#Planetary Imaging
1 messages · Page 20 of 1
What takes so much space in processing?
For me it didn't help that I was recording to SER files. Regardless of recording in 8 bit vs. 16 bit when you get close to 20K individual frames, each of those frames takes up space ...
This ADC thing is ... ho boy. "Step 1, set ADC levers to zero position. Step 2, set zero position parallel to the horizon, one way makes things worse and the other better, you'll figure it out through experimentation. By the way, Newtonians are more complex to find the horizontal, have fun! Step 3, move the fiddly bits until things look right."
ADC increases focal length. So I won't be using it anytime soon.
I gotta delete my space data some day
Uranus 2 of it moons
Not by a noticeable amount for me. I was worried that I wouldn't be able to use it because of that but nope, just fine.
In my case it would be like 4.5x... My barlow is 3x
So without EQ platform... fak it for now.
Same here. Maybe manual planetary is easier on a dob though?
The guy I chat with said it would be too hard probably.
There's the qualifier, "maybe" 🙂
Oh I forgot you are on EQ.
Not sure which one is easier for tracking at high focal length.
On EQ maybe it's easier if you use the trick with rotating the camera and setting ROI in Firecapture?
No idea we'll see
Speaking as someone who has an EQ5 that is underpowered for its scope ... if/when you get an EQ make sure you get a good EQ mount, one that can handle the load.
Nah I'm not getting EQ mounts.
I might get EQ platform to put under my dobson one day.
And turn my scope to GO-TO maybe.
Same point
But it's a distant future. ::D
Are you still looking for a Venus filter?
I've found this but it's a little bit pricey
https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/baader-u-venus-filter-125.html
Yeah, want to find out what I need so I can put it on my "want" list.
GEEBAZ
Okay, bookmarked
Idk if it's good though. 😄
And I'm going to move outside so I can start secondary bit of my setup
At that price it'd better do its job and make me sausage, egg, and toast for breakfast w/ coffee
Well in this hobby you can pay 20$ for a screw so idk if it's that much. 😄
And if it's useless outside venus
You chat with Damien? 
I mean exchange messages on CN.
Guy knows a lot about planetary.
Who here uses FireCapture?
Am I reading this right? Max exposure is 5ms??
Oh that's weird
Just change the range at the bottom (0.032 - 5.00 ms)
It auto sets a range it thinks you'll use
Based on the target you select
@white prawn
I have a crucial P3 2tb for my desktop pc
got it for $150 probably cheaper now
been using it for all my astro processing
Thank you. Took a second look at it, realized what was going on.
Something tells me this isn't gonna be accurate
30m/s jetstream, 0.33" seeing??
If that pans out I'll be shocked
Your C9.25 first light with poor seeing is as equal as my average result with my 4.5” fair to good seeing
Geebaz. Lucky you guys. I lost a battle w/ my ADC and packed in
@sharp ridge
Now this looks like a sphere
phew
Wait do yall crop or cutout during capture?
yes

Cutout with a slightly lower ROI because slow pc
Did you not get ur adc to work?
You.. you don’t do that?
Idk ive always just cropped to get max fps and and ever so slightly touched the ota with my pinky to correct for the eq platform drift
Lol
It’s not so bad then, but you’ll thank yourself if you start using cutout. Way smaller file sizes so more space for more data and also much faster processing
But you record at 60 fps then right?
I record at exposure limited fps mostly. Or at the highest fps my cam allows. I could record at 200fps if I wanted to
But you would have to crop then right? As I understand with cut out your fps is the same as if you would be recording the whole sensor.
Cutout does nothing to the fps for me
Wait fr?
So yes, I crop to reach max fps possible at a certain exposure
You can record at 200+ with cutout?
Yeah
I think it might even be easier on your laptop to record with cutout, won’t need to write the entire frame to your drive
Just a small portion
K
I see some people with eq mounts crop their roi all the way down to the edges of the planet and tbh I don’t understand that. Just expand the roi a little bit to give the planet some space and use cutout
So you only use cut out or do you also crop the roi?
Yeah, both
Crop to small roi to reach max possible fps, then use cutout
They work in tandem
Best settings for Firecapture with 16gb ram?
No other programs running
And do you lose a lot of fps by recording 16bit?
What are you going to image that you need 16-bit
Stuff. If I won’t lose much fps than why not 16bit?
Just unnecessary, and yeah you sacrifice some fps for it
And won’t make your images more hd than recording in 8-bit
Unless you are trying to image faint stuff, like Uranus’ rings or Mars’ moons for example, you don’t need it
Why does that make you feel bad lol
They just want their bits bro
Nope. I put the ADC on, confirmed it was lined up with the horizon. Pointed scope at Saturn, referred to directions below. Was able to over-expose but could not for love or money find where to set saturation to over-saturate. Tried doing it the old fashioned way. Image only got worse. Then, image lost focus. Could not regain focus. Ended session. Bad time, 0/10.
What's the ADC you use?
And try posting on CN lots of experienced pros in there.
ZWO ADC.
Aren't u supposed to overexpose, not oversaturate?
oh sry you mentioned it at first
Oh, forgot the link.
https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/manuals/ADC QuickGuide.pdf
There’s an ADC tool in FC that overexposes and oversaturates
With the edge tinge option
Lol
Yeah they mention it in that guide
Just adjust the ADC so the red/blue is divided equally along the entire limb of the planet
I could not find that tool.
At all
How do you even do that without tracking. 🤔
Same as with tracking, just move the levers
I mean controlling ADC and laptop while the planets moves out of FOV quickly. 😄
Lol
I recommend enabling the entire sensor, enable autoalign and just try to keep it in frame best you can
But idk how hard it is never used ADC
It is a huge, royal, pain in the arse, not gonna lie. Gotta keep the planet in screen, adjust the focus while the planet is moving (quite fast) through the screen, adjust scope, adjust focus, repeat until focus is good. Then do the same with the ADC levers until AD is gone, but even more fun because the ADC levers have to be moved symmetrically and it's blippin' impossible to check lever distance while at the same time keeping an eye on the image and making a judgment and keeping the planet on screen.
Sounds fun
Morning Venus or midnight Jupiter? Can’t do both bcs class
Venus if you have proper filters.
Yeah I got all that shit. Aight
if grs is out then do jupiter, if not do venus
or anything interesting ie moon transits
one night each
Do you have some app for easily checking/notifying you about transits and stuff
just stellarium, or winjupos
Is there a way you can make Jupiter look bigger in your images?
Bigger scope w/ longer f/l
get it to the right sampling with a barlow and or use drizzle?
Actually your images are amazing already, especially considering it's only 4.5" aperture. #older_system_pics message Maybe try 1.5x drizzle?
Makes me wonder wtf I'm doing wrong
Your images alr crazy good for 4.5"
Show
Make sure that AutoAlign is turned on. Makes your life 100x easier when untracked (and tracked too)
Keeps the planet in one spot in the live view but it's still flying off-screen within a few seconds. I can see how it can be convenient though. Need a bigger monitor
Isn’t it better to do the rotated camera trick? With wide resolution
And let the object fly through fov
Pretty sure that is basically what is done with autoalign, just it zooms onto the planet and keeps it in the center of the picture as it moves across the sensor. There are auto tracking ROI options as well for planetary capture.
So whats the best option in Firecapture for manual tracking?
For planets
https://skyinspector.co.uk/firecapture-features-explainer/#ROI_Position3 Pretty sure it's this, should autocenter the planet within a ROI as long as it's on the sensor ofc.
Siril only lets me drizzle by 2x, I’m thinking that there’s nothing else Improve now
the second one has a little more details but it looks like its a bit overcooked.
Number 1, the top one, it’s less cooked
autostakkert allows you to drizzle by 1.5x pretty sure? Might be some way to resample a 3x or 2x drizzle image as well?
so its better?
I’m working with a MacBook so I can’t really do that 
Yes
As3 works fine on Mac
Scammed for 140gb 
IIRC it's just that windows uses GiB but shows it as GB for some reason
I did
It was very bad beginning of night
Worse than average seeing w c6
Cassini can barely be made out no joke
How in the world do you get those single shots? What kind of scope/equip are you using?
C9.25 and the 462mc with the same old Orion shorty 2x Barlow and Svbony uv ir cut
these shots are at like 60 deg altitude
Aha, so if I had that altitude I'd be getting something similar.
And if my scope had bigger aperture and f/l
this looks wrong
its like distorted
is it just me
I don't see distortions
that one looks fine
yeah hmm 35% stacked there
this one doesnt have it though its good
yeah
hmm...
idk if i like the old deroto better
This second one is 8 minutes
First one is 15
idk why color balance is diff tf
The old derotation (this one) doesnt seem to have the weird fish bowl thing
I did some visual and I think I kinda screwed myself for a very good consistent derotation
The color balance is much better on the old one
the seeing was getting worse from this one and on
Unfortunate
not by a lot, but noticeable
one click curves in astrosurface and a tint adjustment to correct that green crap
maybe i should do everything without that one curve, its a nono
Wow! Love the detail that you’re pulling, amazing work
But now that I glance at Jupiter a lot more, the GRS has really shrunken a lot in 2 years
Really really small compared to 2021
yeah 😦
Possibly, it could be completely gone by 2030
Also very nice disturbance above the GRS, it’s really prominent
You imaging right now?
Eek, was this last nights data?
Yea
If you want some I can give
the one i just sent
i think collimation is good 😄
What does the higher f-ratio do for planetary?
Lower f-ratio is faster scope, allows shorter exposure time (I think) and I also hear that it becomes a bit of a challenge to collimate.
A while back I mentioned wanting a 3m x 3m scope ... the challenge collimating that boi would be more than my challenge last night w/ the ADC
I meant higher…oops
higher means longer exposure required to get same data.
It's why I'm not interested in an 80/1000 Mak. F10 or something, I can't think of any AP use on that one.
Jupiter 2023 looks a lot like Jupiter 2014…just huge a difference in the GRS
Is there difference in grs visible over the years?
Still easily visible but the only thing is I think the size has dropped drastically from reviewing last years…
Left is Damian peaches from 2022 and the right is nicks from yesterday
The one on the left has better resolution but yeah… there is some difference.
The crazy part is, there wasn’t a big difference between a 10 year gap (14-23)
Cc: Damian peach
Ask I updated the images below, these updated too 
Recent Hubble Space Telescope observations confirm that the Great Red Spot (GRS) is now approximately 10,250 miles across, the smallest diameter we've ever measured
Hope you don’t mind using your image as an example nick
Oh but its from 2014
Did you manage to capture iss already?
Yeah a few days ago, my tracking was bad at the start and the only good glimpse of it was when my tracking was bad so I didn’t get to pull much but I did get some modules
And how do you expose for it
I have another opportunity on the 17th I believe, 66°
Are you using FireCapture?
I had seen iss at like 90degree few days ago wish my scope was ready
Yes
And i guess you might need faster exposure time so it’s not blurry or not?
Exactly, you want 0.250 exposure so even if your tracking is bad, the ISS will still glide across the screen fast but in detail, thanks willaf for info
Gain should be around 300-350
Or dimmer
Make sure to focus well
Well need to focus on star right
Or while manual tracking xd
Yeah a star is good, maybe Jupiter if it’s out and the seeing is good enough
And 5400mm is enough?
More then enough! I managed to get good detail with 2700mm, your focal length is the double of mine!
I wonder if playing with rotating the camera makes difference if you use auto align?
I mean it’s a small sensor so I imagine it should
Yeah ISS is massive. Like 60” across.
1200 mm
I would definitely use less focal length. 0.15ms exposure. Gain for underexposed Jupiter
I only have a 3x barlow :/
Does the 3x barlow cell unscrew? Could put it into the nosepiece section of the t-ring to make it more like a 2x. Since you have 5.9um pixels it should be fine.
Your pixels are almost twice as big as lmc's. So 2400mm fl for you is similar to their 1200mm. Honestly I think even without a barlow you'd get something nice, since your scopes fl is 1800mm i think?
Nah it’s 2.9 pixels with 585mc
And without barlow you won’t be able to focus most likely.
Don’t use any Barlow then.
Putting me against Damian peach’s already 😂😂
But yeah so cool to see the grs change and all
ah you got a 585 nice, should be able to focus using it without much problems due to the smaller backfocus compared to a DSLR.
That would be good news.
Dam
what the
resolving jupiter moons now 🙂
i think i have a slight miscollimation
shouldnt have collimated when not thermally acclimated. oh well
Yooooo
ayo does anyone see that black thing fly by diagonally
left side
1hr 20 min of rotation
i was dealing with dust spots so could be that ..
Ah yea I was about to ask if you had any dust motes present

yeah was just gonna say
Yea ion wanna spend money a 462 being hand tracked and all
Yii, Orion XT8
id want a bigger sensor cam untracked but yeah the $
Currently not using anywhere near it's full potential
it sucks being part of both imaging niches
Indeed
Yea I've been seeing 178s on CN
slightly bigger sensor to play with too . check if carlos has sold his if ur interested
his was qhy though
ah yeah u have a 120 rn ?
Basically
A QHY 5L ii
Got the same aptina sensor
not that much different then 533 in size
i just dont want to mess with mono for planetary
Yeahhh forced to use winjupos
Not that u shouldn’t start to use it relatively quickly in the planet imaging scene for better results
I did my second or third planet season
You have a dob?
Rc6 🤮
Ahhh
and i got the not sharp one
Baffle issue?
only thing i can think off is the pri and secondary are incorrectly spaced
Ahh
Oh geez
Ive seen people get dope images out of those rc6's
Someone on this server uses one
Apart from you
atm i wanna get rasa sorted and tehn look at rc 6 later
and sort out SGP goto for full frame RC51 action
could test RC6 next moon to test on a few stars
and the moon to compare
Goto using the ASI air?
skyguider pro modded into goto mount
damn some of these timelapse frames..
Ayo?
tracker made into goto 😄
Yii I have a SGP, but I'm curious as to what that involves lmao
well i started with me motorizing the DEC and then the RA 😄
👀
It can be much much better, so expect some even more banger stuff when the seeing works out
oh yeah 
Anyone have any thoughts on this Barlow?
Need a 3x
They claim it uses ED glass
If they're magnification claims are true then should put my 8" newt at 3600mm f18
id hope thats good id get something like that on a budget
Yeah basically what Nick said. Its kind of a gamble with these lower end barlows, I'd just buy a good one to have peace of mind that it will definitely work well.
So an 8” Skywatcher Dob is my best bet to upgrade my planetary images or is there any better telescope that fits the budget of $700?
If your budget fits, get an X-cel 3x Barlow for $100
there is an explore scientific hybrid truss 10” dob for like $650, unsure if it’s any good tho
haven’t seen anyone use it
I remember they’ve sold it at my local Costco for $600
But it’s a low price for a reason so I didn’t get it 
yeah probably has things very wrong with it
The eyepiece holder thingy was on the right
I have an Explore Scientific 3x, its more than twice as expensive than your apertura/gso one you sent, but its really good, same principal as the powermate iirc. If you don't want to spend as much then get the X-cel 3x as as AverageAstro suggested, its been proven to work many times online.
Check the price of the Apertura/GSO (same brand but different names in some regions) dobs on your website/store your planning to buy from.
Where I'm from, they were cheaper to me than the SW flextubes of the same aperture.
But they are better in almost every way I'd say
It’s roughly the same price
10:1 focuser, diagonal finderscope, primary cooling fan, all included.
10:1 focuser is also a game changer
Also much easier to carry because the ota just lifts right out of the rocker box.
From my research best 2 dobs in Europe are StellaLyra and Bresser 8".
They sell under different names in US I believe.
Skywatcher is crap imo.
What moon is this?
How so?
Rubbish build quality, 1 step focuser, poor eyepieces, no solar filter, no fan etc
Yeah I can see some of those problems, but some aren’t really a problem for me anyway
Why would anyone choose Skywatcher over StellaLyra or Bresser is beyond me
70£ price difference between Skywatcher and StellaLyra. And for that 70£ you get way more
I’ll see what I can do
Skywatcher has good build quality and mirrors afaik, don’t know about Bresser or StellaLyra
Ken said it was Ganymede
It doesn’t. (Don’t known about mirrors)
I own both, build quality of both is decent, I actually prefer the rocker box bearings of Skywatcher to GSO/Stellalyra/Apertura. But I'd say everything else about GSO/Stellalyra/Apertura is better.
Every manufacturer's version in the same price range will likely have identical mirrors.
As far as mirror quality goes. ALL of these scopes come from China. Both have factory machined borosilicate glass mirrors, both are around 94% reflectivity, wouldn't be surprised if they come from the same supplier.
Yeah I wouldn’t focus on that but focuser/mount quality…
accessories etc
Also for people in the US I don't believe stellalyra or bresser is an option, at least without paying import fees.
Apertura
Yii, apertura good.
StellaLyra, Zhumell, Apertura, are all Guan Sheng (GSO) scopes, just sold in different regions of the world. They are identical.
Choose your flavor lol
Isn’t Bresser same as Explore Scientific?
Yeah it is https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/660093-explore-scientific-firstlight-10-dob-first-light-at-tsp/
Explore Scientific FirstLight 10" Dob: First Light at TSP - posted in Reflectors: I am just back from the 2019 Texas Star Party, where my new ESFL 10” dob was my primary scope. Except for a quick test run in Dallas to ensure it was coming to focus, this was first light for this scope. Regarding the build, see: https://www.cloudyni...t-10-dob-b...
Looks like Bresser
Also I think SW and Orion are the only ones who make goto Dobs?
PLANET-ary nebula
No
my image of planets have some deep sky in them 
This ain’t planetary nebula imaging this is planetary imaging
Please help
!!
Idk if stuff is clipping there but yeah blue looks pushed a lot
Ok first question, does the seeing look alright because I have no clue how to judge it
How low was Jupiter here?
Not clipped but yeah it’s even brighter than it looks
Relatively low, like 35 degrees probably, 2x
Ah yeah ur pretty undersampled
tbf i did extend it some
i would kill for that with the 224 fov
yeahhh that sucks i feel ur pain though man.
that looks unbelievably good to me
if u got the uranus youd be pulling in alot more detail. the smaller pixels
ive been considering it but also planetary has been pissing me off and i dont want to get it, not like it, then be stuck with a really expensive guidecam
nah i didnt put it on the card and i clear that folder all the time because it takes up all the space on my laptop
agh
i really thing thats just an issue with the offset though because ive never experienced that before
wait for even better seeing and tweaked colli
im ever so slightly out but wasnt worth messing with as the seeing was improving
but if im undersampled, how tf am i supposed to zoom in more i can barely track as is
that is not the solution im going with lol
but yeah i rly think i experienced more proper sampling when i got the asi 462 with the 2.9 micron pixels
well nowadays u could get the asi 678mc with 2um pixels
slightly larger sensor too
even a used 178 would bring in lots more detail without making it harder to track (2.4 um pixels)
well im not buying anything now because i dont have a good source of money
isn't the fov and how easy it is to fit the planet in frame just determined by the sensors resolution? At proper sampling every pixel size would see the same area of the sky
also this was taken with my exact gear so there has to be something i can do
wtf.. a 2x barlow?
extended 3 inches
sensor size
sampling determines detail
overall resolution is just the relationship between the sensor size and the pixel size
idek how he extended it 3 inches and still reached focus. i cant even extend it 1 inch before the focus is too close
i was thinking of using the 533 and just ditching color since the sensor is so much bigger but i think 20fps would really screw me over
unfortunate 😦
if i can just use the pixels i have now effectively, ill be happy
If you have a sensor of double it's size and pixel size but same resolution as a smaller one, the field of view will be identical if you use the same sampling. bigger sensor would need to get to double the focal length of the smaller one to get that through. Sensor size would only matter if you aren't changing the sampling with a barlow, eg DSO.
How smoothly can you move your mount for hand tracking? You could try making some smooth motion controls for it, or just stick a broom handle to it to act as a lever so you could hand track with a smaller sensor easier. Could probably also make a flipmirror or just have a very well aligned finderscope to get the planet back unto the sensor
it doesnt move all that smoothly but i like the broom handle idea
the issue is that the altitude bearing is very inconvenient to replace, otherwise i would just make my own mount for it
wha? no matter the sampling, the size of the sensor determines how much of the usable image circle is utilized (giving the fov u see)
the other stuff u say does make sense though in regards to needing to double the focal length if u have double the pixel size to sample the same
thatd be amazing
i mean its well within the tolerance
a c11 is actually barely over, the cem25p has a weirdly high weight capacity
geez the idea of that
if i had a c11 i would do it
yeah thatd be fun
i mean its half a pound over, it isnt going to break either of them most likely
is the alt movement actually problematic? I've mostly had issues with the azimuth. Your scope can even balance the tube for the alt
Hmm what do we think about making Jupiter warmer and slightly more saturated
It looks diff on my phone versus pc lol hmm
yeah its weird. its kind of like backlash, i can move it up and down a little bit freely then it gets tighter. so to keep it centered on whatever, i have to push it up then let it go back down
Oh Wtf
hang on c8 actually sells kinda cheap
yeah zane landers is selling one
now youve actually got me wanting one noooo
he sold me my c9.25
some guy selling one for $750 with shipping included wow
if i had the money i would jump on that
wtf..
dang
im telling you those scts sell weirdly cheap
probably because people dont do their research and they buy them for dso then they realize that they fcked up
no way this hasnt been sold
probably nobody lives near them and the shipping costs more than the gdp of several developing nations
nah it shouldn't
also a chance that its just an old dude who forgot to change it, ive seen that occasionally
yeah lol
again i would hop on it if i had the cash
I might stay up to try imaging Jupiter tonight
If I do I’m making someone get on a call with me to figure out what stupid mistake I’m making
yee prob best idea i can try if im still up
What’s the earliest I should reasonably image? Max alt is at like 3 but that’s not happening I have an exam tomorrow
Oh fck me
I was looking at the weather in New York that’s why it went clear so suddenly
It is very cloudy
I’d bet you could probably push to 6000, looks pretty steady. Hope for a break in the seeing
Adc would put me around there right ?
Probably yeah
I’ve had seeing like that before and have pulled some solid images from it.
How do you get such a high zoomed img?
I need a tutorial I swear
Everything I got is a 25mm 20mm eye piece, a dob8" and my phone
What cam?
Neptune-C II
800$^ cam?
4.5” Newtonian reflector
layer of hot air that messes up the seeing. basically makes everything look wobblier. It goes away once the mirror is the same temperature as the air. Should take 30ish minutes to cool down for mediumish size scopes. with my 8" i think the time is closer to an hour
💀
You can just leave the scope outside for a bit once the sun is setting and it will be fine. Or you can use a fan to have it cool down faster.
Uh if you want to use a fan, even outside is fine. It shoudn't be a massive problem unless the temperature inside is much higher than the temperature outside(eg freezing).
Like should I put the fan behind the window from the outside or should I put it in the inside to cool the mirror directly
just leave it outside for an hour before observing and don't worry about it tbh.
if you want to use a fan, put both of them outside. Just increases the air flow which increases how quickly it cools down
Alr after all the mirror has to be as cold as it can right?
Btw how do I collimate it?
I saw people using some kind of lasers but I don't have one lol
Btw the upper mirror has its bolts not at the same level
get or make a collimation cap, just a tiny hole in the middle of the focuser you can look through.
Idk if this is a problem but I never verified it if it's collimated
Put the collimation cap in the focuser, look through it, then adjust the secondary mirror screws(tighten the other two screws if you loosen one) until you can see the mirror clips evenly from the edges of your view. Then you adjust the primary mirror screws so the hole you are looking through appears inside the ring in the middle of the primary.
What kind of collimation cap? What's that?
Ye I would need pics on that lol
can do it by punching a hole through the exact middle of the dust cap on your scope. or 3D print one. Just need a 2-3mm hole directly in the middle of the focuser.
in the end it should look more like this: but the hole you are looking through should be inside the donut/ring on the primary
Thx
same scope!
Yep just rebranded
can yours focus without a barlow?
cuz astribackyard has the sma ebrand and everythig and hes got his focussed without a barlow?
Not mine but found these gems from when space shuttle existed
yeah
thats usually not an issue with astrocams, just dslrs
@vapid depot want to hop in a call at like 10 to get saturn
I’m inside alr lol
Hi all. This is my first time stacking a video of jupiter into a photo with a youtube tutorial and it didnt come out as it should of, any advice?
I bileavr u are using autostakkert in that use manual AP and select one big boundary around jupiter this way the stacking errors reduce
I'm setting my response in a few paragraphs. That way people who know a little bit more and/or can explain better than me can give input. I feel the answer is accurate in information.
Stacking actually starts with acquisition. If you don't get a good acquisition, you don't get a good stack, them's the rules. Make sure that the planet is in focus and you have good seeing (seeing can change in a manner of minutes as @near quiver demonstrated w/ his very recent photos of Jupiter).
While imaging:
No more than 3 minutes per video, as rotation can become apparent (especially in Jupiter) after that time.
If you're using a DSLR, set the exposure time to as many fps as it will allow; this will either be 30 or 60. Adjust the ISO so that you can see the planet, but not too bright.
If you're using a dedicated astro cam, you should be able to set the exposure time in milliseconds. Typically don't go below 5 and don't go above 30. I've found a sweet spot at about 9ms. Adjust your gain from that point.
If you're using a cell phone, I've got nothing. I tried planetary imaging on a cell phone - two, actually - and no dice.
When extracting, extract to tiff.
When stacking:
I've heard a couple schools of thought for stacking. One is to set the alignment points small and throw on as many as you can. The other is to not have more than 20 alignment points.
Personally, I set a size so that there will be about 15 points covering the entire image. Sometimes I have to change the align point size and try a couple of stacks. Once I'm happy with the set, I analyze.
The graph's entire job is to compare the images to each other and sort them in order of best to worst according to the settings, so don't get too excited if the graph all right at the top and don't get too upset/disappointed if it's all at the bottom, either. You can still mess it up ... or bring something out. Choose an amount to stack, stack.
Check the stacked image. If it looks like scotch tape on your image, the align points went wonky. If it comes out with hash marks all over, the align points went wonky. In those cases, you will need to adjust alignment points. More, less, manual placement, all of above, experiment with one solution or another. This is frustrating because it can become a trial and error process. I imaged a crater on the moon once that when I was trying to set align points none of the stacks came out until I set ONE align point. And the only reason that I set that one align point is because I was at that time quite frustrated "over it" with the process so putting just the one alignment point was a snarky statement more than anything else, and it worked.
The good thing about YouTube tutorials is that when well presented there is some good general information. The weak part is that someone may be using some really strong equipment and get a fantastic image even from the get-go because they've been doing it so long, it can lead to disappointment when someone who's brand new to the hobby and has a tiny budget tries to get some results.
The person with a Celstron 70AZ and a DSLR doing imaging for the first time is NOT going to get the same results as the YouTuber with a Celestron Edge14HD using a dedicated astro cam who has been doing this for years.
I'll try thank you
Interesting, I will definetly try this way of approach, thanks.
Tip for alignment points
To avoid artifacts just make sure they don't overlap
Sometimes it's fine if they overlap, in that case if it ain't broke don't fix it
But in my experience, on my images, which is not everyone's experience to be clear.. overlapping APs gives those strange line artifacts
If you get artifacts, manual place the AP and make sure they are close and cover as much as possible without overlap
I've seen the artifact sometimes on my images ... and you're right it's where there's an overlap of AP's. Everything you said is sound ... and a little shorter than what I was saying.
Only complaint I have about that is the changing ISO to change the brightness, usually you change shutter speed for that. I usually put it around the unity ISO that https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/Sensor_Characteristics.htm tells for the camera, as its a balance between readnoise and dynamic range. I think you can go a step higher for planetary or even higher.
https://www.astropix.com/html/equipment/canon_one_to_one_pixel_resolution.html also 1:1 sampling from the sensor is REALLY important for dslr planetary
1:1 Pixel Resolution in Canon DSLRs for Planetary Photography
Fair enough, and I was trying to reference shutter speed and couldn't think of it. Even w/ my shutter speed set max so I got 30 FPS I'd need to adapt the ISO. That's why I phrased as I did. I wasn't aware of that resource though.
I'm actually debating the merits of imaging w/ my DSLR a couple of times just to compare notes now that the scope is properly collimated.
Could be interesting to compare what you can get with the same conditions, only problem is getting the planets to be the same size with both cameras, for a reasonable comparison.
Most any comparison would do for me, tbh. But 5x Barlow on the DSLR vs. 3x Barlow on the ASI585 ... might be reasonable enough.
heres a kind of stupid question
which would be more helpful to me, getting a 3x barlow for my 8" dob or getting a c8 because im considering both
probably option 3 which is just buy a damn uranus c already
I'd go for the 3x. I just spent $100 on a Celestron X-Cel 3x on Agena Astro. Best part is, you can use it on the C8 I'm sure if you get the C8 later.
You'd need a barlow for planets anyway even with the C8 unless you have a tiny pixel camera
fair
i mean when i get a job again eventually ill get all 3 anyway
man 585 + c8 would be amazing actually
plus it would have some limited applications for deep sky with the reducer and 533
3x on an 8" dob can do some serious stuff anyway
Oh shoot lol
true
what do you mean not overlapping?
The points
hmm
Usually causes the line artifacts
the line artifacts are caused by half out of frame images
always make sure to overlap aps
not from what ive seen at least
im not doubting you. but sharing my own experience
AutoStakkert! Tips from Emil Kraaikamp
It is best to stack only the frames with good quality. Don't stack a lot of frames just to have a large stack. A stack with a smaller number of frames will be more noisy however. This gets back to the quality of the seeing. If you don't have decent seeing for at least some moments while recording, you are not going to get very good results, no matter how many or how few frames you stack.
For some objects, you will get better results by manually setting multiple alignments points.
Add a bit of overlap to manually placed alignment points.
Keep alignment points away from the edge of a planet.
Alignment Point Size - Smaller alignment points are generally less stable than big ones. It is easy to lose track on a small part of an image, especially if it is very noisy or a dim feature, and if the seeing is poor. But potentially, smaller alignment points can track finer movements and provide better quality. That is an important trade-off here. It is actually possible to mix multiple alignment point sizes. If for example there is a small moon in front of Jupiter, add a small alignment point around it (and the shadow), and you'll see the stacking improves quite a bit around the moon and shadow.
For large planets like Jupiter and Saturn, with good detail in them and a large image scale, use around 30 alignment points with a size of about 75 to 125. This one is a bit tricky, as the size of the alignment points depends a lot on the imaging scale.
For smaller details, such as the polar cap on Mars, or moon shadows on Jupiter, use extra alignment points with smaller sizes for those features, in addition to the existing alignment points with normal sizes.
When planets are small, such as with Uranus or Neptune, use a single alignment point with a large area around the entire planet.
For the Sun, always use the gradient quality estimator. Solar images that are correctly exposed usually have little noise. If the seeing is good and the detail is fine, use a smaller value of 2 for Noise Robust under the Quality Estimator.
For images that have small fine detail, use smaller alignment points.
For Saturn, use manual alignment point placement. Diagonal lines on the rings are not good places for alignment points. Place the alignment point on the rings to include a perpendicular feature like the edge of the planet, or the black space at the tips of the rings.
Good alignment points can track a feature in two perpendicular directions. This is why alignment points placed near the limb of a planet don't work so well.
For small bright objects like Venus and Mars, the edge quality estimator may work better than the gradient quality estimator.
If you have problems with seams in the stacked image that are caused by poor transparency, use Forced Global Quality under the Quality Estimator panel. If the seams are caused by the alignment points being too small, use larger alignment points and re-stack the image.
Is there a link to that info so I can bookmark?
https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/562976-autostakkert-alignment-points-question/
idk i was just going through cloudy nights
Autostakkert alignment points question - posted in Major & Minor Planetary Imaging: Quick question: In Autostakkert, do you place alignment points at edges of planetary features or inside of features? For example, would you set alignment points to ring the Jupiter GRS or put an alignment point in the center? Thanks. - Tom
found a good one
@sharp ridge thank you for both of those items
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIjXmRh1DE0
and if you really have time you can watch a 2 hour tutorial
You dont want to miss out on this as we dive into AutoStakkert with Emil Kraaikamp, the maker of the famous stacking program that we all love!

I would like to think that I'm not so lacking that I necessarily need the tutorial 😳
true tbh you should rather watch the three part tutorial series by christopher go
best tips fr
Yeah, hours-long is a little much. Even when I tried to process a DSO and found Nebulaphotos tutorial I skipped to what I needed to follow along. And the Saturn image that I needed to know how to combine 2 photos so I could get the moons in ... again, skipped to the point. So something that covers things in a brief period of time is good.
Thanks Tiktok
@somber stratus just wondering, can u send some maps of Jupiter, mainly one in CH4 and one regular one
Preferably during the same night
Haven't done any maps of Jupiter, but there are loads on the Alpo Japan website, daily
Send link
google “alpo japan”
Currrently I have a 4.5" Newt, would I get 2x the results with an 8" Skywatcher dob?
its 2700mm, skywatcher would have 3600mm
“2x” is not really something you can measure in terms of image quality
But yeah it will be much better
Like @ruby tartan used an 8” I think and got some nice stuff
If anyone is out imaging Saturn right now, you may be able to capture this ring spoke
Judging by the orbital period seen in this image series
And by the orbital period of Saturn's B ring (approx ~10hrs at the outer edge)
I got these clouds that look go very fast but the actual cloud train that’s running through my area is just going slow
Did you see the images I shared earlier? Forecasted seeing was 1/5
I should say, "screenshots" actually. But yea, screenshotted the observatory forecasts. Confirmed w/ eyeballs. I don't think Jupiter should have points when viewed by naked eye. And I'm sure that stars shouldn't have fuzz around them, either.
Not sure what I'm more upset at right now though. Bad seeing keeping me in, my equipment can't get the detail that I want it to get, or the fact that my skills aren't up to par
No. Bird Jones are the antithesis of telescopes, cannot be focused.
Their use of a spherical mirror prohibits collimation and proper focusing.
You can see what with the naked eye?!
my astrobin
It's a design flaw, you'd have to get a scope that isn't a bird-jones
Through the telescope is what I assume you meant?
5" bird jones...
Its a powerseeker isn't it?
They can be focused, but have a great number of... questionable design choices which makes them physically and mentally painful to use
Easier to say that they can't. 🙂
finally done cooking 🙂

Is it just me or did the southern cloud band get bigger?
i think it did
Holy Shi
Can you explain how to do such animation?
you can generate a map using winjupos and then use that map to generate the animation
Understood 0 but thanks. 🙏
Never used it though.
winjupos has a tool to generate maps like this one
you can then import that map in the ephemerides tool and save the animation
Eh
Diff between 9.25 and 6”
somewhere in the middle obviously more like the 9.25” will be possible
What fl is the 6”
I might be able to pull a little bit more than the 6”, probably also with the same size as the 6” since the fl I will be zooming at is 3400mm
But the 6” jup size looks nice compared to my 4.5”
With the 685nm IR pass filter, you get sharpness at a cost of resolution right?
And what is it mostly used for for planetary?
The cost in resolution (in regards to wavelength reasons) is negligible
It’s used for bad seeing
The longer wavelengths literally don’t collide as much w atmospheric molecules to scatter
Kens results rgb vs ir 685 in bad seeing
It’s really for bigger apertures though . I’d benefit from it
Reprocessed my old data
Also more PLANET-ary nebula images (dont forget, there might be planets inside it so it counts)
What settings do I use for Uranus
Oh dear lord I'll never stop the 6th grade instinct to make a joke with that planet.
I’m capturing Uranus right now
Otherwise, wish I knew? I know that I upped the gain on my camera to find it, and since I ran out of space I don't have the file telling me what the settings were
Thanks 
I'm curious about my Jupiter image and want to have a Jupiter expert check it. Basically "I see a couple of spots, are they interesting?"
Send the pic?
this stuff? @white prawn
That .. and this
Ah just some smaller storms scattered about
But idk about the other thing u pointed out tbh
Just some equatorial band disturbance
How's this? 🙂
You need to fix the background a bit where you masked stuff
So that both backgrounds are the same colour
Let's be fair. That image is from @fading plume last night and I asked if he would mind if I did a little denoise b/c what he shared had a bit more noise b/c he didn't want to ruin Enke. Enke is still there All I did was denoise
I say all that to give credit to the person who did all the work and all I did was remove a bit of noise.
that's all good lol
I can just see the mask behind so wanted to let (both of) you know
I usually have a good eye for detail so I'm surprised that I didn't.
ina 🤔
Interesting. Maybe my denoise strength was weird. Nicely done
That’s weird. On both my calibrated monitors on maximum brightness I can’t see anything other than the slight blue area bottom left.
Thank you. I took care, didn't want to destroy it.
I’ll reprocess when I get home
In a dark room too
How much frames should I usually get for Uranus and Neptune?
Same as anything else planetary. "As many as possible in the amount of time that you have in order to not see rotation while still preserving visibility and ability to capture surface information."
@white prawn gave it a reprocess with more noise reduction and masked out some more stacking artefacts.
Lost a bit of sharpness. Let me try and get that back.
not a huge sucess.
Wow very nice job that 14” is really a great fella
Yes it’s there and it’s rlly good
wow one of the smoothest timelapse i seen
Don’t think it’s a Timelapse, just the map he made with winjupos projected onto a globe and then simulated rotation
Should I get the 8” collapsible dobsonian or is there no other difference from the skywatcher classic 8” other then portability? I know that the specs and optics are the same
The question to ask is how much do you think that you'll lug it around?
I won’t really travel with it I don’t think…but I know for some reasons I might, but I do have to carry everything down stairs
Even for running downstairs the collapsible has its advantages.
What even
Do you get more detail when you have a bigger aperture since you're collecting more light or does that depend on the focal length? Or maybe both?
The size of the smallest detail you can see is determined by the aperture of the scope, due to diffraction(aka physics: light is kinda a wave that interferes with itself). Relationship is linear so doubling the diameter of the mirror means you could see details twice as small. You do need to have it so the camera is at a certain fl to actually be able to capture that detail through.
http://www.rocketmime.com/astronomy/Telescope/ResolvingPower.html This is more talking about splitting double stars, as details on non pointlike objects are a bit more complicated.
Formulas you can use to figure out how your
telescope will perform, how best to use it and how to compare telescopes.
Thanks for the info 
In collapsible the trusses are the weak point.
this jupiter dataset is available in share your data if anyone wants to give it a go . does need derotating though
What was the altitude lol
15 degrees. Jupiter at 60 degrees had the GRS appear in only 5% of frames
cursed
Has anyone used a dslr Nikon. I keep getting weird effects on my video and live view. Jupiter will be in perfect focus and then it will just be blown out white. I can’t figure it out
@vapid depot double eclipse tomorrow if you wanna view it
Maybe like midnight for you 10/20 or something but it’s 10/19 for me
Oh, sometimes when you reenter live view it will automatically set the exposure to 1/60, try changing it to like 1/240
By default it does ISO priority, but I think it’s changeable. Poke around in the shooting settings and see if anything shows up for video
Damn am clouded tho
same
Duster is awesome
Gahymede
What size aperture do I need to get an image that size please?
The image is terrible, but I'm using a GSO 12"
That's with a GSO 8" last year
That pre-processed so far definitely looks better than any of my pre-processed, and better than some of my processed. What's GSO?
GSO is a company
Newtonians
Guan Sheng Optical i believe
It's not that bad. Pretty average for a 12", no?
I wouldn't expect Encke gap in the single stacks if you were looking for that
Both are decent. Choice is yours as to whether you want a harder time hand-tracking but potentially more resolution with the 12", and vica versa with the GoTo 8
Can't make that decision for you.
Hey Lucca, how do you do your APs for the moons? I'm autoplacing size 56 APs on the planet, then manually dropping one AP on each moon, but they end up being a bit streaky in one direction.
god thats pretty damn bad
What am I missing? Why is this so bad? Single shot, live view, not processed? Looks better than some of my best processed stuff with GOOD data. WTH.
It's not a single frame it's a stack
Maybe derotated even but it's not a single frame
Has it been processed at all other than stacked?
Yeah, sharpened
That can't be right. My stacks look worse than that.
What do you mean
its a stacked 12" dob shot from brazil
it should be much better
Just stacked?
And sharpened
Just stacked should be better?
nah
Then my efforts are hopless and I should sell my stuff.
It's a sharpened stack, how should just stacked be better
I must have misunderstood what was being said about the image should be better.
But still looks better than some of my best stuff from the 8"
Which is pretty disappointing for me
You keep comparing your 8" to images from way larger scopes
I figure I should be able to get the same quality, just smaller
Prob lose smaller detail
To get exactly the same quality is pretty damn hard. Need perfect seeing for that. And I think you mentioned a few times that you shoot at low altitudes because the planets rise too late for you
You're giving your own scope a pretty unfair disadvantage and a bad time for comparing it to larger scopes all the time lol
I give her credit for punching above her class sometimes when I'm doing things right
southern hemisphere is cheating for saturn right now, they would have it at around 60 degrees alt I assume, compared to yours 30ish. Not that far from double the atmosphere to look through.
Also a big part of planetary ap is just waiting for clear skies and good seeing conditions. And that sucks. My last time even shooting at all was almost 3 weeks ago. I had perfect seeing for one week in September. But 80-90% of the time my seeing is mediocre-average..
Altitude isn't everything. If you're patient enough, conditions come to you, speaking from experience from 51°N. The hard part is not giving up with it.
And it's easy to think everyone's images are perfect because you have your mind completely set on that.
Everyone meaning the people you compare your images to
I have too many nights where it's complete mush. I just never post the images
"hard part is not giving up." Refer to my comment regarding "hopless" and "should sell everything"
In other words, you're right
I just feel like there were times that I got some really good images from my DSLR before the scope was properly collimated because I got a couple of really good nights and all it's been since I got the better camera is struggle bus
This was IR Mars at 50°, this time last year. Abysmal conditions.
for example
No point even posting.
Yeah, this is valid.
?
Hard to tell with the seeing though. Question is "did you get lucky with the seeing, or was it the equipment?".
Always impossible to answer
without two scopes on the same night
Decent equip ... and def lucky w/ the seeing
Which isn't to blame the 585, but I'm bumming on the seeing.
I'm already seeing better w/ collimation compared to not really well collimated
Thing is we're entering winter so the Jet stream is back in full force.
Doubt you'll get exceptional seeing for months
The one night I had good seeing I didn't get the settings right because I didn't accommodate for what was going on (bit hazy b/c of calm)
what you dont see vs what gets posted
And so far all I can manage is this ... on a decent night.
For an 8 inch scope that is not far off from ideal in terms of detail.
All I need is learning to use ADC and better seeing then?
color callibration in registax 🤓👆
thats the unprocessed one he knows how to do it lol
what is this left shot lmao
some weird low atmospheric turbulence seeing
Jupiter's moon? I use 1 alignment point
Gotcha. Think I need to lower the time of each stack since the moons are streaking a bit
I did that and got no moon.
First time I've ever seen Jupiter. It has been coming up so late that I have never seen this beautiful giant before. And to see the moons around it was absolutely surreal. Definetly not the best capture out there but will always remain a personal favourite
venus elongation is in 2 days
💀
Do the L
geez man
BRUH
F
114*
Have you checked for astigmatism @ruby tartan?
Yes
I would look into doing a Ronchi or knife’s edge test to see how the primary mirror looks.
Oh yeah, way better festoons
What barlow did you get and what barlow were you using previously?
The left storm beside the GRS has faded a lot
There’s not a lot of brightness coming out of it
I don’t know what the old one was, the new one is an astromania 3x
some generic 2x one I assume?
@dark cargo it's safe to say that @near quiver's Astromania 3x is more "off the shelf" than Astrobiscuit's C14
Lol
well I'd rather grab a barlow than a C14 from any shelf......
I mean, I wouldn't mind having the aperture ... or bigger, even; I'm a little upset with what I'm getting out of my 8" b/c I want something that's more similar to (if smaller than) what folks are getting out of a C14 or 16" scope. But to have that aperture, you bet your money that I'll have an observatory setup formally in my backyard because there is NO way I'd lug that thing out to observe like what I do now w/ my 8".
And to clarify, I'm actually happy w/ "Rio" ... I still say that she's capable of punching a little above her class and I just have to learn how to work with her again (since the 585 purchase) And I'm a little frustrated/disappointed with/in myself since I got the 585 in March and am still learning it.
mickey mouse on top of grs what
lol XD
https://skyandtelescope.org/get-involved/pro-am-collaboration/how-to-measure-jupiters-deflection-of-starlight/ reminder of this coming up
oh man people have been planning this for some time lol
" amateur astronomers are encouraged to test their equipment, using the same target stars, as early as the summer of 2022."
and a contact email after that
guys how can I know when the GRS is visible???
I have skysafari 7 pro and it tells you when the GRS is visible...but from my last experience it's not accurate
actually
it was really off
I didn't see the GRS that night
and I'm sure it was the time skysafari said
is there a similar feature with stellarium ??
that is more accurate??
Stellarium but usually sky safari is accurate for me
Sometimes minutes off but that’s it
Check ur coordinates
I used slay safari for some time , but recently started using stellarium for planet info
Use the web app lol
ok I'll give a try to slay safari again...
yeah the web app is superb
Lmao slay safari geez idk how I didn’t see that 😂😂
SkyGuide is super accurate for me
reprocess. a little softer
With ADC. This looks so promising 🙄
Have you tried only using 5% in the first percentage to stack box? Correct me if I’m wrong but I think your numbers are the wrong way around. I have my last 3 boxes blank.
The way I read it is you have a lot of frames contributing to your stack that are low quality
That's only after analysis, before any stacking is done. The percentages are leftovers from a previous session.
Yeah, they were all low quality. Couldn't be helped. 😦
Nah you can make the rest of the boxes blank and only use the first
This just produces 4 different stacks with different %s
They're all separate
I use that method a lot epsilon, very useful to determine the right percentage in fluctuating seeing
Interesting I never realised that
damn...
I guess you should turn on double stack reference...it aligned the image better for me so it had smoother edges
idk if it works for you...
I used it for a video of the moon I had taken with my smartphone
before the double stack reference the edges looked really weird
but after that...it was superb
it was like some kind of ghosting
or bad alignment
What source do you guys use to check seeing?
Your eyes. http://www.damianpeach.com/seeingscale.htm
No forecast is accurate for seeing
by that scale the best ive ever seen is poor lmao
oh wow i had excellent
my first light was like fair to good
but started out very poor
since it got lost somewhere else lol
i hope this isnt super rare from now on.. oof
first light i consider this fair after damian peach's web page
dude i had this girl over and i almost sent her home because i looked at saturn and the seeing looked so good, i almost sent her home like "sorry i have to image"
LOL
“I’m sorry babe, the atmosphere is calm today. Rain check?”
"sorry babe, i can see the cassini division, hows friday?"
haha
too funny
i kind of regret it because it didnt go well, and i know imaging would have gone great
Lesson learned. AP>Girls
Common sense 
I IMAGE SUN
I showed my gf daytime Venus thru the scope on one of our first dates lmao

indeed
Anyways so I have a ISS Sun transit tomorrow, what settings do I use…gonna use my DSLR this time
Everyone knows Saturn is the more romantic target.
poor form
everyone knows that the moon is #1 tho
Showed ma gf Venus and the moon she wasn't interested she's gone now
Rule #1 date when saturn is 2-3 months after oppositions
Her loss :)
its bold because it either works really well or not at all
I’ve never showed my GF a planet because I’ve never had a GF.

He’s just like me
I am a man of the (single) people.
ADC means no RGB align needed, yes?
Same 
wont hurt to run it
Encke?
really not sure can u post full
Trying to save it but
i dont think so from this lol
"only 17" of aperture"
idk if thats full of crap or what id hope not
😐 😕 ☹️
?
mm big zoom
Good detail
Venus is the planet of love though
But yeah Saturn might be more romantic
This reminds me of a talk at Texas Star Party in May where the speaker was talking about visually spotting targets within targets (like bright h-alpha regions in galaxies and whatnot). Some of them needed “only” 25” of aperture under a dark sky to see.
I think it was live-streamed.
B4 I imaged with da C11 @ F/33

