus-C, the 664 didn’t exist
Although I still think the Uranus is worth it.
I like the extra FoV
Yeah if I were you, I’d 100% go for the 664
Nice, but should I buy the camera first and wait on the Eq platform ? Or the other way around?
I’d probably go for the EQ first since you have a 224
Then you can at least use a longer focal length with the Neptune 664 when you get it
Hand tracking you’ll notice little benefit
I have to have a decent setup until summer, when the planetary season comes
12” dob
Neptune c
Eq platform
3x barlow x cell
Adc omegon
Uv ir cut filter
Do I need anything else ?
Not particularly. Maybe an IR pass filter for poor seeing nights but that’s not “needed” per se
Does it help with the seeing? I don’t have many good seeing nights here
Can get a 685 from player one when you order the camera.
And yeah longer wavelengths are less affected by seeing.
But you lose intrinsic resolution through a worse diffraction-limit so if seeing is excellent, you won’t resolve as much as you would in visible light. It’s a trade off
Neptune c
Eq platform
Adc
Ir pass
Barlow(I already have a gso 2.5x)
From this list what should I purchase first ?
EQ, then ADC, then Neptune then IR pass imho.
Sorry, Barlow before Neptune
With ADC
Just understand that to get the most out of the Neptune 664, you’ll need a long focal length and an ADC. For that you need the EQ platform first.
You can maybe leave the barlow upgrade until after, but you definitely should get the ADC before, or with the camera
Does it make such a difference?
Oh yes. ADC is huge (unless you live near the equator)
GoTo Alt-Az
Even near the equator it still helps to have one when aiming lower than ~65 degrees.
Is 40 minutes of tracking good for an Eq platform?
Found a guy that can make me one for 200€
Yeah. Lyaphine’s lasts about that time. Having used it, it’s very manageable
Becomes slightly annoying if you want to do long time-lapses but that’s a bit of a niche
Eh, if you align it back fast it won’t be a problem ig
Yeah but the apparent rotation of the planet in the FoV changes too
@somber stratus I’ve looked in to the Neptune 664C, looks really good
But what does sensor tilt do ?
Don't need it, but it can be used to remove interference patterns in Solar H-alpha imaging.
Or fix tilt in wide DSO images, but again you won't need it for long FL planetary
Ok, good, thanks
I really don’t know how to debayer. I always get this grid artefact. What might I be doing wrong?
I use pipp to debayer. Select “debayer raw image files” and bilinear debayer algorithm
1 hour of rotation on Jupiter from back in February with my nexstar 4se and svbony sv305
Guys, do you think that it’s possible to use this goto mount on a spring telescope, like the one from omegon
No, the mating mechanism is completely different
duct tape
Oh that sucks, is there a goto version for a spring telescope ?
EQ platforms are very good but have limitations as you have discussed with Tom
I have the Neptune Cii and its great but for a little more get the 664 as discussed again
When you reset the platform just rotate the camera in the focuser 10 degrees (if its 40 minutes) and go again.
Here is the last video i have uploaded of Saturn using a planetary camera and its the Neptune Cii and the 664 is a better camera in nearly every way so you are in good hands - https://youtu.be/EzHX4lVIe7s
Scope - 16" Hubble Optics Dobsonian
Camera - PlayerOne Neptune Cii
Siebert Optics Barlow 4.6x
Optalong UV/IR cut filter
Any questions please ask
Damien
Real
Is this even possible with such a small scope ?
I bet it’s not his video
Looks too detailed for a afocal video
That's literally my clip I uploaded to my IG
lmao
stolen, very cool
Was gonna say I thought it looked familiar
Yea, I thought that it was your vid but I wasn’t sure
@somber stratus did you say something to that guy, he deleted the video 😂
yeah lmao
I said something along the lines of "This live view of Saturn is my content, not cool dude. As least make it believable with such a small aperture..."
You can’t get that amount of details, even in perfect seeing with the best camera out there, with a 4”
No
bro chill xd
maybe once
Does an ADC cause dimming like a Barlow?
If placed between the Barlow and camera then yes, because it will act as a spacer and increase the magnification of the Barlow thus increasing the focal ratio
Transmission is pretty high for the visible spectrum if you mean the ADC in and of itself. Poorer in the UV and progressively longer wavelength IR.
Regardless of transmission: setup and configuration (by which I mean "adjusting so that it does its job and improves image quality") of ADC is a complete, total, royal pain in the rear.
I disagree. Once you know the axis with which to orient it, it's relatively easy. Harder on EQ mounted setups though as the horizon line as viewed through the scope rotates with time.
Just level parallel with the ground on EQ mounts.
Only works for SCTs right?
not eq-mounted newts
Sounds like a newtonian problem. 
Fork mount + ADC would be the dream
I hear dobs are pretty good, but can’t confirm yet.
What scope do you have ?
I’ve had a FlexTube 400P since December. I’m still waiting for a good night to use it.
Tracking isn't that great tbh
good enough for planetary obviously, but not DSOs by a long shot
Do you have the aux encoders on?
I think they screw with tracking so try turning them off next time. You will lose the ability to manually aim without losing alignment but I could notice a difference in tracking.
Probably. How does one turn them off
I assume somewhere in the HC settings
Interesting. I turned them off now, curious to see how it’ll track next time
I find that the tracking does better when the object is in the south western hemisphere/when the object is past max altitude. For the most part at least the 10", the tracking fairly well in azimuth but altitude definitely lacks precision
I know what you mean. I find it also depends on what buttons you last press when aligning. I.e. up/right or down/left
I once did alignment twice, once with up/right and once with down/left, noticed a significant difference in tracking between the two. But I don’t remember which was better.. whoops
Pressing the buttons meaning actually slewing in that direction for a little before confirming alignment
Yes, also if you use the synscan app they allow 3 star alignment and I believe the encoders are off by default. When doing alignment, I use up and right exclusively I'm not sure it actually matters but I did read something about it in a forum
Yes, you're right actually
Got it
The part about Mechanical Backlash
But I have not found this to be accurate in practice
Like that one time I tested both ways
I think, like you said, it depends on whether the object has passed the meridian or not
If it’s rising or setting
Wobbly is not good though, what do you mean
Mines the opposite. Bad in azimuth. Maybe it needs relubrication or a proper bearing installed.
My 10inch is pretty dreadful sometimes. Sometimes it just stops tracking completely and I loose the planet. It also takes a while to resume tracking after I adjust the position slightly. Like a delay between tracking and moving, probably backlash.
Are you using the hc to control your scope?
Sometimes the hc cable disconnects. I think on my Dob the hc is dead so I just user synscan app on my laptop
You also may need to adjust your altitude limits
I use the WiFi unit which I find so much easier than the hand controller. Also with the altitude limits, would that be an issue as the max I have tracked is 50 degrees with it happening. Seems like it would be an issue if you close to zenith
Guys, how can I modify my dob for a dslr to reach focus without using a barlow ?
I’ve had this problem with my Astro-cam, what I did was move the primary mirror forward
How ?
The collimation screws, you turn them all in one direction to move them up or down
I would go to a star and unfocus it then see which way gets your camera focused
Might be another way but that’s how what I learned
Does it mess up the focus to eyepieces? Is there a chance that I won’t be able to use an eyepiece
Guys what’s the best ir pass filter that I can use for planetary imaging? 685, 810…
I think if your seeing is very bad 810nm is best as it’s cuts through more of the seeing. I believe it’s quite a hard decision as, correct me if I’m wrong, the longer the wavelength, the less it is effected by seeing but the resolution however decreases too.
I’m thinking that a 685 is a good option
Yep exactly, so the more seeing limited you are, the more infrared you can go
So it depends on your diameter and tipical seeing conditions
I have a 12” and I usually have a 2/5 or 3/5 seeing
aren't you using a DSLR? the stock ir cut filter on them will block everything after around 650nm, so can't really use an irpass
Here’s a live taken at 1800fl with it tracking a dob
See posts, photos and more on Facebook.
No, I have a dslr for deep sky.For planetary I use a ceres-c Imx 224
Ah in that case you'd be fine, you'd have less signal in IR but since you are using a 12" dob and unlikely at maximum sampling you should have plenty of light.
- 850 is pretty useless unless you got a massive aperture and even then if your seeing is that bad youre not gonna get a good image anyway
Than what should I choose ?
685nm
Ok
Is it better than an uv ir? And what’s the difference?
uv ir you should get/have no matter what
685nm is for poorer seeing conditions
@cloud copper do you understand the spectrum of light? The UV/IR cut filter passes the wavelength 400nm-700nm, which are the wavelengths we can see, so it produces colour images. An IR filter, say 850nm, passes wavelengths we cannot see (IR), so it will produce a monochromatic image. UV/IR Cut and an IR pass are not the same, one is not better than the other
They are used for different purposes
A 610nm pass would pass from 610nm, so it’s R+IR, the little bit of 610-700nm we would be able to see if we were to look through the filter, but higher than 700nm we cannot. This filter could be used for unfavourable seeing, but not terrible
tks Duif
So that’s the filter I want, the 685
Also it’s not a hard cutoff. We actually can see a little bit of 700+nm, and it varies from person to person. But yes essentially 400-700nm UV/IR Cuts are designed to make images that resemble what our eyes can see. But the deeper you go into the IR, the longer the wavelength, and the less it’s affected by atmospheric seeing.
Thanks duif, good info
It could be. If you also want some of the R signal for better resolution and more light you could go for the 610nm. The deeper you go into IR the lower the sensitivity of your camera, so for 685nm pass you will need to use longer exposures or gather more data
But looking at the response graph of your camera, 685nm would be quite fine
I have a 12” dob and an imx224.I usually have a 2/5 or 3/5 seeing.What filter would you recommend?
Sounds good
Do remember imaging with an IR filter will produce monochromatic images, so grayscale. You could do IR+RGB (using IR as luminosity and UV/IR image for colour data), but that doesn’t work for every planet
With Jupiter for instance it’ll throw off the colours a bit
Okay
685 is a safe bet
That looks good👌
lucky imaging of jupiter with grs
so it does float!
nooo lore inaccurate
Proof Jupiter is buoyant.
What camera?
Web cam
guys what is meant by data for derotation??
Could be Winjupos measurement files that can be used to derotate a planet like Jupiter.
Wait so how do they help???
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5BdwYpWW-s This explains it fairly well
A basic introduction to WinJupos with guest cameo from Cory Schmitz.
WinJupos :
http://jupos.privat.t-online.de
Cory :
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi1FXbnJzWqCh5s4qoxSNx80NMBJ8lk7z
https://twitter.com/TheAstroShake
Support the channel by buying Dylan's Telescopes, Cameras & Equipment using the links below!
EQUIPMENT LIST
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You're essentially stacking stacks to increase the signal to noise ratio
Allows less denoising so you retain more detail.
Do you know how I can preserve the timestamps from the video so that I don't have to manually input them in WinJUPOS?
Oh. Also. Hi.
Your capturing software should have an option to put the UTC times in the filename
Which WJ can then read
Sharpcap. It does. When I run the file through PIPP to extract frames, PIPP can't read it
Extract frames? PIPP can’t read it? PIPP doesn’t need to read anything
Yeah. With image processing, use PIPP to convert video to individual frames, send those frames through AutoStakkert. PIPP has an option to extract the date/time. Problem is whenever I've checked the box PIPP gave me a "can't get the info" error. Even though it's right there in the log for the file.
There is no need to use that option if you’ve enabled Sharpcap to format the filename in WJ style?
Also are you converting your frames to individual image files using PIPP? If so I recommend exporting as .ser or at least .avi instead
Didn't know that.
That's how I've always done it. Record as ser/avi, then run that through PIPP to get the individual images in tif format.
Why exactly?
Um. How else does one get things into AutoStakkert?
AutoStakkert reads ser?
There’s absolutely no need to convert your ser file to tif files so AS! can read them
Record -> PIPP to get individual frames -> Send frames through AutoStakkert -> Select/stack
Maybe to remove empty frames with PIPP, but not to convert to tifs
AS! takes ser as well as avi files
Hm. I'll have to try something then. AutoStakkert never worked w/ the actual recording, only images.
What would it say if you tried to stack the actual recorded file?
PIPP still comes in handy if I sneeze during manual tracking though and lose the planet ...
Yeah you can use it for that, but I don’t know anyone who solely uses PIPP to convert to individual tif files in order to stack with AS!
That’s really inefficient
You just found a dude.
Going to try running an avi or ser through AS!
If you use PIPP to remove empty frames you can still just export as ser again
Working on an avi right now for testing purposes. Seems to have worked.
Yeah lol
And here's the output.
I recommend recording in .ser though, since using ser player allows you to watch the raw data debayered, while playing an avi file shows you undebayered footage
It’s like magic huh
Yep. My image completely disappeared.
Also ser player has some minimal editing features
What I mean is that there should be a planet in that image. It should be: