#Planetary Imaging
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I did wavelets first and then all of the other processing and it did fix it
This is the red channel
I did some reading, here is the answer:
Looks like you and I had similar seeing. Except you have a moon in your shot.
When was this image done?
Yesterday
Shortly after me probably by the looks of it.
Crappy seeing ruined my shot of getting detail on Ganymede
Clouds came as soon as I was done setting up
Clouds are such a-holes
quick snap shot of tonight with much better seeing
Holy crap did the GRS shrink that much
idk did it? i have to check old data
Imagine if it disappears
Yeah when the GRS disappears it will be replaced by a new and improved GRS 2
It will always face Earth so you can always image it
It got leaked in the solar system patch notes from nasa
nice band detail
I don't see the problem I mean for me it's like good-excellent
Looks poor in my opinion
3-4/10 imo
Guys, if I image a planet in all of the color channels separately instead of doing rgb will I get better results
I have a ceres-c camera
Imx224
No
No
not much point in putting RGB filters in front of the camera when it's a colour camera that already has built in RGB filters over the sensor.
Only reason I could think of is using more narrowband colour filters to try and preserve more detail that is ruined by atmospheric disruption. but the price of the filters would probably be higher than an ADC which is what you should actually use to fix that
Got my IR685nm
Nice
What does it help with?
It helps with bad seeing
Nah cost me like 25 bucks
Nice
the wobbly atmosphere has a less impact on longer wavelengths
Is it better than an uv ir cut filter?
issue with that is that you get a black and white image, since it blocks everything but the deep reds of the visible colours. It's more of a something you use in combination with a UV-IR cut, where you overlay the colours on the 685 IR image like this. note this is from the product page of the filter and the increase in quality should be taken as fact.
Which is superior avi files or ser files
Idk
Iāve never seen anyone use AVI files I think
oh wow dad astra, ethan chappel and tom are all online at the same time
the horsemen
Now I wanna see Damian online 
not even in your dreams ;)
nice
Eh I use avi
Are sers smaller or something
I don't think they matter
Fair enough
I prefer sers because you can easily view them using ser player
And see the histogram and do some preprocessing like colour balance and stuff like that
ethan chappen š
Iāll embrace it for a little bit. 
lol you actually changed your username to "chappen" 
Let us know how it works
Sers for me are like 8gb for 90 seconds on Jupiter and was wondering if avi is smaller size but same quality
Think AVI is slightly bigger, but there is not much in it tbh
Its worth a purchase Ken
Yeah what do you mean by chappel he was always "ethan chappen"
can anyone suggest what eyepiece i should use for jupiter imaging for my telescope, i have 20mm,12.5mm,4mm and 3x barlow. My telescope specs are as follows:
focal length: 700mm
aperture: 60 ( ik its bad its my first telescope)
12.5 or 20 mm with the barlow because your apeture is so small your jupiter will show no detail if you try anything like 4 mm with 3x
yeah even 4mm with no barlow literally shows no detail at all, it's very blurry and cloudy
im broke, i only have my phone with 50mp camera š
thanks for the suggestion tho, bye
my first attempt with 20mm lol
Yo Damien K joined astrobiscuit
Same
Nice, I love his work
I don't really know but he showed up on my youtube main page a few times and he has a 24" scope and a 16" one
And takes very good planetary images
Thanks guys for the warm welcome š
oh lol i recognize your name because youtube always sends me notifications recommending me your videos lol

Well i hope you enjoy the videos š¤
Very nice Orion Nebula you showed earlier
I have just restacked it and the image is much better, used almost 50% in the video and i think 25% (500 frames) looks best all the surounding stars now sharp.
Also doing a 47 Tucannae right now as well, but my DSO processing is rubbish. Stretch........curves.......sharpen and a little noise if it needs itš
Out with my scope and got a couple good vids with good seeing
Welcome mate
Lots of good vibes here that is for sure, thanks Tom it only took me 3 months from you mentioning itš¤
Yes i think i am he haha
Hope you are well
Clouds for a week? What will you be using it for? Target/ scope combo?
š Sounds good but you probably shouldn't have said that last bit out loudš¤
-30 is no joke, have only bee in it a few times
That would be enough though, you are dedicated
š¬
Yeah id say like me at +40c
Dont worry its too much for a lot of Aussies as well +>
Not sure cant say i have seen much of a change over the years tbh, I feel like it was hotter when i was younger but that was a while ago now..........unfortunately haha
New blood
They are a pain in the back side
I'm off to bed mate nice to have chatted and i will talk to you again soon.
Don't know about "there" but "here" in the NE there's usually snow in Nov and if not snow it's consistently freezing temps. 40s and 50s are unheard of for this time of year. Yet this year we've been in the 40's through Christmas; there was a little bit of snow earlier but we're having our first snowstorm now.
Does anyone have any idea why this halo has appear in my image. Could it be collimation?
Might be brightness when acquiring the image. I use SharpCap and set my brightness to 0
Maybe fogged up lens
could be but i hope not as then ill have to buy a dew heater....... another thing
also if it was fogged up then wont the whole image be blurry not just a corner?
Not necessarily. Tilt of the view might emphasize one side more than the other.
Either barlow/ADC internal reflection, or collimation. I think it's not less likely to be collimation as the planet itself seems fine and symmetrical. Edge rind on the right is normal with the current phase.
Also the fact the ghost image looks larger than Jupiter itself, so again points towards a kind of internal reflection with what is essentially a different focal length when it reaches the sensor
I think it would be the Barlow as I donāt have an adc. How could I fix the internal reflections in the Barlow?
Could also be the filter. Try placing the UV/IR cut on the front of the barlow instead. Or if you already do this, maybe try attaching it to the camera nosepiece, after the barlow.
And check for dew build up as someone previously mentioned
Ahhh, thatās the issue, I have the uv ir cut on the camera not the Barlow
Thanks for your help
First IR test, can't wait for some good seeing for a really sharp image
Nice work š , Do you have a filter on the camera (UV/IR Cut)?
I dont even own 1 filter
That is why you have a funny colour balance, save up for a ZWO UV/IIR cut fiter. Its very cheap and very good and will also improve your focussing due to IR and Visible light not focusing at the same point š
Tho i have nothing to hold the filter but imma chdck if there somme on stock somme where
it will screw into the nosepiece of the camera
Did you use a Barlow?
Nope
You should also consider getting one on top of the UV/IR Cut
Imma try next time with a barlow if i can
That is 2" by the way, you only need 1.25" so it will be cheaper again
Opps sorry misread on the picture
Tho that wont be in a few month since dumb weather
Hopefully Iāll have good seeing conditions today
I could bzck out rn and retry with the barlow but i almost got froozen in the -17c 
Not worth it now, that was a good start and its time to regroup. We learned something and now next time you will put it into action. If you do that everytime you will be ripping out beautiful images in no time. Not to say that image is not beautifulš¤
This was also a 400 photo stack
So there wasnt alots
I normaly use the moon to get my focal point right
Ans then after that i point my stuff to other thing
But this time the moon wasnt there
It will be easier to focus when you use the barlow. At native FL of the 8" dob you will not get much detail, but that will change when you use the Filter and 2x barlow
My scope is a 200/1000mm
Went out and took my 4.5ā to see if the seeing conditions were good and it was good, shortly after the clouds noticed 
Is that with 685 nm filter?
Looks pretty crispy
I may need to try this tks
You donāt have this issue though?
Thats strange Ken, i noticed it on the 24" and Tom and i were talking about it 3 or 4 months ago. I was thinking maybe thermals/ cooldown on the big mirror in winter (but i believe you said you don't have this issue due to small temp swings at night). Then i bought a new UV/IR cut filter because i thought i bay have rubbed off the coatings ? Haven't had a clear night since i got the filter Hahaha. Damo
Iām going to try put the filter on the Barlow instead tonight as it should be clear but canāt confirm in England
Let use know how you went?
My brother sent me this video and Iām just wondering⦠how?!
Does your friend believe in it? If so, I donāt think heās doing alright
Advertisement for crazy fast?

First pictures i made of anything at all its all but good didnt really prepare anything no stand for the camera and forgot to focus but jupiter (in the picture) is just a bright dot why is that?
Focus first, then try to lower the gain and maybe exposure time.
whats your guys opinion on RGB align in autostakkert yes or no
He doesnāt know much about Astro 
You see the āpaid partnershipā in the bottom left? 
I stacked my first jupiter image! (I took it with my cellphone)
How do i lower the gain (this picture i showed is unedited btw)
Is it on a DSLR or planetary cam? And what software are you using?
NOOOOOOOOO, ur friend disappoints me
rgb align doesnt work for me, so i would rather try rggb
yes keep it ticked, since the atmosphere splits the colours up a bit it will align each rgb colour channel so they all overlap properly. You do lose some resolution as it doesn't fully fix it, but its the best option unless you use something like the zwo adc to fix it in hardware.
eg raw capture vs rgb align raw stack. the blue and reddish sides disappear.
Looks like you are using a dslr and pushing the button to take the picture vibrates the entire scope. To fix it you can add a 2s delay(not sure about your camera but have a look in the manual. usually left arrow on canon cams) or use a shutter wire.
also if you are using a canon cam try using a laptop with eos camera movie record to record the liveview at 5x zoom for proper sampling. Usually DSLR video doesn't capture 1 pixel from the sensor into 1 pixel on the video which messes up the details a bit, always try to capture the video with a resolution where the planet stays the same or closest size as in a picture.
Wireless intervalometer FTW.
Yea true was already planning on doing a delay this was just a bit to see how it works and Everything
Thanks
Thanks
Anyone here doing lunar imaging with a Dobson and can share some of his/her best results? ā¤ļø
Heres one I did in the morning with a 10inch
This is my favorite one, literally just 6 raw pictures stacked together using the 600D + 8" dob.
Did you just dox yourself
Would be weird if someone would rlly visit him xdddd
Still not a good idea to just dox yourself like that
eh its not accurate enough to do anything
we just know hes some random town in romania
I mean people put their general location into the #š¤-ask-a-bot when looking for their weather
Eh, if someone from this server wanted to get my location they would by now
Really unless you know the exact house they live in you can't really do much
Itās at its highest at the meridian so less atmosphere to look through so yeah
Hi guys
i was just checking if the red spot for jupiter was visible for tonight on stellarium but when i looked on the computer app it showed it was but on the phone app it does not show it yet. Anyone know which one i should follow so i would be able to image the great red spot.
Check your computer is actually set to your right location, sometimes it's not for various reasons. I always trust my phone though
@livid sierra @kindred imp beh, you guys with your "either-or" ... I check 3 different apps on about 5 devices. Get with the program. Sheesh. š š
FWIW if the program or app is locating you correctly, it shouldn't matter what's used. I use Stellarium web as well as the program and app, it spots me so I know when I'll see the red spot.
If you have the app set to your correct location, which is really simple, it should display the GRS correctly
In the PC version thereās a setting for GRS timing to set it correctly yourself, so on PC it can be inaccurate if itās not set accurately
So not necessary to check 3 different apps on 5 devices to know when the GRS is up imo
Agreed, I was trying to be funny.
Ah okay thanks guys
Oh I was not aware
Though I won't necessarily deny that I have multiple apps on multiple devices solely for the sake of convenience
Hi guys Iāve seeming people like Jerry use fl of 5400mm with his 10inch dob, Uranus C and 3x Barlow. I was wondering if that means Iām undersampled as Iām only using roughly 3600mm. Should I extend the Barlow to get to 5400mm or only do this when itās good seeing
@livid sierra congrats on meganerd!
What scope do u use?
Ayy thanks man
Howās the weather been like in the Netherlands for you? Iāve gotten a total of 2 clear nights here in Lithuania during the past 3 months and both of them were 1/5 seeing.
Iām loosing my mind
I know itās clichĆ© for astrophotographers to complain about the weather but this is seriously driving me insane
Not great either but not as bad as you from what it seems
Iāve had a few sessions in November and December, though none were outstanding at all
And I just had four clear nights in a row during three of which I was able to go out and do some imaging
But again seeing was average, nothing to write home about
Also it was very cold, -7°C
My last session before those was December 17th
It was -22c two nights ago for me š
Instead of an extender I use an ADC to get up to 5400mm. A simple extender doesn't solve the problem of atmospheric dispersion. The higher the FL the greater the effects of atmosphere
Damn that's painful. Maybe better that it's cloudy lol because I can't imagine sitting outside in that temperature can be any fun
Perhaps. I remember last year during Marsās opposition I was capturing during similar conditions and was running inside every 10 minutes and putting my hands on the radiator to not get frostbite lmao
Shit was like a sport
Lol
Yeah that's what I'm doing with -7C
Although last two sessions I was sitting in my neighbour's backyard, much better horizon, but it's a little far to walk to my house during imaging so I just walked around the backyard for like 2,5 hours to get warm lmao
Ah ok I see thanks Jerry. Maybe Iāll try get that next⦠more money šµ
result for 2 days ago
Can someone get me a not horrific skies
Right now the wind is blowing 20+ mph gusts
Itās been doing this for a couple of days
Where you based?
Iāve had the same
Hawaii
Weāre getting some nasty Low pressure stuff right now
I'm really sorry guys, I expected local weather not national weather. And all I did was get a minipc and update my laptop (larger system drive, switched storage from 1TB HDD to 2TB HDD). I didn't even get the onstep yet.
Were getting tons of crap clouds and low pressure systems sent towards us
This is the 2nd one, much smaller but much closer
Man I need to work on processing
This doesnt make sense to me, im looking at the planetary book i got and googling online and it says im significantly oversampling using a 3x barlow with a 10inch 1200mm dob with 2.9um pixel size.
It says using no barlow would be better
This calculator assumes that optimal sampling is such that 1 pixel covers the Rayleigh diffraction limit I think. In reality, you should aim for 3-4 pixels to cover the diffraction limit, as only 1 pixel can't "resolve" any detail that is the size of the diffraction limit if that makes sense.
For example if your diffraction limit is the size of a coin, you'll need more than just 1 pixel to resolve the coin.
Here's 1800mm (Native f/4.4) vs 8770mm (3x+ADC f/21.5) with my scope.
Same night, similar conditions
The CCD Suitability calculator is not suitable for planetary imaging. It assumes long exposures which will be blurred by seeing.
that too
Whereas we are trying to catch moments where seeing is not blurring the image.
cool thanks, im just going to have dinner then ill try understand it. Cant think when hungry xD
Yesterday was 50+
But I now finally have clear skies
Is diffraction limit like when a star is perfectly in focus (being the smallest point off light possible)?
Yeah it's essentially the smallest thing that a scope can resolve. Linear with aperture.
ah ok
in the book it looks like it takes that into account and it says that 0.24"/photosite is optimal but i dont know if that data is using a 2.9um sensor as reference
Has a good picture in the book
would i be be worth then extending my FL even more even though it says im oversampled
no
The ccd suitability calculator? Yes.
You want to run 7x your pixel size as your ideal F/ratio
That ends up matching the 4 pixel rule thing
Yes, the 7x your pixel size is the optimal F ratio to image at but 5x and 4x will still be ok as well. Look at it like 2.9um pixels x 7 = F20.3
5x 2.9um is F14.5 , even a little less is ok but just not ideal.
Most people will be able to get close to the mark with a 3x Barlow then ADC and then camera because usually with most barlows the further away from the top surface of the barlow you move the camera the more magnification you will get.
Yup. 5x for red light, 7x for blue. But oversampling is better than undersampling, so it's best to sample the blue correctly at 7x pixel size. That's how I reason it.
As always mate we are on the same page
I used to run 8770mm f/21.5 with my old ADC, but the newer ZWO one i picked up is a little stubbier, and works out at 8070mm f/19.9 
I think my favorite ever Saturn was shot at F16, i always wonder what would have been at f20
Ok thats very very close to my 16 now and the Siebert optics barlow, winjupos said 8200mm
Your scope F4.4 and mine is F4.55
My new processing way (left) with same data set 
Nice improvement, i have always said your processing skills is the easiest way to find improvement in planetary imagingš
About 2.5 years ago Tom rightly asked about the size discrepancy between the Jupiter and Saturn in this image ? (because i had said same image train). After 20 minutes i worked out it was due to how close to opposition they were each image imaged. So i looked for Saturn closer to Opposition to compare
The only one i could find was this, i didn't like it very muchš¤
Then after 15 different trial and error sessions it turned into this, practice friends practice..........thanks Tom š
and Yes it was a much closer match for size š

To be honest I like the original more, although some tweaking is required
Agreed. Looks like the dark areas were clipped to black on the new version.
How's this?
Just found an 18inch stargate not goto for £1250. Good or bad
Thanks for the honesty Ken. This isn't what it would look like if i had another go at it now, i am still learning even now. That "attempt" at processing was 2.5 years ago about half a year into my first ownership of a planetary camera and it hasn't been touched since. And the tweaking required was the point of the whole process, if you put these 2 images down in front of 100 people as they are now they would all pick the second image without doubt (clipped blacks and all). The point of the post was to continue to try and find improved ways to process your images and all your images will be better for it. Damo
Hi Ethan, the blacks were 100% clipped because even 2.5 years ago i still didn't know that much about processing. There is plenty wrong with that image to be honest i am the first to admit it. I am not someone who thinks his work is above any form of criticism and i gladly welcome new points of view. That image was put together with Registax, Winjupos and Gimp. Two of those programs i don't use anymore, i am sure you could easily work out which ones. Anyway mate thanks for the feedback and i look forward to many more conversations here, all the best. Damo š
makes me think of that time a couple of months ago i got a 16inch dob for like 375$
1250 is still a good deal tbh
bc the quality is way better than mine and it sells for like 5999usd new
actual robbery
and it came with a moonlite cr2 focuser 
only problem is the mirror has a small missing part and isnāt clean, and also the telescope is pretty cheaply made, but still a steal
i got this with my phone through it so it still works well lol
For the missing mirror part I would have asked the guy to kick the decimal a couple spots left.
would be 37.5$
I might be generous and round up to $40 
Wait not to sound weird but did you get this off Facebook marketplace? As I swear I saw a scope exactly like that and I was debating getting it
yup i did
close to montreal
maybe its the same lol
No way thatās so funny thatās the same one I was looking at but I couldnāt get it because my car was too small and it was tough to communicate to the guy selling it as Iām not fluent with French anymore
no way lol, i dont even have a car but my friend was able to drive me there
it actually fit
i mean i dmd the guy 15min after he posted the ad, i really got lucky
Damn thatās so lucky lol, I mean you really couldnāt have passed up on that deal though. And true I think anyone who saw that wouldāve been all over it including myself
i rarely look on marketplace too, it was just a coincidence that i looked when the ad was posted and im glad i did
Fair enough, and Iām curious how much of a difference does such a big scope make? In both visual and or while capturing
i live close to montreal so i couldnt tell you due to light pollution, but i own a 8inch f5 newt and i feel like the view through the 16inch is a bit better but 2x more zoomed
Big
i havent tried it that much tho as its a pain to mount everytime and now it snows
Yeah have you been getting hit heavily recently with snow, I know in kingston the last few days have been crazy for bad weather
i did take those with my phone real quick last time
lol 5mins ago:
Damn the Jupiter and moon videos are crazy especially for just a phone recording and what nebula is that?
the orion nebula
ive seen it from a bortle 5 through a 14inch celestron telescope and that was like 10x better
Literally last night, the light pollution is so bad
it looked like that video (a bit better), but in black and white
bortle 8 sucks lol
(its sending)
Yeah probably due to the darker skies which i hope to get out to as soon as school lets up a little
i will too when it gets less cold out there
but im hoping to image planets with the 16inch and my deepsky camera soon
Damn I really need to upgrade my equipment especially after seeing those pictures, and is the first one with a phone? Because thatās crazy good
yup it is
i mean the view was insane too
And let me know when you do the images will come out so nice, Iām trying to manage with my 8ā but I just got the 585mc but havenāt got to use it yet
Damn now I might have to invest in a 16ā lol, and whatās the f ratio for the scope?
yessir i will, ive imaged with my 8inch newt once and it came out like that, im not too happy with the result but ill take it
f5
and theyre pretty expensive lol
I mean thatās better than mine, Iāve been rocking with my iPhone 11 and orion XT8 dob but hopefully the astrocam will help
it will for sure
Oh okay so good for both DSO and planetary and I know, they retail for roughly $2000+ I think right? Maybe closer to 2500
it depends, i do know the goto versions go for like 5k
theyre good for dso only if you have tracking
Letās hope so lolš¤
for planetary you can manage without
usually big scopes like those are used for visual purposes
but that really depends
True but have a try using the AstroShader app on your phone it will do long exposures and also stack the image for you, itās not perfect but it helped me with my image of Orion
i got a deepsky setup so its fine
i got that not long ago
we're getting a bit out of this channel's subject
Oh damn I guess all you need is a dedicated solar scope and then youāll have the whole sky covered
im working on that lol, hopefully one day
Iām sure itās alright for one image lol but I wish I could get to that level of imaging, hopefully in the not so distant future
Right on lol thatās sick, would be really nice too to have that before the solar eclipse
you will for sure i started a couple of months ago, and lets not forget that there are people here like ken or tom go crazy in planetary, and many other people get super good dso images so theres always potential
dont know if this is appropriate for this channel since the sun isnt a planet, but i got this with my phone https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/1094785164829278238/1162814235206754344/IMG_6340.png?ex=65b546a5&is=65a2d1a5&hm=9a1709ef89d444b84f58b3a31013f095b2f085f51da5ac82e2bca5b0f0c721e1&=&format=webp&quality=lossless&width=460&height=674
True but the only issue is Iād have to invest in a DSO setup as my dob isnāt on a tracking mount or eq mount.
How did you get so much solar detail? Mine just come out as white dots likely due to my filter
its pretty expensive
it was through someones solar telescope which has a hydrogen alpha filter at my local observatory
and thats pretty expensive
Just check now and theyāre around ($250-350) depending on where you buy which is nuts and I wish my school would use their observatory more. They have I think a c11 edge or something like that and they basically donāt use it from what I know
you can also pay 115k for a 12inch solar telescope
jokes aside, theyre like around 1k depending on the size
I couldnāt imaging just making that purchase, like thatās way too much for what advantages lol. Like if you know Astrofalls I think he was selling a calendar and was making the joke that if 40,000 people bought it he could get a $1mil telescope which I think was 40ā
if i was a millionaire id buy it tbh
I think most people on here would lol
i got that same thing but snow instead of rain and literally -30 degree F windchill (im from america i use fahrenheit thats how i was taught dont make fun of me for it)
We'll forgive you.
Same.
Just ... no promises about weather. The couple of clear skies I've had recently were with clouds hovering at the side and seeing was awful.
at least its not your summer
I feel slightly better about the way Io is colored in my images of Jupiter; it's always yellowish-red. Turns out that's Io's color.
Hello people, I have a question regarding file management. Is there any risk in copying planetary AVIs to a USB flash drive? I just stuffed my laptop with 177 gigabytes of new data, so Iād like to copy them over and then delete from my laptop, but Iām wondering if thatāll compress or otherwise harm the files? Iām using a high quality Samsung USB flash drive.
Itās a temporary solution. I got way more data than I was expecting, now thereās only 19 gigabytes left on my laptop
assuming the flash drive doesn't die (yeouch that would suck) no
and the muen
Itll work as long as the drive is formatted to take big files
FAT32 is limited to 4gb files max
Format it to NTFS
The default was exFAT. My two options are exFAT and NTFS. Is NTFS still preferable? (Sorry, Iām not familiar with any of this)
yes
Ok thanks
anyone got a moon full disk image from last night. Im doing a big mosaic and missing this part
nvm i think i found it luckily
Just to see what the missing part looked like so I could find it in my data cause it could have been a black spot being so close to the middle.
Has anyone had any experience with the skywatcher satellite tracking? Do you have to be extra careful with alignment
You align it to North, it takes some figuring out how to get it closest to 0° as possible since Polaris is not always exactly at 0° of course
It helps to be as accurate as possible but you can make adjustments with the HC while the telescope is tracking the ISS
F/48 is really high, unless you have a camera with 7um pixels
I take it you have a 150mm aperture, if you have one a 2x Barlow would be more suitable
Latest beta for Green Swamp Server, an ASCOM driver for Sky-Watcher mounts, supports alt-az mounts. 
Can't decide which one I like more. The color is really nice on top but details are better on bottom. Might try somewhere in between.
Try a luminance blend
Like IR + RGB
?
Ah you mean bottom as luminance, top as color
lum blend should apply the detail contrast to the one with better colours
is this with the 10inch?
Yes
Bottom one looks better overall imo
niceee, I wish I could get a shot that good
saturn is too low here :((
Thanks!
Your shots are great, just spend some money on an adc and stay patient for good seeing. This was shot at around 30 degrees altitude, and the seeing wast exceptional but fairly good for that altitude
What a work.. getting somewhere though
Are you doing a big mosaic too

Yes wanted to try. Just eyeballed the panels so I hope it's complete
How do you edit it? And how far Are you
As in progress
Download Microsoft ICE to align them for you, itās a great tool for mosaics
Hey yes I know about it. Thanks
Autostitch works as well
Almost finished
Just missing a tiny bit right bottom. Hope I can find it
Iād just fill that in
Nice looks good
thanks, almost finished now.
How many panels?
way too much
about 40, but overlapped a lot so wouldnt need them all. just shot them in case of
are you working with gimp or photoshop for finishing touches?
not sure how to make these edges nice and pretty
I used photoshop but I think gimp should work. My edges turned out ok luckily so I didnāt have to fix anything there.
ah i see, i suck at gimp. but i fixed it with help from some tutorials
want to share your image?
here is mine so far, still some artifacts here and there but im pretty happy with it overall
especially on the top side it looks a bit off
how though?
Content aware fill in photoshop maybe?
Would feel like cheating for me
Yeah I understand, I wouldn't mind too much as it's such a small area
You can also try to fill it with some of your old images or even retake the panel but I guess you'll need to fiddle a bit so that it doesn't look off
Nah that's right. But still feels wrong haha
Luckily I wasn't polar aligned and with every recording the fov drifted a bit. Found a recording where it covered the missing piece
Mines already in solar system pics here #older_system_pics message
Yep I definitely understand haha
I had a similar issue a while ago, one panel had weird noise patterns
On the middle of the terminator
Oh sorry didn't know. But wow! Great job
Same I had that too slightly, I think it might be frame quality
Thx, yours looks great too. What equipment did u use?
Oh yes I see, did you fix it? This is quite similar. Very dim though. No idea why that happens
Bresser 127/1900 mak with a svbony 305 pro
I also have the explore scientific 2x focal extender but didn't use it for this. I think I will try it with my 130pds / D5300 sometime
Can't beat a 10 inch dob though š
No unfortunately
I took it when I just started ap so I didn't had enough knowledge at the time to fix it
Haven't done a new mosaic since, now that I think about it I should try again with my 10" dob
With @thin aspen mosaic in mind I would definitely do that š
Have goto on the 10 inch as well?
Nope but I atleast have an eq platform
Guys, what is the best way to get the most amount of precision out of a laser colimator with this tipe of focuser? The one with 2 adaptors
I would say move the focuser to the home position and tighten the screws how you would tighten them when using an eyepiece. Also make sure the laser collimator is collimated
don't use lasers 
To late
Anyone knows a good tutorial on how to align the focuser?
and to collimate the laser collimator you need a laser collimator
laser collimators are excellent in theory only
yes
Wait you need to collimate a the laser collimator?
Yeah
Do you need to collimate the laser collimator, to collimate the laser collimator?
Collimation-ception ... a reason to not do laser collimation
No
Astrobiscuit had a good example on how to collimate a laser collimator https://youtu.be/KkX_MHpqozE?si=I3qO-5lysTii_K1C
This is a guide to Collimating Newtonian Telescopes in the daytime using a collimation cap, a Cheshire eyepiece and a laser collimator (I also run through collimating the laser collimator!). I personally use a collimation cap followed by a collimated laser collimator for my daytime collimation. This basic tutorial is all you need to get great co...
What is the best and the most accurate way to collimate a telescope without a laser
Chester Collimating Eyepiece I would say
Ok thanks, Iāll watch that.
Guys isnāt the zwo715mc better that zwo585mc at planetary because it has a much smaller pixel size?
iodunew
The pixel size is nice but not the most important part, larger pixel size means you just need a bigger barlow to get to the same sampling. The 585 does have a better readnoise and a lot more dynamic range due to the larger fullwell.
But the 715 is nice since it gets you to the maximum sampling with F10 scopes without using any barlows.
Go for a Uranus C, nice to have larger sensor vs the 715
Like LMC said, Uranus-C is probably better. Slap a 2x barlow on, and you've got what is effectively a 715 anyway.
Extra FOV is nice to have at native FL, for ISS imaging among other things.
Nice seeing rn
Wow, very good seeing
looking forward to see the results, looks amazing
Still cloudier than a smoker lungs where I am.
Sadly I think it won't be that good as I didn't had the time to do a proper collimation as I did a lot of work on my scopes structure
scopes structure? like the trusses?
Where you based? France?
My secondary's support doesn't have back and forth movement and it's not well centered with the focuser so I had to drill new holes for the focuser
Yep, not super far away from the Pic du Midi
Watching in the eyepiece at 400x mag gave a basically perfectly still view
Nice, I'm guessing near sea-level though.
Unfortunately yes :/
Had a chance to image at a high altitude in the Alpes but it was with my heritage so not that good...
Should push north for us in the UK hopefully. Bit 50/50 whether we get high or low pressure next week.
You should definitely go again once you eventually succumb to aperture fever
Looks like you should have similar seeing for the whole of this coming week. Make the most of it.
rip
Just noticed my secondary's collimation is really bad š¬
Time to fix :)
It's quite hard to go from two totally different collimation systems though
What are you using now?
Explore scientific's 10" ultralight
I don't know what to think of the secondary holder, it has some benefits but it's also hard to control
There is no central screw, you have to do everything adjusting the spider
Looks silly on this image
yeah
That's a stupid system
Similar to Lyaphine's 20" Dob actually
No centre screw
Ig it's more beginner friendly but it's a shame to have this issue on big scopes
I would argue it's not even beginner friendly either
Just a pain
My Dob has this layout. Definitely among the best.
Btw I ordered some collimation equipment! An autocollimator and a tri bahtinov mask
Yeah What I like is you don't need Allen keys but that's it
Suppose.
Looks good indeed
The heritage's is actually quite good too
Poivre do you use lucky imaging for your deep sky images cause I was thinking of trying but donāt know how well it will work on dim targets like some galaxies.
Truth be known I haven't touched my secondary in almost a year. It's kept collimation very well. Primary I've had to adjust though.
The problem is the focuser a studry as wet spaghetti
Also the primary holder of the ultralight is horrful
There's just a small scratch holding the primary and it almost fell twice
Collimation changes quite dramatically with the altitude
What do you guys use for primary mirror collimation
Because I canāt get it collimated
And I broke my laser colimator(I wasnāt even that good tho so š¤·š»āāļø)
@wispy pagoda
Ouch
If you manage to repair it, have you tried collimating the laser itself?
They actually need that
The collimation cap works well if you have a central spot, it's not necessarily good enough to get the most of your scope but it's simple, cheap and it works
No, I donāt think that I will manage to fix it, I will try tho
Will it be precise enough?
You can also startest (SLIGHTLY defocus a star and check if the diffraction circles are well concentric)
The laser or the collimation cap?
Barlowed laser is also quite good I believe
Laser
I don't have much experience with them, as far as I can tell they work but they are not extremely precise
What do you want the collimation for? Visual or photography?
Planetary photography
I disagree. Bottom one is better for color and details, hands down. Might be a bit dark but it's less smudgy
I had my telescope well colimated a few weeks after I bought it, but somehow a chunk of wet dirt got on to my primary mirror and I had to take it out
Will this be precise enough?
For planetary
Cheshire are more designed for the secondary
Have you tried with a simple collimation cap first?
I use a simple collimation cap for both secondary and primary
Like 5 pounds on FLO
Tom does too as far as I'm aware
Yeah it's usually enough
For deep sky at really high focal ratios you need more but otherwise you don't really need fancy tools
And you can get perfect collimation with it?
I need it for planetary at about f 20 something
Although I will sometimes check my collimation on a star with the reticle in FC
As you don't need to buy anything to make a collimation cap, I suggest you try and then make a star test to see wether you need a better tool
I do that sometimes too, but itās hard to keep it in the field of view at fl1500 and 1300x900
True handtracked it's a pain
*when I said high fl ratio I meant low number
Yea I got that XD
Oh hell yeah, untracked is a pain
I will eventually build an eq platform, but itās hard and Iām lazy
Another simple elegant solution is the tribathinov mask
You can easily check the collimation and it's possible to use it to change it also I think it's quite a pain
This is with a 12ā
I was a bit out of collimation
And I think that I is quite expensive for a 12ā
It's a variant of the bahtinov mask designed for primary collimation
You can make it yourself though
I have a 3d printer but I would have to print it in separate pieces
Does the collimation cap need a reflective surface?
I could print it
And is a 2ā one better?
It's better but not necessary
If you're gonna use a 1.25" camera, then you better use a 1.25" one I think
But there's probably almost no difference
First quick process
I didn't do justice to the seeing...
I have this too btw, with my scope
I canāt move the secondary up or down relative to the primary, and itās not perfectly centred under the focuser
Or at least I canāt figure out a way, Iāve loosened all 4 screws that hold the secondary and have done all sorts of gymnastics with it and it will do everything except go up or down
Itās not terribly off centre so I donāt think itās much of a problem. Although I would still love to be able to fix it somehow
Donāt know how badly yours is off centre?
about 5mm
It's really bad at f5
I first tilted the focuser so it can be centered (which created some other issues but at least it was well centered) and I've just drilled the tube to move the focuser enough
Ig it works but it's not a pretty solution...
But apart from that your secondary/primary collimation looks good? As in, your secondary looks like a nice circle through the focuser and the primary is centred under the secondary?
Well not right now, as is apparent from your image, but can it be done with how the secondary sits atm
I have no problem with the primary collimation, I startested it twice and all the rings looked really concentric and I even saw hints of an airy disk but the secondary alignement is not the same story...
It's not too bad but it could definitively be better
Yeah what's weird is that in the collimation cap it looks pretty good (at least better than what I ever had with the heritage) but the image don't agree
Can you share an image through the collimation cap?
Sorry I've tidied it up
Np, feel free to share one when you have the chance
Thanks, I'll do that later this week as I won't have access to the scope till then
Actually it doesn't look that bad don't you think?
Sure it could be a lot better but it's a start
Indeed, I'll correct that tomorrow
I only ever notice my colors are off once Iāve finished processing and have exported the image.
Give please
cheshires can do both very well
Will a Cheshire be better than a collimation cap?
Yeah, a Cheshire is basically a collimation cap but with crosshairs, allowing you to align more accurately
How does it works for the primary? I havtn used one tbh
fine
its just a collimation cap with crosshairs, it doesn't obstruct what you need to see
Ah ok
First you get the secondary aligned in the center with the crosshairs and then you put the reflection of the secondary mirror thatās on the primary mirror in the center of the donut or crosshairs as well
This oneās from me
So it's not different from a simple collimation cap (for the primary)
(that's what I mean when I said cheshires are more designed for secondary)
cheshire is best for multi purpose
I donāt like the cheshire because the one I ordered had bent crosshairs so the whole purpose was defeated from the start
Manufacturing defect. Can't say all Cheshires are bad :wholesome:
I donāt know what to trust collimating with a Cheshire or laser cause when I use a Cheshire the laser is outā¦
Very true
In the end it doesnāt matter too much which one you use, theyāre both good (although collimation cap is cheaper) and itās always good to test on a star with the actual image train inserted
Cheshire is more reliable as it doesn't need to be collimated
Nice one
damn is this the closest u can get? I think that if U could zoom in a bit more it would look absolutely amazing!
hey uranus-c nerds, i just got mine!! question tho, do i need to install the drivers on mac?? because the website doesn't show any for mac-os
(i also have a pc, it's not useless but i don't have it with me rn and i want to test the camera)
on the vague topic of collimation how is mine
Bad
yeah I figured
You donāt need to install the drivers, just plug it in your computer with whatever capturing software on youāre good to go
I believe that the drivers are needed for the camera to be able to talk to the computer, but you don't need the specific branded capture software.
When I got my Neptune-C II, I didnāt need to install any drivers because it was only for windows
Huh. I needed to install the drivers for my ASI585
You using Mac?
Nope. Windows and Sharpcap. Sharpcap is supposed to support the ZWO cams, and when I plugged mine in the software was all "yo, gotta talk the language man."
So I installed the camera drivers, computer said thank you, and SharpCap was happy to image.
Weāre both using Mac, I didnāt have to install drivers so Iām assuming that he also doesnāt have to install drivers
Just checked, player one website states that āonly window users must install the native driver to use the cameraā
Aren't I special. š
yeah but the manual says you "must" install them before plugging it in
Where's the manual?
Never mind found it
What's a manual?
i was worried that plugging it in as is might break something, i know it's a dumb fear but not risking it
What capturing software are you gonna use?
I only see ASCOM driver installation
well i was thinking on using kstars but it's broken on my mac so i don't really know with what to test it
but the plan is to use my pc once i get home
with nina
Autostakkert won't accept my 2.4gb avi
Pipp closes upon putting the file in
I give up, I should've just used a barlow so I wouldn't have to shoot 1ms frames
There's gotta be at least 100,000 frames in that avi
Try using pipp to split the frames into tiff files and then load them
Works for me
Whatāre you capturing 100000 frames of though 
The moon with my guidescope
I should've cut out a small circle or sum to reduce aperture
Full disk moon?
The one last night yea
100,000 frames is overkill for full disk
100,000 frames is overkill even for closeup lunar imaging
What's overkill?
too much
:D
damn nice pc
Do you carry the whole pc outside every night??
I would start and set the exposure to about 10MS and just set the gain till Jupiter is fairly lit, if the seeing is good/excellent I would increase the exposure length so maybe like 15MS
Donāt forget the ROI and goodluck
First time doin that but ye xddd
For more fps
They are roughly 1 minute long
90-120s is ok
Roi I just crop to like 800x800 so Iām not bandwidth limited. Then use cutout.
depends on exposure length
But I'm sure your max fps at 10fps for example should be 100fps, so just crop until you're at 100fps again
Yeah depends on exposure length
and you almost never use full res
I don't have that camera so I don't know what its max fps is
200fps with 10ms exposures is impossible
200fps is too much except for moon and venus
I'm just saying you won't get 200fps tonight
i think i got to 8000 fps with my uranus
8000fps??
dont use registax for timelapses. its too buggy.
smallest ROI, fastest shutter speed
Insanity
astrosurface
i do back to back, i have the storage for it.
but 90s is ok
60-90
maybe 120 as a max
how sir, a 2tb ssd is like $50
$100, go fo cheaper used.
$80
$30 ish, def quite slow, but likely has advertised capacity.
with adc its ok
get one, then you also get a barlow upgrade
still ok results
just try to buy your barlow so its ideal with ADC, that way you have less if you need it
it will help, unless doing IR pass filter. which is very useful for lunar.
built in? rip.
shoulda bought a uranus
i would not use ROI for your first time perhaps.
unless your tracking is ok
then you can drag a box in FC to set it.
firecap
Iām going to need a new storage device soon
But hdd is better for storage, price wise too, ssd is better for recording
Imo
what f ratio
with barlow?
so F8.8, you can get a 3x and extend it.
actually wait
f10 is ideal, extent your 2x if you want
because your camera has tiny pixels
3x will oversample
Those calculations on that website are generally wrong for planetary. It's for long exposures. I run at 4.5x on the same scope and that samples the blue channel sufficiently in excellent seeing. ~6.5x the pixel size as f/ratio is generally the "rule" that most of us planetary guys use.
It's ~5x for green, but when running OSC it's best to just oversample R & G and ensure B is well sampled for when good seeing comes along.
1 min for the 16" is short enough
Wouldn't bother with 30s
Correction: that's with a Uranus-C. My bad, didn't see the QHY715
ignore me, f/10 is about right as you said before
You donāt have an actual scope or a camera lens?
I mean it is entirely possibly to capture the moon with a guide scope
This used a guide scope as the main optic
Plenty of detail too if you open in browser
I do, I'm just lazy
how can I make my images of Jupiter good?, most of them have strange artifacts and chromatic abberation, I used registax, pipp, and autostackert.
oh yeah and this image has barely any color despite being shot in rgb
What format ur imaging with and what do u use?
I took that photo with my phone, so I just used the basic video format.
O
Which screw is the collimation one
Did your dob come with a manual
Itās hard to tell which ones will be locking screws and which will be collimation screws without at least knowing what they feel like when turning
Otherwise try to search online for a manual to your specific dob model
I found it online
Why canāt I see the inner circles when using my collimation cap
The inner most black dot with the red dot in it will be the hole you look through
The thick and thinner black circles around it will be reflection of the inside of the collimation cap
Most have a reflective inner side
Yeah
Did it
But the hole big black circle isnāt concentric to the mirror, is that normal?
How do you mean?
How bad is it off?
not bad, just a bit
Can you send a picture through the collimation cap?
yea, in a sec
here is my new image of the oiron core that was taken after colimating the scope, do my stars look alright?
Not quite but hard to tell if that's collimation or being untracked
I couldnāt get a better pic
ill try tomorrow to get a better picture because now its cold as f outside
Iām looking to get an ir pass filter. Probably 685nm. Is the Antlia brand good for them? Also are there any other filters that would be beneficial to buy.
Do you have the IMX178 color? I have a 203/800 f4 8" newton and want to buy a guiding cam and use it with the ZWO OAG. Do you think a IMX290 MONO or a IMX178 COLOR would be better? I ask because i could use the IMX178 color for planetary photography as well. But dont know if its as good or better compared to the IMX290 MONO
are these the uranian moons?
Depends on time, date, orientation, and if this is a stack or not š«”
Check Stellarium to see if positions match at the time of the photo
Itās not stacked just a single frame. Also moons seem closer and in a slightly different pattern so Iām unsure
Depends on the focal length but my guess would be stars
Using a Barlow or no?
Fresh
clean
epic guide to the planets in the next month or so
mercury, ass (as per normal)
venus, ass
mars, ass
moon, not a planet, doing moon things
jupiter, peaks right around sunset, get out early
saturn, ass
uranus, same boat as jupiter, but nobody cares about uranus,
neptune, technically not ass but 90% of the way there, so ass
pluto, ass
wheres the rest of the dwarf planets??, just gonna leave em out?
vesta, coming of opposition, at around 7th mag, will stay relatively close to the crap nebula the entire month
ceres, ass, also a needle in a haystack, mag 9 in central milky way in the early dawn, ends the month with a somewhat close approach the great saggatarius cluster in the early dawn sky, still boring
all others are either faint or not in my stellarium
Ye 3x Barlow at 3600mm
Approved
- usually bad winter weather and jetstream

Iām in the middle of all of it so we get low pressure tails that keep swinging by
We got the moon for a few months 
I'm already in that position. I had maybe one truly good night so far. I imaged on another night and haven't sorted the data yet. busy re-sorting the data from the one night I had. Closest I've come to textbook images. But aside from the one night it's either been clouds or absolute schite seeing.
We always have the moon.
Well, not "always" but definitely doesn't require as much patience/waiting for a good night to image the moon as other planets. Moon shows up full moon once a month regardless of what planets are out.
Time for deepskyā¦.
I'm getting into planetary again my fellow planetary imagers
I may not do planetary but I hang around the planetary imagers so I learned a lot
Weāre expecting an APY from you. Submissions close next month.
For someone who doesn't do a lot of planetary you've been of decent help.
I have hung around the planetary community for a while, I've always been interested but never had the proper gear to do it
Planetary was the first thing I did actually, but it wasn't really serious. just with my phone
When I do finally have the gear to do it ,I have all the knowledge to do it
Heh, that's pretty much all it took for me
Here we go!
Sweeettt
The 130pds will do great things
I actually somewhat look forward to the moon now... words I never thought I'd say
Daylight here almost
130PDS still
ur 130 is crakcked
If I extend my barlow a bit I might be able to squeeze just a bit more out of my aperture
for the 7x pixel size rule I need to get to f/20, currently at f/15
Is 7x for excellent seeing only?
Yup. 7x is for sufficiently sampling the blue channel as it theoretically has higher resolving power, but most of the time it's nuked by seeing.
But not much harm in oversampling, even if the seeing is average to poor
Of course you're oversampling the red/green channels pretty much all the time with this setup, but it seems to work for most.
I had some pretty wicked seeing last night
Seeing is normally good in Michigan, when its not cloudy of course
Hi all! What do people think of Planetary System Stacker? Why are you not using it? Why are you using it?
Never heard of it. I use PIPP and AutoStakkert
Yeah, Iāve used it before but everyone uses PIPP for a reason imo. AS4 is just better in every capacity as well lol
Things are popular for a reason is probably the biggest lesson Iāve learned from astro stuff š
pipp --> autostakkert --> registax for me
i usually then follow up with GIMP and lr mobile
Similar. PIPP --> AutoStakkert --> Astrosurface --> Gimp
I don't usually need PIPP, curious what you guys are doing in it? I just go straight to AS!4.
I only use PIPP if I want to keep raw footage to conserve space, other wise just straight to as4
Pipp is great for iss though
Very rarely as4 alignment will have a stroke, so i have to use pipp. Also, pipp debayer is nicer i find.
Cutout mode in FC is usually good enough to keep the files cropped down, unless you do some quality estimation in PIPP of course.
Yeah, about the only time i'll use it.
- small Mars when the debayering in AS!4 dies.
That's true, I did move to fc recently that feature is very good
Interesting
Technically AS4 doesn't actually debayer, it drizzles in some way. Only works well for objects that are a certain number of pixels across. PIPP is actual debayering.
So then would you do pipp debayer prior to stacking Jupiter moons/ Uranus and Neptune?
Yeah, and distant Mars
Green channel is always fine. It's the red/blue that suffer
I'll have to try that out sometime
Yeah stuff is popular for a reason of course. Do you remember why you didn't consider PSS after you used it?
Does the big circle have to be concentric to the mirror, or should the center dot and the black dot from my collimation cap be aligned
What you need is: the primary needs to have as close to a perfect black circle around it in the secondary mirror as possible, and when thatās been done the peephole of the collimation cap needs to be perfectly centred in the black centre circle on the primary
https://www.astro-baby.com/astrobaby/help/collimation-guide-newtonian-reflector/ have you looked at this guide?
Ok, I looked at the article, my secondary is aligned, the center dot and the black circle from my collimation cap are aligned but the reflection of the secondary mirror isnāt concentric to the primary
Why @livid sierra
Can you try sending a clearer pic?
If I'm understanding you correctly the secondary isn't centred above the primary when looking through the collimation cap
Yea, it isnāt in the middle
And when I defocus a star the black circle is off center
Ah I see what you mean, the secondary is centred correctly above the primary, but it's not aimed at the focuser/primary correctly
That is what I meant with wanting to have as perfect of a black circle around the primary in the reflection of the secondary
This image demonstrates it well
This is what I mean
Oh, so what screws do I play with to change that?
The three screws on the secondary, might need an allen wrench to adjust those
This is step 3 in Astrobaby's guide
Yeah so that red area has to be a nice circle around the primary (yellow circle)
And yeah it does look like the secondary may not be perfectly centred above the primary either but right now this is more important
Wdym
What do you not understand
Do you mean in the reflection is not centered
Oh
And that too, so right now you need to do this #1019937457095065731 message
What is that?
You can try this to see if the distance from the edge of the tube to the centre of the secondary is equal for each spider vane
Ok
Just checked, itās centered correctly
Great, then move on to centring the reflection
Now that the secondary is centered correctly, I just have to align the center dot with the hole that I see trough, right?
No that's when you are collimating the primary
You first have to collimate the secondary, the reflection of the primary is still not centred in the secondary
#1019937457095065731 message
And by collimating the secondary you mean the part where I get all the clips to be visible, right?
I mean they already are visible, I would focus on getting that black circle around the primary
It is, got it just now
It might help to do this like the guide suggests
Can I see?
.
A bit more up?
There's too much black space on the right and almost none on the left
Yeah that looks more like it
Like this
Yeah
Yea, I donāt know how you guys take such clear photos
PIPP had a nicer UI, had easier to access options, and was easier to batch process stuff
Is that your phones flashlight?
No, I took the images at night when I was out and it was dark so I had to point a light at the front of the scope to make the mirror visible
@livid sierra I understand what was wrong with my collimation now: the secondary was well aligned with the primary but not with the focuser
Looks better now that it's fixed
Glad to hear
Would be good to see a clearer photo but i am going to suggest your secondary is not centered. Does it look like that when looking through the pinhole with your eye? Try not to look at the image in the secondary when centering it in relation to the focuser.
Damo
Someone please give me some good seeing
Yesterday I checked and the seeing was so bad I have never seen anything like it
Incon-see-vable.
But if the seeing was bad, how could you see that it was bad?
I usually get my old 4.5ā just to do a quick check on the seeing
bad seeing ... can't see ...
....

I'll ... ahem. See myself out.
Once i had it so bad that saturn was acting like a wave and for moments there were cuts in saturn xd
How important is an adc for a 10" scope at 0.16"/pixel?
In osc and under good seeing
I'll definitely buy one someday but idk how urgent it is compared to other things I have to purchase
bro saw sa t ur n
Important important
Just get it cuz you'll need it sooner or later
I was thinking the same thing.
I also saw on eBay they basically sell at the new price. So therefore youāre not actually loosing much money. (Me trying to justify the purchase for myself
ā¦.)
average @somber stratus ISS picture
Ok thanks, I'll do that once I have the money
Is this adc good as itās the lowest price but Iām concerned as it doesnāt have a level
You donāt really need a level, especially with a dob
You set the null point where the two levers are parallel
With a Dob you always want the null point to be at the same angle: the same angle as the horizon when looking through the eyepiece
So you donāt need to rotate the adc every few minutes like when using an eq mount
Other than that the adc looks identical to the Omegon adc I think, that one is pretty good but I donāt know much about the Stellalyra one, although I reckon it probably doesnāt matter all that much
Yeah it's the same model as Omegon. I've used both ZWO and Omegon and they are fine
How big of difference does an adc do to the quality as your also in the uk.
big difference
Cool thanks
Of course the difference can be detrimental if you don't have it set properly. I definitely read it and just had to do something to reinforce the read lesson
8 inch dob with 585mc
Back at it again with my shenanigans (same set-up as before)
How is your seeing?
It was surprising really good tonight but usually itās pretty mid, because Iām in southern Ontario near Ottawa
Looks like ther is sum motionblur too, were ur recordings longer than 2-3min?:D
Yeah unfortunately I was worried about not getting good frames as seeing is usually bad so I went on for a while. Do you know anyways to help fight this? I mean the motion blurring
If u got the video, shorten it to 2-3mins
Maybe u can do it in pipp
But idk
U can do dat:D
Do you want me to make a google doc with all of my videos? Just for you to take a stab at it or I can just try and use less videos to make a processed image? Iām willing to do either or, and or both
Just wanted to make sure I replied so then you got pinged in case you had them silenced
Xd
So u got multible vids?
Would be gud for derotation
If u got the time and date on the vid
And sounds good Iāll make a google doc and add it here or should I add it to the #1021002743080558642 and yeah I have 13 videos roughly 10-20 seconds each I would say but itās tough to tell
Iām not sure if I have time and date on the videos unfortunately
Because I donāt have tracking
Do a straight 2-3min recording
